Climbs 203
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 114m a.s.l
Faces NW

Ollie Elms on Almost Me © chrisscutt

Crag features

Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.

Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.

Approach notes

Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.

Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).

Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.

I have put a second hanger on the (formerly single) lower off of both Snaffel Attack and Breast Stroke in a D Cup. Both routes in good condition and contain great boulder problems with decent holds **
alan rosier - 09/Aug/15
Not a place to be wearing shorts if you want to get to the wye sector and tricky to find routes, that said i will be back as lots of quality routes Heady days needs new bolt hanger 2 bolt threads sticking out, i left a mallion in place so people can retreat
jjsk8a - 12/Jul/15
Very large, very loose block behind the tree to the right of (I think) Dabawallah. Gave us a scare, and we ran away quickly. Take care!
Rosi - 20/Jun/15
Bolt hangar missing on Heady Days (3rd from top). Unless you're feeling exceptionally confident, this makes the route unclimbable - you'd be looking at decking on the ledge if you fell from the prow.
whenry - 23/May/15
My first time yesterday at ban y gor. And what a place. Like nothing else I've done in the wye valley. Powerful roof climbing. Took my first fall to. Will be back soon for some more. Brilliant.
luke glaister - 08/Mar/15
don't know what had happened to the crawl buttress rope - removed by someone for reasons unknown. Anyway, we replaced it with a new one this evening. Used the rest to put a knotted rope down the fallen tree-trunk round the corner. This seems very benign at the moment but is horrid to climb up and down after rain!
hms - 24/Jun/14
Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney - 10/Sep/12
Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
alan rosier - 21/Aug/11
The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10
Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10
Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again. Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09
BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
alan rosier - 29/Mar/09
Main Cliff There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition. Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught. Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition. Crawl Buttress A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less ‘death defying’. There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees…?
alan rosier - 27/Mar/09
The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now. Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+. Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition. A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily. There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
alan rosier - 23/Mar/09
Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Mushroom Walls
2Shaggy Ink Cap
3A Little Stiff'ner
6a+ *
4Slow Macabre Dance
5We are the Champignons
HVS 5a
6Phallus ImpudicusS 4b
7Laccaria Lacata
E1 5c
8Mushroom Boys
HVS 5a
9Fly Agaric
E1 5b
10ShroomsVS 5a
11MycologyHS 4b
12Days of Mushy PeasE1 5c
13The Gruesome Toothsome5a *
14The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo4a
 The Right hand Escarpment
16Ivy Sep'S
17Jah Wobble
E3 5c
18MammothVS 4c
19DinosaurHVS 5a
20CitadelHVS 5a
VS 4b
22Gonna Write a ClassicHVS 5b *
23Private LivesE3 6a/b *
25Nine Lives GoneHVS 5a
26Self Preservation
HVS 5a *
27The Unpure
28The Itch you Can Never Scratch5c
29The Chubby Brown Syndrome5c *
30Totally ManningHVS 4c
31Mondays Never Rain
E2 5c
HS 4c *
33Trans-African Drum Battle
6b+ *
35The Disillusioned Bronto Machine
