Brean Down Somerset, ENGLAND
Climbs 70 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S
South-facing limestone sea cliff, with a range of mainly harder routes. Excellent winter venue. Rock quality good, despite reports of the opposite. Some bolt protected climbs on the back wall of the Boulder Cave.
Tidal. The base of most of the cliffs can be reached except within one or two hours of high tide.
From the A38 or M5 jct 22, take the B3140 to Burham-On-Sea and Berrow from where a minor road runs northwards to a car park below the Down. Don't be tempted to drive across the sands to the base of the cliffs themselves - your car will get stuck, and the tide will do the rest.
The routes at the back wall of Boulder Cave can be reached by abseil at any state of the tide.
The National Trust owns Brean Down and asks climbers to avoid the sand 'cliff' and the rocks adjacent to it, where archaeological finds have been discovered recently
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
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South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992)
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a truely perfect winter venue from today's experience.
Stanners - 11/Jan/12
Great crag look forward go returniv and gettng some more quality routes. Is this crag a bit soft though?
Goonie - 14/Jun/10
Despite fear of making this crag even busier, I have to say Brean has again offered a still and dry spot while the rest of the UK suffered from howling winds and heavy bands of rain. Thank you microclimate.
Jon_Warner - 22/Nov/08
"... not strictly speaking sport climbs..."
There's a fine collection of safe-as-houses sport routes. Well worth the trip - check out Mark Glaister's article on this website.
Jus - 01/Jul/05
the fort crags are well worth checking out although only about 30ft in height the rock quality is superb, excellent textured rock superb friction and good gear. A nice esoteric spot.
dylan burgess - 25/Aug/04
Cyclop's Slab (HVS), contrary to many guide books, has no stake or tree belays anymore, except a very long way away. Make sure you have plenty of spare rope, or a spare.
Mark Maynard - 27/Nov/02