Bowden Doors

Climbs 284 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 170m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A half-mile or so of superb 7-15m climbs, of all grades, but tending to the technical. The crag is a local summit, rarely wet and quick drying; ideal for year-round exercise. At the northern end, the rock is overhung in the shape of a breaking wave - really rather eerie. Good views of the coast from the top. Bowden is part of the same outcrop as Back Bowden Doors (about a mile away), and Kyloe Crags (10km north; 15km by road). [Simon Smith]

Access notes
From the A1, the crag lies to the west. Find Belford (25Km south of Berwick, 15km north of Alnwick) and take the B6349 signed to Wooler, from the centre of the village. After passing a right turn (or fork) after 4km, continue for 200 yards or so until you surmount a small hill and reach a short plateau; park on the grass verge. The crags - not particularly obvious from the road - are through a farm gate on the right, set back 100 yards across a cow-field.

>From the A697, the crag lies to the east. Find Wooler, and take the B6348 signed to Belford. After about 3.5km, the road takes a 90 degree right turn, and after another 300 yards or so, you should take a left turn onto the B6349 signed Belford. Continue for about 6km until you climb a small hill and find the plateau; park on the verge. The crag is to your left. [Simon Smith]

Do not block the gates to the fields as they are in constant use by the farmer.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northern England (2008), Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE BOULDERS  
2Ravine Slopersf6B 7
3Ravine Flakef6A 12
4Problem 35f6B 3
5Born Lippyf8A *6
6Pulp Frictionf7C+ *1
7The Fan Leftf6A 4
8The Fan Centralf6A 5
9The Fan Rightf6A 4
10Outer Limits Direct FinishE2 5c 2
11Outer LimitsE2 5c **3
12Childs Playf6B **210
13Playtimef6A 23
14Offwidthf4 9
15Parisienne Walkwaysf6C 5
16Entrebaillementf6A 79
17Bottomf6A 11
18Problem 24f6A 6
19Problem 23f5+ 23
20Problem 22 (Bottom Area)f4 29
21Problem 21f5 17
22Sandy Scoopf6A 6
23Alfie Thorntonf7C+ 2
24The Crack SSf8A+ 1
25The Crackf7C+ **18
26The Whackf6B 1
27The Lightbulbf6A 214
28Sheep Pen Traversef4 58
29Cornerf4 109
30Blind Seamf5 120
31Dreaming of Heucof4 130
32Paw Printsf3 137
33Hanging Ribf4 123
34Sheep Pen Scoopf3 120
35A Little less than Whence we startedf3 2
36Semantronf7B+ ** 
37The Mantleshelff7A 76
38Sandy Ribf5+ 121
39Scooped Wallf6B ***224
40Sandy Aretef4+ 51
41Scooped Wall LHf4+ 48
42Scooped Wall RHf5 37
43Apple Crumblef6A *2
44LH Flakef4 84
45RH Flakef5 61
46Black Wallf5+ 14
47Pathside Boulder Traversef6A 9
 WARM UP WALL  
49Warmed up and Worn Out Circuitf6C 2
50Warm Up Traversef6A 23
51Endf5+ 52
52Wallf5 63
53The Crescent Flakef6A 45
54Groovef4 66
55Short Slabf5 57
56Evening WallS 4b 76
 THE SCOOPS  
58Another Heap of itHVS 5c 6
59Finale WallE1 5c 7
60Scoop ThreeE1 5b 36
61LibertyE3 6a 1
62Scoop TwoE1 5b *32
63Toffs Variation StartE3 6b 2
64Toffsf6C 6b 11
