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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SS 195126 (OS Landranger #180,190)

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These details were last updated on 07/Jun/2009

Lower Sharpnose Point

Cornwall, ENGLAND

Climbs 91 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
A major venue with incredible long thin fins sticking out into the sea facing both N and S (and some W). Tidal and abseil approach required. Bizarre construction but solid, and with a terrific concentration of hard face and crack climbs up to 150ft, with some tough 30ft testpieces for those lacking stamina. Many three-star routes, such as The Smile (E1 5b), Pacemaker (E5 6a) and Coronary Country (E6 6b). For the fit the grades will seem easy as the routes are mainly technically straightforward. The less travelled routes can be a bit dusty.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), North Devon and Cornwall (2000), Javu website new routes,
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 BABY FIN  
2Cold SnapE4 6b  
3Grypt-Up PhynneE4 6a  
4Early MingE4 6a * 
5American ExcessE3 5c  
6Ning NongE3 5c 1
 NORTH FIN - NORTH FACE  
8Wafer PhynneE3 5b  
9DogsbodyE5 6b/c * 
10Culm DancingE5 6a ** 
11Blackthorn WinterE5 6a * 
12The DevonianE5 6a **5
13Poker FaceE3 6a *1
14HelsinkiE5 6b  
15A Handful of RustE6 6b  
16MasconE1 5a **75
17Village IdiotE2 5c 2
18Athabasca FallsE4 6a * 
19Bolder BoulderE4 6a *1
20Weekend MillionairesE3 6a * 
 NORTH FIN - SOUTH FACE  
22HatchetHVS 4c 28
23Slice of LifeE4 6a 1
24Misery GoatE2 5c *50
25Last Laugh Direct StartE2 6a 4
26Last LaughE2 5c *58
27The SmirkE1 5a 28
28When the Goat Comes InE4 5c *2
29Diamond SmilesE3 5c ***111
30WraithE5 6b *43
31Feeding the RatE4 6a 1
32Dijon Extra-Strong (Mustard Direct)E5 6a 1
33Two Passports and a Cunning PlanE5 6b  
34Crooked MileE4 6a ***45
35MustardE4 6a  
36The SmileE1 5a **230
37Out of the BlueE2 5b ***262
38Sea GreenE4 5c **41
39BrishanVS 4b  
40Ace of DiamondsE2 5c 1
41Help Save the RhinoE3 6a  
42Kung Fu KecksE4 6a * 
43Fat Man's EliminateVS 2
 MIDDLE FIN - NORTH FACE  
45The Flying FinnE4 6a * 
46Spoils of WarE4 5c *7
47LunakhodHVS 5a ***204
48ClawtrackHVS 4c **58
49Culm to MotherE5 6b **3
 Climb nameGradex
50Twilight ZoneE4 5c *10
51ChallengerE4 5c  
52Small Plate McGintyE5 6b  
53A Tonic for the TroopsE2 5b *15
54Mother's RuinE2 5b 1
55Alpine GroyneA2  
 MIDDLE FIN - SOUTH FACE  
57FinesseE5 6b *2
58Tokyo Fish MafiaE6 6b **1
59Break On ThroughE4 6a ***104
60SunscapeE5 6a *2
61DiastoleE5 6a *2
62Magic Carpet FinishE5 6a  
63PacemakerE5 6a ***67
64Fanny CalderE5 6a * 
65FayE4 5c ***103
66Hellhound on my TrailE4 5c **5
67Heart By-passE4 5c **14
68Coronary Country (via Fay spike)E6 6b ***1
69Coronary Country (original start)E7 6b ***10
70The Monk's Satanic VersesE8 6c *** 
71MalefactorE5 5c *** 
72AzraelE4 5c **4
73Hearts and MindsE6 6a *1
74Rising MoistureHVS 5a  
75The Stunted Razor SnoutE4 6b  
 SOUTH FIN - NORTH FACE  
77Cool, Culm, and CollectedE3 6a/5c  
78LeprosyE3 5c 2
79The LemmingE3 5b  
80Blunt EndHVS 5a 1
81UphillE3 5c *1
82Angle GrinderE3 5c * 
83EeyoreE3 5c *1
84ZazuumE4 6a/b  
85TiggerHVS 4c 1
86Heffalump TrapVS 4b  
87DulcimaHVS 5a **47
88Old Dog, New TricksE2 5c *1
89XanthoriaHVS 5a *7
90Pooh CornerS 4a 3
91Cool MoonHVS 5b 2
92South PierD *7
 SOUTH FIN - SOUTH FACE  
94Poodle PowerS 4a 3
95IlliteracyVS 4c 6
96Stone ManVS 4c 9
97BonkVS 4c 4
98Pit BullE4 6a  
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Access notes
Tidal.

Near MOD land; best to park near the heavy metal gate a few hundred m N past the government buildings. Walk across the old airfield to join the coast path near the perimeter fence. Three narrow fins head out to the sea: that is them. Best to use the mixed slopes on the N and S of the fins.

Classifieds
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
If anyone is confused about the walk-in, it helps to know to walk between the COW HERD and RADAR DISHES, following the fence around before heading on the small path down to the fins. If it would be useful perhaps interested climbers could ask UKC to put a photo up illustrating this characterful approach.
Fiend - 11/Jan/08

Mascon, E1 5a, on the North face of the North fin is well worth doing. Worthy of E1, possibly touching on 5b and definitely worth 3 stars.
dennis may - 27/Sep/05