Climbs 257
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces SW

Neb Buttress in the evening light © Fidget

Crag features

Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Approach notes

Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13
This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11
There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09
Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05
Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left Hand Section 
2RoosterVD *492
3Centre Slabf6C **20
4Chicken RunHVD *609
5Freak OutE1 5b 5
6Fern CrackS 4b **744
7HeartbleedHVS 5b 4
8Demon WallVS 5a *48
9Perverted StaircaseVS 5a 55
10Simpkin's OverhangE4 5b **7
11Inverted StaircaseD ***1449
12The Tower of Bizarre DelightsE3 5c *11
13The SublimeE2 5b *7
14PickpocketVS 4b 3
15CrenationE1 5a *18
16Heather Slab Groove
-
D 116
17Heather SlabS 3c *806
 West's Wallaby Area 
19Capitol ClimbHS 4a *213
20WombatE2 5b ***308
21Live BaitE4 5c *1
22West's WallabyVS 4c *204
23WallerooE2 5c **42
24Wallaby DirectHVS 5a *183
25Late Night FinalS 4a 35
 Maud's Garden Area 
27The ValveE4 5c *11
28Beckermet SlabS 4b *341
29Maud's GardenHVD 3c ***2050
30LybstepVS 4b 20
31Contrary MaryVS 4b *157
32ColdfingerVS 4b 22
33Reset Portion of Galley 37S 4a 59
34Broken SlabS 4a 159
35Dawn PiperHVS 5b *19
36Runner RouteHS 4b *342
37GingE1 5c 10
38Damascus CrackHS 4b *1125
39Damascus Crack Left-Hand Finish
-
VS 4b 338
40Third Degree BurnE2 5b 15
41LibraHVS 4c *219
 The Central Massif 
43Joe PublicHS 4a 12
44Lone Ascent
-
VS 4c 21
45Little PerforationsE2 6a 3
46WipersVS 4b 11
47Central MassiveD *88
48AquaVS 4b 340
49Public Enemy Number One
-
HVS 5a 5
50Quick BrewE2 5c *10
51Tealeaf CrackS 4a *245
52Cornflake
-
M 24
53A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain Surgery
-
S 4a 44
 Black and Tans Area 
55Rotunda ButtressVS 4c *407
56Rotunda GullyM 126
57Bachelor's ButtressHVS 4c **375
58GypfastE4 5c *18
59Something Biblical
-
E2 6a *1
60Saul's CrackHVS 5a ***960
61HumdingerE1 5b *116
62Jeffcoat's Chimney VariationsHS 4c *26
63Jeffcoat's ChimneyVD **636
64Jeffcoat's Buttress VariationHS 4b ***20
65Jeffcoat's ButtressHS 5a **733
66The slug Trailf7A **1
67Hanging AroundHVS 5b *24
68Ruby TuesdayE2 5b **69
69Black and TansS 4a ***1793
70Black and Tans Variations
-
HVS 5a *78
71Black VelvetHVD 4a ***884
72Diamond WednesdayHVS 5a *257
 The Great Slab 
74Hollybush CrackVS 4b **412
75Technical SlabHS 4a **1119
76The Neb Finish
-
VS 4b **143
77GiltedE5 6a * 
78Painted RumourE6 6a ***9
79Pedestal Route VariationS 4a 81
80Pedestal RouteHVD 4a ***1432
81Loculus LieE5 6a **5
82The SlothHVS 5a ***1753
83New Fi'nialE6 6b **1
84One Giant Lip for MankindE6 6b **1
85Central RouteVS 4b **681
86The Spectatorship of the ProletariatE5 6b *2
87Right RouteVD ***1976
88Right Route RightHS 4b *164
89Kelly's DirectE1 5b **95
90Skin And WishbonesE8 7a *** 
91Kelly's ShelfS 4b *636
92Laughing all the way to the BlankE4 6a *3
93ParalogismE7 6c ***8
94AntithesisE5 6b ***3
95Bed of NailsE3 5b *5
 Roscoe's Wall Area 
97Easy Gully WallS 4a 309
98Jelly RollVS 4b *295
99Magic ChildHVS 5a 11
100Ped X-ingE3 5c *5
101Roscoe's Wall
-
HVS 5b **55
102Roscoe's Wall/Round TableHVS 5b *210
103Crack and CornerS 4c ***813
104Round TableE1 5a **23
105Babbacombe LeeE1 5b *129
106Fly UnitedE1 5c ** 
107Hangman's CrackS 4a 137
 Blushing Buttress 
109Scarlet WallS 4a 264
110War WoundE1 6a *66
111Left Hand RouteHS 4b **835
112Right Hand RouteHS 4c **873
113Gully WallVS 4b 142
114Grilled FingersHVS 4c 13
115The RibS 4a 229
116Rib WallVD 266
117Rib Wall Direct StartS 4c *25
118SparkleHS 4b 125
 Calcutta Buttress 
120Sign of the TimesE1 5c 39
121Calcutta CrackHS 4b *227
122MistralE2 6a *14
