Climbs 301
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)

Faces W

St Bees © Alex Messenger

Crag features

Beautiful location by the sea. Selection of fine sport routes - Nectarine, Toxic Rock, Dreaming of Red Rocks, Fisherman's Friend - and awesome bouldering - Clash of the Titan's, Apiary Arete, Fisherman's Dyno, Hueco Crack...

Many routes have recently been re-bolted, but not all. Beware, the old bolts can be lethal.

Bouldering info here:

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/234-st-bees-head-north.html

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/238-st-bees-head-south.html

A few of the blocks across the southern area have been shifted by storm-waters, e.g. Kracken line squashed against rear blocks. Still well worth the visit.

Approach notes

Cliffs are owned by the RSPB. Take heed of the access agreement detailed in the guidebook. (Bird Bans etc). 15 minute approach.

Southern climbers descent (by lighthouse - above apiary wall) has been badly damaged by erosion and rockfall in recent floods and is quite dangerous. I recommend using the alternative descent path about 100m further north.

Access Advice

The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.

Guidebooks

Lakes Bouldering

The first dedicated bouldering guidebook to the Lake District, spanning a range of areas largely in the National Park and all north and west of the M6 junction 36. The guide is intended to be useful to the visiting climber looking for a day or evening's light bouldering just as much as the hard-core local with decent coverage for the V1 and V9 boulderer alike.
More info
Went on a club trip here a few weeks ago, although the descent was steep, we all managed it okay and the fixed ropes seemed secure and safe. All the problems were in great condition although the routes on the back cliff were dripping wet - they probably take a good few days to dry out after rain.
Morgan P - 24/Mar/15
A few of the blocks at the southern area have shifted in the spring storms. Kracken block pushed up against rear rocks. Still well worth the visit.
rice boy - 06/May/14
Was at the crag on 29/10/2012. Sizeable fresh-looking rock fall in gully down to the boulders. Rock all over the place, so didn't trust any of the manky fixed ropes. The "path" has taken a battering, making it a fair bit worse. Care advised on the way down!
PeakDJ - 30/Oct/12
The walk in down the slopes is horrendous! especially when windy. An easier walk can be found if rather than crossing by the stile at the foghorn continue until the next style - here you can log you mats down safely. FANTASTIC place though!!
Fluvial - 27/Aug/11
just checked the guide, the route was the 'Ancient Mariner'
SGD - 24/May/11
I was at this crag on the 18/5 climbing one of the 1st routes on the approach (lovely layback crack given 5+/E1 in the selected guide) which is outside of the restricted bird ban area. Anyway, there are gulls nesting on the ledge about 10m up, you can't see them from the ground but they are there.
SGD - 24/May/11
