St. Bees Head

Climbs 291 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Beautiful location by the sea. Selection of fine sport routes - Nectarine, Toxic Rock, Dreaming of Red Rocks, Fisherman's Friend - and awesome bouldering - Clash of the Titan's, Apiary Arete, Fisherman's Dyno, Hueco Crack...

Many routes have recently been re-bolted, but not all. Beware, the old bolts can be lethal.

Bouldering info here:

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/234-st-bees-head-north.html

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/238-st-bees-head-south.html

A few of the blocks across the southern area have been shifted by storm-waters, e.g. Kracken line squashed against rear blocks. Still well worth the visit.

Access notes
Cliffs are owned by the RSPB. Take heed of the access agreement detailed in the guidebook. (Bird Bans etc). 15 minute approach.

Southern climbers descent (by lighthouse - above apiary wall) has been badly damaged by erosion and rockfall in recent floods and is quite dangerous. I recommend using the alternative descent path about 100m further north.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Buttermere and St Bees (2008), Lakes Bouldering (2006), The Lakes - Fax04 (1994), LakesBloc Website

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 *** NORTH HEAD *** 
 OUTLANDS (BOULDERING) 
3Outlanderf7B+ **
4Overcookedf7A+ **
5Insubordinationf7A+ *
6Factor 50f7A+
7Highlander standing startf7A+ **
8The Queen Anne's Revengef7A+ **
9Scylaf7B+ *
 OLD BUOY'S (BOULDERING) 
11Bee to a Honey Potf7A+ **
12Modulatorf7C **
13Buoyz in the Hoodf7B **
14Lost Buoysf7C *
15Hornblowerf7A *
16Big Buoy (Stand Start)f7A+ **
17The Argof7A **
18Baron Greenbackf7A+
19Big Buoyf7B **
20Salt n' Shakef7A+
21The Buoy Who Cried Wolff7A
22Old Buoy's Traversef6C+ ***
23Old buoy's mantlef6B **
24Fisherman's Fiendf7A+ *
25Deep Blue Yonderf7B **
26Infinite Worldsf7A
27Rent Buoysf7A *
 APIARY WALL (BOULDERING) 
29Aqua Chocf7A+ *
30Undercookef7A **
31Suns of Temperf7C+ **
32Undercooke Aretef7A+ **
33Floating Pointsf7C **
34Yellow Desert Screamf7A+ ***
35Yellow Desert Scream LH Wallf7C **
36Headbangerf7A **
37Headbanger (stand up)f6B ***
38Scaly Man Fishf7B **
39Red Snapperf7C *
40The Young Man and the Seaf7A *
41Problem 1 (Rockfax)V2
42Trailer Trashf7C+ ***
43Apiary AreteV1 5c ***
44The Traverse (Rockfax)V2 5c *
45Clash of the Titansf7A+ *
46Clash Sitterf8A ***
47Problem 8 (Rockfax)V3
48Problem 9 (Rockfax)V2 6a
49Problem 10 (Rockfax)V1 5c
50Problem 11 (Rockfax)V3
51Problem 12 (Rockfax)V0
52Problem 13 (Rockfax)V1 5c
53Flip Flop Traverse / Problem 14 (Rockfax)f6C
54Manx Wall / Problem 16 (Rockfax)f7B+
55Problem 17 (Rockfax)V2 6a
56Problem 18 (Rockfax)V1 5c
57Problem 19 (Rockfax)V3 *
58Phat Arete / Problem 20 (Rockfax)f6C *
59Phat Ramp / Problem 21 (Rockfax)f6C+
60Problem 22 (Rockfax)V5
61Boulder H - Problem 5 (LakesBloc)f6C+
62Problem 23 (Rockfax)V2 6a
63Problem 24 (Rockfax)V2
64Problem 25 (Rockfax)V1 5c
65Chipper's Wallf7A+ **
66The Rail / Problem 28 (Rockfax)f6C+
67Problem 29 (Rockfax)V4 *
68Problem 30 (Rockfax)V3 *
69Problem 31 (Rockfax)VB
70Boulder K - Problem 9 (LakesBloc)f6C+
71Problem 32 (Rockfax)V1 5c
72Boulder K - Problem 11 (LakesBloc)f6B+
73Problem 33 (Rockfax)V1 5c
74Problem 34 (Rockfax)V4 *
75Problem 35 (Rockfax)V0 5b
76Problem 35a (Rockfax)VB
77Problem 36 (Rockfax)V1 5c
78Problem 37 (Rockfax)V3 *
79Problem 38 (Rockfax)V6 **
80Problem 39 (Rockfax)V3 6a
81Problem 41 (Rockfax)V6 *
82By the Power of RAAAf7C+ **
83Block Traverse - Problem 40 (Rockfax)f6B+
84Apiary Wall - Block I - LakesBlocf4+
85Apriary Wall - Block L - Problem 2 - Lakes BlocV5
86Kiss Kiss Bang Bangf7C *
87Left Arete of Kiss Kiss Bang Bangf6C+ *
88The Legend of Oily Johnniesf7A *
89Dark Side of the Moonf7C *
90I Cockerhillf4+
91Problem 20V4 6b+ *
92Problem 21V5 6c+ **
 APIARY WALL (ROUTES) 
94Absolutely Fabulous6b
95Kleeneze6c
96Blooming Marvellous6c **
97Just Nice6a+
98Nectarine6c+ ***
99Drone7a+ *
100Virgin Queen7a **
101Royal Jelly6b
102Honey Pot6b+ *
103Way Out WestE5 6a *
104Beeswax6b
105Swarm7a **
106Bee Hive6b+
107The Apiarist6b+ **
108Bee Sting7a **
109Foul Brood7a+ *
110Promenade Crack7b **
111Aurora6a+
 SCABBY BACK (ROUTES) 
113Megadrive6b+
114The WaspHVS 5b
115Molly Malone6c **
116Whisky Galore7a **
117Rainbow Warrior6b+ **
118Dave's Route7a+
119Screamadelica7a+
120The Adventures of Pinocchio7a *
121Nasal Passage6a *
