Climbs 52
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 210m a.s.l
Faces W

Owl & the Antelope E2 5B © Paul Bowen

Crag features

West facing, open but sheltered from wind and quite pleasant on the eye for a quarry.

Routes up to 25m. Mostly steep solid slabs; on less-used routes there are friable holds. Belays are available at the top. The missing insitu gear (pegs) have been replaced with bolts on a number of lines.

Trad routes in the VS - E4 range, include the superb Owl and the Antelope (E2), On Jupiter and Mars (E1) & Fly Me to the Moon (VS) and should be on everyones essential sandstone tick list.

There are an equal number of sports routes between Fr.4 to Fr.7b. In the centre of the cliff are 5 excellent lines, including Western Front Direct; possibly the best Fr.7a in these parts.

A topo is available on the South Wales Mountaineering Club Website (see link below).


Approach notes

Bird warning: kestrels can nest here March - August: avoid their nests.

>From Cardiff take the A470 to turning (signposted Abercynon). At the top of the slip-road turn L: head towards the Navigation Inn, then do a U-turn and head back, to traffic lights. Turn R, park in layby on L of road.

Walk back twds traffic lights, through gate on R onto an old road and then onto narrow path with protruding cables. Incline leads to the Common; continue for 100m until quarry entrance is visible on L.

There is a wobbly block that contains the third bolt on relaxed ladybird. This bolt could do with being moved as it's highly unlikely to hold a fall.
afshapes - 26/May/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left Hand Retaining Wall 
2Leftover5a 26
3Expanded Mole GrooveHVS 5a 3
4Gold Block5c 8
5Kestrel GrooveHVS 4c 4
 Main Wall - Left Hand Slabs 
7The Elastic RetreatE4 6b *3
8Half Man Half Machine6b 21
9Code Of The RoadE1 5a 4
10Rockover Beethoven6a 59
11The Bolt-Fund Blues6b+ *35
12Where Did You Get That Bolt7a *4
13Squash Match6a 53
14Squash Match Direct Finish6a *33
15Blood, Sweat and Beers6b **73
16GeenyE1 5b 32
17Death MatchVS 4c 8
18DeathwishE1 5a 12
19Fly Me To The MoonVS 5a **125
20A Blank Abstract7a 7
21Man Or Mouse7b *4
22Let Me Play Amongst The StarsE2 5c **63
23Deus ex machina6c 48
24Black Magic6b 79
25LadybirdE3 5c 4
 Central Sports Area 
27The Relaxed Ladybird6c **74
28RelaxE2 5b 2
29Great Expectations6c+ **43
30Western FrontE3 6a 5
31Western Front Direct7a ***74
32Eastern Bloc Rock7a+ **18
33Tears For SmearsE1 5b 5
34Goblin Girl6b+ *19
 Owl and Antelope Area 
36Let Me Know What Life Is LikeHVS 5b *14
37Evening LightE2 5c 4
38Save A Mouse, Eat A PussyE3 6a *7
39Mouse Trap6b 42
40The Owl and the Antelope
E2 5b **54
41On Jupiter And MarsE1 5b **73
42Over the MoonE3 5c *4
 Main Wall - Right Hand Side 
44Crash Landing6a 102
45Ol' Blue EyesE3 6b 2
46Heart-throbE1 5c *16
47Sheepbone WallHVS 4c 2
48Feeling Sheep7b 1
 Alco Troll Buttress 
50Micro-wire CorporationE4 6a  
51Big Spider GrooveHVS 5a 3
52Alco-troll6a 18
53Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 17a *6
55Acid House TripE2 5c 2
56The Gang Of FourE3 5b 1
 Outside of Quarry 
58The Side ProjectHVS 5a 1
59Peg Bristol *E5 6a  
60String Theory (Traverse) *6b+  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer alan rosier