Climbs 78
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 871m a.s.l
Faces E

Ed Brown just failing on the last crucial move of Entonox E6 (6c) Scafell East Buttress © robmatheson

Crag features

Great climbing on a high mountain crag, including some of the best routes in the Lake District. Super-classics include Mickledore Grooves (VS), Centaur (HVS), Yellow Slab (HVS), Hells Groove (E1), Lord of the Rings (E2), Ichabod (E2), Roaring Silence (E3), Lost Horizons (E4), Shere Khan (E5), Borderline (E7), Talbot Horizon (E9) and Welcome to the Cruel Word (E9). Other excellent routes are Phoenix (E1), Overhanging Grooves Direct (E2), Chiron (E3), Dyad (E3), Midnight Express (E3), Equinox (E4), Cullinan (E5), The Almighty (E5) and Zeya (E5). Sunny in the morning, though it can seep badly in some areas.

Approach notes

Best approached from Wasdale to Mickledore in about one and a half hours.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1The Lord of the RingsE2 5c ***19
2East Buttress Girdle
-
HVS 5a * 
3Slime Chimney
-
VD  
4South Chimney
-
HVS 5a, 4c  
5The Gremlin's Groove
-
VS 4c 2
6Holy Ghost
-
E2 5c 4
7TalismanE3 5c *4
8TrinityHVS 5b **20
9Thy Will Be DoneE8 6c **1
10IncubusE5 6b *2
11Bat out of Hell
-
E2 5c ** 
12Hell's Groove
-
E1 5b ***39
13Hell's Bells
-
E4 6a * 
14The Almighty
-
E5 6b **1
15Lucius
-
E5 6b **1
16Chimera
-
E1 5b *3
17Pegasus
-
HVS 5b *2
18Zeus
-
E3 5c **5
19Morning Wall
-
VS 4c 2
20PhoenixE2 5c **26
21The Arete Finish
-
E2 5c 2
22Phoenix - Ash Groove FinishE3 5c 1
23Barad-durE6 6b *** 
24Mythical Kings
-
E4 6a *1
25Ichabod
-
E2 5c ***124
26Roaring Silence
-
E3 5c ***25
27Borderline
-
E7 6c *** 
28Forbidden Colours
-
E4 6a *3
29Overhanging Grooves Direct
-
E3 5c **6
30Caradhras
-
E5 6b *1
31Gold Rush
-
E1 5b *2
32Cerebus
-
E3 5c *1
33Chiron
-
E3 5c ***8
34The Yellow Slab
-
HVS 4c ***53
35Great Eastern Route
-
VS 4c ***88
36The Centaur
-
HVS 5a ***66
37Equinox
-
E4 6a **7
38Lost Horizons
-
E4 6b ***29
39Cullinan
-
E5 6a **3
40Shere Khan
-
E5 6a ***27
41Zeya
-
E5 6b ** 
42The Seige Perilous
-
E7 6b ** 
43Shikasta
-
E4 6a *1
44Armageddon
-
E2 5c *1
45Moonday
-
E2 5c *2
46Minotaur
-
E1 5b *6
47Overhanging Wall
-
HVS 5a *2
48Entonox
-
E6 6c ** 
49S.O.S.
-
E5 6b6b *1
50May Day ClimbHVS 5b, 4b 5
51May Day Direct
-
E2 5b, 4b *6
52DyadE3 6a **17
53Edge of EriadorE4 5c **8
54Juno
-
E4 6a 1
55The Ambleside Brother's Climb
-
E5 6a *1
56Leverage
-
E1 5b ***47
57Mickledore Grooves
-
VS 4c ***142
58Barry's TraverseHVS 5a **2
59The Fulcrum
-
VS 4c **27
60Fulcrum DirectE1 5c 1
61Mickledore Arete
-
HVS 5a * 
62Aquavit
-
E4 6b  
63Midnight Express
-
E3 6a **11
64ChartreuseE1 5b **38
65StriderE1 5b 2
66Pernod
-
VS 5a *6
67Broad Stand
-
D 112
68When The Fat Lady Sings
-
E2 5b5c 1
 Winter Lines 
70Mickledore ChimneyIII 8
71Tia MariaV 6  
72MinotaurVI 5 *** 
73Variation FinishIV  
74Slime ChimneyIV 4  
75May Day DirectVI 6  
76Overhanging Wall-Original FinishIV 5  
77Variation StartIII  
78Overhanging WallV 6  
79White SlabIII 3  

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