Craig y Castell (Tremadog)

Climbs 61 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Some great classics in the lower grades on perfect rock; tends also to be quiet. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft such as the wonderful Creagh Dhu Wall (HS 4b), One Step in the Crowds (E1 5b), The Wasp (E2 5c), Tensor (E2 6a) and Pellegra (E3 6a). (Might be a bit less than 250m above sea level! chrishedgehog)

Access notes
Park in Tremadog town square; or at the intersection of the A4085 and A498, in the short lane leading to a school. Do not block the lane with cars. The crag is a short walk from the lane.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), Tremadog (2010), North Wales Classics (2010), North Wales Rock (2006), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Jude the ObscureVS 4b 3
2Far From the Madding CrowdE1 5b 3
3JessHVS 5a 1
4Y Dewin DwlE1 5c  
5MursenE1 5b  
6Rala RwdinsE2 5c 1
7RwdlanHVS 5a 4
8SouvenirHVS 5a 1
9California DreamingE1 5c 3
10Shadow PlayHS 4b 1
11SourveldE1 5b  
12Pleasure CruiseHVS 5a 3
13GestianaE1 5b 6
14Jill the ThrillHVS 5a 5
15Holly Tree VariationE1 5b 3
16BrassHVS 5a 5
17Cheap TrickE2 5c 2
18CarbonaraE2 5c 1
19HelixHVS 5a  
20CawodHVS 5a 3
21WhirlwindHS 4b 1
22Blas y CynfydHVS 8
23RibidiresHS 4b  
24Trick or TreatE2 6a 1
25Lonely EdgeE2 5c 4
26CorniogVS 4c  
27PertE3 5c 4
28PryderiE1 5b 12
29September BlueE1 5b  
30Knight on the TilesE3 5c 1
31PwyllE2 5c 8
32MimsyVD  
33IolynS 7
34PulsarHVS 5a 2
35TiercelHS 7
36SalixHVS 5a *35
37Jackdaw on the Edge of TimeE1 5b 8
38One Step in the CrowdsE1 5b 161
39Iron in the SoulE3 6b  
40Creagh Dhu WallHS 4b ***863
41Creagh Dhu Wall DirectVS 4c ***124
42RomboldVS 5a 3
43Bigger BugE4 6a  
44SisypusE2 5c 5
45The WaspE2 5c **121
46PellegraE3 6a **18
47TensorE2 6a ***89
48Cruel ToneE3 6c 1
49TantalusHVS 5a *135
50Titanium ManE4 6a *9
51TarantulaHVS 5b 22
52Tarantula/TantalusE1 5b *3
53NiobeVS 4c 22
54WhittingtonS  
55MensorVS 4c **133
56Sorry SallyE1 5b 4
57Castell High GirdleE2 5c *2
58Castell Lower Girdle TraverseVS 4c 1
59Pellagra *E3 6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Glyn

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The above comments apply only to the old guide. The new one is reliable
harold walmsley - 24/Jun/11
The approach descriptions in the guidebook have been rendered out of date by the construction of a new hospital. The approach now seems to follow a track along the boundary of the hospital nearest to the school, then up the woods and scree to the R. The guidebook descriptions of the approaches to Cheap Trick etc are hopeless as none of the mentioned features are visible.
harold walmsley - 27/Jul/09