Roaches Skyline

Climbs 274 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 470m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A pleasant escape from the crowds at the main edge, particularly the further left you go. Smaller (8 to 20m), but open, quick drying and less worn, the Skyline is well worth a few visits with excellent micro-routes on superb rock. Recommended routes include Slab and Arete (S), Safety Net (E1), Acid Drop (E4), San Melas (E3), Entropy's Jaw (E5), Wings of Unreason (E4), Track of the Cat (E5) and Art Nouveau (E6). Quality bouldering areas include Doxey's Pool and the miniaturesque Very, Very Far Skyline.

Approach notes
Limited parking below the Roaches. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Small Chasm AreteV1 5b *36
3Green Jam CrackV0- 4c 6
4Rounded AreteVB *112
5Open GrooveV1 5b *104
6Two Pocket SlabV2 5c **152
7Lazy TroutV2 5c 103
8Eager TroutV2 5c 69
9Clamp AreteV3 6a 70
10Clamp Arete - Sit-startV7 6b 32
11CrackVB 4a 49
12Harry PatchV0 4c 35
13BernieV3 6a 35
14Bernie Sit StartV6 *18
15Off Fingers CrackV2 5c 39
16Pinkies to Perkiesf3 78
17Slab CrackVB 4a 12
18Slab WalkV0- 4a 66
19Slab AreteV1 5c 38
20Inner Tubef6A+ 55
21Short AreteV0- 5a 28
22Wall and RibV0- 4c 90
23Left CrackV0- 4b 102
24Right CrackV0- 4b 91
25Easy RampV0- 4a 83
26Flight Examf4+ **166
27The LonerV3 5b 55
28The Shepherdf6C+ 6b **10
29Leek Hillsf6B 6a *45
31Willow FarmE4 6a **20
32Enchanted ForestE2 5c **11
33Track of the CatE5 6a ***77
34Nature TrailE5 6b *24
35Wings of UnreasonE4 6a ***352
36Counterstroke of EquityE5 6c *6
37Counterstroke of Equity DirectE7 6c ***1
38Prelude to SpaceHVS 4c **214
39One Eyed Willyf7A+ *2
40Very ConnoisseurishE2 6a 9
41The Parrot and the BalaclavaHS 4b 8
42Crack (Art Nouveau)V0- 4b 8
44CurvatureVS 4b 23
45Mr DecisiveHVS 5b 15
46Triple PointE1 5c *73
47Triple Point Directnone 6b 5
48Wild ThingHVS 5c **186
49Wild Thing Sit Startf6B **5
50Pereverse Traversef7B+ *** 
51Entropy's JawE5 6b ***53
52Script for a TierE6 6c *8
53Mild ThingD *61
55Side-pull Wallf7A+ *26
56CrackV0- 4b 15
57Flaky Rompf4 4
58Juggy Flakelinef4 *4
59Crack and Aretef6A+ *1
60Mono Slabf3 9
61Art NouveauE6 6c ***13
62Coma SutraHS 4b 10
63Transcendental MedicationD 7
65MicrocosmD 10
66Flutterbye GroovesS 4a 10
67Tree CornerD 8
68Tree GroovesVD 13
69SteeplechaserD *16
70SlitherS 14
71MudhopperVD 8
72DazzlerS 4a *11
73Steeplechase CrackVD 8
74Honky TonkS 4a **22
75Entente CordialeE3 5c *10
76The ChimneyS 4b *11
77DanglerVS 4b 18
78Black Ram AreteVS 4c *16
79Black RamVD 18
80Don't Go Down to the Woods TodayVS 4b *12
82Rounded FeatureV0+ 5a 10
83Triptych Groovef7A+ *8
84Gritstone Pimplef6B 4
85Rampf4 5
86Mantelf4+ 9
87Harder Mantelf6A+ 6
88Acne Aretef7A *1
89Squeezer's Spotsf6C * 
90Spotter's Popf6B 1
91Puss in Bootsf6C 1
92Spotter's Slopf7A 3
94Soggy Bottom Crackf6A 6
95Staffordshire Facef6C 5
96The Staffordshire Flyerf6B ***204