65Toffs (full route)E3 6b 1
66Toff's Jumpf7A 18
67Bourgeoisief8A+ ** 
68Working Classf7C+ *5
69Working Class SSf8B **3
70Second Classf7C 1
71Poverty (full route)E5 6c *3
72Povertyf7B+ *24
73Poverty Right-Handf7B **18
74His Eminencef7A+ ***61
75His Eminence (start only)f6B *104
76Stu's Variationf7A 17
77Scoop OneE1 5b *37
78The JudgeE4 6a **8
79The TrialE3 6a ***81
80The JuryE3 5c *9
81Bloody CrackVS 5a *17
82Aretef5 24
83Bloody NoseHS 5a *181
84The ShinerVS 5b 62
 THE WAVE  
86The SkateE1 5c 11
87Flying Fishf6A 6a *52
88Flying Stagf7B 2
89The StingE3 6a **13
90Honeycomb Wallf7C+ *1
91Honeycomb wall SSf8A+ *** 
92Manukaf8A ** 
93Manta LHf7B 48
94Manta Directf6C 9
95Manta RHf6B 77
96The MantaE3 6a ***45
97Viennaf7B+ 38
98Vienna SSf8A 2
99Undertowf7C 1
100Rising DampE4 6b **2
101Inner SpaceE5 6b **1
102High TideE5 6a **1
103The WaveE5 6a ***3
104Captain Haddock LHf7A *6
105Captain Haddockf6C 6b *42
106Rough PassageE6 6b ***1
107Poseidon AdventureE4 6a ***40
108NarcosisE6 6c 1
109Growlersf8A 1
110The BendsE4 6b *4
111Rip the LipE6 6a 1
112Green CrackHVS 5b *12
 BARBARIAN  
114Atillaf7C  
115Staggeredf7B+ **26
116Staggered SSf8A **1
117Jimbo's off to Ozf7B+ 1
118BarbarianE5 6b ***4
 THE CAVE  
120Underdog Traversef8A+ 1
121Sprungf7C *44
122Cave LH Problemf6B **102
123Left of Centref7A+ **1
124Cave Central LHf7A **28
125Cave Central Directf7A **2
126Cave Central RHf6C+ **21
127V Crimpsf7C ***16
128Cave RH Problemf6B+ **83
129Cave Traversef5+ 24
130See you in DisneylandE3 6a 1
131Giants EarVS 5a 35
132Shoulders of Giantsf7C 1
133Shoulders of Giants Dynof7A 8
134Bulls LugE2 6a 4
135Robbers RibVS 5b 8
 CRUNCHE WALL  
137RH Aretef4+ 40
138Middle Problemf4 72
139LH Problemf4+ 61
140Little Boulder Traversef6A 23
141Arrow CrackVD 65
142Billy LiarE2 5c 4
143Crunchie Traversef5 87
144Crunchie High Traversef6C 1
145Crunchie (full route)E2 5c **66
146Crunchief6A+ **48
147Temptation (full route)E3 6b *5
148Temptationf7A 6c *18
149Blind WallS 4a *81
150Hanging CrackE1 5b *38
151Cruel DudeE4 5c 1
152BoomerE4 5c *2
153No SurrenderE4 6a 1
154Brothers in ArmsE5 6b 1
155RetreatE1 5b 6
 BANANA WALL + TIGER WALL  
157Wall EndVD 83
158Wall End DirectHS 4c *80
159Yellow PerilE2 5c 20
160The RunnelVS 5a **240
161Banana WallVS 4c **405
162Banana Wall Traversef4+ *1
163AbananaE1 5c *98
164Abanana Wallf5+ *26
165Banana GrooveHVS 5a 65
166Black CrackVD 227
167Red CrackHS 4c 59
168LeoE2 5b *14
169Tiger's WallHVS 5a ***500
170Tigers Wall Circuitf5+ 15
171The CheetahE2 5c 6
172The RajahE5 6b ***8
173The Radgyf7C ** 
174Antihydralf8A 1
175ImageryE4 6b 1
176Slab CrackE1 5b *23
 LORRAINE  
178Don't Let Go Aretef7C 1
179Don't Let Go Direct StartE2 6c 2
180Don't Let GoE2 5c *30
181Dont Let Go Variationf5+ 4
182Lorraine Wall Traversef6A 15
183LorraineVS 5a ***544
184Lorraine (start only)f5 ***36
185Little Red RoosterE1 5c *114
186RuntVS 5a 39
187Pride Before a FallVS 5a 18
188Crescent WallS 4b *167
189PitchforkE2 5c 5
190Pitcher WallHVS 5a *72
191Picher Wall DirectE1 5c 14
192The KeepE1 5b 6
193The Belford Pie ShopE3 6a 4
