St. Govan's Head

Climbs 156 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Fantastic seacliff climbing from mostly non-tidal stances. Includes classics such as Front Line (HVS 5a) and The Arrow (E1 5b).

Polished in places though.

January 2006: massive rockfall has taken out at least 50 yards of crag for the full height of the cliff, leaving a pile of rubble about 60ft high in places. Routes affected are from somewhere near Wicked Gravity to Crimes of Passion. Access to routes to the right would only be by direct abseil. The rest of St. Govans looks OK. [Steve Quinton]

Access notes
Most people abseil in from stakes at the top of cliffs. Beware climbers below. Alternative is a descent chimney - not much fun, but less risk to others.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 ARMY DREAMERS AREA  
2The candlestick makerE1 5b *23
3SackedE2 5c 2
4Lemming WayS 155
5Lines of ControlVS 8
6Exit CornerVD 118
7Rock-a-BlockE3 5c 12
8SandbaggedVS 4c 116
9Just before DarkHVS 5a 18
10On Wenlock EdgeE4 5c *11
11Rub-a-Dub-DubE2 5c 12
12Stacked AgainstVS 4b 144
13Standing on the FoxHVS 5a 7
14KinvigE1 5b 37
15Front Line Variation (line out)E1 5a *29
16Front LineHVS 5a **512
17The BakerE2 5c 14
18Army DreamersHVS 5a **884
19Shell ShockVS 4c 60
20Sharp ShooterE4 5c 6
21Sharp ShockE2 5b 10
22Bomb BayVS 4c 280
23Bomb ScareE4 6a  
24Panzer IIHVS 5a 119
25Descent ChimneyD 13
26CruiseHVS 5a 4
27Up Against the WallHVS 5a 26
28ChieftainVS 4c *310
29The ButcherE2 5c **429
30Vice is NiceE2 5b *244
31But Incest is BestE1 5b *238
32GandhiVS 4b 102
33Calmness is a state o f mindE1 5a 2
34CenturionS 239
35The LoosenerHVS 5a *130
 TEST CASE AREA  
37Clean Hand Blues BandE2 5c **401
38MunchiesHVS 5a 57
39Let Him Babble OnE4 6a *14
40BabbaloniaE4 6a  
41DesireE1 5b 14
42Piggy's CrackE1 5b *38
43John WayneE5 6a **44
44CharismaE3 6a *42
45Head CaseE4 5c 1
46Test CaseE3 5c ***190
47Semaphore SignalsE4 6a *4
48Space CadetE3 5c ***206
49The Call UpE4 6b *11
50In OrbitE5 6b * 
51KrakenE1 5b *85
 ARROW AREA  
53FlankerVS 4c *153
54QuiverE3 5c *7
55RicochetE2 5c **195
56Poisoned ArrowE4 6a *76
 TACTITION AREA  
58Cupids BowHVS 5a **171
59Stupid CupidE5 6a 3
60The ArrowE1 5b ***785
61Flight PathE3 5c *25
62The Rising TideE4 6a **58
63Raw RecruitsE3 5c *33
64Get Some InE5 6a ***98
65You Got Me Into This!E5 6b **2
66Hangover '77E1 5b *162
67Still Hungover 2000E2 5b 18
68War CrimeE2 5b **128
69Get Out of That!E4 5c 7
70No Man's LandE4 5c **31
71War GamesE1 5b *224
72BlucherE5 6a **24
73TacticianHVS 5a **355
74DepravedE1 5b 76
75DerangedE2 5c ***318
76A Shot in the DarkE5 6b * 
77Draught DodgerE5 6b **4
78Shot by Both SidesE5 6b **1
79D-DayE2 5c 19
80Conscientious ObjectorE3 5c ***36
81Mission ImpossibleE5 6a  
82Fire PowerE3 5c 6
83Lookout AreteHVS 5a *4
84New Lookout AreteE3 5c 3
85Range RiderE3 5c *32
86PhotocallE2 5b 22
87The AlamoE4 6b * 
88Zero HourVS 5b *45
89Aural SculptureE2 5b 4
90NightmareHVS 5a 61
91blockbusterE2 5b 1
92Banana DramaE5 6b *1
93Tangerine DreamE4 6a ***123
94Sentinel cornerHVS 5a 9
95brighton beachHVS 4c 1
96Murray's WallE3 5c 8
 PUBLIC ENEMY AREA  
98GoadHVS 5a 1
99Wicked GravityE5 6b ***7
100EquilibriumE5 6a **3
101EquipoiseE5 6a **1
102Gorilla ActionE6 6b *** 
103JanusE6 6a *** 
104SkyraiderE3 5c *2
105Lost LeadersE3 5c **18
106Teacher's PetE4 6a * 
107Face ValueE2 5c **23
108The StrangerE3 6a **2
109Please SirE5 6a ** 
110Public EnemyE5 6b ***10
111Crime of the CenturyE6 6c *** 
112Crime and PunishmentE5 6b **1
113The Brothers KaramazovE9 6c  
114War and Peace/RaskolnikovE7 6c *** 
115Crimes of PassionE6 6b *** 
116Stray BulletE5 6a *1
117PassionE4 6a **6
118Roving EyeE3 5c *2
119Solitary ConfinementE3 6a *2
120ZodiacE2 5b ***10
121HammerheadHVS 4c 2
122Crab CatcherVS 5a **4
123What a ComedownVS 4c 2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer loundsy

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Stoney by the sea - the worst of the major crags in Pembroke?? Still some of the routes are good...
Fiend - 08/Apr/06