97The Aretef6C 48
98Another Nadin Traversef7C *2
99The Drowning Poolf7A+ ***13
100The Drowning Pool - standing startV4 **29
101Groovy CrackV1 5b 120
102Chipped WallV0- 4b 127
103Thin FlakeV1 5b 89
104The Drowning TraverseV1 5b 17
105Slanting CrackVB 21
106Arete on LeftV4 6b 22
107Arete on RightV2 5b 49
108Blind Flakef5+ *80
109Little Pocket Slab LeftV5 6b **14
110ArchwayV3 6a 13
111Little Flakef6A+ *106
112Little Flake Sit-startV5 6b 3
113Bulging Aretef6A 65
114Easy Aretef3 99
115Pancakef4 157
116Li'l CrackVB 79
117Li'l AreteVB 13
118The Man with the Red Facef7A **2
119The Mermaidf6A **4
121Bone IdolVS 4c 6
122OmegaS 4a 13
123MelaleucionHVS 5a *60
124RodeoE1 6a *6
125DevotoedVS 5a 101
126AlphaVD *222
127Alpha AreteS 4a *250
128Breakfast CornerM 125
129Formative YearsE3 6a 35
130Breakfast ProblemVD *345
131Days Gone ByS 4a *244
132San MelasE3 5c ***284
133Hallow to our MenE4 6b *4
134MantisE1 5b ***121
135Bounty KillerVS 5a 11
136SennapodVD 121
137Sennapod CrackVD 99
13839th StepE2 6a 27
139Wallaby WallHS 4b *240
140Definitive GazeE1 5c *51
141Right-hand RouteS 4a **195
142Pretty GrittyE1 5c 7
143Looking for TodayHVS 5b *46
145Go GirlHVD 8
146Come GirlHS 4b 9
147Bilberry TraverseVS 4a 5
148SlipsE3 6a 8
149Pinnacle CrackD 54
150Split PersonalityE1 5b 38
151Pinnacle AreteVS 4c *106
152Pinnacle SlabHVD 28
153Sonny's RouteVS 4c *5
154Mantelshelf SlabVS 4b *155
155Enigma VariationE2 5b **123
156Karabiner ChimneyHVD *118
157Karabiner SlabHVS 4c *133
158Karabiner CracksD 81
159Slab and AreteS 4a **419
160Drop AcidE4 6a 4
161Acid DropE4 5c **35
162SkytrainE2 5b *31
163As Time Goes ByVD 3
164Purple FingersHS 4b 3
165Sally JamesVS 4c 11
166Mistaken IdentityS 4a 21
167Capstan's CornerD 22
168Cave ButtressVD 9
169Cave AreteS 4a *86
170StephenVS 5a *6
171AutomatixE2 5b 4
172Cave CrackHVS 5a *33
173King SwingVS 5a 7
174ConnectorVS 4b 17
175JoinerVD *44
176Sorcerer's ApprenticeVS 4c 6
177Tower EliminateHVS 5b *14
178Tower FaceE2 5b *34
179Tower ChimneyD *96
180Perched Block AreteVD **166
181Perched Block Arete, Direct FinishVS 4b *29
182Perched Block Arete (right hand finish)HVS 4c *8
183ThrugVS 5a **187
185Bad PoyntD *182
186OversightHVD *200
187Wad Man SlangS 4a 18
188Cold Man's FingerE1 5b *26
189OgdenVD **338
190Ogden AreteHS 4c *199
191Ogden RecessVD 66
192Black PigVS 4c *257
193Spare RibVS 4c *122
194Bad SneakersE2 5c 45
195SpectrumHVS 4c 44
196Middleton's MotionVS 4b 31
197Rowan Tree TraverseVD *15
198Strain StationE4 5c *1
199TopazE2 5b **79
200Letter Box CracksVS 4c *17
201Letter Box GullyM 52
202Hank's HorrorE1 5b 8
203Paul's PufferE4 6b 6
204Pebbles on a Wessex BeachE3 5c 6
205Safety NetE1 5b ***475
206Ear 'ereE2 6a *1
207ShortcomingsE1 5c **185
208Left Twin CrackHS 4b 89
209Square ChimneyD 107
210Trio ChimneyVD *47
211SubstanceVS 4c 50
212LighthouseVD 287
213Ralph's MantelshelvesS 4a 111
214Ralph's DirectHVD 4a 11
