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These details were last updated on 15/Oct/2012

St. Bees Head

Cumbria, ENGLAND

Climbs 270 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Beautiful location by the sea. Selection of fine sport routes - Nectarine, Toxic Rock, Dreaming of Red Rocks, Fisherman's Friend - and awesome bouldering - Clash of the Titan's, Apiary Arete, Fisherman's Dyno, Hueco Crack...

Many routes have recently been re-bolted, but not all. Beware, the old bolts can be lethal.

Bouldering info here:

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/234-st-bees-head-north.html

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/238-st-bees-head-south.html

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Lake District

Guidebooks
Buttermere and St Bees (2008), Lakes Bouldering (2006), The Lakes - Fax04 (1994), LakesBloc Website

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 *** NORTH HEAD ***  
 OUTLANDS (BOULDERING)  
3Outlanderf7B+ **5
4Overcookedf7A+ **1
5Insubordinationf7A+ *2
6Factor 50f7A+ 2
7Highlander standing startf7A+ **2
8The Queen Anne's Revengef7A+ **3
9Scylaf7B+ * 
 OLD BUOY'S (BOULDERING)  
11Hornblowerf7A *2
12Big Buoy (Stand Start)f7A+ **3
13The Argof7A **3
14Big Buoyf7B **5
15Salt n' Shakef7A+ 2
16The Buoy Who Cried Wolff7A 2
17Old Buoy's Traversef6C+ ***5
18Old buoy's mantlef6B **6
19Fisherman's Fiendf7A+ *2
20Deep Blue Yonderf7B ** 
21Infinite Worldsf7A 2
 APIARY WALL (BOULDERING)  
23Aqua Chocf7A+ *3
24Undercookef7A **49
25Suns of Temperf7C+ ** 
26Undercooke Aretef7A+ **1
27Floating Pointsf7C ** 
28Yellow Desert Screamf7A+ ***32
29Yellow Desert Scream LH Wallf7C **2
30Headbangerf7A **73
31Headbanger (stand up)f6B ***40
32Scaly Man Fishf7B **3
33Red Snapperf7C *1
34The Young Man and the Seaf7A *4
35Problem 1 (Rockfax)V2 2
36Trailer Trashf7C+ ***1
37Apiary AreteV1 5c ***192
38The Traverse (Rockfax)V2 5c *29
39Clash of the Titansf7A+ *32
40Clash Sitterf8A *** 
41Problem 8 (Rockfax)V3 11
42Problem 9 (Rockfax)V2 6a 51
43Problem 10 (Rockfax)V1 5c 83
44Problem 11 (Rockfax)V3 35
45Problem 12 (Rockfax)V0 23
46Problem 13 (Rockfax)V1 5c 52
47Flip Flop Traverse / Problem 14 (Rockfax)f6C 18
48Manx Wall / Problem 16 (Rockfax)f7B+  
49Problem 17 (Rockfax)V2 6a 13
50Problem 18 (Rockfax)V1 5c 25
51Problem 19 (Rockfax)V3 *26
52Phat Arete / Problem 20 (Rockfax)f6C *50
53Phat Ramp / Problem 21 (Rockfax)f6C+ 39
54Problem 22 (Rockfax)V5 43
55Boulder H - Problem 5 (LakesBloc)f6C+ 10
56Problem 23 (Rockfax)V2 6a 73
57Problem 24 (Rockfax)V2 43
58Problem 25 (Rockfax)V1 5c 74
59Chipper's Wallf7A+ **32
60The Rail / Problem 28 (Rockfax)f6C+ 57
61Problem 29 (Rockfax)V4 *23
62Problem 30 (Rockfax)V3 *23
63Problem 31 (Rockfax)VB 49
64Boulder K - Problem 9 (LakesBloc)f6C+ 12
65Problem 32 (Rockfax)V1 5c 41
66Boulder K - Problem 11 (LakesBloc)f6B+ 3
67Problem 33 (Rockfax)V1 5c 38
68Problem 34 (Rockfax)V4 *18
69Problem 35 (Rockfax)V0 5b 58
70Problem 35a (Rockfax)VB 15
71Problem 36 (Rockfax)V1 5c 79
72Problem 37 (Rockfax)V3 *42
73Problem 38 (Rockfax)V6 **30
74Problem 39 (Rockfax)V3 6a 43
75Problem 41 (Rockfax)V6 *30
76By the Power of RAAAf7C+ **1
77Block Traverse - Problem 40 (Rockfax)f6B+ 61
78Kiss Kiss Bang Bangf7C *5
79The Legend of Oily Johnniesf7A *5
80Dark Side of the Moonf7C *10
81I Cockerhillfont 4+ 1
82Problem 20V4 6b+ *4
83Problem 21V5 6c+ **3
 APIARY WALL (ROUTES)  
85Absolutely Fabulous6b 8
86Kleeneze6c 1
87Blooming Marvellous6c **12
88Just Nice6a+ 6
89Nectarine6c+ ***4
90Drone7a+ *3
91Virgin Queen7a **1
92Royal Jelly6b 1
93Honey Pot6b+ *4
94Way Out WestE5 6a *1
95Beeswax6b 2
96Swarm7a **3
97Bee Hive6b+ 1
98The Apiarist6b+ **8
99Bee Sting7a ** 
100Foul Brood7a+ *1
101Promenade Crack7b **2
102Aurora6a+ 3
 SCABBY BACK (ROUTES)  
104Megadrive6b+ 6
105The WaspHVS 5b  
106Molly Malone6c **5
107Whisky Galore7a **3
108Rainbow Warrior6b+ **1
109Dave's Route7a+ 1
110Screamadelica7a+  
111The Adventures of Pinocchio7a * 
112Nasal Passage6a * 
113The Steal7a 2
114Route One4 *36
115Natural Habitat6c *1
116Feeling Groovy6c **17
117Route Two4 *27
118Peices of Eight6a *15
119Mr Sandman6a+ **12
120Andy's Route6b 23
121Northern Lights6b+ 5
