Roaches Skyline

Climbs 265 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 470m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A pleasant escape from the crowds at the main edge, particularly the further left you go. Smaller (8 to 20m), but open, quick drying and less worn, the Skyline is well worth a few visits with excellent micro-routes on superb rock. Recommended routes include Slab and Arete (S), Safety Net (E1), Acid Drop (E4), San Melas (E3), Entropy's Jaw (E5), Wings of Unreason (E4), Track of the Cat (E5) and Art Nouveau (E6). Quality bouldering areas include Doxey's Pool and the miniaturesque Very, Very Far Skyline.

Access notes
Limited parking below the Roaches. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 VERY FAR SKYLINE BOULDERS 
2Small Chasm AreteV1 5b *
3Green Jam CrackV0- 4c
4Rounded AreteVB *
5Open GrooveV1 5b *
6Two Pocket SlabV2 5c **
7Lazy TroutV2 5c
8Eager TroutV2 5c
9Clamp AreteV3 6a
10Clamp Arete - Sit-startV7 6b
11CrackVB 4a
12Harry PatchV0 4c
13BernieV3 6a
14Bernie Sit StartV6 *
15Off Fingers CrackV2 5c
16Pinkies to Perkiesf3
17Slab CrackVB 4a
18Slab WalkV0- 4a
19Slab AreteV1 5c
20Inner Tubef6A+
21Short AreteV0- 5a
22Wall and RibV0- 4c
23Left CrackV0- 4b
24Right CrackV0- 4b
25Easy RampV0- 4a
26Flight Examf4+ **
27The LonerV3 5b
28The Shepherdf6C+ 6b **
29Leek Hillsf6B 6a *
 HARD VERY FAR BUTTRESS 
31Willow FarmE4 6a **
32Enchanted ForestE2 5c **
33Track of the CatE5 6a ***
34Nature TrailE5 6b *
35Wings of UnreasonE4 6a **
36Counterstroke of EquityE6 6c *
37Counterstroke of Equity DirectE7 6c ***
38Prelude to SpaceHVS 4c **
39One Eyed Willyf7A+ *
40Very ConnoisseurishE2 6a
41The Parrot and the BalaclavaHS 4b
42Crack (Art Nouveau)V0- 4b
 VERY FAR BUTTRESS 
44CurvatureVS 4b
45Mr DecisiveHVS 5b
46Triple PointE1 5c *
47Triple Point Directnone 6b
48Wild ThingHVS 5c **
49Wild Thing Sit Startf6B **
50Pereverse Traversef7B+ ***
51Entropy's JawE5 6b ***
52Script for a TierE6 6c *
53Mild ThingD *
 ART NOUVEAU 
55Side-pull Wallf7A+ *
56CrackV0- 4b
57Flaky Rompf4
58Juggy Flakelinef4 *
59Crack and Aretef6A+ *
60Mono Slabf3
61Art NouveauE6 6c ***
62Coma SutraHS 4b
63Transcendental MedicationD
 FAR SKYLINE BUTTRESS 
65MicrocosmD
66Flutterbye GroovesS 4a
67Tree CornerD
68Tree GroovesVD
69SteeplechaserD *
70SlitherS
71MudhopperVD
72DazzlerS 4a *
73Steeplechase CrackVD
74Honky TonkS 4a **
75Entente CordialeE3 5c *
76The ChimneyS 4b *
77DanglerVS 4b
78Black Ram AreteVS 4c *
79Black RamVD
80Don't Go Down to the Woods TodayVS 4b *
 CHASM BOULDERS 
82Rounded FeatureV0+ 5a
83Triptych Groovef7A+ *
84Gritstone Pimplef6B
85Rampf4
86Mantelf4+
87Harder Mantelf6A+
88Acne Aretef7A *
89Squeezer's Spotsf6C *
90Spotter's Popf6B
91Puss in Bootsf6C
92Spotter's Slopf7A
 DOXEY'S POOL 
94Soggy Bottom Crackf6A
95Staffordshire Facef6C
96The Staffordshire Flyerf6B ***
97The Aretef6C
98Another Nadin Traversef7C *
99The Drowning Poolf7A+ ***
100The Drowning Pool - standing startV4 **
101Groovy CrackV1 5b
102Chipped WallV0- 4b
103Thin FlakeV1 5b
104The Drowning TraverseV1 5b
105Slanting CrackVB
106Arete on LeftV4 6b
107Arete on RightV2 5b
108Blind Flakef5+ *
109Little Pocket Slab LeftV5 6b **
110ArchwayV3 6a
111Little Flakef6A+ *
112Little Flake Sit-startV5 6b
113Bulging Aretef6A
114Easy Aretef3
115Pancakef4
116Li'l CrackVB
117Li'l AreteVB
118The Man with the Red Facef7A **
119The Mermaidf6A **
 ALPHA BUTTRESS 
121Bone IdolVS 4c
122OmegaS 4a
123MelaleucionVS 4c *
124RodeoE1 6a *
125DevotoedVS 5a
126AlphaVD *
127Alpha AreteS 4a
128Breakfast CornerM
129Formative YearsE3 6a
130Breakfast ProblemVD *
131Days Gone ByS 4a
132San MelasE3 5c ***
133Hallow to our MenE4 6b *
134MantisHVS 5b ***
135Bounty KillerVS 5a
136SennapodVD
137Sennapod CrackVD
13839th StepE2 6a
139Wallaby WallS 4b *
140Definitive GazeE1 5c
141Right-hand RouteS 4a *
142Pretty GrittyE1 5c
143Looking for TodayHVS 5b
 SKYLINE BUTTRESS 
145Go GirlHVD
146Come GirlHS 4b
147Bilberry TraverseVS 4a
148SlipsE3 6a
149Pinnacle CrackD
150Split PersonalityE1 5b
151Pinnacle AreteVS 4c *
152Pinnacle SlabHVD
153Sonny's RouteVS 4c *
154Mantelshelf SlabVS 4b *
