Climbs 316
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)

Faces W

St Bees © Alex Messenger

Crag features

Beautiful location by the sea. Selection of fine sport routes - Nectarine, Toxic Rock, Dreaming of Red Rocks, Fisherman's Friend - and awesome bouldering - Clash of the Titan's, Apiary Arete, Fisherman's Dyno, Hueco Crack...

Many routes have recently been re-bolted, but not all. Beware, the old bolts can be lethal.

Bouldering info here:

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/234-st-bees-head-north.html

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/238-st-bees-head-south.html

A few of the blocks across the southern area have been shifted by storm-waters, e.g. Kracken line squashed against rear blocks. Still well worth the visit.

Approach notes

Cliffs are owned by the RSPB. Take heed of the access agreement detailed in the guidebook. (Bird Bans etc). 15 minute approach.

Southern climbers descent (by lighthouse - above apiary wall) has been badly damaged by erosion and rockfall in recent floods and is quite dangerous. I recommend using the alternative descent path about 100m further north.

Access Advice

The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.

Guidebooks

Lakes Bouldering

The first dedicated bouldering guidebook to the Lake District, spanning a range of areas largely in the National Park and all north and west of the M6 junction 36. The guide is intended to be useful to the visiting climber looking for a day or evening's light bouldering just as much as the hard-core local with decent coverage for the V1 and V9 boulderer alike.
More info
Went on a club trip here a few weeks ago, although the descent was steep, we all managed it okay and the fixed ropes seemed secure and safe. All the problems were in great condition although the routes on the back cliff were dripping wet - they probably take a good few days to dry out after rain.
Morgan P - 24/Mar/15
A few of the blocks at the southern area have shifted in the spring storms. Kracken block pushed up against rear rocks. Still well worth the visit.
rice boy - 06/May/14
Was at the crag on 29/10/2012. Sizeable fresh-looking rock fall in gully down to the boulders. Rock all over the place, so didn't trust any of the manky fixed ropes. The "path" has taken a battering, making it a fair bit worse. Care advised on the way down!
PeakDJ - 30/Oct/12
The walk in down the slopes is horrendous! especially when windy. An easier walk can be found if rather than crossing by the stile at the foghorn continue until the next style - here you can log you mats down safely. FANTASTIC place though!!
Fluvial - 27/Aug/11
just checked the guide, the route was the 'Ancient Mariner'
SGD - 24/May/11
I was at this crag on the 18/5 climbing one of the 1st routes on the approach (lovely layback crack given 5+/E1 in the selected guide) which is outside of the restricted bird ban area. Anyway, there are gulls nesting on the ledge about 10m up, you can't see them from the ground but they are there.
SGD - 24/May/11
