St. Govan's Head

Climbs 156 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features

Fantastic seacliff climbing from mostly non-tidal stances. Includes classics such as Front Line (HVS 5a) and The Arrow (E1 5b). Polished in places though. January 2006: massive rockfall has taken out at least 50 yards of crag for the full height of the cliff, leaving a pile of rubble about 60ft high in places. Routes affected are from somewhere near Wicked Gravity to Crimes of Passion. Access to routes to the right would only be by direct abseil. The rest of St. Govans looks OK. [Steve Quinton]

Access notes

Most people abseil in from stakes at the top of cliffs. Beware climbers below. Alternative is a descent chimney - not much fun, but less risk to others.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 FRONT LINE  
2The candlestick makerE1 5b *28
3SackedE2 5c 2
4Lemming WayS *166
5Lines of ControlVS 9
6Exit CornerVD 137
7Rock-a-BlockE2 5b 12
8SandbaggedVS 4c *128
9Just before DarkHVS 5a 20
10On Wenlock EdgeE4 5c *12
11Rub-a-Dub-DubE2 5c 12
12Stacked AgainstVS 4b 158
13Standing on the FoxHVS 5a 7
14KinvigE1 5b *39
15Front Line Variation (line out)E1 5a *31
16Front LineHVS 5a **549
17The BakerE2 5c 16
 ARMY DREAMERS AREA  
19Army DreamersHVS 5a ***970
20Army Dreamers DirectE4 6a *1
21Shell ShockVS 4c 63
22Sharp ShooterE4 5c 6
23Sharp ShockE2 5b 11
24Bomb BayVS 4c *302
25Bomb ScareE4 6a  
26Panzer IIHVS 5a 130
27Descent ChimneyD 16
28CruiseHVS 5a 4
 THE BUTCHER  
30Up Against the WallHVS 5a 28
31ChieftainVS 5a *338
32The ButcherE3 5c ***474
33Vice is NiceE2 5b *258
34But Incest is BestE1 5b *248
35GandhiVS 4c 105
36Calmness is a state o f mindE1 5a 2
37CenturionS 4a *253
38The LoosenerHVS 5a *137
 TEST CASE AREA  
40Clean Hand Blues BandE2 5b **439
41MunchiesHVS 5a 58
42Let Him Babble OnE4 6a *16
43BabbaloniaE4 6a  
44DesireE1 5b 15
45Piggy's CrackE1 5b *40
46John WayneE5 6a **57
47CharismaE3 6a *44
48Head CaseE4 5c 1
49Test CaseE3 5c ***216
50Semaphore SignalsE4 6a *4
51Space CadetE3 5c ***231
52The Call UpE4 6b *13
53In OrbitE5 6b * 
54KrakenE1 5b **94
 ARROW AREA  
56FlankerVS 4c *167
57QuiverE3 5c *8
58RicochetE2 5c **222
59Poisoned ArrowE4 6a *91
60Broken ArrowE4 6a *1
61Cupids BowHVS 5a **179
62Stupid CupidE5 6a 3
63The ArrowE1 5b ***846
64Flight PathE3 5c *27
65The Rising TideE4 6a **65
 TACTITION AREA  
67Raw RecruitsE3 5c *35
68Get Some InE5 6a ***112
69You Got Me Into This!E5 6b **2
70Hangover '77E1 5b **180
71Still Hungover 2000E2 5b 20
72War CrimeE2 5b **138
73Get Out of That!E4 5c 8
74No Man's LandE4 5c **36
75War GamesE1 5b **238
76BlucherE5 6a *34
77TacticianHVS 5a **391
 DERANGED  
79DepravedE2 5c **83
80DerangedE2 5b ***358
81A Shot in the DarkE5 6b *1
82Draught DodgerE5 6b **8
83Shot by Both SidesE5 6b **5
84D-DayE2 5c *23
85Conscientious ObjectorE3 5c 37
86Mission ImpossibleE6 6b  
87Fire PowerE3 5c 7
88Lookout AreteHVS 5a *4
 RANGE RIDER  
90New Lookout AreteE3 5c *3
91Range RiderE3 5c *38
92PhotocallE2 5b 23
93The AlamoE4 6b * 
94Zero HourHVS 5b *49
95Aural SculptureE2 5b 4
96NightmareHVS 5a 67
97blockbusterE2 5b 1
98Banana DramaE5 6b *1
99Tangerine DreamE4 6a ***135
100Sentinel cornerHVS 5a 9
101brighton beachHVS 4c 1
102Murray's WallE3 5c 9
 PUBLIC ENEMY AREA  
104GoadHVS 5a 1
105Wicked GravityE5 6b ***7
106EquilibriumE5 6a **3
107EquipoiseE5 6a **1
108Gorilla ActionE6 6b *** 
109JanusE6 6a *** 
110SkyraiderE3 5c *2
111Lost LeadersE3 5c **18
112Teacher's PetE4 6a * 
113Face ValueE2 5c **24
114The StrangerE3 6a **2
115Please SirE5 6a ** 
116Public EnemyE5 6b ***10
117Crime of the CenturyE6 6c *** 
118Crime and PunishmentE5 6b **1
119The Brothers KaramazovE9 6c  
120War and Peace/RaskolnikovE7 6c *** 
121Crimes of PassionE6 6b *** 
122Stray BulletE5 6a *1
123PassionE4 6a **6
124Roving EyeE3 5c *2
125Solitary ConfinementE3 6a *2
126ZodiacE2 5b ***11
127HammerheadHVS 4c 2
128Crab CatcherVS 5a **4
129What a ComedownVS 4c 2
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Stoney by the sea - the worst of the major crags in Pembroke?? Still some of the routes are good...
Fiend - 08/Apr/06