St. Bees Head

Climbs 294 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Beautiful location by the sea. Selection of fine sport routes - Nectarine, Toxic Rock, Dreaming of Red Rocks, Fisherman's Friend - and awesome bouldering - Clash of the Titan's, Apiary Arete, Fisherman's Dyno, Hueco Crack...

Many routes have recently been re-bolted, but not all. Beware, the old bolts can be lethal.

Bouldering info here:

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/234-st-bees-head-north.html

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/238-st-bees-head-south.html

A few of the blocks across the southern area have been shifted by storm-waters, e.g. Kracken line squashed against rear blocks. Still well worth the visit.

Access notes
Cliffs are owned by the RSPB. Take heed of the access agreement detailed in the guidebook. (Bird Bans etc). 15 minute approach.

Southern climbers descent (by lighthouse - above apiary wall) has been badly damaged by erosion and rockfall in recent floods and is quite dangerous. I recommend using the alternative descent path about 100m further north.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Buttermere and St Bees (2008), Lakes Bouldering (2006), The Lakes - Fax04 (1994), LakesBloc Website

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 *** NORTH HEAD ***  
 OUTLANDS (BOULDERING)  
3Outlanderf7B+ **6
4Overcookedf7A+ **2
5Insubordinationf7A+ *3
6Factor 50f7A+ 3
7Highlanderf7C **1
8Highlander standing startf7A+ **3
9The Queen Anne's Revengef7A+ **4
10Scylaf7B+ *2
 OLD BUOY'S (BOULDERING)  
12Bee to a Honey Potf7A+ **2
13Modulatorf7C **5
14Buoyz in the Hoodf7B **7
15Lost Buoysf7C *2
16Hornblowerf7A *4
17Big Buoy (Stand Start)f7A+ **5
18The Argof7A **8
19Baron Greenbackf7A+ 2
20Big Buoyf7B **8
21Salt n' Shakef7A+ 6
22The Buoy Who Cried Wolff7A 3
23Old Buoy's Traversef6C+ ***7
24Old buoy's mantlef6B **8
25Fisherman's Fiendf7A+ *6
26Deep Blue Yonderf7B **1
27Infinite Worldsf7A 2
28Rent Buoysf7A *4
29The Brinyf6A+ 1
 APIARY WALL (BOULDERING)  
31Aqua Chocf7A+ *4
32Undercookef7A **56
33Suns of Temperf7C+ ** 
34Undercooke Aretef7A+ **5
35Floating Pointsf7C **3
36Yellow Desert Screamf7B+ ***51
37Yellow Desert Scream LH Wallf7C **4
38Headbangerf7B+ ***108
39Headbanger (stand up)f6B ***62
40Scaly Man Fishf7B **5
41Red Snapperf7C *2
42The Young Man and the Seaf7A *8
43Problem 1 (Rockfax)V2 6
44Trailer Trashf7C+ ***2
45Apiary Aretef5 5c ***255
46The Traverse (Rockfax)V2 5c *35
47Clash of the Titansf7B+ **43
48Clash Sitterf8A *** 
49Problem 8 (Rockfax)V3 18
50Problem 9 (Rockfax)V2 6a 80
51Problem 10 (Rockfax)V1 5c 118
52Problem 11 (Rockfax)V3 58
53Problem 12 (Rockfax)V0 35
54Problem 13 (Rockfax)f5 5c *72
55Flip Flop Traverse / Problem 14 (Rockfax)f7A *34
56Manx Wall / Problem 16 (Rockfax)f7B+  
57Problem 17 (Rockfax)V2 6a 16
58Problem 18 (Rockfax)V1 5c 30
59Problem 19 (Rockfax)V3 *31
60Phat Arete / Problem 20 (Rockfax)f6C *82
61Phat Ramp / Problem 21 (Rockfax)f6C+ 62
62Problem 22 (Rockfax)V5 53
63Boulder H - Problem 5 (LakesBloc)f6C+ 22
64Problem 23 (Rockfax)V2 6a 93
65Problem 24 (Rockfax)V2 55
66Problem 25 (Rockfax)V1 5c 99
67Chipper's Wallf7A+ ***43
