Climbs 128
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 7m a.s.l
Faces S

The Fascist and Me © Liam Postlethwaite

Crag features

For some people the hardest thing about Trevallen is getting back out again. There will be a few climbers out there who have abseiled down to do the classic The Hole (HVS) and then struggled to do the start move only to realise that there is no easier escape; persistence usually gets you up though, since above the start it lets up considerably. If you get through this initiation test un-scarred then a whole host of treasures awaits, in fact there is more quality hard climbing here than anywhere else apart from Huntsman's Leap. The climbing follows a distinct series of bands which slope downwards towards the St Govan's end. The lower band contains the meat of most of the routes - some with good gear, like Sunlover (E3) and Yellow Pearls (E5); and a few big run-outs like Ships that Pass in the Night (E5); but all have immaculate and steep rock. The middle band is much more compact giving some bold sections on many routes like Dogs of Hoare (E5) - usually more technical than pumpy though. The top of the crag has a series of huge juggy breaks which is nowhere better experienced than on The Fascist and Me (E4).

Approach notes

Tidal on routes East of Romany; non-tidal elsewhere.

Restricted Access

 Restrictions only apply to a short section - but please do not hang around near the abseil area as the Peregrine nest is very close.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
Has anyone been up Fulmar Pants recently?? has the second pitch altered significantly since the guide books were written? the crack is shattered and falling apart, the hand traverse is unprotectable and the move up to the easy finishing corner is desperate and loose. Should have guessed something was up by all the gear left behind to allow retreat. A warning should be added to let any body know they are in for a desperate time with v serious consequences if you come off the hand traverse ie. don't bother..
Paul Bowen - 28/Aug/07
Don't make the mistake we made on our first visit to Trevallen, which was to abseil on our twin 9mm's, assuming that we'd be alright to pull them down after us... Ho ho. They got stuck in the erosion 'gully' by the main abseil point, and it took a good hour of awkward scrambling to get to St.Govan's and up the descent there (this traverse to St.Govan's can be impossible if the tides are wrong). TAKE A SEPARATE AB ROPE!!!
Nick Smith - UKC - 02/Mar/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Big Bruiser Area 
2Tumbling Dice
-
E3 5b  
3Stem Them
-
E4 6a *1
4Baseheart
-
E5 6a * 
5Vogage to the Bottom of the Sea
-
E5 6a **4
6Stingray
-
E5 6a  
7Fabulous Fishing
-
E5 6b ** 
8The Big Bruiser
-
E3 5c * 
9Know What I Mean 'marry
-
E5 6b  
10Rock around the BlockE3 5c ***2
11Back up Boy
-
E6 6c  
12Once More into the Furnace
-
E5 6a * 
13It Does Your Head In
-
E6 6b  
14Unilateral Disarmament
-
E7 6c  
 Heugamont 
16Scraping the Barrel
-
E4 6a  
17It Takes All Sorts
-
E2 5b  
18Not Tonight Josephine
-
E5 6b *1
19Waterloo
-
E6 6b *1
20Napoleon Bone Apart
-
E6 6b **2
21HeugamontE5 6a **8
