Roaches Upper Tier

Climbs 257 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 450m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Access notes
Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LEFT HAND SECTION  
2RoosterVD *441
3Centre Slabf6C **10
4Chicken RunHVD *550
5Freak OutE1 5b 2
6Fern CrackS 4b **644
7HeartbleedHVS 5b 2
8Demon WallVS 5a *46
9Perverted StaircaseVS 5a 46
10Simpkin's OverhangE4 5b **7
11Inverted StaircaseD ***1267
12The Tower of Bizarre DelightsE3 5c *9
13The SublimeE2 5b *5
14PickpocketVS 4b 2
15CrenationE1 5a *15
16Heather Slab GrooveD 99
17Heather SlabS 3c *709
 WEST'S WALLABY AREA  
19Capitol ClimbHS 4a *196
20WombatE2 5b ***203
21Live BaitE4 5c * 
22West's WallabyVS 4c *180
23WallerooE2 5c **38
24Wallaby DirectHVS 5a *151
25Late Night FinalS 4a 32
 MAUD'S GARDEN AREA  
27The ValveE4 5c *10
28Beckermet SlabS 4b *309
29Maud's GardenS 4a ***1784
30LybstepVS 4b 18
31Contrary MaryVS 4b *139
32ColdfingerVS 4b 18
33Reset Portion of Galley 37S 4a 48
34Broken SlabS 4a 151
35Dawn PiperHVS 5b *12
36Runner RouteHS 4b *299
37GingE1 5c 7
38Damascus CrackHS 4b *1004
39Damascus Crack Left-Hand FinishVS 4b 291
40Third Degree BurnE2 5b 9
41LibraHVS 4c *188
 THE CENTRAL MASSIF  
43Joe PublicHS 4a 10
44Lone AscentVS 4c 19
45Little PerforationsE2 6a 3
46WipersVS 4b 10
47Central MassiveD *82
48AquaVS 4b 292
49Public Enemy Number OneHVS 5a 4
50Quick BrewE2 5c *10
51Tealeaf CrackS 4a *217
52CornflakeM 20
53A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain SurgeryS 4a 43
 BLACK AND TANS AREA  
55Rotunda ButtressVS 4c *350
56Rotunda GullyM 115
57Bachelor's ButtressHVS 4c **334
58GypfastE4 5c *15
59Something BiblicalE2 6a *1
60Saul's CrackHVS 5a ***760
61HumdingerE1 5b *97
62Jeffcoat's Chimney VariationsHS 4c *16
63Jeffcoat's ChimneyVD **551
64Jeffcoat's Buttress VariationHS 4b ***14
65Jeffcoat's ButtressHS 5a **630
66The slug Trailf7A **1
67Hanging AroundHVS 5b *19
68Ruby TuesdayE2 5b **61
69Black and TansS 4a ***1540
70Black and Tans VariationsHVS 5a *71
71Black VelvetHVD 4a ***783
72Diamond WednesdayHVS 5a *219
 THE GREAT SLAB  
74Hollybush CrackVS 4b **351
75Technical SlabHS 4a **945
76The Neb FinishVS 4b **112
77GiltedE5 6a * 
78Painted RumourE6 6a ***10
79Pedestal Route VariationS 4a 60
80Pedestal RouteHVD 4a ***1261
81Loculus LieE5 6a **4
82The SlothHVS 5a ***1031
83New Fi'nialE6 6b **1
84One Giant Lip for MankindE6 6b **1
85Central RouteVS 4b **603
86The Spectatorship of the ProletariatE5 6b *2
87Right RouteVD ***1761
88Right Route RightHS 4b *148
89Kelly's DirectE1 5b **88
90Skin And WishbonesE8 7a *** 
91Kelly's ShelfS 4b *588
92Laughing all the way to the BlankE4 6a *3
93ParalogismE7 6c ***7
94AntithesisE5 6b ***3
95Bed of NailsE3 5b *4
 ROSCOE'S WALL AREA  
97Easy Gully WallS 4a 289
98Jelly RollVS 4b *266
99Magic ChildHVS 5a 9
100Ped X-ingE3 5c *4
101Roscoe's WallHVS 5b **25
102Roscoe's Wall/Round TableHVS 5b *202
103Crack and CornerS 4c ***685
104Round TableE1 5a **18
105Babbacombe LeeE1 5b *122
106Fly UnitedE1 5c ** 
107Hangman's CrackS 4a 116
 BLUSHING BUTTRESS  
109Scarlet WallS 4a 235
110War WoundE1 6a *58
111Left Hand RouteHS 4b **749
112Right Hand RouteHS 4c **772
113Gully WallVS 4b 128
114Grilled FingersHVS 4c 7
115The RibS 4a 199
116Rib WallVD 231
117Rib Wall Direct StartS 4c *19
118SparkleHS 4b 113
 CALCUTTA BUTTRESS  
120Sign of the TimesE1 5c 33
121Calcutta CrackHS 4b *195
122MistralE2 6a *11
123Calcutta ButtressVS 5a *62
124GenetixE3 6a *2
125Stop... Carry on!HVS 5a 9
126Calcutta Crab DanceHS 4c **5