194Castle CrackHVD ***913
195BellaE2 5c 6
196Sue DirectHVS 5b 59
197SueS 4c *286
198Flake WallD 134
199Flake ChimneyD 64
 CASTLE WALL + SCORPION  
201Castle WallS 4b 276
202Wall CrackVS 4c 60
203Triple CracksHS 4c *255
204Short CrackVD 56
205Creepy Crawlyf6A 6a 8
206The Harvest Bugf6A 6a 19
207Listen to the RainE4 5c 5
208Woolman's WallVS 5a *119
209The LobsterE2 5c 18
210Crab WallHS 4b *287
211ScorpionVS 4c **667
212NutcrackerHVS 5b 70
213Brutally HandsomeE2 5c 15
214Nose ChimneyD 54
215Broken CrackE2 5c 10
 LEANING GROOVES  
217Blocked Chimney CornerHS 4c 128
218Second Leaning GrooveVS 5a *305
219First Leaning GrooveHVS 5a **182
220Street RunnerE4 5c *5
221The Big Splash Direct FinishE3 5c 4
222The Big SplashE2 5c *21
223Hanging Flakef6A 12
224Flake Eliminatef7A **19
225Long JohnS 4c 82
226Transformer LHf7B+ **45
227Transformer Direct Startf7A **92
228Transformer (full route)E2 5c *20
229Transformerf6A 6a *119
230Transformer RHf6C 30
231Jackdaw CrackHVS 5b *30
232Long CrackHVS 5a **127
233First CenturyE4 6a *5
234Klondyke WallE2 5c **191
235Klondyke Wall Circuitf5+ 2
236Canada CrackHVS 5a ***520
237Quatra TwinkleyE3 6a 2
238Dog Eat Dogf6C 6b **140
239One Movef7A+ *10
240Canada DryVS 5a 58
241Family PressureE1 5c 49
242Heaven Can WaitE6 6b 2
 OVERHANGING CRACK  
244Go To Hellf7A+ **3
245Nature's Angryf7B+ *** 
246Death KnellE6 6b *3
247Hangover WallE5 6b 1
248The Overhanging CrackE2 5c ***187
249Scoop Traversef7A **33
250Russet GrooveVD ***1304
251Red NoseVS 4c 56
252Exhibition CrackHS 4c *464
253Brown Ale WallE1 5b 28
254Guards ExitVD 379
255Guards Exit Directf6A 14
256Pinkie PeelerVS 5a 20
257Girdle Traverse of the Main WallVS 4c 19
258The CornerHVS 5a 70
 MAIN WALL  
260Maginot LineE3 6a 1
261Crater MakerE4 6a 5
262Flake CrackS 4b *402
263A Grave MaskE4 6a 1
264Goose StepE3 6a **7
265Kaiser BillE4 6b *4
266Grovel Grove Variation FinishHVS 5a 26
267Grovel GrooveS 4a **633
268Please Stop Me Before I Kill MyselfE3 6b 1
269The GauleiterE3 6a **12
270The ScoopVS 4c **843
271Red Wall Traversef5+ 5
272Black and Tan DirectE2 6a 30
273Black and Tan Alternative FinishHVS 5a 59
274Black and TanS 4c **834
275Black and Tan DirectE2 6a 6
276Jock Strap (Y-Front LH Finish)f6B+ 27
277Y-Front SSf6B 14
278Y-Frontf6A 6a *245
279Y-Front Directf7A ***100
280Y-Front Aretef7B+ 7
281X-Firef6C+ 6
282Second StaircaseD *384
283Deception CrackVD *388
284Stretcher WallE1 5c **151
285The ViperE1 6a *66
286Hissing SidE1 5c 17
287Main Wall EliminateHVS 5b *148
288Main WallHVS 5b ***464
289Handrail Eliminatef5+ 13
290Handrail EliminateHVS 5c 33
291HandrailVS 4c 344
292Eliminate SSf6A 9
293Eliminatef5 17
294Introductory StaircaseM *240
295Banister CrackVD 102
296Main Wall Traversef5 12
297Main Wall Low Level Traversef7A 3
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The end of the wall above Castle Wall and Wall Crack has been moved back 5m, the remainder of the wall has been trundled down the face so watch for loose rocks at the bottom and dust on holds.
jonnie3430 - 12/Apr/15