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These details were last updated on 05/Feb/2014

Roaches Upper Tier

Staffordshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 257 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 450m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.0mm rain
11 °C
19 kph

0.4mm rain
9 °C
26 kph

0.2mm rain
8 °C
17 kph

0.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
9 °C
12 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
11 °C
26 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2RoosterVD *399
3Centre Slabf6C **8
4Chicken RunHVD *501
5Fern CrackS 4b **585
6HeartbleedHVS 5b 2
7Demon WallVS 5a *45
8Perverted StaircaseVS 5a 45
9Simpkin's OverhangE4 5b **7
10Inverted StaircaseD ***1165
11The Tower of Bizarre DelightsE3 5c *9
12The SublimeE2 5b *4
13PickpocketVS 4b 1
14CrenationE1 5a *10
15Heather Slab GrooveD 90
16Heather SlabS 3c *654
18Capitol ClimbHS 4a *186
19WombatE2 5b ***184
20Live BaitE4 5c * 
21West's WallabyVS 4c *164
22WallerooE2 5c **33
23Wallaby DirectHVS 5a *133
24Late Night FinalS 4a 31
26The ValveE4 5c *9
27Beckermet SlabS 4b *288
28Maud's GardenS 4a ***1604
29LybstepVS 4b 15
30Contrary MaryVS 4b *124
31ColdfingerVS 4b 17
32Reset Portion of Galley 37S 4a 47
33Broken SlabS 4a 135
34Dawn PiperHVS 5b *10
35Runner RouteHS 4b *286
36GingE1 5c 5
37Damascus CrackHS 4b *916
38Damascus Crack Left-Hand FinishVS 4b 254
39Third Degree BurnE2 5b 7
40LibraHVS 4c *182
42Joe PublicHS 4a 10
43Lone AscentVS 4c 17
44Little PerforationsE2 6a 3
45WipersVS 4b 8
46Central MassiveD *81
47AquaVS 4b 261
48Public Enemy Number OneHVS 5a 4
49Quick BrewE2 5c *9
50Tealeaf CrackS 4a *193
51CornflakeM 17
52A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain SurgeryS 4a 40
54Rotunda ButtressVS 4c *308
55Rotunda GullyM 108
56Bachelor's ButtressHVS 4c **299
57GypfastE4 5c *15
58Something BiblicalE2 6a *1
59Saul's CrackHVS 5a ***668
60HumdingerE1 5b *92
61Jeffcoat's Chimney VariationsHS 4c *14
62Jeffcoat's ChimneyVD **509
63Jeffcoat's Buttress VariationHS 4b ***3
64Jeffcoat's ButtressHS 5a **560
65The slug Trailf7A **1
66Hanging AroundHVS 5b *19
67Ruby TuesdayE2 5b **58
68Black and TansS 4a ***1354
69Black and Tans VariationsHVS 5a *63
70Black VelvetHVD 4a ***694
71Diamond WednesdayHVS 5a *190
73Hollybush CrackVS 4b **325
74Technical SlabHS 4a **838
75The Neb FinishVS 4b **101
76GiltedE5 6a * 
77Painted RumourE6 6a ***10
78Pedestal Route VariationS 4a 38
79Pedestal RouteHVD 4a ***1154
80Loculus LieE5 6a **4
81The SlothHVS 5a ***913
82New Fi'nialE6 6b **1
83One Giant Lip for MankindE6 6b **1
84Central RouteVS 4b **551
85Right RouteVD ***1603
86Right Route RightHS 4b *123
87Kelly's DirectE1 5b **80
88Skin And WishbonesE8 7a *** 
89Kelly's ShelfS 4b *536
90Laughing all the way to the BlankE4 6a *2
91ParalogismE7 6c ***6
92AntithesisE5 6b ***2
93Bed of NailsE3 5b *4
95Easy Gully WallS 4a 247
96Jelly RollVS 4b *237
97Magic ChildHVS 5a 8
98Ped X-ingE3 5c *4
99Roscoe's WallHVS 5b **14
100Roscoe's Wall/Round TableHVS 5b *195
101Crack and CornerHS 4c ***623
102Round TableE1 5a **10
103Babbacombe LeeE1 5b *116
104Fly UnitedE1 5c ** 
105Hangman's CrackS 4a 104
107Scarlet WallS 4a 216
108War WoundE1 6a *52
109Left Hand RouteHS 4b **658
110Right Hand RouteHS 4c **685
111Gully WallVS 4b 114
112Grilled FingersHVS 4c 7
113The RibHD 176
114Rib WallVD 208
115Rib Wall Direct StartS 4c *12