As part of the work of the Cumbria Bolt Fund we where there on Sunday 4th April and have replaced a number of lower offs on the Apiary Wall area. There is still allot of work to be done before the climbs all have new bolts in though so watch this space. For more info go to... www.cumbriaboltfund.com
Dan Robinson - 07/Apr/10
Parking is now 2 at the farm.
bentley's biceps - 01/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 *** North Head *** 
 Outlands (Bouldering) 
3Outlander
-
f7B+ **6
4Overcookedf7A+ **2
5Insubordination
-
f7A+ *3
6Factor 50
-
f7A+ 3
7Highlander
-
f7C **1
8Highlander standing startf7A+ **3
9The Queen Anne's Revengef7A+ **4
10Scyla
-
f7B+ *2
 Old Buoy's (Bouldering) 
12Bee to a Honey Potf7A+ **3
13Modulator
-
f7C **5
14Buoyz in the Hood
-
f7B **7
15Lost Buoysf7C *2
16Hornblowerf7A *4
17Big Buoy (Stand Start)f7B **6
18Big Buoyf7B+ **8
19The Argof7A *9
20Baron Greenbackf7A+ 2
21Salt n' Shake
-
f7A+ 6
22The Buoy Who Cried Wolf
-
f7A 4
23Old Buoy's Traversef6C+ ***6
24Old buoy's mantlef6B **8
25Fisherman's Fiendf7A+ *6
26Deep Blue Yonderf7B **1
27Infinite Worldsf7A 2
28Rent Buoysf7A *4
29The Briny
-
f6A+ 1
 Apiary Wall (Bouldering) 
31Aqua Choc
-
f7A+ *4
32Undercookef7A **59
33Suns of Temperf7C+ ** 
34Undercooke Aretef7A+ **6
35Floating Points
-
f7C **3
36Yellow Desert Screamf7B+ ***54
37Yellow Desert Scream LH Wallf7C **4
38Headbangerf7B+ ***120
39Headbanger (stand up)f6B ***70
40Scaly Man Fishf7B **5
41Red Snapperf7C *2
42The Young Man and the Seaf7A *10
43Problem 1 (Rockfax)
-
V2 6
44Trailer Trashf7C+ ***2
45Apiary Aretef5 5c ***275
46The Traverse (Rockfax)V2 *37
47Clash of the Titansf7B+ **45
48Clash Sitterf8A *** 
49Problem 8 (Rockfax)V3 20
50Problem 9 (Rockfax)V2 89
51Problem 10 (Rockfax)V1 134
52Problem 11 (Rockfax)V3 67
53Problem 12 (Rockfax)
-
V0 43
54Problem 13 (Rockfax)f5 5c *81
55Flip Flop Traverse / Problem 14 (Rockfax)f7A *34
56Manx Wall / Problem 16 (Rockfax)f7B+  
57Problem 17 (Rockfax)V2 19
58Problem 18 (Rockfax)
-
V1 31
59Problem 19 (Rockfax)
-
V3 *32
60Phat Arete / Problem 20 (Rockfax)f6C *90
61Phat Ramp / Problem 21 (Rockfax)
-
f6C+ 70
62Problem 22 (Rockfax)
-
V5 56
63Boulder H - Problem 5 (LakesBloc)f6C+ 23
64Problem 23 (Rockfax)
-
V2 103
65Problem 24 (Rockfax)
-
V2 62
66Problem 25 (Rockfax)V1 108
67Chipper's Wallf7A+ ***50
68The Rail / Problem 28 (Rockfax)
-
f6C+ 75
69Problem 29 (Rockfax)
-
V4 *39
70Problem 30 (Rockfax)V3 *41
71Problem 31 (Rockfax)
-
VB 73
72Boulder K - Problem 9 (LakesBloc)f6C+ 24
73Problem 32 (Rockfax)
-
V1 60
74Boulder K - Problem 11 (LakesBloc)f6B+ 8
75Problem 33 (Rockfax)
-
V1 59
76Problem 34 (Rockfax)
-
V4 *29
77Problem 35 (Rockfax)
-
V0 87
78Problem 35a (Rockfax)VB 34
79Problem 36 (Rockfax)
-
V1 119
80Problem 37 (Rockfax)V3 *70
81Problem 38 (Rockfax)V6 **50
82Problem 39 (Rockfax)V3 68
83Problem 41 (Rockfax)
-
V6 *47
84By the Power of RAAAf7C+ **1
85Block Traverse - Problem 40 (Rockfax)f6B *82
86Apiary Wall - Block I - LakesBlocf4+ 4
87Apriary Wall - Block L - Problem 2 - Lakes BlocV5 6
88Kiss Kiss Bang Bangf7C *7