 RIGHT HAND END  
128PepperVS 5a 8
129GarlicHVS 5a 5
130Ou est le Spit?E6 6b *4
131Seams Polishedf5+ 28
 UPPER TIER BOULDERS  
 THE RIPPLE BOULDER  
134Left Arêtef4 176
135Grand Theftf7C *1
136The Ripplerf6A 172
137The Rippler Sit Startf7A 14
138The Bossf6C *56
139Ripple Arêtef4 14
 LITTLE BOULDER  
141Nosyf3+ 49
142Uprightf3+ 45
 THE NOSE  
144Crimpy Wallf4 172
145Nose Arête Leftf4+ 153
146Nose Arête Rightf5 99
147Nose Scoopf6A 98
148Nose Mantelf3+ 71
 JOE'S BOULDER  
150Big 'Olesf4+ 359
151Joe's Arêtef6A ***618
152Joe's RightV1 5b 3
153Pink Wallf5 80
154Pink Wall Eliminatef6C+ 44
155Joe's Portholesf3+ *350
156Joe's Portholes Sit Startf4+ 46
157Joe's Portholes Eliminatef5+ 55
158Mean Ol' Bastardf7B *16
159Apocalypse Nowf7A+ *20
 THE LONG BOULDER  
161Nadin's Traversef7A ***92
162Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Linkf7A+ **10
163Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Linkf7B *7
164Jug Upf5 136
165Glued Upf5+ *50
166Regf6C+ 26
167Pixief5 47
168Staircasef4+ *238
169Cooper's Traversef6B *125
170Mantelf5 18
171Long Boulder Mantelf6B+ *29
 DON'S BOULDER  
173Don's Crackf4+ *304
174Don's Crack Eliminatef6B 52
175Don's Arêtef3+ *232
 THE WING  
177Wingerf5 61
178Wing Wongf5 122
179The Beakf6A+ 111
180Broken Wingf7A 70
 GREAT SLAB BOULDERING  
182Popperf3+ 31
183Slab Dancerf4 8
184Flap Dancerf7B 3
185The Lintelf5+ 32
186Cheesy Moonf4 19
187Long Traversef4+ 22
188Goat's Grufff4+ 26
189Goat's Eyef6A 37
190Goat's Eye - Sitting Startf6B+ 13
191The Monodoigtf7B+ 3
192Flake Museumf6A 5
193Scallopf4+ 10
 GROOVES BOULDER  
195Slippery Groovef5 63
196Arete on Leftf5 70
197Easy Groovef3+ 92
198Flakes and Chipsf4+ 303
199Flakes and Chips without the Chipsf6B 20
200Bancroft's 6bf7A+ 27
201Higginson's Armf7B+ ** 
202Left Groovef6B **65
203Right Groovef6A *68
204Vague Arêtef5 18
205The Nosef6B+ 44
206Juggy Groovef5 72
 CRACK AND CORNER AREA  
208Magic Crossingf5  
209Toucanf7A 6
210Lichenthropef7A+ **5
211Crack Indirectf5+ 3
212Crack Startf5 13
213Babbacombe Startf5 18
214Polishf7A+  
215Sheep Shitf7A+  
216Sheep Shit Crackf7A *12
217Oikf6A 8
 CALCUTTA BOULDERING  
219Bombay Overhangf5 *55
220Calcutta Crimpf6C *40
221Calcutta Meadowf7A **1
222Sleeping with the Flowersf6C+ *84
223Sign Startf5+ *13
224Dirtnapf7B *2
225Mistral Startf6B 64
226Limbless Limbo Dancerf7A *79
227Dish Grabf6B+ *41
228Calcutta Ribf5+ 38
229Calcutta Traversef6A+ *150
230The Black Hole Startf7A *24
231Delhi Bellyf7C ***1
232Gritstone Bouldering Pissup *f6C **1
233Too Drunkf7A **58
234Drunk Enoughf6C+ *52
 CELLAR/ATTIC BOULDERS  
236Stretch Armstrongf6C+ **8
237Roof Problemf5+ 4
238The Squirmf4+ 9
239The Finger/Spike Leef5+ *2
240Handy Wallf4+ 8
241Mountyf4 14
242Barleyf5 * 
243Chasm Arêtef6A *4
244Sexy Stevef6A+ *1
245Scrackf3+ **27
246Reachy Wallf6A 7
247Runnel Rouserf5 9
248Risky Runnelf5+ 2
249The Gatesf7A *1
250Crinkly Wallf6A 15
251Ride My Pimpf6B 2
252The Downpipef6C 7
253Pipe Entryf7A+ 4
254Night Riderf7B+ 1
255Left Slabf4 30
256Tiny Groovef3+ 48
257Right Slabf3 51
258Cellar Dwellaf7A+ * 
259Cellar Slab 1f4+ 34
260Cellar Slab 2f5 43
261Easy Groovef3 57
 WHERE ARE THESE??  
263Pac Manf5 *3
264Two Chipsf4+ *3
265Traversed to Scrack *f5+ *1
266Upper Tier Ridge *3 *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13
This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11
There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09
Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05
Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04