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These details were last updated on 26/Sep/2010

Roaches Skyline

Staffordshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 258 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 470m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A pleasant escape from the crowds at the main edge, particularly the further left you go. Smaller (8 to 20m), but open, quick drying and less worn, the Skyline is well worth a few visits with excellent micro-routes on superb rock. Recommended routes include Slab and Arete (S), Safety Net (E1), Acid Drop (E4), San Melas (E3), Entropy's Jaw (E5), Wings of Unreason (E4), Track of the Cat (E5) and Art Nouveau (E6). Quality bouldering areas include Doxey's Pool and the miniaturesque Very, Very Far Skyline.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 VERY VERY FAR BOULDERS  
2P1 (Very Far Boulders)V0 5b 22
3Green Jam CrackV0- 4c 5
4Rounded Aretefont 3 75
5Open Groovefont 5 *68
6Two Pocket Slabfont 5 **92
7Lazy Troutfont 5 72
8P8 (Very Far Boulders)V1 5c 39
9Clamp AreteV2 6a 29
10Clamp Arete Sit StartV7 6b 21
11Crack (Art Nouveau)V0- 4b 6
12Crack (Very Far Boulders)V0- 4a 25
13P11 (Very Far Boulders)V1 5b 19
14P12 (Very Far Boulders)V2 6a 18
15Off-Fingers CrackV2 5c 23
16Pinkies to Perkiesfont 3 54
17P15 (Very Far Boulders)V0- 4a 39
18Very Far Boulders P16V1 5c 19
19Inner Tubef6A+ 37
20Short AreteV0- 5a 19
21Wall and Rib (Very Far Boulders)V0- 4c 52
22Left Crack (Very Far Boulders)V0- 4c 59
23Right Crack (Very Far Boulders)V0- 4b 53
24Easy RampV0- 4a 47
25Flight Examfont 4+ **113
26Flight Exam Right Hand FinishV1 5b 29
27Flight Exam Aretef6B 6a *18
 HARD VERY FAR BUTTRESS  
29Willow FarmE4 6a **16
30Enchanted ForestE2 5c **6
31Track of the CatE5 6a ***63
32Nature TrailE5 6b *20
33Wings of UnreasonE4 6a **275
34Counterstroke of EquityE6 6c *5
35Prelude to SpaceHVS 4c **169
36Very ConnoisseurishE2 6a 8
37The Parrot and the BalaclavaHS 4b 5
 VERY FAR BUTTRESS  
39CurvatureVS 4b 18
40Mr DecisiveHVS 5b 13
41Triple PointE1 5c *59
42Triple Point Directnone 6b 5
43Wild ThingHVS 5c **143
44Wild Thing Sit Startf6B **5
45Pereverse Traversef7B+ *** 
46Entropy's JawE5 6b ***44
47Script for a TierE6 6c *6
48Mild ThingD *53
 ART NOUVEAU  
50Art NouveauE6 6c ***11
51Coma SutraHS 4b 5
52Mono Slabfont 3 7
53Sidepull Wallf7A+ *14
54CrackV0- 4b 7
55Flaky Rompfont 4 3
56Juggy Flakelinefont 4 *2
57Crack and Aretef6A+ * 
58Transcendental MedicationD 3
 FAR SKYLINE BUTTRESS  
60MicrocosmD 9
61Flutterbye GroovesS 4a 9
62Tree CornerD 7
63Tree GroovesVD 12
64SteeplechaserD *12
65SlitherS 12
66MudhopperVD 7
67DazzlerS 4a *7
68Steeplechase CrackVD 6
69Honky TonkS 4a **17
70Entente CordialeE3 5c *10
71The ChimneyS 4b *9
72DanglerVS 4b 15
73Black Ram AreteVS 4c *13
74Black RamVD 16
75Don't Go Down to the Woods TodayVS 4b *12
 CHASM BOULDERS  
77Gritstone Pimplef6B 2
78Rampfont 4 3
79Mantelfont 4+ 9
80Harder Mantelf6A+ 4
81Acne Aretef7A *1
82Squeezer's Spotsf6C * 
83Spotter's Popf6B 1
84Puss in Bootsf6C 1
85Spotter's Slopf7A 3
