Coire an Lochain (Cairngorm)

Climbs 119 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 750m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
A slightly longer approach than its neighbour, Corrie an t'Sneachda, makes this corrie a lot quieter.

Again - some excellent, reliable winter climbing - the steeper nature of this corrie yields some excellent technical mixed climbing and also very good rock-climbing.

Must Dos :

The Vent (II/III)

Y Gully Left Branch (III)

Centre Crack Route (IV,5)

Savage Slit (V,6, Severe)

Access notes
Free access all year.

Be very aware of snow conditions in Corrie an Lochain. The 'Great Slab' is a notorious avalanche

black spot, and should be avoided at all costs should avalanche conditions prevail i.e. during/after heavy snow or thaw.

Guidebooks
Winter Climbs in the Cairngorm (2011), Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), The Cairngorms (2007),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 1 (1998), Scottish Winter Climbs (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 NO.1 BUTTRESS 
2The Rebel AllianceVII 8
3Iron ButterflyIII
4Coronary By-passV 7 *
5AuricleVS
6AuricleVI 7 **
7VentriloquistHVS 5a *
8VentriloquistVII 7 **
9Cardiac ArêteHVS **
10Open HeartVIII 9 **
11VentricleE1 5b *
12VentricleVII 8 ***
13Big DaddyVII 8 **
14Daddy LonglegsHVS 5a **
15Daddy LonglegsVIII 9 *
16InventiveIV 5
17AdventureV 5 *
18Lateral ThinkingIV 6
19HyperventilatorIX 10
20The VentIII *
 NO.2 BUTTRESS 
22Vent Rib and TraverseII
23Vent Rib DirectIV 7
24VentilatorII
25Chute RouteV 5
26The Milky WayII/III **
27Minute ManVII 7
28Appetite for DestructionV 6 *
29Demolition ManIV 5
30The Andromeda StrainIV 4
31Empty SpaceV 5 *
32AndromedaIV 4 **
33AstroturferIII
34Torque of the DevilVI 8
35Central Crack RouteIV 5 **
36The CrackVI 7 **
37The InquisitionHVS 5a
38The InquisitionVI 8
39LagopusV 6
40NivalisIII 5
41Snow BuntingIV 5
42Crow's Nest CrackIII
43The ExecutionerVII 7
44ReprieveIV 5 *
45The CouloirI **
 EWEN BUTTRESS (NO.3 BUTTRESS) 
47Rear EntryIV 5
48Ewen ButtressIII **
49Ewen MeV 5
50Ewen Buttress DirectIV 6 **
51The VagrantVII 7 *
52After DarkVII 8
53The MigrantVI 7 ***
54Migrant DirectVII 8 *
55Nocando CrackVII 8 ***
56The VicarE1 5a **
57The VicarVII 8 **
58SiberiaE3 5c **
59The DemonE2 5b
60The demonIX 9 ***
61The Demon DirectIX 9 *
62Happy TyroleansIX 10 **
63The Overseer DirectV 6 **
64The HoarmasterVI 6 ***
65Hooker's CornerVI 7 **
66The Snow PimpVIII 9 **
67ConundrumVI 7
68The DeviantV 6
69Y-Gully Left BranchIII
70StagefrightVI 7 *
71Grumbling GrooveVI 6 *
72Never MindHVS 5a
73Never MindIX 9 ***
74The Head-hunterVI 6 *
75Y-Gully Right BranchII
 NO.4 BUTTRESS 
77SnuffaluffagusIV 5 *
78OesophagusIII **
79TracheotomyVI 7
80PufferS 4a
81PufferV 6
82Puffer ExtractV 6
83Deep ThroatV 6 ***
84Watergate ScandalE2 5c **
85Swallow-tail PillarHVS 5a *
86Swallow Tail PillarVII 8 **
87AqualungVI 7 *
88Gaffer's GrooveS
89Gaffer's GrooveVI 7
90TransformerVS 4c
91TransformerVII 8 *
92When the Wind BlowsVI 7
93BulgyVS 4b *
94BulgyVII 7 **
95Savage SlitS ***
96Savage SlitV 6 ***
97ProreVS 4c **
98ProreVIII 8 **
99Prore DirectVII 8 ***
100Fallout CornerVS 4b **
101Fallout CornerVI 7 ***
102War and PeaceHVS 5a
103War and PeaceVII 8 **
104ProcastinationS 4a
105ProcrastinationVII 6 **
106The Third ManIV 6 *
107SidewinderIII 4 **
108Sidewinder DirectIV 6
109The Millenium LineVII 7 **
110Western RouteS **
111Western RouteIV 6 ***
112Occidental discoveryV 7 **
113Torquing WestVII 7
114Torquing HeadsVII 7 *
115Western SlantIV 5
116Cut AdriftIII 4
117Central Gully I
118Cairngorm Summitsummit
119Siberian TigerIX 10 ***
120The GatheringVIII 9 ***
121The Candy ShopVII 9 **
122Torque of the DevilVS 4c
123The CrackVS 4c
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Daniel Sutherland

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Note that the name of this crag is actually "Coire an Lochain". Many photographs on ukclimbing.com that use this correct name are mistakenly hyperlinked to Stob Coire nan Lochan in Glencoe.
John Hawkins - 19/Feb/04