Trevallen Cliff

Climbs 124 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 12m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A vast expanse offering single- and multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Top routes such as The Hole (E1 5b), Sunlover (E3 5c), Barbarella (E5 6a) and Justice of The Peace (E6 6c). The Sunlover area has some of the very best routes in all of Pembroke - though doesn't every area?

Approach notes
Tidal on routes E of "Romany"; non-tidal elsewhere.

Park at St Govans and walk E. Abseil to desired area from stakes at top of cliff.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Stem ThemE4 6a *1
3Vogage to the Bottom of the SeaE4 5c **4
5Not Tonight JosephineE5 6a * 
6WaterlooE6 6b * 
7Napoleon Bone ApartE6 6b **1
8HeugamontE5 6a **5
9Rock Around The BlockE3 5c ***2
10Man from UncleE6 6b **1
11VersailleE4 6a **2
12Fat Finger ExerciseE5 6a * 
13Physical JerksE5 6b * 
14The BitchE5 6b *8
15JoanE4 6a *4
17SunloverE3 5c ***239
18Pearl PowderE6 6b *2
19Yellow PearlsE5 6b ***50
20Boss HoggE6 6b **11
21BarbarellaE5 6a ***86
22Orange Robe BurningE6 6b ***25
23Fulmar PantsHVS 5a 27
24I SawE6 6c * 
25Youth on FireE3 5c *41
27Along the WaterfrontE1 5b 1
28Nasty NastyE5 6a *3
29BroadswordE4 6a *7
30Medium SlicedE5 6b ** 
31The Emotional See-Saw of the Infertility ClinicE4 6a * 
32The Good PeopleE2 5c 2
33Two Fat LadiesE6 6a  
34Endangered SpeciesE2 5b *24
35Dead as a DodoE3 6a 2
36The Energy FunnelE3 6a *2
38Hands of the HunterE4 6a *1
39Enter the GoatE2 5b *195
40Goats that Go Gnash in the NightE3 6a 10
41The HoleHVS 5b **372
42Travellin' ManE4 6a 4
43Dead RingerE2 5b 9
44MeatloafE3 6b *2
45Gypsy LaneHVS 5a *31
46RomanyE3 5c **46
47The Meaning of LifeE4 5c * 
48Breaking the HabitE7 6c **1
50Justice of the PeaceE6 6b ** 
51Smash the BassE5 6b ** 
52Coriolis affairE2 5c **24
53Fascist Groove ThangE3 6a *3
54Neo-fascist Roof ThingE5 6c * 
55The Fascist and MeE4 6a ***83
56MishcolaE1 5a 1
58Trevallen Pillar - Original finishE4 6a ***30
59Trevallen PillarE4 6a ***130
60Ships that Pass in the NightE5 6a ***57
61Abandon ShipE5 6a **2
62SachsenringE5 6b **3
63Dogs of HoareE5 6a ***19
64Just Another DogE5 6b * 
65Soldier of FortuneE1 5b **76
66Fortune CookieE6 6b ** 
67High PressureE4 6b *1
68Private SchultzE4 6a  
69The Honeymoon KillersE5 6a * 
71Reach for the SkyE3 5c **12
72Storm TrooperE2 5b *19
73The MercenaryE3 5c **27
74Hand JiveE2 5c *1
75Dinkum WallE3 5c **44
76Brown BessE4 6a 1
77Perth PinkE4 6a *2
78Sweet ToothE2 5b *5
79The Hole (Direct start) *E1 5c 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer loundsy

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Has anyone been up Fulmar Pants recently?? has the second pitch altered significantly since the guide books were written? the crack is shattered and falling apart, the hand traverse is unprotectable and the move up to the easy finishing corner is desperate and loose. Should have guessed something was up by all the gear left behind to allow retreat. A warning should be added to let any body know they are in for a desperate time with v serious consequences if you come off the hand traverse ie. don't bother..
Paul Bowen - 28/Aug/07
Don't make the mistake we made on our first visit to Trevallen, which was to abseil on our twin 9mm's, assuming that we'd be alright to pull them down after us... Ho ho. They got stuck in the erosion 'gully' by the main abseil point, and it took a good hour of awkward scrambling to get to St.Govan's and up the descent there (this traverse to St.Govan's can be impossible if the tides are wrong). TAKE A SEPARATE AB ROPE!!!
Nick Smith - UKC - 02/Mar/05