Climbs 204
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 114m a.s.l
Faces NW

Ollie Elms on Almost Me © chrisscutt

Crag features

Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.

Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.

Approach notes

Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.

Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).

Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.

I have put a second hanger on the (formerly single) lower off of both Snaffel Attack and Breast Stroke in a D Cup. Both routes in good condition and contain great boulder problems with decent holds **
alan rosier - 09/Aug/15
Not a place to be wearing shorts if you want to get to the wye sector and tricky to find routes, that said i will be back as lots of quality routes Heady days needs new bolt hanger 2 bolt threads sticking out, i left a mallion in place so people can retreat
jjsk8a - 12/Jul/15
Very large, very loose block behind the tree to the right of (I think) Dabawallah. Gave us a scare, and we ran away quickly. Take care!
Rosi - 20/Jun/15
Bolt hangar missing on Heady Days (3rd from top). Unless you're feeling exceptionally confident, this makes the route unclimbable - you'd be looking at decking on the ledge if you fell from the prow.
whenry - 23/May/15
My first time yesterday at ban y gor. And what a place. Like nothing else I've done in the wye valley. Powerful roof climbing. Took my first fall to. Will be back soon for some more. Brilliant.
luke glaister - 08/Mar/15
don't know what had happened to the crawl buttress rope - removed by someone for reasons unknown. Anyway, we replaced it with a new one this evening. Used the rest to put a knotted rope down the fallen tree-trunk round the corner. This seems very benign at the moment but is horrid to climb up and down after rain!
hms - 24/Jun/14
Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney - 10/Sep/12
Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
alan rosier - 21/Aug/11
The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10
Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10
Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again. Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09
BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
alan rosier - 29/Mar/09
Main Cliff There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition. Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught. Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition. Crawl Buttress A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less ‘death defying’. There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees…?
alan rosier - 27/Mar/09
The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now. Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+. Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition. A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily. There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
alan rosier - 23/Mar/09
Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Mushroom Walls 
2Shaggy Ink Cap
-
D 3
3A Little Stiff'ner
-
6a+ *238
4Slow Macabre Dance
-
6b 108
5We are the Champignons
-
HVS 5a 21
6Phallus Impudicus
-
S 4b 54
7Laccaria Lacata
-
E1 5c 13
8Mushroom Boys
-
HVS 5a 27
9Fly Agaric
-
E1 5b 19
10Shrooms
-
VS 5a 3
11Mycology
-
HS 4b 38
12Days of Mushy Peas
-
E1 5c 5
13The Gruesome Toothsome
-
5a *206
14The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo
-
4a 73
 The Right hand Escarpment 
16Ivy Sep'S 21
17Jah Wobble
-
E3 5c 1
18MammothVS 4c 17
19DinosaurHVS 5a 6
20CitadelHVS 5a 5
21Peter
-
VS 4b 41
22Gonna Write a ClassicHVS 5b *25
23Private LivesE3 6a/b *1
24Discharge6b+ 34
25Nine Lives GoneHVS 5a 8
26Self Preservation
-
HVS 5a *25
27The Unpure
-
7a+ 11
28The Itch you Can Never Scratch5c 3
29The Chubby Brown Syndrome5c *27
30Totally ManningHVS 4c 4
31Mondays Never Rain
-
E2 5c 2
32Squelch
-
HS 4c *33
33Trans-African Drum Battle
-
6c+ 9
34Doyouthinkhesawus
-
6b+ *55
35The Disillusioned Bronto Machine
-
6c+ 18
36Slug Control
-
6b+ 24
37It's a Fluke7a 1
38Day Break4a 14
39Morning Winpenny5a 265
40Duhkha6c *105
41Blabba Mouth7a *53
42East of Sweden6b+ **185
43Nelson Mandela7b **112
44Nelson Mandela Right Wing Connections7c * 
45Sperm Whales6c+ 57
