Vicarage Cliff

Climbs 46 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Sunny and sheltered, with short pleasant routes up to 90ft. Solid rock, an added bonus. Best offer is Box Of Delights (HS 4b).

Access notes
Tidal - must be half-tide or less to reach base of routes.

Best approach: Follow coastal path from Morwenstowe Church. From the promontory to the south of Hawkers Hut, where a stream runs down, is a steep descent path about 50ft seawards of the main cliff line. About 20ft below the top is an old but solid metal stake hidden in a hollow which is good for a handline. An old 50m rope will just reach the beach. [Thanks, Andy Ashley.]

Alternative - and less safe: start descent at Hawkers Hut, to a long low promontory with a conspicuous tower halfway along. Take the steep grass slopes down to the beach near the mouth of Tidna Stream.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), Javu website new routes,
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Barnacle BillS 5a 3
 LUCKY HOLE  
3ClaireD *22
4The Non Conformistf8A *** 
5Bison BisonVD 5
6Romping RobertVS 4c *7
7Rectory Tea RoomsHVS 5a 6
 THE PROMONTORY  
9The AnchorVD 12
10A Dying ArtE1 6a 7
11PandoraVS 4b **181
12Lip GlossHVS 5c 18
13CatlinE1 5b 16
14SunstruckVS 4c *124
15Little DribblerHVS 5a **141
16Box of DelightsHS 4b ***331
17Joi de VivreHVS 5a *98
18TombstoneS 4a **240
19SolS 3c **182
20Monster RaceHS 4b 11
21Wellington's StandVS 4b **164
22Ron Hill VariationS 4b 3
23Exceptionally Smooth Bit UndersideS 4a 7
24Vicarage TowerVD 49
25Spotted DickS 123
26PissinonalampostS 1
27The Sunken WhaleHS 4b 2
28Before LunchHVS 5a 3
29WynotE1 5b 1
30HarpoonE2 5b **91
31High LivingHVS 5a 7
32Crazy PavingE1 5a 23
33In MemoriamHS 4a 61
34Mad Mags' ParasolVS 4c 45
35Big Willy StyleHS 4a 8
36ImbackS 1
37Choss and ChipsS 16
38C.U.Wen.I.C.VS 4b 3
39SubstituteHS 4b  
40CuboidVS 4c 1
 THE LANDWARD SLABS  
42Hawkers RibVD 4
43More Tea, Vicar?S  
44The Bitch from the BushS 1
45Flaky PastryVS 1
46Rolling RockHVS 5a 8
47Grass HeadE1 5a 3
48Atom HeadE1 5c *34
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
i think there is a route missing from this! inbetween "crazy paving" and "in memoriam". instead of climbing on the right hand of the rib of "in memoriam", sticking to the left hand side only. well above HS! i believe it to be an E1 5b. very balancy, very crumbly rock too.
mackay780 - 23/Sep/11
romping robert is no more!!! its now defo on the beach!!!
bigrob - 03/May/10
Romping Robert may have suffered a rock fall? The left hand crack mentioned in the guide book now looks like an arete and there is a big slab of rock sitting on the beach!
leonjones - 15/Jun/09
an excellent little crag, with some v good HS-VS routes, espec if you like slab. a real suntrap. the descent off the back is a bit awkward and exposed, though when i was last there - a few years ago - there was tat to lower off. good caff for tea and scones, and pub, in morwenstowe.
cp - 14/Nov/02