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These details were last updated on 06/May/2014

St. Bees Head

Cumbria, ENGLAND

Climbs 284 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Beautiful location by the sea. Selection of fine sport routes - Nectarine, Toxic Rock, Dreaming of Red Rocks, Fisherman's Friend - and awesome bouldering - Clash of the Titan's, Apiary Arete, Fisherman's Dyno, Hueco Crack...

Many routes have recently been re-bolted, but not all. Beware, the old bolts can be lethal.

Bouldering info here:

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/234-st-bees-head-north.html

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/238-st-bees-head-south.html

A few of the blocks across the southern area have been shifted by storm-waters, e.g. Kracken line squashed against rear blocks. Still well worth the visit.

Access notes
Cliffs are owned by the RSPB. Take heed of the access agreement detailed in the guidebook. (Bird Bans etc). 15 minute approach.

Southern climbers descent (by lighthouse - above apiary wall) has been badly damaged by erosion and rockfall in recent floods and is quite dangerous. I recommend using the alternative descent path about 100m further north.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

5.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
14 kph

2.1mm rain
Cloudy
15 °C
14 kph

3.0mm rain
Sunny periods
17 °C
13 kph

1.2mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
18 kph

2.1mm rain
Cloudy
15 °C
21 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Lake District

Guidebooks
Buttermere and St Bees (2008), Lakes Bouldering (2006), The Lakes - Fax04 (1994), LakesBloc Website