As part of the work of the Cumbria Bolt Fund we where there on Sunday 4th April and have replaced a number of lower offs on the Apiary Wall area. There is still allot of work to be done before the climbs all have new bolts in though so watch this space. For more info go to... www.cumbriaboltfund.com
Dan Robinson - 07/Apr/10
Parking is now 2 at the farm.
bentley's biceps - 01/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 *** North Head *** 
 Outlands (Bouldering) 
3Outlander
-
f7B+ **6
4Overcookedf7A+ **2
5Insubordination
-
f7A+ *3
6Depth Perception
-
f8A **1
7Factor 50
-
f7A+ 3
8Highlander
-
f7C **1
9Highlander standing startf7A+ **3
10The Queen Anne's Revengef7A+ **4
11Scyla
-
f7B+ *2
 Old Buoy's (Bouldering) 
13Bee to a Honey Potf7A+ **3
14Jabberjaw
-
f7B+ 1
15Modulator
-
f7C **5
16Salvage
-
f7C **1
17Buoyz in the Hood
-
f7B **7
18Lost Buoysf7C *2
19Hornblowerf7A *4
20Big Buoy (Stand Start)f7B **6
21Big Buoyf7B+ **8
22The Argof7A *9
23Baron Greenbackf7A+ 2
24Salt n' Shake
-
f7A+ 6
25The Buoy Who Cried Wolf
-
f7A 4
26Old Buoy's Traversef6C+ ***6
27Old buoy's mantlef6B **8
28Fisherman's Fiendf7A+ *6
29Deep Blue Yonderf7B **1
30Infinite Worldsf7A 2
31Rent Buoysf7A *4
32The Briny
-
f6A+ 2
 Apiary Wall (Bouldering) 
34Aqua Choc
-
f7A+ *4
35Undercookef7A **60
36Suns of Temperf7C+ ** 
37Undercooke Aretef7A+ **6
38Floating Points
-
f7C **3
39Yellow Desert Screamf7B+ ***55
40Yellow Desert Scream LH Wallf7C **4
41Headbangerf7B+ ***126
42Headbanger (stand up)f6B ***76
43Scaly Man Fishf7B **5
44Red Snapperf7C *2
45The Young Man and the Seaf7A *10
46Problem 1 (Rockfax)
-
V2 7
47Trailer Trashf7C+ ***2
48Apiary Aretef5 5c ***295
49The Traverse (Rockfax)V2 *38
50Clash of the Titansf7B+ **45
51Clash Sitterf8A *** 
52Problem 8 (Rockfax)V3 20
53Problem 9 (Rockfax)V2 91
54Problem 10 (Rockfax)V1 137
55Problem 11 (Rockfax)V3 68
56Problem 12 (Rockfax)
-
V0 43
57Problem 13 (Rockfax)f5 5c *82
58Flip Flop Traverse / Problem 14 (Rockfax)f7A *35
59Manx Wall / Problem 16 (Rockfax)f7B+  
60Problem 17 (Rockfax)V2 20
61Problem 18 (Rockfax)
-
V1 33
62Problem 19 (Rockfax)
-
V3 *32
63Phat Arete / Problem 20 (Rockfax)f6C *91
64Phat Ramp / Problem 21 (Rockfax)
-
f6C+ 70
65Problem 22 (Rockfax)
-
V5 56
66Boulder H - Problem 5 (LakesBloc)f6C+ 23
67Problem 23 (Rockfax)
-
V2 104
68Problem 24 (Rockfax)
-
V2 63
69Problem 25 (Rockfax)V1 108
70Chipper's Wallf7A+ ***50
71The Rail / Problem 28 (Rockfax)
-
f6C+ 78
72Problem 29 (Rockfax)
-
V4 *40
73Problem 30 (Rockfax)V3 *43
74Problem 31 (Rockfax)
-
VB 73
75Boulder K - Problem 9 (LakesBloc)f6C+ 28
76Problem 32 (Rockfax)
-
V1 61
77Boulder K - Problem 11 (LakesBloc)f6B+ 8
78Problem 33 (Rockfax)
-
V1 59
79Problem 34 (Rockfax)
-
V4 *30
80Problem 35 (Rockfax)
-
V0 89
81Problem 35a (Rockfax)VB 34
82Problem 36 (Rockfax)
-
V1 122
83Problem 37 (Rockfax)V3 *72
84Problem 38 (Rockfax)V6 **51
85Problem 39 (Rockfax)V3 69
86Problem 41 (Rockfax)
-
V6 *48
87By the Power of RAAAf7C+ **1
88Block Traverse - Problem 40 (Rockfax)f6B *83
89Apiary Wall - Block I - LakesBlocf4+ 5
90Apriary Wall - Block L - Problem 2 - Lakes BlocV5 10
91Kiss Kiss Bang Bangf7C *7
92Left Arete of Kiss Kiss Bang Bang
-
f6C+ *24
93Kiss Kiss Bye Byef6B 1
94The Legend of Oily Johnniesf7A *8
95Dark Side of the Moonf7C *16
96I Cockerhillf4+ 4
97Problem 20f6B *7
