Roaches Skyline

Climbs 265 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 470m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A pleasant escape from the crowds at the main edge, particularly the further left you go. Smaller (8 to 20m), but open, quick drying and less worn, the Skyline is well worth a few visits with excellent micro-routes on superb rock. Recommended routes include Slab and Arete (S), Safety Net (E1), Acid Drop (E4), San Melas (E3), Entropy's Jaw (E5), Wings of Unreason (E4), Track of the Cat (E5) and Art Nouveau (E6). Quality bouldering areas include Doxey's Pool and the miniaturesque Very, Very Far Skyline.

Access notes
Limited parking below the Roaches. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 VERY FAR SKYLINE BOULDERS  
2Small Chasm AreteV1 5b *31
3Green Jam CrackV0- 4c 6
4Rounded AreteVB *95
5Open GrooveV1 5b *88
6Two Pocket SlabV2 5c **128
7Lazy TroutV2 5c 89
8Eager TroutV2 5c 57
9Clamp AreteV3 6a 56
10Clamp Arete - Sit-startV7 6b 28
11CrackVB 4a 38
12Harry PatchV0 4c 29
13BernieV3 6a 24
14Bernie Sit StartV6 *15
15Off Fingers CrackV2 5c 33
16Pinkies to Perkiesf3 66
17Slab CrackVB 4a 5
18Slab WalkV0- 4a 53
19Slab AreteV1 5c 27
20Inner Tubef6A+ 46
21Short AreteV0- 5a 24
22Wall and RibV0- 4c 72
23Left CrackV0- 4b 85
24Right CrackV0- 4b 74
25Easy RampV0- 4a 67
26Flight Examf4+ **145
27The LonerV3 5b 46
28The Shepherdf6C+ 6b **6
29Leek Hillsf6B 6a *32
 HARD VERY FAR BUTTRESS  
31Willow FarmE4 6a **20
32Enchanted ForestE2 5c **10
33Track of the CatE5 6a ***71
34Nature TrailE5 6b *23
35Wings of UnreasonE4 6a **330
36Counterstroke of EquityE6 6c *5
37Counterstroke of Equity DirectE7 6c ***1
38Prelude to SpaceHVS 4c **199
39One Eyed Willyf7A+ *1
40Very ConnoisseurishE2 6a 8
41The Parrot and the BalaclavaHS 4b 7
42Crack (Art Nouveau)V0- 4b 7
 VERY FAR BUTTRESS  
44CurvatureVS 4b 21
45Mr DecisiveHVS 5b 14
46Triple PointE1 5c *69
47Triple Point Directnone 6b 5
48Wild ThingHVS 5c **171
49Wild Thing Sit Startf6B **5
50Pereverse Traversef7B+ *** 
51Entropy's JawE5 6b ***52
52Script for a TierE6 6c *8
53Mild ThingD *57
 ART NOUVEAU  
55Side-pull Wallf7A+ *21
56CrackV0- 4b 10
57Flaky Rompf4 3
58Juggy Flakelinef4 *3
59Crack and Aretef6A+ *1
60Mono Slabf3 8
61Art NouveauE6 6c ***12
62Coma SutraHS 4b 7
63Transcendental MedicationD 5
 FAR SKYLINE BUTTRESS  
65MicrocosmD 9
66Flutterbye GroovesS 4a 9
67Tree CornerD 7
68Tree GroovesVD 12
69SteeplechaserD *13
70SlitherS 13
71MudhopperVD 7
72DazzlerS 4a *9
73Steeplechase CrackVD 6
74Honky TonkS 4a **20
75Entente CordialeE3 5c *10
76The ChimneyS 4b *9
77DanglerVS 4b 15
78Black Ram AreteVS 4c *14
79Black RamVD 16
80Don't Go Down to the Woods TodayVS 4b *12
 CHASM BOULDERS  
82Rounded FeatureV0+ 5a 7
83Triptych Groovef7A+ *8
84Gritstone Pimplef6B 4
85Rampf4 3
86Mantelf4+ 9
87Harder Mantelf6A+ 6
88Acne Aretef7A *1
89Squeezer's Spotsf6C * 
90Spotter's Popf6B 1
91Puss in Bootsf6C 1
92Spotter's Slopf7A 3
