Climbs 209
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 114m a.s.l
Faces NW

Ollie Elms on Almost Me © chrisscutt

Crag features

Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.

Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.

Approach notes

Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.

Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).

Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.

I have put a second hanger on the (formerly single) lower off of both Snaffel Attack and Breast Stroke in a D Cup. Both routes in good condition and contain great boulder problems with decent holds **
alan rosier - 09/Aug/15
Not a place to be wearing shorts if you want to get to the wye sector and tricky to find routes, that said i will be back as lots of quality routes Heady days needs new bolt hanger 2 bolt threads sticking out, i left a mallion in place so people can retreat
jjsk8a - 12/Jul/15
Very large, very loose block behind the tree to the right of (I think) Dabawallah. Gave us a scare, and we ran away quickly. Take care!
Rosi - 20/Jun/15
Bolt hangar missing on Heady Days (3rd from top). Unless you're feeling exceptionally confident, this makes the route unclimbable - you'd be looking at decking on the ledge if you fell from the prow.
whenry - 23/May/15
My first time yesterday at ban y gor. And what a place. Like nothing else I've done in the wye valley. Powerful roof climbing. Took my first fall to. Will be back soon for some more. Brilliant.
luke glaister - 08/Mar/15
don't know what had happened to the crawl buttress rope - removed by someone for reasons unknown. Anyway, we replaced it with a new one this evening. Used the rest to put a knotted rope down the fallen tree-trunk round the corner. This seems very benign at the moment but is horrid to climb up and down after rain!
hms - 24/Jun/14
Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney - 10/Sep/12
Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
alan rosier - 21/Aug/11
The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10
Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10
Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again. Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09
BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
alan rosier - 29/Mar/09
Main Cliff There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition. Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught. Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition. Crawl Buttress A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less ‘death defying’. There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees…?
alan rosier - 27/Mar/09
The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now. Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+. Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition. A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily. There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
alan rosier - 23/Mar/09
Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Mushroom Walls 
2Shaggy Ink Cap
D 3
3A Little Stiff'ner
6a+ *266
4Slow Macabre Dance
6b 118
5We are the Champignons
HVS 5a 22
6Phallus Impudicus
S 4b 59
7Laccaria Lacata
E1 5c 14
8Mushroom Boys
HVS 5a 29
9Fly Agaric
E1 5b 21
VS 5a 3
HS 4b 43
12Days of Mushy Peas
E1 5c 5
13The Gruesome Toothsome
5a *240
14The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo
4a 95
 The Right hand Escarpment 
16Ivy Sep'S 23
17ImitatorE4 6b 2
18Jah Wobble
E3 5c 1
19MammothVS 4c 19
20DinosaurHVS 5a 6
21CitadelHVS 5a 5
VS 4b 46
23Gonna Write a ClassicHVS 5b *26
24Private LivesE3 6a/b *1
25Discharge6b+ 37
26Nine Lives GoneHVS 5a 8
27Gordon Rides the Send TrainE4 6a 2
28Self Preservation
HVS 5a *27
29Totally awesomely cool7a 2
30The Unpure
7a+ 11
31The Itch you Can Never Scratch5c 12
32The Chubby Brown Syndrome5c *35
33Totally ManningHVS 4c 4
34Mondays Never Rain
E2 5c 3
HS 4c *38
36Trans-African Drum Battle
6c+ 13
6b+ *65
38The Disillusioned Bronto Machine
6c+ 19
39Slug Control
6b+ 30
40It's a Fluke7a 1
41Day Break4a 18
42Morning Winpenny5a 302
43Duhkha6c *110
44Blabba Mouth7a *58
45East of Sweden6b+ **212
46Nelson Mandela7b **129
47Nelson Mandela Right Wing Connections7c * 
48Sperm Whales6c+ 65
