Falcon Crags (Borrowdale)

Climbs 45 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 180m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Upper Crag up to 90m high, Lower crag up to 60m. Close to the road and a good evening or short day crag. Some routes have a serious feel - the rock is not always entirely sound! Dry Grasp(E4), Route1(E3), Spinup(VS), Hedera Groove(MVS), Niche(E2), Dedication(E1), Kidnapped(E2), Plagiarism(E2), Usurper(E1), Illusion(HVS), Five Nations(E3).

Often bird restrictions in place in spring on the upper crag +/- left side of the lower crag.

Access notes
Upper Crag (base):

Park in the layby beneath the crag. Walk up a faint path to the main horizontal track. Turn right, gain the lowest point of the scree and fight up this to a fence below the left end of the crag. 15 mins.

Upper Crag (abseil for best pitches):

As above to the main horizontal trail. Turn left, cross a bridge and follow the good path uphill until just before the 2nd gate. Cross the stream 30m uphill of this, then head back right until a steep grassy gully with a fallen tree with vertical branches. Slog up this and the grass slopes above to gain the ridge (good view of Route 1), cross the gorse and contour around a trail below the rockband. Skirt of the top of the gully left of the crag and back past a dead tree to a good abseil point. 25 mins.

Lower Crag:

Park in the carpark on the minor road leading off Borrowdale, walk left on a trail then up through scree. 10 mins.

Guidebooks
Lake District Rock (2003), Borrowdale (2000),
Out of print: Borrowdale (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 UPPER FALCON  
2Stumble BumE4 6a *1
3Route 2E1 5b **12
4QantasE3 6a 1
5Dry GraspE4 6a ***33
6Route 1E3 5c ***17
7Walk on the Wild SideHVS 5a * 
 LOWER FALCON  
9the pushHVS 5a 2
10SpinupVS 4c **138
11AlternatorVS 4c 3
12The Raging BullE3 5c 2
13The DanglerE2 5c **32
14GraviterVS 4c 5
15Wuthering HeightsE2 5c 3
16Hedera GroovesVS 4b **153
17Inarticulate SpeechE4 6a  
18CyclotronE3 6a 2
19StretchHVS 5a 25
20Stretch Direct FinishE2 5c 2
21Funeral WayHVS 5a *28
22DeruptusVS 5a 7
23MasqueradeE2 5c **9
24Close EncountersE3 6a *2
25The NicheE2 5c ***98
26Star WarsE3 5c **13
27InterloperE1 5c **46
28PremonitionE4 6a *6
29DedicationE1 5a ***119
30KidnappedE2 5c ***39
31PlagiarismE2 5c ***65
32UsurperE1 5a ***102
33IllusionHVS 5a ***156
34JokeE3 6a **11
35Lamplighter EliminateE4 6b 2
36LamplighterVS 4c *71
37ExtrapolationE2 5b **22
38The RiddlerVS 4c 1
39The Girdle TraverseE1 5b 5
40Five Nations of the IroquoisE3 5c *2
 UNKNOWN/NEED CHECKING  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ctodd

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Great crag. Some unlikely situations for the grades and a nice outlook. Seems a bit under-climbed and under-starred for how good the routes are.
AliBaxter - 17/Jun/15
this crag is a bit loose!
joe king - 12/Jul/10