68The Rail / Problem 28 (Rockfax)f6C+ 72
69Problem 29 (Rockfax)V4 *35
70Problem 30 (Rockfax)V3 *38
71Problem 31 (Rockfax)VB 66
72Boulder K - Problem 9 (LakesBloc)f6C+ 22
73Problem 32 (Rockfax)V1 5c 52
74Boulder K - Problem 11 (LakesBloc)f6B+ 8
75Problem 33 (Rockfax)V1 5c 52
76Problem 34 (Rockfax)V4 *26
77Problem 35 (Rockfax)V0 5b 79
78Problem 35a (Rockfax)VB 26
79Problem 36 (Rockfax)V1 5c 106
80Problem 37 (Rockfax)V3 *62
81Problem 38 (Rockfax)V6 **45
82Problem 39 (Rockfax)V3 6a 63
83Problem 41 (Rockfax)V6 *43
84By the Power of RAAAf7C+ **1
85Block Traverse - Problem 40 (Rockfax)f6B *77
86Apiary Wall - Block I - LakesBlocf4+ 3
87Apriary Wall - Block L - Problem 2 - Lakes BlocV5 4
88Kiss Kiss Bang Bangf7C *6
89Left Arete of Kiss Kiss Bang Bangf6C+ *18
90Kiss Kiss Bye Byef6B 1
91The Legend of Oily Johnniesf7A *8
92Dark Side of the Moonf7C *15
93I Cockerhillf4+ 4
94Problem 20f6B *7
95Problem 21f6C **6
 APIARY WALL (ROUTES)  
97Absolutely Fabulous6b 13
98Kleeneze6c 1
99Blooming Marvellous6c **14
100Just Nice6a+ 8
101Nectarine6c+ ***9
102Drone7a+ *4
103Virgin Queen7a **1
104Royal Jelly6b 1
105Honey Pot6b+ *7
106Way Out WestE5 6a *1
107Beeswax6b 3
108Swarm7a **3
109Bee Hive6b+ 2
110The Apiarist6b+ **11
111Bee Sting7a ** 
112Foul Brood7a+ *1
113Promenade Crack7b **2
114Aurora6a+ 5
 SCABBY BACK (ROUTES)  
116Megadrive6b+ 10
117The WaspHVS 5b  
118Molly Malone6c **6
119Whisky Galore7a **5
120Rainbow Warrior6b+ **3
121Dave's Route7a+ 2
122Screamadelica7a+ 1
123The Adventures of Pinocchio7a *2
124Nasal Passage6a *1
125The Steal7a 2
126Route One4a *47
127Natural Habitat6c *1
128Feeling Groovy6c **21
129Route Two4a *32
130Peices of Eight6a *24
131Mr Sandman6a+ **14
132Andy's Route6b 28
133Northern Lights6b+ 7
134Sinking in the West6a+ 31
135Trick or Treat6b+ 23
136Scurvy6a 24
137Army Screamers5c 34
138Dreaming of Red Rocks7a **47
139Ancient Mariner5c *47
140Recharge6a+ 31
141Twilight Zone3 26
142Friggin' in the Riggin'6b 4
143Quantum Leap6b+ 6
144Stage Fright6a+ 13
145Legend's Friend5c 2
146I Wish I Was8a 1
147Frigging Friends6c 1
148Cutlass6c+ *3
149Friday 13th7a *3
150Slash and Grab6b 1
151Outsider6a+ *1
152Rank Outsider6b+  
153GypsyVS 5a  
154Something for the Weekend6b+ *10
155Poseidon7c **1
156Scorpion6a 9
157Fisherman's Friend5a **97
158Chimney Route4c 14
159Western Crack5c 11
160Halloween4c 47
161Happy Friday5a 33
162Elysium7b **14
163Toxic Rock7a ***5
164Bee Line6b+ *9
165Nuclear Seepage7b *5
166West Coast CrackVS 4c 4
167Run Wild, Run FreeE5 6a **2
168Driller Killer6a *4
169China Syndrome6a+ 2
170Andy's Route - Right Hand Variation6a+ 7
171Westworld7a+ *3
172GimartinVS 2
173Cave Route R.H7a ***1
 FISHERMAN'S STEPS / MAIN CLIFF (ROUTES)  
175SobrietyHVS 5b  
176Rat WayE4 6a  
177Never Turn Your Back on the SeaE5 6b 2
178Gay TripE1 5b *1
179Pot LuckHVS 5a * 
180OssicleHVS  
181Black PearlHVS 1
182TantalumVS 1
183Castaway7c **1
 FISHERMAN'S STEPS (BOULDERING)  
185Bow Wow Prowf7B **17
186Fisherman's Friendf7B 7
187Problem 1 (N) (Rockfax)f5 5c *10
188Problem 2 (N) (Rockfax)V1 5c 11
189Problem 4 (N) (Rockfax)V3 4
190Problem 3 (F-Steps N)V1 5c 2
191Problem 3 (N) (Rockfax)V0- 4c 5