216Condor SlabVS 4c **353
217A.M. AnaestheticHVS 4c *71
218Cracked AreteHVD *241
219Condor ChimneyVD 127
220NosepickerE1 5a *73
221Licensed to fillHVS 4c 12
222Time to be HadHVD **251
223Toxic SocksHVS 5b 23
224Tobacco RoadVS 4c 152
225WheezeHVS 4c *59
226Bruno FlakeVS 4b *97
227Navy CutVD 135
228False ChicaneVD 62
229ChicaneS 4a 139
230Lung CancerS 3c 104
231SouthpawS 14
232Happy HookerHVS 5b 3
233The PugilistHVS 5c *12
234Cave ExitV7 6b 2
236Flakesf5 19
237Cube Crackf3+ 15
238Jumpf6C *21
239The Cube Directf7B+ *2
240The Cubef6B **42
241The PubeV3 6a 19
242Right PubeV4 6a 6
243Cube Traversef6A+ *1
244K2VB 30
245K3V0- 5a 8
246Summit SlabV1 5b 8
247Notch Slabf4+ 33
2482KVB 7
249Traverse Of The Triangular SlabV0+ 5b 9
251Inspiration PointHVS 5b 2
2525+f5 *3
253King DingV8 *1
254P13 (very far bouldersV0- 4a 2
255P14 (very far boulders)V1 5c 3
256AbstractHVS 5a 2
257Pop ArtVS 5a 6
258Deep in MysteryE1 5b 2
259ChicaneryHVD 3
260Proto-chickenS 4b 1
261ChickenS 1
262EggS 1
263ChronicleVS 5b 3
264OversiteVD 19
265Bulging Arete (undercut start)f6B+ 5
266In PassingE2 5c *7
267Johnny Pooh PoohedE2 6a 2
268Rassp!E2 5c 3
269ShrugE2 5b **5
270Curiosity KittenE3 6a 2
271Poodle VindalooE2 5c 2
272Wicked WindE3 5c **1
273The calf pathE2 6b 1
274Jamming Crackf4 3
275Sennopod CrackVD 2
276Recess Wall and AreteHVS 4c 1
277Square arÍtef6B+ 1
278Back CrackV1 5b *1
279Not so FastVS 5a  
280Jurrasic WorldE3 5a *1
281The Hang Before TimeE2 5b **1
282Leek FlakeV1 5b *1
283Scooby right wallV1 1
284Dr HydeV2 1
285Dr JackelV7 1
286Theos PatchVB 1
287Les CrackVS 4c *1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Who nicked "Tightrope" used to go across the San Melas slab and finsih up "Mantis"...??
Chris.Allott - 11/Jul/13
Its just that little further away from the road, just a bit soggier underfoot, and the wind is definatly stronger. But this adds up to a quiet group of buttresses, even on busy days despite a load of interesting little routes in the mid grades.
augustus trout - 11/Apr/10
There is also some lesser known but worthwhile bouldering on either side of the approach path to Hard Very Far Skyline from the N (before the trig point). Highlights include some rounded mantels on the far side of the first rocks on the L, (some quite hard but low and safe with nice landings) a hanging crack between 2 blocks on the R by the path a little further up and some nice bits and pieces on the hillside below that.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
The Doxey Pool. (sort of part of the skyline) This is a small but busy area, as it lies on the route of the Staffs way, but in terms of bouldering, the problems are excellent. Try inparticular Staffordshire Flyer and The Dead Pool. Bring a big mat or a paddling pool cos the watter is a bit grim most of the time! If youre on the Roches this is worth a visit. Dave Miller
Dangerous Dave - 19/Jun/02