Climbs 52
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 210m a.s.l
Faces W

Mark Glaister on Deus Ex Machina (6c) at Navigation Quarry © Jon Warner

Crag features

West facing, open but sheltered from wind and quite pleasant on the eye for a quarry.

Routes up to 25m. Mostly steep solid slabs; on less-used routes there are friable holds. Belays are available at the top. The missing insitu gear (pegs) have been replaced with bolts on a number of lines.

Trad routes in the VS - E4 range, include the superb Owl and the Antelope (E2), On Jupiter and Mars (E1) & Fly Me to the Moon (VS) and should be on everyones essential sandstone tick list.

There are an equal number of sports routes between Fr.4 to Fr.7b. In the centre of the cliff are 5 excellent lines, including Western Front Direct; possibly the best Fr.7a in these parts.

A topo is available on the South Wales Mountaineering Club Website (see link below).

p.s. STOP STEALING LOWER-OFF KRABS

Approach notes

Bird warning: kestrels can nest here March - August: avoid their nests.

>From Cardiff take the A470 to turning (signposted Abercynon). At the top of the slip-road turn L: head towards the Navigation Inn, then do a U-turn and head back, to traffic lights. Turn R, park in layby on L of road.

Walk back twds traffic lights, through gate on R onto an old road and then onto narrow path with protruding cables. Incline leads to the Common; continue for 100m until quarry entrance is visible on L.

Restricted Access

BMC have been adviced that Peregines are nesting at this lcoation. Avoid climbing the the routes Fly Me To The Moon and A Blank Abstract on the MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS at Navigation Quarry.

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
There is a wobbly block that contains the third bolt on relaxed ladybird. This bolt could do with being moved as it's highly unlikely to hold a fall.
afshapes - 26/May/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left Hand Retaining Wall 
2Leftover5a 27
3Expanded Mole GrooveHVS 5a 3
4Gold Block5c 7
5Kestrel GrooveHVS 4c 5
 Main Wall - Left Hand Slabs 
7The Elastic RetreatE4 *3
8Half Man Half Machine6b *28
9Code Of The RoadE1 5a 5
10Rockover Beethoven5c *73
11The Bolt-Fund Blues6b+ *35
12Where Did You Get That Bolt7a 4
13Squash Match6a *61
14Squash Match Direct Finish6a *47
15Blood, Sweat and Beers6b **87
16GeenyE1 5b 31
17Death MatchE2 *8
18DeathwishE1 5a 11
19Fly Me To The MoonVS *138
20A Blank AbstractE3 8
21Man Or Mouse7b *4
22Let Me Play Amongst The StarsE2 **63
23Deus ex machina6c **59
24Black Magic6b **102
25LadybirdE3 5c 4
 Central Sports Area 
27The Relaxed Ladybird6c **93
28RelaxE2 5b 2
29Great Expectations6c+ **52
30Western FrontE3 6a 5
31Western Front Direct7a ***105
32Eastern Bloc Rock7a+ **23
33Tears For SmearsE1 5b 5
34Goblin Girl6b+ *21
 Owl and Antelope Area 
36Let Me Know What Life Is LikeHVS 5b *14
37Evening LightE2 *4
38Save A Mouse, Eat A PussyE3 *7
39Mouse TrapE3 *46
40The Owl and the AntelopeE2 ***55
41On Jupiter And MarsE1 **86
42Over the MoonE3 *4
 Main Wall - Right Hand Side 
44Crash Landing6a *122
45Ol' Blue EyesE3 2
46Heart-throbE1 15
47Sheepbone WallHVS 2
48Feeling Sheep7b 1
 Alco Troll Buttress 
50Micro-wire CorporationE4 6a  
51Big Spider GrooveHVS 5a 3
52Alco-troll6a 22
53Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 17a 6
 Traverses 
55Acid House TripE2 5c 2
56The Gang Of FourE3 5b 1
 Outside of Quarry 
58The Side ProjectHVS 5a 1
59Peg Bristol *E5 6a  
60String Theory (Traverse) *6b+  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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