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These details were last updated on 05/Feb/2014

Roaches Upper Tier

Staffordshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 257 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 450m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Access notes
Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
14 °C
14 kph

0.1mm rain
Cloudy
14 °C
23 kph

2.0mm rain
Sun
10 °C
27 kph

0.1mm rain
Sunny periods
13 °C
20 kph

9.5mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
26 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 LEFT HAND SECTION  
2RoosterVD *437
3Centre Slabf6C **10
4Chicken RunHVD *542
5Freak OutE1 5b 2
6Fern CrackS 4b **639
7HeartbleedHVS 5b 2
8Demon WallVS 5a *46
9Perverted StaircaseVS 5a 46
10Simpkin's OverhangE4 5b **7
11Inverted StaircaseD ***1252
12The Tower of Bizarre DelightsE3 5c *9
13The SublimeE2 5b *5
14PickpocketVS 4b 1
15CrenationE1 5a *15
16Heather Slab GrooveD 96
17Heather SlabS 3c *701
 WEST'S WALLABY AREA  
19Capitol ClimbHS 4a *194
20WombatE2 5b ***202
21Live BaitE4 5c * 
22West's WallabyVS 4c *175
23WallerooE2 5c **38
24Wallaby DirectHVS 5a *148
25Late Night FinalS 4a 32
 MAUD'S GARDEN AREA  
27The ValveE4 5c *10
28Beckermet SlabS 4b *304
29Maud's GardenS 4a ***1742
30LybstepVS 4b 16
31Contrary MaryVS 4b *136
32ColdfingerVS 4b 18
33Reset Portion of Galley 37S 4a 48
34Broken SlabS 4a 147
35Dawn PiperHVS 5b *11
36Runner RouteHS 4b *297
37GingE1 5c 7
38Damascus CrackHS 4b *982
39Damascus Crack Left-Hand FinishVS 4b 285
40Third Degree BurnE2 5b 9
41LibraHVS 4c *186
 THE CENTRAL MASSIF  
43Joe PublicHS 4a 10
44Lone AscentVS 4c 18
45Little PerforationsE2 6a 3
46WipersVS 4b 10
47Central MassiveD *82
48AquaVS 4b 287
49Public Enemy Number OneHVS 5a 4
50Quick BrewE2 5c *9
51Tealeaf CrackS 4a *214
52CornflakeM 19
53A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain SurgeryS 4a 42
 BLACK AND TANS AREA  
55Rotunda ButtressVS 4c *340
56Rotunda GullyM 113
57Bachelor's ButtressHVS 4c **331
58GypfastE4 5c *15
59Something BiblicalE2 6a *1
60Saul's CrackHVS 5a ***741
61HumdingerE1 5b *96
62Jeffcoat's Chimney VariationsHS 4c *14
63Jeffcoat's ChimneyVD **543
64Jeffcoat's Buttress VariationHS 4b ***10
65Jeffcoat's ButtressHS 5a **621
66The slug Trailf7A **1
67Hanging AroundHVS 5b *19
68Ruby TuesdayE2 5b **61
69Black and TansS 4a ***1505
70Black and Tans VariationsHVS 5a *68
71Black VelvetHVD 4a ***771
72Diamond WednesdayHVS 5a *215
 THE GREAT SLAB  
74Hollybush CrackVS 4b **344
75Technical SlabHS 4a **923
76The Neb FinishVS 4b **109
77GiltedE5 6a * 
78Painted RumourE6 6a ***10
79Pedestal Route VariationS 4a 55
80Pedestal RouteHVD 4a ***1239
81Loculus LieE5 6a **4
82The SlothHVS 5a ***1000
83New Fi'nialE6 6b **1
84One Giant Lip for MankindE6 6b **1
85Central RouteVS 4b **589
86The Spectatorship of the ProletariatE5 6b *2
87Right RouteVD ***1731
88Right Route RightHS 4b *141
89Kelly's DirectE1 5b **86
90Skin And WishbonesE8 7a *** 
91Kelly's ShelfS 4b *572
92Laughing all the way to the BlankE4 6a *3
93ParalogismE7 6c ***7
94AntithesisE5 6b ***2
95Bed of NailsE3 5b *4
 ROSCOE'S WALL AREA  
97Easy Gully WallS 4a 283
98Jelly RollVS 4b *262
99Magic ChildHVS 5a 9
100Ped X-ingE3 5c *4
101Roscoe's WallHVS 5b **22
102Roscoe's Wall/Round TableHVS 5b *199
103Crack and CornerHS 4c ***674
104Round TableE1 5a **16
105Babbacombe LeeE1 5b *121
106Fly UnitedE1 5c ** 
107Hangman's CrackS 4a 114
 BLUSHING BUTTRESS  
109Scarlet WallS 4a 234
110War WoundE1 6a *58
111Left Hand RouteHS 4b **739
112Right Hand RouteHS 4c **750
113Gully WallVS 4b 127
114Grilled FingersHVS 4c 7
115The RibHD 194
116Rib WallVD 224
117Rib Wall Direct StartS 4c *17
118SparkleHS 4b 113