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 *** NORTH HEAD ***  
 OUTLANDS (BOULDERING)  
3Outlanderf7B+ **5
4Overcookedf7A+ **1
5Insubordinationf7A+ *2
6Factor 50f7A+ 2
7Highlander standing startf7A+ **2
8The Queen Anne's Revengef7A+ **3
9Scylaf7B+ * 
 OLD BUOY'S (BOULDERING)  
11Modulatorf7C **4
12Buoyz in the Hoodf7B **4
13Lost Buoysf7C *1
14Hornblowerf7A *3
15Big Buoy (Stand Start)f7A+ **4
16The Argof7A **7
17Baron Greenbackf7A+ 1
18Big Buoyf7B **7
19Salt n' Shakef7A+ 5
20The Buoy Who Cried Wolff7A 2
21Old Buoy's Traversef6C+ ***7
22Old buoy's mantlef6B **8
23Fisherman's Fiendf7A+ *3
24Deep Blue Yonderf7B ** 
25Infinite Worldsf7A 2
26Rent Buoysf7A *3
 APIARY WALL (BOULDERING)  
28Aqua Chocf7A+ *3
29Undercookef7A **53
30Suns of Temperf7C+ ** 
31Undercooke Aretef7A+ **3
32Floating Pointsf7C **1
33Yellow Desert Screamf7A+ ***41
34Yellow Desert Scream LH Wallf7C **3
35Headbangerf7A **91
36Headbanger (stand up)f6B ***50
37Scaly Man Fishf7B **4
38Red Snapperf7C *1
39The Young Man and the Seaf7A *4
40Problem 1 (Rockfax)V2 5
41Trailer Trashf7C+ ***2
42Apiary AreteV1 5c ***229
43The Traverse (Rockfax)V2 5c *33
44Clash of the Titansf7A+ *35
45Clash Sitterf8A *** 
46Problem 8 (Rockfax)V3 16
47Problem 9 (Rockfax)V2 6a 70
48Problem 10 (Rockfax)V1 5c 107
49Problem 11 (Rockfax)V3 51
50Problem 12 (Rockfax)V0 30
51Problem 13 (Rockfax)V1 5c 64
52Flip Flop Traverse / Problem 14 (Rockfax)f6C 22
53Manx Wall / Problem 16 (Rockfax)f7B+  
54Problem 17 (Rockfax)V2 6a 15
55Problem 18 (Rockfax)V1 5c 28
56Problem 19 (Rockfax)V3 *29
57Phat Arete / Problem 20 (Rockfax)f6C *69
58Phat Ramp / Problem 21 (Rockfax)f6C+ 53
59Problem 22 (Rockfax)V5 50
60Boulder H - Problem 5 (LakesBloc)f6C+ 16
61Problem 23 (Rockfax)V2 6a 85
62Problem 24 (Rockfax)V2 49
63Problem 25 (Rockfax)V1 5c 93
64Chipper's Wallf7A+ **36
65The Rail / Problem 28 (Rockfax)f6C+ 65
66Problem 29 (Rockfax)V4 *29
67Problem 30 (Rockfax)V3 *29
68Problem 31 (Rockfax)VB 60
69Boulder K - Problem 9 (LakesBloc)f6C+ 18
70Problem 32 (Rockfax)V1 5c 47
71Boulder K - Problem 11 (LakesBloc)f6B+ 5
72Problem 33 (Rockfax)V1 5c 47
73Problem 34 (Rockfax)V4 *22
74Problem 35 (Rockfax)V0 5b 73
75Problem 35a (Rockfax)VB 22
76Problem 36 (Rockfax)V1 5c 102
77Problem 37 (Rockfax)V3 *56
78Problem 38 (Rockfax)V6 **36
79Problem 39 (Rockfax)V3 6a 55
80Problem 41 (Rockfax)V6 *38
81By the Power of RAAAf7C+ **1
82Block Traverse - Problem 40 (Rockfax)f6B+ 68
83Apiary Wall - Block I - LakesBlocf4+ 1
84Apriary Wall - Block L - Problem 2 - Lakes BlocV5 1
85Kiss Kiss Bang Bangf7C *5
86Left Arete of Kiss Kiss Bang Bangf6C+ *5
87The Legend of Oily Johnniesf7A *7
88Dark Side of the Moonf7C *13
89I Cockerhillf4+ 1
90Problem 20V4 6b+ *7
91Problem 21V5 6c+ **6
 APIARY WALL (ROUTES)  
93Absolutely Fabulous6b 12
94Kleeneze6c 1
95Blooming Marvellous6c **13
96Just Nice6a+ 8
97Nectarine6c+ ***6
98Drone7a+ *3
99Virgin Queen7a **1
100Royal Jelly6b 1
101Honey Pot6b+ *6
102Way Out WestE5 6a *1
103Beeswax6b 2
104Swarm7a **3
105Bee Hive6b+ 1
106The Apiarist6b+ **9
107Bee Sting7a ** 
108Foul Brood7a+ *1
109Promenade Crack7b **2
110Aurora6a+ 3
 SCABBY BACK (ROUTES)  
112Megadrive6b+ 8
113The WaspHVS 5b  
114Molly Malone6c **5
115Whisky Galore7a **4
116Rainbow Warrior6b+ **2
117Dave's Route7a+ 2
118Screamadelica7a+ 1
119The Adventures of Pinocchio7a *1
120Nasal Passage6a * 
121The Steal7a 2
122Route One4a *41
123Natural Habitat6c *1
124Feeling Groovy6c **20
125Route Two4a *31
126Peices of Eight6a *22
127Mr Sandman6a+ **13
128Andy's Route6b 26
129Northern Lights6b+ 6
130Sinking in the West6a+ 29
131Trick or Treat6b+ 20
132Scurvy6a 21
133Army Screamers5c 32
134Dreaming of Red Rocks7a **44
135Ancient Mariner5c *40
136Recharge6a+ 28
137Twilight Zone3 22
138Friggin' in the Riggin'6b 4
139Quantum Leap6b+ 4
140Stage Fright6a+ 11
141Legend's Friend5c 1
142I Wish I Was8a 1
143Frigging Friends6c 1
144Cutlass6c+ *3
145Friday 13th7a *3
146Slash and Grab6b 1
147Outsider6a+ *1
148Rank Outsider6b+  
 Climb nameGradex
149GypsyVS 5a  
150Something for the Weekend6b+ *10
151Poseidon7c **1
152Scorpion6a 6
153Fisherman's Friend5a **88
154Chimney Route4c 14
155Western Crack5c 10
156Halloween4c 43
157Happy Friday5a 30
158Elysium7b **12
159Toxic Rock7a ***3
160Bee Line6b+ *7
161Nuclear Seepage7b *5
162West Coast CrackVS 4c 4
163Run Wild, Run FreeE5 6a **2
164Driller Killer6a *2
165China Syndrome6a+ 1
166Andy's Route - Right Hand Variation6a+ 7
167Westworld7a+ *3
168GimartinVS 2
169Cave Route R.H7a ***1
 FISHERMAN'S STEPS / MAIN CLIFF (ROUTES)  
171SobrietyHVS 5b  
172Rat WayE4 6a  
173Never Turn Your Back on the SeaE5 6b 2
174Gay TripE1 5b * 
175Pot LuckHVS 5a * 
176OssicleHVS  
177Black PearlHVS  
178TantalumVS  
179Castaway7c **1
