The Gap

Climbs 125 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Part-natural, part-quarried, probably the best sandstone crag in South Wales. Routes up to 21m, though not much for the sub 6a climber.

Vitually all the old fixed gear has now been replaced with either 10mm expansion bolts or resin staples and all sport routes in the lower quarry have lower offs, some sport routes in the upper quarry still require topping out (slings required).

If anyone has any issues with any of the fixed gear please let me know so it can be identified and sorted.

Access notes
Visible from the A470, but hard to find. Take the 3rd exit(Ystrad Mynach) on the Abercynon-Mountain Ash roundabout, then 1st L at the next roundabout towards Quakers Yard. Just before the first set of traffic lights(pedestrian crossing) take a narrow L over the river Taff, follow the road up a hill until you pass back over the A470: turn immeadiately R along a single-track road. Lower Quarry is soon visible on the L. There is ample parking directly below the lower quarry although it is beggining to get pretty rough due to 4x4 and motocross use.

Very occasionaly kestrels nest in the lower quarry, if this is the case please give them a wide berth

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), Gower & SE Wales (1991), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LEFT WALL  
2As It Was4c 48
3Kabuto Mushi6a+ 90
4Yikes6b+ 42
5So Uncool6c **66
6Just Hanging AroundE1 5b 15
7Bluster6a+ *152
8Fluster6a+ *178
9Marlin On The Wall6a+ *106
10Don't Blame Me6b 42
11Sumo No Shiro6b+ 26
 IVY LEAGUE CAVE AREA  
13Canine League6a+ 13
14Sleeping Dogs Lie6b+ ***21
15Don't Bark Yet7a 12
16Smack My Bitch Up6b+ 7
17Generation Bitch6b 13
18Generation GapHVS 5a 23
19Generation Gap5a *95
20Mr FaradyE1 5b 14
21Mr. Faraday6a 36
22Poker In The Eye6a+ **119
23Grout Expectations6a *69
24Shackles Of Love6a *53
25The Frightening Looking FlakeE2 5c 4
 MAIN WALL  
27Ring Of Confidence6b *61
28Get Flossed7a+ 28
29Loctite7b *13
30Land Of The Dinosaurs6b 128
31Land of the Dinosaurs / Loctite Finish6c **18
32A Momentary Lapse Of Reason7b+ *17
33A Momentary Right Hand Treason7b+ *1
34Rattle Those TusksE3 5c *7
35Rattle Those Tusks6b **83
36Mad At The Sun7c **8
37Leave it to me6c **39
38Salmon Running, Bear Cunning7a *94
39John West7b 6
40Anything You Can Do7b *7
41I Can Do Better7b *6
42Encore! Magnifique!7b+ ***57
43Pleasant Valley Sunday into Encore7b **1
44Pleasant Valley Sunday7a+ **41
 UPPER TIER  
46One Track MindE5 6a *3
47One Track Mind7a **98
48Greased Balls6b 55
49Rain And TearsE1 5b 4
50Full BagE2 5b 3
51Controlled Emission6b **44
52Sperm WailE5 6b *3
53Sperm Wail7a+ 2
54Scrotum Oil6c **23
55Naked TruthHVS 5a 6
56Has the Fat Lady Sung6b  
57Pick Up The Pieces6a+ *42
 UPPER TIER CAVE AREA  
59Retro Butt InHVS 5a 8
60Perfect Scoundrels6c **16
61Butt Out5c 26
62Per Rectum4c 25
63Stool Sample5a 20
64As It Is5c 60
65Turd Strangler6c+ 8
66Dai Horrea6b 16
67TraverseE3 6a 3
 NATURAL OUTCROP AREA  
69Chapeau VertVS 4c 4
70BlockbusterHVS 5a 9
71Always A MolehillHVS 5b 5
72Once a MolehillHVS 5a 5
73Personal StashE3 6a *3
74LudditesE3 5c *6
75Livin On a PrayerE6 6c **5
76Trouble at MillE3 6a *5
77Then There Is A MountainE3 6a 2
78Juggery PokeryE1 6a 3
79Thompson Bank WatchE1 6a 1
80Old DogVS 4c 23
81New TricksE1 5b 8
82Tall StoryE2 5b 4
83In Over My HeadE3 6b *5
84Mister NaturalE2 5c 5
85Surprise, SurpriseE1 5c 9
86Audio PornographyE3 5c 8
 UPPER QUARRY  
88Gladwyn TidingsHS 4a 38
89Newton's Apple5c *78
90Dirty GertyVS 4c *51
91Acceleration Due To GravityHVS 4c 26
92It's A Sine6a+ 45
93TangentE2 5c 4
94Scared Seal Banter7a+ **12
95The Mastic Mick6c 32
96Cled's CrackHVS 5a 18
97The Grout Of San Romano6c **63
98The Grout Of San Romano - right hand6c+ **3
99Brush UpHVS 5a 36
100Step UpE1 5a 54
101The Godfather6a+ *47
102Up Yours6a+ **65
103SmoothieHVS 5c 12
104Windy EdgeE1 5b *44
105Mortar Life6a+ 32
106Shorta Life5a 6
107O Solo MioHVS 5b 37
108Chips With EverythingE1 5c 8
 BOULDERING SECTION  
110Red Queen ArêteV1 5 4
111Unnamed IIV1 4 3
112Unnamed IV1 4 3
113Square Boulder-Left AreteV1 5
114Square Boulder- Front FaceV3 6
115Square Boulder-Right AreteV1 5
116Square Boulder- Right Hand FaceV2 5
117Slippery slopeV2 **2
118Slippery Slope Right HandV2 2
119Slippery slope lefthandV0 2
120Blurred Linef7A+ **1
121Lank AreteV0 4
122Moving Linef7B+ **1
123Porroh manV4 **4
124Jump StartV1 3
125Off DeckV1 *3
126Rail rideV2 **3
127RunawayV4 **2
128ToobedV3 2
129Wave goodbyeV3 2
130UnderliningV3 **2
131OverliningV3 **2
132The Frackardf7B **3
133UndergraduateV1 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Bone dry as of Sunday 25th March
Dan_Carroll - 25/Mar/12
Would say this is more of a summer venue. On a dry day in early March, 80% is still wet as many of the walls never see any sun. On upper quarry, some of the routes have no lower off, so beware.
J1_TOV - 03/Mar/12
Bring a clip stick . Many of the the first bolts are very high - presumably to deter vandals. Otherwise a great day or 6 out
chris wyatt - 27/Jun/11
The area marked 'Right Wall' on this page is wrong, it should read 'Left Wall'. The right wall climbs don't appear here at all.
Stone Muppet - 13/May/11
The comments about the bolting by Dai Edwards are now out of date. Much of the crag seems to have been rebolted and several new lines added.
richardr - 15/Apr/09
Just recenetly returned from a great day at this craig, my one comment would be though to take plenty of cams and not to reply on the on situ bolts as we found out and left me with a few scraps on my arms but a worth will vist, also take in the local pubs where we got very druck after a hard days climb.
Dai Edwards - 30/Sep/03
A brilliant area surrounded by stunning scenery with lots of climbing variety, the natural area has some easier climbs than the quarry, but none are too easy. A good day out.
Jonathan Butters - 30/Mar/03
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 02/Jun/2011

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