Pembroke Magic. © AJCW
A brilliant crag with some great routes at all grades. Diedre Sud (HS) is rightly a classic, as is Heart Of Darkness (HVS 4c) - an overhung sea traverse through a dark half-cave. There's Chimes Of Freedom (E2 5b), Ships That Crash In The Night (E3 5b), Slip Of The Wrist (E5 6a). And a convenient east face for some morning sun with the classics of Logos (E1), The Good Soldier (E2) and Crack Division (E4) - If you never have, go climb there.
Tidal on the belays of the first pitches of routes (only if the sea is big). Park at Stackpole Quay car park. Walk S along the coastal path. Abseil in - stakes at top.
This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, all the seasonal restrictions were removed. However, as of June 2016 climbers should be aware that there appears to be a number of auks nesting on the crag in the 'Right Wall' area.
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