Roaches Upper Tier

Climbs 257 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 450m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Approach notes
Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LEFT HAND SECTION  
2RoosterVD *473
3Centre Slabf6C **16
4Chicken RunHVD *588
5Freak OutE1 5b 3
6Fern CrackS 4b **697
7HeartbleedHVS 5b 3
8Demon WallVS 5a *47
9Perverted StaircaseVS 5a 53
10Simpkin's OverhangE4 5b **7
11Inverted StaircaseD ***1357
12The Tower of Bizarre DelightsE3 5c *11
13The SublimeE2 5b *7
14PickpocketVS 4b 3
15CrenationE1 5a *18
16Heather Slab GrooveD 114
17Heather SlabS 3c *764
 WEST'S WALLABY AREA  
19Capitol ClimbHS 4a *206
20WombatE2 5b ***220
21Live BaitE4 5c *1
22West's WallabyVS 4c *190
23WallerooE2 5c **41
24Wallaby DirectHVS 5a *169
25Late Night FinalS 4a 35
 MAUD'S GARDEN AREA  
27The ValveE4 5c *11
28Beckermet SlabS 4b *334
29Maud's GardenHVD 3c ***1925
30LybstepVS 4b 20
31Contrary MaryVS 4b *150
32ColdfingerVS 4b 22
33Reset Portion of Galley 37S 4a 54
34Broken SlabS 4a 158
35Dawn PiperHVS 5b *17
36Runner RouteHS 4b *332
37GingE1 5c 10
38Damascus CrackHS 4b *1083
39Damascus Crack Left-Hand FinishVS 4b 323
40Third Degree BurnE2 5b 14
41LibraHVS 4c *207
 THE CENTRAL MASSIF  
43Joe PublicHS 4a 12
44Lone AscentVS 4c 21
45Little PerforationsE2 6a 3
46WipersVS 4b 11
47Central MassiveD *86
48AquaVS 4b 315
49Public Enemy Number OneHVS 5a 5
50Quick BrewE2 5c *10
51Tealeaf CrackS 4a *229
52CornflakeM 23
53A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain SurgeryS 4a 44
 BLACK AND TANS AREA  
55Rotunda ButtressVS 4c *375
56Rotunda GullyM 123
57Bachelor's ButtressHVS 4c **365
58GypfastE4 5c *17
59Something BiblicalE2 6a *1
60Saul's CrackHVS 5a ***820
61HumdingerE1 5b *109
62Jeffcoat's Chimney VariationsHS 4c *24
63Jeffcoat's ChimneyVD **601
64Jeffcoat's Buttress VariationHS 4b ***15
65Jeffcoat's ButtressHS 5a **679
66The slug Trailf7A **1
67Hanging AroundHVS 5b *23
68Ruby TuesdayE2 5b **67
69Black and TansS 4a ***1640
70Black and Tans VariationsHVS 5a *76
71Black VelvetHVD 4a ***857
72Diamond WednesdayHVS 5a *242
 THE GREAT SLAB  
74Hollybush CrackVS 4b **377
75Technical SlabHS 4a **1031
76The Neb FinishVS 4b **135
77GiltedE5 6a * 
78Painted RumourE6 6a ***9
79Pedestal Route VariationS 4a 71
80Pedestal RouteHVD 4a ***1332
81Loculus LieE5 6a **5
82The SlothHVS 5a ***1137
83New Fi'nialE6 6b **1
84One Giant Lip for MankindE6 6b **1
85Central RouteVS 4b **641
86The Spectatorship of the ProletariatE5 6b *2
87Right RouteVD ***1878
88Right Route RightHS 4b *154
89Kelly's DirectE1 5b **90
90Skin And WishbonesE8 7a *** 
91Kelly's ShelfS 4b *618
92Laughing all the way to the BlankE4 6a *3
93ParalogismE7 6c ***7
94AntithesisE5 6b ***3
95Bed of NailsE3 5b *4
 ROSCOE'S WALL AREA  
97Easy Gully WallS 4a 308
98Jelly RollVS 4b *285
99Magic ChildHVS 5a 10
100Ped X-ingE3 5c *5
101Roscoe's WallHVS 5b **40
102Roscoe's Wall/Round TableHVS 5b *207
103Crack and CornerS 4c ***722
104Round TableE1 5a **22
105Babbacombe LeeE1 5b *126
106Fly UnitedE1 5c ** 
107Hangman's CrackS 4a 134
 BLUSHING BUTTRESS  
109Scarlet WallS 4a 259
110War WoundE1 6a *63
111Left Hand RouteHS 4b **811
112Right Hand RouteHS 4c **835
113Gully WallVS 4b 137
114Grilled FingersHVS 4c 11
115The RibS 4a 216
116Rib WallVD 252
117Rib Wall Direct StartS 4c *23
118SparkleHS 4b 121
 CALCUTTA BUTTRESS  
120Sign of the TimesE1 5c 36
121Calcutta CrackHS 4b *211
122MistralE2 6a *12
123Calcutta ButtressVS 5a *66
124GenetixE3 6a *3
125Stop... Carry on!HVS 5a 11
126Calcutta Crab DanceHS 4c **5
 RIGHT HAND END  
