Roaches Upper Tier

Climbs 257 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 450m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Access notes
Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 LEFT HAND SECTION 
2RoosterVD *
3Centre Slabf6C **
4Chicken RunHVD *
5Freak OutE1 5b
6Fern CrackS 4b **
7HeartbleedHVS 5b
8Demon WallVS 5a *
9Perverted StaircaseVS 5a
10Simpkin's OverhangE4 5b **
11Inverted StaircaseD ***
12The Tower of Bizarre DelightsE3 5c *
13The SublimeE2 5b *
14PickpocketVS 4b
15CrenationE1 5a *
16Heather Slab GrooveD
17Heather SlabS 3c *
 WEST'S WALLABY AREA 
19Capitol ClimbHS 4a *
20WombatE2 5b ***
21Live BaitE4 5c *
22West's WallabyVS 4c *
23WallerooE2 5c **
24Wallaby DirectHVS 5a *
25Late Night FinalS 4a
 MAUD'S GARDEN AREA 
27The ValveE4 5c *
28Beckermet SlabS 4b *
29Maud's GardenS 4a ***
30LybstepVS 4b
31Contrary MaryVS 4b *
32ColdfingerVS 4b
33Reset Portion of Galley 37S 4a
34Broken SlabS 4a
35Dawn PiperHVS 5b *
36Runner RouteHS 4b *
37GingE1 5c
38Damascus CrackHS 4b *
39Damascus Crack Left-Hand FinishVS 4b
40Third Degree BurnE2 5b
41LibraHVS 4c *
 THE CENTRAL MASSIF 
43Joe PublicHS 4a
44Lone AscentVS 4c
45Little PerforationsE2 6a
46WipersVS 4b
47Central MassiveD *
48AquaVS 4b
49Public Enemy Number OneHVS 5a
50Quick BrewE2 5c *
51Tealeaf CrackS 4a *
52CornflakeM
53A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain SurgeryS 4a
 BLACK AND TANS AREA 
55Rotunda ButtressVS 4c *
56Rotunda GullyM
57Bachelor's ButtressHVS 4c **
58GypfastE4 5c *
59Something BiblicalE2 6a *
60Saul's CrackHVS 5a ***
61HumdingerE1 5b *
62Jeffcoat's Chimney VariationsHS 4c *
63Jeffcoat's ChimneyVD **
64Jeffcoat's Buttress VariationHS 4b ***
65Jeffcoat's ButtressHS 5a **
66The slug Trailf7A **
67Hanging AroundHVS 5b *
68Ruby TuesdayE2 5b **
69Black and TansS 4a ***
70Black and Tans VariationsHVS 5a *
71Black VelvetHVD 4a ***
72Diamond WednesdayHVS 5a *
 THE GREAT SLAB 
74Hollybush CrackVS 4b **
75Technical SlabHS 4a **
76The Neb FinishVS 4b **
77GiltedE5 6a *
78Painted RumourE6 6a ***
79Pedestal Route VariationS 4a
80Pedestal RouteHVD 4a ***
81Loculus LieE5 6a **
82The SlothHVS 5a ***
83New Fi'nialE6 6b **
84One Giant Lip for MankindE6 6b **
85Central RouteVS 4b **
86The Spectatorship of the ProletariatE5 6b *
87Right RouteVD ***
88Right Route RightHS 4b *
89Kelly's DirectE1 5b **
90Skin And WishbonesE8 7a ***
91Kelly's ShelfS 4b *
92Laughing all the way to the BlankE4 6a *
93ParalogismE7 6c ***
94AntithesisE5 6b ***
95Bed of NailsE3 5b *
 ROSCOE'S WALL AREA 
97Easy Gully WallS 4a
98Jelly RollVS 4b *
99Magic ChildHVS 5a
100Ped X-ingE3 5c *
101Roscoe's WallHVS 5b **
102Roscoe's Wall/Round TableHVS 5b *
103Crack and CornerHS 4c ***
104Round TableE1 5a **
105Babbacombe LeeE1 5b *
106Fly UnitedE1 5c **
107Hangman's CrackS 4a
 BLUSHING BUTTRESS 
109Scarlet WallS 4a
110War WoundE1 6a *
111Left Hand RouteHS 4b **
112Right Hand RouteHS 4c **
113Gully WallVS 4b
114Grilled FingersHVS 4c
115The RibHD
116Rib WallVD
117Rib Wall Direct StartS 4c *
118SparkleHS 4b
 CALCUTTA BUTTRESS 
120Sign of the TimesE1 5c
121Calcutta CrackHS 4b *
122MistralE2 6a *
123Calcutta ButtressVS 5a *
124GenetixE3 6a *
125Stop... Carry on!HVS 5a
126Calcutta Crab DanceHS 4c **
