An utterly transformed venue since the bolting up of Terminal Overhanging Wall, which gives some superb routes on very steep rock. The quarry contains two large bays split by a smaller recess. The traditional routes in the left-hand bay need a good brush. BAT wall does dry very rapidly after rain, whereas Terminal Overhanging Wall can provide shelter from heavy rain until it seeps.
UPDATE. The crag has now been cleaned and the remainder of the loose rock has been removed.It is much safer now since the demise of the loose section between Basildon Slapper and Rise.
If travelling by car, steps need to be taken to avoid travelling up the one way system in reverse. Approaching from Pontypridd town centre on the A4223, follow the road into the town centre, then follow signs to Graigwen to reach St. Catherine’s church on the right (obvious). Turn right immediately in front of the church and follow the road over a metal bridge. Turn right, then left, signposted White Rock Estate to reach Griagwen place, take the next right and proceed up the hill to White Rock Close.
If on foot, from Pontypridd station, turn left and proceed up to the roundabout. Turn right under the bridge then take the exit up the hill more or less to the top, where it is possible to turn into White Rock Close.
In both cases, take the first road left, and the first left again, then follow the track into the woods between the bungalow and the house about 200m down the road on its left-hand side. Go through the gate, turn right, and follow the higher track into the quarry in about 300m.
|1||Sharpie's traverse.||V3 *|
|2||Striking Twelve||E3 6a *||3|
|3||Striking Twelve||6c *||14|
|4||My New House||6b+ *||3|
|5||Uphill Walker||VS 4b||1|
|6||Sheik Yerbouti||E1 5a||2|
|7||Trillian crack||HVS 5a||3|
|8||Behind The Bikesheds||E3 5c||1|
|9||Short Sharp and the Manic Depressive||6c+ *||2|
|10||Lotta Bottle Direct||E2 6b *||1|
|11||Lotta Bottle||E2 6a||2|
|13||Hear No Evil, See No Evil||VS 4c||1|
|14||Reach For The Sky||E2 5b||1|
|15||Arizona Stan||7a+ *||6|
|17||Basildon Slapper ( Mucky Fingers start )||7b+ *||17|
|18||Round Are Way ( 2 )||7a+ *||17|
|21||Sharpy Unplugged||7b+ ***||13|
|22||Night Train||7b+ *||3|
|23||Enter the Darren||6c+||8|
|24||Autumn Leaves||E3 6a||4|
|26||Sorry Lorry Morry||6a+ **||39|
|27||Juvenile Justice||7a+ *||7|
|28||Boulevard De Alfred Turner (1926)||VS 4c **||16|
|29||Alfred's Variation||VS 4c||3|
|30||Andrew The Zebra||6b||12|
|31||Calling Card||E4 6b *||7|
|32||Stow Crack||HVS 4c||11|
|33||Shaken Not Stirred||6c+ *||27|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|I reckon that first bolt on Basildon was the only thing holding the rock together!|
Paul Rogers - 14/Jun/13
|The first 20 ft of Basildon Slapper,Alive and kicking, and Round are way have been destroyed by a huge rock fall ,Capstan,Rise and the unplugged have not been affected. Take care if you are climbing in that area until things settle down and the exposed rock has been cleaned off.
sharpie - 11/Jun/13
|The first bolt on Basildon spins - probably why the hanger was taken off. New bolt required.|
alan rosier - 03/Sep/10
|The hanger on the first bolt on Basildon has been removed by someone,please take care when climbing this route,Alive and kicking and Round are way,there are some dodgy blocks which will be removed in the near future.Capstan ,Rise,Unplugged,and Enter the Darran are ok but still need care,please return the hanger! Cheers Andy|
sharpie - 21/Jun/10
|nice place to go climbing! great view of Ponty at the top of the crag. Have taken some begginer friends there ans set up a top-rope at the edge of the crag. Was a fun day! Only 20min from Cardiff|
gutsy - 25/Aug/07