Climbs 29
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Crag features

Another excellent sandstone slab, and with a good choice of grades. The rock here is well-supplied with edges and cracks, and the most alluring ticks are probably Caerfai Crack and Armorican. The crag is a two-fold affair, with the easier lines on the higher-positioned left-hand end; the taller, darker slab on the right provides the longer and more adventurous forays into the Extreme grades plus a classic VS.

Approach notes

Drive up the hill to the edge of St David's (heading east), then take the first right to Caerfai Bay. Follow this road (past two rather expensive campsites) to reach the free car park at the end (the view here is absolutely STUNNING). Walk south-east on the coastal path; at around 600m, you'll reach a bend in the path and the top of the two-part slab, where five or so abseil stakes will be evident. It's possible to scramble into the crag from the left-hand side (looking in) utilising slabs and a ramp system - to locate this, first trend rightwards (north), then swing back southwards to gain the crag base. An alternative is an abseil down the crag's centre.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Rock (2016)
Pembroke Vol 1 - North Pembroke (2013)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Authorised Diversion
-
HS 4b 26
2Freak InVD 3
3Mildred MindwarpHS 4b *447
4White WallHS 4b *440
5NamelessVS 4c *402
6Unknown SentryHVS 5a *339
7The BrynVS 4c *356
8Caerfai CrackHS 4b *720
9White CornerD *224
10Submarine SlabVS 4b 234
11Burnt Arete
-
VD 93
12Scorch GrooveD *140
13OrogenyE2 5b **232
14ArmoricanVS 4c ***1057
15Age GapE2 5b *28
16Age ConcernE3 5c *52
17Uncertain SmileE2 5b **81
18Life's Just a Ballgame
-
E4 5c 1
19Curse of the Cragmonsters
-
E4 6a *1
20Crawl of the Wild
-
E1 5b *8
21Ridgeway
-
VD 1
22Old Cross Corner
-
VS 4c  
23City Slab
-
VS 4c 1
24Farmer's Groove
-
S 4a 1
25Crunchie
-
HVS 4a  
26Coconut Crack
-
S  
27Miss Coconut
-
HVS 5a  
28The Bryn Left Hand *HVS 5b **7
29Age Concern Direct *E1 5b ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer loundsy