Pembroke Magic. © AJCW
A brilliant crag with some great routes at all grades. Diedre Sud (HS) is rightly a classic, as is Heart Of Darkness (HVS 4c) - an overhung sea traverse through a dark half-cave. There's Chimes Of Freedom (E2 5b), Ships That Crash In The Night (E3 5b), Slip Of The Wrist (E5 6a). And a convenient east face for some morning sun with the classics of Logos (E1), The Good Soldier (E2) and Crack Division (E4) - If you never have, go climb there.
Tidal on the belays of the first pitches of routes (only if the sea is big). Park at Stackpole Quay car park. Walk S along the coastal path. Abseil in - stakes at top.
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