22Man from UncleE6 6b **4
23VersailleE4 6a **3
24Fat Finger ExerciseE5 6a *1
25Physical JerksE5 6b *1
26The BitchE5 6b *9
27JoanE4 6a *5
 Sunlover 
29SunloverE3 5c ***288
30Pearl PowderE6 6b *3
31Yellow PearlsE5 6b ***69
32Boss HoggE6 6b **12
33BarbarellaE5 6a ***115
34Orange Robe BurningE6 6b ***38
35I Saw
-
E6 6c * 
36Youth on FireE3 5c *43
37Fulmar PantsHVS 5a 35
38Along the Waterfront
-
E1 5b 1
39Death Ray Glare
-
E4 6b  
40Feet Like Water-Wings
-
E6 6b  
41Alien Being
-
E4 6b * 
42Nasty Nasty
-
E5 6a *3
43Colour Scheme
-
E3 5c  
44Wolf
-
E6 6b  
45Nosferatu
-
E6 6b  
46Outfoxed
-
E6 6b  
47Black Day at Bad Rock
-
E5 6c  
 Endangered Species 
49Alfie Noakes
-
E1 5b  
50Sound of the Suburbs
-
E3 5c  
51Broadsword
-
E4 6a *8
52Medium Sliced
-
E5 6b ** 
53The Emotional See-Saw of the Infertility Clinic
-
E4 6a * 
54Beef Jerky
-
E2 5c 2
55Two Fat Ladies
-
E6 6a  
56Dead as a Dodo
-
E4 6a 2
57Endangered Species
-
E2 5b *31
58The Energy FunnelE3 6a *2
 The Hole 
60Hands of the HunterE4 6a *1
61Goats that Go Gnash in the NightE3 6a 11
62Enter the GoatE2 5b *218
63The HoleHVS 5b **418
64The Hole (Direct Start)
-
E1 5c 9
65Travellin' ManE4 6a 4
66Muscle Beyond Eyeballs
-
E6 6a  
67Dead RingerE2 5b 11
68Old Dogs, New Tricks
-
E2 5b * 
69Bat out of Hell
-
E5 6a  
70Meatloaf
-
E3 6b *2
71Wallflower
-
E5 6a  
72Gypsy LaneHVS 5a *38
73RomanyE3 5c **51
74The Meaning of LifeE4 5c * 
75Breaking the HabitE7 6c ** 
 Fascist and Me 
77No Peace for the Justice
-
E5 6b  
78Justice of the Peace
-
E6 6b ** 
79British Machiavellian Council
-
E6 6b  
80Smash the Bass
-
E5 6b ** 
81The Family
-
E6 6b * 
82Roof of the World
-
E7 6b ** 
83Horizontal Pleasures
-
E7 6c  
84Bingcat
-
E4 6a  
85A Walrus's Dream
-
E3 6a  
86Fascist Groove Thang
-
E4 6a *3
87Neo-fascist Roof Thing
-
E5 6c * 
88The Fascist and MeE4 6a ***122
89Sex and Violets
-
E1 5b  
90Robert Burns
-
E2 5c  
91The Manacle
-
E4 6a * 
92Coriolis affairE2 5c **28
93Super Gerontone
-
HVS 5a 1
94Another Day, Another Dog
-
E6 6b ** 
95The Barbarians are Coming
-
E5 6b * 
96Stepaside
-
E2 5c  
97MishcolaE1 5a 1
 Trevallen Pillar 
99Trevallen Pillar - Original FinishE4 6a ***36
100Trevallen PillarE4 6a ***159
101Trevallen ArÍte
-
E4 5c 1
102Ships that Pass in the NightE5 6a ***69
103Abandon ShipE5 6a **5
104SachsenringE5 6b **4
105Wild Geese
-
E3 6a * 
106Dogs of HoareE5 6a ***23
107Just Another DogE5 6b * 
 The Mercenary 
109Soldier of FortuneE1 5b **93
110Private SchultzE4 6a  
111Fortune CookieE6 6b ** 
112Major Effort
-
E6 6b  
113High PressureE4 6b *1
114The Honeymoon KillersE5 6a * 
115Reach for the SkyE3 5c **15
116Storm TrooperE2 5b *19
117The MercenaryE3 5c **31
118Hand Jive
-
E3 5c **2
119Brown BessE4 6a 1
120Dinkum WallE3 5c **46
121Australia, Australia
-
E3 5c  
122Party People
-
E1 5b ** 
123May Day
-
E1 5a  
124Oz Court
-
E1 5b  
125Perth PinkE4 6a *2
126Private War
-
E3 6a * 
127Baked Alaska
-
E3 6a * 
128Sweet Tooth
-
E2 5c *5
129Molasses
-
E2 5c  
130Stainless
-
E2 5b 1
131Hammerite
-
E4 5c * 
132Hammerite ArÍte
-
E1 5a  
133Smooth Finish
-
E1 5b  
134Red Rum
-
S 4b  
135Grand National
-
HVS 5a  
136A Day at the Races
-
HVS 5b  

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