Climbs 201 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Impressive large crag, split in two tiers, and a long 15m escarpment. Good quality limestone, generally sound, and well protectable. Both trad and bolt protected desperates. Both single-, and multi-pitch routes up to 25 metres. Rarely (if ever) crowded.

Cleaning and re-equipping is in progress 2005/2006. In particular, many routes on the escarpment are now fully bolted.

Access notes
Crag owned by Gloucester Wildlife Trust. No official permission to climb has been sought or given, so please maintain a low profile. Note that houses above the Main Cliff have gardens that extend right to the edge of the cliff - for this reason development has been restricted voluntarily to the lower tier as to avoid confrontation that could risk access. Please respect this restraint.

Park at the grassy areas above Wintour's Leap. Walk down Lancaut Lane for 100m until just past a gate on the right, and just before the path into the nature reserve on the left.

Now follow a vague path on the right around the edge of the field (without crossing the fence into the field), dropping down a couple of metres where necessary until you come to a rock-lined pit (close to the opposite corner of the field from the car parking).

Descend a short, easy gully to the path which takes you past The Mushroom Walls and on to The Escarpment.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), Wye Valley (2007), Ban-y-Gor (1995), (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Shaggy Ink CapD 3
3A Little Stiff'ner6a+ *219
4Slow Macabre Dance6b 99
5We are the ChampignonsHVS 5a 20
6Phallus ImpudicusS 4b 50
7Laccaria LacataE1 5c 14
8Mushroom BoysHVS 5a 25
9Fly AgaricE1 5b 19
10ShroomsVS 5a 2
11MycologyHS 4b 37
12Days of Mushy PeasE1 5c 5
13The Gruesome Toothsome5a *184
14The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo4a 54
16Ivy Sep'S 19
17Jah WobbleE3 5c 1
18MammothVS 4c 17
19DinosaurHVS 5a 6
20CitadelHVS 5a 5
21PeterVS 4b 39
22Gonna Write a ClassicHVS 5b *22
23Private LivesE3 6a/b *1
24Discharge6b+ 32
25Nine Lives GoneHVS 5a 8
26Self PreservationHVS 5a *23
27The Unpure7a+ 9
28The Chubby Brown Syndrome5c *24
29Totally ManningHVS 4c 4
30Mondays Never RainE2 5c 2
31SquelchHS 4c *33
32Trans-African Drum Battle6c+ 8
33Doyouthinkhesawus6b+ *46
34The Disillusioned Bronto Machine6c+ 15
35Slug Control6b+ 19
36It's a Fluke7a  
37Day Break4a 8
38Morning Winpenny5a 235
39Duhkha6c *94
40Blabba Mouth7a *47
41East of Sweden6b+ **156
42Nelson Mandela7b **102
43Sperm Whales6c+ 52
44Spunk Trumpets6c *58
45The Chimney CrusadeHVS 4c 2
46Roof of GoreE2 5c 2
47Join the Union, Jack6b 86
48Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists6c+ *18
49Just Yvonne More6c+ *25
50Stars and Stripes6c **72
51Bad Man From Bodie7a+ *27
52Flat Baps7b *4
53Lotus Wing6b **167
54Dry Day6c *18
55That Historic Reach4a 49
56Laughability6a 14
57You're Having a Laugh?6a 5
58Amuse Bouche4a 14
59I've Got a Bad, Bad Bottom!5c 10
60Double the Fun4a 18
62The Toe6a+ 7
63The TaoE2 5c 4
64One Step Ahead of the Blues6c+ *17
65Breaking for SparesVS 4c 4
66Darkside5a 144
67Summertime BluesE2 5c 4
68The Chepstow Triangle6b 16
69Always The Rain6c *21
70Indian SummerVS 4c 1
71Hurry On SundownVS 4b 3
72Dabbawallah3+ 14
73Full Tidenham Breakfast5a 3
74A Midsummer Night's Garden6a+ *9
75kawronaVS 5a 2
