Cwmaman Main and Cwmaman West Quarries Rhondda Cynon Taff, WALES
Climbs 37 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 232m a.s.l – Faces S
Cwmaman is a former coal mining pit village near Aberdare, South Wales. The name Cwmaman is Welsh for "Aman Valley" (the River Aman being the main river flowing through the village). The town is probably more well known for giving birth to the band called The Stereophonics in 1992.
Cwmaman Main is a three-star inland sandstone quarry. Some seepage on the (steep) S facing wall, but good rock and protection. There are also N facing slabs - best in summer. A good mix of grades, though the starred ones are 7a and above, up to 23m.
From the A4059 Mountain Ash to Aberdare road take the Cwmaman (Aberaman) turn off and follow this road to a T-Junction. Turn left and follow this road to The Shepard’s Arms on the left. Take the obvious side road forking off left (Llanwonno Rd) just before the estate. Follow this past a prominent row of houses, until a gravel track leads off left, by a substation, to two houses. This is by a triangular island in the road. Follow a narrow dirt track off left and park, taking care not to block the forestry road bending back right. Walk down the track for 100m, then take a steep path up the hill to arrive in the quarry.
If on foot, regular buses run to Cwmaman itself; from Aberdare and Mountain Ash.
For West Quarry: don't turn L, head up the hill, park, follow track to derelict cottages, and then faint path to the quarry.
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Gower & South-East Wales (2004), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), Gower & SE Wales (1991), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki
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Alys Rook had a big loose block in it which has now been removed along with the 3rd bolt that was in it. At presnt there is now a run-out from 2nd - 4th but there should be a peg/ bolt going in, in the next few weeks.|
Ollie B - 17/Mar/11