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These details were last updated on 02/Oct/2010

Roaches Upper Tier

Staffordshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 244 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 450m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 LEFT HAND SECTION  
2RoosterVD *348
3Centre SlabV5 **1
4Chicken RunHVD *444
5Fern CrackS 4b **510
6HeartbleedHVS 5b 2
7Demon WallVS 5a *40
8Perverted StaircaseVS 5a 42
9Simpkin's OverhangE4 5b **5
10Inverted StaircaseD ***1003
11The Tower of Bizarre DelightsE3 5c *5
12The SublimeE2 5b *2
13PickpocketVS 4b 1
14CrenationE1 5a *8
15Heather Slab GrooveD 83
16Heather SlabS 3c *573
 WEST'S WALLABY AREA  
18Capitol ClimbHS 4a *160
19WombatE2 5b ***162
20Live BaitE4 5c * 
21West's WallabyVS 4c *143
22WallerooE2 5c **28
23Wallaby DirectHVS 5a *113
24Late Night FinalS 4a 26
 MAUD'S GARDEN AREA  
26The ValveE4 5c *7
27Beckermet SlabS 4b *257
28Maud's GardenS 4a ***1395
29LybstepVS 4b 12
30Contrary MaryVS 4b *103
31ColdfingerVS 4b 17
32Reset Portion of Galley 37S 4a 38
33Broken SlabS 4a 115
34Dawn PiperHVS 5b *8
35Runner RouteHS 4b *257
36GingE1 5c 4
37Damascus CrackHS 4b *826
38Damascus Crack Left-Hand FinishVS 4b 216
39Third Degree BurnE2 5b 7
40LibraHVS 4c *171
 THE CENTRAL MASSIF  
42Joe PublicHS 4a 10
43Lone AscentVS 4c 15
44Little PerforationsE2 6a 3
45WipersVS 4b 8
46Central MassiveD *69
47AquaVS 4b 225
48Public Enemy Number OneHVS 5a 4
49Quick BrewE2 5c *7
50Tealeaf CrackS 4a *166
51CornflakeM 15
52A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain SurgeryS 4a 40
 BLACK AND TANS AREA  
54Rotunda ButtressVS 4c *277
55Rotunda GullyM 100
56Bachelor's ButtressHVS 4c **264
57GypfastE4 5c *12
58Something BiblicalE2 6a *1
59Saul's CrackHVS 5a ***587
60HumdingerE1 5b *82
61Jeffcoat's Chimney VariationsHS 4c *11
62Jeffcoat's ChimneyVD **446
63Jeffcoat's ButtressHS 5a **486
64The slug Trailf7A **1
65Hanging AroundHVS 5b *19
66Ruby TuesdayE2 5b **54
67Black and TansS 4a ***1182
68Black and Tans VariationsHVS 5a *56
69Black VelvetHVD 4a ***595
70Diamond WednesdayHVS 5a *162
 THE GREAT SLAB  
72Hollybush CrackVS 4b **295
73Technical SlabHS 4a **741
74The Neb FinishVS 4b **89
75GiltedE5 6a * 
76Painted RumourE6 6a ***7
77Pedestal Route VariationS 4a 14
78Pedestal RouteHVD 4a ***1042
79Loculus LieE5 6a **3
80The SlothHVS 5a ***778
81Central RouteVS 4b **494
82Right RouteVD ***1404
83Right Route RightHS 4b *108
84Kelly's DirectE1 5b **68
85Skin And WishbonesE8 7a *** 
86Kelly's ShelfS 4b *461
87Laughing all the way to the blankE4 6a *1
88ParalogismE7 6c ***4
89AntithesisE5 6b ***2
90Bed of NailsE3 5b *3
 GREAT SLAB BOULDERING (I)  
92PopperV0- 4b 16
93The LintelV2 5c 17
94Goats GruffV0+ 5a 14
95The BreakV2 6a 18
96Goat's Eyef6B+ 5
97ScallopV0- 4b 3
98Big Traversefont 4+ 8
 ROSCOE'S WALL AREA  
100Easy Gully WallS 4a 223
101Jelly RollVS 4b *199
102Magic ChildHVS 5a 6
103Roscoe's Wall/Round TableHVS 5b *185
104Ped X-ingE3 5c *1
105Crack and CornerS 4c ***542
106Round TableE1 5a **8
107Babbacombe LeeE1 5b *108
108Fly UnitedE1 5c ** 
109Hangman's CrackS 4a 96
 ROSCOE'S WALL BOULDERING (J)  
111ToucanV6 6c 4
112Babbacombe StartV1 5b 8
113Babbacombe sit-start (Polish)V7 6c  
114Go Left (Sheep Shit?)V7 6c  
115Go Right (Sheep Shit Crack?)f7A *7
 BLUSHING BUTTRESS  
117Scarlet WallS 4a 184
118War WoundE1 6a *45
119Left Hand RouteHS 4b **567
120Right Hand RouteHS 4c **588
121Gully WallVS 4b 98
122Grilled FingersHVS 4c 6
123The RibHD 158
124Rib WallVD 180
125Rib Wall Direct StartS 4c *10
126SparkleHS 4b 101
 CALCUTTA BUTTRESS  
128Sign of the TimesE1 5c 23
129Calcutta CrackHS 4b *153
130MistralE2 6a *6
131Calcutta ButtressVS 5a *51
132GenetixE3 6a *2
133Stop... Carry on!HVS 5a 6
134Calcutta Crab DanceHS 4c **4
 Climb nameGradex
 CALCUTTA BOULDERING  
136Bombay Overhangfont 5 *39
137Calcutta Crimpf6B+ *27
138Sleeping with the Flowersf7A *60
