St. Govan's East

Climbs 69 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 11m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
Tucked away at the end of the most popular crag in Pembroke is a great crag with routes which see a fraction of the traffic. This is another one of those typical Pembroke crags that has a classic route - First Blood (E2) - which attracts people for their first visit but which tends to get forgotten a bit after that. Unlike some of the one-hit-wonder crags, St Govan's East actually has a lot more to offer. Routes like Calisto (E1), Hidden Secrets (E2), Round the Horn (E2), Forbidden Fruits (E3), Howling Gale (E3) and the magnificent Brave New World (E4) make a return visit well worth thinking about, especially if you are exasperated by crowds elsewhere.

Access notes
Tidal at the ends, but non-tidal in between.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Sad Old EyesHS 4b  
2SideshowVS 4c *9
3SinewousE1 5c  
4Blood and FleshE2 5c *7
5Flesh and BloodE2 5c *19
6Hidden SecretsE2 5c **30
7Dead LineE5 6b  
8Brave New WorldE4 6a ***57
9Out ThereE6 6b * 
10Ghostly GalleonE4 6a **10
11Sea FeverE5 6a ** 
12The SavageE4 6b * 
13Round the HornE2 5c **11
14White RhinoE5 6a *1
15HotspurE5 6a * 
16ImaginationE4 6a **7
17Vision OnE5 6b * 
18Just an IllusionE3 5c *1
19In Your DreamsE3 6a 1
20Psyche and GurnE6 6b  
21Black RamboE5 6a * 
22Body LanguageE4 6a **31
23First BloodE2 5c ***298
24Dreams of SeasE5 6a **1
25CalistoE1 5b **207
26Mother IndiaE4 6b *7
27GangesE4 6a *1
28GanymedeHS 4b *177
29MetisE1 5b  
30The Vicar's GoatE2 5b 21
31Dead Man's GripE4 6a  
32Silent RunningE4 6b 1
33Quiet PleaseE5 6b *3
34Mud Pie in Your EyeHVS 4c 13
35Adam's RibE4 5c *10
36Bells of St. ClementsE3 6a *3
37Forbidden FruitsE3 5c **110
38Juicy LucyE4 5c *3
39Serpent's TailE4 5c *3
40RoxanaE5 6a **1
41Roman CandleHVS 5a 11
42Comfortably NumbHVS 5a 18
43EuropaHVS 5a *69
44Lotus EuropaE2 5c *31
45The Lotus EatersE1 5a 4
46Rear WindHVS 5a *197
47Whispering WindE1 5a *125
48The Go-BetweenE2 5c *24
49Howling GaleE3 6a **75
50IoVS 4b 47
51DynamoHVS 5a 14
52Paddy PowerE2 5c  
53Lunch BreakHS 4b 8
54Power NapE2 5b  
55Waiting gameVS 4c 8
56Neighbourhood BullyE3 5c  
57Little TreasureE2 5b  
58This Sticky Toffee's CrackedHVS 5a  
59Dirty WeekendHVS 5a 6
60Fast TrackE1 5b * 
61The SybariteE1 5b *1
62Stench TrenchE1 5a  
63FishwifeE2 5c  
64A Latticework of ClinkersE1 5a  
65Fly B' NightE3 6a  
66CornucopiaE2 5b  
67Here TodayHVS 5a  
68Gone TomorrowVS 4c  
69El Matador *E4 6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Note: If you are going to do the Savage or Round the Horn in the near future, there is a very dodgy area of unstable rock at about 3/4 height. Take care and make sure your belayer has a helmet or is a fast runner!
Steve Quinton - 15/Jul/04