Climbs 72
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Sun setting over Brean © westyb3

Crag features

South-facing limestone sea cliff, with a range of mainly harder routes. Excellent winter venue. Rock quality good, despite reports of the opposite. Some bolt protected climbs on the back wall of the Boulder Cave.

Approach notes

Tidal. The base of most of the cliffs can be reached except within one or two hours of high tide.

From the A38 or M5 jct 22, take the B3140 to Burham-On-Sea and Berrow from where a minor road runs northwards to a car park below the Down. Don't be tempted to drive across the sands to the base of the cliffs themselves - your car will get stuck, and the tide will do the rest.

The routes at the back wall of Boulder Cave can be reached by abseil at any state of the tide.

The National Trust owns Brean Down and asks climbers to avoid the sand 'cliff' and the rocks adjacent to it, where archaeological finds have been discovered recently

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UKs most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfaxs award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UKs most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
a truely perfect winter venue from today's experience.
Stanners - 11/Jan/12
Great crag look forward go returniv and gettng some more quality routes. Is this crag a bit soft though?
Goonie - 14/Jun/10
Despite fear of making this crag even busier, I have to say Brean has again offered a still and dry spot while the rest of the UK suffered from howling winds and heavy bands of rain. Thank you microclimate.
Jon_Warner - 22/Nov/08
"... not strictly speaking sport climbs..." There's a fine collection of safe-as-houses sport routes. Well worth the trip - check out Mark Glaister's article on this website.
Jus - 01/Jul/05
the fort crags are well worth checking out although only about 30ft in height the rock quality is superb, excellent textured rock superb friction and good gear. A nice esoteric spot.
dylan burgess - 25/Aug/04
Cyclop's Slab (HVS), contrary to many guide books, has no stake or tree belays anymore, except a very long way away. Make sure you have plenty of spare rope, or a spare.
Mark Maynard - 27/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Lone Shark
-
E3 6a 1
2Lend-a-hand
-
HS 4a 1
3Borrowed Time
-
E1 5c  
4Inwardly Extrovert
-
S 1
5Do you get Vouchers with This?5c 116
6Brean Dream6a+ *508
7Kraken6b+ *473
8Bikini Atoll6c+ 285
9Coral Sea6c **702
10Chepito7a **595
11Pearl Harbour7a ***620
12Tide Rising7b+ **249
13Three Snaps to HeavenE6 6a 3
14Torpedo
-
E2 5b 4
15Vets' Wall7b 11
16Sargasso Seamonster7a+ 14
17Achtung Torpedo!E5 6b  
18A Heavy Read6b 88
19Clashing Socks7b *155
20KamikazeE5 6a  
21Black Snake Moan8a **57
22Brean Topping8b ***29
23Storm Warning7c+ ***98
24Storm Warning Variation8a **51
25Chulilla7b+ ***236
26Prisoner of Conscience7b+ *90
27The Guilt Edge7c **37
28Prisoner of Bullworker7c+ **28
29The Milky Bar Kid8a *25
30Prison Break6c+ **7
31Bullworker7c **99
32Global Solutions7c *15
33El Chocco7c ***133
34The Root of Inequity7a+ **217
35Casino Royale7b+ 43
36Yer Yella!E5 6a **8
37Leaving Hanoi6c 17
38Leaving Aviva7a+ 7
39What the Hell is a Womper?6b+ 8
40Distant VoicesE3 6a *3
41Pinnacle Cracks
-
S 3
42Cove areteE6 6b **2
43Great CornerE2 5a *13
44Eso Ego Wall
-
E5 5c 1
45The Tennis Elbow Club
-
E5 6a 1
46Bones ChimneyE4 5c *2
47Cyclops SlabHVS 4c *31
48Brean Team SpecialE6 6b ***2

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