Climbs 200 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.

Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.

Access notes
Crag owned by Gloucester Wildlife Trust. No official permission to climb has been sought or given, so please maintain a low profile. Note that houses above the Main Cliff have gardens that extend right to the edge of the cliff - for this reason development has been restricted voluntarily to the lower tier as to avoid confrontation that could risk access. Please respect this restraint.

Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.

Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).

Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), Wye Valley (2007), Ban-y-Gor (1995), (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2Shaggy Ink CapD
3A Little Stiff'ner6a+ *
4Slow Macabre Dance6b
5We are the ChampignonsHVS 5a
6Phallus ImpudicusS 4b
7Laccaria LacataE1 5c
8Mushroom BoysHVS 5a
9Fly AgaricE1 5b
10ShroomsVS 5a
11MycologyHS 4b
12Days of Mushy PeasE1 5c
13The Gruesome Toothsome5a *
14The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo4a
16Ivy Sep'S
17Jah WobbleE3 5c
18MammothVS 4c
19DinosaurHVS 5a
20CitadelHVS 5a
21PeterVS 4b
22Gonna Write a ClassicHVS 5b *
23Private LivesE3 6a/b *
25Nine Lives GoneHVS 5a
26Self PreservationHVS 5a *
27The Unpure7a+
28The Chubby Brown Syndrome5c *
29Totally ManningHVS 4c
30Mondays Never RainE2 5c
31SquelchHS 4c *
32Trans-African Drum Battle6c+
33Doyouthinkhesawus6b+ *
34The Disillusioned Bronto Machine6c+
35Slug Control6b+
36It's a Fluke7a
37Day Break4a
38Morning Winpenny5a
39Duhkha6c *
40Blabba Mouth7a *
41East of Sweden6b+ **
42Nelson Mandela7b **
43Sperm Whales6c+
44Spunk Trumpets6c *
45The Chimney CrusadeHVS 4c
46Roof of GoreE2 5c
47Join the Union, Jack6b
48Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists6c+ *
49Just Yvonne More6c+ *
50Stars and Stripes6c **
51Bad Man From Bodie7a+ *
52Flat Baps7b *
53Lotus Wing6b **
54Dry Day6c *
55That Historic Reach4a
57You're Having a Laugh?6a
58Amuse Bouche4a
59I've Got a Bad, Bad Bottom!5c
60Double the Fun4a
62The Toe6a+
63The TaoE2 5c
64One Step Ahead of the Blues6c+ *
65Breaking for SparesVS 4c
67Summertime BluesE2 5c
68The Chepstow Triangle6b
69Always The Rain6c *
70Indian SummerVS 4c
71Hurry On SundownVS 4b
73Full Tidenham Breakfast5a
74A Midsummer Night's Garden6a+ *
75kawronaVS 5a
77Trust MeHVS 5a
78Ought'n BeHVS 5b
79The Royal Thanks5c
80Autumnal Dark6b
81There's a Lot of It AboutVS 5a
82Biscuits Bite Back4a
83The Good Friday Agreement6c *
84Avidya6b+ *
86Who Is This Man Dukakis6b+
87Josie Swoonpence6b
88Les MiserablesHVS 5a
91Block and CrackleHS 4b
92Victimization6b *
94Avatamsaka6b+ *
95His Master's Voice6c+ *
96Habit of a Lifetime6c *
97Up a Gum Tree7a *
98Utilizing Eucalyptus7a
99SoFB Country6c+ *
100Violation of Trust6b+ *
101So Gross6b
102The Pink Punter5a
103Lip Service6b
104Crocker's Ash7a+
105Gobbo Wuz Yer'7a
106Let's Hear It for Lorenzo6b+
107Take The Wave6a
108Genetic EngineeringHVS 5a *
109Genetically Engineered Super MutantVS 4b *
110A Liberal Smear6a+
111A Date with David MellorE1 5b
112Raining StonesHVS 5b
113Get Them Out by ChristmasE3 6a
114Nation of Shopkeepers6a+
115The Microwave ManE1 5b
117Latest Craze7b+ **
118Good 'Jab'7a+ *
119Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit6c+ *
121Just Too Hot7b **
122Too Hot to Touch7b ***
123B'stard7a+ *
124The Forest7b
125Really Big Sur7c **
126Frisco Disco7b *
127TrishnaE1 5b
128Craters of Mono7a *
129Breast Stroke In A D Cup7a+
130Snaffel Attack7b *
131Keep It Short5a
132Short and Simple4a
