St. Govan's Head

Climbs 156 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Fantastic seacliff climbing from mostly non-tidal stances. Includes classics such as Front Line (HVS 5a) and The Arrow (E1 5b).

Polished in places though.

January 2006: massive rockfall has taken out at least 50 yards of crag for the full height of the cliff, leaving a pile of rubble about 60ft high in places. Routes affected are from somewhere near Wicked Gravity to Crimes of Passion. Access to routes to the right would only be by direct abseil. The rest of St. Govans looks OK. [Steve Quinton]

Access notes
Most people abseil in from stakes at the top of cliffs. Beware climbers below. Alternative is a descent chimney - not much fun, but less risk to others.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 ARMY DREAMERS AREA  
2The candlestick makerE1 5b *25
3SackedE2 5c 2
4Lemming WayS *157
5Lines of ControlVS 8
6Exit CornerVD 122
7Rock-a-BlockHVS 5a 12
8SandbaggedVS 4c *116
9Just before DarkE1 5a 18
10On Wenlock EdgeE4 5c *12
11Rub-a-Dub-DubE2 5c 12
12Stacked AgainstVS 4b 149
13Standing on the FoxHVS 5a 7
14KinvigE1 5b *37
15Front Line Variation (line out)E1 5a *30
16Front LineHVS 5a **517
17The BakerE2 5c 15
18Army DreamersHVS 5a ***906
19Army Dreamers DirectE4 6a *1
20Shell ShockVS 4c 63
21Sharp ShooterE4 5c 6
22Sharp ShockE2 5b 11
23Bomb BayVS 4c *286
24Bomb ScareE4 6a  
25Panzer IIHVS 5a 122
26Descent ChimneyD 15
27CruiseHVS 5a 4
28Up Against the WallHVS 5a 27
29ChieftainVS 5a *316
30The ButcherE3 5c ***434
31Vice is NiceE2 5b *247
32But Incest is BestE1 5b *239
33GandhiVS 4c 104
34Calmness is a state o f mindE1 5a 2
35CenturionS 4a *249
36The LoosenerHVS 5a *131
 TEST CASE AREA  
38Clean Hand Blues BandE1 5b **405
39MunchiesHVS 5a 58
40Let Him Babble OnE4 6a *15
41BabbaloniaE4 6a  
42DesireE1 5b 15
43Piggy's CrackE1 5b *40
44John WayneE5 6a **45
45CharismaE4 6a *44
46Head CaseE4 5c 1
47Test CaseE3 5c ***194
48Semaphore SignalsE4 6a *4
49Space CadetE3 5c ***213
50The Call UpE4 6b *12
51In OrbitE5 6b * 
52KrakenE1 5b **87
 ARROW AREA  
54FlankerVS 4c *157
55QuiverE3 5c *7
56RicochetE2 5c **198
57Poisoned ArrowE4 6a *77
58Cupids BowHVS 5a **173
59Stupid CupidE5 6a 3
60The ArrowE1 5b ***796
61Flight PathE3 5c *27
62The Rising TideE4 6a **59
 TACTITION AREA  
64Raw RecruitsE3 5c *34
65Get Some InE5 6a ***100
66You Got Me Into This!E5 6b **2
67Hangover '77E1 5b **163
68Still Hungover 2000E2 5b 18
69War CrimeE2 5b **129
70Get Out of That!E4 5c 8
71No Man's LandE4 5c **34
72War GamesE1 5b **229
73BlucherE5 6a *25
74TacticianHVS 5a **360
75DepravedE2 5c **80
76DerangedE2 5b ***328
77A Shot in the DarkE5 6b *1
78Draught DodgerE5 6b **5
79Shot by Both SidesE5 6b **1
80D-DayE2 5c *23
81Conscientious ObjectorE3 5c 37
82Mission ImpossibleE6 6b  
83Fire PowerE3 5c 7
84Lookout AreteHVS 5a *4
85New Lookout AreteE3 5c *3
86Range RiderE3 5c *33
87PhotocallE2 5b 22
88The AlamoE4 6b * 
89Zero HourHVS 5b *47
90Aural SculptureE2 5b 4
91NightmareHVS 5a 62
92blockbusterE2 5b 1
93Banana DramaE5 6b *1
94Tangerine DreamE4 6a ***125
95Sentinel cornerHVS 5a 9
96brighton beachHVS 4c 1
97Murray's WallE3 5c 9
 PUBLIC ENEMY AREA  
99GoadHVS 5a 1
100Wicked GravityE5 6a ***7
101EquilibriumE5 6a **3
102EquipoiseE5 6a **1
103Gorilla ActionE6 6b *** 
104JanusE6 6a *** 
105SkyraiderE3 5c *2
106Lost LeadersE3 5c **18
107Teacher's PetE4 6a * 
108Face ValueE2 5c **24
109The StrangerE3 6a **2
110Please SirE5 6a ** 
111Public EnemyE5 6b ***10
112Crime of the CenturyE6 6c *** 
113Crime and PunishmentE5 6b **1
114The Brothers KaramazovE9 6c  
115War and Peace/RaskolnikovE7 6c *** 
116Crimes of PassionE6 6b *** 
117Stray BulletE5 6a *1
118PassionE4 6a **6
119Roving EyeE3 5c *2
120Solitary ConfinementE3 6a *2
121ZodiacE2 5b ***11
122HammerheadHVS 4c 2
123Crab CatcherVS 5a **4
124What a ComedownVS 4c 2
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Stoney by the sea - the worst of the major crags in Pembroke?? Still some of the routes are good...
Fiend - 08/Apr/06