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These details were last updated on 05/Feb/2014

Roaches Upper Tier

Staffordshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 257 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 450m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Access notes
Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Tue  Wed  Thu  Fri 

2.2mm rain
15 °C
15 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
8 kph

0.2mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
10 kph

0.0mm rain
19 °C
9 kph

0.2mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
13 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
2RoosterVD *427
3Centre Slabf6C **10
4Chicken RunHVD *534
5Freak OutE1 5b 2
6Fern CrackS 4b **624
7HeartbleedHVS 5b 2
8Demon WallVS 5a *45
9Perverted StaircaseVS 5a 45
10Simpkin's OverhangE4 5b **7
11Inverted StaircaseD ***1231
12The Tower of Bizarre DelightsE3 5c *9
13The SublimeE2 5b *5
14PickpocketVS 4b 1
15CrenationE1 5a *15
16Heather Slab GrooveD 94
17Heather SlabS 3c *695
19Capitol ClimbHS 4a *191
20WombatE2 5b ***198
21Live BaitE4 5c * 
22West's WallabyVS 4c *174
23WallerooE2 5c **38
24Wallaby DirectHVS 5a *148
25Late Night FinalS 4a 32
27The ValveE4 5c *10
28Beckermet SlabS 4b *300
29Maud's GardenS 4a ***1703
30LybstepVS 4b 16
31Contrary MaryVS 4b *134
32ColdfingerVS 4b 18
33Reset Portion of Galley 37S 4a 47
34Broken SlabS 4a 143
35Dawn PiperHVS 5b *11
36Runner RouteHS 4b *295
37GingE1 5c 7
38Damascus CrackHS 4b *968
39Damascus Crack Left-Hand FinishVS 4b 276
40Third Degree BurnE2 5b 9
41LibraHVS 4c *183
43Joe PublicHS 4a 10
44Lone AscentVS 4c 17
45Little PerforationsE2 6a 3
46WipersVS 4b 8
47Central MassiveD *82
48AquaVS 4b 281
49Public Enemy Number OneHVS 5a 4
50Quick BrewE2 5c *9
51Tealeaf CrackS 4a *209
52CornflakeM 17
53A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain SurgeryS 4a 41
55Rotunda ButtressVS 4c *334
56Rotunda GullyM 112
57Bachelor's ButtressHVS 4c **323
58GypfastE4 5c *15
59Something BiblicalE2 6a *1
60Saul's CrackHVS 5a ***726
61HumdingerE1 5b *95
62Jeffcoat's Chimney VariationsHS 4c *14
63Jeffcoat's ChimneyVD **534
64Jeffcoat's Buttress VariationHS 4b ***8
65Jeffcoat's ButtressHS 5a **606
66The slug Trailf7A **1
67Hanging AroundHVS 5b *19
68Ruby TuesdayE2 5b **61
69Black and TansS 4a ***1472
70Black and Tans VariationsHVS 5a *67
71Black VelvetHVD 4a ***753
72Diamond WednesdayHVS 5a *206
74Hollybush CrackVS 4b **340
75Technical SlabHS 4a **898
76The Neb FinishVS 4b **107
77GiltedE5 6a * 
78Painted RumourE6 6a ***10
79Pedestal Route VariationS 4a 54
80Pedestal RouteHVD 4a ***1220
81Loculus LieE5 6a **4
82The SlothHVS 5a ***974
83New Fi'nialE6 6b **1
84One Giant Lip for MankindE6 6b **1
85Central RouteVS 4b **579
86The Spectatorship of the ProletariatE5 6b *2
87Right RouteVD ***1703
88Right Route RightHS 4b *134
89Kelly's DirectE1 5b **83
90Skin And WishbonesE8 7a *** 
91Kelly's ShelfS 4b *565
92Laughing all the way to the BlankE4 6a *3
93ParalogismE7 6c ***7
94AntithesisE5 6b ***2
95Bed of NailsE3 5b *4
97Easy Gully WallS 4a 270
98Jelly RollVS 4b *258
99Magic ChildHVS 5a 9
100Ped X-ingE3 5c *4
101Roscoe's WallHVS 5b **21
102Roscoe's Wall/Round TableHVS 5b *198
103Crack and CornerHS 4c ***668
104Round TableE1 5a **16
105Babbacombe LeeE1 5b *121
106Fly UnitedE1 5c ** 
107Hangman's CrackS 4a 111
109Scarlet WallS 4a 230
110War WoundE1 6a *58
111Left Hand RouteHS 4b **723
112Right Hand RouteHS 4c **737