 RIGHT HAND END 
128PepperVS 5a
129GarlicHVS 5a
130Ou est le Spit?E6 6b *
131Seams Polishedf5+
 UPPER TIER BOULDERS 
 THE RIPPLE BOULDER 
134Left Arêtef4
135Grand Theftf7C *
136The Ripplerf6A
137The Rippler Sit Startf7A
138The Bossf6C *
139Ripple Arêtef4
 LITTLE BOULDER 
141Nosyf3+
142Uprightf3+
 THE NOSE 
144Crimpy Wallf4
145Nose Arête Leftf4+
146Nose Arête Rightf5
147Nose Scoopf6A
148Nose Mantelf3+
 JOE'S BOULDER 
150Big 'Olesf4+
151Joe's Arêtef6A ***
152Pink Wallf5
153Pink Wall Eliminatef6C+
154Joe's Portholesf3+ *
155Joe's Portholes Sit Startf4+
156Joe's Portholes Eliminatef5+
157Mean Ol' Bastardf7B *
158Apocalypse Nowf7A+ *
 THE LONG BOULDER 
160Nadin's Traversef7A ***
161Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Linkf7A+ **
162Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Linkf7B *
163Jug Upf5
164Glued Upf5+ *
165Regf6C+
166Pixief5
167Staircasef4+ *
168Cooper's Traversef6B *
169Mantelf5
170Long Boulder Mantelf6B+ *
 DON'S BOULDER 
172Don's Crackf4+ *
173Don's Crack Eliminatef6B
174Don's Arêtef3+ *
 THE WING 
176Wingerf5
177Wing Wongf5
178The Beakf6A+
179Broken Wingf7A
 GREAT SLAB BOULDERING 
181Popperf3+
182Slab Dancerf4
183Flap Dancerf7B
184The Lintelf5+
185Cheesy Moonf4
186Long Traversef4+
187Goat's Grufff4+
188Goat's Eyef6A
189Goat's Eye - Sitting Startf6B+
190The Monodoigtf7B+
191Flake Museumf6A
192Scallopf4+
 GROOVES BOULDER 
194Slippery Groovef5
195Arete on Leftf5
196Easy Groovef3+
197Flakes and Chipsf4+
198Flakes and Chips without the Chipsf6B
199Bancroft's 6bf7A+
200Higginson's Armf7B+ **
201Left Groovef6B **
202Right Groovef6A *
203Vague Arêtef5
204The Nosef6B+
205Juggy Groovef5
 CRACK AND CORNER AREA 
207Magic Crossingf5
208Toucanf7A
209Lichenthropef7A+ **
210Crack Indirectf5+
211Crack Startf5
212Babbacombe Startf5
213Polishf7A+
214Sheep Shitf7A+
215Sheep Shit Crackf7A *
216Oikf6A
 CALCUTTA BOULDERING 
218Bombay Overhangf5 *
219Calcutta Crimpf6C *
220Calcutta Meadowf7A **
221Sleeping with the Flowersf6C+ *
222Sign Startf5+ *
223Dirtnapf7B *
224Mistral Startf6B
225Limbless Limbo Dancerf7A *
226Dish Grabf6B+ *
227Calcutta Ribf5+
228Calcutta Traversef6A+ *
229The Black Hole Startf7A *
230Delhi Bellyf7C ***
231Gritstone Bouldering Pissup *f6C **
232Too Drunkf7A **
233Drunk Enoughf6C+ *
 CELLAR/ATTIC BOULDERS 
235Stretch Armstrongf6C+ **
236Roof Problemf5+
237The Squirmf4+
238The Finger/Spike Leef5+ *
239Handy Wallf4+
240Mountyf4
241Barleyf5 *
242Chasm Arêtef6A *
243Sexy Stevef6A+ *
244Scrackf3+ **
245Reachy Wallf6A
246Runnel Rouserf5
247Risky Runnelf5+
248The Gatesf7A *
249Crinkly Wallf6A
250Ride My Pimpf6B
251The Downpipef6C
252Pipe Entryf7A+
253Night Riderf7B+
254Left Slabf4
255Tiny Groovef3+
256Right Slabf3
257Cellar Dwellaf7A+ *
258Cellar Slab 1f4+
259Cellar Slab 2f5
260Easy Groovef3
 WHERE ARE THESE?? 
262Pac Manf5 *
263Two Chipsf4+ *
264Traversed to Scrack *f5+ *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13
This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11
There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09
Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05
Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 05/Feb/2014
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