St. Govan's East

Climbs 68 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 11m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
Tucked away at the end of the most popular crag in Pembroke is a great crag with routes which see a fraction of the traffic. This is another one of those typical Pembroke crags that has a classic route - First Blood (E2) - which attracts people for their first visit but which tends to get forgotten a bit after that. Unlike some of the one-hit-wonder crags, St Govan's East actually has a lot more to offer. Routes like Calisto (E1), Hidden Secrets (E2), Round the Horn (E2), Forbidden Fruits (E3), Howling Gale (E3) and the magnificent Brave New World (E4) make a return visit well worth thinking about, especially if you are exasperated by crowds elsewhere.

Access notes
Tidal at the ends, but non-tidal in between.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Sad Old EyesHS 4b
2SideshowVS 4b
3SinewousE1 5c
4Blood and FleshE2 6a *
5Flesh and BloodE2 5c *
6Hidden SecretsE2 5c **
7Dead LineE5 6b
8Brave New WorldE4 6a ***
9Out ThereE6 6b *
10Ghostly GalleonE4 6a **
11Sea FeverE5 6a **
12The SavageE4 6b *
13Round the HornE2 5c *
14White RhinoE5 6a *
15HotspurE5 6a *
16ImaginationE4 6a **
17Vision OnE5 6b **
18Just an IllusionE3 5c *
19In Your DreamsE3 6a
20Psyche and GurnE6 6b
21Black RamboE5 6a *
22Body LanguageE4 6a ***
23First BloodE2 5c ***
24Dreams of SeasE5 6a **
25CalistoE1 5b *
26Mother IndiaE4 6b *
27GangesE4 6a *
28GanymedeHS 4b ***
29MetisE1 5b
30The Vicar's GoatE2 5b *
31Dead Man's GripE4 6a
32Silent RunningE4 6b
33Quiet PleaseE5 6b **
34Mud Pie in Your EyeHVS 4c
35Adam's RibE4 5c *
36Bells of St. ClementsE3 6a *
37Forbidden FruitsE3 5c **
38Juicy LucyE4 5c *
39Serpent's TailE4 5c *
40RoxanaE5 6a **
41Roman CandleHVS 5a
42Comfortably NumbHVS 5a
43EuropaHVS 5a *
44Lotus EuropaE2 5c *
45The Lotus EatersE1 5a
46Rear WindHVS 5a *
47Whispering WindE1 5b *
48The Go-BetweenE2 5c *
49Howling GaleE3 6a *
50IoVS 4b
51DynamoHVS 5a
52Paddy PowerE2 5c
53Lunch BreakHS 4b
54Power NapE2 5b
55Waiting gameVS 4c
56Neighbourhood BullyE3 5c
57Little TreasureE2 5b
58This Sticky Toffee's CrackedHVS 5a
59Dirty WeekendHVS 5a
60Fast TrackE1 5b *
61The SybariteE1 5b *
62Stench TrenchE1 5a
63FishwifeE2 5c
64A Latticework of ClinkersE1 5a
65Fly B' NightE3 6a
66CornucopiaE2 5b
67Here TodayHVS 5a
68Gone TomorrowVS 4c
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Note: If you are going to do the Savage or Round the Horn in the near future, there is a very dodgy area of unstable rock at about 3/4 height. Take care and make sure your belayer has a helmet or is a fast runner!
Steve Quinton - 15/Jul/04