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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SR 973928 (OS Landranger #158)

St. Govan's Head

Pembrokeshire, WALES

Climbs 156 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Fantastic seacliff climbing from mostly non-tidal stances. Includes classics such as Front Line (HVS 5a) and The Arrow (E1 5b).

Polished in places though.

January 2006: massive rockfall has taken out at least 50 yards of crag for the full height of the cliff, leaving a pile of rubble about 60ft high in places. Routes affected are from somewhere near Wicked Gravity to Crimes of Passion. Access to routes to the right would only be by direct abseil. The rest of St. Govans looks OK. [Steve Quinton]

Weather forecast

Today	Sun	Mon	Tue	Wed

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006), Pembroke (part two) (1996),
Out of print: Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	ARMY DREAMERS AREA
2	The candlestick maker	E1 5b *	18
3	Sacked	E2 5c	2
4	Lemming Way	S	105
5	Lines of Control	VS	4
6	Exit Corner	VD	87
7	Rock-a-Block	E3 5c	8
8	Sandbagged	VS 4c	81
9	Just before Dark	HVS 5a	10
10	On Wenlock Edge	E4 5c *	10
11	Rub-a-Dub-Dub	E2 5c	9
12	Stacked Against	VS 4b	105
13	Standing on the Fox	HVS 5a	4
14	Kinvig	E1 5b	26
15	Front Line Variation (line out)	E1 5a *	16
16	Front Line	HVS 5a **	396
17	The Baker	E2 5c	11
18	Army Dreamers	HVS 5a **	658
19	Shell Shock	VS 4c	39
20	Sharp Shooter	E4 5c	5
21	Sharp Shock	E2 5b	8
22	Bomb Bay	VS 4c	205
23	Bomb Scare	E4 6a
24	Panzer II	HVS 5a	93
25	Descent Chimney	D	3
26	Cruise	HVS 5a	1
27	Up Against the Wall	HVS 5a	25
28	Chieftain	VS 4c *	251
29	The Butcher	E2 5c **	313
30	Vice is Nice	E2 5b *	187
31	But Incest is Best	E1 5b *	196
32	Gandhi	VS 4b	83
33	Calmness is a state o f mind	E1 5a	2
34	Centurion	S	174
35	The Loosener	HVS 5a *	93
	TEST CASE AREA
37	Clean Hand Blues Band	E2 5c **	320
38	Munchies	HVS 5a	45
39	Let Him Babble On	E4 6a *	10
40	Babbalonia	E4 6a
41	Desire	E1 5b	10
42	Piggy's Crack	E1 5b *	32
43	John Wayne	E5 6a **	35
44	Charisma	E3 6a *	36
45	Head Case	E4 5c	1
46	Test Case	E3 5c ***	148
47	Semaphore Signals	E4 6a *	4
48	Space Cadet	E3 5c ***	154
49	The Call Up	E4 6b *	9
50	In Orbit	E5 6b *
51	Kraken	E1 5b *	60
	ARROW AREA
53	Flanker	VS 4c *	118
54	Quiver	E3 5c *	5
55	Ricochet	E2 5c **	155
56	Poisoned Arrow	E4 6a *	66
	TACTITION AREA
58	Cupids Bow	HVS 5a **	130
59	Stupid Cupid	E5 6a	1
60	The Arrow	E1 5b ***	595
61	Flight Path	E3 5c *	19
62	The Rising Tide	E4 6a **	49

	Climb name	Grade	x

63	Raw Recruits	E3 5c *	24
64	Get Some In	E5 6a ***	77
65	You Got Me Into This!	E5 6b **	2
66	Hangover '77	E1 5b *	126
67	Still Hungover 2000	E2 5b	10
68	War Crime	E2 5b **	101
69	Get Out of That!	E4 5c	6
70	No Man's Land	E4 5c **	22
71	War Games	E1 5b *	179
72	Blucher	E5 6a **	16
73	Tactician	HVS 5a **	271
74	Depraved	E1 5b	61
75	Deranged	E2 5c ***	250
76	A Shot in the Dark	E5 6b *
77	Draught Dodger	E5 6b **	3
78	Shot by Both Sides	E5 6b **	1
79	D-Day	E2 5c	16
80	Conscientious Objector	E3 5c ***	31
81	Mission Impossible	E5 6a
82	Fire Power	E3 5c	6
83	Lookout Arete	HVS 5a *	2
84	New Lookout Arete	E3 5c	2
85	Range Rider	E3 5c *	21
86	Photocall	E2 5b	16
87	The Alamo	E4 6b *
88	Zero Hour	VS 5b *	31
89	Aural Sculpture	E2 5b	3
90	Nightmare	HVS 5a	44
91	blockbuster	E2 5b	1
92	Banana Drama	E5 6b *	1
93	Tangerine Dream	E4 6a ***	91
94	Sentinel corner	HVS 5a	7
95	brighton beach	HVS 4c	1
96	Murray's Wall	E3 5c	7
	PUBLIC ENEMY AREA
98	Goad	HVS 5a	1
99	Wicked Gravity	E5 6b ***	7
100	Equilibrium	E5 6a **	3
101	Equipoise	E5 6a **	1
102	Gorilla Action	E6 6b ***
103	Janus	E6 6a ***
104	Skyraider	E3 5c *	1
105	Lost Leaders	E3 5c **	14
106	Teacher's Pet	E4 6a *
107	Face Value	E2 5c **	17
108	The Stranger	E3 6a **	2
109	Please Sir	E5 6a **
110	Public Enemy	E5 6b ***	8
111	Crime of the Century	E6 6c ***
112	Crime and Punishment	E5 6b **
113	The Brothers Karamazov	E9 6c
114	War and Peace/Raskolnikov	E7 6c ***
115	Crimes of Passion	E6 6b ***
116	Stray Bullet	E5 6a *
117	Passion	E4 6a **	6
118	Roving Eye	E3 5c *	1
119	Solitary Confinement	E3 6a *	2
120	Zodiac	E2 5b ***	6
121	Hammerhead	HVS 4c	2
122	Crab Catcher	VS 5a **	4
123	What a Comedown	VS 4c	2

Access notes
Most people abseil in from stakes at the top of cliffs. Beware climbers below. Alternative is a descent chimney - not much fun, but less risk to others.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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