A fine little boulder enjoying something of an international reputation on account of its somewhat erroneous inclusion in a guidebook to European climbing.
The Geltstone is situated on the side of the River Gelt about seven miles south-east of Brampton in Cumbria . The boulder is about six metres high and is composed of a fine-grained Quartzite. The climbing is steep, sometimes slightly overhanging and the holds are small, so strong fingers are essential to make the best of it. Even if you can't get up the routes its worth a visit, as just downstream is an excellent swimming pool for all the family in the clean water of the Gelt.
Another reason for trying is the perfection of the landing pad. Give it a whirl, but remember, midges can be a problem on still evenings and of course the visiting hordes of Euroclimbers looking for this 'super-boulder' could lead to some overcrowding.
From Brampton on the A69 Carlisle to Newcastle road, follow signs for Castle Carrock. The B6413 leads after about six miles to Castle Carrock and signs lead past the two pubs and uphill to Geltsdale. Park cars on the obvious right-hand bend at Jockey Shield Cottages. A track leads downhill and crosses the river at Hynam Bridge. Turn right and walk under small crags beside the river until the derelict cottage of High Hynam is reached and the main path goes uphill. Continue on a small path by the river and after a couple of minutes a fine little swimming pool with a waterfall is passed. Continue upstream for a couple of hundred metres and the boulder will be found abutting against the path. No access problems exist and the place is popular with walkers and picnickers even though the land is privately owned. Please respect this privilege and observe the usual courtesies. Dogs must be left at home or access problems will occur.
Out of print: North of England Rock Climbs (1992)
|1||The river face||V0-||2|
|2||The upstream face||V1||15|
|3||The main face-The arete||V3||17|
|4||The main face-Wall to the right of the arete||V0+||21|
|5||The main face-The crack||V2 5a-5c||22|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|The derelict house mentioned has now been replaced by a new build, though the directions should not really change.|
RobinHinson - 27/Mar/11
|robie as moderator can you change the location of this crag? maybe 40-50 km east by south east and back into england?haha|
dcclimb - 01/Jul/10