Bowden Doors

Climbs 283 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 170m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A half-mile or so of superb 7-15m climbs, of all grades, but tending to the technical. The crag is a local summit, rarely wet and quick drying; ideal for year-round exercise. At the northern end, the rock is overhung in the shape of a breaking wave - really rather eerie. Good views of the coast from the top. Bowden is part of the same outcrop as Back Bowden Doors (about a mile away), and Kyloe Crags (10km north; 15km by road). [Simon Smith]

Access notes
From the A1, the crag lies to the west. Find Belford (25Km south of Berwick, 15km north of Alnwick) and take the B6349 signed to Wooler, from the centre of the village. After passing a right turn (or fork) after 4km, continue for 200 yards or so until you surmount a small hill and reach a short plateau; park on the grass verge. The crags - not particularly obvious from the road - are through a farm gate on the right, set back 100 yards across a cow-field.

>From the A697, the crag lies to the east. Find Wooler, and take the B6348 signed to Belford. After about 3.5km, the road takes a 90 degree right turn, and after another 300 yards or so, you should take a left turn onto the B6349 signed Belford. Continue for about 6km until you climb a small hill and find the plateau; park on the verge. The crag is to your left. [Simon Smith]

Do not block the gates to the fields as they are in constant use by the farmer.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008), Northern England (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE BOULDERS  
2Ravine Slopersf6B 7
3Ravine Flakef6A 12
4Problem 35f6B 3
5Born Lippyf8A *6
6Pulp Frictionf7C+ *1
7The Fan Leftf6A 4
8The Fan Centralf6A 5
9The Fan Rightf6A 4
10Outer Limits Direct FinishE2 5c 2
11Outer LimitsE2 5c **3
12Childs Playf6B **208
13Playtimef6A 22
14Offwidthf4 9
15Parisienne Walkwaysf6C 5
16Entrebaillementf6A 78
17Bottomf6A 11
18Problem 24f6A 6
19Problem 23f5+ 23
20Problem 22 (Bottom Area)f4 29
21Problem 21f5 17
22Sandy Scoopf6A 6
23Alfie Thorntonf7C+ 2
24The Crack SSf8A+ 1
25The Crackf7C+ **18
26The Whackf6B 1
27The Lightbulbf6A 213
28Sheep Pen Traversef4 54
29Cornerf4 103
30Blind Seamf5 114
31Dreaming of Heucof4 126
32Paw Printsf3 131
33Hanging Ribf4 118
34Sheep Pen Scoopf3 117
35A Little less than Whence we startedf3 1
36Semantronf7B+ ** 
37The Mantleshelff7A 75
38Sandy Ribf5+ 116
39Scooped Wallf6B ***218
40Sandy Aretef4+ 47
41Scooped Wall LHf4+ 44
42Scooped Wall RHf5 35
43Apple Crumblef6A *2
44LH Flakef4 80
45RH Flakef5 57
46Black Wallf5+ 14
47Pathside Boulder Traversef6A 9
 WARM UP WALL  
49Warmed up and Worn Out Circuitf6C 2
50Warm Up Traversef6A 23
51Endf5+ 46
52Wallf5 58
53The Crescent Flakef6A 43
54Groovef4 64
55Short Slabf5 55
56Evening WallS 4b 76
 THE SCOOPS  
58Another Heap of itHVS 5c 6
59Finale WallE1 5c 7
60Scoop ThreeE1 5b 36
61LibertyE3 6a 1
62Scoop TwoE1 5b *32
63Toffs Variation StartE3 6b 2
64Toffsf6C 6b 11
65Toffs (full route)E3 6b 1