113Gully WallVS 4b 123
114Grilled FingersHVS 4c 7
115The RibHD 191
116Rib WallVD 221
117Rib Wall Direct StartS 4c *16
118SparkleHS 4b 112
120Sign of the TimesE1 5c 29
121Calcutta CrackHS 4b *184
122MistralE2 6a *9
123Calcutta ButtressVS 5a *61
124GenetixE3 6a *2
125Stop... Carry on!HVS 5a 9
126Calcutta Crab DanceHS 4c **5
128PepperVS 5a 7
129GarlicHVS 5a 5
130Ou est le Spit?E6 6b *3
131Seams Polishedf5+ 27
 Climb nameGradex
134Left Arêtef4 164
135Grand Theftf7C *1
136The Ripplerf6A 157
137The Rippler Sit Startf7A 13
138The Bossf6C *54
139Ripple Arêtef4 7
141Nosyf3+ 45
142Uprightf3+ 39
144Crimpy Wallf4 158
145Nose Arête Leftf4+ 142
146Nose Arête Rightf5 88
147Nose Scoopf6A 91
148Nose Mantelf3+ 65
150Big 'Olesf4+ 340
151Joe's Arêtef6A ***568
152Pink Wallf5 71
153Pink Wall Eliminatef6C+ 41
154Joe's Portholesf3+ *327
155Joe's Portholes Sit Startf4+ 41
156Joe's Portholes Eliminatef5+ 51
157Mean Ol' Bastardf7B *15
158Apocalypse Nowf7A+ *19
160Nadin's Traversef7A ***88
161Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Linkf7A+ **10
162Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Linkf7B *7
163Jug Upf5 126
164Glued Upf5+ *48
165Regf6C+ 20
166Pixief5 43
167Staircasef4+ *223
168Cooper's Traversef6B *121
169Mantelf5 14
170Long Boulder Mantelf6B+ *28
172Don's Crackf4+ *280
173Don's Crack Eliminatef6B 46
174Don's Arêtef3+ *213
176Wingerf5 56
177Wing Wongf5 105
178The Beakf6A+ 99
179Broken Wingf7A 63
181Popperf3+ 28
182Slab Dancerf4 6
183Flap Dancerf7B 3
184The Lintelf5+ 31
185Cheesy Moonf4 16
186Long Traversef4+ 22
187Goat's Grufff4+ 24
188Goat's Eyef6A 32
189Goat's Eye - Sitting Startf6B+ 11
190The Monodoigtf7B+ 2
191Flake Museumf6A 5
192Scallopf4+ 8
194Slippery Groovef5 60
195Arete on Leftf5 64
196Easy Groovef3+ 87
197Flakes and Chipsf4+ 274
198Flakes and Chips without the Chipsf6B 16
199Bancroft's 6bf7A+ 23
200Higginson's Armf7B+ ** 
201Left Groovef6B **54
202Right Groovef6A *61
203Vague Arêtef5 18
204The Nosef6B+ 43
205Juggy Groovef5 62
207Magic Crossingf5  
208Toucanf7A 5
209Lichenthropef7A+ **2
210Crack Indirectf5+  
211Crack Startf5 8
212Babbacombe Startf5 15
213Polishf7A+ 1
214Sheep Shitf7A+  
215Sheep Shit Crackf7A *9
216Oikf6A 5
218Bombay Overhangf5 *50
219Calcutta Crimpf6C *37
220Calcutta Meadowf7A **1
221Sleeping with the Flowersf6C+ *83
222Sign Startf5+ *12
223Dirtnapf7B *2
224Mistral Startf6B 57
225Limbless Limbo Dancerf7A *71
226Dish Grabf6B+ *37
227Calcutta Ribf5+ 34
228Calcutta Traversef6A+ *144
229The Black Hole Startf7A *23
230Delhi Bellyf7C ***1
231Too Drunkf7A **56
232Drunk Enoughf6C+ *51
234Stretch Armstrongf6C+ **8
235Roof Problemf5+ 4
236The Squirmf4+ 7
237The Finger/Spike Leef5+ *2
238Handy Wallf4+ 8
239Mountyf4 14
240Barleyf5 * 
241Chasm Arêtef6A *4
242Sexy Stevef6A+ *1
243Scrackf3+ **25
244Reachy Wallf6A 7
245Runnel Rouserf5 9
246Risky Runnelf5+ 2
247The Gatesf7A *1
248Crinkly Wallf6A 15
249Ride My Pimpf6B 2
250The Downpipef6C 6
251Pipe Entryf7A+ 3
252Night Riderf7B+ 1
253Left Slabf4 28
254Tiny Groovef3+ 44
255Right Slabf3 47
256Cellar Dwellaf7A+ * 
257Cellar Slab 1f4+ 33
258Cellar Slab 2f5 36
259Easy Groovef3 51
261Pac Manf5 *3
262Two Chipsf4+ *3
263Traversed to Scrack *f5+ *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13

This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11

There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09

Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05

Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04