86Problem 11 (Chasm Boulders)V0 5a 5
87Triptych Groovef7A+ *8
 DOXEY'S POOL  
89Soggy Bottom R Arete (Doxey's Pool)f6C 5
90Soggy Bottom Crackf6A 6
91The Staffordshire Flyerf6B ***158
92The Arete (Doxey's Pool)f6C 35
93The Drowning Poolf7A+ ***12
94The Drowning Pool - standing startV4 **17
95Another Nadin Traversef7C *1
96Groovy Crackfont 4 89
97Chipped Wall (Doxey's Pool)V0- 4b 93
98Thin Flake (Doxey's Pool)V1 5b 68
99Doxey's Pool Problem 12V1 5b 12
100Doxey's Pool Problem 13V0- 4b 15
101Arete on Left (Doxey's Pool)V4 6b 16
102Arete on Right (Doxey's Pool)V2 5b 31
103Blind Flake (Doxey's Pool)font 5+ *61
104Doxey's Pool Problem 19V5 6b **12
105P20 Doxey's PoolV3 6a 8
106Little Flakef6A+ *82
107Bulging Arete (Doxey's Pool)f6A 48
108Easy Arete (Doxey's Pool)font 3 68
109Pancakefont 4 114
110Li'l Crack (Doxey's Pool)font 3 56
111The Man with the Red Facef7A **2
112The Mermaidf6A **3
 ALPHA BUTTRESS  
114Bone IdolVS 4c 6
115OmegaS 4a 11
116MelaleucionVS 4c *42
117RodeoE1 6a *5
118DevotoedVS 5a 78
119AlphaVD *168
120Alpha AreteS 4a 189
121Breakfast CornerM 99
122Formative YearsE3 6a 31
123Breakfast ProblemVD *264
124Days Gone ByS 4a 176
125San MelasE3 5c ***218
126Hallow to our MenE4 6b *3
127MantisHVS 5b ***95
128Bounty KillerVS 5a 11
129SennapodVD 100
130Sennapod CrackVD 72
13139th StepE2 6a 23
132Wallaby WallS 4b *187
133Definitive GazeE1 5c 42
134Right-hand RouteS 4a *137
135Pretty GrittyE1 5c 7
 Climb nameGradex
136Looking for TodayHVS 5b 29
 SKYLINE BUTTRESS  
138Go GirlHVD 7
139Come GirlHS 4b 8
140Bilberry TraverseVS 4a 4
141SlipsE3 6a 7
142Pinnacle CrackD 45
143Split PersonalityE1 5b 36
144Pinnacle AreteVS 4c *91
145Pinnacle SlabHVD 22
146Sonny's RouteVS 4c *5
147Mantelshelf SlabVS 4b *121
148Enigma VariationE2 5b **96
149Karabiner ChimneyHVD *93
150Karabiner SlabVS 4c *99
151Karabiner CracksD 68
152Slab and AreteS 4a **312
153Drop AcidE4 6a 4
154Acid DropE4 5c **31
155SkytrainE2 5b *26
156Sally JamesVS 4c 9
157Mistaken IdentityS 4a 20
158Capstan's CornerD 15
159Cave ButtressVD 5
160Cave AreteS 4a *65
161StephenVS 5a *6
162AutomatixE2 5b 4
163Cave CrackHVS 5a *25
164King SwingVS 5a 6
165ConnectorVS 4b 12
166JoinerVD *32
167Sorcerer's ApprenticeVS 4c 3
168Tower EliminateHVS 5b *9
169Tower FaceE1 5b *16
170Tower ChimneyD *74
171Perched Block AreteVD *128
172Perched Block Arete, Direct FinishVS 4b *22
173Perched Block Arete (right hand finish)HVS 4c *6
174ThrugHVS 5a **138
 TRIO BUTTRESS  
176Bad PoyntD 151
177OversightHVD 159
178Wad Man SlangS 4a 8
179Cold Man's FingerE1 5b *21
180OgdenVD *255
181Ogden AreteS 4b *155
182Ogden RecessVD 56
183Black PigVS 4c *202
184Spare RibVS 4b *89
185Bad SneakersE2 5c 33
186SpectrumVS 4c *40
187Middleton's MotionVS 4b 25
188Rowan Tree TraverseVD *10
189Strain StationE4 5c *1
190TopazE2 5b *48
191Letter Box CracksVS 4c 10
192Letter Box GullyM 40
193Hank's HorrorE1 5b 7
194Paul's PufferE4 6b 4
195Pebbles on a Wessex BeachE3 5c 6
196Safety NetE1 5b ***363
197ShortcomingsE1 5c **130
198Left Twin CrackHS 4b 78
199Square ChimneyD 81
