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These details were last updated on 05/Feb/2014

Roaches Upper Tier

Staffordshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 257 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 450m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Access notes
Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.5mm rain
Cloudy
16 °C
20 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
17 °C
14 kph

0.4mm rain
Cloudy
18 °C
14 kph

3.7mm rain
Cloudy
17 °C
14 kph

3.8mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
11 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 LEFT HAND SECTION  
2RoosterVD *420
3Centre Slabf6C **10
4Chicken RunHVD *523
5Freak OutE1 5b 2
6Fern CrackS 4b **615
7HeartbleedHVS 5b 2
8Demon WallVS 5a *45
9Perverted StaircaseVS 5a 45
10Simpkin's OverhangE4 5b **7
11Inverted StaircaseD ***1219
12The Tower of Bizarre DelightsE3 5c *9
13The SublimeE2 5b *5
14PickpocketVS 4b 1
15CrenationE1 5a *13
16Heather Slab GrooveD 92
17Heather SlabS 3c *687
 WEST'S WALLABY AREA  
19Capitol ClimbHS 4a *190
20WombatE2 5b ***194
21Live BaitE4 5c * 
22West's WallabyVS 4c *172
23WallerooE2 5c **36
24Wallaby DirectHVS 5a *144
25Late Night FinalS 4a 32
 MAUD'S GARDEN AREA  
27The ValveE4 5c *10
28Beckermet SlabS 4b *297
29Maud's GardenS 4a ***1681
30LybstepVS 4b 16
31Contrary MaryVS 4b *134
32ColdfingerVS 4b 18
33Reset Portion of Galley 37S 4a 47
34Broken SlabS 4a 143
35Dawn PiperHVS 5b *11
36Runner RouteHS 4b *294
37GingE1 5c 7
38Damascus CrackHS 4b *950
39Damascus Crack Left-Hand FinishVS 4b 270
40Third Degree BurnE2 5b 8
41LibraHVS 4c *183
 THE CENTRAL MASSIF  
43Joe PublicHS 4a 10
44Lone AscentVS 4c 17
45Little PerforationsE2 6a 3
46WipersVS 4b 8
47Central MassiveD *82
48AquaVS 4b 279
49Public Enemy Number OneHVS 5a 4
50Quick BrewE2 5c *9
51Tealeaf CrackS 4a *204
52CornflakeM 17
53A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain SurgeryS 4a 41
 BLACK AND TANS AREA  
55Rotunda ButtressVS 4c *330
56Rotunda GullyM 109
57Bachelor's ButtressHVS 4c **321
58GypfastE4 5c *15
59Something BiblicalE2 6a *1
60Saul's CrackHVS 5a ***718
61HumdingerE1 5b *94
62Jeffcoat's Chimney VariationsHS 4c *14
63Jeffcoat's ChimneyVD **527
64Jeffcoat's Buttress VariationHS 4b ***8
65Jeffcoat's ButtressHS 5a **596
66The slug Trailf7A **1
67Hanging AroundHVS 5b *19
68Ruby TuesdayE2 5b **61
69Black and TansS 4a ***1443
70Black and Tans VariationsHVS 5a *66
71Black VelvetHVD 4a ***734
72Diamond WednesdayHVS 5a *201
 THE GREAT SLAB  
74Hollybush CrackVS 4b **335
75Technical SlabHS 4a **881
76The Neb FinishVS 4b **106
77GiltedE5 6a * 
78Painted RumourE6 6a ***10
79Pedestal Route VariationS 4a 52
80Pedestal RouteHVD 4a ***1206
81Loculus LieE5 6a **4
82The SlothHVS 5a ***963
83New Fi'nialE6 6b **1
84One Giant Lip for MankindE6 6b **1
85Central RouteVS 4b **574
86Right RouteVD ***1684
87Right Route RightHS 4b *134
88Kelly's DirectE1 5b **82
89Skin And WishbonesE8 7a *** 
90Kelly's ShelfS 4b *560
91Laughing all the way to the BlankE4 6a *3
92ParalogismE7 6c ***7
93AntithesisE5 6b ***2
94Bed of NailsE3 5b *4
 ROSCOE'S WALL AREA  
96Easy Gully WallS 4a 268
97Jelly RollVS 4b *257
98Magic ChildHVS 5a 9
99Ped X-ingE3 5c *4
100Roscoe's WallHVS 5b **21
101Roscoe's Wall/Round TableHVS 5b *198
102Crack and CornerHS 4c ***658
103Round TableE1 5a **16
104Babbacombe LeeE1 5b *120
105Fly UnitedE1 5c ** 
106Hangman's CrackS 4a 111
 BLUSHING BUTTRESS  
108Scarlet WallS 4a 227
109War WoundE1 6a *58
110Left Hand RouteHS 4b **712
111Right Hand RouteHS 4c **728
112Gully WallVS 4b 121
113Grilled FingersHVS 4c 7
114The RibHD 188
115Rib WallVD 218
116Rib Wall Direct StartS 4c *15
117SparkleHS 4b 111
