Ban-y-gor

Climbs 203 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.

Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.

Access notes
Crag owned by Gloucester Wildlife Trust. No official permission to climb has been sought or given, so please maintain a low profile. Note that houses above the Main Cliff have gardens that extend right to the edge of the cliff - for this reason development has been restricted voluntarily to the lower tier as to avoid confrontation that could risk access. Please respect this restraint.

Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.

Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).

Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), Wye Valley (2007), Ban-y-Gor (1995), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE MUSHROOM WALLS  
2Shaggy Ink CapD 3
3A Little Stiff'ner6a+ *222
4Slow Macabre Dance6b 101
5We are the ChampignonsHVS 5a 20
6Phallus ImpudicusS 4b 51
7Laccaria LacataE1 5c 14
8Mushroom BoysHVS 5a 25
9Fly AgaricE1 5b 19
10ShroomsVS 5a 2
11MycologyHS 4b 37
12Days of Mushy PeasE1 5c 5
13The Gruesome Toothsome5a *189
14The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo4a 57
 THE RIGHT HAND ESCARPMENT  
16Ivy Sep'S 20
17Jah WobbleE3 5c 1
18MammothVS 4c 17
19DinosaurHVS 5a 6
20CitadelHVS 5a 5
21PeterVS 4b 39
22Gonna Write a ClassicHVS 5b *22
23Private LivesE3 6a/b *1
24Discharge6b+ 32
25Nine Lives GoneHVS 5a 8
26Self PreservationHVS 5a *23
27The Unpure7a+ 10
28The Itch you Can Never Scratch5c 2
29The Chubby Brown Syndrome5c *24
30Totally ManningHVS 4c 4
31Mondays Never RainE2 5c 2
32SquelchHS 4c *34
33Trans-African Drum Battle6c+ 8
34Doyouthinkhesawus6b+ *49
35The Disillusioned Bronto Machine6c+ 15
36Slug Control6b+ 20
37It's a Fluke7a 1
38Day Break4a 9
39Morning Winpenny5a 243
40Duhkha6c *98
41Blabba Mouth7a *49
42East of Sweden6b+ **166
43Nelson Mandela7b **106
44Sperm Whales6c+ 52
45Spunk Trumpets6c *58
46The Chimney CrusadeHVS 4c 2
47Roof of GoreE2 5c 2
48Join the Union, Jack6b 88
49Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists6c+ *19
50Just Yvonne More6c+ *25
51Stars and Stripes6c **76
52Bad Man From Bodie7a+ *30
53Flat Baps7b *4
54Lotus Wing6b **177
55Dry Day6c *26
56That Historic Reach4a 52
57Laughability6a 14
58You're Having a Laugh?6a 5
59Amuse Bouche4a 15
60I've Got a Bad, Bad Bottom!5c 11
61Double the Fun4a 20
 THE LEFT HAND ESCARPMENT  
63The Toe6a+ 7
64The TaoE2 5c 4
65One Step Ahead of the Blues6c+ *17
66Breaking for SparesVS 4c 4
67Darkside5a 147
68Summertime BluesE2 5c 4
69The Chepstow Triangle6b 16
70Always The Rain6c *21
71Indian SummerVS 4c 1
72Hurry On SundownVS 4b 3
73Dabbawallah3+ 15
74Full Tidenham Breakfast5a 4
75A Midsummer Night's Garden6a+ *9
76kawronaVS 5a 2
77Tinaderm6b 8
78Trust MeHVS 5a 4
79Ought'n BeHVS 5b 8
80The Royal Thanks5c  
81Autumnal Dark6b 5
82There's a Lot of It AboutVS 5a 10
83Biscuits Bite Back4a 12
84The Good Friday Agreement6c *63
85Avidya6b+ *20
86Ugooloo6a 142
87Who Is This Man Dukakis6b+ 39
88Josie Swoonpence6b 112
89Les MiserablesHVS 5a 9
90Gordonzola6b+ 149
91Alienation6b+ 32
92Block and CrackleHS 4b 5
93Victimization6b *59
94Polarization6a+ 58
95Avatamsaka6b+ *55
96His Master's Voice6c+ *57
97Habit of a Lifetime6c *29
98Up a Gum Tree7a *20
99Utilizing Eucalyptus7a 6
100SoFB Country6c+ *12
101Violation of Trust6b+ *65
102So Gross6b 12
103The Pink Punter5a 24
104Lip Service6b 7
105Crocker's Ash7a+ 1
106Gobbo Wuz Yer'7a 4
107Let's Hear It for Lorenzo6b+ 4
108Take The Wave6a 10
109Genetic EngineeringHVS 5a *16
110Genetically Engineered Super MutantVS 4b *19
111A Liberal Smear6a+ 5
112A Date with David MellorE1 5b 1
113Raining StonesHVS 5b 1
114Get Them Out by ChristmasE3 6a 6
115Nation of Shopkeepers6a+ 11
116The Microwave ManE1 5b 2
 CRAWL BUTTRESS  
118Latest Craze7b+ **45
119Good 'Jab'7a+ *4
120Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit6c+ *19
121Gordonzilla7a+ 1
122Just Too Hot7b **22
123Time was once on my side7c 1
124Too Hot to Touch7b ***24
125B'stard7a+ *28
126The Forest7b 1
127Really Big Sur7c **28
128Frisco Disco7b *8
129TrishnaE1 5b 1
130Craters of Mono7a *25
131Breast Stroke In A D Cup7a+ 12
