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These details were last updated on 03/May/2010

Llanbradach Quarry

Caerphilly, WALES

Climbs 107 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 130m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
One of the three-star sandstone inland crags with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 55m.

Access is much improved since the 2008 BMC/SWAG crag clean-up.

Many routes have been rebolted from 2007 onwards, but be wary of older, corroded bolts. Use your judgement.

Most of the crag gets the sun early in the day, with the Luxury Walls in the sun from early afternoon to early evening.

May 2010: The crag is mostly dry, and is in very good condition.

Many routes on the Upper Tier have been rebolted, and worth a visit.

Although seepage can be a problem, some routes stay dry even in the rain.

Please contact the crag moderator if you have any concerns about bolts or other fixed protection.

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Gower & SE Wales (1991), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 LUXURY WALLS (POOL AREA)  
2Shadow Of The Sun7a **9
3Slip Into Something Sexy7a+ **16
4Slipped6c+ * 
5Slipping into Luxury6b+ **43
6The Slap of Luxury6c+ *7
7The Luxury Gap7a 9
8Internal Reflection6a 37
9Gladness4 12
10Madness6b 11
11Sadness4+ 22
12SadnessE1 4c 7
13Blandness6a 9
14Badness4 14
 SINISTER WALLS  
16Bringeth yon Leach7a+ *2
17Food For Parasites7a+ *12
18The Host6c *3
19Giving It All Up7a+ *2
20Letters Of Life7a **7
21Dreaming in Colour6c *1
22The Evil Eye7a 1
23In Blood, Of Life, Of Sin?7a+ **2
24Abbatoir And Costello7b+ **2
25Sinister7b **3
26Overleaf6a+ *2
27Snapper6c **2
 CASCADE WALLS  
29Falling Freely7a+ 1
30Splashdown6c 1
31Total Recoil6b+ *4
32Cascade7a 2
33Sphagnum 456a 5
34Right Of Spring6b 2
35Splash It On All Over6c 1
36Bathtime6a+ 2
 SUB-CONTRACTOR'S WALL  
38Sub-Contraction7a 2
39Simple Addition6c **15
40Post Expressionist6b *44
41Too Keynes by Half6c *33
 EXPANSIONIST WALL  
43The Link Pitch (Left)5 3
44The Caerphilly Contract7b+ ***4
45Little White Lies6c+ ***5
46The Link Pitch (Right)4+ 6
47The ExpansionistE3 5b **5
48Grit Box7a+ ***1
49Giant Sand6c+ **2
 LOSS LEADER AREA  
51Amnesia7a 1
52Insomnia6c *2
53Acatalepsia6a+ *5
 WESTERN WALLS  
55Horns A Plenty6a+ 6
56Magellan's Straight?6c 2
57Maurice Chevaliers7a 1
58Bas ChevaliersE3 5c 1
59Moutton Dagger6c *2
 Climb nameGradex
60Peel Back the Flaps6b+ *1
61Jamb One InE1 5b * 
62Hush Money7a+ 1
63Contraband7c ***5
64Boston Strangler7b 1
65Balance Sheet6a 2
66Cashflow Crisis6a+ 2
67Wert's Famous Taxi Ride6b 2
 UPPER TIER LEFT  
69Hedge Of ThymeS 3
70Conan's Boil4+ 7
71The Lapse6a+ 2
72Roraima6b+ *2
73Three Men In A Goat6c *4
74Once Bitten6a 12
75Twice Shy5+ 22
76Hollow Feeling6a+ 7
77Pampered6a+ *4
78You Change Me6c *4
79Nappy Rush6b **25
80Torch The Earth7b+ *1
81Dirty As A Dog6a+ **19
82Dirty As A Dog Direct6c **2
83Desert Storm7a+ ***5
84Twenty Second Chance7a+ 1
85Sixty Second Go See7a *2
86Roaring Forties6a+ *11
87Between The Lines6b 8
 UPPER TIER RIGHT  
89Harrowed Harovians6b+ *6
90SabooE3 5c 1
91Saboo Direct6c 2
92Dandelion6a+ 5
93Burdoch6a+ 2
94Blinded by Love6c **8
95The Laughing Policeman6b 2
96Fair Cop6a+ *2
97Aptitude Test7a *2
98The Merthyr Infill6c 4
99My Blue Bell5+ 11
100All Sand Together6c+ 1
101Red 'Erring6b+ *4
102Plaque Attack6b+ *12
103Incidentally6b *8
104Cop The Lot7a 2
105The Caerphilly Cop Out6c+ 1
106I Am What I Am6a *22
107You Are What You Is6b+ **19
108Is it What You are That is?6c+ *3
109The Brush Down7a *1
110The Brush Up7a *1
111My Little Routey Wooty6a+ *3
 WINTER CLIMBS  
113The Gathering GloomIII 1
114Per Ardva Ad AstraIII *2
115Dear AlisonIV  
116BOSSTRICK *IV * 
117THE BIG FREEZE *IV * 

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Follow the A469 N from Caerphilly, taking the first exit off the roundabout signposted for Llanbradach. Park on right after traffic calming chicane.

Walk back along road and follow path up under the railway line. Turn L along a track.

Access to the lower tier is on the R, following a good path along the edge of the pool to reach the Luxury Walls.

To access the upper tier, climb over a metal gate at the end of the track. Continue on for around 100m, until you reach a gently inclined path on the R. Follow this path until it levels out and wander to the left until you reach the first routes of the upper tier.

Usual precautions re. cars: don't leave valuables visible.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer DafSWMC ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The upper tier is currently heavily overgrown with ferns and midges everywhere! I plan to go cut them all down as it isnt very enjoyable to be up there. From my experience this summer you need quite a long period of dry weather before routes are dry enough
rhys mence ? - 04/Sep/12

Not impressed. Crumbly rock and lots of biting midges.
Vertigo1 ? - 03/May/11

Was there last night, Be aware of a Wasp nest at the base of the decent from the upper tier on the left its in amongst the old trees that have fallen down. They were less than best pleased when one of our party crossed over them!!!
Mark Batey ? - 16/Jul/09

no way I'm actually unlucky enough to be from Llanbradach cant believe that i lived there for 20 yrs and never ever found this gem, Dont Leave Anything in Your Car!
uriel - 06/Aug/04