Climbs 55
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 490m a.s.l
Faces SE

Renny Croft on Medusa Wall (VS) Esk Buttress © S11

Crag features

One of the most impressive blocks of rock in the Lake District with a long approach march and a fantastic sunny location in a remote valley. Wonderful rock. Routes up to 120m long. Red Edge(E1), Square Chimney(VS), Bridges Route(HS), First Last and Always(E7), Central Pillar(E2), Cumbrian(E5), Tresspasser Groove(HVS). The late, great Paul Nunn described Eskdale 'as the most beautiful mountain valley in England'.

 

Concerns have recently been raised about a large, loose block at the 2nd belay on Central Pillar.

Approach notes

One and a half hour plus approach from Brotherilkeld in Eskdale or from Cockley Beck.

Guidebooks

This crag is fantastic, the situation is beautiful and it is quick drying. The walk in may be quite long but it is one of the finest I have done.
James - 28/Aug/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Afterthought
-
S 2
2Moss
-
VS 4c  
3Gargoyle Groove
-
VS 4c, 4c *39
4Gargoyle Direct
-
HVS 5a 53
5Wild BunchE2 5c *8
6Grand SlamE1 5b **43
7The Red EdgeE1 5a ***173
8HumdrumE3 5c ***40
9Black Sunday
-
HVS 5a ***38
10Medusa Wall
-
VS 4c 76
11Square Chimney/Medusa Wall Combination
-
VS ***106
12PegasusE3 5c *4
13Bridge's Route
-
HS 4b ***214
14Central PillarE2 5b ***258
15The Northumbrian
-
E6 6b 1
16The CumbrianE5 6b ***78
17Great Central Climb
-
VS 5a *9
18Trespasser Groove
-
HVS 5a ***122
19Bower's Route
-
HS 4b *27
20The Esk Gorge2 ***23
21Alehouse RockE4 5c *4
22Boot HillVS 4c, 4c *4
23Esk ApeE5 6a **5
24First and Last and AlwaysE7 6b *** 
25Fallout
-
E5 6a *4
26Desperately Sea King
-
E6 6b **1
27Lookster
-
E5 6b * 
28Antibody
-
E4 6a *1
29G.T.I
-
E4 5c *1
30Hydra
-
E2 5c 7
31Strontium DogE4 6a 3
32Serpent Route
-
HS *1
33Big Ben
-
E1 5b *1
34Wild Bunch Left-Hand
-
E3 5c *1
35West Point
-
HVS 5a5a *1
36Harkster
-
E2 5c *1
37Microbe
-
E1 5a5b 1
38Amoeba
-
HVS 5b5a *2
39Apache
-
E3 5c5a 1
40Thor's Buttress and Pen
-
3 ***7
41Perseus
-
E3 5c *1

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