122Sinking in the West6a+ 28
123Trick or Treat6b+ 18
124Scurvy6a 18
125Army Screamers5+ 28
126Dreaming of Red Rocks7a **42
127Ancient Mariner5+ *29
128Recharge6a+ 24
129Twilight Zone3 20
130Friggin' in the Riggin'6b 3
131Quantum Leap6b+ 3
132Stage Fright6a+ 9
133Legend's Friend5+ 1
134I Wish I Was8a 1
135Frigging Friends6c 1
136Cutlass6c+ *3
137Friday 13th7a *2
138Slash and Grab6b  
139Outsider6a+ *1
140Rank Outsider6b+  
141GypsyVS 5a  
 Climb nameGradex
142Something for the Weekend6b+ *10
143Poseidon7c **1
144Scorpion6a 6
145Fisherman's Friend5 **73
146Chimney Route4+ 11
147Western Crack5+ 9
148Halloween4+ 41
149Happy Friday5 29
150Elysium7b **9
151Toxic Rock7a ***3
152Bee Line6b+ *5
153Nuclear Seepage7b *5
154West Coast CrackVS 4c 3
155Run Wild, Run FreeE5 6a **2
156Driller Killer6a *2
157China Syndrome6a+ 1
158Andy's Route - Right Hand Variation6a+ 5
159Westworld7a+ *3
160GimartinVS 2
161Cave Route R.H7a ***1
 FISHERMAN'S STEPS / MAIN CLIFF (ROUTES)  
163SobrietyHVS 5b  
164Rat WayE4 6a  
165Never Turn Your Back on the SeaE5 6b 2
166Gay TripE1 5b * 
167Pot LuckHVS 5a * 
168OssicleHVS  
169Black PearlHVS  
170TantalumVS  
171Castaway7c **1
 FISHERMAN'S STEPS (BOULDERING)  
173Bow Wow Prowf7B **14
174Fisherman's Friendf7B 5
175Problem 1 (N) (Rockfax)V0 5a 7
176Problem 2 (N) (Rockfax)V1 5c 8
177Problem 4 (N) (Rockfax)V3 4
178Problem 3 (N) (Rockfax)V0- 4c 5
179Drop Off / Problem 6 (N) (Rockfax)f6C+ 4
180Problem 7 (N) (Rockfax)V4 *13
181Swept Awayf7C *2
182Parky 93f7A *7
183The Aretef7A ***46
184The Arete (ss)f7B ***6
185Swinger / Problem 10 (N) (Rockfax)f7A **10
186Swinger (ss) / Problem 10a (N) (Rockfax)f7B **5
187Problem 12 (N) (Rockfax)V0- 4c 9
188Problem 15 (N) (Rockfax)V3 17
189Problem 16 (N) (Rockfax)V3 *11
190Problem 1 (S) (Rockfax)V1 5c *8
191Fruits de Merf7A+ *14
192Ponyof7C * 
193Alien Flake / Problem 2 (S) (Rockfax)V0 5a **15
194Problem 3 (S) (Rockfax)V0 4c 6
195G BradyV3 12
196Problem 15 (S) (Rockfax)V2 6a 8
197Pockets TraverseV0 27
198Stack and Slapf6C+ **5
199Tender Hooksf7B+ *11
200Tender Bassf8A * 
201Lateral Mindsetf7B+ ***8
202Fisherman's Dynof6A 5c ***122
203Fisherman's Bassf7C+ *** 
204Wobble Bassf8A ** 
205Hueco Crack (ss)f7A ***47
206Hueco Crack (stand up)f6C 5
207Primate Principalsf7A+ *3
208Cave Route Xf7B 1
209Tim's Crackf7C **4
210Straight Outta Rowrahf7C+ ** 
211Hueco Crackf7A 37
212Left Crackf6B+ **17
213Cave Boulder 2, Problem 2font 5 2
 FAR SOUTH (BOULDERING)  
215Water Worldf7B ***2
216Face Warpf6C+ *7
217Far Side / Problem 6 (Rockfax)font 5+ *3
218The CornerV1 *9
219The TramlinesV0 **12
220SlantyV3 **6
221Whiteface LeftV3 *7
222Whiteface CentreV0 *7
223Whiteface RightV1 *6
224Fire Islandf7B+ *3
225Gravity Wavef7A+ *4
226New Wavef7C **1
227The Legend of Old Greggf7A+ *4
228Cage Fighter (with block)f7B **1
 FLESWICK BUTTRESS (ROUTES)  
230Sink the Bismark7b ***1
231Sea of Sands7c **1
232Z Climb7a+ **2
233The Sea Shall Not Have Them6c+ **1
 *** SOUTH HEAD ***  
235Red Whalef6A+ **5
236Orcaf7A+ *4
237Orca - right hand exitf6C+ 2
238Problem 3 - Missing Corner Blockf6A+ 2
239The Krakenf7A+ ***17
240The Kraken LHf7A+ **12
241Problem 4, Kraken Boulderfont 4 1
242Monster Slapfont 5 2
243The Scoopfont 5+ 5
244Hueco Curvef6C+ *12
245Kill Switchf7A+ *13
246Bottomless Aretef6B+ *12
247Killer Beef7B+ ***9
248Dead Calmf7B **14
249Jolly Rogered Rancherfont 5 *1
250Toxic Crusaderf7A+ *2
251Supposition Testf7B **6
252Calico Jackf6A ***3
253Kamikaze Caterpillarf6B 1
254Iron Hide Stand-upf7A **5
255Honeycombf7B 8
256Tale of the Talbot'sf7B+ ** 
257Master at Armsf7B+ * 
258Drunken Sailorf7A+  
259The Rangerf6C+ * 
260Monkey's Fistf6C *1
261Weather Eye Aretef7A+  
262Vanishing Anglef6A+ ***7
263Liberty's Endf7A 3
264Red Whale (Extension)f6B+ 4
265Problem 1, Platform Blockfont 5 2
266Seaward Slopesf6B 7
267Problem 4, Platform Blockf6A+ 2
268Yellowcakef7C ***4
269Californiumf7B *1
270Iron Hide (SS)f8A ***1
271Triassic Parkf7B **1
272Davy Jones' Lockerf7B+ **2
273Black Holef6C 6
274Godzillaf6C 6
275Punching Judyf7B+ 2
276Black Hole SSf7A+ 5
277Black Dynamitef7B *1
278Snowprooff7A+ *1
279Freebooterf7A *1
280The Scoop (Cryptozoo)f6C+ *2
281Left Arete of Kiss Kiss Bang Bang *f7A *2