 DOXEY'S POOL  
94Soggy Bottom Crackf6A 6
95Staffordshire Facef6C 5
96The Staffordshire Flyerf6B ***185
97The Aretef6C 43
98Another Nadin Traversef7C *2
99The Drowning Poolf7A+ ***13
100The Drowning Pool - standing startV4 **26
101Groovy CrackV1 5b 110
102Chipped WallV0- 4b 113
103Thin FlakeV1 5b 81
104The Drowning TraverseV1 5b 14
105Slanting CrackVB 19
106Arete on LeftV4 6b 20
107Arete on RightV2 5b 44
108Blind Flakef5+ *75
109Little Pocket Slab LeftV5 6b **13
110ArchwayV3 6a 11
111Little Flakef6A+ *95
112Little Flake Sit-startV5 6b 1
113Bulging Aretef6A 60
114Easy Aretef3 86
115Pancakef4 141
116Li'l CrackVB 72
117Li'l AreteVB 8
118The Man with the Red Facef7A **2
119The Mermaidf6A **4
 ALPHA BUTTRESS  
121Bone IdolVS 4c 6
122OmegaS 4a 12
123MelaleucionVS 4c *50
124RodeoE1 6a *6
125DevotoedVS 5a 90
126AlphaVD *206
127Alpha AreteS 4a 231
128Breakfast CornerM 118
129Formative YearsE3 6a 32
130Breakfast ProblemVD *320
131Days Gone ByS 4a 218
132San MelasE3 5c ***259
133Hallow to our MenE4 6b *4
134MantisHVS 5b ***109
135Bounty KillerVS 5a 11
136SennapodVD 114
137Sennapod CrackVD 88
13839th StepE2 6a 26
139Wallaby WallS 4b *226
140Definitive GazeE1 5c 50
141Right-hand RouteS 4a *178
142Pretty GrittyE1 5c 7
143Looking for TodayHVS 5b 37
 SKYLINE BUTTRESS  
145Go GirlHVD 7
146Come GirlHS 4b 8
147Bilberry TraverseVS 4a 4
148SlipsE3 6a 7
149Pinnacle CrackD 52
150Split PersonalityE1 5b 38
151Pinnacle AreteVS 4c *100
152Pinnacle SlabHVD 24
153Sonny's RouteVS 4c *5
154Mantelshelf SlabVS 4b *145
155Enigma VariationE2 5b **114
156Karabiner ChimneyHVD *115
157Karabiner SlabVS 4c *116
158Karabiner CracksD 75
159Slab and AreteS 4a **387
160Drop AcidE4 6a 4
161Acid DropE4 5c **33
162SkytrainE2 5b *28
163As Time Goes ByVD 3
164Purple FingersHS 4b 3
165Sally JamesVS 4c 10
166Mistaken IdentityS 4a 21
167Capstan's CornerD 20
168Cave ButtressVD 7
169Cave AreteS 4a *83
170StephenVS 5a *6
171AutomatixE2 5b 4
172Cave CrackHVS 5a *28
173King SwingVS 5a 6
174ConnectorVS 4b 16
175JoinerVD *41
176Sorcerer's ApprenticeVS 4c 4
177Tower EliminateHVS 5b *9
178Tower FaceE1 5b *29
179Tower ChimneyD *89
180Perched Block AreteVD *152
181Perched Block Arete, Direct FinishVS 4b *27
182Perched Block Arete (right hand finish)HVS 4c *7
183ThrugHVS 5a **171
 TRIO BUTTRESS  
185Bad PoyntD 171
186OversightHVD 188
187Wad Man SlangS 4a 18
188Cold Man's FingerE1 5b *24
189OgdenVD *322
190Ogden AreteS 4b *186
191Ogden RecessVD 63
192Black PigVS 4c *244
193Spare RibVS 4b *112
194Bad SneakersE2 5c 42
195SpectrumVS 4c *42
196Middleton's MotionVS 4b 27
197Rowan Tree TraverseVD *13
198Strain StationE4 5c *1
199TopazE2 5b *66
200Letter Box CracksVS 4c 13
201Letter Box GullyM 50
202Hank's HorrorE1 5b 7
203Paul's PufferE4 6b 6
204Pebbles on a Wessex BeachE3 5c 6
205Safety NetE1 5b ***445
206Ear 'ereE2 6a *1
207ShortcomingsE1 5c **171
208Left Twin CrackHS 4b 83
209Square ChimneyD 100
210Trio ChimneyVD 44
211SubstanceVS 4c 45
