Search results... 1 crag found
View larger mapGrid Ref ST 543968 (OS Landranger #162)

Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 10/Feb/2007


Gloucestershire, ENGLAND

Climbs 200 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.

Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.0mm rain
10 °C
15 kph

0.1mm rain
10 °C
20 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
8 °C
17 kph

0.2mm rain
Sunny periods
9 °C
16 kph

8.6mm rain
Mainly cloudy
10 °C
23 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley (2007), Ban-y-Gor (1995), (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2Shaggy Ink CapD 3
3A Little Stiff'ner6a+ *178
4Slow Macabre Dance6b 87
5We are the ChampignonsHVS 5a 19
6Phallus ImpudicusS 4b 48
7Laccaria LacataE1 5c 13
8Mushroom BoysHVS 5a 19
9Fly AgaricE1 5b 18
10ShroomsVS 5a 2
11MycologyHS 4b 33
12Days of Mushy PeasE1 5c 5
13The Gruesome Toothsome5 *146
14The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo4 28
16Ivy Sep'S 16
17Jah WobbleE3 5c 1
18MammothVS 4c 15
19DinosaurHVS 5a 6
20CitadelHVS 5a 5
21PeterVS 4b 33
22Gonna Write a ClassicHVS 5b *15
23Discharge6b+ 28
24Nine Lives GoneHVS 5a 6
25Self PreservationHVS 5a *14
26The Unpure7a+ 8
27The Chubby Brown Syndrome5+ *16
28Totally ManningHVS 4c 4
29Mondays Never RainE2 5c 2
30SquelchHS 4c *30
31Trans-African Drum Battle6c+ 7
32Doyouthinkhesawus6b+ *41
33The Disillusioned Bronto Machine6c+ 14
34Slug Control6b+ 15
35It's a Fluke7a  
36Day Break4 5
37Morning Winpenny5 188
38Duhkha6c *68
39Blabba Mouth7a *32
40East of Sweden6b+ **117
41Nelson Mandela7b **84
42Sperm Whales6c+ 45
43Spunk Trumpets6c *50
44The Chimney CrusadeHVS 4c 2
45Roof of GoreE2 5c 2
46Join the Union, Jack6b 65
47Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists6c+ *14
48Just Yvonne More6c+ *23
49Stars and Stripes6c **56
50Bad Man From Bodie7a+ *24
51Flat Baps7b *2
52Lotus Wing6b **127
53Dry Day6c *12
54That Historic Reach4 41
55Laughability6a 8
56Amuse Bouche4 9
57I've Got a Bad, Bad Bottom!5+ 4
58Double the Fun4 14
60The Toe6a+ 7
61The TaoE2 5c 4
62One Step Ahead of the Blues6c+ *12
63Breaking for SparesVS 4c 2
64Darkside5 111
65Summertime BluesE2 5c 4
66The Chepstow Triangle6b 13
67Always The Rain6c *17
68Indian SummerVS 4c 1
69Dabbawallah3+ 4
70Hurry On Sundown4 3
71kawronaVS 5a 2
72TinadermE1 1
73Trust MeHVS 5a 4
74Ought'n BeHVS 5b 6
75Autumnal Dark6b 3
76There's a Lot of It AboutVS 5a 8
77Biscuits Bite Back4 11
78The Good Friday Agreement6c *51
79Avidya6b+ *11
80Ugooloo6a 110
81Who Is This Man Dukakis6b+ 29
82Josie Swoonpence6b 91
83Les MiserablesHVS 5a 8
84Gordonzola6b+ 111
85Alienation6b+ 28
86Block and CrackleHS 4b 5
87Victimization6b *47
88Polarization6a+ 46
89Avatamsaka6b+ *48
90His Master's Voice6c+ *49
91Habit of a Lifetime6c *25
92Up a Gum Tree7a *14
93Utilizing Eucalyptus7a 5
94SoFB Country6c+ *10
95Violation of Trust6b+ *49
96So Gross6b 7
97The Pink Punter5 10
98Lip Service6b 5
99Crocker's Ash7a+  
100Gobbo Wuz Yer'7a 4
 Climb nameGradex
101Let's Hear It for Lorenzo6b+ 4
102Take The Wave6a 8
103Genetic EngineeringHVS 5a *14
104Genetically Engineered Super MutantVS 4b *13
105A Liberal Smear6a+ 4
106A Date with David MellorE1 5b 1
107Raining StonesHVS 5b 1
108Get Them Out by ChristmasE3 6a 5
109Nation of Shopkeepers6a+ 11
110The Microwave ManE1 5b 2
112Latest Craze7b+ **32
113Good 'Jab'7a+ *2
114Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit6c+ *15
115Gordonzilla7a+ 1
116Just Too Hot7b **13
117Too Hot to Touch7b ***17
118B'stard7a+ *22
119The Forest7b 1
120Really Big Sur7c **22
121Frisco Disco7b *7
122TrishnaE1 5b 1
123Craters of Mono7a *22
