Climbs 257
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces SW

Neb Buttress in the evening light © Fidget

Crag features

Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Approach notes

Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13
This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11
There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09
Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05
Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left-Hand Section 
2RoosterVD *531
3Centre Slabf6C **23
4Chicken RunHVD *644
5Freak OutE1 5b 4
6Fern CrackS 4b **789
7HeartbleedHVS 5b 4
8Demon WallVS 5a *48
9Perverted StaircaseVS 5a 56
10Simpkin's OverhangE4 5b **7
11Inverted StaircaseD ***1558
12The Tower of Bizarre DelightsE3 5c *11
13The SublimeE2 5b *7
14PickpocketVS 4b 3
15CrenationE1 5a *20
16Heather Slab Groove
-
D 132
17Heather SlabS 3c *836
 West's Wallaby Area 
19Capitol ClimbHS 4a *235
20WombatE2 5b ***332
21Live BaitE4 5c *1
22West's WallabyVS 4c *213
23WallerooE2 5c **45
24Wallaby DirectHVS 5a *196
25Late Night FinalS 4a 35
 Maud's Garden Area 
27The ValveE4 5c *13
28Beckermet SlabS 4b *378
29Maud's GardenHVD 3c ***2190
30LybstepVS 4b 20
31Contrary MaryVS 4b *177
32ColdfingerVS 4b 22
33Reset Portion of Galley 37S 4a 65
34Broken SlabS 4a 178
35Dawn PiperHVS 5b *22
36Runner RouteHS 4b *365
37GingE1 5c 10
38Damascus CrackHS 4b *1221
39Damascus Crack Left-Hand Finish
-
VS 4b 365
40Third Degree BurnE2 5b 15
41LibraHVS 4c *219
 The Central Massif 
43Joe PublicHS 4a 12
44Lone Ascent
-
VS 4c 21
45Little PerforationsE2 6a 3
46WipersVS 4b 11
47Central MassiveD *101
48AquaVS 4b 360
49Public Enemy Number One
-
HVS 5a 5
50Quick BrewE2 5c *10
51Tealeaf CrackS 4a *256
52Cornflake
-
M 24
53A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain Surgery
-
S 4a 45
 Black and Tans Area 
55Rotunda ButtressVS 4c *433
56Rotunda GullyM 129
57Bachelor's ButtressHVS 4c **422
58GypfastE4 5c *19
59Something Biblical
-
E2 6a *1
60Saul's CrackHVS 5a ***1025
61HumdingerE1 5b *123
62Jeffcoat's Chimney VariationsHS 4c *29
63Jeffcoat's ChimneyVD **669
64Jeffcoat's Buttress VariationHS 4b ***42
65Jeffcoat's ButtressHS 5a **798
66The slug Trailf7A **1
67Hanging AroundHVS 5b *26
68Ruby TuesdayE2 5b **85
69Black and TansS 4a ***1914
70Black and Tans Variations
-
HVS 5a *84
71Black VelvetHVD 4a ***1026
72Diamond WednesdayHVS 5a *290
 The Great Slab 
74Hollybush CrackVS 4b **438
75Technical SlabHS 4a **1223
76The Neb Finish
-
VS 4b **171
77GiltedE5 6a * 
78Painted RumourE6 6a ***9
79Pedestal Route VariationS 4a 99
80Pedestal RouteHVD 4a ***1518
81Loculus LieE5 6a **5
82The SlothHVS 5a ***1869
83New Fi'nialE6 6b **1
84One Giant Lip for MankindE6 6b **1
85Central RouteVS 4b **734
86The Spectatorship of the ProletariatE5 6b *2
87Right RouteVD ***2116
88Right Route RightHS 4b *168
89Kelly's DirectE1 5b **113
90Skin And WishbonesE8 7a *** 
91Kelly's ShelfS 4b *708
92Laughing all the way to the BlankE4 6a *3
93ParalogismE7 6c ***9
94AntithesisE5 6b ***3
95Bed of NailsE3 5b *6
 Roscoe's Wall Area 
97Easy Gully WallS 4a 337
98Jelly RollVS 4b *324
99Magic ChildHVS 5a 11
100Ped X-ingE3 5c *5
101Roscoe's Wall
-
HVS 5b **82
102Roscoe's Wall/Round TableHVS 5b *214
103Crack and CornerS 4c ***860
104Round TableE1 5a **24
105Babbacombe LeeE1 5b *135
106Fly UnitedE1 5c ** 
107Hangman's CrackS 4a 144
 Blushing Buttress 
109Scarlet WallS 4a 294
110War WoundE1 6a *66
111Left Hand RouteHS 4b **915
112Right Hand RouteHS 4c **933
113Gully WallVS 4b 157
114Grilled FingersHVS 4c 13
115The RibS 4a 244
116Rib WallVD 284
117Rib Wall Direct StartS 4c *29
118SparkleHS 4b 130
 Calcutta Buttress 
120Sign of the TimesE1 5c 37
121Calcutta CrackHS 4b *240
122MistralE2 6a *14
123Calcutta ButtressVS 5a *71
