Climbs 224
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 114m a.s.l
Faces NW

Ollie Elms on Almost Me © chrisscutt

Crag features

Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.

Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.

Approach notes

Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.

Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).

Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.

I have put a second hanger on the (formerly single) lower off of both Snaffel Attack and Breast Stroke in a D Cup. Both routes in good condition and contain great boulder problems with decent holds **
alan rosier - 09/Aug/15
Not a place to be wearing shorts if you want to get to the wye sector and tricky to find routes, that said i will be back as lots of quality routes Heady days needs new bolt hanger 2 bolt threads sticking out, i left a mallion in place so people can retreat
jjsk8a - 12/Jul/15
Very large, very loose block behind the tree to the right of (I think) Dabawallah. Gave us a scare, and we ran away quickly. Take care!
Rosi - 20/Jun/15
Bolt hangar missing on Heady Days (3rd from top). Unless you're feeling exceptionally confident, this makes the route unclimbable - you'd be looking at decking on the ledge if you fell from the prow.
whenry - 23/May/15
My first time yesterday at ban y gor. And what a place. Like nothing else I've done in the wye valley. Powerful roof climbing. Took my first fall to. Will be back soon for some more. Brilliant.
luke glaister - 08/Mar/15
don't know what had happened to the crawl buttress rope - removed by someone for reasons unknown. Anyway, we replaced it with a new one this evening. Used the rest to put a knotted rope down the fallen tree-trunk round the corner. This seems very benign at the moment but is horrid to climb up and down after rain!
hms - 24/Jun/14
Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney - 10/Sep/12
Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
alan rosier - 21/Aug/11
The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10
Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10
Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again. Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09
BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
alan rosier - 29/Mar/09
Main Cliff There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition. Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught. Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition. Crawl Buttress A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less ‘death defying’. There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees…?
alan rosier - 27/Mar/09
The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now. Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+. Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition. A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily. There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
alan rosier - 23/Mar/09
Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Mushroom Walls 
2Shaggy Ink Cap
-
D 3
3A Little Stiff'ner
-
6a+ *268
4Slow Macabre Dance
-
6b 119
5We are the Champignons
-
HVS 5a 24
6Phallus Impudicus
-
S 4b 63
7Laccaria Lacata
-
E1 5c 15
8Mushroom Boys
-
HVS 5a 33
9Fly Agaric
-
E1 5b 21
10Shrooms
-
VS 5a 3
11Mycology
-
HS 4b 46
12Days of Mushy Peas
-
E1 5c 6
13The Gruesome Toothsome
-
5a *248
14The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo
-
4a 105
 The Right hand Escarpment 
16Ivy Sep'S 23
17Nine lives areteHS 4b 1
18ImitatorE4 6b 2
19Jah Wobble
-
E3 5c 2
20MammothVS 4c 19
21DinosaurHVS 5a 6
22CitadelHVS 5a 5
23Peter
-
VS 4b 47
24Matt
-
HVS 5a 1
25Gonna Write a ClassicHVS 5b *26
26Private LivesE3 6a/b *1
27Discharge6b+ 37
28Nine Lives GoneHVS 5a 8
29Gordon Rides the Send TrainE4 6a 2
30Self Preservation
-
HVS 5a *29
31Totally awesomely cool7a 2
32The Unpure
-
7a+ 11
33The Itch you Can Never Scratch5c 15
34The Chubby Brown Syndrome5c *39
35Totally ManningHVS 4c 4
36Mondays Never Rain
-
E2 5c 3
37Squelch
-
HS 4c *40
38Trans-African Drum Battle
-
6c+ 13
39Doyouthinkhesawus
-
6b+ *67
40The Disillusioned Bronto Machine
-
6c+ 19
41Slug Control
-
6b+ 32
42It's a Fluke7a 1
43Day Break4a 22
44Morning Winpenny5a 314
45Duhkha6c *113
46Blabba Mouth7a *59
47East of Sweden6b+ **222
48Nelson Mandela7b **133
49Nelson Mandela Right Wing Connections7c * 
50Sperm Whales6c+ 65
51Spunk Trumpets
-
6c *74
52The Chimney CrusadeHVS 4c 4
53Roof of GoreE2 5c 3
54Join the Union, Jack6b 111
55Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists6c+ *29
56Just Yvonne More6c+ *34
