> Home <
> Forums <
> Logbooks <
> News <
> Photos <
> Articles <
> Gear <
- Latest Gear
- Gear News
- Gear Reviews
- OI News
- HELP
> Video <
> Classifieds <
> Search <

Search site:

Logbooks & Crags

Click to read about Advertising on UKC

Search results... 1 crag found

[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref ST 543968 (OS Landranger #162)

Ban-y-gor

Gloucestershire, ENGLAND

Climbs 200 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.

Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.

Weather forecast

Today	Mon	Tue	Wed	Thu

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Wye Valley (2007), Ban-y-Gor (1995), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	THE MUSHROOM WALLS
2	Shaggy Ink Cap	D	3
3	A Little Stiff'ner	6a+ *	141
4	Slow Macabre Dance	6b	69
5	We are the Champignons	HVS 5a	18
6	Phallus Impudicus	S 4b	39
7	Laccaria Lacata	E1 5c	11
8	Mushroom Boys	HVS 5a	17
9	Fly Agaric	E1 5b	15
10	Shrooms	VS 5a	2
11	Mycology	HS 4b	29
12	Days of Mushy Peas	E1 5c	5
13	The Gruesome Toothsome	5 *	108
	THE RIGHT HAND ESCARPMENT
15	Ivy Sep'	S	11
16	Mammoth	VS 4c	13
17	Dinosaur	HVS 5a	4
18	Citadel	HVS 5a	5
19	Peter	VS 4b	26
20	Gonna Write a Classic	HVS 5b *	14
21	Discharge	6b+	26
22	Nine Lives Gone	HVS 5a	3
23	Self Preservation	HVS 5a *	12
24	The Unpure	7a+	4
25	The Chubby Brown Syndrome	5+ *	8
26	Totally Manning	HVS 4c	2
27	Mondays Never Rain	E2 5c	2
28	Squelch	HS 4c *	28
29	Trans-African Drum Battle	6c+	6
30	Doyouthinkhesawus	6b+ *	42
31	The Disillusioned Bronto Machine	6c+	11
32	Slug Control	6b+	12
33	It's a Fluke	7a
34	Morning Winpenny	5	151
35	Duhkha	6c *	60
36	Blabba Mouth	7a *	23
37	East of Sweden	6b+ **	96
38	Nelson Mandela	7b **	68
39	Sperm Whales	6c+	37
40	Spunk Trumpets	6c *	43
41	The Chimney Crusade	HVS 4c	2
42	Roof of Gore	E2 5c	2
43	Join the Union, Jack	6b	58
44	Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists	6c+ *	10
45	Just Yvonne More	6c+ *	21
46	Stars and Stripes	6c **	47
47	Bad Man From Bodie	7a+ *	15
48	Flat Baps	7b *	3
49	Lotus Wing	6b **	109
50	Dry Day	6c *	12
51	That Historic Reach	4	34
52	Laughability	6a	6
53	Amuse Bouche	4	6
54	Double the Fun	4	8
	THE LEFT HAND ESCARPMENT
56	The Toe	6a+	5
57	The Tao	E2 5c	1
58	One Step Ahead of the Blues	6c+ *	9
59	Darkside	5	84
60	Summertime Blues	E2 5c	2
61	The Chepstow Triangle	6b	11
62	Always The Rain	6c *	14
63	Indian Summer	VS 4c
64	kawrona	VS 5a	2
65	Trust Me	HVS 5a	3
66	Ought'n Be	HVS 5b	5
67	Autumnal Dark	6b	2
68	There's a Lot of It About	VS 5a	5
69	Biscuits Bite Back	4	4
70	The Good Friday Agreement	6c *	41
71	Avidya	6b+ *	11
72	Ugooloo	6a	86
73	Who Is This Man Dukakis	6b+	27
74	Josie Swoonpence	6b	77
75	Les Miserables	HVS 5a	7
76	Gordonzola	6b+	93
77	Alienation	6b+	29
78	Block and Crackle	HS 4b	4
79	Victimization	6b *	46
80	Polarization	6a+	48
81	Avatamsaka	6b+ *	44
82	His Master's Voice	6c+ *	44
83	Habit of a Lifetime	6c *	23
84	Up a Gum Tree	7a *	13
85	Utilizing Eucalyptus	7a	5
86	SoFB Country	6c+ *	10
87	Violation of Trust	6b+ *	48
88	So Gross	6b	6
89	The Pink Punter	5	5
90	Lip Service	6b	2
91	Crocker's Ash	7a+
92	Gobbo Wuz Yer'	7a	4
93	Let's Hear It for Lorenzo	6b+	4
94	Take The Wave	6a	6
95	Genetic Engineering	HVS 5a *	9
96	Genetically Engineered Super Mutant	VS 4b *	11

