West facing, open but sheltered from wind and quite pleasant on the eye for a quarry.
Routes up to 25m. Mostly steep solid slabs; on less-used routes there are friable holds. Belays are available at the top. The missing insitu gear (pegs) have been replaced with bolts on a number of lines.
Trad routes in the VS - E4 range, include the superb Owl and the Antelope (E2), On Jupiter and Mars (E1) & Fly Me to the Moon (VS) and should be on everyones essential sandstone tick list.
There are an equal number of sports routes between Fr.4 to Fr.7b. In the centre of the cliff are 5 excellent lines, including Western Front Direct; possibly the best Fr.7a in these parts.
A topo is available on the South Wales Mountaineering Club Website (see link below).
p.s. STOP STEALING LOWER-OFF KRABS
Bird warning: kestrels can nest here March - August: avoid their nests.
>From Cardiff take the A470 to turning (signposted Abercynon). At the top of the slip-road turn L: head towards the Navigation Inn, then do a U-turn and head back, to traffic lights. Turn R, park in layby on L of road.
Walk back twds traffic lights, through gate on R onto an old road and then onto narrow path with protruding cables. Incline leads to the Common; continue for 100m until quarry entrance is visible on L.
|LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL|
|3||Expanded Mole Groove||HVS 5a||3|
|5||Kestrel Groove||HVS 4c||4|
|MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS|
|7||The Elastic Retreat||E4 6b *||3|
|8||Half Man Half Machine||6b||21|
|9||Code Of The Road||E1 5a||3|
|11||The Bolt-Fund Blues||6b+ *||35|
|12||Where Did You Get That Bolt||7a *||4|
|14||Squash Match Direct Finish||6a *||33|
|15||Blood, Sweat and Beers||6b **||73|
|17||Death Match||VS 4c||8|
|19||Fly Me To The Moon||VS 5a **||119|
|20||A Blank Abstract||7a||7|
|21||Man Or Mouse||7b *||4|
|22||Let Me Play Amongst The Stars||E2 5c **||62|
|23||Deus ex machina||6c||45|
|CENTRAL SPORTS AREA|
|27||The Relaxed Ladybird||6c **||71|
|29||Great Expectations||6c+ **||43|
|30||Western Front||E3 6a||4|
|31||Western Front Direct||7a ***||71|
|32||Eastern Bloc Rock||7a+ **||18|
|33||Tears For Smears||E1 5b||5|
|34||Goblin Girl||6b+ *||19|
|OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA|
|36||Let Me Know What Life Is Like||HVS 5b *||14|
|37||Evening Light||E2 5c||4|
|38||Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy||E3 6a *||7|
|40||The Owl and the Antelope||E2 5b **||54|
|41||On Jupiter And Mars||E1 5b **||71|
|42||Over the Moon||E3 5c *||4|
|MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SIDE|
|45||Ol' Blue Eyes||E3 6b||2|
|46||Heart-throb||E1 5c *||16|
|47||Sheepbone Wall||HVS 4c||2|
|ALCO TROLL BUTTRESS|
|50||Micro-wire Corporation||E4 6a|
|51||Big Spider Groove||HVS 5a||3|
|53||Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1||7a *||6|
|55||Acid House Trip||E2 5c||2|
|56||The Gang Of Four||E3 5b||1|
|OUTSIDE OF QUARRY|
|58||The Side Project||HVS 5a||1|
|59||Peg Bristol *||E5 6a|
|60||String Theory (Traverse) *||6b+|
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|There is a wobbly block that contains the third bolt on relaxed ladybird. This bolt could do with being moved as it's highly unlikely to hold a fall.|
afshapes - 26/May/15