St. Bees Head

Climbs 294 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Beautiful location by the sea. Selection of fine sport routes - Nectarine, Toxic Rock, Dreaming of Red Rocks, Fisherman's Friend - and awesome bouldering - Clash of the Titan's, Apiary Arete, Fisherman's Dyno, Hueco Crack...

Many routes have recently been re-bolted, but not all. Beware, the old bolts can be lethal.

Bouldering info here:

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/234-st-bees-head-north.html

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/238-st-bees-head-south.html

A few of the blocks across the southern area have been shifted by storm-waters, e.g. Kracken line squashed against rear blocks. Still well worth the visit.

Access notes
Cliffs are owned by the RSPB. Take heed of the access agreement detailed in the guidebook. (Bird Bans etc). 15 minute approach.

Southern climbers descent (by lighthouse - above apiary wall) has been badly damaged by erosion and rockfall in recent floods and is quite dangerous. I recommend using the alternative descent path about 100m further north.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Buttermere and St Bees (2008), Lakes Bouldering (2006), The Lakes - Fax04 (1994), LakesBloc Website

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 *** NORTH HEAD ***  
 OUTLANDS (BOULDERING)  
3Outlanderf7B+ **6
4Overcookedf7A+ **2
5Insubordinationf7A+ *3
6Factor 50f7A+ 3
7Highlander standing startf7A+ **3
8The Queen Anne's Revengef7A+ **4
9Scylaf7B+ *1
 OLD BUOY'S (BOULDERING)  
11Bee to a Honey Potf7A+ **2
12Modulatorf7C **5
13Buoyz in the Hoodf7B **7
14Lost Buoysf7C *2
15Hornblowerf7A *4
16Big Buoy (Stand Start)f7A+ **5
17The Argof7A **8
18Baron Greenbackf7A+ 2
19Big Buoyf7B **8
20Salt n' Shakef7A+ 6
21The Buoy Who Cried Wolff7A 3
22Old Buoy's Traversef6C+ ***7
23Old buoy's mantlef6B **8
24Fisherman's Fiendf7A+ *6
25Deep Blue Yonderf7B **1
26Infinite Worldsf7A 2
27Rent Buoysf7A *4
28The Brinyf6A+ 1
 APIARY WALL (BOULDERING)  
30Aqua Chocf7A+ *4
31Undercookef7A **54
32Suns of Temperf7C+ ** 
33Undercooke Aretef7A+ **4
34Floating Pointsf7C **3
35Yellow Desert Screamf7B+ ***51
36Yellow Desert Scream LH Wallf7C **4
37Headbangerf7B+ ***107
38Headbanger (stand up)f6B ***59
39Scaly Man Fishf7B **5
40Red Snapperf7C *2
41The Young Man and the Seaf7A *7
42Problem 1 (Rockfax)V2 5
43Trailer Trashf7C+ ***2
44Apiary Aretef5 5c ***251
45The Traverse (Rockfax)V2 5c *34
46Clash of the Titansf7B+ **43
47Clash Sitterf8A *** 
48Problem 8 (Rockfax)V3 17
49Problem 9 (Rockfax)V2 6a 76
50Problem 10 (Rockfax)V1 5c 113
51Problem 11 (Rockfax)V3 54
52Problem 12 (Rockfax)V0 32
53Problem 13 (Rockfax)f5 5c *69
54Flip Flop Traverse / Problem 14 (Rockfax)f7A *28
55Manx Wall / Problem 16 (Rockfax)f7B+  
56Problem 17 (Rockfax)V2 6a 15
57Problem 18 (Rockfax)V1 5c 29
58Problem 19 (Rockfax)V3 *30
59Phat Arete / Problem 20 (Rockfax)f6C *79
60Phat Ramp / Problem 21 (Rockfax)f6C+ 60
61Problem 22 (Rockfax)V5 52
62Boulder H - Problem 5 (LakesBloc)f6C+ 22
63Problem 23 (Rockfax)V2 6a 90
64Problem 24 (Rockfax)V2 53
65Problem 25 (Rockfax)V1 5c 96
66Chipper's Wallf7A+ ***43
