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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref NH 982028 (OS Landranger #36)

Coire an Lochain (Cairngorm)

Invernesshire, SCOTLAND

Climbs 116 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 750m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
A slightly longer approach than its neighbour, Corrie an t'Sneachda, makes this corrie a lot quieter.

Again - some excellent, reliable winter climbing - the steeper nature of this corrie yields some excellent technical mixed climbing and also very good rock-climbing.

Must Dos :

The Vent (II/III)

Y Gully Left Branch (III)

Centre Crack Route (IV,5)

Savage Slit (V,6, Severe)

Weather forecast

Today	Sat	Sun	Mon	Tue

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Cairngorms & Monadhliath – Met Office: East Highlands

Guidebooks
Winter Climbs in the Cairngorm (2011), Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), The Cairngorms (2007),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 1 (1998), Scottish Winter Climbs (1996)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	NO.1 BUTTRESS
2	The Rebel Alliance	VII 8
3	Iron Butterfly	III	26
4	Coronary By-pass	V 7 *	12
5	Auricle	VS	1
6	Auricle	VI 7 **	23
7	Ventriloquist	HVS 5a *	4
8	Ventriloquist	VII 7 **	10
9	Cardiac Arête	HVS **	3
10	Open Heart	VIII 9 **	2
11	Ventricle	E1 5b *	6
12	Ventricle	VII 8 ***	9
13	Big Daddy	VII 8 **	3
14	Daddy Longlegs	HVS 5a **	1
15	Daddy Longlegs	VIII 9 *	6
16	Inventive	IV 5	2
17	Adventure	V 5 *	2
18	Lateral Thinking	IV 6
19	The Vent	III *	174
	NO.2 BUTTRESS
21	Vent Rib and Traverse	II	3
22	Vent Rib Direct	IV 7	3
23	Ventilator	II	96
24	Chute Route	V 5	22
25	The Milky Way	II/III **	206
26	Minute Man	VII 7	1
27	Appetite for Destruction	V 6 *	8
28	Demolition Man	IV 5	2
29	The Andromeda Strain	IV 4	1
30	Empty Space	V 5 *	2
31	Andromeda	IV 4	66
32	Astroturfer	III	35
33	Torque of the Devil	VI 8
34	Central Crack Route	IV 5 **	82
35	The Crack	VI 7 **	3
36	The Inquisition	HVS 5a	1
37	The Inquisition	VI 8	3
38	Lagopus	V 6
39	Nivalis	III 5
40	Snow Bunting	IV 5	8
41	Crow's Nest Crack	III	4
42	The Executioner	VII 7
43	Reprieve	IV 5 *
44	The Couloir	I **	245
	EWEN BUTTRESS (NO.3 BUTTRESS)
46	Rear Entry	IV 5	2
47	Ewen Buttress	III **	120
48	Ewen Me	V 5	1
49	Ewen Buttress Direct	IV 6 **	20
50	The Vagrant	VII 7 *	2
51	After Dark	VII 8
52	The Migrant	VI 7 ***	17
53	Migrant Direct	VII 8 *	1
54	Nocando Crack	VII 8 ***	1
55	The Vicar	E1 5a **	1
56	The Vicar	VII 8 **	4
57	Siberia	E3 5c **
58	The Demon	E2 5b
59	The Demon Direct	IX 9 *
60	Happy Tyroleans	IX 10 **	1

	Climb name	Grade	x

61	The Overseer Direct	V 6 **	16
62	The Hoarmaster	VI 6 ***	57
63	Hooker's Corner	VI 7 **	20
64	The Snow Pimp	VIII 9 **	1
65	Conundrum	VI 7	3
66	The Deviant	V 6	3
67	Y-Gully Left Branch	III	41
68	Stagefright	VI 7 *	1
69	Grumbling Groove	VI 6 *	6
70	Never Mind	HVS 5a
71	Never Mind	IX 9 ***	6
72	The Head-hunter	VI 6 *	3
73	Y-Gully Right Branch	II	139
	NO.4 BUTTRESS
75	Oesophagus	III **	58
76	Tracheotomy	VI 7	1
77	Puffer	S 4a
78	Puffer	V 6
79	Puffer Extract	V 6	1
80	Deep Throat	V 6 ***	59
81	Watergate Scandal	E2 5c **
82	Swallow-tail Pillar	HVS 5a *	2
83	Swallow Tail Pillar	VII 8 **	1
84	Aqualung	VI 7 *	3
85	Gaffer's Groove	S	4
86	Gaffer's Groove	VI 7	1
87	Transformer	VS 4c
88	Transformer	VII 8 *	1
89	When the Wind Blows	VI 7
90	Bulgy	VS 4b *	4
91	Bulgy	VII 7 **	11
92	Savage Slit	S ***	288
93	Savage Slit	V 6 ***	189
94	Prore	VS 4c **	41
95	Prore	VIII 8 **	1
96	Prore Direct	VII 8 ***	3
97	Fallout Corner	VS 4b **	90
98	Fallout Corner	VI 7 ***	48
99	War and Peace	HVS 5a
100	War and Peace	VII 8 **	12
101	Procastination	S 4a
102	Procrastination	VII 6 **	1
103	The Third Man	IV 6 *	7
104	Sidewinder	III 4 **	41
105	Sidewinder Direct	IV 6	5
106	The Millenium Line	VII 7 **
107	Western Route	S **	1
108	Western Route	IV 6 ***	39
109	Occidental discovery	V 7 **	3
110	Torquing West	VII 7
111	Torquing Heads	VII 7 *	2
112	Western Slant	IV 5
113	Cut Adrift	III 4	1
114	Central Gully *	I
115	Cairngorm Summit	summit	20
116	Siberian Tiger	IX 10 ***	1
117	The Gathering	VIII 9 ***	1
118	The Candy Shop	VII 9 **	1
119	Torque of the Devil	VS 4c
120	The Crack	VS 4c

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Glenmore Lodge
Aviemore, INVERNESSHIRE
"Prices start from £25 per person for B&B in a twin room with a shared bathroom or £33 for en-suite and include use of all on-site facilities:..."
www.glenmorelodge.org.uk

Advertise here

Access notes
Free access all year.

Be very aware of snow conditions in Corrie an Lochain. The 'Great Slab' is a notorious avalanche

black spot, and should be avoided at all costs should avalanche conditions prevail i.e. during/after heavy snow or thaw.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dj_brigham05

USER FEEDBACK

Note that the name of this crag is actually "Coire an Lochain". Many photographs on ukclimbing.com that use this correct name are mistakenly hyperlinked to Stob Coire nan Lochan in Glencoe.
John Hawkins - 19/Feb/04

USER PHOTO GALLERY
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