192Drop Off / Problem 6 (N) (Rockfax)f6C+ 4
193Problem 7 (N) (Rockfax)V4 *17
194Swept Awayf7C *5
195Parky 93f7A 16
196The Aretef7A ***52
197The Arete (ss)f7B ***10
198Swinger / Problem 10 (N) (Rockfax)f7A **13
199Swinger (ss) / Problem 10a (N) (Rockfax)f7B **6
200Problem 12 (N) (Rockfax)V0- 4c 11
201Problem 15 (N) (Rockfax)f6A 30
202Problem 16 (N) (Rockfax)V3 *13
203Problem 1 (S) (Rockfax)V1 5c *12
204Fruits de Merf7A+ *25
205Ponyof7C *1
206Alien Flake / Problem 2 (S) (Rockfax)f4 5a **20
207Problem 3 (S) (Rockfax)V0 4c 7
208G Bradyf6A 14
209Problem 15 (S) (Rockfax)f5+ 6a 10
210Pockets Traversef3+ 4c 30
211T-Bone Crackf6A 2
212Stack and Slapf6C+ **5
213Tender Hooksf7B+ 9 *14
214Tender Bassf8A * 
215Lateral Mindsetf7B+ 9 ***8
216Fisherman's Dynof5+ 6a ***158
217Fisherman's Bassf7C+ *** 
218Wobble Bassf8A ** 
219Hueco Crack (ss)f7A ***58
220Hueco Crack (stand up)f6C 11
221Primate Principalsf7A+ *4
222Cave Route Xf7B 3
223Tim's Crackf7C+ **6
224Straight Outta Rowrahf7C+ ** 
225Hueco Crackf7A+ ***45
226Left Crackf7A **21
227Cave Boulder 2, Problem 2f5 2
 FAR SOUTH (BOULDERING)  
229Water Worldf7B ***5
230Face Warpf6C+ *9
231Far Side / Problem 6 (Rockfax)f5+ *4
232The Cornerf5 5c *11
233The Tramlinesf4+ 5b **17
234Slantyf6A **6
235Whiteface Leftf6A *10
236Whiteface Centref4 5a *10
237Whiteface Rightf5 5c *7
238Fire Islandf7B+ *6
239Gravity Wavef7A+ *6
240New Wavef7C **2
241The Legend of Old Greggf7A+ *5
242Cage Fighter (with block)f7B **2
243The Knees Beesf7B **2
244Higher Learningf7C ***2
245Solf7C+ ***1
 FLESWICK BUTTRESS (ROUTES)  
247Sink the Bismark7b ***1
248Sea of Sands7c **1
249Z Climb7a+ **2
250The Sea Shall Not Have Them6c+ **1
 *** SOUTH HEAD ***  
252Sword of Omensf7A+ *2
253Sight Beyond Sightf7A+ 2
254Red Whalef6A+ **5
255Orcaf7A+ *6
256Orca - right hand exitf6C+ 2
257Problem 3 - Missing Corner Blockf6A+ 2
258The Krakenf7A+ ***20
259The Kraken LHf7A+ **15
260Problem 4, Kraken Boulderf4 3
261Monster Slapf5 3
262The Scoopf5+ 8
263Hueco Curvef6C+ *15
264Kill Switchf7A+ *17
265Bottomless Aretef6B+ *13
266Killer Beef7B+ ***10
267Dead Calmf7B **18
268Jolly Rogered Rancherf5 *2
269Toxic Crusaderf7A+ *5
270Supposition Testf7B **7
271Calico Jackf6A ***6
272Kamikaze Caterpillarf6B 1
273Iron Hide Stand-upf7A **6
274Honeycombf7B 12
275Tale of the Talbot'sf7B+ **2
276Tale of the Talbot's (SS)f7C ***3
277Master at Armsf7B+ *2
278Drunken Sailorf7A+ 2
279The Rangerf6C+ *1
280Monkey's Fistf6C *1
281Weather Eye Aretef7A+ 1
282Vanishing Anglef6A+ ***9
283Liberty's Endf7A 4
284Red Whale (Extension)f6B+ 4
285Problem 1, Platform Blockf5 3
286Seaward Slopesf6B 8
287Problem 4, Platform Blockf6A+ 2
288Yellowcakef7C ***5
289Californiumf7B *2
290Iron Hide (SS)f8A ***2
291Triassic Parkf7B **2
292Davy Jones' Lockerf7B+ **5
293Black Holef6C 6
294Godzillaf6C 9
295Punching Judyf7B+ 3
296Black Hole SSf7A+ 6
297Black Dynamitef7B *2
298Snowprooff7A+ *2
299Freebooterf7A *1
300The Scoop (Cryptozoo)f6C+ *4
301Problem 14 (S) (Rockfax)V1 5c *1
302Shark Attackf7B **2
303Death Drives a Taxif7A+ *2
304Moby Dickf7C **1
305Blow Hole (15 Rockfax) *f6C+ 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Greg Chapman

