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Lower Sharpnose Point Cornwall, ENGLAND
Climbs 91 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces ?
A major venue with incredible long thin fins sticking out into the sea facing both N and S (and some W). Tidal and abseil approach required. Bizarre construction but solid, and with a terrific concentration of hard face and crack climbs up to 150ft, with some tough 30ft testpieces for those lacking stamina. Many three-star routes, such as The Smile (E1 5b), Pacemaker (E5 6a) and Coronary Country (E6 6b). For the fit the grades will seem easy as the routes are mainly technically straightforward. The less travelled routes can be a bit dusty.
West Country Climbs (2010), North Devon and Cornwall (2000), Javu website new routes,
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)
Climbs at this crag
Near MOD land; best to park near the heavy metal gate a few hundred m N past the government buildings. Walk across the old airfield to join the coast path near the perimeter fence. Three narrow fins head out to the sea: that is them. Best to use the mixed slopes on the N and S of the fins.
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball
If anyone is confused about the walk-in, it helps to know to walk between the COW HERD and RADAR DISHES, following the fence around before heading on the small path down to the fins. If it would be useful perhaps interested climbers could ask UKC to put a photo up illustrating this characterful approach.|
Fiend - 11/Jan/08
Mascon, E1 5a, on the North face of the North fin is well worth doing. Worthy of E1, possibly touching on 5b and definitely worth 3 stars.
dennis may - 27/Sep/05