Llanbradach Quarry

Climbs 107 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 130m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
One of the three-star sandstone inland crags with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 55m.

Access is much improved since the 2008 BMC/SWAG crag clean-up.

Many routes have been rebolted from 2007 onwards, but be wary of older, corroded bolts. Use your judgement.

Most of the crag gets the sun early in the day, with the Luxury Walls in the sun from early afternoon to early evening.

May 2010: The crag is mostly dry, and is in very good condition.

Many routes on the Upper Tier have been rebolted, and worth a visit.

Although seepage can be a problem, some routes stay dry even in the rain.

Please contact the crag moderator if you have any concerns about bolts or other fixed protection.

Approach notes
Follow the A469 N from Caerphilly, taking the first exit off the roundabout signposted for Llanbradach. Park on right after traffic calming chicane.

Walk back along road and follow path up under the railway line. Turn L along a track.

Access to the lower tier is on the R, following a good path along the edge of the pool to reach the Luxury Walls.

To access the upper tier, climb over a metal gate at the end of the track. Continue on for around 100m, until you reach a gently inclined path on the R. Follow this path until it levels out and wander to the left until you reach the first routes of the upper tier.

Usual precautions re. cars: don't leave valuables visible.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Gower & South-East Wales (2004), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Gower & SE Wales (1991), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Shadow Of The Sun7a **10
3Slip Into Something Sexy7a+ **18
4Slipped6c+ *1
5Slipping into Luxury6b+ **56
6The Slap of Luxury6c+ *7
7The Luxury Gap7a 11
8Internal Reflection6a 47
9Gladness4a 19
10Madness6b 19
11Sadness4c 27
12SadnessE1 4c 7
13Blandness6a 12
14Badness4a 23
16Bringeth yon Leach7a+ *2
17Food For Parasites7a+ *15
18The Host6c *4
19Giving It All Up7a+ *2
20Letters Of Life7a **8
21Dreaming in Colour6c *1
22The Evil Eye7a 1
23In Blood, Of Life, Of Sin?7a+ **2
24Abbatoir And Costello7b+ **2
25Sinister7b **6
26Overleaf6a+ *2
27Snapper6c **2
29Falling Freely7a+ 1
30Splashdown6c 2
31Total Recoil6b+ *5
32Cascade7a 3
33Sphagnum 456a 5
34Right Of Spring6b 2
35Splash It On All Over6c 1
36Bathtime6a+ 2
38Sub-Contraction7a 2
39Simple Addition6c **15
40Post Expressionist6b *46
41Too Keynes by Half6c *33
43The Link Pitch (Left)5a 3
44The Caerphilly Contract7b+ ***4
45Little White Lies6c+ ***5
46The Link Pitch (Right)4c 6
47The ExpansionistE3 5b **5
48Grit Box7a+ ***1
49Giant Sand6c+ **2
51Amnesia7a 1
52Insomnia6c *2
53Acatalepsia6a+ *5
55Horns A Plenty6a+ 6
56Magellan's Straight?6c 2
57Maurice Chevaliers7a 1
58Bas ChevaliersE3 5c 1
59Moutton Dagger6c *2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer DafSWMC

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
As of 17th May 2015, routes between "Sadness" and "Internal Reflection" on Pool Wall cleared of brambles and cleaned. Also cleared foliage and brambles on the Upper Tier between "Aptitude Test" and "Incidentally". "You Are What You Is" cleaned and brushed so get on it before the jungle returns. "Aptitude Test" and "Merthyr Infill" currently do not have a safe anchor - traverse awkwardly to the anchor of "My Blue Bell".
nikgoile - 19/May/15
The upper tier is currently heavily overgrown with ferns and midges everywhere! I plan to go cut them all down as it isnt very enjoyable to be up there. From my experience this summer you need quite a long period of dry weather before routes are dry enough
rhys mence - 04/Sep/12
Not impressed. Crumbly rock and lots of biting midges.
Tomar - 03/May/11
Was there last night, Be aware of a Wasp nest at the base of the decent from the upper tier on the left its in amongst the old trees that have fallen down. They were less than best pleased when one of our party crossed over them!!!
Mark Batey - 16/Jul/09
no way I'm actually unlucky enough to be from Llanbradach cant believe that i lived there for 20 yrs and never ever found this gem, Dont Leave Anything in Your Car!
uriel - 06/Aug/04