St. Govan's Head

Climbs 156 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features

Fantastic seacliff climbing from mostly non-tidal stances. Includes classics such as Front Line (HVS 5a) and The Arrow (E1 5b). Polished in places though. January 2006: massive rockfall has taken out at least 50 yards of crag for the full height of the cliff, leaving a pile of rubble about 60ft high in places. Routes affected are from somewhere near Wicked Gravity to Crimes of Passion. Access to routes to the right would only be by direct abseil. The rest of St. Govans looks OK. [Steve Quinton]

Approach notes

Most people abseil in from stakes at the top of cliffs. Beware climbers below. Alternative is a descent chimney - not much fun, but less risk to others.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2The candlestick makerE1 5b *36
3SackedE2 5c 2
4Lemming WayS *174
5Lines of ControlVS 9
6Exit CornerVD 140
7Rock-a-BlockE2 5b 12
8SandbaggedVS 4c *138
9Just before DarkHVS 5a 21
10On Wenlock EdgeE4 5c *14
11Rub-a-Dub-DubE2 5c 12
12Stacked AgainstVS 4b 174
13Standing on the FoxHVS 5a 7
14KinvigE1 5b *44
15Front Line Variation (line out)E1 5a *31
16Front LineHVS 5a **576
17The BakerE2 5c 18
19Army DreamersHVS 5a ***1025
20Army Dreamers DirectE4 6a *1
21Shell ShockVS 4c 67
22Sharp ShooterE4 5c 6
23Sharp ShockE2 5b 12
24Bomb BayVS 4c *313
25Bomb ScareE4 6a  
26Panzer IIHVS 5a 134
27Descent ChimneyD 18
28CruiseHVS 5a 4
30Up Against the WallHVS 5a 28
31ChieftainVS 5a *358
32The ButcherE3 5c ***490
33Vice is NiceE2 5b *270
34But Incest is BestE1 5b *257
35GandhiVS 4c 109
36Calmness is a state o f mindE1 5a 2
37CenturionS 4a *265
38The LoosenerHVS 5a *147
40Clean Hand Blues BandE2 5b **458
41MunchiesHVS 5a 63
42Let Him Babble OnE4 6a *18
43BabbaloniaE4 6a  
44DesireE1 5b 16
45Piggy's CrackE1 5b *41
46John WayneE5 6a **63
47CharismaE3 6a *46
48Head CaseE4 5c 1
49Test CaseE3 5c ***236
50Semaphore SignalsE4 6a *4
51Space CadetE3 5c ***248
52The Call UpE4 6b *13
53In OrbitE5 6b * 
54KrakenE1 5b **100
56FlankerVS 4c *176
57QuiverE3 5c *8
58RicochetE2 5c **233
59Poisoned ArrowE4 6a *96
60Broken ArrowE4 6a *1
61Cupids BowHVS 5a **183
62Stupid CupidE5 6a 3
63The ArrowE1 5b ***889
64Flight PathE3 5c *29
65The Rising TideE4 6a **71
67Raw RecruitsE3 5c *37
68Get Some InE5 6a ***120
69You Got Me Into This!E5 6b **3
70Hangover '77E1 5b **186
71Still Hungover 2000E2 5b 23
72War CrimeE2 5b **150
73Get Out of That!E4 5c 9
74No Man's LandE4 5c **38
75War GamesE1 5b **254
76BlucherE5 6a *40
77TacticianHVS 5a **412
79DepravedE2 5c **86
80DerangedE2 5b ***375
81A Shot in the DarkE5 6b *1
82Draught DodgerE5 6b **9
83Shot by Both SidesE5 6b **5
84D-DayE2 5c *23
85Conscientious ObjectorE3 5c 38
86Mission ImpossibleE6 6b  
87Fire PowerE3 5c 7
88Lookout AreteHVS 5a *4
90New Lookout AreteE3 5c *3
91Range RiderE3 5c *41
92PhotocallE2 5b 25
93The AlamoE4 6b * 
94Zero HourHVS 5b *50
95Aural SculptureE2 5b 4
96NightmareHVS 5a 70
97blockbusterE2 5b 1
98Banana DramaE5 6b *1
99Tangerine DreamE4 6a ***140
100Sentinel cornerHVS 5a 10
101brighton beachHVS 4c 2
102Murray's WallE3 5c 9
104GoadHVS 5a 1
105Wicked GravityE5 6b ***7
106EquilibriumE5 6a **3
107EquipoiseE5 6a **1
108Gorilla ActionE6 6b *** 
109JanusE6 6a *** 
110SkyraiderE3 5c *2
111Lost LeadersE3 5c **19
112Teacher's PetE4 6a * 
113Face ValueE2 5c **26
114The StrangerE3 6a **2
115Please SirE5 6a ** 
116Public EnemyE5 6b ***10
117Crime of the CenturyE6 6c *** 
118Crime and PunishmentE5 6b **1
119The Brothers KaramazovE9 6c  
120War and Peace/RaskolnikovE7 6c *** 
121Crimes of PassionE6 6b *** 
122Stray BulletE5 6a *1
123PassionE4 6a **6
124Roving EyeE3 5c *2
125Solitary ConfinementE3 6a *2
126ZodiacE2 5b ***11
127HammerheadHVS 4c 2
128Crab CatcherVS 5a **4
129What a ComedownVS 4c 2
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Stoney by the sea - the worst of the major crags in Pembroke?? Still some of the routes are good...
Fiend - 08/Apr/06