98Problem 21f6C **6
 Apiary Wall (Routes) 
100Absolutely Fabulous6b 14
101Kleeneze
-
6c 1
102Blooming Marvellous
-
6c **16
103Just Nice
-
6a+ 10
104Nectarine
-
6c+ ***9
105Drone
-
7a+ *4
106Virgin Queen
-
7a **1
107Royal Jelly
-
6b 1
108Honey Pot
-
6b+ *8
109Way Out West
-
E5 6a *1
110Beeswax
-
6b 3
111Swarm
-
7a **3
112Bee Hive
-
6b+ 2
113The Apiarist
-
6b+ **14
114Bee Sting
-
7a ** 
115Foul Brood
-
7a+ *1
116Promenade Crack
-
7b **2
117Aurora6a+ 6
 Scabby Back (Routes) 
119Megadrive
-
6b+ 10
120The Wasp
-
HVS 5b  
121Molly Malone
-
6c **6
122Whisky Galore
-
7a **5
123Rainbow Warrior
-
6b+ **3
124Dave's Route
-
7a+ 2
125Screamadelica
-
7a+ 1
126The Adventures of Pinocchio
-
7a *2
127Nasal Passage
-
6a *1
128The Steal
-
7a 2
129Route One
-
4a *49
130Natural Habitat
-
6c *1
131Feeling Groovy
-
6c **21
132Route Two
-
4a *34
133Peices of Eight
-
6a *28
134Mr Sandman
-
6a+ **16
135Andy's Route
-
6b 31
136Northern Lights
-
6b+ 7
137Sinking in the West
-
6a+ 34
138Trick or Treat
-
6b+ 23
139Scurvy
-
6a 28
140Army Screamers
-
5c 36
141Dreaming of Red Rocks
-
7a **47
142Ancient Mariner
-
5c *50
143Recharge
-
6a+ 33
144Twilight Zone
-
3 27
145Friggin' in the Riggin'
-
6b 4
146Quantum Leap
-
6b+ 7
147Stage Fright
-
6a+ 14
148Legend's Friend
-
5c 2
149I Wish I Was
-
8a 1
150Frigging Friends
-
6c 1
151Cutlass
-
6c+ *4
152Friday 13th
-
7a *3
153Slash and Grab
-
6b 1
154Outsider
-
6a+ *2
155Rank Outsider
-
6b+  
156Gypsy
-
VS 5a  
157Something for the Weekend
-
6b+ *10
158Poseidon7c **1
159Scorpion
-
6a 10
160Fisherman's Friend
-
5a **111
161Chimney Route4c 16
162Western Crack
-
5c 11
163Halloween
-
4c 48
164Happy Friday
-
5a 36
165Elysium7b **15
166Toxic Rock
-
7a ***5
167Bee Line
-
6b+ *9
168Nuclear Seepage7b *5
169West Coast Crack
-
VS 4c 6
170Run Wild, Run Free
-
E5 6a **2
171Driller Killer
-
6a *5
172China Syndrome
-
6a+ 2
173Andy's Route - Right Hand Variation
-
6a+ 7
174Westworld
-
7a+ *3
175Gimartin
-
VS 2
176Cave Route R.H
-
7a ***1
 Fisherman's Steps / Main Cliff (Routes) 
178Sobriety
-
HVS 5b  
179Rat Way
-
E4 6a  
180Never Turn Your Back on the Sea
-
E5 6b 2
181Gay Trip
-
E1 5b *1
182Pot Luck
-
HVS 5a * 
183Ossicle
-
HVS  
184Black Pearl
-
HVS 1
185Tantalum
-
VS 1
186Castaway
-
7c **1
 Fisherman's Steps (Bouldering) 
188Out of the Bluef7C+ ***1
189Rascal's Wall
-
f7B *2
190Solitary Refinement
-
f7B+ **3
191Bow Wow Prowf7B **21
192Fisherman's Friendf7B 8
193Problem 1 (N) (Rockfax)f5 5c *12
194Problem 2 (N) (Rockfax)V1 14
195Problem 4 (N) (Rockfax)V3 5
196Problem 3 (F-Steps N)
-
V1 2
197Problem 3 (N) (Rockfax)V0- 6
198Drop Off / Problem 6 (N) (Rockfax)
-
f6C+ 4
199Problem 7 (N) (Rockfax)
-
V4 *19
200Swept Away
-
f7C *5
201Parky 93f7A 20
202The Aretef7A ***63
203The Arete (ss)
-
f7B ***11
204Dropping Anchorf7B *1
205Swinger / Problem 10 (N) (Rockfax)f7A **15
206Swinger (ss) / Problem 10a (N) (Rockfax)
-
f7B **6
207Problem 12 (N) (Rockfax)V0- 15
208Problem 15 (N) (Rockfax)f6A 37
209Problem 16 (N) (Rockfax)V3 *15
210Problem 1 (S) (Rockfax)V1 *17
211Fruits de Mer
-
f7A+ *30
212Ponyof7C *1
213Alien Flake / Problem 2 (S) (Rockfax)f4 5a **29
214Problem 3 (S) (Rockfax)
-
V0 10
215G Bradyf6A 17
