Trevallen Cliff

Climbs 124 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 12m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A vast expanse offering single- and multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Top routes such as The Hole (E1 5b), Sunlover (E3 5c), Barbarella (E5 6a) and Justice of The Peace (E6 6c). The Sunlover area has some of the very best routes in all of Pembroke - though doesn't every area?

Access notes
Tidal on routes E of "Romany"; non-tidal elsewhere.

Park at St Govans and walk E. Abseil to desired area from stakes at top of cliff.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 HEUGAMONT 
2vogage to the bottom of the seaE4 5c **
3Not Tonight JosephineE5 6a *
4WaterlooE6 6b *
5Napoleon Bone ApartE6 6b **
6HeugamontE5 6a **
7Rock Around The BlockE3 5c ***
8Man from UncleE6 6b **
9VersailleE4 6a **
10Fat Finger ExerciseE5 6a *
11Physical JerksE5 6b *
12The BitchE5 6b *
13JoanE4 6a *
 SUNLOVER 
15SunloverE3 5c ***
16Pearl PowderE6 6b *
17Yellow PearlsE5 6b ***
18Boss HoggE6 6b **
19BarbarellaE5 6a ***
20Orange Robe BurningE6 6b ***
21Fulmar PantsHVS 5a
22I SawE6 6c *
23Youth on FireE3 5c *
 ENDANGERED SPECIES 
25Along the WaterfrontE1 5b
26Nasty NastyE5 6a *
27BroadswordE4 6a *
28Medium SlicedE5 6b **
29The Emotional See-Saw of the Infertility ClinicE4 6a *
30The Good PeopleE2 5c
31Two Fat LadiesE6 6a
32Endangered SpeciesE2 5b *
33Dead as a DodoE3 6a
34The Energy FunnelE3 6a
 THE HOLE 
36Hands of the HunterE4 6a *
37Enter the GoatE2 5b *
38Goats that Go Gnash in the NightE3 6a
39The HoleHVS 5b **
40Travellin' ManE4 6a
41Dead RingerE2 5b
42Gypsy LaneHVS 5a
43RomanyE3 5c **
44Breaking the HabitE7 6c **
 FASCIST AND ME 
46Justice of the PeaceE6 6b **
47Smash the BassE5 6b **
48Coriolis affairE2 5c *
49Fascist Groove ThangE3 6a *
50Neo-fascist Roof ThingE5 6c *
51The Fascist and MeE4 6a ***
52MishcolaE1 5a
 TREVALLEN PILLAR 
54Trevallen Pillar - Original finishE4 6a ***
55Trevallen PillarE4 6a ***
56Ships that Pass in the NightE5 6a ***
57Abandon ShipE5 6a **
58SachsenringE5 6b **
59Dogs of HoareE5 6a ***
60Just Another DogE5 6b *
61Soldier of FortuneE1 5b **
62Fortune CookieE7 6b ***
63High PressureE4 6b *
64Private SchultzE4 6a
65The Honeymoon KillersE5 6a *
 THE MERCENARY 
67Reach for the SkyE3 5c **
68Storm TrooperE1 5b *
69The MercenaryE3 5c **
70Hand JiveE2 5c *
71Dinkum WallE3 5c **
72Brown BessE4 6a
73Perth PinkE4 6a *
74Sweet ToothE2 5b *
75Stem Them *E4 6a *
76Meatloaf *E3 6b *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer loundsy

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Has anyone been up Fulmar Pants recently?? has the second pitch altered significantly since the guide books were written? the crack is shattered and falling apart, the hand traverse is unprotectable and the move up to the easy finishing corner is desperate and loose. Should have guessed something was up by all the gear left behind to allow retreat. A warning should be added to let any body know they are in for a desperate time with v serious consequences if you come off the hand traverse ie. don't bother..
Paul Bowen - 28/Aug/07
Don't make the mistake we made on our first visit to Trevallen, which was to abseil on our twin 9mm's, assuming that we'd be alright to pull them down after us... Ho ho. They got stuck in the erosion 'gully' by the main abseil point, and it took a good hour of awkward scrambling to get to St.Govan's and up the descent there (this traverse to St.Govan's can be impossible if the tides are wrong). TAKE A SEPARATE AB ROPE!!!
Nick Smith - UKC - 02/Mar/05