Climbs 94 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 330m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A great crag which you will be guaranteed to have to yourself. The rock is very similar to the Wainstones and many of the lines are equally as good or even better. Seepage can be a problem, so best to visit after a dry spell.

Stakes have now been installed above Heather Wall area & the Main Rocks area with a view to install more soon, they're about 20m from the edge though due to rocky ground. To shunt the hard slab routes at the crag you will need a 40 metre rope, plus a secondary 20 metre rope for the ones on the left. (Only one stake for the whole central bay)

Low grade classics are Lacuna, Tranmire Crack & Jupiter among others. There are some mid-grade climbs dotted about the rocks which don't see much activity but are generally clean. The hardest routes at the crag are on exposed rock and keep in even better nick.

Excellent bouldering to be had at the far left end and streamside area,as well as copious amounts below the crag. A mat can also be used for much of the main crag.

Access notes
see NE England guide book
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.


Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
242f7A+ *
3Pythagorianismf6A+ *
5Easy SlabM
7Holy HolyVD
8Wildon's WayS
9The noseVS 4c
10Frank's SlabVD
11Alan's SlabHD
12Fern grooveE2 5b
13Old wedge routeE1 5b
14Greasy cornerHS 4b
15Heather wallE2 6a
16Left oversVD
18Dawn crackHS 4b
19Evening timeHVS 5b
20Trend lightlyVS 5a
21Days EndS 4a
23Cassininone 5c
25Gravity grooveS
26Slab & MantleS
27The rippernone 5a
28Shallow cornernone 4c
29Obscure ArêteV2 5c *
30Open GrooveV2 5c *
31Child In Timenone 5c
32Slab mantleshelfVD
33Slab grooveVD
34Slab FaceD
35Slab edgeD
38SpikeyHS 4b
39Long PlayerD
40VeeHS 4b
41The ThugHVS 5b
43FlyingVS 4c
46Centre lineVS 5a *
47Gee BeeVD
49Filler InS 4b
50Fils follyMS
51Third degreeS
52Winkers wallVS 4c
53CrozzleS 4a *
54Ramblers pushoverD
56Grumpy left-handVD
58Spread eagleVD
59Golden EagleHS
60Tough EnoughHVS 5a
61Flake TraverseVS 5a
62The Flake DirectHVS 5b
63Stuck In The SkyE7 6c **
64Swift-TuttleE5 6b **
65Electric MoonE5 6a *
66LacunaS *
67Spawn Of The HuntE2 5c *
68PerseidsE3 6a **
69Tranmire crackVD *
70Tranmire grooveM
71UranusHVS 5b *
72JupiterVS 4c **
73Jupiter-variation finishVS 4c **
74MarsHVS 5a *
75Tranmire WallE8 6c *
76NeptuneS *
77PlutoHS 4b *
78MosqueVS 4c
79InsipidityHVS 6a
80The Age of ObsessionE4 6b *
81Plagued by DelusionsE4 6c
82HistrionicsE4 6a
83Snakes & LaddersVD
84WedgesE1 5b
85The sequenceE3 6a
86FocusE2 5c
88Oak Tree CrackS
89Never So FarVS 4b
91Black WallS
93Bunny's ButtressD
98Intake AreteS
99Intake WallVD
100The Last HeroesHVS 5b *
101Neolithic FlakeS *
102Slape SlabD
103Bee lineVS 4c
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Old routes cleaned & im guessing that theres more to be had at this cracking crag, plenty of stuff for all climbers but there is bracken in some areas which can be annoying!
phleppy - 17/Jun/10
At the moment there is lots of Bracken on the left hand end of the crag (not sure about the rest, as didn't get the chance to check it out). And the top outs on some of the routes were interesting, to say the least!
Matt Bill Platypus - 28/Jul/08
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 28/Aug/2013

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