133Too Short5a
134Short Changed4c
136Byg BrotherE3 6a
137The Fat Controller5c *
138Such a Big Cactus!4a
139The Fatter Controller6a
140Merthyr BobE3 5c
141The GatesE1 5b
142Lordy, Lordy6b
143PreciousE2 5c
144Who do you Think I Am6a+ *
145Who do you Think You Are?6c *
147Open Head Surgery6c+ *
148Gimme Back My Head7b **
149Head Tennis7c+ *
150Stitch That7c+ **
151The Drilling Fields7c+ **
152Almost Me7c ***
153Hummin' Bird7b+ **
154Chin Hooks7a *
155Heady Days6b+ ***
156Nod if You UnderstandE2 5b
157Maestro's WallE4 6b
158Yellow TaxiE1 5b
159Poison Poisson6c
160Fresh Fish6c+
161In Apedex7b *
162The Motley Crew6b+
163Muddy Waters6a **
164Slow Boat to Chepstow6b+ *
165Up The Garden Path6b+ *
166Cocotte7a+ **
167On The GameE5 6b
168Pet Cemetery7a ***
169Aerial Combat7b+ **
17096 Tiers7c+ *
171A Gathering of Old Men7a+ **
172You're My Comic Strip HeroE3 5c
173Let's Celebrate7a+ *
174The Beauty of It All7a **
175GunselE3 6a **
176After MidnightE3 5c **
177Tier-Gas7a+ **
178It's a Sin7a+ **
179Helter SkelterE2 6a *
180Baggy Trousers7a *
181The Correct Use of Soap7a *
182Lux6b+ *
183Accuracy6b+ **
184Another DayHVS 5a
185ObjectVS 4c *
186Costner's Last Stand6c+
187Boys Don't Cry6b+ *
188No Way Out6b *
189To Bee or not To BeeE1 5b
190In My Hour of Need6b
191Home is Where the Heart IsVS 4c
192Dear Prudence6b
193The gnarliest7b+
194Wye're Less6b+ **
195Wye Not6b+ **
196Kiss of Death6b+ *
197If So, Wye6c **
198Perfect Kiss6b **
199Wye Me?7a
200Wye should I?7a
201Wye Bother7b
202All Ten Mill7a+
203Save Your Kisses For Me7a+
204Goodbye Kiss6c+
205MattHVS 5a
206The Itch you Can Never Scratch *5c
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paul Robertson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
don't know what had happened to the crawl buttress rope - removed by someone for reasons unknown. Anyway, we replaced it with a new one this evening. Used the rest to put a knotted rope down the fallen tree-trunk round the corner. This seems very benign at the moment but is horrid to climb up and down after rain!
hms - 24/Jun/14
Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney - 10/Sep/12
Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
alan rosier - 21/Aug/11
The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10
Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10
Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again. Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09
BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
alan rosier - 29/Mar/09
Main Cliff There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition. Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught. Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition. Crawl Buttress A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less ‘death defying’. There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees…?
alan rosier - 27/Mar/09
The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now. Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+. Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition. A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily. There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
alan rosier - 23/Mar/09
Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 10/Feb/2007

Photo Gallery


Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Bristol, AVON
Dedicated centre.
"750+ square metres of beautifully sculptured bouldering surface with 200+ problems in font style circuits, plus 3 different angled training boards and campus board. Great cafe area with..."