Scafell East Buttress

Climbs 78 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 871m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Great climbing on a high mountain crag, including some of the best routes in the Lake District. Super-classics include Mickledore Grooves (VS), Centaur (HVS), Yellow Slab (HVS), Hells Groove (E1), Lord of the Rings (E2), Ichabod (E2), Roaring Silence (E3), Lost Horizons (E4), Shere Khan (E5), Borderline (E7), Talbot Horizon (E9) and Welcome to the Cruel Word (E9). Other excellent routes are Phoenix (E1), Overhanging Grooves Direct (E2), Chiron (E3), Dyad (E3), Midnight Express (E3), Equinox (E4), Cullinan (E5), The Almighty (E5) and Zeya (E5). Sunny in the morning, though it can seep badly in some areas.

Access notes
Best approached from Wasdale to Mickledore in about one and a half hours.

Guidebooks
Scafell Wasdale & Eskdale (1996),
Out of print: Scafell, Dow & Eskdale (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1The Lord of the RingsE2 5c ***
2East Buttress GirdleHVS 5a *
3Slime ChimneyVD
4South ChimneyHVS 5a, 4c
5The Gremlin's GrooveVS 4c
6Holy GhostE2 5c
7TalismanE3 5c *
8TrinityHVS 5b **
9Thy Will Be DoneE8 6c **
10IncubusE5 6b *
11Bat out of HellE2 5c **
12Hell's GrooveE1 5b ***
13Hell's BellsE4 6a *
14The AlmightyE5 6b **
15LuciusE5 6b **
16ChimeraE1 5b *
17PegasusHVS 5b *
18ZeusE3 5c **
19Morning WallVS 4c
20PhoenixE2 5c **
21The Arete FinishE2 5c
22Phoenix - Ash Groove FinishE3 5c
23Barad-durE6 6b ***
24Mythical KingsE4 6a *
25IchabodE2 5c ***
26Roaring SilenceE3 5c ***
27BorderlineE7 6c ***
28Forbidden ColoursE4 6a *
29Overhanging Grooves DirectE3 5c **
30CaradhrasE5 6b *
31Gold RushE1 5b *
32CerebusE3 5c *
33ChironE3 5c ***
34The Yellow SlabHVS 4c ***
35Great Eastern RouteVS 4c ***
36The CentaurHVS 5a ***
37EquinoxE4 6a **
38Lost HorizonsE4 6b ***
39CullinanE5 6a **
40Shere KhanE5 6a ***
41ZeyaE5 6b **
42The Seige PerilousE7 6b **
43ShikastaE4 6a *
44ArmageddonE2 5c *
45MoondayE2 5c *
46MinotaurE1 5b *
47Overhanging WallHVS 5a *
48EntonoxE6 6c **
49S.O.S.E5 6b6b *
50May Day ClimbHVS 5b, 4b
51May Day DirectE2 5b, 4b *
52DyadE3 6a **
53Edge of EriadorE4 5c **
54JunoE4 6a
55The Ambleside Brother's ClimbE5 6a *
56LeverageE1 5b ***
57Mickledore GroovesVS 4c ***
58Barry's TraverseHVS 5a **
59The FulcrumVS 4c **
60Fulcrum DirectE1 5c
61Mickledore AreteHVS 5a *
62AquavitE4 6b
63Midnight ExpressE3 6a **
64ChartreuseE1 5b **
65StriderE1 5b
66PernodVS 5a *
67Broad StandD
68When The Fat Lady SingsE2 5b5c
 WINTER LINES 
70Mickledore ChimneyIII
71Tia MariaV 6
72MinotaurVI 5 ***
73Variation FinishIV
74Slime ChimneyIV 4
75May Day DirectVI 6
76Overhanging Wall-Original FinishIV 5
77Variation StartIII
78Overhanging WallV 6
79White SlabIII 3
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