Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Note the graffiti © Mark Salter
Part-natural, part-quarried, probably the best sandstone crag in South Wales. Routes up to 21m, though not much for the sub 6a climber.
Vitually all the old fixed gear has now been replaced with either 10mm expansion bolts or resin staples and all sport routes in the lower quarry have lower offs, some sport routes in the upper quarry still require topping out (slings required).
If anyone has any issues with any of the fixed gear please let me know so it can be identified and sorted.
Visible from the A470, but hard to find. Take the 3rd exit(Ystrad Mynach) on the Abercynon-Mountain Ash roundabout, then 1st L at the next roundabout towards Quakers Yard. Just before the first set of traffic lights(pedestrian crossing) take a narrow L over the river Taff, follow the road up a hill until you pass back over the A470: turn immeadiately R along a single-track road. Lower Quarry is soon visible on the L. There is ample parking directly below the lower quarry although it is beggining to get pretty rough due to 4x4 and motocross use.
Very occasionaly kestrels nest in the lower quarry, if this is the case please give them a wide berth