76Tinaderm6b 7
77Trust MeHVS 5a 4
78Ought'n BeHVS 5b 7
79The Royal Thanks5c  
80Autumnal Dark6b 4
81There's a Lot of It AboutVS 5a 9
82Biscuits Bite Back4a 12
83The Good Friday Agreement6c *60
84Avidya6b+ *19
85Ugooloo6a 138
86Who Is This Man Dukakis6b+ 38
87Josie Swoonpence6b 111
88Les MiserablesHVS 5a 9
89Gordonzola6b+ 142
90Alienation6b+ 32
91Block and CrackleHS 4b 5
92Victimization6b *59
93Polarization6a+ 58
94Avatamsaka6b+ *51
95His Master's Voice6c+ *54
96Habit of a Lifetime6c *27
97Up a Gum Tree7a *18
98Utilizing Eucalyptus7a 6
99SoFB Country6c+ *11
100Violation of Trust6b+ *64
101So Gross6b 12
102The Pink Punter5a 24
103Lip Service6b 6
104Crocker's Ash7a+  
105Gobbo Wuz Yer'7a 4
106Let's Hear It for Lorenzo6b+ 4
107Take The Wave6a 10
108Genetic EngineeringHVS 5a *16
109Genetically Engineered Super MutantVS 4b *18
110A Liberal Smear6a+ 5
111A Date with David MellorE1 5b 1
112Raining StonesHVS 5b 1
113Get Them Out by ChristmasE3 6a 6
114Nation of Shopkeepers6a+ 11
115The Microwave ManE1 5b 2
117Latest Craze7b+ **42
118Good 'Jab'7a+ *3
119Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit6c+ *17
120Gordonzilla7a+ 1
121Just Too Hot7b **19
122Too Hot to Touch7b ***20
123B'stard7a+ *26
124The Forest7b 1
125Really Big Sur7c **26
126Frisco Disco7b *8
127TrishnaE1 5b 1
128Craters of Mono7a *24
129Breast Stroke In A D Cup7a+ 12
130Snaffel Attack7b *8
131Keep It Short5a 5
132Short and Simple4a 8
133Too Short5a 8
134Short Changed4c 8
136Byg BrotherE3 6a 2
137The Fat Controller5c *18
138Such a Big Cactus!4a 10
139The Fatter Controller6a 7
140Merthyr BobE3 5c 3
141The GatesE1 5b 1
142Lordy, Lordy6b 3
143PreciousE2 5c 1
144Who do you Think I Am6a+ *10
145Who do you Think You Are?6c *1
147Open Head Surgery6c+ *7
148Gimme Back My Head7b **15
149Head Tennis7c+ *1
150Stitch That7c+ **21
151The Drilling Fields7c+ **13
152Almost Me7c ***44
153Hummin' Bird7b+ **21
154Chin Hooks7a *34
155Heady Days6b+ ***149
156Nod if You UnderstandE2 5b  
157Maestro's WallE4 6b  
158Yellow TaxiE1 5b 2
159Poison Poisson6c 5
160Fresh Fish6c+ 8
161In Apedex7b * 
162The Motley Crew6b+ 16
163Muddy Waters6a **176
164Slow Boat to Chepstow6b+ *12
165Up The Garden Path6b+ *16
166Cocotte7a+ **12
167On The GameE5 6b  
168Pet Cemetery7a ***107
169Aerial Combat7b+ **14
17096 Tiers7c+ *14
171A Gathering of Old Men7a+ **9
172You're My Comic Strip HeroE3 5c  
173Let's Celebrate7a+ *6
174The Beauty of It All7a **27
175GunselE3 6a **2
176After MidnightE3 5c **1
177Tier-Gas7a+ **6
178It's a Sin7a+ **15
179Helter SkelterE2 6a *1
180Baggy Trousers7a *11
181The Correct Use of Soap7a *5
182Lux6b+ *6
183Accuracy6b+ **16
184Another DayHVS 5a 1
185ObjectVS 4c *1
186Costner's Last Stand6c+ 3
187Boys Don't Cry6b+ *12
188No Way Out6b *10
189To Bee or not To BeeE1 5b 2
190In My Hour of Need6b 1
191Home is Where the Heart IsVS 4c  
192Dear Prudence6b 2
193The gnarliest7b+ 2
194Wye're Less6b+ **6
195Wye Not6b+ **3
196Kiss of Death6b+ *3
197If So, Wye6c **3
198Perfect Kiss6b **5
199Wye Me?7a 1
200Wye should I?7a 1
201Wye Bother7b  
202All Ten Mill7a+  
203Save Your Kisses For Me7a+  
204Goodbye Kiss6c+ 2
205MattHVS 5a 1
206The Itch you Can Never Scratch *5c 2
207The Parallax VisionE2 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paul Robertson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Bolt hangar missing on Heady Days (3rd from top). Unless you're feeling exceptionally confident, this makes the route unclimbable - you'd be looking at decking on the ledge if you fell from the prow.