 FISHERMAN'S STEPS (BOULDERING)  
181Bow Wow Prowf7B **15
182Fisherman's Friendf7B 6
183Problem 1 (N) (Rockfax)V0 5a 10
184Problem 2 (N) (Rockfax)V1 5c 10
185Problem 4 (N) (Rockfax)V3 4
186Problem 3 (F-Steps N)V1 5c 1
187Problem 3 (N) (Rockfax)V0- 4c 5
188Drop Off / Problem 6 (N) (Rockfax)f6C+ 4
189Problem 7 (N) (Rockfax)V4 *14
190Swept Awayf7C *3
191Parky 93f7A *9
192The Aretef7A ***48
193The Arete (ss)f7B ***6
194Swinger / Problem 10 (N) (Rockfax)f7A **11
195Swinger (ss) / Problem 10a (N) (Rockfax)f7B **5
196Problem 12 (N) (Rockfax)V0- 4c 11
197Problem 15 (N) (Rockfax)V3 24
198Problem 16 (N) (Rockfax)V3 *12
199Problem 1 (S) (Rockfax)V1 5c *9
200Fruits de Merf7A+ *18
201Ponyof7C * 
202Alien Flake / Problem 2 (S) (Rockfax)V0 5a **19
203Problem 3 (S) (Rockfax)V0 4c 6
204G BradyV3 14
205Problem 15 (S) (Rockfax)V2 6a 10
206Pockets TraverseV0 29
207T-Bone Crackf6A 2
208Stack and Slapf6C+ **5
209Tender Hooksf7B+ *11
210Tender Bassf8A * 
211Lateral Mindsetf7B+ ***8
212Fisherman's Dynof6A 5c ***139
213Fisherman's Bassf7C+ *** 
214Wobble Bassf8A ** 
215Hueco Crack (ss)f7A ***52
216Hueco Crack (stand up)f6C 5
217Primate Principalsf7A+ *3
218Cave Route Xf7B 2
219Tim's Crackf7C **4
220Straight Outta Rowrahf7C+ ** 
221Hueco Crackf7A 41
222Left Crackf6B+ **18
223Cave Boulder 2, Problem 2f5 2
 FAR SOUTH (BOULDERING)  
225Water Worldf7B ***4
226Face Warpf6C+ *9
227Far Side / Problem 6 (Rockfax)f5+ *4
228The CornerV1 *10
229The TramlinesV0 **16
230SlantyV3 **6
231Whiteface LeftV3 *10
232Whiteface CentreV0 *10
233Whiteface RightV1 *7
234Fire Islandf7B+ *5
235Gravity Wavef7A+ *4
236New Wavef7C **1
237The Legend of Old Greggf7A+ *4
238Cage Fighter (with block)f7B **1
 FLESWICK BUTTRESS (ROUTES)  
240Sink the Bismark7b ***1
241Sea of Sands7c **1
242Z Climb7a+ **2
243The Sea Shall Not Have Them6c+ **1
 *** SOUTH HEAD ***  
245Red Whalef6A+ **5
246Orcaf7A+ *4
247Orca - right hand exitf6C+ 2
248Problem 3 - Missing Corner Blockf6A+ 2
249The Krakenf7A+ ***17
250The Kraken LHf7A+ **12
251Problem 4, Kraken Boulderf4 2
252Monster Slapf5 3
253The Scoopf5+ 6
254Hueco Curvef6C+ *12
255Kill Switchf7A+ *13
256Bottomless Aretef6B+ *12
257Killer Beef7B+ ***9
258Dead Calmf7B **17
259Jolly Rogered Rancherf5 *2
260Toxic Crusaderf7A+ *4
261Supposition Testf7B **6
262Calico Jackf6A ***5
263Kamikaze Caterpillarf6B 1
264Iron Hide Stand-upf7A **5
265Honeycombf7B 9
266Tale of the Talbot'sf7B+ ** 
267Master at Armsf7B+ *1
268Drunken Sailorf7A+ 1
269The Rangerf6C+ *1
270Monkey's Fistf6C *1
271Weather Eye Aretef7A+  
272Vanishing Anglef6A+ ***7
273Liberty's Endf7A 3
274Red Whale (Extension)f6B+ 4
275Problem 1, Platform Blockf5 3
276Seaward Slopesf6B 7
277Problem 4, Platform Blockf6A+ 2
278Yellowcakef7C ***4
279Californiumf7B *1
280Iron Hide (SS)f8A ***1
281Triassic Parkf7B **1
282Davy Jones' Lockerf7B+ **2
283Black Holef6C 6
284Godzillaf6C 8
285Punching Judyf7B+ 2
286Black Hole SSf7A+ 5
287Black Dynamitef7B *1
288Snowprooff7A+ *1
289Freebooterf7A *1
290The Scoop (Cryptozoo)f6C+ *3
291Problem 14 (S) (Rockfax)V1 5c *1
292Shark Attackf7B **1
293Death Drives a Taxif7A+ *1
294Gore's chimney traversef8A *** 
295Bee to a honey pot *V7 **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A few of the blocks at the southern area have shifted in the spring storms. Kracken block pushed up against rear rocks. Still well worth the visit.
rice boy - 06/May/14

Was at the crag on 29/10/2012. Sizeable fresh-looking rock fall in gully down to the boulders. Rock all over the place, so didn't trust any of the manky fixed ropes. The "path" has taken a battering, making it a fair bit worse. Care advised on the way down!
PeakDJ - 30/Oct/12

The walk in down the slopes is horrendous! especially when windy. An easier walk can be found if rather than crossing by the stile at the foghorn continue until the next style - here you can log you mats down safely. FANTASTIC place though!!
Fluvial - 27/Aug/11

just checked the guide, the route was the 'Ancient Mariner'
SGD - 24/May/11

I was at this crag on the 18/5 climbing one of the 1st routes on the approach (lovely layback crack given 5+/E1 in the selected guide) which is outside of the restricted bird ban area. Anyway, there are gulls nesting on the ledge about 10m up, you can't see them from the ground but they are there.
SGD - 24/May/11

As part of the work of the Cumbria Bolt Fund we where there on Sunday 4th April and have replaced a number of lower offs on the Apiary Wall area. There is still allot of work to be done before the climbs all have new bolts in though so watch this space. For more info go to... www.cumbriaboltfund.com
Dan Robinson - 07/Apr/10

Parking is now 2 at the farm.
bentley's biceps - 01/Mar/09