122The Steal7a
123Route One4a *
124Natural Habitat6c *
125Feeling Groovy6c **
126Route Two4a *
127Peices of Eight6a *
128Mr Sandman6a+ **
129Andy's Route6b
130Northern Lights6b+
131Sinking in the West6a+
132Trick or Treat6b+
133Scurvy6a
134Army Screamers5c
135Dreaming of Red Rocks7a **
136Ancient Mariner5c *
137Recharge6a+
138Twilight Zone3
139Friggin' in the Riggin'6b
140Quantum Leap6b+
141Stage Fright6a+
142Legend's Friend5c
143I Wish I Was8a
144Frigging Friends6c
145Cutlass6c+ *
146Friday 13th7a *
147Slash and Grab6b
148Outsider6a+ *
149Rank Outsider6b+
150GypsyVS 5a
151Something for the Weekend6b+ *
152Poseidon7c **
153Scorpion6a
154Fisherman's Friend5a **
155Chimney Route4c
156Western Crack5c
157Halloween4c
158Happy Friday5a
159Elysium7b **
160Toxic Rock7a ***
161Bee Line6b+ *
162Nuclear Seepage7b *
163West Coast CrackVS 4c
164Run Wild, Run FreeE5 6a **
165Driller Killer6a *
166China Syndrome6a+
167Andy's Route - Right Hand Variation6a+
168Westworld7a+ *
169GimartinVS
170Cave Route R.H7a ***
 FISHERMAN'S STEPS / MAIN CLIFF (ROUTES) 
172SobrietyHVS 5b
173Rat WayE4 6a
174Never Turn Your Back on the SeaE5 6b
175Gay TripE1 5b *
176Pot LuckHVS 5a *
177OssicleHVS
178Black PearlHVS
179TantalumVS
180Castaway7c **
 FISHERMAN'S STEPS (BOULDERING) 
182Bow Wow Prowf7B **
183Fisherman's Friendf7B
184Problem 1 (N) (Rockfax)V0 5a
185Problem 2 (N) (Rockfax)V1 5c
186Problem 4 (N) (Rockfax)V3
187Problem 3 (F-Steps N)V1 5c
188Problem 3 (N) (Rockfax)V0- 4c
189Drop Off / Problem 6 (N) (Rockfax)f6C+
190Problem 7 (N) (Rockfax)V4 *
191Swept Awayf7C *
192Parky 93f7A *
193The Aretef7A ***
194The Arete (ss)f7B ***
195Swinger / Problem 10 (N) (Rockfax)f7A **
196Swinger (ss) / Problem 10a (N) (Rockfax)f7B **
197Problem 12 (N) (Rockfax)V0- 4c
198Problem 15 (N) (Rockfax)V3
199Problem 16 (N) (Rockfax)V3 *
200Problem 1 (S) (Rockfax)V1 5c *
201Fruits de Merf7A+ *
202Ponyof7C *
203Alien Flake / Problem 2 (S) (Rockfax)V0 5a **
204Problem 3 (S) (Rockfax)V0 4c
205G BradyV3
206Problem 15 (S) (Rockfax)V2 6a
207Pockets TraverseV0
208T-Bone Crackf6A
209Stack and Slapf6C+ **
210Tender Hooksf7B+ *
211Tender Bassf8A *
212Lateral Mindsetf7B+ ***
213Fisherman's Dynof6A 5c ***
214Fisherman's Bassf7C+ ***
215Wobble Bassf8A **
216Hueco Crack (ss)f7A ***
217Hueco Crack (stand up)f6C
218Primate Principalsf7A+ *
219Cave Route Xf7B
220Tim's Crackf7C **
221Straight Outta Rowrahf7C+ **
222Hueco Crackf7A
223Left Crackf6B+ **
224Cave Boulder 2, Problem 2f5
 FAR SOUTH (BOULDERING) 
226Water Worldf7B ***
227Face Warpf6C+ *
228Far Side / Problem 6 (Rockfax)f5+ *
229The CornerV1 *
230The TramlinesV0 **
231SlantyV3 **
232Whiteface LeftV3 *
233Whiteface CentreV0 *
234Whiteface RightV1 *
235Fire Islandf7B+ *
236Gravity Wavef7A+ *
237New Wavef7C **
238The Legend of Old Greggf7A+ *
239Cage Fighter (with block)f7B **
240The Knees Beesf7B **
241Higher Learningf7C ***
242Solf7C+ ***
 FLESWICK BUTTRESS (ROUTES) 
244Sink the Bismark7b ***
245Sea of Sands7c **
246Z Climb7a+ **
247The Sea Shall Not Have Them6c+ **
 *** SOUTH HEAD *** 
249Sword of Omensf7A+ *
250Sight Beyond Sightf7A+
251Red Whalef6A+ **
252Orcaf7A+ *
253Orca - right hand exitf6C+
254Problem 3 - Missing Corner Blockf6A+
255The Krakenf7A+ ***
256The Kraken LHf7A+ **
257Problem 4, Kraken Boulderf4
258Monster Slapf5
259The Scoopf5+
260Hueco Curvef6C+ *
261Kill Switchf7A+ *
262Bottomless Aretef6B+ *
263Killer Beef7B+ ***
264Dead Calmf7B **
265Jolly Rogered Rancherf5 *
266Toxic Crusaderf7A+ *
267Supposition Testf7B **
268Calico Jackf6A ***
269Kamikaze Caterpillarf6B
270Iron Hide Stand-upf7A **
271Honeycombf7B
272Tale of the Talbot'sf7B+ **
273Tale of the Talbot's (SS)f7C ***
274Master at Armsf7B+ *
275Drunken Sailorf7A+
276The Rangerf6C+ *
277Monkey's Fistf6C *
278Weather Eye Aretef7A+
279Vanishing Anglef6A+ ***
280Liberty's Endf7A
281Red Whale (Extension)f6B+
282Problem 1, Platform Blockf5
283Seaward Slopesf6B
284Problem 4, Platform Blockf6A+
285Yellowcakef7C ***
286Californiumf7B *
287Iron Hide (SS)f8A ***
288Triassic Parkf7B **
289Davy Jones' Lockerf7B+ **
290Black Holef6C
291Godzillaf6C
292Punching Judyf7B+
293Black Hole SSf7A+
294Black Dynamitef7B *
295Snowprooff7A+ *
296Freebooterf7A *
297The Scoop (Cryptozoo)f6C+ *
298Problem 14 (S) (Rockfax)V1 5c *
299Shark Attackf7B **
300Death Drives a Taxif7A+ *
301Gore's chimney traversef8A ***
302Moby Dickf7C **
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Greg Chapman

