Climbs 57 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 75m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Mostly easy stuff. 2 roof routes at the right hand end, usually top-roped due to biscuity rock and no gear. The gear is generally very good. All single pitch routes, Marcher Lord, VS 5a being the crag classic.

Nice range of easy bouldering on good rock in 3 areas; on small walls before the crag; free-standing boulders; and on the main crag. Definitely worth a trip for the low grade boulderer. 'Knocking on Heavens Door', Font 6b, is a great problem, a light-bulb-esque arete with a teetering finish.

Approach notes
1.5 km north of Etal, farm track to Berryhill. Park in the farm lane. Ask permission at the farm. Go through the farmyard, through two gates at the left-hand end of the buildings. The crag is in the field behind the buildings. Go along the fence to the far end and cross via the wooden bit.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Northern England (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989), Northumberland (1979)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1No O Levels RequiredE3 5c  
2Overhanging CrackVS 4c *30
3Much Ado About NothingE1 5b 10
4Legal SeparationE4 6a  
5Western ArÍteVS 4c **135
6Western ArÍte DirectVS 5b 6
7CheatVD *41
8Kinmont WillieVD *90
9Jock O the SydeVD *53
10Reivers WayD *73
11Steep Fluted WallHVS 4c 8
12A Pocket Full of LichenightHVS 5a 1
13Slab CrackD *105
14The FlutingsVD **193
15Hi Diddle DiddleVS 4b *127
16Marcher LordVS 5a ***190
17This PedestrianE3 5c *1
18FootsloggersVS 4c *29
19Potters WayVS 5a *18
20Potters Way VariationE3 5c  
21Slanting CrackHVD 4a *97
22Eastern ArÍteS 4a **201
23Do or DieE4 6a  
24Faye or FlyE5 6a  
25Death or GloryE4 5c 2
26Border BalladHVS 5b *47
27ThrutchS 4a 28
28Boulder DirectHVS 5a 10
29Boulder RHVS 5a 31
30Lunger's LeapE1 5b 7
31Route OneM 13
32Route TwoHVS 5b 20
33Route ThreeVS 5a 48
34Route FourM 13
35SwarmV0 4c 11
36Toothless FairyV0+ 5a 9
37Nameless AreteV2 5c 7
38Grim ReaperV0+ 4c 9
39The Berryhill NibblerV0- 4c 7
40Bareback RiderV0 4c 6
41Dumbof5 7
42Warmer Upperf3 17
43Crackerf3 12
44Wall and Fluted SlabS 4a 14
46Flight of Fancyf5+ 3
48Escape from Hellf6A 7
49The Undertakerf5 4
50Knocking on Heaven's Doorf6A 7
51Satanic Cursesf6C 1
53The Furrowf6A+ 1
54The Furrow Variationf7A+ 4
55The Courting of Jilly Cooperf6A 2
57Thingf4+ 8
58Lurchf6A 5
59Itf5+ 5
60Festerf6A+ 2
61Mortishaf7A+ 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Surprised by how many people were there yesterday but as a first time visitor I really enjoyed this place. Some great looking butresses with good routes, some great soloing and even potential for some new lines to be developed!
Gabe Oliver - 06/Oct/14
The residents of the cottages will get very arsy if you park outside their home. One chap won't think twice about moving his shed (Audi A3) to block you in. No doubt he intends on giving you a load of hassle before moving it out the way.
y2keable - 06/Oct/14
Berry Hill is accessed through a working farm. There are only issues here if people are not thoughtful. There are no parking spaces as such you are parking on their lane so be aware that they might need access to machinery and silage etc. that they store here. Please ask at the farm and all will be fine. There are often rooks nesting in the crag but in an area you would not normally climb. They have all sorts of stock in the field, last time I was there there were some highland bullocks so I would be cautious re dogs but that is the case in many Northumberland crags. Ollie Active4seasons
Ollie Jay - 03/Apr/13
Planning on calling by in 2 weeks- anyone know if the access issues (parking and livestock) are sorted?
brynbobaggins - 07/May/12
I told the BMC so they know, they have just lambed and the wee things are all over the place cows are in the crag field at the moment.
jonnie3430 - 27/Feb/12
The rockfax Northern England recommended carpark has "no parking," signs even though there are two carparking spaces, it's still possible to park in front of the wee houses. Something falcon-like is nesting on Marcher Lord, I don't think eggs are present yet but are coming. It had cleared off before we arrived, but we heard it all day and saw it return to the crag after we had finished.
jonnie3430 - 27/Feb/12
April 12, 2007 Asked at the farm, the landlord is running a couple of bulls on the crag field- they haven't bothered people, but may bother a dog if you have one with you (we did, so we pottered off elsewhere for the day, where the dog was far better at getting up the damn rock than me, predicatbly). 4 years ago, not a problem, as the landlord ran sheep on the field at the time. Apparently there is a notice at the field about dogs, but we didn't go and see. Best regards Sarah
Sarah G - 16/Apr/07
worth a visit for marcher lord VS 5a best route for miles !
bongo - 03/Aug/06