Secluded; surrounding woodland may keep it damp after rain. Plenty to entertain the VS-HVS climber - including the arêtes near the entrance which are sunny and dry quickly - and some three-starred E4+ routes; the longest up to 23m.
Very dirty rock, lots and lots of moss. Base is damp and full of flys.
M4 junction 36, take the A4061 (Bryncethin to Blackmill) road. In Blackmill turn R onto A4093 (signpost Tonyrefail) just after Ogmore Junction pub. Head to Glynogwr, and there turn L between village church and school, into steep narrow lane. Park at the bottom after passing ford.
Walk into forest, following track (upstream), over a gate; at junction with road turn R and almost double back on yourself. Walk up the path 20 meters and at graffitied trees turn L onto small path to the main rift of the crag. Takes approx 25 mins from car park.
Gower & SE Wales (1991)
|3||The creaming codpiece||E2 5c||2|
|4||Consuming Passion||HVS 5b||2|
|6||Into The Trees||VS 4b||1|
|8||Teaching Granny||E1 5c||1|
|9||At Your Convienience||E3 5c||2|
|10||If You Go Down To The Woods Today||E4 6a||2|
|11||Where The Power Lies||E6 6b ***||1|
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|Went this summer after a few really good days of sunshine and it was still damp and wet. Bitten to death by flys and covered in mud! Dirty rock - near blackmill but not really worth the trip (still itching now). Probably good 10 years ago|
Simon Bathard - 08/Jan/04