139Sign startV2 *6
140Dirtnapf7B *1
141Mistral Startf6A 43
142Limbless Limbo Dancerf6C *40
143Dish Grabf6B+ *28
144Calcutta Ribfont 5+ 25
145Calcutta Traversef6A+ *113
146The Black Hole Startf7A *10
147Calcutta Traverse (The Black Hole Start)V7 6c *9
148Calcutta Meadowf7A **1
149Delhi Bellyf7C ***1
 RIGHT HAND END  
151PepperVS 5a 6
152GarlicHVS 5a 4
153Too Drunkf7A **37
154Drunk Enoughf6C+ *36
155Ou est le Spit?E6 6b *3
 UPPER TIER BOULDERS  
 GROOVES BOULDER (H IN NEW, WAS A))  
158Slippery GrooveV0 5b 47
159Seams PolishedV2 5b 23
160Arete on LeftV1 5b 48
161Easy GrooveV0- 4c 67
162Flakes and Chipsfont 4+ 213
163Flakes and Chips without the chipsV4 6b 12
164Bancroft's 6bV7 6b 14
165Higginson's Armf7B ** 
166Left Groovef6B **42
167Right Groovef6A *54
168Vague AreteV1 5c 16
169The Nosef6B+ 37
170Juggy GrooveV1 5b 49
 THE WING: BOULDER G (WAS B)  
172WingerV1 5c 35
173The Beakf6A+ 86
174Broken Wingf7A 51
175Wing WongV1 5c 78
 THE LONG BOULDER: BOULDER E (WAS C)  
177Jug UpV1 5b 93
178Glued Upfont 5+ *42
179RegV6 6c 14
180Upper Tier Boulders No 20V1 5c 27
181Nadin's Traversef7A ***75
182Staircasefont 4+ *180
183Cooper's Traversef6B *102
184Nadin's Traverse -- Staircase Linkf7A+ **9
185Nadin's Traverse -- Cooper's Traverse Linkf7B *7
186Long Boulder MantelV4 6b *20
 JOE'S BOULDER: BOULDER D  
188Pink WallV1 8
189Joe's Portholesfont 3+ *261
190Joe's Portholes sit startV1 5c 34
191Joe's Portholes EliminateV2 5c 40
192Mean Ol' Bastardf7B *9
193Apocalypse Nowf7A+ *17
194Upper Tier Boulders #27V2 5c 38
195Upper Tier Boulders No 28f7A 34
196Joe's Aretefont 5+ ***456
197The Bishop's Movefont 3+ *59
198Big 'OlesV0- 4c 207
 DON'S BOULDER: BOULDER F (WAS E)  
200Don's Crackfont 4+ *228
201Between Don's Crack and Aretef6B 40
202Don's Aretefont 3+ *173
203MantelV1 5c 8
 BOULDER C: THE NOSE (WAS BOULDER F)  
205Crimpy WallV0 5b 119
206Nose Arete Left (Arete On Left)V1 5b 112
207Nose Arete Right (Arete on Right)V2 5c 69
208Nose ScoopV2 5c 65
209Nose Mantel (Easy Mantel)V0- 4b 53
 LITTLE BOULDER: BOULDER B (WAS G)  
211Upper Tier Boulders No 38V0- 4c 28
212Upper Tier Boulders No 39V0- 4c 20
213NosyV0- 4c 9
 THE RIPPLE: BOULDER A (WAS H)  
215UprightV0- 4b 11
216Short AreteV2 5c 60
217The Bossf6C *20
218Rippler (Knees up)V3 5c 119
219Upper Tier Boulders No 43V4 6a 26
220Grand Theftf7C *1
221Left Arete (P45 Upper Tier Boulders)V0 5b 77
 CELLAR/ATTIC BOULDERS  
223Stretch Armstrongf6C+ **7
224Roof ProblemV1 5a 4
225The Squirmfont 4+ 5
226The Finger/Spike Leefont 5+ *2
227Little Wallfont 4 4
228Cellar No 7V0- 4b 2
229Cellar No 8V1 5b 7
230Cellar No 9V2 *2
231Sexy Stevef6A+ *1
232Scrackfont 3+ **17
233Reachy WallV2 6a 7
234AreteV0- 4b 5
235Risky Runnelfont 5+ 1
236Fingery Slab 1V1 5b 22
237Fingery Slab 2V1 5c 24
238Easy GrooveV0- 4a 41
239Cellar No 19V0- 4c 21
240Tiny Groovefont 3+ 36
241Right Slabfont 3 37
242Cellar Dwellaf7A+ * 
243The Gatesf6A+ *1
244Crinkly Wallf6A 12
245The Downpipef6C 4
246Pipe Entryf7A+ 3
247Night Riderf7B+ 1
248Pac Manfont 5 *3
249Two Chipsfont 4+ *3
 UNPLACED  
251Flap Dancerf7B 3
252Cheesy Moonfont 4 5
253The Rippler (Sit Start)f7A 5
254OikV3 6a 4
255Cellar Slab 1 †V1 5c 4
256Crack StartV2 5b 5
257Micro Diddy 'Ole aka The Monodoigtf7B+ 1
258Cellar Slab 2 †V1 4
259Pixie †V0+ 2
260MarleyV3 ** 
261Ripple areteV2 5c  
262Left arêteV0 5a  
263Mantel - problem 25, Long BoulderV1 5c 1
264New Fi'nialE6 6b **1
265Goat's Eye (standing start)f6A 1
266BarleyV1 5b *1
267One Giant Lip for MankindE6 6b **1
268Ride My Pimpf6B 2

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer FrankW ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith ? - 16/Apr/13

This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE ? - 20/Mar/11

There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy ? - 22/Mar/09

Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05

Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04