Newton Head

Climbs 70 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 8m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Steep and serious E face, but also good climbing on the lower tier at the W end where there is plenty to satisfy climbers up to E1. The E face is all E3-5. Routes up to 130ft.

Approach notes
Park at St Govans car park. The first headland W. Abseil probably preferable to the Diff scramble down. Routes should be exposed even at high tide.

Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1PreludeS 4a 4
2FugueHS 4b 3
3The RecessD 3
4Left EdgeHS 4b *9
5By-PassHS 4b 7
6Offering to the SeaE2 5b 2
7Chicken RunHVS 5a *9
8Double Dragon4a S2 *7
9ThunderwaveHS 4b *11
10BroadwalkS 4a 7
11Left-hand CrackVS 4c 7
12Twin CracksVS 4c 6
13Bridge CracksHS 4b 7
14Thin CrackS 4a 9
15Central CrackVD 18
16Right CrackS 7
17Wall of NewtsE3 5c *9
18War of WordsE3 5c 3
19FirecrackerE3 5c **13
20MegalithE3 5c *5
23The Ceaseless Tide6b+ S2 * 
24Splashdown6b+ S3 ** 
26Buckyball7b S0 * 
279.5 Weeks7b+ S0 * 
28Candy Trail6a+ S1 * 
30Heimlich Manoeuvre6c S1 * 
31World of Bonobos6c+ S1 **10
32Bonobo arete5a S1 *8
33The Surrealist6c S3 *1
35Hydrophobic6b+ 2
36Southern Rain6b+ S1  
37Galileo's Balls6b+ S1 * 
39Big Hair7a+ S1 * 
40Underwater Love6c+ S1 *1
41Thoughtcrime7a S1 * 
42Uncovered Rock6b+ S2 4
43The Newton Traverse!7a S1 * 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer John Brayshaw

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
from what i can see newton head does not feature in Pembroke Rockfax 06
chris price - 21/Aug/06
The shelf part way down the cliff is easy to get to and provides about the only place to boulder in the area. It\'s also a good place for absolute beginners to have a go top-roping as the routes are easy and you can always walk back up if you\'re not able to climb. Very popular with school clubs for this reason.
John Wellbelove - 15/Jun/02