The Valley of the Rocks (Devil's Cheesewring)

Climbs 20 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude 176m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Easy to get to, featured in Lorna Doone, offering routes up to 105ft. Notables include Icarus (HS 4a). Should offer an entertaining half-day. Also includes the Devil's Cheeswring, an isolated pinnacle, about 45ft high on its valley side. The descent route is the short SE arete. Online guide (still functions 9/2008) http://www.exmoor92.fsnet.co.uk/Exmoor%20Coast%20Climbing/

Access notes
Well signposted from Lynton. Car park free in December (not best for climbing though).

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), North Devon and Cornwall (2000),
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 CASTLE ROCK  
2Crack of NoonHVS 5a 17
3HeiferE3 5c  
4PudgeE1 5b 1
5South-West AscentD 14
6Central Crack Left Hand (Castle Rock South Face)VD 10
7Central Crack ( Castle rock, south face)S 4a *21
 DEVIL'S CHEESEWRING  
9South East AreteD 15
10BarcelonaVS 4b 3
11Crack of DooneHS 4b 18
124000 Meter PursuitHS 4b 6
13Olympic WallHVS 4c *7
14Fingers and ThumbsHS 4b **7
15RambleS 2
 OTHER BUTTRESSES  
17ErosS 4a 5
18IcarusHS 4a *11
19Direct Line Finish (Icarus)HVS 5a 2
20Mystic SpiralHVS 5a/b 3
21PrometheusHVS 5a 3
22Bring Out The GimpVD 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Really nice crag for a day trip. There are many routes that are clean now so you can pick the best ones. Often tourists about at the weekend (not at Devil's cheesewring though) but rarely other climbers.
col3 - 21/Apr/12
Not bad really. The climbs arent 'clean' (lots of vegetation). Devil's cheeswring is prob best bet (finger of rock at the west end of the valley).
otziiceman - 22/Feb/07