Climbs 125
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces NE

Note the graffiti © Mark Salter

Crag features

Part-natural, part-quarried, probably the best sandstone crag in South Wales. Routes up to 21m, though not much for the sub 6a climber.

Vitually all the old fixed gear has now been replaced with either 10mm expansion bolts or resin staples and all sport routes in the lower quarry have lower offs, some sport routes in the upper quarry still require topping out (slings required).

If anyone has any issues with any of the fixed gear please let me know so it can be identified and sorted.

Approach notes

Visible from the A470, but hard to find. Take the 3rd exit(Ystrad Mynach) on the Abercynon-Mountain Ash roundabout, then 1st L at the next roundabout towards Quakers Yard. Just before the first set of traffic lights(pedestrian crossing) take a narrow L over the river Taff, follow the road up a hill until you pass back over the A470: turn immeadiately R along a single-track road. Lower Quarry is soon visible on the L. There is ample parking directly below the lower quarry although it is beggining to get pretty rough due to 4x4 and motocross use.

Very occasionaly kestrels nest in the lower quarry, if this is the case please give them a wide berth

A ‘microwave oven’ sized block, at approx ¾ height, between routes ‘Shackles Of Love’ and ‘The Frightening Looking Flake’ came off whilst someone was climbing on it on Sunday 3rd July 2016. Please carefully check any loose looking rock in this area, as the rest of the overhang has a sizeable crack above it. Please see route page for photos...
jumpingjimminy - 07/Jul/16
Bone dry as of Sunday 25th March
Dan_Carroll - 25/Mar/12
Would say this is more of a summer venue. On a dry day in early March, 80% is still wet as many of the walls never see any sun. On upper quarry, some of the routes have no lower off, so beware.
J1_TOV - 03/Mar/12
Bring a clip stick . Many of the the first bolts are very high - presumably to deter vandals. Otherwise a great day or 6 out
chris wyatt - 27/Jun/11
The area marked 'Right Wall' on this page is wrong, it should read 'Left Wall'. The right wall climbs don't appear here at all.
Stone Muppet - 13/May/11
The comments about the bolting by Dai Edwards are now out of date. Much of the crag seems to have been rebolted and several new lines added.
richardr - 15/Apr/09
Just recenetly returned from a great day at this craig, my one comment would be though to take plenty of cams and not to reply on the on situ bolts as we found out and left me with a few scraps on my arms but a worth will vist, also take in the local pubs where we got very druck after a hard days climb.
Dai Edwards - 30/Sep/03
A brilliant area surrounded by stunning scenery with lots of climbing variety, the natural area has some easier climbs than the quarry, but none are too easy. A good day out.
Jonathan Butters - 30/Mar/03
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Climbs at this crag

46One Track Mind7a **116
47Greased Balls6b *62
48Rain And TearsE1 5b 5
49Full BagE2 5b 6
50Controlled Emission6c **49
51Sperm WailE5 6b *3
52Sperm Wail7a+ *2
53Scrotum Oil6c *26
54Naked TruthHVS 5a 8
55Has the Fat Lady Sung6b 2
56Pick Up The Pieces6a+ 47
 upper tier cave area 
58Retro Butt InHVS 5a 9
59Perfect Scoundrels6c *19
60Butt Out5c 34
61Per Rectum5b *41
62Stool Sample5c 27
63As It Is5c 68
64Turd Strangler6c 8
65Dai Horrea6b 18
66TraverseE3 6a 3
 Natural outcrop area 
68Chapeau VertVS 4c 5
69BlockbusterHVS 5a 10
70Always A MolehillHVS 5b 7
71Once a MolehillHVS 5a 7
72Personal StashE3 6a *3
73LudditesE3 5c *14
74Livin On a PrayerE6 6c **8
75Trouble at MillE3 6a *10
76Then There Is A MountainE3 6a 3
77Juggery PokeryE1 6a 3
78Thompson Bank WatchE1 6a 1
79Old DogVS 4c 30
80New TricksE1 5b 9
81Tall StoryE2 5b 4
82In Over My HeadE3 6b *5
83Mister NaturalE2 5c 7
84Surprise, SurpriseE1 5c 10
85Audio PornographyE3 5c 10
 Upper Quarry 
87Gladwyn TidingsHS 4a 46
88Newton's Apple5c *83
89Dirty GertyVS 4c *60
90Acceleration Due To GravityHVS 4c 29
91It's A Sine6a+ *55
92TangentE2 5c 4
93Scared Seal Banter7a+ **20
94The Mastic Mick6c *50
95Cled's CrackHVS 5a 20
96The Grout Of San Romano6c **82
97The Grout Of San Romano - right hand6c+ **5
98Brush UpHVS 5a 41
99Step UpE1 5a 64
100The Godfather6a+ *54
101Up Yours6a **79
102SmoothieHVS 5c 14
103Windy EdgeE1 5b *48
104Mortar Life6a 35
105Shorta Life5a 10
106O Solo MioHVS 5b 40
107Chips With EverythingE1 5c 9
 BOULDERING SECTION 
109Red Queen ArteV1 4
110Unnamed IIV1 4
111Unnamed IV1 3
112Square Boulder-Left AreteV1 7
113Square Boulder- Front FaceV3 8
114Square Boulder-Right Arete
-
V1 7
115Square Boulder- Right Hand FaceV2 7
116Slippery slopeV2 **2
117Slippery Slope Right HandV2 2
118Slippery slope lefthandV0 2
119Blurred Linef7A+ **1
120Lank AreteV0 5
121Moving Linef7B+ **1
122Porroh manV4 **4
123Jump StartV1 4
124Off DeckV1 *3
125Rail rideV2 **3
126RunawayV4 **2
127ToobedV3 3
128Wave goodbyeV3 2
129UnderliningV3 **2
130OverliningV3 **2
131The Frackardf7B **4
132UndergraduateV1 1
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 

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