Climbs 59
Rocktype Culm

Faces W

Matt on "Box of Delights", Vicarage Cliff, North Devon © Paul Evans

Crag features

Sunny and sheltered, with short pleasant routes up to 90ft. Solid rock, an added bonus. Best offer is Box Of Delights (HS 4b).

Approach notes

Tidal - must be half-tide or less to reach base of routes.

Best approach: Follow coastal path from Morwenstowe Church. From the promontory to the south of Hawkers Hut, where a stream runs down, is a steep descent path about 50ft seawards of the main cliff line. About 20ft below the top is an old but solid metal stake hidden in a hollow which is good for a handline. An old 50m rope will just reach the beach. [Thanks, Andy Ashley.]

Alternative - and less safe: start descent at Hawkers Hut, to a long low promontory with a conspicuous tower halfway along. Take the steep grass slopes down to the beach near the mouth of Tidna Stream.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
i think there is a route missing from this! inbetween "crazy paving" and "in memoriam". instead of climbing on the right hand of the rib of "in memoriam", sticking to the left hand side only. well above HS! i believe it to be an E1 5b. very balancy, very crumbly rock too.
mackay780 - 23/Sep/11
romping robert is no more!!! its now defo on the beach!!!
bigrob - 03/May/10
Romping Robert may have suffered a rock fall? The left hand crack mentioned in the guide book now looks like an arete and there is a big slab of rock sitting on the beach!
leonjones - 15/Jun/09
an excellent little crag, with some v good HS-VS routes, espec if you like slab. a real suntrap. the descent off the back is a bit awkward and exposed, though when i was last there - a few years ago - there was tat to lower off. good caff for tea and scones, and pub, in morwenstowe.
cp - 14/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Barnacle BillS 5a 3
 Lucky Hole 
3ClaireD *23
4The Non Conformistf8A *** 
5Bison Bison
VD 5
6 Romping RobertVS 4c *7
7Rectory Tea Rooms HVS 5a 6
 The Promontory 
9The AnchorVD 12
10A Dying Art
E1 6a 7
11PandoraVS 4b **195
12Lip GlossHVS 5c 18
13CatlinE1 5b 17
14SunstruckVS 4c *128
15Little DribblerHVS 5a **147
16Box of DelightsHS 4b ***350
17Joi de VivreHVS 5a *103
18TombstoneS 4a **260
19SolS 3c **200
20Monster RaceHS 4b 11
21Wellington's StandVS 4b **172
22Ron Hill VariationS 4b 3
23Exceptionally Smooth Bit Underside
S 4a 7
24Vicarage Tower
VD 53
25Spotted DickS 129
26PissinonalampostS 1
27The Sunken WhaleHS 4b 2
28Before LunchHVS 5a 3
29WynotE1 5b 1
30HarpoonE2 5b **95
31High LivingHVS 5a 7
32Crazy PavingE1 5a 24
33In Memoriam
HS 4a 66
34Mad Mags' ParasolVS 4c 46
35Big Willy StyleHS 4a 9
36ImbackS 2
37Choss and ChipsS 16
38C.U.Wen.I.C.VS 4b 3
39SubstituteHS 4b  
VS 4c 1
 The Landward Slabs 
42 Hawkers RibVD 4
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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