Craig Caerfai

Climbs 28 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features

Another excellent sandstone slab, and with a good choice of grades. The rock here is well-supplied with edges and cracks, and the most alluring ticks are probably Caerfai Crack and Armorican. The crag is a two-fold affair, with the easier lines on the higher-positioned left-hand end; the taller, darker slab on the right provides the longer and more adventurous forays into the Extreme grades plus a classic VS.

Approach notes

Drive up the hill to the edge of St David's (heading east), then take the first right to Caerfai Bay. Follow this road (past two rather expensive campsites) to reach the free car park at the end (the view here is absolutely STUNNING). Walk south-east on the coastal path; at around 600m, you'll reach a bend in the path and the top of the two-part slab, where five or so abseil stakes will be evident. It's possible to scramble into the crag from the left-hand side (looking in) utilising slabs and a ramp system - to locate this, first trend rightwards (north), then swing back southwards to gain the crag base. An alternative is an abseil down the crag's centre.

Pembroke Vol 1 - North Pembroke (2013), Pembroke (2009),
Out of print: Pembroke (part one) (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Authorised DiversionHS 4b 25
2Freak InVD 3
3Mildred MindwarpHS 4b *398
4White WallHS 4b *366
5NamelessVS 4c *357
6Unknown SentryHVS 5a *288
7The BrynVS 4c *301
8Caerfai CrackHS 4b *618
9White CornerD *190
10Submarine SlabVS 4b 195
11Burnt AreteVD 78
12Scorch GrooveD *124
13OrogenyE2 5b **193
14ArmoricanVS 4c ***815
15Age GapE2 5b *28
16Age ConcernE3 5c *42
17Uncertain SmileE2 5b **63
18Life's Just a BallgameE4 5c 1
19Curse of the CragmonstersE4 6a *1
20Crawl of the WildE1 5b *8
21RidgewayVD 1
22Old Cross CornerVS 4c  
23City SlabVS 4c 1
24Farmer's GrooveS 4a 1
25CrunchieHVS 4a  
26Coconut CrackS  
27Miss CoconutHVS 5a  
28The Bryn Left Hand *HVS 5b **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer loundsy

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