 CALCUTTA BUTTRESS  
120Sign of the TimesE1 5c 30
121Calcutta CrackHS 4b *189
122MistralE2 6a *9
123Calcutta ButtressVS 5a *61
124GenetixE3 6a *2
125Stop... Carry on!HVS 5a 9
126Calcutta Crab DanceHS 4c **5
 RIGHT HAND END  
128PepperVS 5a 8
129GarlicHVS 5a 5
130Ou est le Spit?E6 6b *3
131Seams Polishedf5+ 27
 UPPER TIER BOULDERS  
 Climb nameGradex
 THE RIPPLE BOULDER  
134Left Arêtef4 166
135Grand Theftf7C *1
136The Ripplerf6A 158
137The Rippler Sit Startf7A 13
138The Bossf6C *54
139Ripple Arêtef4 8
 LITTLE BOULDER  
141Nosyf3+ 47
142Uprightf3+ 41
 THE NOSE  
144Crimpy Wallf4 160
145Nose Arête Leftf4+ 143
146Nose Arête Rightf5 89
147Nose Scoopf6A 93
148Nose Mantelf3+ 67
 JOE'S BOULDER  
150Big 'Olesf4+ 344
151Joe's Arêtef6A ***578
152Pink Wallf5 75
153Pink Wall Eliminatef6C+ 41
154Joe's Portholesf3+ *334
155Joe's Portholes Sit Startf4+ 43
156Joe's Portholes Eliminatef5+ 52
157Mean Ol' Bastardf7B *15
158Apocalypse Nowf7A+ *20
 THE LONG BOULDER  
160Nadin's Traversef7A ***88
161Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Linkf7A+ **10
162Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Linkf7B *7
163Jug Upf5 130
164Glued Upf5+ *49
165Regf6C+ 21
166Pixief5 44
167Staircasef4+ *228
168Cooper's Traversef6B *121
169Mantelf5 16
170Long Boulder Mantelf6B+ *29
 DON'S BOULDER  
172Don's Crackf4+ *286
173Don's Crack Eliminatef6B 46
174Don's Arêtef3+ *216
 THE WING  
176Wingerf5 57
177Wing Wongf5 108
178The Beakf6A+ 100
179Broken Wingf7A 64
 GREAT SLAB BOULDERING  
181Popperf3+ 28
182Slab Dancerf4 6
183Flap Dancerf7B 3
184The Lintelf5+ 31
185Cheesy Moonf4 16
186Long Traversef4+ 22
187Goat's Grufff4+ 24
188Goat's Eyef6A 32
189Goat's Eye - Sitting Startf6B+ 11
190The Monodoigtf7B+ 2
191Flake Museumf6A 5
192Scallopf4+ 8
 GROOVES BOULDER  
194Slippery Groovef5 61
195Arete on Leftf5 68
196Easy Groovef3+ 90
197Flakes and Chipsf4+ 281
198Flakes and Chips without the Chipsf6B 17
199Bancroft's 6bf7A+ 23
200Higginson's Armf7B+ ** 
201Left Groovef6B **54
202Right Groovef6A *61
203Vague Arêtef5 18
204The Nosef6B+ 43
205Juggy Groovef5 63
 CRACK AND CORNER AREA  
207Magic Crossingf5  
208Toucanf7A 5
209Lichenthropef7A+ **2
210Crack Indirectf5+  
211Crack Startf5 8
212Babbacombe Startf5 14
213Polishf7A+  
214Sheep Shitf7A+  
215Sheep Shit Crackf7A *9
216Oikf6A 5
 CALCUTTA BOULDERING  
218Bombay Overhangf5 *50
219Calcutta Crimpf6C *37
220Calcutta Meadowf7A **1
221Sleeping with the Flowersf6C+ *83
222Sign Startf5+ *12
223Dirtnapf7B *2
224Mistral Startf6B 57
225Limbless Limbo Dancerf7A *72
226Dish Grabf6B+ *38
227Calcutta Ribf5+ 34
228Calcutta Traversef6A+ *144
229The Black Hole Startf7A *23
230Delhi Bellyf7C ***1
231Gritstone Bouldering Pissup *f6C **1
232Too Drunkf7A **56
233Drunk Enoughf6C+ *51
 CELLAR/ATTIC BOULDERS  
235Stretch Armstrongf6C+ **8
236Roof Problemf5+ 4
237The Squirmf4+ 9
238The Finger/Spike Leef5+ *2
239Handy Wallf4+ 8
240Mountyf4 14
241Barleyf5 * 
242Chasm Arêtef6A *4
243Sexy Stevef6A+ *1
244Scrackf3+ **25
245Reachy Wallf6A 7
246Runnel Rouserf5 9
247Risky Runnelf5+ 2
248The Gatesf7A *1
249Crinkly Wallf6A 15
250Ride My Pimpf6B 2
251The Downpipef6C 6
252Pipe Entryf7A+ 3
253Night Riderf7B+ 1
254Left Slabf4 30
255Tiny Groovef3+ 46
256Right Slabf3 49
257Cellar Dwellaf7A+ * 
258Cellar Slab 1f4+ 33
259Cellar Slab 2f5 37
260Easy Groovef3 53
 WHERE ARE THESE??  
262Pac Manf5 *3
263Two Chipsf4+ *3
264Traversed to Scrack *f5+ *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13

This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11

There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09

Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05

Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04