Climbs 257
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces SW

Neb Buttress in the evening light © Fidget

Crag features

Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Approach notes

Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
At the Roaches yesterday (Aug 29th, 2016) and everyone who parked outside of the marked parking areas in the Restricted Zone received a Penalty Notice (parking ticket from the Police).
afx22 - 30/Aug/16
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13
This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11
There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09
Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05
Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left-Hand Section 
2RoosterVD *533
3Centre Slabf6C **24
4Chicken RunHVD *647
5Freak OutE1 5b 4
6Fern CrackS 4b **793
7HeartbleedHVS 5b 4
8Demon WallVS 5a *48
9Perverted StaircaseVS 5a 56
10Simpkin's OverhangE4 5b **7
11Inverted StaircaseD ***1574
12The Tower of Bizarre DelightsE3 5c *11
13The SublimeE2 5b *9
14PickpocketVS 4b 3
15CrenationE1 5a *20
16Heather Slab Groove
-
D 134
17Heather SlabS 3c *839
 West's Wallaby Area 
19Capitol ClimbHS 4a *235
20WombatE2 5b ***336
21Live BaitE4 5c *1
22West's WallabyVS 4c *217
23WallerooE2 5c **53
24Wallaby DirectHVS 5a *200
25Late Night FinalS 4a 35
 Maud's Garden Area 
27The ValveE4 5c *13
28Beckermet SlabS 4b *380
29Maud's GardenHVD 3c ***2206
30LybstepVS 4b 20
31Contrary MaryVS 4b *177
32ColdfingerVS 4b 22
33Reset Portion of Galley 37S 4a 65
34Broken SlabS 4a 179
35Dawn PiperHVS 5b *23
36Runner RouteHS 4b *368
37GingE1 5c 11
38Damascus CrackHS 4b *1235
39Damascus Crack Left-Hand Finish
-
VS 4b 369
40Third Degree BurnE2 5b 15
41LibraHVS 4c *228
 The Central Massif 
43A Day at the SeasideVS 4b 1
44Joe PublicHS 4a 12
45Lone Ascent
-
VS 4c 21
46Little PerforationsE2 6a 3
47WipersVS 4b 11
48Central MassiveD *101
49AquaVS 4b 366
50Public Enemy Number One
-
HVS 5a 5
51Quick BrewE2 5c *10
52Tealeaf CrackS 4a *257
53Cornflake
-
M 24
54A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain Surgery
-
S 4a 45
 Black and Tans Area 
56Rotunda ButtressVS 4c *435
57Rotunda GullyM 130
58Bachelor's ButtressHVS 4c **428
59GypfastE4 5c *19
60Something Biblical
-
E2 6a *1
61Saul's CrackHVS 5a ***1035
62HumdingerE1 5b *136
63Jeffcoat's Chimney VariationsHS 4c *29
64Jeffcoat's ChimneyVD **677
65Jeffcoat's Buttress VariationHS 4b ***42
66Jeffcoat's ButtressHS 5a **803
67The slug Trailf7A **1
68Hanging AroundHVS 5b *26
69Ruby TuesdayE2 5b **86
70Black and TansS 4a ***1941
71Black and Tans Variations
-
HVS 5a *87
72Black VelvetHVD 4a ***1043
73Diamond WednesdayHVS 5a *294
 The Great Slab 
75Hollybush CrackVS 4b **445
76Technical SlabHS 4a **1233
77The Neb Finish
-
VS 4b **176
78Technical Slab + The Neb Finish
-
HS 4a ***9
79GiltedE5 6a * 
80Painted RumourE6 6a ***9
81Pedestal Route VariationS 4a 105
82Pedestal RouteHVD 4a ***1538
83Loculus LieE5 6a **5
84The SlothHVS 5a ***1898
85New Fi'nialE6 6b **1
86One Giant Lip for MankindE6 6b **1
87Central RouteVS 4b **747
88The Spectatorship of the ProletariatE5 6b *2
89Right RouteVD ***2141
90Right Route RightHS 4b *179
91Kelly's DirectE1 5b **116
92Skin And WishbonesE8 7a *** 
93Kelly's ShelfS 4b *722
94Laughing all the way to the BlankE4 6a *3
95ParalogismE7 6c ***9
96AntithesisE5 6b ***3
97Bed of NailsE3 5b *6
 Roscoe's Wall Area 
99Easy Gully WallS 4a 346
100Jelly RollVS 4b *326
101Magic ChildHVS 5a 11
102Ped X-ingE3 5c *5
103Roscoe's Wall
-
HVS 5b **91
104Roscoe's Wall/Round TableHVS 5b *229
105Crack and CornerS 4c ***868
106Round TableE1 5a **24
107Babbacombe LeeE1 5b *136
108Destination VenusHVS 5b 1
109Fly UnitedE1 5c ** 
110Hangman's CrackS 4a 144
 Blushing Buttress 
112Scarlet WallS 4a 297
113War WoundE1 6a *67
114Left Hand RouteHS 4b **930
115Right Hand RouteHS 4c **949
116Gully WallVS 4b 159
