Climbs 107
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 11m a.s.l
Faces SE

Will Frost on Whispering Wind at St. Govan's East © Alexander Thorp

Crag features

Tucked away at the end of the most popular crag in Pembroke is a great crag with routes which see a fraction of the traffic. This is another one of those typical Pembroke crags that has a classic route - First Blood (E2) - which attracts people for their first visit but which tends to get forgotten a bit after that. Unlike some of the one-hit-wonder crags, St Govan's East actually has a lot more to offer. Routes like Calisto (E1), Hidden Secrets (E2), Round the Horn (E2), Forbidden Fruits (E3), Howling Gale (E3) and the magnificent Brave New World (E4) make a return visit well worth thinking about, especially if you are exasperated by crowds elsewhere.

Approach notes

Tidal at the ends, but non-tidal in between.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
Note: If you are going to do the Savage or Round the Horn in the near future, there is a very dodgy area of unstable rock at about 3/4 height. Take care and make sure your belayer has a helmet or is a fast runner!
Steve Quinton - 15/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 South East Face 
2Happy
-
VS 4b  
3Hammerhead
-
HVS 4c 2
4Welly
-
HVS 5b  
5Sheep's Crack
-
E2 6a  
6Single Speed
-
VS 4c  
7Size Zero
-
HVS 5b  
8Scintillate
-
HVS 5a  
9Coming Home
-
VS 4c  
 The 50-Foot Wall 
11Toast6b  
12Ozzies Can't Run6a+  
13Razorback
-
E1 5b  
14Tidal Race
-
E2 5b  
15Bilge Pump
-
E3 5c  
16Kiwis Can't Fly
-
VS 4c  
17Kiwi's Top3  
18Kiwi's Bulge6a  
19Boob Tube
-
VS 4c  
20The Olympic Blubber MachineE5 6a  
21Yellow Trouser FactorE2 5c  
22The Yellow Sea6b  
23Crab Catcher
-
VS 5a 5
24Crab Traverse6a+  
25Seal Outing
-
E2 5c  
26Heave Ho and Up She RisesE1 5c  
27Growler
-
E4 6a  
28Commit
-
E5 6b  
29Split the Difference
-
E3 5c  
30Samphire
-
E3 5c  
31Ban the Whale
-
E1 5a  
32Save the Seal
-
HVS 5a  
33What a Comedown
-
HVS 4c 2
34El Matador
-
E4 6a **1
35La Flancal!6b  
36Ravages of TimeE3 6a  
37Modern LifeE2 5c  
38A Little Bit on the Side
-
S  
 Brave New World 
40Sad Old Eyes
-
HS 4b  
41SideshowVS 4c *12
42Sinewous
-
E1 5c  
43Blood and FleshE2 5c *8
44Flesh and BloodE2 5c *20
45Hidden SecretsE2 5c **34
46Dead Line
-
E5 6b  
47Brave New WorldE4 6a ***61
48Out ThereE6 6b * 
49Ghostly GalleonE4 6a **10
50Sea FeverE5 6a ** 
51The SavageE4 6b * 
52Round the HornE2 5c **11
53White RhinoE5 6a *1
54HotspurE5 6a * 
55ImaginationE4 6a **7
56Vision OnE5 6b * 
57Just an IllusionE3 5c *2
58In Your DreamsE3 6a 1
59Psyche and Gurn
-
E6 6b  
 First Blood 
61Black RamboE5 6a * 
62Body LanguageE4 6a **36
63First BloodE2 5c ***328
64Dreams of SeasE5 6a **1
65CalistoE1 5b **243
66Mother IndiaE4 6b *7
67GangesE4 6a *1
68GanymedeHS 4b *202
69Metis
-
E1 5b 1
70The Vicar's GoatE2 5b 24
71Dead Man's Grip
-
E4 6a  
72Silent RunningE4 6b 1
73Quiet PleaseE5 6b *3
74Mud Pie in Your EyeHVS 4c 13
75Adam's RibE4 5c *10
76Bells of St. ClementsE3 6a *3
77Forbidden FruitsE3 5c **131
78Juicy LucyE4 5c *3
79Serpent's Tail
-
E4 5c *6
80Roxana
-
E5 6a **1
81Roman CandleHVS 5a 14
82Comfortably NumbHVS 5a 19
83Europa
-
HVS 5a *79
84Lotus Europa
-
E2 5c *42
85The Lotus EatersE1 5a 4
86Rear WindHVS 5a *232
87Whispering WindE1 5a *139
88The Go-Between
-
E2 5c *25
89Howling GaleE3 6a **86
90IoVS 4b 55
91Dynamo
-
HVS 5a 14
92Paddy Power
-
E2 5c  
93Lunch Break
-
HS 4b 11
94Power Nap
-
E2 5b  
95Waiting game
-
VS 4c 9
96Neighbourhood Bully
-
E3 5c  
97Little Treasure
-
E2 5b  
 St. Govan's Far East 
99This Sticky Toffee's Cracked
-
HVS 5a  
100Dirty Weekend
-
HVS 5a 8
101Fast Track
-
E1 5b *3
102The Sybarite
-
E1 5b *1
103Stench Trench
-
E1 5a 1
104Fishwife
-
E2 5c  
105A Latticework of Clinkers
-
E1 5a  
106Fly B' Night
-
E3 6a  
107Cornucopia
-
E2 5b  
108Here Today
-
HVS 5a  
109Gone Tomorrow
-
VS 4c  

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