116SparkleHS 4b 110
118Sign of the TimesE1 5c 27
119Calcutta CrackHS 4b *173
120MistralE2 6a *9
121Calcutta ButtressVS 5a *56
122GenetixE3 6a *2
123Stop... Carry on!HVS 5a 7
124Calcutta Crab DanceHS 4c **5
126PepperVS 5a 7
127GarlicHVS 5a 5
128Ou est le Spit?E6 6b *3
129Seams Polishedf5+ 27
 Climb nameGradex
132Left Arêtef4 154
133Grand Theftf7C *1
134The Ripplerf6A 150
135The Rippler Sit Startf7A 12
136The Bossf6C *53
137Ripple Arêtef4 2
139Nosyf3+ 41
140Uprightf3+ 36
142Crimpy Wallf4 138
143Nose Arête Leftf4+ 126
144Nose Arête Rightf5 81
145Nose Scoopf6A 81
146Nose Mantelf3+ 58
148Big 'Olesf4+ 311
149Joe's Arêtef6A ***537
150Pink Wallf5 61
151Pink Wall Eliminatef6C+ 38
152Joe's Portholesf3+ *299
153Joe's Portholes Sit Startf4+ 39
154Joe's Portholes Eliminatef5+ 46
155Mean Ol' Bastardf7B *15
156Apocalypse Nowf7A+ *19
158Nadin's Traversef7A ***85
159Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Linkf7A+ **10
160Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Linkf7B *7
161Jug Upf5 111
162Glued Upf5+ *45
163Regf6C+ 18
164Pixief5 37
165Staircasef4+ *202
166Cooper's Traversef6B *117
167Mantelf5 11
168Long Boulder Mantelf6B+ *26
170Don's Crackf4+ *263
171Don's Crack Eliminatef6B 43
172Don's Arêtef3+ *198
174Wingerf5 46
175Wing Wongf5 92
176The Beakf6A+ 93
177Broken Wingf7A 59
179Popperf3+ 21
180Slab Dancerf4 1
181Flap Dancerf7B 3
182The Lintelf5+ 24
183Cheesy Moonf4 8
184Long Traversef4+ 13
185Goat's Grufff4+ 18
186Goat's Eyef6A 27
187Goat's Eye - Sitting Startf6B+ 9
188The Monodoigtf7B+ 2
189Flake Museumf6A 2
190Scallopf4+ 6
192Slippery Groovef5 53
193Arete on Leftf5 58
194Easy Groovef3+ 81
195Flakes and Chipsf4+ 255
196Flakes and Chips without the Chipsf6B 15
197Bancroft's 6bf7A+ 22
198Higginson's Armf7B+ ** 
199Left Groovef6B **51
200Right Groovef6A *60
201Vague Arêtef5 18
202The Nosef6B+ 43
203Juggy Groovef5 59
205Magic Crossingf5  
206Toucanf7A 5
207Lichenthropef7A+ **2
208Crack Indirectf5+  
209Crack Startf5 6
210Babbacombe Startf5 13
211Polishf7A+ 1
212Sheep Shitf7A+  
213Sheep Shit Crackf7A *9
214Oikf6A 5
216Bombay Overhangf5 *47
217Calcutta Crimpf6C *36
218Calcutta Meadowf7A **1
219Sleeping with the Flowersf6C+ *80
220Sign Startf5+ *11
221Dirtnapf7B *2
222Mistral Startf6B 56
223Limbless Limbo Dancerf7A *69
224Dish Grabf6B+ *37
225Calcutta Ribf5+ 30
226Calcutta Traversef6A+ *136
227The Black Hole Startf7A *23
228Delhi Bellyf7C ***1
229Too Drunkf7A **56
230Drunk Enoughf6C+ *50
232Stretch Armstrongf6C+ **8
233Roof Problemf5+ 4
234The Squirmf4+ 6
235The Finger/Spike Leef5+ *2
236Handy Wallf4+ 8
237Mountyf4 14
238Barleyf5 * 
239Chasm Arêtef6A *4
240Sexy Stevef6A+ *1
241Scrackf3+ **22
242Reachy Wallf6A 7
243Runnel Rouserf5 8
244Risky Runnelf5+ 2
245The Gatesf7A *1
246Crinkly Wallf6A 14
247Ride My Pimpf6B 2
248The Downpipef6C 6
249Pipe Entryf7A+ 3
250Night Riderf7B+ 1
251Left Slabf4 25
252Tiny Groovef3+ 40
253Right Slabf3 42
254Cellar Dwellaf7A+ * 
255Cellar Slab 1f4+ 30
256Cellar Slab 2f5 33
257Easy Groovef3 47
259Pac Manf5 *3
260Two Chipsf4+ *3
261The Spectatorship of the Proletariat *E5 6b *2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13

This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11

There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09

Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05

Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04