Coire an Lochain (Cairngorm)

Climbs 120 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 750m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
A slightly longer approach than its neighbour, Corrie an t'Sneachda, makes this corrie a lot quieter.

Again - some excellent, reliable winter climbing - the steeper nature of this corrie yields some excellent technical mixed climbing and also very good rock-climbing.

Must Dos :

The Vent (II/III)

Y Gully Left Branch (III)

Centre Crack Route (IV,5)

Savage Slit (V,6, Severe)

Access notes
Free access all year.

Be very aware of snow conditions in Corrie an Lochain. The 'Great Slab' is a notorious avalanche

black spot, and should be avoided at all costs should avalanche conditions prevail i.e. during/after heavy snow or thaw.

Guidebooks
Winter Climbs in the Cairngorm (2011), Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), The Cairngorms (2007),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 1 (1998), Scottish Winter Climbs (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Cairngorm Summitsummit 44
 NO.1 BUTTRESS  
3The Rebel AllianceVII 8  
4Iron ButterflyIII 33
5Coronary By-passV 7 *20
6AuricleVS 1
7AuricleVI 7 **48
8VentriloquistHVS 5a *9
9VentriloquistVII 7 **15
10Cardiac ArÍteHVS **7
11Open HeartVIII 9 **3
12VentricleE1 5b *7
13VentricleVII 8 ***13
14Big DaddyVII 8 **4
15Daddy LonglegsHVS 5a **2
16Daddy LonglegsVIII 9 *6
17InventiveIV 5 2
18AdventureV 5 *2
19Lateral ThinkingIV 6  
20HyperventilatorIX 10  
21The VentIII *219
 NO.2 BUTTRESS  
23Vent Rib and TraverseII 3
24Vent Rib DirectIV 7 5
25VentilatorII 110
26Chute RouteV 5 27
27The Milky WayII/III **245
28Minute ManVII 7 1
29Appetite for DestructionV 6 *9
30Demolition ManIV 5 3
31The Andromeda StrainIV 4 2
32Empty SpaceV 5 *3
33AndromedaIV 4 **88
34AstroturferIII 40
35Torque of the DevilVI 8  
36Central Crack RouteIV 5 **99
37The CrackVI 7 **4
38The InquisitionHVS 5a 1
39The InquisitionVI 8 4
40LagopusV 6  
41NivalisIII 5 1
42Snow BuntingIV 5 9
43Crow's Nest CrackIII 5
44The ExecutionerVII 7  
45ReprieveIV 5 * 
46The CouloirI **283
 EWEN BUTTRESS (NO.3 BUTTRESS)  
48Rear EntryIV 5 2
49Ewen ButtressIII **148
50Ewen MeV 5 1
51Ewen Buttress DirectIV 6 **24
52The VagrantVII 7 *3
53After DarkVII 8  
54The MigrantVI 7 ***21
55Migrant DirectVII 8 *1
56Nocando CrackVII 8 ***1
57The VicarE1 5a **1
58The VicarVII 8 **6
59SiberiaE3 5c ** 
60The DemonE2 5b  
61The demonIX 9 ***2
62The Demon DirectIX 9 * 
63Happy TyroleansIX 10 **1
64The Overseer DirectV 6 **26
65The HoarmasterVI 6 ***75
66Hooker's CornerVI 7 **27
67The Snow PimpVIII 9 **1
68ConundrumVI 7 3
69The DeviantV 6 4
70Y-Gully Left BranchIII 43
71StagefrightVI 7 *1
72Grumbling GrooveVI 6 *7
73Never MindHVS 5a  
74Never MindIX 9 ***7
75The Head-hunterVI 6 *4
76Y-Gully Right BranchII 156
 NO.4 BUTTRESS  
78SnuffaluffagusIV 5 *1
79OesophagusIII **63
80TracheotomyVI 7 3
81PufferS 4a  
82PufferV 6 1
83Puffer ExtractV 6 1
84Deep ThroatV 6 ***70
85Watergate ScandalE2 5c ** 
86Swallow-tail PillarHVS 5a *4
87Swallow Tail PillarVII 8 **1
88AqualungVI 7 *3
89Gaffer's GrooveS 6
90Gaffer's GrooveVI 7 3
91TransformerVS 4c  
92TransformerVII 8 *1
93When the Wind BlowsVI 7  
94BulgyVS 4b *7
95BulgyVII 7 **14
96Savage SlitS ***378
97Savage SlitV 6 ***242
98ProreVS 4c **52
99ProreVIII 8 **1
100Prore DirectVII 8 ***3
101Fallout CornerVS 4b **113
102Fallout CornerVI 7 ***62
103Banana WallXII 12 ***2
104War and PeaceHVS 5a  
105War and PeaceVII 8 **13
106ProcastinationS 4a  
107ProcrastinationVII 6 **1
108The Third ManIV 6 *11
109SidewinderIII 4 **49
110Sidewinder DirectIV 6 6
111The Millenium LineVII 7 ** 
112Western RouteS **2
113Western RouteIV 6 ***53
114Occidental discoveryV 7 **3
115Torquing WestVII 7  
116Torquing HeadsVII 7 *5
117Western SlantIV 5  
118Cut AdriftIII 4 2
119Siberian TigerIX 10 ***1
120The GatheringVIII 9 ***2
121The Candy ShopVII 9 **3
122Torque of the DevilVS 4c  
123The CrackVS 4c  
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Note that the name of this crag is actually "Coire an Lochain". Many photographs on ukclimbing.com that use this correct name are mistakenly hyperlinked to Stob Coire nan Lochan in Glencoe.
John Hawkins - 19/Feb/04