 CALCUTTA BUTTRESS  
119Sign of the TimesE1 5c 29
120Calcutta CrackHS 4b *184
121MistralE2 6a *9
122Calcutta ButtressVS 5a *61
123GenetixE3 6a *2
124Stop... Carry on!HVS 5a 9
125Calcutta Crab DanceHS 4c **5
 RIGHT HAND END  
127PepperVS 5a 7
128GarlicHVS 5a 5
129Ou est le Spit?E6 6b *3
130Seams Polishedf5+ 27
 UPPER TIER BOULDERS  
 THE RIPPLE BOULDER  
 Climb nameGradex
133Left Arêtef4 161
134Grand Theftf7C *1
135The Ripplerf6A 157
136The Rippler Sit Startf7A 13
137The Bossf6C *54
138Ripple Arêtef4 7
 LITTLE BOULDER  
140Nosyf3+ 45
141Uprightf3+ 39
 THE NOSE  
143Crimpy Wallf4 155
144Nose Arête Leftf4+ 140
145Nose Arête Rightf5 87
146Nose Scoopf6A 88
147Nose Mantelf3+ 65
 JOE'S BOULDER  
149Big 'Olesf4+ 337
150Joe's Arêtef6A ***560
151Pink Wallf5 71
152Pink Wall Eliminatef6C+ 41
153Joe's Portholesf3+ *323
154Joe's Portholes Sit Startf4+ 41
155Joe's Portholes Eliminatef5+ 50
156Mean Ol' Bastardf7B *15
157Apocalypse Nowf7A+ *19
 THE LONG BOULDER  
159Nadin's Traversef7A ***88
160Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Linkf7A+ **10
161Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Linkf7B *7
162Jug Upf5 125
163Glued Upf5+ *47
164Regf6C+ 20
165Pixief5 43
166Staircasef4+ *222
167Cooper's Traversef6B *121
168Mantelf5 13
169Long Boulder Mantelf6B+ *28
 DON'S BOULDER  
171Don's Crackf4+ *277
172Don's Crack Eliminatef6B 45
173Don's Arêtef3+ *211
 THE WING  
175Wingerf5 55
176Wing Wongf5 102
177The Beakf6A+ 97
178Broken Wingf7A 62
 GREAT SLAB BOULDERING  
180Popperf3+ 27
181Slab Dancerf4 6
182Flap Dancerf7B 3
183The Lintelf5+ 30
184Cheesy Moonf4 14
185Long Traversef4+ 19
186Goat's Grufff4+ 24
187Goat's Eyef6A 31
188Goat's Eye - Sitting Startf6B+ 11
189The Monodoigtf7B+ 2
190Flake Museumf6A 5
191Scallopf4+ 7
 GROOVES BOULDER  
193Slippery Groovef5 60
194Arete on Leftf5 63
195Easy Groovef3+ 87
196Flakes and Chipsf4+ 271
197Flakes and Chips without the Chipsf6B 15
198Bancroft's 6bf7A+ 23
199Higginson's Armf7B+ ** 
200Left Groovef6B **54
201Right Groovef6A *61
202Vague Arêtef5 18
203The Nosef6B+ 43
204Juggy Groovef5 61
 CRACK AND CORNER AREA  
206Magic Crossingf5  
207Toucanf7A 5
208Lichenthropef7A+ **2
209Crack Indirectf5+  
210Crack Startf5 7
211Babbacombe Startf5 14
212Polishf7A+ 1
213Sheep Shitf7A+  
214Sheep Shit Crackf7A *9
215Oikf6A 5
 CALCUTTA BOULDERING  
217Bombay Overhangf5 *49
218Calcutta Crimpf6C *37
219Calcutta Meadowf7A **1
220Sleeping with the Flowersf6C+ *83
221Sign Startf5+ *12
222Dirtnapf7B *2
223Mistral Startf6B 57
224Limbless Limbo Dancerf7A *71
225Dish Grabf6B+ *37
226Calcutta Ribf5+ 33
227Calcutta Traversef6A+ *144
228The Black Hole Startf7A *23
229Delhi Bellyf7C ***1
230Too Drunkf7A **56
231Drunk Enoughf6C+ *51
 CELLAR/ATTIC BOULDERS  
233Stretch Armstrongf6C+ **8
234Roof Problemf5+ 4
235The Squirmf4+ 6
236The Finger/Spike Leef5+ *2
237Handy Wallf4+ 8
238Mountyf4 14
239Barleyf5 * 
240Chasm Arêtef6A *4
241Sexy Stevef6A+ *1
242Scrackf3+ **24
243Reachy Wallf6A 7
244Runnel Rouserf5 9
245Risky Runnelf5+ 2
246The Gatesf7A *1
247Crinkly Wallf6A 15
248Ride My Pimpf6B 2
249The Downpipef6C 6
250Pipe Entryf7A+ 3
251Night Riderf7B+ 1
252Left Slabf4 28
253Tiny Groovef3+ 44
254Right Slabf3 46
255Cellar Dwellaf7A+ * 
256Cellar Slab 1f4+ 32
257Cellar Slab 2f5 36
258Easy Groovef3 51
 WHERE ARE THESE??  
260Pac Manf5 *3
261Two Chipsf4+ *3
262The Spectatorship of the Proletariat *E5 6b *2
263Traversed to Scrack *f5+ *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13

This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11

There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09

Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05

Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04