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These details were last updated on 24/May/2010

Scafell East Buttress

Cumbria, ENGLAND

Climbs 72 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 871m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Great climbing on a high mountain crag, including some of the best routes in the Lake District. Super-classics include Mickledore Grooves (VS), Centaur (HVS), Yellow Slab (HVS), Hells Groove (E1), Lord of the Rings (E2), Ichabod (E2), Roaring Silence (E3), Lost Horizons (E4), Shere Khan (E5), Borderline (E7), Talbot Horizon (E9) and Welcome to the Cruel Word (E9). Other excellent routes are Phoenix (E1), Overhanging Grooves Direct (E2), Chiron (E3), Dyad (E3), Midnight Express (E3), Equinox (E4), Cullinan (E5), The Almighty (E5) and Zeya (E5). Sunny in the morning, though it can seep badly in some areas.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Lake District – Met Office: Lake District

Guidebooks
Scafell Wasdale & Eskdale (1996),
Out of print: Scafell, Dow & Eskdale (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1The Lord of the RingsE2 5c ***9
2East Buttress GirdleHVS 5a * 
3Slime ChimneyVD  
4South ChimneyHVS 5a, 4c  
5The Gremlin's GrooveVS 4c  
6Variation StartIII  
7Holy GhostE2 5c  
8Tia MariaV 6  
9TalismanE3 5c *1
10Overhanging WallV 6  
11TrinityHVS 5b **13
12MinotaurVI 5 *** 
13IncubusE5 6b * 
14May Day DirectVI 6  
15Bat out of HellE1 5b * 
16White SlabIII 3  
17Hell's GrooveE1 5b ***16
18Overhanging Wall-Original FinishIV 5  
19Hell's BellsE4 6a * 
20Slime ChimneyIV 4  
21The AlmightyE5 6b ** 
22LuciusE5 6b ** 
23ChimeraE1 5b *2
24PegasusHVS 5b * 
25ZeusE3 5c **2
26Morning WallVS 4c 1
27PhoenixE2 5c **17
28Mythical KingsE4 6a * 
29IchabodE2 5c ***67
30Roaring SilenceE3 5c ***15
31BorderlineE7 6c *** 
32Forbidden ColoursE4 6a *2
33Overhanging Grooves DirectE3 5c **2
34CaradhrasE5 6b *1
35Gold RushE1 5b * 
36CerebusE3 5c * 
 Climb nameGradex
37ChironE3 5c ***4
38The Yellow SlabHVS 4c ***29
39Great Eastern RouteVS 4c ***33
40The CentaurHVS 5a ***41
41EquinoxE4 6a **3
42Lost HorizonsE4 6b ***17
43CullinanE5 6a **2
44Shere KhanE5 6a ***16
45ZeyaE5 6b ** 
46The Seige PerilousE7 6b ** 
47ShikastaE4 6a *1
48ArmageddonE2 5c * 
49MoondayE2 5c * 
50MinotaurE1 5b *1
51Overhanging WallHVS 5a * 
52EntonoxE6 6c ** 
53May Day ClimbHVS 5b, 4b 2
54May Day DirectE2 5b, 4b *4
55DyadE3 6a **10
56JunoE4 6a  
57The Ambleside Brother's ClimbE5 6a *1
58LeverageE1 5b **24
59Mickledore GroovesVS 4c ***95
60Barry's TraverseHVS 5a **2
61The FulcrumVS 4c **12
62Mickledore AreteHVS 5a * 
63AquavitE4 6b  
64Midnight ExpressE3 6a **7
65ChartreuseE1 5b **23
66StriderE1 5b  
67PernodVS 5a *4
68Mickledore ChimneyIII 6
69Variation FinishIV  
70Broad StandD 69
71Edge of EriadorE4 ***5
72The Arete FinishE2 5c 1
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Access notes
Best approached from Wasdale to Mickledore in about one and a half hours.

Classifieds
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