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View larger map – Grid Ref ST 090935
Navigation QuarryRhondda Cynon Taff, WALES
Climbs 52 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 210m a.s.l – Faces W
Routes up to 25m. Mostly steep solid slabs; on less-used routes there are friable holds. Belays are available at the top. The missing insitu gear (pegs) have been replaced with bolts on a number of lines.
Trad routes in the VS - E4 range, include the superb Owl and the Antelope (E2), On Jupiter and Mars (E1) & Fly Me to the Moon (VS) and should be on everyones essential sandstone tick list.
There are an equal number of sports routes between Fr.4 to Fr.7b. In the centre of the cliff are 5 excellent lines, including Western Front Direct; possibly the best Fr.7a in these parts.
A topo is available on the South Wales Mountaineering Club Website (see link below).
p.s. STOP STEALING LOWER-OFF KRABS
Climbs at this crag
Bird warning: kestrels can nest here March - August: avoid their nests.
>From Cardiff take the A470 to turning (signposted Abercynon). At the top of the slip-road turn L: head towards the Navigation Inn, then do a U-turn and head back, to traffic lights. Turn R, park in layby on L of road.
Walk back twds traffic lights, through gate on R onto an old road and then onto narrow path with protruding cables. Incline leads to the Common; continue for 100m until quarry entrance is visible on L.
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