whenry - 23/May/15
My first time yesterday at ban y gor. And what a place. Like nothing else I've done in the wye valley. Powerful roof climbing. Took my first fall to. Will be back soon for some more. Brilliant.
luke glaister - 08/Mar/15
don't know what had happened to the crawl buttress rope - removed by someone for reasons unknown. Anyway, we replaced it with a new one this evening. Used the rest to put a knotted rope down the fallen tree-trunk round the corner. This seems very benign at the moment but is horrid to climb up and down after rain!
hms - 24/Jun/14
Take your insect repellent! Mosquitos are out in force at the moment.
katherinesydney - 10/Sep/12
Lux, Accuracy, Costner's Last Stand, Boys Don't Cry, and No Way Out, are all now (21 Aug 11) de-vegetated and clean. The path at the base of the crag has been cleared as far as No Way out.
alan rosier - 21/Aug/11
The best sport crag in my opinion the area and some interesting trad too. Starting to get more popular since the most recent guide book.
tombeasley - 18/Jul/10
Cool if you like tackling powerful roofs.... I guess.
Jon_Warner - 01/Jun/10
Went down to the main wall the other day and the path is covered with nettles, getting really overgrown again. Might go down with some shears and strimmer haha.
chris.elson - 24/Jun/09
BMC(?) done it, the fallen trees are out of the way and access to the Main cliff is now unobstructed.
alan rosier - 29/Mar/09
Main Cliff There has been a rise in popularity of routes on the Main Cliff, keeping the majority in a good and climbable condition. Some bramble removal / ground clearance / levelling work has been undertaken at the foot of the main cliff to make the path a little less fraught. Gary Gibson has given his approval for intermediate lower offs to be placed on existing routes on the half height terrace. If undertaken, this will mean a good number of easier grade vertical routes here (generally Fr 5+ to Fr 6b) and that the path may stay in a good condition. Crawl Buttress A rope has been placed between existing bolts on Crawl Buttress to make the traverse across quicker and less ‘death defying’. There are a couple of fallen trees at the left hand end the buttress which makes accessing the Main Cliff difficult. The agenda of the last local area BMC meeting included the removal of these trees…?
alan rosier - 27/Mar/09
The main cliff is cleaning up nicely now. Gary Gibson has informally agreed that mid height lower offs can be installed along the main terrace in order to facilitate a series of easier pitches in the range of Fr 5+ to Fr 6b+. Hopefully if this is undertaken it will increase the traffic across this area and keep it in good condition. A hand rope has been placed across the traverse of crawl butress to aid crossing quickly and easily. There is a tree fallen at the left hand end of Crawl Buttress which makes the walk in a bit of a pain, clambering behind a large root bound boulder. The BMC have been asked to fund the specialist removal of this tree and loose rock and the recent local area meeting was to address this issue...?
alan rosier - 23/Mar/09
Its all steep and pumpy and dirty and dismal. But dont let me put you off :)
The Pylon King - 23/Aug/08