124Breast Stroke In A D Cup7a+ 12
125Snaffel Attack7b *8
126Keep It Short5 3
127Short and Simple4 4
128Too Short5 3
129Short Changed4+ 4
131Byg BrotherE3 6a 2
132The Fat Controller5+ *8
133Such a Big Cactus!4 5
134The Fatter Controller6a 4
135Merthyr BobE3 5c 3
136The GatesE1 5b 1
137Lordy, Lordy6b 3
138PreciousE2 5c 1
139Who do you Think I Am6a+ *9
140Who do you Think You Are?6c *1
142Open Head Surgery6c+ *7
143Gimme Back My Head7b **12
144Head Tennis7c+ *1
145Stitch That7c+ **19
146The Drilling Fields7c+ **11
147Almost Me7c ***30
148Hummin' Bird7b+ **18
149Chin Hooks7a *17
150Heady Days6b+ ***111
151Nod if You UnderstandE2 5b  
152Maestro's WallE4 6b  
153Yellow TaxiE1 5b 2
154Poison Poisson6c 3
155Fresh Fish6c+ 6
156In Apedex7b * 
157The Motley Crew6b+ 12
158Muddy Waters6a **134
159Slow Boat to Chepstow6b+ *10
160Up The Garden Path6b+ *15
161Cocotte7a+ **12
162On The GameE5 6b  
163Pet Cemetery7a ***65
164Aerial Combat7b+ **12
16596 Tiers7c+ *5
166A Gathering of Old Men7a+ **5
167You're My Comic Strip HeroE3 5c  
168Let's Celebrate7a+ *6
169The Beauty of It All7a **21
170GunselE3 6a **2
171After MidnightE3 5c **1
172Tier-Gas7a+ **5
173It's a Sin7a+ **12
174Helter SkelterE2 6a *1
175Baggy Trousers7a *11
176The Correct Use of Soap7a *5
177Lux6b+ *6
178Accuracy6b+ **16
179Another DayHVS 5a 1
180ObjectVS 4c *1
181Costner's Last Stand6c+ 3
182Boys Don't Cry6b+ *10
183No Way Out6b *10
184To Bee or not To BeeE1 5b 2
185In My Hour of Need6b 1
186Home is Where the Heart IsVS 4c  
187Dear Prudence6b 2
188The gnarliest7b+ 2
189Wye're Less6b+ **6
190Wye Not6b+ **3
191Kiss of Death6b+ *3
192If So, Wye6c **3
193Perfect Kiss6b **4
194Wye Me?7a 1
195Wye should I?7a 1
196Wye Bother7b  
197All Ten Mill7a+  
198Save Your Kisses For Me7a+  
199Goodbye Kiss6c+ 2
200MattHVS 5a 1
Advertise here
Access notes
Crag owned by Gloucester Wildlife Trust. No official permission to climb has been sought or given, so please maintain a low profile. Note that houses above the Main Cliff have gardens that extend right to the edge of the cliff - for this reason development has been restricted voluntarily to the lower tier as to avoid confrontation that could risk access. Please respect this restraint.

Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.

Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).

Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paul Robertson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney - 10/Sep/12

Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
alan rosier - 21/Aug/11

The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10

Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10

Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again. Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09

BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
alan rosier - 29/Mar/09

Main Cliff There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition. Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught. Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition. Crawl Buttress A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less ‘death defying’. There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees…?
alan rosier - 27/Mar/09

The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now. Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+. Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition. A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily. There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
alan rosier - 23/Mar/09

Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08