66Toff's Jumpf7A 18
67Bourgeoisief8A+ ** 
68Working Classf7C+ *5
69Working Class SSf8B **3
70Second Classf7C 1
71Poverty (full route)E5 6c *3
72Povertyf7B+ *24
73Poverty Right-Handf7B **18
74His Eminencef7A+ ***60
75His Eminence (start only)f6B *102
76Stu's Variationf7A 17
77Scoop OneE1 5b *36
78The JudgeE4 6a **8
79The TrialE3 6a ***81
80The JuryE3 5c *9
81Bloody CrackVS 5a *17
82Aretef5 24
83Bloody NoseHS 5a *177
84The ShinerVS 5b 61
 THE WAVE  
86The SkateE1 5c 11
87Flying Fishf6A 6a *52
88Flying Stagf7B 2
89The StingE3 6a **13
90Honeycomb Wallf7C+ *1
91Honeycomb wall SSf8A+ *** 
92Manukaf8A ** 
93Manta LHf7B 48
94Manta Directf6C 9
95Manta RHf6B 76
96The MantaE3 6a ***45
97Viennaf7B+ 38
98Vienna SSf8A 2
99Undertowf7C 1
100Rising DampE4 6b **2
101Inner SpaceE5 6b **1
102High TideE5 6a **1
103The WaveE5 6a ***3
104Captain Haddock LHf7A *6
105Captain Haddockf6C 6b *42
106Rough PassageE6 6b ***1
107Poseidon AdventureE4 6a ***40
108NarcosisE6 6c 1
109Growlersf8A 1
110The BendsE4 6b *4
111Rip the LipE6 6a 1
112Green CrackHVS 5b *12
 BARBARIAN  
114Atillaf7C  
115Staggeredf7B+ **26
116Staggered SSf8A **1
117Jimbo's off to Ozf7B+ 1
118BarbarianE5 6b ***4
 THE CAVE  
120Underdog Traversef8A+ 1
121Sprungf7C *43
122Cave LH Problemf6B **99
123Left of Centref7A+ **1
124Cave Central LHf7A **28
125Cave Central Directf7A **2
126Cave Central RHf6C+ **20
127V Crimpsf7C ***16
128Cave RH Problemf6B+ **82
129Cave Traversef5+ 24
130See you in DisneylandE3 6a 1
131Giants EarVS 5a 35
132Shoulders of Giantsf7C 1
133Shoulders of Giants Dynof7A 8
134Bulls LugE2 6a 4
135Robbers RibVS 5b 8
 CRUNCHE WALL  
137RH Aretef4+ 40
138Middle Problemf4 71
139LH Problemf4+ 60
140Little Boulder Traversef6A 23
141Arrow CrackVD 63
142Billy LiarE2 5c 4
143Crunchie Traversef5 86
144Crunchie High Traversef6C 1
145Crunchie (full route)E2 5c **66
146Crunchief6A+ **48
147Temptation (full route)E3 6b *5
148Temptationf7A 6c *18
149Blind WallS 4a *81
150Hanging CrackE1 5b *37
151Cruel DudeE4 5c 1
152BoomerE4 5c *2
153No SurrenderE4 6a 1
154Brothers in ArmsE5 6b 1
155RetreatE1 5b 6
 BANANA WALL + TIGER WALL  
157Wall EndVD 80
158Wall End DirectHS 4c *80
159Yellow PerilE2 5c 20
160The RunnelVS 5a **237
161Banana WallVS 4c **402
162AbananaE1 5c *98
163Abanana Wallf5+ *25
164Banana GrooveHVS 5a 65
165Black CrackVD 221
166Red CrackHS 4c 59
167LeoE2 5b *14
168Tiger's WallHVS 5a ***495
169Tigers Wall Circuitf5+ 14
170The CheetahE2 5c 6
171The RajahE5 6b ***8
172The Radgyf7C ** 
173Antihydralf8A 1
174ImageryE4 6b 1
175Slab CrackE1 5b *23
 LORRAINE  
177Don't Let Go Aretef7C 1
178Don't Let Go Direct StartE2 6c 2
179Don't Let GoE2 5c *29
180Dont Let Go Variationf5+ 4
181Lorraine Wall Traversef6A 14
182LorraineVS 5a ***539
183Lorraine (start only)f5 ***36
184Little Red RoosterE1 5c *114
185RuntVS 5a 39
186Pride Before a FallVS 5a 18
187Crescent WallS 4b *165
188PitchforkE2 5c 5
189Pitcher WallHVS 5a *71
190Picher Wall DirectE1 5c 14
191The KeepE1 5b 6
192The Belford Pie ShopE3 6a 4
193Castle CrackHVD ***905
194BellaE2 5c 6
