Lower Sharpnose Point

Climbs 96 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
A major venue with incredible long thin fins sticking out into the sea facing both N and S (and some W). Tidal and abseil approach required. Bizarre construction but solid, and with a terrific concentration of hard face and crack climbs up to 150ft, with some tough 30ft testpieces for those lacking stamina. Many three-star routes, such as The Smile (E1 5b), Pacemaker (E5 6a) and Coronary Country (E6 6b). For the fit the grades will seem easy as the routes are mainly technically straightforward. The less travelled routes can be a bit dusty.

Approach notes

Near MOD land; best to park near the heavy metal gate a few hundred m N past the government buildings. Walk across the old airfield to join the coast path near the perimeter fence. Three narrow fins head out to the sea: that is them. Best to use the mixed slopes on the N and S of the fins.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), North Devon and Cornwall (2000), Javu website new routes,
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Lurcher JakE3 5c * 
3Cold SnapE4 6b  
4Grypt-Up PhynneE4 6a  
5Early MingE4 6a *1
6American ExcessE3 5c ** 
7Ning NongE3 5c 2
8Buoy ClimberMVS 4b 2
9Shadow PlayE2 5b * 
11Wafer PhynneE3 5b  
12DogsbodyE5 6b/c * 
13Culm DancingE5 6a ** 
14Blackthorn WinterE5 6a *1
15The DevonianE5 6a **8
16Poker FaceE3 6a *1
17HelsinkiE5 6b  
18A Handful of RustE6 6b  
19MasconE1 5a **129
20Village IdiotE2 5c 4
21Athabasca FallsE4 6a * 
22Bolder BoulderE4 6a *1
23Weekend MillionairesE3 6a * 
25HatchetHVS 4c 41
26Slice of LifeE4 6a 3
27Misery GoatE2 5b **99
28Last Laugh Direct StartE2 6a 5
29Last LaughE2 5c **107
30The SmirkE1 5a 39
31When the Goat Comes InE4 5c *3
32Diamond SmilesE3 5c ***178
33WraithE4 6a **75
34Feeding the RatE4 6a 1
35Dijon Extra-Strong (Mustard Direct)E5 6a 2
36Two Passports and a Cunning PlanE5 6b 1
37Crooked MileE3 5c **80
38MustardE4 6a  
39The SmileE1 5a ***368
40Out of the BlueE2 5b ***402
41Sea GreenE4 5c **74
42BrishanVS 4b 3
43Ace of DiamondsE2 5c 1
44Help Save the RhinoE3 6a  
45Kung Fu KecksE4 6a * 
46Fat Man's EliminateVS 2
48The Flying FinnE4 6a * 
49Spoils of WarE4 5c *9
50Lunakhod into Spoils of WarE1 5b 2
51LunakhodHVS 5a ***315
52ClawtrackHVS 4c *100
53Culm to MotherE5 6b **3
54Twilight ZoneE4 5c *15
55ChallengerE4 5c  
56Small Plate McGintyE5 6b  
57A Tonic for the TroopsE2 5b *18
58Mother's RuinE2 5b 1
59Alpine GroyneA2  
61FinesseE5 6b *2
62Tokyo Fish MafiaE6 6b **4
63Break On ThroughE4 5c ***168
64SunscapeE5 6a *2
65DiastoleE5 6a *4
66Magic Carpet FinishE5 6a  
67PacemakerE5 6a ***109
68Fanny CalderE5 6a * 
69FayE4 5c ***163
70Hellhound on my TrailE4 5c **6
71Heart By-passE4 5c **17
72Coronary Country (via Fay spike)E6 6b ***3
73Coronary Country (original start)E7 6b ***14
74The Monk's Satanic VersesE8 6c ***1
75MalefactorE5 5c *** 
76AzraelE4 5c **5
77Hearts and MindsE6 6a *2
78Rising MoistureHVS 5a  
79The Stunted Razor SnoutE4 6b  
81Cool, Culm, and CollectedE3 6a/5c  
82LeprosyE3 5c 2
83The LemmingE3 5b  
84Blunt EndHVS 5a 1
85UphillE3 5c *1
86Angle GrinderE3 5c * 
87EeyoreE3 5c *3
88ZazuumE4 6a/b  
89TiggerHVS 4c 1
90Heffalump TrapVS 4b 2
91DulcimaHVS 5a *75
92Old Dog, New TricksE2 5c *1
93XanthoriaHVS 5a *17
94Pooh CornerS 4a 5
95Cool MoonHVS 5b 2
96South PierD *9
98Poodle PowerS 4a 4
99IlliteracyVS 4c 8
100Stone ManVS 4c 11
101BonkVS 4c 7
102Pit BullE4 6a 1
104Never too SlateE4 6a 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Superb venue. Lots of cams required. When checking tide times, use Bude not Bideford. We used the wrong one and came very close to being stranded because if it! Also well worth bringing an ab rope. The rockfax guide implies there is a nice shiny bolted ab point on North Fin - there isn't. It has 2 pegs (1 very recent and solid) plus numerous good nut placements, so needs a properly set up and equalised ab, not just twin ropes and pull through. I'm sure this all seems very obvious to sea cliff afficionardoes, but we haven't done much sea cliff climbing so weren't expecting this.
hms - 11/Aug/13
If anyone is confused about the walk-in, it helps to know to walk between the COW HERD and RADAR DISHES, following the fence around before heading on the small path down to the fins. If it would be useful perhaps interested climbers could ask UKC to put a photo up illustrating this characterful approach.
Fiend - 11/Jan/08
Mascon, E1 5a, on the North face of the North fin is well worth doing. Worthy of E1, possibly touching on 5b and definitely worth 3 stars.
dennis may - 27/Sep/05