67The Rail / Problem 28 (Rockfax)f6C+ 72
68Problem 29 (Rockfax)V4 *34
69Problem 30 (Rockfax)V3 *35
70Problem 31 (Rockfax)VB 66
71Boulder K - Problem 9 (LakesBloc)f6C+ 21
72Problem 32 (Rockfax)V1 5c 51
73Boulder K - Problem 11 (LakesBloc)f6B+ 8
74Problem 33 (Rockfax)V1 5c 50
75Problem 34 (Rockfax)V4 *25
76Problem 35 (Rockfax)V0 5b 77
77Problem 35a (Rockfax)VB 25
78Problem 36 (Rockfax)V1 5c 106
79Problem 37 (Rockfax)V3 *60
80Problem 38 (Rockfax)V6 **44
81Problem 39 (Rockfax)V3 6a 61
82Problem 41 (Rockfax)V6 *43
83By the Power of RAAAf7C+ **1
84Block Traverse - Problem 40 (Rockfax)f6B *73
85Apiary Wall - Block I - LakesBlocf4+ 3
86Apriary Wall - Block L - Problem 2 - Lakes BlocV5 3
87Kiss Kiss Bang Bangf7C *6
88Left Arete of Kiss Kiss Bang Bangf6C+ *16
89Kiss Kiss Bye Byef6B 1
90The Legend of Oily Johnniesf7A *8
91Dark Side of the Moonf7C *15
92I Cockerhillf4+ 2
93Problem 20f6B *7
94Problem 21f6C **6
 APIARY WALL (ROUTES)  
96Absolutely Fabulous6b 13
97Kleeneze6c 1
98Blooming Marvellous6c **13
99Just Nice6a+ 8
100Nectarine6c+ ***8
101Drone7a+ *3
102Virgin Queen7a **1
103Royal Jelly6b 1
104Honey Pot6b+ *7
105Way Out WestE5 6a *1
106Beeswax6b 2
107Swarm7a **3
108Bee Hive6b+ 2
109The Apiarist6b+ **10
110Bee Sting7a ** 
111Foul Brood7a+ *1
112Promenade Crack7b **2
113Aurora6a+ 4
 SCABBY BACK (ROUTES)  
115Megadrive6b+ 10
116The WaspHVS 5b  
117Molly Malone6c **6
118Whisky Galore7a **5
119Rainbow Warrior6b+ **3
120Dave's Route7a+ 2
121Screamadelica7a+ 1
122The Adventures of Pinocchio7a *2
123Nasal Passage6a *1
124The Steal7a 2
125Route One4a *44
126Natural Habitat6c *1
127Feeling Groovy6c **21
128Route Two4a *32
129Peices of Eight6a *23
130Mr Sandman6a+ **14
131Andy's Route6b 28
132Northern Lights6b+ 7
133Sinking in the West6a+ 30
134Trick or Treat6b+ 23
135Scurvy6a 23
136Army Screamers5c 33
137Dreaming of Red Rocks7a **47
138Ancient Mariner5c *44
139Recharge6a+ 30
140Twilight Zone3 23
141Friggin' in the Riggin'6b 4
142Quantum Leap6b+ 5
143Stage Fright6a+ 12
144Legend's Friend5c 2
145I Wish I Was8a 1
146Frigging Friends6c 1
147Cutlass6c+ *3
148Friday 13th7a *3
149Slash and Grab6b 1
150Outsider6a+ *1
151Rank Outsider6b+  
152GypsyVS 5a  
153Something for the Weekend6b+ *10
154Poseidon7c **1
155Scorpion6a 8
156Fisherman's Friend5a **92
157Chimney Route4c 14
158Western Crack5c 10
159Halloween4c 44
160Happy Friday5a 31
161Elysium7b **13
162Toxic Rock7a ***5
163Bee Line6b+ *7
164Nuclear Seepage7b *5
165West Coast CrackVS 4c 4
166Run Wild, Run FreeE5 6a **2
167Driller Killer6a *3
168China Syndrome6a+ 2
169Andy's Route - Right Hand Variation6a+ 7
170Westworld7a+ *3
171GimartinVS 2
172Cave Route R.H7a ***1
 FISHERMAN'S STEPS / MAIN CLIFF (ROUTES)  
174SobrietyHVS 5b  
175Rat WayE4 6a  
176Never Turn Your Back on the SeaE5 6b 2
177Gay TripE1 5b *1
178Pot LuckHVS 5a * 
179OssicleHVS  
180Black PearlHVS 1
181TantalumVS 1
182Castaway7c **1
 FISHERMAN'S STEPS (BOULDERING)  
184Bow Wow Prowf7B **17
185Fisherman's Friendf7B 7
186Problem 1 (N) (Rockfax)f5 5c *10
187Problem 2 (N) (Rockfax)V1 5c 10
188Problem 4 (N) (Rockfax)V3 4
189Problem 3 (F-Steps N)V1 5c 2
190Problem 3 (N) (Rockfax)V0- 4c 5