195Sue DirectHVS 5b 59
196SueS 4c *279
197Flake WallD 133
198Flake ChimneyD 63
 CASTLE WALL + SCORPION  
200Castle WallS 4b 274
201Wall CrackVS 4c 57
202Triple CracksHS 4c *247
203Short CrackVD 54
204Creepy Crawlyf6A 6a 8
205The Harvest Bugf6A 6a 19
206Listen to the RainE4 5c 5
207Woolman's WallVS 5a *117
208The LobsterE2 5c 18
209Crab WallHS 4b *285
210ScorpionVS 4c **657
211NutcrackerHVS 5b 70
212Brutally HandsomeE2 5c 15
213Nose ChimneyD 53
214Broken CrackE2 5c 10
 LEANING GROOVES  
216Blocked Chimney CornerHS 4c 126
217Second Leaning GrooveVS 5a *303
218First Leaning GrooveHVS 5a **179
219Street RunnerE4 5c *5
220The Big Splash Direct FinishE3 5c 4
221The Big SplashE2 5c *21
222Hanging Flakef6A 12
223Flake Eliminatef7A **19
224Long JohnS 4c 81
225Transformer LHf7B+ **45
226Transformer Direct Startf7A **92
227Transformer (full route)E2 5c *20
228Transformerf6A 6a *119
229Transformer RHf6C 30
230Jackdaw CrackHVS 5b *26
231Long CrackHVS 5a **126
232First CenturyE4 6a *5
233Klondyke WallE2 5c **187
234Klondyke Wall Circuitf5+ 2
235Canada CrackHVS 5a ***515
236Quatra TwinkleyE3 6a 2
237Dog Eat Dogf6C 6b **139
238One Movef7A+ *10
239Canada DryVS 5a 56
240Family PressureE1 5c 48
241Heaven Can WaitE6 6b 2
 OVERHANGING CRACK  
243Go To Hellf7A+ **3
244Nature's Angryf7B+ *** 
245Death KnellE6 6b *3
246Hangover WallE5 6b 1
247The Overhanging CrackE2 5c ***179
248Scoop Traversef7A **33
249Russet GrooveVD ***1280
250Red NoseVS 4c 56
251Exhibition CrackHS 4c *455
252Brown Ale WallE1 5b 28
253Guards ExitVD 369
254Guards Exit Directf6A 14
255Pinkie PeelerVS 5a 20
256Girdle Traverse of the Main WallVS 4c 19
257The CornerHVS 5a 69
 MAIN WALL  
259Maginot LineE3 6a 1
260Crater MakerE4 6a 5
261Flake CrackS 4b *399
262A Grave MaskE4 6a 1
263Goose StepE3 6a **7
264Kaiser BillE4 6b *4
265Grovel Grove Variation FinishHVS 5a 25
266Grovel GrooveS 4a **621
267Please Stop Me Before I Kill MyselfE3 6b 1
268The GauleiterE3 6a **12
269The ScoopVS 4c **829
270Red Wall Traversef5+ 5
271Black and Tan DirectE2 6a 30
272Black and Tan Alternative FinishHVS 5a 57
273Black and TanS 4c **820
274Black and Tan DirectE2 6a 6
275Jock Strap (Y-Front LH Finish)f6B+ 27
276Y-Front SSf6B 14
277Y-Frontf6A 6a *242
278Y-Front Directf7A ***100
279Y-Front Aretef7B+ 7
280X-Firef6C+ 6
281Second StaircaseD *375
282Deception CrackVD *379
283Stretcher WallE1 5c **149
284The ViperE1 6a *66
285Hissing SidE1 5c 17
286Main Wall EliminateHVS 5b *145
287Main WallHVS 5b ***455
288Handrail Eliminatef5+ 13
289Handrail EliminateHVS 5c 33
290HandrailVS 4c 342
291Eliminate SSf6A 9
292Eliminatef5 17
293Introductory StaircaseM *240
294Banister CrackVD 101
295Main Wall Traversef5 12
296Main Wall Low Level Traversef7A 3
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer punkpunk

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The end of the wall above Castle Wall and Wall Crack has been moved back 5m, the remainder of the wall has been trundled down the face so watch for loose rocks at the bottom and dust on holds.
jonnie3430 - 12/Apr/15