200Trio ChimneyVD 34
201SubstanceVS 4c 39
202LighthouseVD *229
203Ralph's MantelshelvesS 4a 84
204Ralph's DirectHVD 4a 9
 CONDOR BUTTRESS  
206Condor SlabVS 4c **258
207A.M. AnaestheticHVS 4c *44
208Cracked AreteHS 4b 178
209Condor ChimneyVD 100
210NosepickerE1 5a 50
211Licensed to fillHVS 4c 6
212Time to be HadHVD *195
213Toxic SocksHVS 5b 17
214Tobacco RoadVS 4c *122
215WheezeHVS 4c *45
216Bruno FlakeVS 4b *78
217Navy CutVD 106
218False ChicaneVD 41
219ChicaneS 4a 113
220Lung CancerS 3c 83
221SouthpawS 10
222Happy HookerHVS 5b 3
223The PugilistHVS 5c *7
224Cave ExitV7 6b 1
 THE CUBE  
226Cube Traversef6A+ *1
227Flakesfont 5 14
228Cube Crackfont 3+ 10
229Jumpf6C *16
230The Cubef6B **32
231The PubeV3 6a 10
232Right PubeV4 6a 3
233The Cube Directf7B+ *1
234K2 (The Cube)font 3 18
235Notch Slab (The Cube)font 4+ 22
236Traverse Of The Triangular Slab (Cube)V0+ 5b 5
237As Time Goes By *VD 3
238Purple Fingers *HS 4b 3
239Leek Hills *V4 4
240Max *V2 13
241The Loner *V2 6
242Ear 'ere *E2 6a *1
243Inspiration Point *HVS 5b 2
244Bernie Sit Start *V6 6b *11
2455+ *font 5 *3
246Harry Patch *VB 4
247The Shepherd *f6C+ 6b **3
248King Ding *V8 * 
249One Eyed Willy *f7A+ *1
250P13 (very far boulders *V0- 4a 2
251P14 (very far boulders) *V1 5c 3
252Abstract *HVS 5a 1
253Pop Art *VS 5a 3
254Deep in MysteryE1 5b 2
255Chicanery *HVD 1
256Proto-chicken *S 4b 1
257Chicken *S 1
258Egg *S 1
259Chronicle *VS 5b 2
260Oversite *HVD 5
261Bulging Arete (undercut start) *f6B+ 1
262In Passing *E2 5c *1
263Johnny Pooh Poohed *E2 6a 2
264Rassp! *E2 5c 1
265Shrug *E2 5b **2
266Curiosity Kitten *E3 6a 2
267Poodle Vindaloo *E2 5c 2
268Wicked Wind *E3 5c **1
269The calf path *E2 6b 1
270Counterstroke of equity direct *E7 6c ***1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Limited parking below the Roaches. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer donkster ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Its just that little further away from the road, just a bit soggier underfoot, and the wind is definatly stronger. But this adds up to a quiet group of buttresses, even on busy days despite a load of interesting little routes in the mid grades.
augustus trout ? - 11/Apr/10

There is also some lesser known but worthwhile bouldering on either side of the approach path to Hard Very Far Skyline from the N (before the trig point). Highlights include some rounded mantels on the far side of the first rocks on the L, (some quite hard but low and safe with nice landings) a hanging crack between 2 blocks on the R by the path a little further up and some nice bits and pieces on the hillside below that.
Harold - 24/Dec/02

The Doxey Pool. (sort of part of the skyline) This is a small but busy area, as it lies on the route of the Staffs way, but in terms of bouldering, the problems are excellent. Try inparticular Staffordshire Flyer and The Dead Pool. Bring a big mat or a paddling pool cos the watter is a bit grim most of the time! If youre on the Roches this is worth a visit. Dave Miller
Dangerous Dave - 19/Jun/02