Pass of Ballater

Climbs 111 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The quick-drying Craig an t'Seabhaig at the Pass of Ballater provides some brilliant, steep climbs on generally excellent Cairngorm Granite.

Popular with Aberdonians - excellent wet weather alternative if Creag an Dubh Loch and Lochnagar are shrouded in cloud.

Surrounding woodland provides interesting flora and fauna - esp. ants.

Climbing possible Mar-Dec.

Must-dos: Peels Wall (E4 6a), Rattlesnake (E3 6a), Anger and Lust (E2 5c), Smith's Arete (E5 6a), Lucky Strike (VS 4c), Little Cenotaph (HVS 5b)

Access notes
Erosion is a problem - please keep to obvious paths.

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), North East Outcrops (2003), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: North East Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 WESTERN SECTION UPPER TIER  
2The JokeE3 6b  
3JanusE4 6b **13
4Cheap TrickE4 6b *1
5Left Hand CrackVS 4c 125
6Right Hand CrackHVS 5a 97
7Right Hand Crack Variation FinishE2 5b 23
8Original RouteVS 5a **296
9FingerwreckerHVS 5c *38
10Wrecker's TraverseE3 5c **12
11Peel's WallE4 6a ***73
12Peel's Wall - Right Hand FinishE4 6a **3
13Smith's AreteE5 6a ***21
14Idiot NationE5 6b  
15Dod's Dead CatE2 5c *75
16Little CenotaphHVS 5b **337
17Pink WallHVS 5a **180
18Green LaughterHVS 5b 44
19FlibbertigibbetVS 4c 54
20Green WallHVS 5a 8
21Swine Before PearlsVS 4c 17
22Jackdaw GrooveHVS 4c 24
23Jackdaw's EdgeE3 5c 4
24Crumbling DiceE2 5c 31
25Black Custard - left hand startE3 5c 2
26Black CustardE1 5b ***269
27High SteppaE2 6a **62
28First SlipHVS 5a 37
29Jam CrackS *88
 WESTERN SECTION MIDDLE TIER  
31BOVD 48
32Swivel HeadD 97
33RightguardD 87
34AftershaveS 128
35Aftershave Direct FinishHS 4b *15
36SkidmarksHVS 5b 8
37Razor's CrackVS 4c *294
38Razor BackE2 5c 3
39Jumbled Blocks CrackVD 367
40Ping PongS 402
41Close ShaveHVS 5a 65
42BrutVS 5a 242
43BrutalE1 5c 3
44StinkerE1 5b **221
45Fungus FaceE1 5b 92
46Cowardie-CustardHVS 5a 73
47Lime ChimneyVD 265
48Ton Ton MacouteE5 6b 12
49Juniper CrushE5 6a 3
50Cavemen Go ClubbingE4 5c 1
51Lucky StrikeVS 4c ***384
52She's Not So SpecialE1 5b 1
53Pretzel LogicE3 5c **58
54Dubh ClaisE4 6a  
55RattlesnakeE3 6b ***29
56SupercreepsE1 5b *34
57Scary MonstersVS 4c *15
58Silent SpringE1 5a **98
59Medium CoolVS 4c **178
 WESTERN SECTION LOWER TIER  
61Wiry MastersHVS 4c 3
62Tough's BrushE2 5a 2
63The Dance of the Wu-Li MastersE1 5b 3
64The Dance of the Wu-Li Masters Direct FinishE2 6a *3
65The Dance of the Wu-Li Masters Right-Hand FinishHVS 5b  
 CENTRAL SECTION  
67Private PartsE6 6b **3
68Captain CopoutE4 6a **8
69IsolationVS 5a 10
70The TerroristHVS 5a 4
71DistemperE5 6b **4
72Cold RageE4 6a **33
73Hot TemperE5 6b ***6
74Anger and LustE2 5c ***128
75Anger and Lust Right-Hand FinishE4 6b ***14
76Lech GatesE4 5c **36
77OrageE3 6b 1
78Bottle of SmokeE4 6a *3
79Creak and SqueakHVS 5a 16
80MandraxVS 4c 15
81The SplitsHVS 5b 51
82Giant Flake RouteVS 4b *189
83ConvoyVS 4c **107
84Stoned ImmaculateE5 6a *18
85DramboE6 6a *6
86Drambo DirectE6 6a ***2
87Bluter CrackE4 6c  
88Bluter GrooveE3 6b ***17
89BluteredE1 5a ***155
90Demon DrinkE5 6b **23
91Doctor DipsoE4 6a *35
92Hangover WallE2 5c 34
93Larup HeadE3 5c **48
94Alcoholics AnonymousE2 5b *44
95Bad Back BluesS 1
96Back SliderE2 5b 10
97Strawberry RippleVS 5a *163
98Plane SliderE3 5b 6
 EASTERN SECTION  
100Chopped P.O.R.G.VS 5a 4
101ShiversHVS 5a 6
102Rock 'n' RollHVS 5a 10
103The Glaswegian ProblemE1 5c 3
104Press UpE1 5c 2
105Wild ThingHVS 5c *4
106Corvid's ChimneyVD 18
107JingsHVS 5b **10
108Help m'BobE5 6c 1
109Hairy BaboonE2 6a **2
110Fat DorisE5 6b * 
111Slender LorisE1 5c 6
112CrivvensHVS 5a 3
113EekS 16
114SootyS 4
115Aid My RobertVD 3
116General Anaesthetic *E5 6c **3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Nesting birds with chicks at the top out of Giant Flake Route at present.
Lamb - 20/May/14
who keeps stealing the screwgate from the ab tat around the tree above blutered/giant flake route etc? please stop it. its petty and cheap.
mulletcocktail2000 - 16/Jun/09