St. Govan's Head Pembrokeshire, WALES
Climbs 156 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces SW
Fantastic seacliff climbing from mostly non-tidal stances. Includes classics such as Front Line (HVS 5a) and The Arrow (E1 5b).
Polished in places though.
January 2006: massive rockfall has taken out at least 50 yards of crag for the full height of the cliff, leaving a pile of rubble about 60ft high in places. Routes affected are from somewhere near Wicked Gravity to Crimes of Passion. Access to routes to the right would only be by direct abseil. The rest of St. Govans looks OK. [Steve Quinton]
Most people abseil in from stakes at the top of cliffs. Beware climbers below. Alternative is a descent chimney - not much fun, but less risk to others.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
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Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)
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Stoney by the sea - the worst of the major crags in Pembroke?? Still some of the routes are good...|
Fiend - 08/Apr/06