Gull Rock - Marsland

Climbs 48 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude 5m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Not high - routes up to 120ft - but interesting, sunny and near a family beach (Welcombe Beach). Slabby routes. Easily the best is Walking On The Moon (HVS 5a). 26/3/2011 Abseil pegs in poor condition, in situ back up rope seen better dasy if anyone goin that way could replace it great! Peg in argaunout now dead as is peg in crazy streak/ousieux, lead boots pegs so so

Access notes
Tidal in many parts, though the central slab should be uncovered at high water.

Reached either by traversing from Welcombe Beach (low tide) or Marsland Mouth. Or scramble down the headland by a faint path to the top of the promontory, and abseil (pegs in situ).

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), North Devon and Cornwall (2000), Javu website new routes,
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
3SycoVS 4a
4SlabbyMVS 4b
6MicroHS 4a/b *
7SteveVD *
8Wet CornerS
10Gullible TooS
11Tha' Wer' EasyHS
13Little LambsVS 4c
14DeimosVS 4c
15Silence of the LambsVS 4b
16The Teardrop ExplodesE4 5c
17Electric LemonadeE1 5b
18Tha' Wer' 'ArdE1 5b
21Maxland ArmadilloS
22PopadomVS 4b
23Savage PoodleVD
24Red CarnationVS 4c
25Rock-Pool CrackHS 4b
26Rock-Pool SlabVS 4c
27Limpet BizkitVS 4b
29Seaward EdgeHS 4a *
30Shivering TimbersVS 4c
31Solid AirVS 4b
32ArgonautVS 4c
33Crazy StreakHVS 5a
34OiseauxHVS 5a *
35Walking on the MoonHVS 5a **
36Lead BootsE1 5b *
37Wicks FollyVS 4c
38Haile DubiousE2 5c
39Magical StaircaseS
40Summer WineHVS 5b *
42Thief of BaghdadE4 5c *
43ArabesqueE4 5c *
44Wolf SolentE2 5b
45Breaking TimeE3 5b/c
46RagamuffinE2 5b
47Haile SelassieE2 5c **
48Bare NecessitiesE5 6a *
49Gadener's DelightE1 5a
51Pale FireE2 5c
52Final StrawXS 4b
53Booby PrizeE6 6b ***
54Safe as MilkE2 5b
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The abseil stake to the top of Baywatch Wall no longer appears to be in place, so the walk around the bay is the only sensible access route.
Alex Thompson - 31/Aug/14
Abseiled in twenty metres up the hill/North from the stream that comes down through Marsland woods, down a loose shale slope that I thought would make a reasonable exit when the tide came in - my sixty metres rope was about five short so I slid down the final rubble/mud ramp. The rope was fixed I could use it to help on the way back - I came up the rope with a prussik, then belayed partner up. Was tough for both parties and could have escaped more easily off the back of the Gull Rock headland (above Haile Selasse probably best). Oh well, you live and learn...
Motown - 13/Jan/13
If you get cut off by the tide you will have to face the Alpine ascent up the ridge. The ground is very unstable and whilst it is advisable to rope up there is very little solid protection. I once descended this way ... never again!
Kafoozalem - 09/May/12
A great crag in a great situation, best approach is via the beach, but be careful of the tidal, we got caught out and had to walk back out over the cliffs, puffed out. Take small wires as protection is scarse in places, abundmet of stakes and a few pegs.
Chris M at work - 16/Jun/03