St. Govan's Head

Climbs 156 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Fantastic seacliff climbing from mostly non-tidal stances. Includes classics such as Front Line (HVS 5a) and The Arrow (E1 5b).

Polished in places though.

January 2006: massive rockfall has taken out at least 50 yards of crag for the full height of the cliff, leaving a pile of rubble about 60ft high in places. Routes affected are from somewhere near Wicked Gravity to Crimes of Passion. Access to routes to the right would only be by direct abseil. The rest of St. Govans looks OK. [Steve Quinton]

Access notes
Most people abseil in from stakes at the top of cliffs. Beware climbers below. Alternative is a descent chimney - not much fun, but less risk to others.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 ARMY DREAMERS AREA 
2The candlestick makerE1 5b *
3SackedE2 5c
4Lemming WayS
5Lines of ControlVS
6Exit CornerVD
7Rock-a-BlockE3 5c
8SandbaggedVS 4c
9Just before DarkHVS 5a
10On Wenlock EdgeE4 5c *
11Rub-a-Dub-DubE2 5c
12Stacked AgainstVS 4b
13Standing on the FoxHVS 5a
14KinvigE1 5b
15Front Line Variation (line out)E1 5a *
16Front LineHVS 5a **
17The BakerE2 5c
18Army DreamersHVS 5a **
19Army Dreamers DirectE4 6a *
20Shell ShockVS 4c
21Sharp ShooterE4 5c
22Sharp ShockE2 5b
23Bomb BayVS 4c
24Bomb ScareE4 6a
25Panzer IIHVS 5a
26Descent ChimneyD
27CruiseHVS 5a
28Up Against the WallHVS 5a
29ChieftainVS 4c *
30The ButcherE2 5c **
31Vice is NiceE2 5b *
32But Incest is BestE1 5b *
33GandhiVS 4b
34Calmness is a state o f mindE1 5a
35CenturionS
36The LoosenerHVS 5a *
 TEST CASE AREA 
38Clean Hand Blues BandE2 5c **
39MunchiesHVS 5a
40Let Him Babble OnE4 6a *
41BabbaloniaE4 6a
42DesireE1 5b
43Piggy's CrackE1 5b *
44John WayneE5 6a **
45CharismaE3 6a *
46Head CaseE4 5c
47Test CaseE3 5c ***
48Semaphore SignalsE4 6a *
49Space CadetE3 5c ***
50The Call UpE4 6b *
51In OrbitE5 6b *
52KrakenE1 5b *
 ARROW AREA 
54FlankerVS 4c *
55QuiverE3 5c *
56RicochetE2 5c **
57Poisoned ArrowE4 6a *
58Cupids BowHVS 5a **
59Stupid CupidE5 6a
60The ArrowE1 5b ***
61Flight PathE3 5c *
62The Rising TideE4 6a **
 TACTITION AREA 
64Raw RecruitsE3 5c *
65Get Some InE5 6a ***
66You Got Me Into This!E5 6b **
67Hangover '77E1 5b *
68Still Hungover 2000E2 5b
69War CrimeE2 5b **
70Get Out of That!E4 5c
71No Man's LandE4 5c **
72War GamesE1 5b *
73BlucherE5 6a **
74TacticianHVS 5a **
75DepravedE1 5b
76DerangedE2 5c ***
77A Shot in the DarkE5 6b *
78Draught DodgerE5 6b **
79Shot by Both SidesE5 6b **
80D-DayE2 5c
81Conscientious ObjectorE3 5c ***
82Mission ImpossibleE5 6a
83Fire PowerE3 5c
84Lookout AreteHVS 5a *
85New Lookout AreteE3 5c
86Range RiderE3 5c *
87PhotocallE2 5b
88The AlamoE4 6b *
89Zero HourVS 5b *
90Aural SculptureE2 5b
91NightmareHVS 5a
92blockbusterE2 5b
93Banana DramaE5 6b *
94Tangerine DreamE4 6a ***
95Sentinel cornerHVS 5a
96brighton beachHVS 4c
97Murray's WallE3 5c
 PUBLIC ENEMY AREA 
99GoadHVS 5a
100Wicked GravityE5 6b ***
101EquilibriumE5 6a **
102EquipoiseE5 6a **
103Gorilla ActionE6 6b ***
104JanusE6 6a ***
105SkyraiderE3 5c *
106Lost LeadersE3 5c **
107Teacher's PetE4 6a *
108Face ValueE2 5c **
109The StrangerE3 6a **
110Please SirE5 6a **
111Public EnemyE5 6b ***
112Crime of the CenturyE6 6c ***
113Crime and PunishmentE5 6b **
114The Brothers KaramazovE9 6c
115War and Peace/RaskolnikovE7 6c ***
116Crimes of PassionE6 6b ***
117Stray BulletE5 6a *
118PassionE4 6a **
119Roving EyeE3 5c *
120Solitary ConfinementE3 6a *
121ZodiacE2 5b ***
122HammerheadHVS 4c
123Crab CatcherVS 5a **
124What a ComedownVS 4c
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Stoney by the sea - the worst of the major crags in Pembroke?? Still some of the routes are good...
Fiend - 08/Apr/06