128PepperVS 5a 9
129GarlicHVS 5a 6
130Ou est le Spit?E6 6b *4
131Seams Polishedf5+ 28
 UPPER TIER BOULDERS  
 THE RIPPLE BOULDER  
134Left ArÍtef4 186
135Grand Theftf7C *1
136The Ripplerf6A 187
137The Rippler Sit Startf7A 18
138The Bossf6C *56
139Ripple ArÍtef4 21
 LITTLE BOULDER  
141Nosyf3+ 55
142Uprightf3+ 49
 THE NOSE  
144Crimpy Wallf4 191
145Nose ArÍte Leftf4+ 170
146Nose ArÍte Rightf5 110
147Nose Scoopf6A 108
148Nose Mantelf3+ 81
 JOE'S BOULDER  
150Big 'Olesf4+ 395
151Joe's ArÍtef6A ***670
152Joe's RightV1 5b 14
153Pink Wallf5 101
154Pink Wall Eliminatef6C+ 46
155Joe's Portholesf3+ *390
156Joe's Portholes Sit Startf4+ 50
157Joe's Portholes Eliminatef5+ 62
158Mean Ol' Bastardf7B *21
159Apocalypse Nowf7A+ *22
 THE LONG BOULDER  
161Nadin's Traversef7A ***101
162Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Linkf7A+ **12
163Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Linkf7B *9
164Jug Upf5 151
165Glued Upf5+ *56
166Regf6C+ 28
167Pixief5 54
168Staircasef4+ *265
169Cooper's Traversef6B *138
170Mantelf5 24
171Long Boulder Mantelf6B+ *34
 DON'S BOULDER  
173Don's Crackf4+ *330
174Don's Crack Eliminatef6B 61
175Don's ArÍtef3+ *246
 THE WING  
177Wingerf5 70
178Wing Wongf5 141
179The Beakf6A+ 120
180Broken Wingf7A 74
 GREAT SLAB BOULDERING  
182Popperf3+ 34
183Slab Dancerf4 12
184Flap Dancerf7B 4
185The Lintelf5+ 35
186Cheesy Moonf4 20
187Long Traversef4+ 31
188Goat's Grufff4+ 29
189Goat's Eyef6A 38
190Goat's Eye - Sitting Startf6B+ 18
191The Monodoigtf7B+ 3
192Flake Museumf6A 6
193Scallopf4+ 12
 GROOVES BOULDER  
195Slippery Groovef5 69
196Arete on Leftf5 78
197Easy Groovef3+ 100
198Flakes and Chipsf4+ 331
199Flakes and Chips without the Chipsf6B 23
200Bancroft's 6bf7A+ 29
201Higginson's Armf7B+ **1
202Left Groovef6B **73
203Right Groovef6A *73
204Vague ArÍtef5 19
205The Nosef6B+ 50
206Juggy Groovef5 78
 CRACK AND CORNER AREA  
208Magic Crossingf5  
209Toucanf7A 8
210Lichenthropef7A+ **7
211Crack Indirectf5+ 3
212Crack Startf5 14
213Babbacombe Startf5 19
214Polishf7A+  
215Sheep Shitf7A+  
216Sheep Shit Crackf7A *13
217Oikf6A 11
 CALCUTTA BOULDERING  
219Bombay Overhangf5 *58
220Calcutta Crimpf6C *41
221Calcutta Meadowf7A **1
222Sleeping with the Flowersf6C+ *88
223Sign Startf5+ *15
224Dirtnapf7B *2
225Mistral Startf6B 68
226Limbless Limbo Dancerf7A *84
227Dish Grabf6B+ *43
228Calcutta Ribf5+ 40
229Calcutta Traversef6A+ *158
230The Black Hole Startf7A *27
231Delhi Bellyf7C ***1
232Gritstone Bouldering Pissupf6C **1
233Too Drunkf7A **61
234Drunk Enoughf6C+ *58
 CELLAR/ATTIC BOULDERS  
236Stretch Armstrongf6C+ **8
237Roof Problemf5+ 4
238The Squirmf4+ 9
239The Finger/Spike Leef5+ *2
240Handy Wallf4+ 9
241Mountyf4 15
242Barleyf5 *1
243Chasm ArÍtef6A *5
244Sexy Stevef6A+ *1
245Scrackf3+ **30
246Reachy Wallf6A 9
247Runnel Rouserf5 9
248Risky Runnelf5+ 2
249The Gatesf7A *1
250Crinkly Wallf6A 18
251Ride My Pimpf6B 2
252The Downpipef6C 7
253Pipe Entryf7A+ 4
254Night Riderf7B+ 1
255Left Slabf4 34
256Tiny Groovef3+ 51
257Right Slabf3 54
258Cellar Dwellaf7A+ * 
259Cellar Slab 1f4+ 38
260Cellar Slab 2f5 47
261Easy Groovef3 65
 WHERE ARE THESE??  
263Pac Manf5 *3
264Two Chipsf4+ *3
265Traversed to Scrackf5+ *1
266Upper Tier Ridge3 *2
267The Nose Traversef6B *1
268Technical Slab + The Neb Finish *HS 4a ***1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13
This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11
There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09
Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05
Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04