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went on a club trip here a few weeks ago, although the descent was steep, we all managed it okay and the fixed ropes seemed secure and safe. All the problems were in great condition although the routes on the back cliff were dripping wet - they probably take a good few days to dry out after rain.
Morgan P - 24/Mar/15
A few of the blocks at the southern area have shifted in the spring storms. Kracken block pushed up against rear rocks. Still well worth the visit.
rice boy - 06/May/14
Was at the crag on 29/10/2012. Sizeable fresh-looking rock fall in gully down to the boulders. Rock all over the place, so didn't trust any of the manky fixed ropes. The "path" has taken a battering, making it a fair bit worse. Care advised on the way down!
PeakDJ - 30/Oct/12
The walk in down the slopes is horrendous! especially when windy. An easier walk can be found if rather than crossing by the stile at the foghorn continue until the next style - here you can log you mats down safely. FANTASTIC place though!!
Fluvial - 27/Aug/11
just checked the guide, the route was the 'Ancient Mariner'
SGD - 24/May/11
I was at this crag on the 18/5 climbing one of the 1st routes on the approach (lovely layback crack given 5+/E1 in the selected guide) which is outside of the restricted bird ban area. Anyway, there are gulls nesting on the ledge about 10m up, you can't see them from the ground but they are there.
SGD - 24/May/11
As part of the work of the Cumbria Bolt Fund we where there on Sunday 4th April and have replaced a number of lower offs on the Apiary Wall area. There is still allot of work to be done before the climbs all have new bolts in though so watch this space. For more info go to... www.cumbriaboltfund.com
Dan Robinson - 07/Apr/10
Parking is now 2 at the farm.
bentley's biceps - 01/Mar/09