191Drop Off / Problem 6 (N) (Rockfax)f6C+ 4
192Problem 7 (N) (Rockfax)V4 *15
193Swept Awayf7C *5
194Parky 93f7A 16
195The Aretef7A ***52
196The Arete (ss)f7B ***10
197Swinger / Problem 10 (N) (Rockfax)f7A **13
198Swinger (ss) / Problem 10a (N) (Rockfax)f7B **6
199Problem 12 (N) (Rockfax)V0- 4c 11
200Problem 15 (N) (Rockfax)f6A 29
201Problem 16 (N) (Rockfax)V3 *12
202Problem 1 (S) (Rockfax)V1 5c *12
203Fruits de Merf7A+ *24
204Ponyof7C *1
205Alien Flake / Problem 2 (S) (Rockfax)f4 5a **20
206Problem 3 (S) (Rockfax)V0 4c 7
207G Bradyf6A 14
208Problem 15 (S) (Rockfax)f5+ 6a 10
209Pockets Traversef3+ 4c 30
210T-Bone Crackf6A 2
211Stack and Slapf6C+ **5
212Tender Hooksf7B+ 9 *13
213Tender Bassf8A * 
214Lateral Mindsetf7B+ 9 ***8
215Fisherman's Dynof5+ 6a ***154
216Fisherman's Bassf7C+ *** 
217Wobble Bassf8A ** 
218Hueco Crack (ss)f7A ***57
219Hueco Crack (stand up)f6C 9
220Primate Principalsf7A+ *4
221Cave Route Xf7B 3
222Tim's Crackf7C+ **5
223Straight Outta Rowrahf7C+ ** 
224Hueco Crackf7A+ ***43
225Left Crackf7A **21
226Cave Boulder 2, Problem 2f5 2
 FAR SOUTH (BOULDERING)  
228Water Worldf7B ***5
229Face Warpf6C+ *9
230Far Side / Problem 6 (Rockfax)f5+ *4
231The Cornerf5 5c *11
232The Tramlinesf4+ 5b **17
233Slantyf6A **6
234Whiteface Leftf6A *10
235Whiteface Centref4 5a *10
236Whiteface Rightf5 5c *7
237Fire Islandf7B+ *6
238Gravity Wavef7A+ *6
239New Wavef7C **2
240The Legend of Old Greggf7A+ *5
241Cage Fighter (with block)f7B **2
242The Knees Beesf7B **2
243Higher Learningf7C ***2
244Solf7C+ ***1
 FLESWICK BUTTRESS (ROUTES)  
246Sink the Bismark7b ***1
247Sea of Sands7c **1
248Z Climb7a+ **2
249The Sea Shall Not Have Them6c+ **1
 *** SOUTH HEAD ***  
251Sword of Omensf7A+ *2
252Sight Beyond Sightf7A+ 2
253Red Whalef6A+ **5
254Orcaf7A+ *6
255Orca - right hand exitf6C+ 2
256Problem 3 - Missing Corner Blockf6A+ 2
257The Krakenf7A+ ***19
258The Kraken LHf7A+ **14
259Problem 4, Kraken Boulderf4 3
260Monster Slapf5 3
261The Scoopf5+ 8
262Hueco Curvef6C+ *15
263Kill Switchf7A+ *17
264Bottomless Aretef6B+ *13
265Killer Beef7B+ ***10
266Dead Calmf7B **18
267Jolly Rogered Rancherf5 *2
268Toxic Crusaderf7A+ *5
269Supposition Testf7B **7
270Calico Jackf6A ***5
271Kamikaze Caterpillarf6B 1
272Iron Hide Stand-upf7A **6
273Honeycombf7B 12
274Tale of the Talbot'sf7B+ **2
275Tale of the Talbot's (SS)f7C ***3
276Master at Armsf7B+ *2
277Drunken Sailorf7A+ 2
278The Rangerf6C+ *1
279Monkey's Fistf6C *1
280Weather Eye Aretef7A+ 1
281Vanishing Anglef6A+ ***8
282Liberty's Endf7A 4
283Red Whale (Extension)f6B+ 4
284Problem 1, Platform Blockf5 3
285Seaward Slopesf6B 8
286Problem 4, Platform Blockf6A+ 2
287Yellowcakef7C ***5
288Californiumf7B *2
289Iron Hide (SS)f8A ***2
290Triassic Parkf7B **2
291Davy Jones' Lockerf7B+ **5
292Black Holef6C 6
293Godzillaf6C 9
294Punching Judyf7B+ 3
295Black Hole SSf7A+ 6
296Black Dynamitef7B *2
297Snowprooff7A+ *2
298Freebooterf7A *1
299The Scoop (Cryptozoo)f6C+ *4
300Problem 14 (S) (Rockfax)V1 5c *1
301Shark Attackf7B **2
302Death Drives a Taxif7A+ *2
303Gore's chimney traversef8A *** 
304Moby Dickf7C **1
305Highlander *f7C **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Greg Chapman

