Gull Rock - Marsland

Climbs 48 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude 5m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Not high - routes up to 120ft - but interesting, sunny and near a family beach (Welcombe Beach). Slabby routes. Easily the best is Walking On The Moon (HVS 5a). 26/3/2011 Abseil pegs in poor condition, in situ back up rope seen better dasy if anyone goin that way could replace it great! Peg in argaunout now dead as is peg in crazy streak/ousieux, lead boots pegs so so

Intermediate Warning: A serious accident occurred on this crag in May 2015. The reasons have not been established so until the cause is known please take care on route selection and when abseiling.

Approach notes
Tidal in many parts, though the central slab should be uncovered at high water.

Reached either by traversing from Welcombe Beach (low tide) or Marsland Mouth. Or scramble down the headland by a faint path to the top of the promontory, and abseil (pegs in situ).

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), North Devon and Cornwall (2000), Javu website new routes,
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2HypoHVD 3
3SycoVS 4a  
4SlabbyMVS 4b 3
6MicroHS 4a/b *2
7SteveVD *3
8Wet CornerS 1
10Gullible TooS 1
11Tha' Wer' EasyHS 1
12FitzharberHS 1
13Little LambsVS 4c 1
14DeimosVS 4c  
15Silence of the LambsVS 4b  
16The Teardrop ExplodesE4 5c  
17Electric LemonadeE1 5b 2
18Tha' Wer' 'ArdE1 5b  
21Maxland ArmadilloS 9
22PopadomVS 4b 12
23Savage PoodleVD 4
24Red CarnationVS 4c 8
25Rock-Pool CrackHS 4b 11
26Rock-Pool SlabVS 4c 3
27Limpet BizkitVS 4b 1
29Seaward EdgeHS 4a *79
30Shivering TimbersVS 4b *93
31Solid AirVS 4b **151
32ArgonautHVS 4c 29
33Crazy StreakE1 5a *27
34OiseauxE1 5b **52
35Walking on the MoonHVS 5a **121
36Lead BootsE1 5b *38
37Wicks FollyVS 4c 23
38Haile DubiousE2 5c  
39Magical StaircaseS 23
40Summer WineHVS 5b * 
42Thief of BaghdadE4 5c *11
43ArabesqueE4 5c *1
44Wolf SolentE2 5b  
45Breaking TimeE3 5b/c  
46RagamuffinE2 5b  
47Haile SelassieE2 5c **52
48Bare NecessitiesE5 6a * 
49Gadener's DelightE1 5a  
51Pale FireE2 5c  
52Final StrawXS 4b 1
53Booby PrizeE6 6b ***2
54Safe as MilkE2 5b 2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
We left some static rope and a carabiner above Red Carnation. So, there's now an abseil point above the rock pool climbs, although someone might want to bring a maillon with them as there's currently only a snap-gate in place (hasty improvisation)!
ianlaw - 09/Apr/15
The abseil stake to the top of Baywatch Wall no longer appears to be in place, so the walk around the bay is the only sensible access route.
Alex Thompson - 31/Aug/14
Abseiled in twenty metres up the hill/North from the stream that comes down through Marsland woods, down a loose shale slope that I thought would make a reasonable exit when the tide came in - my sixty metres rope was about five short so I slid down the final rubble/mud ramp. The rope was fixed I could use it to help on the way back - I came up the rope with a prussik, then belayed partner up. Was tough for both parties and could have escaped more easily off the back of the Gull Rock headland (above Haile Selasse probably best). Oh well, you live and learn...
Motown - 13/Jan/13
If you get cut off by the tide you will have to face the Alpine ascent up the ridge. The ground is very unstable and whilst it is advisable to rope up there is very little solid protection. I once descended this way ... never again!
Kafoozalem - 09/May/12
A great crag in a great situation, best approach is via the beach, but be careful of the tidal, we got caught out and had to walk back out over the cliffs, puffed out. Take small wires as protection is scarse in places, abundmet of stakes and a few pegs.
Chris M at work - 16/Jun/03