Climbs 126
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces NE

South Wales Sandstone yet again © Mark Salter

Crag features

Part-natural, part-quarried, probably the best sandstone crag in South Wales. Routes up to 21m, though not much for the sub 6a climber.

Vitually all the old fixed gear has now been replaced with either 10mm expansion bolts or resin staples and all sport routes in the lower quarry have lower offs, some sport routes in the upper quarry still require topping out (slings required).

If anyone has any issues with any of the fixed gear please let me know so it can be identified and sorted.

Approach notes

Visible from the A470, but hard to find. Take the 3rd exit(Ystrad Mynach) on the Abercynon-Mountain Ash roundabout, then 1st L at the next roundabout towards Quakers Yard. Just before the first set of traffic lights(pedestrian crossing) take a narrow L over the river Taff, follow the road up a hill until you pass back over the A470: turn immeadiately R along a single-track road. Lower Quarry is soon visible on the L. There is ample parking directly below the lower quarry although it is beggining to get pretty rough due to 4x4 and motocross use.

Very occasionaly kestrels nest in the lower quarry, if this is the case please give them a wide berth

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
A ‘microwave oven’ sized block, at approx ¾ height, between routes ‘Shackles Of Love’ and ‘The Frightening Looking Flake’ came off whilst someone was climbing on it on Sunday 3rd July 2016. Please carefully check any loose looking rock in this area, as the rest of the overhang has a sizeable crack above it. Please see route page for photos...
jumpingjimminy - 07/Jul/16
Bone dry as of Sunday 25th March
Dan_Carroll - 25/Mar/12
Would say this is more of a summer venue. On a dry day in early March, 80% is still wet as many of the walls never see any sun. On upper quarry, some of the routes have no lower off, so beware.
J1_TOV - 03/Mar/12
Bring a clip stick . Many of the the first bolts are very high - presumably to deter vandals. Otherwise a great day or 6 out
chris wyatt - 27/Jun/11
The area marked 'Right Wall' on this page is wrong, it should read 'Left Wall'. The right wall climbs don't appear here at all.
Stone Muppet - 13/May/11
The comments about the bolting by Dai Edwards are now out of date. Much of the crag seems to have been rebolted and several new lines added.
richardr - 15/Apr/09
Just recenetly returned from a great day at this craig, my one comment would be though to take plenty of cams and not to reply on the on situ bolts as we found out and left me with a few scraps on my arms but a worth will vist, also take in the local pubs where we got very druck after a hard days climb.
Dai Edwards - 30/Sep/03
A brilliant area surrounded by stunning scenery with lots of climbing variety, the natural area has some easier climbs than the quarry, but none are too easy. A good day out.
Jonathan Butters - 30/Mar/03
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Climbs at this crag

 Right Wall 
46One Track MindE5 6a *3
47One Track Mind7a **128
48Greased Balls6b *62
49Rain And TearsE1 5b 5
50Full BagE2 5b 6
51Controlled Emission6c **49
52Sperm WailE5 6b *3
53Sperm Wail7a+ *2
54Scrotum Oil6c *27
55Naked TruthHVS 5a 8
56Has the Fat Lady Sung6b 1
57Pick Up The Pieces6a+ 48
 upper tier cave area 
59Retro Butt InHVS 5a 9
60Perfect Scoundrels6c *19
61Butt Out5c 36
62Per Rectum5b *41
63Stool Sample5c 27
64As It Is5c 68
65Turd Strangler6c 8
66Dai Horrea6b 19
67TraverseE3 6a 3
 Natural outcrop area 
69Chapeau VertVS 4c 5
70BlockbusterHVS 5a 10
71Always A MolehillHVS 5b 7
72Once a MolehillHVS 5a 7
73Personal StashE3 6a *3
74LudditesE3 5c *16
75Livin On a PrayerE6 6c **8
76Trouble at MillE3 6a *10
77Then There Is A MountainE3 6a 3
78Juggery PokeryE1 6a 3
79Thompson Bank WatchE1 6a 1
80Old DogVS 4c 30
81New TricksE1 5b 9
82Tall StoryE2 5b 4
83In Over My HeadE3 6b *5
84Mister NaturalE2 5c 7
85Surprise, SurpriseE1 5c 10
86Audio PornographyE3 5c 10
 Upper Quarry 
88Gladwyn TidingsHS 4a 46
89Newton's Apple5c *83
90Dirty GertyVS 4c *60
91Acceleration Due To GravityHVS 4c 29
92It's A Sine6a+ *55
93TangentE2 5c 4
94Scared Seal Banter7a+ **21
95The Mastic Mick6c *51
96Cled's CrackHVS 5a 21
97The Grout Of San Romano6c **83
98The Grout Of San Romano - right hand6c+ **5
99Brush UpHVS 5a 41
100Step UpE1 5a 65
101The Godfather6a+ *54
102Up Yours6a **79
103SmoothieHVS 5c 14
104Windy EdgeE1 5b *48
105Mortar Life6a 35
106Shorta Life5a 10
107O Solo MioHVS 5b 40
108Chips With EverythingE1 5c 9
 BOULDERING SECTION 
110Red Queen ArteV1 4
111Unnamed IIV1 3
112Unnamed IV1 3
113Square Boulder-Left AreteV1 7
114Square Boulder- Front FaceV3 8
115Square Boulder-Right Arete
-
V1 7
116Square Boulder- Right Hand FaceV2 7
117Slippery slopeV2 **2
118Slippery Slope Right HandV2 2
119Slippery slope lefthandV0 2
120Blurred Linef7A+ **1
121Lank AreteV0 5
122Moving Linef7B+ **1
123Porroh manV4 **4
124Jump StartV1 4
125Off DeckV1 *3
126Rail rideV2 **3
127RunawayV4 **2
128ToobedV3 3
129Wave goodbyeV3 2
130UnderliningV3 **2
131OverliningV3 **2
132The Frackardf7B **4
133UndergraduateV1 1
 New routes 

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