212LighthouseVD *277
213Ralph's MantelshelvesS 4a 103
214Ralph's DirectHVD 4a 11
 CONDOR BUTTRESS  
216Condor SlabVS 4c **323
217A.M. AnaestheticHVS 4c *55
218Cracked AreteHS 4b 227
219Condor ChimneyVD 116
220NosepickerE1 5a 65
221Licensed to fillHVS 4c 8
222Time to be HadHVD *235
223Toxic SocksHVS 5b 19
224Tobacco RoadVS 4c *141
225WheezeHVS 4c *51
226Bruno FlakeVS 4b *90
227Navy CutVD 125
228False ChicaneVD 55
229ChicaneS 4a 128
230Lung CancerS 3c 94
231SouthpawS 11
232Happy HookerHVS 5b 3
233The PugilistHVS 5c *10
234Cave ExitV7 6b 1
 THE CUBE  
236Flakesf5 17
237Cube Crackf3+ 12
238Jumpf6C *18
239The Cube Directf7B+ *1
240The Cubef6B **37
241The PubeV3 6a 12
242Right PubeV4 6a 5
243Cube Traversef6A+ *1
244K2VB 26
245K3V0- 5a 4
246Summit SlabV1 5b 4
247Notch Slabf4+ 28
2482KVB 4
249Traverse Of The Triangular SlabV0+ 5b 8
 UNKNOWN OR NEW ADDITIONS  
251Inspiration PointHVS 5b 2
2525+f5 *3
253King DingV8 * 
254P13 (very far bouldersV0- 4a 2
255P14 (very far boulders)V1 5c 3
256AbstractHVS 5a 2
257Pop ArtVS 5a 6
258Deep in MysteryE1 5b 2
259ChicaneryHVD 3
260Proto-chickenS 4b 1
261ChickenS 1
262EggS 1
263ChronicleVS 5b 3
264OversiteVD 17
265Bulging Arete (undercut start)f6B+ 4
266In PassingE2 5c *5
267Johnny Pooh PoohedE2 6a 2
268Rassp!E2 5c 3
269ShrugE2 5b **5
270Curiosity KittenE3 6a 2
271Poodle VindalooE2 5c 2
272Wicked WindE3 5c **1
273The calf pathE2 6b 1
274Jamming Crackf4 2
275Sennopod CrackVD 1
276Recess Wall and AreteHVS 4c 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Who nicked "Tightrope"...it used to go across the San Melas slab and finsih up "Mantis"...??
Chris.Allott - 11/Jul/13
Its just that little further away from the road, just a bit soggier underfoot, and the wind is definatly stronger. But this adds up to a quiet group of buttresses, even on busy days despite a load of interesting little routes in the mid grades.
augustus trout - 11/Apr/10
There is also some lesser known but worthwhile bouldering on either side of the approach path to Hard Very Far Skyline from the N (before the trig point). Highlights include some rounded mantels on the far side of the first rocks on the L, (some quite hard but low and safe with nice landings) a hanging crack between 2 blocks on the R by the path a little further up and some nice bits and pieces on the hillside below that.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
The Doxey Pool. (sort of part of the skyline) This is a small but busy area, as it lies on the route of the Staffs way, but in terms of bouldering, the problems are excellent. Try inparticular Staffordshire Flyer and The Dead Pool. Bring a big mat or a paddling pool cos the watter is a bit grim most of the time! If youre on the Roches this is worth a visit. Dave Miller
Dangerous Dave - 19/Jun/02
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These details were last updated on 09/Apr/2014

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