Trevallen Cliff

Climbs 124 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 12m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A vast expanse offering single- and multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Top routes such as The Hole (E1 5b), Sunlover (E3 5c), Barbarella (E5 6a) and Justice of The Peace (E6 6c). The Sunlover area has some of the very best routes in all of Pembroke - though doesn't every area?

Access notes
Tidal on routes E of "Romany"; non-tidal elsewhere.

Park at St Govans and walk E. Abseil to desired area from stakes at top of cliff.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 HEUGAMONT  
2vogage to the bottom of the seaE4 5c **4
3Not Tonight JosephineE5 6a * 
4WaterlooE6 6b * 
5Napoleon Bone ApartE6 6b **1
6HeugamontE5 6a **5
7Rock Around The BlockE3 5c ***2
8Man from UncleE6 6b **1
9VersailleE4 6a **2
10Fat Finger ExerciseE5 6a * 
11Physical JerksE5 6b * 
12The BitchE5 6b *6
13JoanE4 6a *4
 SUNLOVER  
15SunloverE3 5c ***216
16Pearl PowderE6 6b *2
17Yellow PearlsE5 6b ***44
18Boss HoggE6 6b **11
19BarbarellaE5 6a ***72
20Orange Robe BurningE6 6b ***19
21Fulmar PantsHVS 5a 27
22I SawE6 6c * 
23Youth on FireE3 5c *38
 ENDANGERED SPECIES  
25Along the WaterfrontE1 5b 1
26Nasty NastyE5 6a *3
27BroadswordE4 6a *7
28Medium SlicedE5 6b ** 
29The Emotional See-Saw of the Infertility ClinicE4 6a * 
30The Good PeopleE2 5c 2
31Two Fat LadiesE6 6a  
32Endangered SpeciesE2 5b *23
33Dead as a DodoE3 6a 2
34The Energy FunnelE3 6a *2
 THE HOLE  
36Hands of the HunterE4 6a *1
37Enter the GoatE2 5b *178
38Goats that Go Gnash in the NightE3 6a 10
39The HoleHVS 5b **327
40Travellin' ManE4 6a 3
41Dead RingerE2 5b 7
42MeatloafE3 6b *2
43Gypsy LaneHVS 5a *30
44RomanyE3 5c **43
45Breaking the HabitE7 6c ** 
 FASCIST AND ME  
47Justice of the PeaceE6 6b ** 
48Smash the BassE5 6b ** 
49Coriolis affairE2 5c **20
50Fascist Groove ThangE3 6a *3
51Neo-fascist Roof ThingE5 6c * 
52The Fascist and MeE4 6a ***76
53MishcolaE1 5a 1
 TREVALLEN PILLAR  
55Trevallen Pillar - Original finishE4 6a ***29
56Trevallen PillarE4 6a ***115
57Ships that Pass in the NightE5 6a ***44
58Abandon ShipE5 6a **2
59SachsenringE5 6b **3
60Dogs of HoareE5 6a ***17
61Just Another DogE5 6b * 
62Soldier of FortuneE1 5b **69
63Fortune CookieE6 6b ** 
64High PressureE4 6b *1
65Private SchultzE4 6a  
66The Honeymoon KillersE5 6a * 
 THE MERCENARY  
68Reach for the SkyE3 5c **12
69Storm TrooperE2 5b *16
70The MercenaryE3 5c **25
71Hand JiveE2 5c *1
72Dinkum WallE3 5c **41
73Brown BessE4 6a 1
74Perth PinkE4 6a *1
75Sweet ToothE2 5b *5
76Stem Them *E4 6a *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer loundsy

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Has anyone been up Fulmar Pants recently?? has the second pitch altered significantly since the guide books were written? the crack is shattered and falling apart, the hand traverse is unprotectable and the move up to the easy finishing corner is desperate and loose. Should have guessed something was up by all the gear left behind to allow retreat. A warning should be added to let any body know they are in for a desperate time with v serious consequences if you come off the hand traverse ie. don't bother..
Paul Bowen - 28/Aug/07
Don't make the mistake we made on our first visit to Trevallen, which was to abseil on our twin 9mm's, assuming that we'd be alright to pull them down after us... Ho ho. They got stuck in the erosion 'gully' by the main abseil point, and it took a good hour of awkward scrambling to get to St.Govan's and up the descent there (this traverse to St.Govan's can be impossible if the tides are wrong). TAKE A SEPARATE AB ROPE!!!
Nick Smith - UKC - 02/Mar/05