57Stars and Stripes6c **105
58Bad Man From Bodie7a+ *38
59Flat Baps7b *7
60Lotus Wing6b **238
61Dry Day
-
6c *28
62That Historic Reach4a 83
63Laughability6a 28
64You're Having a Laugh?6a 21
65Amuse Bouche4a 35
66I've Got a Bad, Bad Bottom!5c 26
67Double the Fun4a 36
 The Left Hand Escarpment 
69The Toe6a+ 9
70The Tao
-
E2 5c 4
71One Step Ahead of the Blues
-
6c+ *19
72Breaking for SparesVS 4c 7
73Darkside5a ***208
74Summertime BluesE2 5c 4
75The Chepstow Triangle6b 18
76Always The Rain6c *26
77Indian SummerVS 4c 1
78Hurry On SundownVS 4b 2
79Dabbawallah3+ 39
80Full Tidenham Breakfast5a 19
81A Midsummer Night's Garden6a+ *30
82kawronaVS 5a 4
83Tinaderm6b 17
84Trust MeHVS 5a 6
85Ought'n BeHVS 5b 9
86The Royal Thanks5c 11
87Autumnal Dark6b 8
88There's a Lot of It AboutVS 5a 15
89Biscuits Bite Back4a 18
90The Good Friday Agreement6c *74
91Avidya6b+ *23
92Ugooloo6a 184
93Who Is This Man Dukakis
-
6b+ 48
94Josie Swoonpence6b 130
95Les Miserables
-
HVS 5a 10
96Gordonzola6b+ 179
97Alienation6b+ 40
98Block and CrackleHS 4b 5
99Victimization6b *73
100Polarization6a+ 71
101Avatamsaka6b+ *66
102His Master's Voice6c+ *72
103Habit of a Lifetime6c *34
104Up a Gum Tree7a *22
105Utilizing Eucalyptus7a 6
106SoFB Country
-
6c+ *13
107Violation of Trust
-
6b+ *86
108So Gross6b 20
109The Pink Punter5a 41
110Lip Service6b 12
111Crocker's Ash
-
7a+ 2
112Gobbo Wuz Yer'7a 8
113Let's Hear It for Lorenzo6b+ 9
114Take The Wave6a 14
115Genetic EngineeringHVS 5a *17
116Genetically Engineered Super MutantVS 4b *27
117A Liberal Smear6a+ 9
118A Date with David Mellor
-
E1 5b 2
119Raining Stones
-
HVS 5b 1
120Get Them Out by Christmas6b 13
121Nation of Shopkeepers
-
6a+ 23
122The Microwave Man6a+ 10
123The Parallax VisionE2 5c 1
 Crawl Buttress 
125Dear Prudence6b 2
126Latest Craze7b+ **64
127Good 'Jab'7a+ *5
128Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit6c+ *28
129Gordonzilla7a+ 2
130Just Too Hot7b **36
131Time was once on my side7c 5
132Too Hot to Touch7b ***52
133B'stard7a+ *40
134The Forest7b 2
135Really Big Sur7c **49
136Frisco Disco
-
7b *16
137Trishna
-
E1 5b 1
138Craters of Mono7a *34
139Breast Stroke In A D Cup7a+ 21
140Snaffel Attack7b *20
141The gnarliest7b+ 5
142Keep It Short5a 11
143Short and Simple4a 16
144Too Short5a 16
145Short Changed
-
4c 12
 LADDER GULLY 
147Byg BrotherE3 6a 2
148The Fat Controller5c *34
149Such a Big Cactus!4a 23
150The Fatter Controller6a 10
151Three Men, Two Girls and a Dog3 5
152Merthyr BobE3 5c 3
153The GatesE1 5b 2
154Lordy, Lordy6b 3
155PreciousE2 5c 2
156Who do you Think I Am6a+ *12
157Who do you Think You Are?6c *2
 The Main Cliff 
159Open Head Surgery
-
6c+ *12
160Gimme Back My Head
-
7b **34
161Head Tennis
-
7c+ *5
162Stitch That7b+ **49
163The Drilling Fields7c+ **33
164Archaeopteryx7b **3
165Almost Me7c ***133
166Hummin' Bird7b+ **48
167Chin Hooks
-
7a *60
168Heady Days
-
6b+ ***253
169Nod if You UnderstandE2 5b  
170Maestro's Wall
-
E4 6b  
171Yellow Taxi
-
E1 5b 2
172Poison Poisson6c 6
173Fresh Fish
-
6c+ 10
174In Apedex
-
7b * 
175The Motley Crew
-
6b+ 23
176Muddy Waters
-
6a **272
177Slow Boat to Chepstow
-
6b+ *14
178Up The Garden Path
-
6b+ *19
179Cocotte
-
7a+ **22
180On The Game
-
E5 6b  
181Pet Cemetery7a ***198
182Aerial Combat
-
7b+ **39
18396 Tiers
-
7c+ *27
184A Gathering of Old Men7a+ **29
185You're My Comic Strip Hero
-
E3 5c  
186Let's Celebrate
-
7a+ *21
187The Beauty of It All
-
7a **47
188Gunsel
-
E3 6a **2
189After Midnight
-
E3 5c **1
190Tier-Gas
-
7a+ **13
191It's a Sin
-
7a+ **41
192Helter Skelter
-
E2 6a *3
193Baggy Trousers
-
7a *26
194The Correct Use of Soap
-
7a *11
195Lux
-
6b+ *9
196Accuracy
-
6b+ **36
197Another Day
-
HVS 5a 1
198ObjectVS 4c *1
199Costner's Last Stand
-
6c+ 5
200Boys Don't Cry
-
6b+ *15
201No Way Out
-
6b *11
202To Bee or not To Bee
-
E1 5b 3
203In My Hour of Need
-
6b 2
204Home is Where the Heart Is
-
VS 4c  
205Barbaracue
-
E5 6a  
206Wye Don't You Just......6c * 
207Wye're Less
-
6b+ **10
208Wye Not
-
6b+ **7
209Wye Me?7a 2
210Wye should I?
-
7a 2
211Wye Bother
-
7b  
212If So, Wye6c **4
213All Ten Mill
-
7a+  
214Save Your Kisses For Me
-
7a+ ** 
215Kiss of Death6b+ *4
216Goodbye Kiss6c+ 3
217Perfect Kiss
-
6b **8
 MAIN CLIFF CONTINUATION 
219Faithful Couple
-
E3 5c  
220Slave To The Cave
-
E2 6a  
221Which Poison?
-
E3 5c  
222What Presence?
-
E4 6b  
223No chanceE3 6a 1
224Some Chance
-
E4 6b  
225Sausage Dog
-
E3 5c * 
226Pocket Tarantula
-
E2 5c  
227Goebbels, Moseley, God and Ingrams
-
E4 5c  
228There You Go AgainE4 6a * 
229Snake Flake
-
E2 5c  
230Free The Radicals
-
E3 5b  
231Mouchette
-
E3 6a * 

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