Climbs 41
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces SW

fagin V5 © bendavies

Crag features

Rarely used but has some good routes up to 220ft, all multi-pitch routes but for one (a 30ft 6a boulder problem). Perhaps best fun for Lockwood's Chimney (Diff) - often done in the dark when drunk.

Approach notes

Best reached from the Cwm Dyli power station - don't park inside the gates. Take the footbridge over the river, to a path which heads up the hillside over a col, when the cliff appears abruptly.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Top Buttress 
2Peak FreanHVS 5a  
3Prince of DarknessE3 5b  
4EnlightenmentE2 5b  
5Kellogg CrackE1 5a * 
 The Shield 
7FemaelstromE2 5b *1
E1 5a  
9The Maelstrom
HVS 4c 3
10Side Entry
S 1
11Marble Rib
D 3
12New Slant
S 2
13New Slant (Direct Finish)
VS 4b 1
14Forest Wall
S 6
15The Precipice Walk
HS 4b 4
16Out On a Limb
E5 6b  
E5 6b * 
18Forte Strapiombo
HVS 5a 1
19WizardE3 5c **1
20Lockwood's ChimneyVD ***493
21The Tenth Rib
VD 1
 North Buttress 
23Gallop StepHVS 5a **84
24The ProwlerE5 6a **2
25Anniversary Waltz
E2 5c 5
26The Ox Bow Incident
E4 5c 1
 Bustach Boulders 
28The Tawg: In Homage to a HoundE4 6a ** 
29Homage Traversef7A *3
30Nancyf6B *3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Alex Mason