Vicarage Cliff

Climbs 59 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Sunny and sheltered, with short pleasant routes up to 90ft. Solid rock, an added bonus. Best offer is Box Of Delights (HS 4b).

Approach notes
Tidal - must be half-tide or less to reach base of routes.

Best approach: Follow coastal path from Morwenstowe Church. From the promontory to the south of Hawkers Hut, where a stream runs down, is a steep descent path about 50ft seawards of the main cliff line. About 20ft below the top is an old but solid metal stake hidden in a hollow which is good for a handline. An old 50m rope will just reach the beach. [Thanks, Andy Ashley.]

Alternative - and less safe: start descent at Hawkers Hut, to a long low promontory with a conspicuous tower halfway along. Take the steep grass slopes down to the beach near the mouth of Tidna Stream.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), Javu website new routes,
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Barnacle BillS 5a 3
 LUCKY HOLE  
3ClaireD *22
4The Non Conformistf8A *** 
5Bison BisonVD 5
6Romping RobertVS 4c *7
7Rectory Tea RoomsHVS 5a 6
 THE PROMONTORY  
9The AnchorVD 12
10A Dying ArtE1 6a 7
11PandoraVS 4b **187
12Lip GlossHVS 5c 18
13CatlinE1 5b 16
14SunstruckVS 4c *126
15Little DribblerHVS 5a **143
16Box of DelightsHS 4b ***340
17Joi de VivreHVS 5a *99
18TombstoneS 4a **242
19SolS 3c **185
20Monster RaceHS 4b 11
21Wellington's StandVS 4b **165
22Ron Hill VariationS 4b 3
23Exceptionally Smooth Bit UndersideS 4a 7
24Vicarage TowerVD 53
25Spotted DickS 125
26PissinonalampostS 1
27The Sunken WhaleHS 4b 2
28Before LunchHVS 5a 3
29WynotE1 5b 1
30HarpoonE2 5b **93
31High LivingHVS 5a 7
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Jelly Mould Surfer

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
i think there is a route missing from this! inbetween "crazy paving" and "in memoriam". instead of climbing on the right hand of the rib of "in memoriam", sticking to the left hand side only. well above HS! i believe it to be an E1 5b. very balancy, very crumbly rock too.
mackay780 - 23/Sep/11
romping robert is no more!!! its now defo on the beach!!!
bigrob - 03/May/10
Romping Robert may have suffered a rock fall? The left hand crack mentioned in the guide book now looks like an arete and there is a big slab of rock sitting on the beach!
leonjones - 15/Jun/09
an excellent little crag, with some v good HS-VS routes, espec if you like slab. a real suntrap. the descent off the back is a bit awkward and exposed, though when i was last there - a few years ago - there was tat to lower off. good caff for tea and scones, and pub, in morwenstowe.
cp - 14/Nov/02