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went on a club trip here a few weeks ago, although the descent was steep, we all managed it okay and the fixed ropes seemed secure and safe. All the problems were in great condition although the routes on the back cliff were dripping wet - they probably take a good few days to dry out after rain.
Morgan P - 24/Mar/15
A few of the blocks at the southern area have shifted in the spring storms. Kracken block pushed up against rear rocks. Still well worth the visit.
rice boy - 06/May/14
Was at the crag on 29/10/2012. Sizeable fresh-looking rock fall in gully down to the boulders. Rock all over the place, so didn't trust any of the manky fixed ropes. The "path" has taken a battering, making it a fair bit worse. Care advised on the way down!
PeakDJ - 30/Oct/12
The walk in down the slopes is horrendous! especially when windy. An easier walk can be found if rather than crossing by the stile at the foghorn continue until the next style - here you can log you mats down safely. FANTASTIC place though!!
Fluvial - 27/Aug/11
just checked the guide, the route was the 'Ancient Mariner'
SGD - 24/May/11
I was at this crag on the 18/5 climbing one of the 1st routes on the approach (lovely layback crack given 5+/E1 in the selected guide) which is outside of the restricted bird ban area. Anyway, there are gulls nesting on the ledge about 10m up, you can't see them from the ground but they are there.
SGD - 24/May/11
As part of the work of the Cumbria Bolt Fund we where there on Sunday 4th April and have replaced a number of lower offs on the Apiary Wall area. There is still allot of work to be done before the climbs all have new bolts in though so watch this space. For more info go to... www.cumbriaboltfund.com
Dan Robinson - 07/Apr/10
Parking is now 2 at the farm.
bentley's biceps - 01/Mar/09