Roaches Skyline Staffordshire, ENGLAND
Climbs 265 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 470m a.s.l – Faces SW
A pleasant escape from the crowds at the main edge, particularly the further left you go. Smaller (8 to 20m), but open, quick drying and less worn, the Skyline is well worth a few visits with excellent micro-routes on superb rock. Recommended routes include Slab and Arete (S), Safety Net (E1), Acid Drop (E4), San Melas (E3), Entropy's Jaw (E5), Wings of Unreason (E4), Track of the Cat (E5) and Art Nouveau (E6). Quality bouldering areas include Doxey's Pool and the miniaturesque Very, Very Far Skyline.
Limited parking below the Roaches. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer mrdigitaljedi
Who nicked "Tightrope"...it used to go across the San Melas slab and finsih up "Mantis"...??|
Chris.Allott - 11/Jul/13
Its just that little further away from the road, just a bit soggier underfoot, and the wind is definatly stronger. But this adds up to a quiet group of buttresses, even on busy days despite a load of interesting little routes in the mid grades.
augustus trout - 11/Apr/10
There is also some lesser known but worthwhile bouldering on either side of the approach path to Hard Very Far Skyline from the N (before the trig point).
Highlights include some rounded mantels on the far side of the first rocks on the L, (some quite hard but low and safe with nice landings) a hanging crack between 2 blocks on the R by the path a little further up and some nice bits and pieces on the hillside below that.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
The Doxey Pool. (sort of part of the skyline) This is a small but busy area, as it lies on the route of the Staffs way, but in terms of bouldering, the problems are excellent. Try inparticular Staffordshire Flyer and The Dead Pool. Bring a big mat or a paddling pool cos the watter is a bit grim most of the time! If youre on the Roches this is worth a visit. Dave Miller
Dangerous Dave - 19/Jun/02