	Climb name	Grade	x

97	A Liberal Smear	6a+	3
98	A Date with David Mellor	E1 5b	1
99	Raining Stones	HVS 5b	1
100	Get Them Out by Christmas	E3 6a	4
101	Nation of Shopkeepers	6a+	8
102	The Microwave Man	E1 5b	2
	CRAWL BUTTRESS
104	Latest Craze	7b+ **	31
105	Good 'Jab'	7a+ *	2
106	Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit	6c+ *	13
107	Gordonzilla	7a+	1
108	Just Too Hot	7b **	12
109	Too Hot to Touch	7b ***	17
110	B'stard	7a+ *	22
111	The Forest	7b	1
112	Really Big Sur	7c **	19
113	Frisco Disco	7b *	6
114	Craters of Mono	7a *	19
115	Breast Stroke In A D Cup	7a+	10
116	Snaffel Attack	7b *	7
117	Keep It Short	5	2
118	Short and Simple	4	2
119	Too Short	5	2
120	Short Changed	4+	2
	LADDER GULLY
122	Byg Brother	E3 6a	2
123	The Fat Controller	5+ *	7
124	Such a Big Cactus!	4	4
125	The Fatter Controller	6a	3
126	Merthyr Bob	E3 5c	3
127	The Gates	E1 5b	1
128	Lordy, Lordy	6b	3
129	Precious	E2 5c	1
130	Who do you Think I Am	6a+ *	8
131	Who do you Think You Are?	6c *	1
	THE MAIN CLIFF
133	Open Head Surgery	6c+ *	6
134	Gimme Back My Head	7b **	9
135	Head Tennis	7c+ *	1
136	Stitch That	7c+ **	14
137	The Drilling Fields	7c+ **	8
138	Almost Me	7c ***	20
139	Hummin' Bird	7b+ **	15
140	Chin Hooks	7a *	12
141	Heady Days	6b+ ***	90
142	Nod if You Understand	E2 5b
143	Maestro's Wall	E4 6b
144	Yellow Taxi	E1 5b	2
145	Poison Poisson	6c	2
146	Fresh Fish	6c+	4
147	In Apedex	7b *
148	The Motley Crew	6b+	9
149	Muddy Waters	6a **	106
150	Slow Boat to Chepstow	6b+ *	10
151	Up The Garden Path	6b+ *	13
152	Cocotte	7a+ **	12
153	On The Game	E5 6b
154	Pet Cemetery	7a ***	54
155	Aerial Combat	7b+ **	8
156	96 Tiers	7c+ *	5
157	A Gathering of Old Men	7a+ **	5
158	You're My Comic Strip Hero	E3 5c
159	Let's Celebrate	7a+ *	4
160	The Beauty of It All	7a **	19
161	Gunsel	E3 6a **	2
162	After Midnight	E3 5c **	1
163	Tier-Gas	7a+ **	3
164	It's a Sin	7a+ **	11
165	Helter Skelter	E2 6a *	1
166	Baggy Trousers	7a *	11
167	The Correct Use of Soap	7a *	5
168	Lux	6b+ *	6
169	Accuracy	6b+ **	13
170	Another Day	HVS 5a	1
171	Object	VS 4c *	1
172	Costner's Last Stand	6c+	3
173	Boys Don't Cry	6b+ *	10
174	No Way Out	6b *	10
175	To Bee or not To Bee	E1 5b	1
176	In My Hour of Need	6b	1
177	Home is Where the Heart Is	VS 4c
178	Dear Prudence	6b	2
179	The gnarliest	7b+	2
180	Wye're Less	6b+ **	4
181	Wye Not	6b+ **	3
182	Kiss of Death	6b+ *	3
183	If So, Wye	6c **	3
184	Perfect Kiss	6b **	3
185	Wye Me?	7a	1
186	Wye should I?	7a	1
187	Wye Bother	7b
188	All Ten Mill	7a+
189	Save Your Kisses For Me	7a+
190	Goodbye Kiss	6c+	2
191	The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo	4	2

Ellis Brigham Mountain Sports
Bristol, AVON
www.ellis-brigham.com

Advertise here

Access notes
Crag owned by Gloucester Wildlife Trust. No official permission to climb has been sought or given, so please maintain a low profile. Note that houses above the Main Cliff have gardens that extend right to the edge of the cliff - for this reason development has been restricted voluntarily to the lower tier as to avoid confrontation that could risk access. Please respect this restraint.

Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.

Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).

Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paul Robertson

USER FEEDBACK

Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney

- 10/Sep/12

Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
alan rosier - 21/Aug/11

The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10

Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10

Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again. Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09

BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
alan rosier - 29/Mar/09

Main Cliff There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition. Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught. Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition. Crawl Buttress A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less �death defying�. There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees�?
alan rosier - 27/Mar/09

The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now. Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+. Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition. A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily. There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
alan rosier - 23/Mar/09

Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08

USER PHOTO GALLERY
Click to View all 18 photos of Ban-y-gor. You can Upload your photos of this crag