Climbs 71
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Sun setting over Brean © westyb3

Crag features

South-facing limestone sea cliff, with a range of mainly harder routes. Excellent winter venue. Rock quality good, despite reports of the opposite. Some bolt protected climbs on the back wall of the Boulder Cave.

Approach notes

Tidal. The base of most of the cliffs can be reached except within one or two hours of high tide.

From the A38 or M5 jct 22, take the B3140 to Burham-On-Sea and Berrow from where a minor road runs northwards to a car park below the Down. Don't be tempted to drive across the sands to the base of the cliffs themselves - your car will get stuck, and the tide will do the rest.

The routes at the back wall of Boulder Cave can be reached by abseil at any state of the tide.

The National Trust owns Brean Down and asks climbers to avoid the sand 'cliff' and the rocks adjacent to it, where archaeological finds have been discovered recently

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
a truely perfect winter venue from today's experience.
Stanners - 11/Jan/12
Great crag look forward go returniv and gettng some more quality routes. Is this crag a bit soft though?
Goonie - 14/Jun/10
Despite fear of making this crag even busier, I have to say Brean has again offered a still and dry spot while the rest of the UK suffered from howling winds and heavy bands of rain. Thank you microclimate.
Jon_Warner - 22/Nov/08
"... not strictly speaking sport climbs..." There's a fine collection of safe-as-houses sport routes. Well worth the trip - check out Mark Glaister's article on this website.
Jus - 01/Jul/05
the fort crags are well worth checking out although only about 30ft in height the rock quality is superb, excellent textured rock superb friction and good gear. A nice esoteric spot.
dylan burgess - 25/Aug/04
Cyclop's Slab (HVS), contrary to many guide books, has no stake or tree belays anymore, except a very long way away. Make sure you have plenty of spare rope, or a spare.
Mark Maynard - 27/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Lone Shark
E3 6a 1
HS 4a 1
3Borrowed Time
E1 5c  
4Inwardly Extrovert
S 1
5Do you get Vouchers with This?5c 97
6Brean Dream6a+ *472
7Kraken6b+ *426
8Bikini Atoll6c+ 247
9Coral Sea6c **635
10Chepito7a **539
11Pearl Harbour7a ***577
12Tide Rising7b+ **241
13Three Snaps to HeavenE6 6a 3
E2 5b 4
15Vets' Wall7b 10
16Sargasso Seamonster7a+ 14
17Achtung Torpedo!E5 6b  
18A Heavy Read6b 70
19Clashing Socks7b *127
20KamikazeE5 6a  
21Black Snake Moan8a **51
22Brean Topping8b ***36
23Storm Warning7c+ ***106
24Storm Warning Variation8a **37
25Chulilla7b+ ***251
26Prisoner of Conscience7b+ *70
27The Guilt Edge7c **35
28Prisoner of Bullworker7c+ **20
29The Milky Bar Kid8a *23
30Bullworker7c **90
31Global Solutions7c *15
32El Chocco7c ***98
33The Root of Inequity7a+ **214
34Casino Royale7b+ 39
35Yer Yella!E5 6a **8
36Leaving Hanoi6c 14
37Leaving Aviva7a+ 7
38What the Hell is a Womper?6b+ 8
39Distant VoicesE3 6a *3
40Pinnacle Cracks
S 3
41Cove areteE6 6b **2
42Great CornerE2 5a *13
43Eso Ego Wall
E5 5c 1
44The Tennis Elbow Club
E5 6a 1
45Bones ChimneyE4 5c *2
46Cyclops SlabHVS 4c *30
47Brean Team SpecialE6 6b ***2
48Cyclops Gatepost
VD 2

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