Clogwyn y Bustach

Climbs 39 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Rarely used but has some good routes up to 220ft, all multi-pitch routes but for one (a 30ft 6a boulder problem). Perhaps best fun for Lockwood's Chimney (Diff) - often done in the dark when drunk.

Access notes
Best reached from the Cwm Dyli power station - don't park inside the gates. Take the footbridge over the river, to a path which heads up the hillside over a col, when the cliff appears abruptly.

Guidebooks
North Wales Rock (2006), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 TOP BUTTRESS  
2Peak FreanHVS 5a  
3Prince of DarknessE3 5b  
4EnlightenmentE2 5b  
5Kellogg CrackE1 5a * 
 THE SHIELD  
7FemaelstromE2 5b *1
8ParanoiaE1 5a  
9The MaelstromHVS 4c 2
10Side EntryS 1
11Marble RibD 3
12New SlantS 2
13New Slant (Direct Finish)VS 4b 1
14Forest WallS 4
15The Precipice WalkHS 4b 4
16Out On a LimbE5 6b  
17StampedeE5 6b * 
18Forte StrapiomboHVS 5a 1
19WizardE3 5c ** 
20Lockwood's ChimneyD **363
21The Tenth RibVD 1
 NORTH BUTTRESS  
23Gallop StepHVS 4c **64
24The ProwlerE5 6a **2
25Anniversary WaltzE2 5c 3
26The Ox Bow IncidentE4 5c 1
 BUSTACH BOULDERS  
28The Tawg: In Homage to a HoundE4 6a ** 
29Homage TraverseV6 *1
30NancyV4 *3
31Artful DodgerV4 **1
32Pick PocketV5 **1
33Bill PsychesV6 **2
34MossquitoV3 2
35Sick HappyV9 ***2
36Sick Happy (standing start)V6 *19
37FaginV6 **42
38Bustach ProwV8 **6
39Revenge of the MossquitoV0+ 2
40The Green Green Moss of HomeV1 1
41Keen as MosstardV1 1
42Dashboards and the glad ragsV4 *1
43Bara Brith *V10 **2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Alex Mason

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