36Slug Control
37It's a Fluke7a
38Day Break4a
39Morning Winpenny5a
40Duhkha6c *
41Blabba Mouth7a *
42East of Sweden6b+ **
43Nelson Mandela7b **
44Sperm Whales6c+
45Spunk Trumpets
6c *
46The Chimney CrusadeHVS 4c
47Roof of GoreE2 5c
48Join the Union, Jack6b
49Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists6c+ *
50Just Yvonne More6c+ *
51Stars and Stripes6c **
52Bad Man From Bodie7a+ *
53Flat Baps7b *
54Lotus Wing6b **
55Dry Day
6c *
56That Historic Reach4a
58You're Having a Laugh?6a
59Amuse Bouche4a
60I've Got a Bad, Bad Bottom!5c
61Double the Fun4a
 The Left Hand Escarpment
63The Toe6a+
64The Tao
E2 5c
65One Step Ahead of the Blues
6c+ *
66Breaking for SparesVS 4c
67Darkside5a ***
68Summertime BluesE2 5c
69The Chepstow Triangle6b
70Always The Rain6c *
71Indian SummerVS 4c
72Hurry On SundownVS 4b
74Full Tidenham Breakfast5a
75A Midsummer Night's Garden6a+ *
76kawronaVS 5a
78Trust MeHVS 5a
79Ought'n BeHVS 5b
80The Royal Thanks5c
81Autumnal Dark6b
82There's a Lot of It AboutVS 5a
83Biscuits Bite Back4a
84The Good Friday Agreement6c *
85Avidya6b+ *
87Who Is This Man Dukakis
88Josie Swoonpence6b
89Les Miserables
HVS 5a
92Block and CrackleHS 4b
93Victimization6b *
95Avatamsaka6b+ *
96His Master's Voice6c+ *
97Habit of a Lifetime6c *
98Up a Gum Tree7a *
99Utilizing Eucalyptus7a
100SoFB Country
6c+ *
101Violation of Trust
6b+ *
102So Gross6b
103The Pink Punter5a
104Lip Service6b
105Crocker's Ash
106Gobbo Wuz Yer'7a
107Let's Hear It for Lorenzo6b+
108Take The Wave6a
109Genetic EngineeringHVS 5a *
110Genetically Engineered Super MutantVS 4b *
111A Liberal Smear6a+
112A Date with David Mellor
E1 5b
113Raining Stones
HVS 5b
114Get Them Out by Christmas6b
115Nation of Shopkeepers
116The Microwave Man6a+
 Crawl Buttress
118Latest Craze7b+ **
119Good 'Jab'7a+ *
120Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit6c+ *
122Just Too Hot7b **
123Time was once on my side7c
124Too Hot to Touch7b ***
125B'stard7a+ *
126The Forest7b
127Really Big Sur7c **
128Frisco Disco
7b *
E1 5b
130Craters of Mono7a *
131Breast Stroke In A D Cup7a+
132Snaffel Attack7b *
133Keep It Short5a
134Short and Simple4a
135Too Short5a
136Short Changed
138Byg BrotherE3 6a
139The Fat Controller5c *
140Such a Big Cactus!4a
141The Fatter Controller6a
142Merthyr BobE3 5c
143The GatesE1 5b
144Lordy, Lordy6b
145PreciousE2 5c
146Who do you Think I Am6a+ *
147Who do you Think You Are?6c *
 The Main Cliff
149Open Head Surgery6c+ *
150Gimme Back My Head7b **
151Head Tennis
7c+ *
152Stitch That7b+ **
153The Drilling Fields7c+ **
154Almost Me7c ***
155Hummin' Bird7b+ **
156Chin Hooks7a *
157Heady Days6b+ ***
158Nod if You UnderstandE2 5b
159Maestro's Wall
E4 6b
160Yellow Taxi
E1 5b
161Poison Poisson6c
162Fresh Fish6c+
163In Apedex
7b *
164The Motley Crew
165Muddy Waters6a **
166Slow Boat to Chepstow6b+ *
167Up The Garden Path6b+ *
168Cocotte7a+ **
169On The Game
E5 6b
170Pet Cemetery7a ***
171Aerial Combat7b+ **
17296 Tiers7c+ *
173A Gathering of Old Men7a+ **
174You're My Comic Strip Hero
E3 5c
175Let's Celebrate7a+ *
176The Beauty of It All
7a **
177GunselE3 6a **
178After MidnightE3 5c **
179Tier-Gas7a+ **
180It's a Sin7a+ **
181Helter SkelterE2 6a *
182Baggy Trousers7a *
183The Correct Use of Soap
7a *
184Lux6b+ *
6b+ **
186Another Day
HVS 5a
187ObjectVS 4c *
188Costner's Last Stand
189Boys Don't Cry
6b+ *
190No Way Out
6b *
191To Bee or not To Bee
E1 5b
192In My Hour of Need
193Home is Where the Heart Is
VS 4c
194Dear Prudence6b
195The gnarliest7b+
196Wye're Less6b+ **
197Wye Not6b+ **
198Kiss of Death6b+ *
199If So, Wye6c **
200Perfect Kiss6b **
201Wye Me?7a
202Wye should I?7a
203Wye Bother7b
204All Ten Mill7a+
205Save Your Kisses For Me7a+
206Goodbye Kiss6c+
HVS 5a
208The Parallax VisionE2 5c
209Three Men, Two Girls and a Dog3

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