49Spunk Trumpets
6c *73
50The Chimney CrusadeHVS 4c 4
51Roof of GoreE2 5c 3
52Join the Union, Jack6b 111
53Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists6c+ *28
54Just Yvonne More6c+ *33
55Stars and Stripes6c **102
56Bad Man From Bodie7a+ *37
57Flat Baps7b *7
58Lotus Wing6b **230
59Dry Day
6c *28
60That Historic Reach4a 79
61Laughability6a 24
62You're Having a Laugh?6a 16
63Amuse Bouche4a 27
64I've Got a Bad, Bad Bottom!5c 20
65Double the Fun4a 36
 The Left Hand Escarpment 
67The Toe6a+ 9
68The Tao
E2 5c 4
69One Step Ahead of the Blues
6c+ *18
70Breaking for SparesVS 4c 6
71Darkside5a ***197
72Summertime BluesE2 5c 4
73The Chepstow Triangle6b 17
74Always The Rain6c *26
75Indian SummerVS 4c 1
76Hurry On SundownVS 4b 2
77Dabbawallah3+ 34
78Full Tidenham Breakfast5a 18
79A Midsummer Night's Garden6a+ *30
80kawronaVS 5a 4
81Tinaderm6b 16
82Trust MeHVS 5a 6
83Ought'n BeHVS 5b 9
84The Royal Thanks5c 11
85Autumnal Dark6b 7
86There's a Lot of It AboutVS 5a 13
87Biscuits Bite Back4a 17
88The Good Friday Agreement6c *74
89Avidya6b+ *23
90Ugooloo6a 181
91Who Is This Man Dukakis
6b+ 45
92Josie Swoonpence6b 127
93Les Miserables
HVS 5a 10
94Gordonzola6b+ 175
95Alienation6b+ 39
96Block and CrackleHS 4b 5
97Victimization6b *70
98Polarization6a+ 67
99Avatamsaka6b+ *64
100His Master's Voice6c+ *70
101Habit of a Lifetime6c *33
102Up a Gum Tree7a *22
103Utilizing Eucalyptus7a 6
104SoFB Country
6c+ *13
105Violation of Trust
6b+ *81
106So Gross6b 18
107The Pink Punter5a 38
108Lip Service6b 12
109Crocker's Ash
7a+ 2
110Gobbo Wuz Yer'7a 4
111Let's Hear It for Lorenzo6b+ 7
112Take The Wave6a 13
113Genetic EngineeringHVS 5a *17
114Genetically Engineered Super MutantVS 4b *27
115A Liberal Smear6a+ 8
116A Date with David Mellor
E1 5b 2
117Raining Stones
HVS 5b 1
118Get Them Out by Christmas6b 12
119Nation of Shopkeepers
6a+ 23
120The Microwave Man6a+ 10
121The Parallax VisionE2 5c 1
 Crawl Buttress 
123Latest Craze7b+ **60
124Good 'Jab'7a+ *4
125Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit6c+ *28
126Gordonzilla7a+ 2
127Just Too Hot7b **26
128Time was once on my side7c 4
129Too Hot to Touch7b ***47
130B'stard7a+ *37
131The Forest7b 2
132Really Big Sur7c **48
133Frisco Disco
7b *16
E1 5b 1
135Craters of Mono7a *34
136Breast Stroke In A D Cup7a+ 21
137Snaffel Attack7b *19
138Keep It Short5a 8
139Short and Simple4a 12
140Too Short5a 13
141Short Changed
4c 9
143Byg BrotherE3 6a 2
144The Fat Controller5c *32
145Such a Big Cactus!4a 20
146The Fatter Controller6a 10
147Merthyr BobE3 5c 3
148The GatesE1 5b 2
149Lordy, Lordy6b 3
150PreciousE2 5c 2
151Who do you Think I Am6a+ *12
152Who do you Think You Are?6c *2
 The Main Cliff 
154Open Head Surgery6c+ *8
155Gimme Back My Head
7b **30
156Head Tennis
7c+ *3
157Stitch That7b+ **40
158The Drilling Fields7c+ **28
159Archaeopteryx 7b **2
160Almost Me7c ***118
161Hummin' Bird7b+ **46
162Chin Hooks7a *57
163Heady Days6b+ ***237
164Nod if You UnderstandE2 5b  
165Maestro's Wall
E4 6b  
166Yellow Taxi
E1 5b 2
167Poison Poisson6c 6
168Fresh Fish6c+ 10
169In Apedex
7b * 
170The Motley Crew
6b+ 23
171Muddy Waters
6a **261
172Slow Boat to Chepstow6b+ *13
173Up The Garden Path6b+ *19
174Cocotte7a+ **20
175On The Game
E5 6b  
176Pet Cemetery7a ***186
177Aerial Combat7b+ **34
17896 Tiers7c+ *24
179A Gathering of Old Men7a+ **26
180You're My Comic Strip Hero
E3 5c  
181Let's Celebrate7a+ *18
182The Beauty of It All
7a **45
183GunselE3 6a **2
184After MidnightE3 5c **1
185Tier-Gas7a+ **11
186It's a Sin7a+ **35
187Helter SkelterE2 6a *3
188Baggy Trousers7a *25
189The Correct Use of Soap
7a *11
190Lux6b+ *9
6b+ **31
192Another Day
HVS 5a 1
193ObjectVS 4c *1
194Costner's Last Stand
6c+ 4
195Boys Don't Cry
6b+ *15
196No Way Out
6b *11
197To Bee or not To Bee
E1 5b 3
198In My Hour of Need
6b 2
199Home is Where the Heart Is
VS 4c  
200Dear Prudence6b 2
201The gnarliest7b+ 4
202Wye're Less6b+ **10
203Wye Not6b+ **7
204Kiss of Death6b+ *4
205No chanceE3 6a 1
206If So, Wye6c **4
207Perfect Kiss6b **8
208Wye Me?7a 2
209Wye should I?7a 2
210Wye Bother7b  
211All Ten Mill7a+  
212Save Your Kisses For Me7a+  
213Goodbye Kiss6c+ 3
HVS 5a 1
215Three Men, Two Girls and a Dog3 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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