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Cliffs are owned by the RSPB. Take heed of the access agreement detailed in the guidebook. (Bird Bans etc). 15 minute approach.

Southern climbers descent (by lighthouse - above apiary wall) has been badly damaged by erosion and rockfall in recent floods and is quite dangerous. I recommend using the alternative descent path about 100m further north.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Greg Chapman ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Was at the crag on 29/10/2012. Sizeable fresh-looking rock fall in gully down to the boulders. Rock all over the place, so didn't trust any of the manky fixed ropes. The "path" has taken a battering, making it a fair bit worse. Care advised on the way down!
PeakDJ ? - 30/Oct/12

The walk in down the slopes is horrendous! especially when windy. An easier walk can be found if rather than crossing by the stile at the foghorn continue until the next style - here you can log you mats down safely. FANTASTIC place though!!
Fluvial ? - 27/Aug/11

just checked the guide, the route was the 'Ancient Mariner'
SGD ? - 24/May/11

I was at this crag on the 18/5 climbing one of the 1st routes on the approach (lovely layback crack given 5+/E1 in the selected guide) which is outside of the restricted bird ban area. Anyway, there are gulls nesting on the ledge about 10m up, you can't see them from the ground but they are there.
SGD ? - 24/May/11

As part of the work of the Cumbria Bolt Fund we where there on Sunday 4th April and have replaced a number of lower offs on the Apiary Wall area. There is still allot of work to be done before the climbs all have new bolts in though so watch this space. For more info go to... www.cumbriaboltfund.com
Dan Robinson ? - 07/Apr/10

Parking is now £2 at the farm.
bentley's biceps ? - 01/Mar/09