Climbs 159 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 330m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A great crag which you will be guaranteed to have to yourself. The rock is very similar to the Wainstones and many of the lines are equally as good or even better. Seepage can be a problem, so best to visit after a dry spell.

Stakes have now been installed above Heather Wall area & the Main Rocks area with a view to install more soon, they're about 20m from the edge though due to rocky ground. To shunt the hard slab routes at the crag you will need a 40 metre rope, plus a secondary 20 metre rope for the ones on the left. (Only one stake for the whole central bay)

Low grade classics are Lacuna, Tranmire Crack & Jupiter among others. There are some mid-grade climbs dotted about the rocks which don't see much activity but are generally clean. The hardest routes at the crag are on exposed rock and keep in even better nick.

Excellent bouldering to be had at the far left end and streamside area,as well as copious amounts below the crag. A mat can also be used for much of the main crag.

Access notes
see NE England guide book
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering (2014),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
242f7A+ *3
3Pythagorianismf6A+ *2
5Easy SlabM 4
6InterloperVD 3
7Holy HolyVD 2
8Wildon's WayS 1
9The noseVS 4c 1
10Frank's SlabVD 4
11Alan's SlabHD 3
12Fern grooveE2 5b  
13Old wedge routeE1 5b 1
14Greasy cornerHS 4b 1
15Heather wallE2 6a  
16Left oversVD 1
17ScruffS 2
18Dawn crackHS 4b 1
19Evening timeHVS 5b 1
20Trend lightlyVS 5a 1
21Days EndS 4a 2
23Cassininone 5c 1
24BananaS 2
25Gravity grooveS 1
26Slab & MantleS 1
27The rippernone 5a 1
28Shallow cornernone 4c 1
29Obscure ArÍteV2 5c *3
30Open GrooveV2 5c *2
31Child In Timenone 5c 2
32Slab mantleshelfVD 3
33Slab grooveVD 3
34Slab FaceD 2
35Slab edgeD 3
38SpikeyHS 4b  
39Long PlayerD 2
40VeeHS 4b 1
41The ThugHVS 5b  
43FlyingVS 4c 1
44TrapezeHVD 1
45RD'sD 2
46Centre lineVS 5a *3
47Gee BeeVD 3
49Filler InS 4b 1
50Fils follyMS 2
51Third degreeS 2
52Winkers wallVS 4c 1
53CrozzleS 4a *3
54Ramblers pushoverD 4
56Grumpy left-handVD 2
57GrumpyD 1
58Spread eagleVD 5
59Golden EagleHS 1
60Tough EnoughHVS 5a  
61Flake TraverseVS 5a 1
62The Flake DirectHVS 5b 2
63Stuck In The SkyE7 6c **1
64Swift-TuttleE5 6b **2
65Electric MoonE5 6a *1
66LacunaS *7
67Spawn Of The HuntE2 5c *2
68PerseidsE3 6a **2
69Tranmire crackVD *8
70Tranmire grooveM 8
71UranusHVS 5b *2
72JupiterVS 4c **8
73Jupiter-variation finishVS 4c **3
74MarsHVS 5a *3
75Tranmire WallE8 6c * 
76NeptuneS *2
77PlutoHS 4b * 
78MosqueVS 4c  
79InsipidityHVS 6a 1
80The Age of ObsessionE4 6b *2
81Plagued by DelusionsE4 6c 1
82HistrionicsE4 6a 2
83Snakes & LaddersVD 1
84WedgesE1 5b  
85The sequenceE3 6a  
86FocusE2 5c  
88Oak Tree CrackS  
89Never So FarVS 4b  
91Black WallS  
92SqueezyD 1
93Bunny's ButtressD 1
95MumboD 1
96JumboD 1
98Intake AreteS 1
99Intake WallVD 1
100The Last HeroesHVS 5b *1
101Neolithic FlakeS *1
102Slape SlabD 1
103Bee lineVS 4c 1
104Game Theory *f4+ 1
10584.21 *f7B+  
106Core *f6A  
107Repdigit *f5  
108Thermodynamics *f6B+  
109The Differential *f7B  
110Combinatorics *f6A  
111Stressed Robin *f6B  
112Variational Principle *f7B  
113Point of Inertia *f7C * 
114Left Prow *f5 1
115The Pinch *f6B  
116Butch and Sundance *f6C  
117Tom Selleck *f4 2
118Hot Yoghurt *f6C * 
119Canal Street *f5+  
120Carb Goggles *f6A  
121Peaches and Herb *f3 1
122Shake Your Groove Thing *f5+  
123The Other Place *f2 1
124Harry and Lloyd *f7A * 
125True Bromance *f6B 1
126Grey Queen *f7A+ 1
127The Brownie King *f7B  
128Hugs *f5  
129Domestic Bliss *f5+  
130Hanging Slab - Problem 1 *f5+  
131Hanging Slab - Problem 2 *f5 1
132Hanging Slab - Problem 3 *f3 1
133Cocktail *f5+  
134Jack Twist *f6B  
135Crafty Butcher *f7A *1
136Brad Majors *f6A+ 1
137Chocolate Log *f5 *1
138The Scorpian and the Frog *f5  
139Han and Chewie *f6A  
140Cowboy *f5+  
141Best Bitter *f6A+ *1
142Lager Than Life *f6A 1
143Bitter Taste *f6B * 
144Badger Breath *f6B+ * 
145Tower of the Winds *f6A  
146The Flow *f6B  
147In Time *f6B+  
148Half Life *f6A  
149Liquid Clocks *f7A * 
150Iron Pendulum *f6B  
151Jigawatts *f7A  
1521981 *f4+  
153Hanging Crack *f6A+ * 
154Cyclops *f6C * 
155Rocket Launcher *f5+  
156Family Ties *f7B  
157Doc Brown *f6C+  
158Bird Watching *f6B *1
159Delorean DMC-12 *f5+ * 
160Nobody Calls Me 'Chicken' *f6B  
161Banana Skin *f3  
162Flux *f7C  
163Buford 'Mad Dog' Tannen *f2  
164Biff Tannen Jr *f3  
165Tannen the Barbarian *f3  
166Marty McFly *f5 * 
167Back in Time *f6B * 
168Plutonium *f6B * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Old routes cleaned & im guessing that theres more to be had at this cracking crag, plenty of stuff for all climbers but there is bracken in some areas which can be annoying!
phleppy - 17/Jun/10
At the moment there is lots of Bracken on the left hand end of the crag (not sure about the rest, as didn't get the chance to check it out). And the top outs on some of the routes were interesting, to say the least!
Matt Bill Platypus - 28/Jul/08