89Left Arete of Kiss Kiss Bang Bang
-
f6C+ *18
90Kiss Kiss Bye Byef6B 1
91The Legend of Oily Johnniesf7A *8
92Dark Side of the Moonf7C *16
93I Cockerhillf4+ 4
94Problem 20f6B *7
95Problem 21f6C **6
 Apiary Wall (Routes) 
97Absolutely Fabulous6b 13
98Kleeneze
-
6c 1
99Blooming Marvellous
-
6c **14
100Just Nice
-
6a+ 10
101Nectarine
-
6c+ ***9
102Drone
-
7a+ *4
103Virgin Queen
-
7a **1
104Royal Jelly
-
6b 1
105Honey Pot
-
6b+ *7
106Way Out West
-
E5 6a *1
107Beeswax
-
6b 3
108Swarm
-
7a **3
109Bee Hive
-
6b+ 2
110The Apiarist
-
6b+ **11
111Bee Sting
-
7a ** 
112Foul Brood
-
7a+ *1
113Promenade Crack
-
7b **2
114Aurora6a+ 6
 Scabby Back (Routes) 
116Megadrive
-
6b+ 10
117The Wasp
-
HVS 5b  
118Molly Malone
-
6c **6
119Whisky Galore
-
7a **5
120Rainbow Warrior
-
6b+ **3
121Dave's Route
-
7a+ 2
122Screamadelica
-
7a+ 1
123The Adventures of Pinocchio
-
7a *2
124Nasal Passage
-
6a *1
125The Steal
-
7a 2
126Route One
-
4a *48
127Natural Habitat
-
6c *1
128Feeling Groovy
-
6c **21
129Route Two
-
4a *34
130Peices of Eight
-
6a *25
131Mr Sandman
-
6a+ **15
132Andy's Route
-
6b 29
133Northern Lights
-
6b+ 7
134Sinking in the West
-
6a+ 34
135Trick or Treat
-
6b+ 23
136Scurvy
-
6a 27
137Army Screamers
-
5c 35
138Dreaming of Red Rocks
-
7a **47
139Ancient Mariner
-
5c *49
140Recharge
-
6a+ 32
141Twilight Zone
-
3 27
142Friggin' in the Riggin'
-
6b 4
143Quantum Leap
-
6b+ 6
144Stage Fright
-
6a+ 14
145Legend's Friend
-
5c 2
146I Wish I Was
-
8a 1
147Frigging Friends
-
6c 1
148Cutlass
-
6c+ *3
149Friday 13th
-
7a *3
150Slash and Grab
-
6b 1
151Outsider
-
6a+ *2
152Rank Outsider
-
6b+  
153Gypsy
-
VS 5a  
154Something for the Weekend
-
6b+ *10
155Poseidon7c **1
156Scorpion
-
6a 9
157Fisherman's Friend
-
5a **105
158Chimney Route4c 14
159Western Crack
-
5c 11
160Halloween
-
4c 48
161Happy Friday
-
5a 36
162Elysium7b **14
163Toxic Rock
-
7a ***5
164Bee Line
-
6b+ *9
165Nuclear Seepage7b *5
166West Coast Crack
-
VS 4c 4
167Run Wild, Run Free
-
E5 6a **2
168Driller Killer
-
6a *5
169China Syndrome
-
6a+ 2
170Andy's Route - Right Hand Variation
-
6a+ 7
171Westworld
-
7a+ *3
172Gimartin
-
VS 2
173Cave Route R.H
-
7a ***1
 Fisherman's Steps / Main Cliff (Routes) 
175Sobriety
-
HVS 5b  
176Rat Way
-
E4 6a  
177Never Turn Your Back on the Sea
-
E5 6b 2
178Gay Trip
-
E1 5b *1
179Pot Luck
-
HVS 5a * 
180Ossicle
-
HVS  
181Black Pearl
-
HVS 1
182Tantalum
-
VS 1
183Castaway
-
7c **1
 Fisherman's Steps (Bouldering) 
185Solitary Refinement
-
f7B+ **2
186Bow Wow Prowf7B **20
187Fisherman's Friendf7B 8
188Problem 1 (N) (Rockfax)f5 5c *12
189Problem 2 (N) (Rockfax)V1 14
190Problem 4 (N) (Rockfax)V3 5
191Problem 3 (F-Steps N)
-
V1 2
192Problem 3 (N) (Rockfax)V0- 6
193Drop Off / Problem 6 (N) (Rockfax)
-
f6C+ 4
194Problem 7 (N) (Rockfax)
-
V4 *19
195Swept Away
-
f7C *5
196Parky 93f7A 18
197The Aretef7A ***61
198The Arete (ss)
-
f7B ***10
199Swinger / Problem 10 (N) (Rockfax)f7A **15
200Swinger (ss) / Problem 10a (N) (Rockfax)
-
f7B **6
201Problem 12 (N) (Rockfax)V0- 15
202Problem 15 (N) (Rockfax)f6A 36
203Problem 16 (N) (Rockfax)V3 *13
