St. Govan's East

Climbs 104 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 11m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features

Tucked away at the end of the most popular crag in Pembroke is a great crag with routes which see a fraction of the traffic. This is another one of those typical Pembroke crags that has a classic route - First Blood (E2) - which attracts people for their first visit but which tends to get forgotten a bit after that. Unlike some of the one-hit-wonder crags, St Govan's East actually has a lot more to offer. Routes like Calisto (E1), Hidden Secrets (E2), Round the Horn (E2), Forbidden Fruits (E3), Howling Gale (E3) and the magnificent Brave New World (E4) make a return visit well worth thinking about, especially if you are exasperated by crowds elsewhere.

Approach notes

Tidal at the ends, but non-tidal in between.

Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2HappyVS 4b  
3HammerheadHVS 4c  
4WellyHVS 5b  
5Sheep's CrackE2 6a  
6Single SpeedVS 4c  
7Size ZeroHVS 5b  
8ScintillateHVS 5a  
9Coming HomeVS 4c  
12Ozzies Can't Run6a+  
13RazorbackE1 5b  
14Tidal RaceE2 5b  
15Bilge PumpE3 5c  
16Kiwis Can't FlyVS 4c  
17Kiwi's Top3  
18Kiwi's Bulge6a  
19Boob TubeVS 4c  
20The Olympic Blubber MachineE5 6a  
21Yellow Trouser FactorE2 5c  
22The Yellow Sea6b  
23Crab CatcherVS 5a  
24Crab Traverse6a+  
25Seal OutingE2 5c  
26Heave Ho and Up She RisesE1 5c  
27GrowlerE4 6a  
28CommitE5 6b  
29Split the DifferenceE3 5c  
30SamphireE3 5c  
31Ban the WhaleE1 5a  
32Save the SealHVS 5a  
33What a ComedownHVS 4c  
34El MatadorE4 6a **1
35La Flancal!6b  
36Ravages of TimeE3 6a  
37Modern LifeE2 5c  
38A Little Bit on the SideS  
40Sad Old EyesHS 4b  
41SideshowVS 4c *12
42SinewousE1 5c  
43Blood and FleshE2 5c *8
44Flesh and BloodE2 5c *20
45Hidden SecretsE2 5c **33
46Dead LineE5 6b  
47Brave New WorldE4 6a ***60
48Out ThereE6 6b * 
49Ghostly GalleonE4 6a **10
50Sea FeverE5 6a ** 
51The SavageE4 6b * 
52Round the HornE2 5c **11
53White RhinoE5 6a *1
54HotspurE5 6a * 
55ImaginationE4 6a **7
56Vision OnE5 6b * 
57Just an IllusionE3 5c *2
58In Your DreamsE3 6a 1
59Psyche and GurnE6 6b  
61Black RamboE5 6a * 
62Body LanguageE4 6a **34
63First BloodE2 5c ***318
64Dreams of SeasE5 6a **1
65CalistoE1 5b **228
66Mother IndiaE4 6b *7
67GangesE4 6a *1
68GanymedeHS 4b *197
69MetisE1 5b  
70The Vicar's GoatE2 5b 22
71Dead Man's GripE4 6a  
72Silent RunningE4 6b 1
73Quiet PleaseE5 6b *3
74Mud Pie in Your EyeHVS 4c 13
75Adam's RibE4 5c *10
76Bells of St. ClementsE3 6a *3
77Forbidden FruitsE3 5c **119
78Juicy LucyE4 5c *3
79Serpent's TailE4 5c *5
80RoxanaE5 6a **1
81Roman CandleHVS 5a 13
82Comfortably NumbHVS 5a 19
83EuropaHVS 5a *73
84Lotus EuropaE2 5c *38
85The Lotus EatersE1 5a 4
86Rear WindHVS 5a *220
87Whispering WindE1 5a *137
88The Go-BetweenE2 5c *25
89Howling GaleE3 6a **85
90IoVS 4b 51
91DynamoHVS 5a 14
92Paddy PowerE2 5c  
93Lunch BreakHS 4b 10
94Power NapE2 5b  
95Waiting gameVS 4c 8
96Neighbourhood BullyE3 5c  
97Little TreasureE2 5b  
99This Sticky Toffee's CrackedHVS 5a  
100Dirty WeekendHVS 5a 8
101Fast TrackE1 5b *3
102The SybariteE1 5b *1
103Stench TrenchE1 5a  
104FishwifeE2 5c  
105A Latticework of ClinkersE1 5a  
106Fly B' NightE3 6a  
107CornucopiaE2 5b  
108Here TodayHVS 5a  
109Gone TomorrowVS 4c  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Note: If you are going to do the Savage or Round the Horn in the near future, there is a very dodgy area of unstable rock at about 3/4 height. Take care and make sure your belayer has a helmet or is a fast runner!
Steve Quinton - 15/Jul/04