132Snaffel Attack7b *8
133Keep It Short5a 6
134Short and Simple4a 9
135Too Short5a 9
136Short Changed4c 8
 LADDER GULLY  
138Byg BrotherE3 6a 2
139The Fat Controller5c *20
140Such a Big Cactus!4a 13
141The Fatter Controller6a 7
142Merthyr BobE3 5c 3
143The GatesE1 5b 1
144Lordy, Lordy6b 3
145PreciousE2 5c 1
146Who do you Think I Am6a+ *10
147Who do you Think You Are?6c *1
 THE MAIN CLIFF  
149Open Head Surgery6c+ *7
150Gimme Back My Head7b **16
151Head Tennis7c+ *1
152Stitch That7c+ **22
153The Drilling Fields7c+ **13
154Almost Me7c ***45
155Hummin' Bird7b+ **21
156Chin Hooks7a *37
157Heady Days6b+ ***153
158Nod if You UnderstandE2 5b  
159Maestro's WallE4 6b  
160Yellow TaxiE1 5b 2
161Poison Poisson6c 5
162Fresh Fish6c+ 8
163In Apedex7b * 
164The Motley Crew6b+ 18
165Muddy Waters6a **183
166Slow Boat to Chepstow6b+ *12
167Up The Garden Path6b+ *16
168Cocotte7a+ **12
169On The GameE5 6b  
170Pet Cemetery7a ***111
171Aerial Combat7b+ **14
17296 Tiers7c+ *15
173A Gathering of Old Men7a+ **10
174You're My Comic Strip HeroE3 5c  
175Let's Celebrate7a+ *6
176The Beauty of It All7a **27
177GunselE3 6a **2
178After MidnightE3 5c **1
179Tier-Gas7a+ **6
180It's a Sin7a+ **15
181Helter SkelterE2 6a *1
182Baggy Trousers7a *12
183The Correct Use of Soap7a *5
184Lux6b+ *6
185Accuracy6b+ **16
186Another DayHVS 5a 1
187ObjectVS 4c *1
188Costner's Last Stand6c+ 3
189Boys Don't Cry6b+ *12
190No Way Out6b *10
191To Bee or not To BeeE1 5b 2
192In My Hour of Need6b 1
193Home is Where the Heart IsVS 4c  
194Dear Prudence6b 2
195The gnarliest7b+ 2
196Wye're Less6b+ **6
197Wye Not6b+ **3
198Kiss of Death6b+ *3
199If So, Wye6c **3
200Perfect Kiss6b **5
201Wye Me?7a 1
202Wye should I?7a 1
203Wye Bother7b  
204All Ten Mill7a+  
205Save Your Kisses For Me7a+  
206Goodbye Kiss6c+ 2
207MattHVS 5a 1
208The Parallax VisionE2 5c 1
209Three Men, Two Girls and a Dog *3 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paul Robertson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Very large, very loose block behind the tree to the right of (I think) Dabawallah. Gave us a scare, and we ran away quickly. Take care!
Rosi - 20/Jun/15
Bolt hangar missing on Heady Days (3rd from top). Unless you're feeling exceptionally confident, this makes the route unclimbable - you'd be looking at decking on the ledge if you fell from the prow.
whenry - 23/May/15
My first time yesterday at ban y gor. And what a place. Like nothing else I've done in the wye valley. Powerful roof climbing. Took my first fall to. Will be back soon for some more. Brilliant.
luke glaister - 08/Mar/15
don't know what had happened to the crawl buttress rope - removed by someone for reasons unknown. Anyway, we replaced it with a new one this evening. Used the rest to put a knotted rope down the fallen tree-trunk round the corner. This seems very benign at the moment but is horrid to climb up and down after rain!
hms - 24/Jun/14
Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney - 10/Sep/12
Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
alan rosier - 21/Aug/11
The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10
Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10
Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again. Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09
BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
alan rosier - 29/Mar/09
Main Cliff There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition. Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught. Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition. Crawl Buttress A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less ‘death defying’. There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees…?
alan rosier - 27/Mar/09
The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now. Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+. Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition. A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily. There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
alan rosier - 23/Mar/09
Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08