46Spunk Trumpets
-
6c *65
47The Chimney CrusadeHVS 4c 3
48Roof of GoreE2 5c 2
49Join the Union, Jack6b 102
50Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists6c+ *24
51Just Yvonne More6c+ *29
52Stars and Stripes6c **86
53Bad Man From Bodie7a+ *33
54Flat Baps7b *5
55Lotus Wing6b **194
56Dry Day
-
6c *27
57That Historic Reach4a 60
58Laughability6a 18
59You're Having a Laugh?6a 8
60Amuse Bouche4a 17
61I've Got a Bad, Bad Bottom!5c 11
62Double the Fun4a 22
 The Left Hand Escarpment 
64The Toe6a+ 7
65The Tao
-
E2 5c 4
66One Step Ahead of the Blues
-
6c+ *18
67Breaking for SparesVS 4c 5
68Darkside5a ***160
69Summertime BluesE2 5c 4
70The Chepstow Triangle6b 16
71Always The Rain6c *25
72Indian SummerVS 4c 1
73Hurry On SundownVS 4b 2
74Dabbawallah3+ 23
75Full Tidenham Breakfast5a 13
76A Midsummer Night's Garden6a+ *20
77kawronaVS 5a 4
78Tinaderm6b 11
79Trust MeHVS 5a 6
80Ought'n BeHVS 5b 9
81The Royal Thanks5c 3
82Autumnal Dark6b 6
83There's a Lot of It AboutVS 5a 10
84Biscuits Bite Back4a 12
85The Good Friday Agreement6c *66
86Avidya6b+ *20
87Ugooloo6a 158
88Who Is This Man Dukakis
-
6b+ 41
89Josie Swoonpence6b 118
90Les Miserables
-
HVS 5a 9
91Gordonzola6b+ 159
92Alienation6b+ 35
93Block and CrackleHS 4b 4
94Victimization6b *63
95Polarization6a+ 59
96Avatamsaka6b+ *58
97His Master's Voice6c+ *59
98Habit of a Lifetime6c *29
99Up a Gum Tree7a *21
100Utilizing Eucalyptus7a 6
101SoFB Country
-
6c+ *12
102Violation of Trust
-
6b+ *75
103So Gross6b 18
104The Pink Punter5a 29
105Lip Service6b 10
106Crocker's Ash
-
7a+ 1
107Gobbo Wuz Yer'7a 4
108Let's Hear It for Lorenzo6b+ 4
109Take The Wave6a 10
110Genetic EngineeringHVS 5a *16
111Genetically Engineered Super MutantVS 4b *22
112A Liberal Smear6a+ 7
113A Date with David Mellor
-
E1 5b 1
114Raining Stones
-
HVS 5b 1
115Get Them Out by Christmas6b 10
116Nation of Shopkeepers
-
6a+ 18
117The Microwave Man6a+ 7
118The Parallax VisionE2 5c 1
 Crawl Buttress 
120Latest Craze7b+ **48
121Good 'Jab'7a+ *4
122Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit6c+ *25
123Gordonzilla7a+ 1
124Just Too Hot7b **23
125Time was once on my side7c 1
126Too Hot to Touch7b ***25
127B'stard7a+ *30
128The Forest7b 2
129Really Big Sur7c **37
130Frisco Disco
-
7b *9
131Trishna
-
E1 5b 1
132Craters of Mono7a *25
133Breast Stroke In A D Cup7a+ 14
134Snaffel Attack7b *12
135Keep It Short5a 7
136Short and Simple4a 10
137Too Short5a 10
138Short Changed
-
4c 8
 LADDER GULLY 
140Byg BrotherE3 6a 2
141The Fat Controller5c *23
142Such a Big Cactus!4a 14
143The Fatter Controller6a 7
144Merthyr BobE3 5c 3
145The GatesE1 5b 1
146Lordy, Lordy6b 3
147PreciousE2 5c 1
148Who do you Think I Am6a+ *11
149Who do you Think You Are?6c *1
 The Main Cliff 
151Open Head Surgery6c+ *7
152Gimme Back My Head7b **17
153Head Tennis
-
7c+ *1
154Stitch That7b+ **26
155The Drilling Fields7c+ **15
156Almost Me7c ***79
157Hummin' Bird7b+ **28
158Chin Hooks7a *46
159Heady Days6b+ ***198
160Nod if You UnderstandE2 5b  
161Maestro's Wall
-
E4 6b  
162Yellow Taxi
-
E1 5b 2
163Poison Poisson6c 5
164Fresh Fish6c+ 9
165In Apedex
-
7b * 
166The Motley Crew
-
6b+ 19
167Muddy Waters6a **225
168Slow Boat to Chepstow6b+ *12
169Up The Garden Path6b+ *18
170Cocotte7a+ **14
171On The Game
-
E5 6b  
172Pet Cemetery7a ***158
173Aerial Combat7b+ **14
17496 Tiers7c+ *18
175A Gathering of Old Men7a+ **14
176You're My Comic Strip Hero
-
E3 5c  
177Let's Celebrate7a+ *6
178The Beauty of It All
-
7a **33
179GunselE3 6a **2
180After MidnightE3 5c **1
181Tier-Gas7a+ **7
182It's a Sin7a+ **16
183Helter SkelterE2 6a *3
184Baggy Trousers7a *14
185The Correct Use of Soap
-
7a *5
186Lux6b+ *6
187Accuracy
-
6b+ **24
188Another Day
-
HVS 5a 1
189ObjectVS 4c *1
190Costner's Last Stand
-
6c+ 3
191Boys Don't Cry
-
6b+ *13
192No Way Out
-
6b *10
193To Bee or not To Bee
-
E1 5b 2
194In My Hour of Need
-
6b 1
195Home is Where the Heart Is
-
VS 4c  
196Dear Prudence6b 2
197The gnarliest7b+ 3
198Wye're Less6b+ **6
199Wye Not6b+ **3
200Kiss of Death6b+ *3
201If So, Wye6c **3
202Perfect Kiss6b **7
203Wye Me?7a 1
204Wye should I?7a 1
205Wye Bother7b  
206All Ten Mill7a+  
207Save Your Kisses For Me7a+  
208Goodbye Kiss6c+ 2
209Matt
-
HVS 5a 1
210Three Men, Two Girls and a Dog3 2

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