216Problem 15 (S) (Rockfax)f5+ 6a 11
217Pockets Traversef3+ 4c 31
218T-Bone Crackf6A 3
219Stack and Slapf6C+ **6
220Tender Hooksf7B+ 9 *14
221Tender Bassf8A * 
222Lateral Mindsetf7B+ 9 ***8
223Fisherman's Dynof5+ 6a ***176
224Fisherman's Bassf7C+ *** 
225Wobble Bassf8A ** 
226Hueco Crack (ss)
-
f7A ***70
227Hueco Crack (stand up)
-
f6C 16
228Primate Principals
-
f7A+ *4
229Cave Route X
-
f7B 3
230Tim's Crackf7C+ **7
231Straight Outta Rowrahf7C+ ** 
232Hueco Crackf7A+ ***51
233Left Crackf7A **23
234Cave Boulder 2, Problem 2
-
f5 3
 Far South (Bouldering) 
236Operation Winkle
-
f7B *1
237Water Worldf7B ***5
238Face Warp
-
f6C+ *9
239Far Side / Problem 6 (Rockfax)
-
f5+ *4
240The Cornerf5 5c *12
241The Tramlinesf4+ 5b **18
242Slantyf6A **7
243Whiteface Leftf6A *11
244Whiteface Centref4 5a *10
245Whiteface Rightf5 5c *8
246Fire Island
-
f7B+ *6
247Gravity Wave
-
f7A+ *6
248New Wave
-
f7C **2
249The Legend of Old Gregg
-
f7A+ *5
250Cage Fighter
-
f8A * 
251Cage Fighter (with block)
-
f7B **2
252The Knees Bees
-
f7B **2
253Higher Learning
-
f7C ***2
254Sol
-
f7C+ ***1
255Pure Shores8a ***1
 Fleswick Buttress (Routes) 
257Sink the Bismark
-
7b ***1
258Sea of Sands
-
7c **1
259Z Climb
-
7a+ **2
260The Sea Shall Not Have Them
-
6c+ **1
 *** South Head *** 
262Master at Arms
-
f7B+ *2
263Drunken Sailor
-
f7A+ 2
264Death Drives a Taxi
-
f7A+ *2
265Monkey's Fist
-
f6C *1
266The Cove, Problem 5V0 1
267The Cove, Problem 7V1 1
268Sword of Omens
-
f7A+ *2
269Sight Beyond Sight
-
f7A+ 2
270Shark Attack
-
f7B **2
271Cave Boulder 1, Problem 2f6B+ *1
272Cave Boulder 1, Problem 3V1 1
273Cave Boulder 2, Problem 1V0 1
274Red Whalef6A+ **7
275Orcaf7A+ *6
276Orca RHf6C+ 2
277Cave Boulder 2, Problem 2
-
f5 2
278Problem 3 - Missing Corner Blockf6A+ 3
279The Krakenf7A+ ***20
280The Kraken LHf7A+ **15
281Problem 4, Kraken Boulderf4 4
282Monster Slapf5 4
283The Scoopf5+ 11
284Hueco Curvef6C+ *20
285Kill Switchf7A+ *20
286Bottomless Aretef6B+ *14
287Killer Beef7B+ ***11
288Dead Calmf7B **18
289Jolly Rogered Rancherf5 *3
290Toxic Crusader
-
f7A+ *5
291Supposition Testf7B **7
292Calico Jackf6A ***8
293Kamikaze Caterpillarf6B 1
294Honeycomb
-
f7B 12
295Tale of the Talbot's
-
f7B+ **2
296Tale of the Talbot's (SS)
-
f7C ***3
297Shot Hole WallV0 1
298The Ranger
-
f6C+ *1
299Weather Eye Arete
-
f7A+ 1
300Vanishing Angle
-
f6A+ ***11
301Red Whale (Extension)f6B+ 4
302Problem 1, Platform Blockf5 5
303Seaward Slopes
-
f6B 11
304Problem 4, Platform Block
-
f6A+ 6
305Black Holef6C 7
306Punching Judy
-
f7B+ 3
307Black Hole SS
-
f7A+ 8
308Black Dynamitef7B *2
309Snowproof
-
f7A+ *2
310Freebooterf7A *2
311Blow Hole (15 Rockfax)f6C+ 3
312The Scoop (Cryptozoo)f6C+ *6
313Problem 14 (S) (Rockfax)V1 *1
314Godzillaf6C 11
315Davy Jones' Locker
-
f7B+ **5
316Moby Dick
-
f7C **1
317Yellowcake
-
f7C ***5
318Californium
-
f7B *2
319Liberty's End
-
f7A 4
320Iron Hide (stand)f7A **6
321Iron Hide SDS
-
f8A ***2
322Triassic Park
-
f7B **2
323Crow's Nest Slab *V0 1
324Problem 3, Kraken Boulder *V3 1
325Cannon Area Problem 2 *V2 1
326Flotsam *V3 1
327Problem 6, Boulder 2 *
-
V0+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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