Cornakey Cliff

Climbs 23 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces SW

Crag features
An archetypal culm coast cliff, with overlapping slabs of occasionally loose rock, but also some great routes up to 410ft - such as the classic Wreckers Slab (VS 4b), but also Stormy Weather (HVS 5a) and Sunday Bloody Sunday (E2 5c).

Access notes
Tidal: only accessible via Yeol Mouth at half-tide or lower.

Parking no longer allowed at Cornakey Farm (SS 210 163) (according to the BMC database).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), Javu website new routes,
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Waste of TimeVD
 THE SEAWARD SLAB 
3Swell LineHVS 4c
4The NoseVD
5Muggy WeatherVS 4b
6Stormy WeatherHVS 5a *
7Sunday Bloody SundayE1 5b **
8Sailing the Seas of CheeseE4 5c *
9Bradworthy 5HVS 5a
10Cancer CrackVS 4b
11Spanking ColonelE1 5a
12Dinner with the CreggsHVS 4c
13Gun MoneyE1 5c *
 THE MAIN SLAB 
15The PlankHVS 4c *
16Smugglers' SlabVS 4a *
17JoHVS
18Heaven and HellHVS 5a *
19Jolly RogerVS 4c
20Jolly HellHVS 4b
21Wreckers' SlabVS 4b **
 THE LANDWARD SLAB 
23Duty FreeVS 4c *
24BootleggersVS 4c
25ResurrectionE1 5b **
26DecapitationHS 4b
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Descent rope in place and in ok condition 12th June 2014.
Dave 88 - 16/Jun/14
Climbed wreckers slab today. The decent path down is showing lots of signs of very recent rockfall and the final bit was still falling when we got to it the groung in the area is veey unstable. We abbed down the back side of the ridge. The route itself seemed all good though once you got to it
george87 - 15/Jan/13
In-situ rope is still there on the descent, and in pretty good nick.
Dave 88 - 19/Nov/11
The stake at the top of stormy weather has been replaced. Thanks to the brave northcoasteer who carried a sledge hammer all that way.
Han Woolley - 22/Oct/10
This is a long shot but here goes... I was climbing on Stormy Weather on 26,6,2010. Unfortunately one of my mates had a bad fall so we had to leave in a hurry. Two of my cams are still in the route, if any one finds them and would like to return them I would be very grateful as I don't live in Cornwall. My email is mxjxl@hotmail.com Many thanks
Mendip Marty - 27/Jun/10
Access to the bottom good. When ur heading down, Head left and hug the cliff edge for a scree slope and tricky descent, or keep right for a bushy safer descent (imo). Do not climb "The Plank" unless you are well experienced and have an assortment of pegs. The top is EXTREMELY loose, in the fullest sense of the word! Check Javu.co.uk new routes section, for a more exciting version of Wreckers. "Wreckers Right Hand", bringing back the looseness and exposure :)
El3ctroFuzz - 24/May/10
Stake at top of stormy weather is now useless snapped 14/2/10 When I breathed on it, needs replacing!!
bigrob - 15/Feb/10
There is (currently at least) some tatty in-situ rope for the final part of the descent path mentioned as eroded in the guide.
quadmyre - 10/Jul/07