124GenetixE3 6a *4
125Stop... Carry on!HVS 5a 11
126Calcutta Crab DanceHS 4c **6
 Right-Hand End 
128Pepper
-
VS 5a 10
129Garlic
-
HVS 5a 8
130Ou est le Spit?E6 6b *4
131Seams Polished
-
f5+ 28
 Upper Tier Boulders 
 The Ripple Boulder 
134Left ArÍte
-
f4 203
135Grand Theftf7C *1
136The Rippler
-
f6A 213
137The Rippler Sit Startf7A 22
138Lip-ServiceV7 1
139The Boss
-
f6C *59
140Ripple ArÍtef4 30
 Little Boulder 
142Nosyf3+ 64
143Uprightf3+ 56
 The Nose 
145The Nose Traversef6B *1
146Crimpy Wall
-
f4 214
147Nose ArÍte Left
-
f4+ 194
148Nose ArÍte Right
-
f5 127
149Nose Scoop
-
f6A 138
150Nose Mantel
-
f3+ 98
 Joe's Boulder 
152Big 'Oles
-
f4+ 450
153Joe's ArÍte
-
f6A ***799
154Joe's RightV1 24
155Pink Wallf5 120
156Pink Wall Eliminatef6C+ 56
157Joe's Portholes
-
f3+ *437
158Joe's Portholes Sit Start
-
f4+ 60
159Joe's Portholes Eliminatef5+ 69
160Mean Ol' Bastard
-
f7B *23
161Apocalypse Now
-
f7A+ *28
 The Long Boulder 
163Nadin's Traverse
-
f7A ***142
164Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Linkf7A+ **12
165Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Linkf7B *9
166Jug Up
-
f5 166
167Glued Up
-
f5+ *73
168Regf6C+ 43
169Pixie
-
f5 63
170Staircase
-
f4+ *285
171Cooper's Traverse ExtensionV5 2
172Cooper's Traversef6B *150
173Mantelf5 30
174Long Boulder Mantelf6B+ *36
 Don's Boulder 
176Don's Crack
-
f4+ *362
177Don's Crack Eliminatef6B 73
178Don's ArÍte
-
f3+ *269
 The Wing 
180Wingerf5 80
181Wing Wongf5 164
182The Beak
-
f6A+ 136
183Broken Wing
-
f7A 97
 Great Slab Bouldering 
185Popperf3+ 40
186Slab Dancerf4 17
187Flap Dancerf7B 5
188The Lintelf5+ 41
189Cheesy Moonf4 23
190Long Traversef4+ 46
191Goat's Grufff4+ 36
192Goat's Eyef6A 52
193Goat's Eye - Sitting Startf6B+ 24
194The Monodoigt
-
f7B+ 4
195Flake Museumf6A 9
196Scallopf4+ 14
 Grooves Boulder 
198Slippery Groove
-
f5 82
199ArÍte on Left
-
f5 88
200Easy Groove
-
f3+ 112
201Flakes and Chips
-
f4+ 365
202Flakes and Chips without the Chips
-
f6B 26
203Bancroft's 6bf7A+ 38
204Higginson's Arm
-
f7B+ **1
205Left Groove
-
f6B **87
206Right Groove
-
f6A *81
207Vague ArÍte
-
f5 20
208The Nose
-
f6B+ 53
209Juggy Groovef5 83
 Crack and Corner Area 
211Magic Crossing
-
f5 1
212Toucanf7A 8
213Lichenthropef7A+ **7
214Crack Indirect
-
f5+ 6
215Crack Startf5 20
216Babbacombe Startf5 25
217Polishf7A+ 1
218Sheep Shitf7A+ 1
219Sheep Shit Crackf7A *16
220Oikf6A 13
 Calcutta Bouldering 
222Bombay Overhang
-
f5 *63
223Calcutta Crimp
-
f6C *42
224Calcutta Meadowf7A **1
225Sleeping with the Flowers
-
f6C+ *92
226Sign Startf5+ *15
227Dirtnap
-
f7B *2
228Mistral Start
-
f6B 69
229Limbless Limbo Dancer
-
f7A *97
230Dish Grab
-
f6B+ *45
231Calcutta Rib
-
f5+ 39
232Calcutta Traversef6A+ *167
233The Black Hole Start
-
f7A *27
234Delhi Bellyf7C ***1
235Gritstone Bouldering Pissupf6C **1
236Too Drunk
-
f7A **87
237Drunk Enough
-
f6C+ *66
 Cellar/Attic Boulders 
239Stretch Armstrong
-
f6C+ **8
240Roof Problemf5+ 6
241The Squirm
-
f4+ 11
242The Finger/Spike Lee
-
f5+ *2
243Handy Wall
-
f4+ 10
244Mountyf4 18
245Barleyf5 *4
246Chasm ArÍte
-
f6A *5
247Sexy Steve
-
f6A+ *2
248Scrackf3+ **37
249Reachy Wallf6A 12
250Runnel Rouser
-
f5 12
251AreteV0- *2
252Risky Runnel
-
f5+ 6
253The Gates
-
f7A *1
254Crinkly Wall
-
f6A 22
255Ride My Pimp
-
f6B 2
256The Downpipe
-
f6C 8
257Pipe Entryf7A+ 4
258Night Riderf7B+ 1
259Left Slabf4 41
260Tiny Groove
-
f3+ 58
261Right Slab
-
f3 60
262Cellar Dwella
-
f7A+ * 
263Cellar Slab 1f4+ 49
264Cellar Slab 2f5 58
265Easy Groovef3 77
 Where are these?? 
267Pac Man
-
f5 *2
268Two Chips
-
f4+ *2
269Traversed to Scrackf5+ *1
270Upper Tier Ridge3 *3
271Technical Slab + The Neb Finish *
-
HS 4a ***8
272Destination Venus *HVS 5b 1
273A Day at the Seaside *VS 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Robin Nichols