204Problem 1 (S) (Rockfax)V1 *16
205Fruits de Mer
-
f7A+ *29
206Ponyof7C *1
207Alien Flake / Problem 2 (S) (Rockfax)f4 5a **27
208Problem 3 (S) (Rockfax)
-
V0 10
209G Bradyf6A 16
210Problem 15 (S) (Rockfax)f5+ 6a 11
211Pockets Traversef3+ 4c 31
212T-Bone Crackf6A 3
213Stack and Slapf6C+ **5
214Tender Hooksf7B+ 9 *14
215Tender Bassf8A * 
216Lateral Mindsetf7B+ 9 ***8
217Fisherman's Dynof5+ 6a ***167
218Fisherman's Bassf7C+ *** 
219Wobble Bassf8A ** 
220Hueco Crack (ss)
-
f7A ***68
221Hueco Crack (stand up)
-
f6C 12
222Primate Principals
-
f7A+ *4
223Cave Route X
-
f7B 3
224Tim's Crackf7C+ **7
225Straight Outta Rowrahf7C+ ** 
226Hueco Crackf7A+ ***49
227Left Crackf7A **22
228Cave Boulder 2, Problem 2
-
f5 2
 Far South (Bouldering) 
230Operation Winkle
-
f7B *1
231Water Worldf7B ***5
232Face Warp
-
f6C+ *9
233Far Side / Problem 6 (Rockfax)
-
f5+ *4
234The Cornerf5 5c *12
235The Tramlinesf4+ 5b **18
236Slantyf6A **7
237Whiteface Leftf6A *11
238Whiteface Centref4 5a *10
239Whiteface Rightf5 5c *8
240Fire Island
-
f7B+ *6
241Gravity Wave
-
f7A+ *6
242New Wave
-
f7C **2
243The Legend of Old Gregg
-
f7A+ *5
244Cage Fighter
-
f8A * 
245Cage Fighter (with block)
-
f7B **2
246The Knees Bees
-
f7B **2
247Higher Learning
-
f7C ***2
248Sol
-
f7C+ ***1
 Fleswick Buttress (Routes) 
250Sink the Bismark
-
7b ***1
251Sea of Sands
-
7c **1
252Z Climb
-
7a+ **2
253The Sea Shall Not Have Them
-
6c+ **1
 *** South Head *** 
255Sword of Omens
-
f7A+ *2
256Sight Beyond Sight
-
f7A+ 2
257Red Whalef6A+ **5
258Orcaf7A+ *6
259Orca - right hand exitf6C+ 2
260Problem 3 - Missing Corner Blockf6A+ 2
261The Krakenf7A+ ***20
262The Kraken LHf7A+ **15
263Problem 4, Kraken Boulderf4 3
264Monster Slapf5 3
265The Scoopf5+ 9
266Hueco Curvef6C+ *19
267Kill Switchf7A+ *20
268Bottomless Aretef6B+ *13
269Killer Beef7B+ ***11
270Dead Calmf7B **18
271Jolly Rogered Rancherf5 *2
272Toxic Crusader
-
f7A+ *5
273Supposition Testf7B **7
274Calico Jackf6A ***7
275Kamikaze Caterpillarf6B 1
276Iron Hide Stand-upf7A **6
277Honeycomb
-
f7B 12
278Tale of the Talbot's
-
f7B+ **2
279Tale of the Talbot's (SS)
-
f7C ***3
280Master at Arms
-
f7B+ *2
281Drunken Sailor
-
f7A+ 2
282The Ranger
-
f6C+ *1
283Monkey's Fist
-
f6C *1
284Weather Eye Arete
-
f7A+ 1
285Vanishing Angle
-
f6A+ ***10
286Liberty's End
-
f7A 4
287Red Whale (Extension)f6B+ 4
288Problem 1, Platform Blockf5 3
289Seaward Slopes
-
f6B 10
290Problem 4, Platform Block
-
f6A+ 4
291Yellowcake
-
f7C ***5
292Californium
-
f7B *2
293Iron Hide (SS)
-
f8A ***2
294Triassic Park
-
f7B **2
295Davy Jones' Locker
-
f7B+ **5
296Black Holef6C 6
297Godzillaf6C 11
298Punching Judy
-
f7B+ 3
299Black Hole SS
-
f7A+ 8
300Black Dynamitef7B *2
301Snowproof
-
f7A+ *2
302Freebooterf7A *2
303The Scoop (Cryptozoo)f6C+ *5
304Problem 14 (S) (Rockfax)V1 *1
305Shark Attack
-
f7B **2
306Death Drives a Taxi
-
f7A+ *2
307Moby Dick
-
f7C **1
308Blow Hole (15 Rockfax)f6C+ 3
309Salvage
-
f7C **1
310Pure Shores8a ***1
311Dropping Anchor *f7B *1
312Rascal's Wall *
-
f7B *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Greg Chapman