123Calcutta ButtressVS 5a *68
124GenetixE3 6a *4
125Stop... Carry on!HVS 5a 11
126Calcutta Crab DanceHS 4c **5
 Right Hand End 
128Pepper
-
VS 5a 9
129Garlic
-
HVS 5a 7
130Ou est le Spit?E6 6b *4
131Seams Polished
-
f5+ 28
 UPPER TIER BOULDERS 
 The Ripple Boulder 
134Left ArÍte
-
f4 191
135Grand Theftf7C *1
136The Rippler
-
f6A 197
137The Rippler Sit Startf7A 20
138The Boss
-
f6C *57
139Ripple ArÍtef4 22
 Little Boulder 
141Nosyf3+ 57
142Uprightf3+ 51
 The Nose 
144Crimpy Wall
-
f4 197
145Nose ArÍte Left
-
f4+ 177
146Nose ArÍte Right
-
f5 113
147Nose Scoop
-
f6A 113
148Nose Mantel
-
f3+ 85
 Joe's Boulder 
150Big 'Oles
-
f4+ 408
151Joe's ArÍte
-
f6A ***735
152Joe's RightV1 16
153Pink Wallf5 108
154Pink Wall Eliminatef6C+ 54
155Joe's Portholes
-
f3+ *408
156Joe's Portholes Sit Start
-
f4+ 56
157Joe's Portholes Eliminatef5+ 63
158Mean Ol' Bastard
-
f7B *23
159Apocalypse Now
-
f7A+ *27
 The Long Boulder 
161Nadin's Traverse
-
f7A ***132
162Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Linkf7A+ **12
163Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Linkf7B *9
164Jug Up
-
f5 156
165Glued Up
-
f5+ *63
166Regf6C+ 34
167Pixie
-
f5 57
168Staircase
-
f4+ *268
169Cooper's Traversef6B *142
170Mantelf5 24
171Long Boulder Mantelf6B+ *35
 Don's Boulder 
173Don's Crack
-
f4+ *340
174Don's Crack Eliminatef6B 64
175Don's ArÍte
-
f3+ *251
 The Wing 
177Wingerf5 71
178Wing Wongf5 152
179The Beak
-
f6A+ 128
180Broken Wing
-
f7A 86
 Great Slab Bouldering 
182Popperf3+ 35
183Slab Dancerf4 13
184Flap Dancerf7B 4
185The Lintelf5+ 37
186Cheesy Moonf4 20
187Long Traversef4+ 37
188Goat's Grufff4+ 31
189Goat's Eyef6A 40
190Goat's Eye - Sitting Startf6B+ 20
191The Monodoigt
-
f7B+ 4
192Flake Museumf6A 6
193Scallopf4+ 13
 Grooves Boulder 
195Slippery Groove
-
f5 74
196ArÍte on Left
-
f5 85
197Easy Groove
-
f3+ 103
198Flakes and Chips
-
f4+ 342
199Flakes and Chips without the Chips
-
f6B 23
200Bancroft's 6bf7A+ 33
201Higginson's Arm
-
f7B+ **1
202Left Groove
-
f6B **84
203Right Groove
-
f6A *75
204Vague ArÍte
-
f5 20
205The Nose
-
f6B+ 55
206Juggy Groovef5 79
 Crack and Corner Area 
208Magic Crossing
-
f5  
209Toucanf7A 8
210Lichenthropef7A+ **7
211Crack Indirect
-
f5+ 4
212Crack Startf5 17
213Babbacombe Startf5 22
214Polishf7A+  
215Sheep Shitf7A+  
216Sheep Shit Crackf7A *13
217Oikf6A 11
 CALCUTTA BOULDERING 
219Bombay Overhang
-
f5 *63
220Calcutta Crimp
-
f6C *42
221Calcutta Meadowf7A **1
222Sleeping with the Flowers
-
f6C+ *90
223Sign Startf5+ *15
224Dirtnap
-
f7B *2
225Mistral Start
-
f6B 71
226Limbless Limbo Dancer
-
f7A *94
227Dish Grab
-
f6B+ *44
228Calcutta Rib
-
f5+ 39
229Calcutta Traversef6A+ *163
230The Black Hole Start
-
f7A *27
231Delhi Bellyf7C ***1
232Gritstone Bouldering Pissupf6C **1
233Too Drunk
-
f7A **77
234Drunk Enough
-
f6C+ *67
 CELLAR/ATTIC BOULDERS 
236Stretch Armstrong
-
f6C+ **8
237Roof Problemf5+ 4
238The Squirm
-
f4+ 9
239The Finger/Spike Lee
-
f5+ *1
240Handy Wall
-
f4+ 8
241Mountyf4 15
242Barleyf5 *1
243Chasm ArÍte
-
f6A *5
244Sexy Steve
-
f6A+ *2
245Scrackf3+ **31
246Reachy Wallf6A 9
247Runnel Rouser
-
f5 10
248Risky Runnel
-
f5+ 4
249The Gates
-
f7A *1
250Crinkly Wall
-
f6A 18
251Ride My Pimp
-
f6B 2
252The Downpipe
-
f6C 8
253Pipe Entryf7A+ 4
254Night Riderf7B+ 1
255Left Slabf4 36
256Tiny Groove
-
f3+ 52
257Right Slab
-
f3 55
258Cellar Dwella
-
f7A+ * 
259Cellar Slab 1f4+ 43
260Cellar Slab 2f5 52
261Easy Groovef3 71
 Where are these?? 
263Pac Man
-
f5 *2
264Two Chips
-
f4+ *2
265Traversed to Scrackf5+ *1
266Upper Tier Ridge3 *2
267The Nose Traversef6B *1
268Technical Slab + The Neb Finish *
-
HS 4a ***1
269Lip-Service *V7 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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