Brean Down

Climbs 71 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
South-facing limestone sea cliff, with a range of mainly harder routes. Excellent winter venue. Rock quality good, despite reports of the opposite. Some bolt protected climbs on the back wall of the Boulder Cave.

Approach notes
Tidal. The base of most of the cliffs can be reached except within one or two hours of high tide.

From the A38 or M5 jct 22, take the B3140 to Burham-On-Sea and Berrow from where a minor road runs northwards to a car park below the Down. Don't be tempted to drive across the sands to the base of the cliffs themselves - your car will get stuck, and the tide will do the rest.

The routes at the back wall of Boulder Cave can be reached by abseil at any state of the tide.

The National Trust owns Brean Down and asks climbers to avoid the sand 'cliff' and the rocks adjacent to it, where archaeological finds have been discovered recently

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Lone SharkE3 6a 1
2Lend-a-handHS 4a 1
3Borrowed TimeE1 5c  
4Inwardly ExtrovertS 1
5Do you get Vouchers with This?5c 92
6Brean Dream6a+ *462
7Kraken6b+ *420
8Bikini Atoll6c+ 245
9Coral Sea6c **619
10Chepito7a **533
11Pearl Harbour7a ***555
12Tide Rising7b+ **222
13Three Snaps to HeavenE6 6a 3
14TorpedoE2 5b 4
15Vets' Wall7b 10
16Sargasso Seamonster7a+ 14
17Achtung Torpedo!E5 6b  
18A Heavy Read6b 67
19Clashing Socks7b *127
20KamikazeE5 6a  
21Black Snake Moan8a **51
22Brean Topping8b ***22
23Storm Warning7c+ ***85
24Storm Warning Variation8a **37
25Chulilla7b+ ***208
26Prisoner of Conscience7b+ *69
27The Guilt Edge7c **34
28Prisoner of Bullworker7c+ **19
29The Milky Bar Kid8a *23
30Bullworker7c **77
31Global Solutions7c *15
32El Chocco7c ***98
33The Root of Inequity7a+ **189
34Casino Royale7b+ 37
35Yer Yella!E5 6a **8
36Leaving Hanoi6c 12
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
a truely perfect winter venue from today's experience.
Stanners - 11/Jan/12
Great crag look forward go returniv and gettng some more quality routes. Is this crag a bit soft though?
Goonie - 14/Jun/10
Despite fear of making this crag even busier, I have to say Brean has again offered a still and dry spot while the rest of the UK suffered from howling winds and heavy bands of rain. Thank you microclimate.
Jon_Warner - 22/Nov/08
"... not strictly speaking sport climbs..." There's a fine collection of safe-as-houses sport routes. Well worth the trip - check out Mark Glaister's article on this website.
Jus - 01/Jul/05
the fort crags are well worth checking out although only about 30ft in height the rock quality is superb, excellent textured rock superb friction and good gear. A nice esoteric spot.
dylan burgess - 25/Aug/04
Cyclop's Slab (HVS), contrary to many guide books, has no stake or tree belays anymore, except a very long way away. Make sure you have plenty of spare rope, or a spare.
Mark Maynard - 27/Nov/02