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A few of the blocks at the southern area have shifted in the spring storms. Kracken block pushed up against rear rocks. Still well worth the visit.
rice boy - 06/May/14
Was at the crag on 29/10/2012. Sizeable fresh-looking rock fall in gully down to the boulders. Rock all over the place, so didn't trust any of the manky fixed ropes. The "path" has taken a battering, making it a fair bit worse. Care advised on the way down!
PeakDJ - 30/Oct/12
The walk in down the slopes is horrendous! especially when windy. An easier walk can be found if rather than crossing by the stile at the foghorn continue until the next style - here you can log you mats down safely. FANTASTIC place though!!
Fluvial - 27/Aug/11
just checked the guide, the route was the 'Ancient Mariner'
SGD - 24/May/11
I was at this crag on the 18/5 climbing one of the 1st routes on the approach (lovely layback crack given 5+/E1 in the selected guide) which is outside of the restricted bird ban area. Anyway, there are gulls nesting on the ledge about 10m up, you can't see them from the ground but they are there.
SGD - 24/May/11
As part of the work of the Cumbria Bolt Fund we where there on Sunday 4th April and have replaced a number of lower offs on the Apiary Wall area. There is still allot of work to be done before the climbs all have new bolts in though so watch this space. For more info go to... www.cumbriaboltfund.com
Dan Robinson - 07/Apr/10
Parking is now 2 at the farm.
bentley's biceps - 01/Mar/09
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 06/May/2014
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