117Grilled FingersHVS 4c 13
118The RibS 4a 248
119Rib WallVD 284
120Rib Wall Direct StartS 4c *35
121SparkleHS 4b 137
 Calcutta Buttress 
123Sign of the TimesE1 5c 38
124Calcutta CrackHS 4b *241
125MistralE2 6a *14
126Calcutta ButtressVS 5a *71
127GenetixE3 6a *4
128Stop... Carry on!HVS 5a 12
129Calcutta Crab DanceHS 4c **6
 Right-Hand End 
131Pepper
-
VS 5a 10
132Garlic
-
HVS 5a 8
133Ou est le Spit?E6 6b *4
134Seams Polished
-
f5+ 28
 Upper Tier Boulders 
 The Ripple Boulder 
137Left ArÍte
-
f4 211
138Grand Theftf7C *1
139The Rippler
-
f6A 215
140The Rippler Sit Startf7A 23
141Lip-ServiceV7 1
142The Boss
-
f6C *59
143Ripple ArÍtef4 31
 Little Boulder 
145Nosyf3+ 68
146Uprightf3+ 61
 The Nose 
148The Nose Traversef6B *1
149Crimpy Wall
-
f4 221
150Nose ArÍte Left
-
f4+ 200
151Nose ArÍte Right
-
f5 129
152Nose Scoop
-
f6A 138
153Nose Mantel
-
f3+ 101
 Joe's Boulder 
155Big 'Oles
-
f4+ 461
156Joe's ArÍte
-
f6A ***816
157Joe's RightV1 27
158Pink Wallf5 133
159Pink Wall Eliminatef6C+ 60
160Joe's Portholes
-
f3+ *450
161Joe's Portholes Sit Start
-
f4+ 61
162Joe's Portholes Eliminatef5+ 72
163Mean Ol' Bastard
-
f7B *24
164Apocalypse Now
-
f7A+ *31
 The Long Boulder 
166Nadin's Traverse
-
f7A ***146
167Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Linkf7A+ **13
168Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Linkf7B *9
169Jug Up
-
f5 172
170Glued Up
-
f5+ *77
171Regf6C+ 44
172Pixie
-
f5 69
173Staircase
-
f4+ *294
174Cooper's Traverse ExtensionV5 2
175Cooper's Traversef6B *152
176Mantelf5 31
177Long Boulder Mantelf6B+ *36
 Don's Boulder 
179Don's Crack
-
f4+ *372
180Don's Crack Eliminatef6B 76
181Don's ArÍte
-
f3+ *279
 The Wing 
183Wingerf5 87
184Wing Wongf5 173
185The Beak
-
f6A+ 137
186Broken Wing
-
f7A 100
 Great Slab Bouldering 
188Popperf3+ 42
189Slab Dancerf4 20
190Flap Dancerf7B 5
191The Lintelf5+ 43
192Cheesy Moonf4 23
193Long Traversef4+ 46
194Goat's Grufff4+ 40
195Goat's Eyef6A 52
196Goat's Eye - Sitting Startf6B+ 24
197The Monodoigt
-
f7B+ 4
198Flake Museumf6A 9
199Scallopf4+ 14
 Grooves Boulder 
201Slippery Groove
-
f5 87
202ArÍte on Left
-
f5 93
203Easy Groove
-
f3+ 118
204Flakes and Chips
-
f4+ 370
205Flakes and Chips without the Chips
-
f6B 26
206Bancroft's 6bf7A+ 38
207Higginson's Arm
-
f7B+ **1
208Left Groove
-
f6B **88
209Right Groove
-
f6A *81
210Vague ArÍte
-
f5 21
211The Nose
-
f6B+ 55
212Juggy Groovef5 85
 Crack and Corner Area 
214Magic Crossing
-
f5 1
215Toucanf7A 8
216Lichenthropef7A+ **7
217Crack Indirect
-
f5+ 6
218Crack Startf5 20
219Babbacombe Startf5 26
220Polishf7A+ 2
221Sheep Shitf7A+ 1
222Sheep Shit Crackf7A *16
223Oikf6A 13
 Calcutta Bouldering 
225Bombay Overhang
-
f5 *64
226Calcutta Crimp
-
f6C *43
227Calcutta Meadowf7A **1
228Sleeping with the Flowers
-
f6C+ *92
229Sign Startf5+ *15
230Dirtnap
-
f7B *2
231Mistral Start
-
f6B 69
232Limbless Limbo Dancer
-
f7A *97
233Dish Grab
-
f6B+ *45
234Calcutta Rib
-
f5+ 39
235Calcutta Traversef6A+ *171
236The Black Hole Start
-
f7A *27
237Delhi Bellyf7C ***1
238Gritstone Bouldering Pissupf6C **1
239Too Drunk
-
f7A **89
240Drunk Enough
-
f6C+ *66
 Cellar/Attic Boulders 
242Stretch Armstrong
-
f6C+ **8
243Roof Problemf5+ 6
244The Squirm
-
f4+ 12
245The Finger/Spike Lee
-
f5+ *2
246Handy Wall
-
f4+ 11
247Mountyf4 19
248Barleyf5 *4
249Chasm ArÍte
-
f6A *5
250Sexy Steve
-
f6A+ *2
251Scrackf3+ **39
252Reachy Wallf6A 13
253Runnel Rouser
-
f5 12
254AreteV0- *2
255Risky Runnel
-
f5+ 6
256The Gates
-
f7A *1
257Crinkly Wall
-
f6A 22
258Ride My Pimp
-
f6B 2
259The Downpipe
-
f6C 8
260Pipe Entryf7A+ 4
261Night Riderf7B+ 1
262Left Slabf4 42
263Tiny Groove
-
f3+ 59
264Right Slab
-
f3 61
265Cellar Dwella
-
f7A+ * 
266Cellar Slab 1f4+ 49
267Cellar Slab 2f5 59
268Easy Groovef3 78
 Where are these?? 
270Pac Man
-
f5 *2
271Two Chips
-
f4+ *2
272Traversed to Scrackf5+ *1
273Upper Tier Ridge3 *3

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