Climbs 56 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 160m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Very popular with sub-E1 climbers (being good quality but also offering those grades). A two-star crag, with routes up to 22m.

Access notes
Near Ystrad Mynach, visible behind the A472 (Ystrad Mynach to Nelson). From Y.M. go under both railway bridges, then 3rd exit from the roundabount, (from Nelson, 2nd left off the roundsbout) then immediate left into Tredomen Business Park.

Cross the railway bridge, then find the well-worn path to the crag (not the cycle track) - 2 mins. Usual rules about leaving nothing valuable or visible in the car apply.

Gower & South-East Wales (2004), Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1LimboVS 4c *
2The LeapHVS 4c
3CornflakeHVS 5a
4AfterthoughtHS 4b
5Cadet's RouteVD
6The WoleryS
7Spiney NormanHS 4c *
8AnarchiaE2 5b
9Rhymney And CocaineE4 6c *
10Barefoot JimV5 6c **
12Split Crotch VariationE1 5b *
13Split Crotch Variation & ContinuationE1 5b
14Maginot LineE1 5b
15KlingonE2 5c *
16eeyores gloomy placeVD
17pinnacle chimneyD
19Too RiskyVS 4c
20Hell For PleasureE1 5b
21Sheer PleasureE1 5b
22Stitches On ScarsE5 6b *
23Stitches DirectE5 5c *
24ScabsE3 5b **
25ShriekbackE5 6a
26Shag RatE1 5b
27The Last WaltzD
28Bold FingerVS 5b *
29The SightingVS 4c
30The GibbonS
31Sheer HellE2 5b
32SennapodHS 4b
33The HorticulturalistS 4a
34The HerbiculturalistS
35Free WallS
36Devils in hellVD
37Direct FinishVS 4c *
38Western RollVS 5a
39Western Roll/Free WorldE1 5b **
40Arse Trad MynachE3 6a
41Aaron The Amorous AardvarkS
42PushoverVS 4b
43The PusherHVS 5a
44alley crackS
45Alley OopS 4a
46Thin Chimney FinishHVS 4c *
47Giggler's AreteE1 5b
49The Higher The FewerHVS 4c
51PCVD *
52Low Level TraverseV2 6a *
53Devils In Hell Direct FinishVS 4c
54Pit Stop EliminateV4
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A decent couple of hours soloing some of the lower grade stuff. A couple of nice crack lines and slabs at HS/VS. Some of the cracks in the upper amphitheaters overgrown. And shards of glass on literally every surface that it couldn't slide off.
robthered - 08/May/13
Had a nice day on Monday, but there is a lot of glass again. My partner cut his hand on some reaching up at one point. He was just there a couple weeks ago and said it hadn't been so bad then.
saralward - 15/Mar/12
Went here last night, generally good, still broken glass - small and often.
matt_lethargic - 30/Jul/10
had a good afternoon at this crag, some bouldering and some free soloing. found a nice boulder problem but i have no way of identifying it. small amount of broken glass but otherwise in reasonable condition. will be back next week if the weather holds out.
iamhifi - 12/Apr/10
Been up there today an it is covered in glass and beer cans again!!
Louis84 - 18/Oct/08
Many thanks to the BMC guys who took the time out to clean the crag. Looks great now, and has opened up plenty of good climbs. Thanks guys.
Gabe - 20/Aug/07
Recetly cleaned by volunteers of the new 'South Wales BMC area' in May 2007. Around 25 people spent the day there, alot of glass and beer cans removed, along with some holly tree's that blocked alot of climbs. With some more traffic the climbs will improve in quality.
stuwelly85 - 19/Jul/07
Due to the construction of a new road bypass and bridge, the walk from the original parking place is now a little longer. However, for a much shorter walk (3mins) you can now park in the Tredomen Business Park, and walk alongside the new road across the railway line, rejoining the old path to your left. Be careful to find the old path though, and not the new cycle track!
Peter Sheppard - 18/Aug/06
Well worth a visit although there is a lot of broken glass at the bottom and top of the climbs so take care. If youths are hanging around watch out as they have been known to throw bottles down as you are climbing.
Jonathan Barrett - 03/Aug/05
Some good bouldering to be had (I didn't try any routes requiring a rope). If on foot (i.e. having taken the train) I found it easier to approach from a narrow dirt path which leaves the road (A472) to the right a short distance after the housing estate when coming from Ystrad Mynach. This reaches a broader path and the most direct route to the crag is then directly in front of you. Although there were a few local kids hanging around, I had no trouble from them and enjoyed a good few hours on a variety of problems.
Dai - 28/Dec/04
Spent a sunny morning here in october,Parking is about 5 mins walk from the crag. A fantastic little crag with a variety of climbs at different grades/ exposure. Even when the rain did decide to come(dang it!), we spent a good deal of time playing on the boulder problems under the main buttress and could have stayed dry and bouldering into the evening. Very Very Friendly locals around what has become a nicely devolped walking/cycling area and a nice town (it certainly has changed from when I grew up there). Well worth a visit!
uriel - 15/Oct/04
This was the first wall i climbed (apart from indoor). The main routes are quite simply climbed, allthough gear placement is tricky, however, most climbs can be top roped quite easily and are quite enjoyable. The more challenging routes have some bolts allready fixed to the walls. The location is good, and easily accesible by train, and you can easily spend a whole day here climbing and bouldering.
Jonathan Butters - 30/Mar/03
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These details were last updated on 28/Jul/2013

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