Ban-y-gor Gloucestershire, ENGLAND
Climbs 200 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NW
Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.
Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.
Crag owned by Gloucester Wildlife Trust. No official permission to climb has been sought or given, so please maintain a low profile. Note that houses above the Main Cliff have gardens that extend right to the edge of the cliff - for this reason development has been restricted voluntarily to the lower tier as to avoid confrontation that could risk access. Please respect this restraint.
Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.
Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).
Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
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Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley (2007), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Ban-y-Gor (1995)
Climbs at this crag
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paul Robertson
don't know what had happened to the crawl buttress rope - removed by someone for reasons unknown. Anyway, we replaced it with a new one this evening. Used the rest to put a knotted rope down the fallen tree-trunk round the corner. This seems very benign at the moment but is horrid to climb up and down after rain!
hms - 24/Jun/14
Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney - 10/Sep/12
Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
alan rosier - 21/Aug/11
The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10
Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10
Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again.
Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09
BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
alan rosier - 29/Mar/09
There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition.
Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught.
Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition.
A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less ‘death defying’.
There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees…?
alan rosier - 27/Mar/09
The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now.
Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+.
Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition.
A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily.
There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
alan rosier - 23/Mar/09
Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08