Climbs 20
Rocktype Culm
Altitude 176m a.s.l
Faces S

Castle Rock, Valley of the Rocks © Nicole and Paul

Crag features

Easy to get to, featured in Lorna Doone, offering routes up to 105ft. Notables include Icarus (HS 4a). Should offer an entertaining half-day. Also includes the Devil's Cheeswring, an isolated pinnacle, about 45ft high on its valley side. The descent route is the short SE arete. Online guide (still functions 9/2008) http://www.exmoor92.fsnet.co.uk/Exmoor%20Coast%20Climbing/

Approach notes

Well signposted from Lynton. Car park free in December (not best for climbing though).

Online guide at fsnet.co.uk no longer works.
useful - 28/Aug/15
Really nice crag for a day trip. There are many routes that are clean now so you can pick the best ones. Often tourists about at the weekend (not at Devil's cheesewring though) but rarely other climbers.
col3 - 21/Apr/12
Not bad really. The climbs arent 'clean' (lots of vegetation). Devil's cheeswring is prob best bet (finger of rock at the west end of the valley).
otziiceman - 22/Feb/07
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Climbs at this crag

 Devil's Cheesewring 
9South East AreteD 17
10BarcelonaVS 4b 3
11Crack of DooneHS 4b 26
124000 Meter PursuitHS 4b 7
13Olympic WallHVS 4c *8
14Fingers and ThumbsHS 4b **7
15RambleS 3
 Other buttresses 
17ErosS 4a 5
18IcarusHS 4a *15
19Direct Line Finish (Icarus)HVS 5a 3
20Mystic SpiralHVS 5a/b 3
21Prometheus
-
HVS 5a 3
22Bring Out The GimpVD 4

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