Climbs 64
Rocktype Gabbro
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces SW

The fantastic hand traverse on Creagh Dhu Wall... simply stunning climbing! © Adam Booth

Crag features

Some great classics in the lower grades on perfect rock; tends also to be quiet. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft such as the wonderful Creagh Dhu Wall (HS 4b), One Step in the Crowds (E1 5b), The Wasp (E2 5c), Tensor (E2 6a) and Pellegra (E3 6a). (Might be a bit less than 250m above sea level! chrishedgehog)

Approach notes

Park in Tremadog town square; or at the intersection of the A4085 and A498, in the short lane leading to a school. Do not block the lane with cars. The crag is a short walk from the lane.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Tremadog (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)
The above comments apply only to the old guide. The new one is reliable
harold walmsley - 24/Jun/11
The approach descriptions in the guidebook have been rendered out of date by the construction of a new hospital. The approach now seems to follow a track along the boundary of the hospital nearest to the school, then up the woods and scree to the R. The guidebook descriptions of the approaches to Cheap Trick etc are hopeless as none of the mentioned features are visible.
harold walmsley - 27/Jul/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Jude the Obscure
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VS 4b 3
2Far From the Madding Crowd
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E1 5b 3
3Jess
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HVS 5a 1
4Y Dewin Dwl
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E1 5c  
5Mursen
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E1 5b  
6Rala Rwdins
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E2 5c 1
7Rwdlan
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HVS 5a 4
8Souvenir
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HVS 5a 1
9California Dreaming
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E1 5c 3
10Shadow Play
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HS 4b 1
11Sourveld
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E1 5b  
12Pleasure Cruise
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HVS 5a 4
13Gestiana
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E1 5b 12
14Jill the Thrill
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HVS 5a 7
15Holly Tree Variation
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E1 5b 3
16Brass
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HVS 5a 8
17Cheap Trick
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E2 5c 3
18Carbonara
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E2 5c 1
19Helix
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HVS 5a  
20Cawod
-
HVS 5a 5
21Whirlwind
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HS 4b 1
22Blas y CynfydHVS 5a **15
23Rich PacketE1 5b  
24Ribidires
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HS 4b  
25Trick or Treat
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E2 6a 1
26Lonely Edge
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E2 5c 5
27Corniog
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VS 4c 1
28Pert
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E3 5c 4
29Pryderi
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E1 5b 22
30September Blue
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E1 5b  
31Knight on the Tiles
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E3 5c 1
32Pwyll
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E2 5c 12
33Mimsy
-
VD  
34Iolyn
-
S 10
35Pulsar
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HVS 5a 2
36Tiercel
-
HS 9
37Salix
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HVS 5a *43
38Jackdaw on the Edge of Time
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E1 5b 9
39One Step in the CrowdsE1 5b **249
40Iron in the Soul
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E3 6b  
41Creagh Dhu WallHS 4b ***1230
42Creagh Dhu Wall DirectVS 4c ***197
43Rombold
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VS 5a 3
44Bigger Bug
-
E4 6a  
45SisypusE2 5c 8
46The WaspE2 5c ***174
47Pellagra
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E3 6a **25
48TensorE2 6a **135
49Cruel Tone
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E3 6c 1
50Tantalus
-
HVS 5a *185
51Titanium Man
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E4 6a *11
52Tarantula
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HVS 5b 31
53Tarantula/TantalusE1 5b **24
54Niobe
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VS 4c 25
55Whittington
-
S  
56MensorVS 4c **230
57Sorry SallyE1 5b 5
58Castell High Girdle
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E2 5c *3
59Castell Lower Girdle Traverse
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VS 4c 1
60Tales of Suspense
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E4 6a * 
61Multi-Dimensional Array
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E3 6a  
62Spinor
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E4 * 
63Tenser
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E5 6c  
64Tithonus
-
E7 6c  

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