155Enigma VariationE2 5b **
156Karabiner ChimneyHVD *
157Karabiner SlabVS 4c *
158Karabiner CracksD
159Slab and AreteS 4a **
160Drop AcidE4 6a
161Acid DropE4 5c **
162SkytrainE2 5b *
163As Time Goes ByVD
164Purple FingersHS 4b
165Sally JamesVS 4c
166Mistaken IdentityS 4a
167Capstan's CornerD
168Cave ButtressVD
169Cave AreteS 4a *
170StephenVS 5a *
171AutomatixE2 5b
172Cave CrackHVS 5a *
173King SwingVS 5a
174ConnectorVS 4b
175JoinerVD *
176Sorcerer's ApprenticeVS 4c
177Tower EliminateHVS 5b *
178Tower FaceE1 5b *
179Tower ChimneyD *
180Perched Block AreteVD *
181Perched Block Arete, Direct FinishVS 4b *
182Perched Block Arete (right hand finish)HVS 4c *
183ThrugHVS 5a **
 TRIO BUTTRESS 
185Bad PoyntD
186OversightHVD
187Wad Man SlangS 4a
188Cold Man's FingerE1 5b *
189OgdenVD *
190Ogden AreteS 4b *
191Ogden RecessVD
192Black PigVS 4c *
193Spare RibVS 4b *
194Bad SneakersE2 5c
195SpectrumVS 4c *
196Middleton's MotionVS 4b
197Rowan Tree TraverseVD *
198Strain StationE4 5c *
199TopazE2 5b *
200Letter Box CracksVS 4c
201Letter Box GullyM
202Hank's HorrorE1 5b
203Paul's PufferE4 6b
204Pebbles on a Wessex BeachE3 5c
205Safety NetE1 5b ***
206Ear 'ereE2 6a *
207ShortcomingsE1 5c **
208Left Twin CrackHS 4b
209Square ChimneyD
210Trio ChimneyVD
211SubstanceVS 4c
212LighthouseVD *
213Ralph's MantelshelvesS 4a
214Ralph's DirectHVD 4a
 CONDOR BUTTRESS 
216Condor SlabVS 4c **
217A.M. AnaestheticHVS 4c *
218Cracked AreteHS 4b
219Condor ChimneyVD
220NosepickerE1 5a
221Licensed to fillHVS 4c
222Time to be HadHVD *
223Toxic SocksHVS 5b
224Tobacco RoadVS 4c *
225WheezeHVS 4c *
226Bruno FlakeVS 4b *
227Navy CutVD
228False ChicaneVD
229ChicaneS 4a
230Lung CancerS 3c
231SouthpawS
232Happy HookerHVS 5b
233The PugilistHVS 5c *
234Cave ExitV7 6b
 THE CUBE 
236Flakesf5
237Cube Crackf3+
238Jumpf6C *
239The Cube Directf7B+ *
240The Cubef6B **
241The PubeV3 6a
242Right PubeV4 6a
243Cube Traversef6A+ *
244K2VB
245K3V0- 5a
246Summit SlabV1 5b
247Notch Slabf4+
2482KVB
249Traverse Of The Triangular SlabV0+ 5b
 UNKNOWN OR NEW ADDITIONS 
251Inspiration PointHVS 5b
2525+f5 *
253King DingV8 *
254P13 (very far bouldersV0- 4a
255P14 (very far boulders)V1 5c
256AbstractHVS 5a
257Pop ArtVS 5a
258Deep in MysteryE1 5b
259ChicaneryHVD
260Proto-chickenS 4b
261ChickenS
262EggS
263ChronicleVS 5b
264OversiteVD
265Bulging Arete (undercut start)f6B+
266In PassingE2 5c *
267Johnny Pooh PoohedE2 6a
268Rassp!E2 5c
269ShrugE2 5b **
270Curiosity KittenE3 6a
271Poodle VindalooE2 5c
272Wicked WindE3 5c **
273The calf pathE2 6b
274Jamming Crackf4
275Sennopod CrackVD
276Recess Wall and AreteHVS 4c
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Who nicked "Tightrope"...it used to go across the San Melas slab and finsih up "Mantis"...??
Chris.Allott - 11/Jul/13
Its just that little further away from the road, just a bit soggier underfoot, and the wind is definatly stronger. But this adds up to a quiet group of buttresses, even on busy days despite a load of interesting little routes in the mid grades.
augustus trout - 11/Apr/10
There is also some lesser known but worthwhile bouldering on either side of the approach path to Hard Very Far Skyline from the N (before the trig point). Highlights include some rounded mantels on the far side of the first rocks on the L, (some quite hard but low and safe with nice landings) a hanging crack between 2 blocks on the R by the path a little further up and some nice bits and pieces on the hillside below that.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
The Doxey Pool. (sort of part of the skyline) This is a small but busy area, as it lies on the route of the Staffs way, but in terms of bouldering, the problems are excellent. Try inparticular Staffordshire Flyer and The Dead Pool. Bring a big mat or a paddling pool cos the watter is a bit grim most of the time! If youre on the Roches this is worth a visit. Dave Miller
Dangerous Dave - 19/Jun/02
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These details were last updated on 29/Oct/2014
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