Bowden Doors

Climbs 281 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 170m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A half-mile or so of superb 7-15m climbs, of all grades, but tending to the technical. The crag is a local summit, rarely wet and quick drying; ideal for year-round exercise. At the northern end, the rock is overhung in the shape of a breaking wave - really rather eerie. Good views of the coast from the top. Bowden is part of the same outcrop as Back Bowden Doors (about a mile away), and Kyloe Crags (10km north; 15km by road). [Simon Smith]

Access notes
From the A1, the crag lies to the west. Find Belford (25Km south of Berwick, 15km north of Alnwick) and take the B6349 signed to Wooler, from the centre of the village. After passing a right turn (or fork) after 4km, continue for 200 yards or so until you surmount a small hill and reach a short plateau; park on the grass verge. The crags - not particularly obvious from the road - are through a farm gate on the right, set back 100 yards across a cow-field.

>From the A697, the crag lies to the east. Find Wooler, and take the B6348 signed to Belford. After about 3.5km, the road takes a 90 degree right turn, and after another 300 yards or so, you should take a left turn onto the B6349 signed Belford. Continue for about 6km until you climb a small hill and find the plateau; park on the verge. The crag is to your left. [Simon Smith]

Do not block the gates to the fields as they are in constant use by the farmer.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008), Northern England (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE BOULDERS  
2Ravine Slopersf6B 4
3Ravine Flakef6A 8
4Problem 35f6B 3
5Born Lippyf8A *6
6Pulp Frictionf7C+ *1
7The Fan Leftf6A 4
8The Fan Centralf6A 5
9The Fan Rightf6A 4
10Outer Limits Direct FinishE2 5c 2
11Outer LimitsE2 5c **3
12Childs Playf6B **200
13Playtimef6A 18
14Offwidthf4 8
15Parisienne Walkwaysf6C 5
16Entrebaillementf6A 72
17Bottomf6A 11
18Problem 24f6A 6
19Problem 23f5+ 23
20Problem 22 (Bottom Area)f4 27
21Problem 21f5 16
22Sandy Scoopf6A 5
23Alfie Thorntonf7C+ 2
24The Crack SSf8A+ 1
25The Crackf7C+ **18
26The Whackf6B 1
27The Lightbulbf6A 205
28Sheep Pen Traversef4 52
29Cornerf4 96
30Blind Seamf5 104
31Dreaming of Heucof4 115
32Paw Printsf3 120
33Hanging Ribf4 107
34Sheep Pen Scoopf3 106
35Semantronf7B+ ** 
36The Mantleshelff7A 73
37Sandy Ribf5+ 112
38Scooped Wallf6B ***210
39Sandy Aretef4+ 44
40Scooped Wall LHf4+ 43
41Scooped Wall RHf5 33
42Apple Crumblef6A *2
43LH Flakef4 76
44RH Flakef5 55
45Black Wallf5+ 13
46Pathside Boulder Traversef6A 8
 WARM UP WALL  
48Warmed up and Worn Out Circuitf6C 2
49Warm Up Traversef6A 23
50Endf5+ 46
51Wallf5 57
52The Crescent Flakef6A 43
53Groovef4 62
54Short Slabf5 54
55Evening WallS 4b 73
 THE SCOOPS  
57Another Heap of itHVS 5c 6
58Finale WallE1 5c 7
59Scoop ThreeE1 5b 34
60LibertyE3 6a 1
61Scoop TwoE1 5b *30
62Toffs Variation StartE3 6b 2
63Toffsf6C 6b 11
64Toffs (full route)E3 6b 1
65Toff's Jumpf7A 18
66Bourgeoisief8A+ ** 
67Working Classf7C+ *5
68Working Class SSf8B **3
69Second Classf7C 1
70Poverty (full route)E5 6c *3
71Povertyf7B+ *21
72Poverty Right-Handf7B **18
73His Eminencef7A+ ***59
74His Eminence (start only)f6B *95
75Stu's Variationf7A 17
76Scoop OneE1 5b *36
77The JudgeE4 6a **8
78The TrialE3 6a ***80
79The JuryE3 5c *9
80Bloody CrackVS 5a *17
81Aretef5 24
82Bloody NoseHS 5a *175
83The ShinerVS 5b 61
 THE WAVE  
85The SkateE1 5c 11
86Flying Fishf6A 6a *51
87Flying Stagf7B 2
88The StingE3 6a **13
89Honeycomb Wallf7C+ *1
90Honeycomb wall SSf8A+ *** 
91Manukaf8A ** 
92Manta LHf7B 47
93Manta Directf6C 9
94Manta RHf6B 74
95The MantaE3 6a ***42
96Viennaf7B+ 38
97Vienna SSf8A 2
98Undertowf7C 1
99Rising DampE4 6b **2
100Inner SpaceE5 6b **1
101High TideE5 6a **1
102The WaveE5 6a ***3
103Captain Haddock LHf7A *6
104Captain Haddockf6C 6b *42
105Rough PassageE6 6b ***1
106Poseidon AdventureE4 6a ***40
107NarcosisE6 6c 1
108Growlersf8A 1
109The BendsE4 6b *4
110Rip the LipE6 6a 1
111Green CrackHVS 5b *12
 BARBARIAN  
113Atillaf7C  
114Staggeredf7B+ **25
115Staggered SSf8A **1
116Jimbo's off to Ozf7B+ 1
117BarbarianE5 6b ***4
 THE CAVE  
119Underdog Traversef8A+ 1
120Sprungf7C *42
121Cave LH Problemf6B **96
122Left of Centref7A+ **1
123Cave Central LHf7A **27
124Cave Central Directf7A **1
125Cave Central RHf6C+ **19
126V Crimpsf7C ***16
127Cave RH Problemf6B+ **79
128Cave Traversef5+ 24
129See you in DisneylandE3 6a 1
130Giants EarVS 5a 35
131Shoulders of Giantsf7C 1
132Shoulders of Giants Dynof7A 8
133Bulls LugE2 6a 4
134Robbers RibVS 5b 8
 CRUNCHE WALL  
136RH Aretef4+ 38
137Middle Problemf4 66
138LH Problemf4+ 56
139Little Boulder Traversef6A 21
140Arrow CrackVD 60
141Billy LiarE2 5c 4
142Crunchie Traversef5 81
143Crunchie (full route)E2 5c **65
144Crunchief6A+ **48
145Temptation (full route)E3 6b *5
146Temptationf7A 6c *18
147Blind WallS 4a *81
148Hanging CrackE1 5b *37
149Cruel DudeE4 5c 1
150BoomerE4 5c *1
151No SurrenderE4 6a 1
152Brothers in ArmsE5 6b 1
153RetreatE1 5b 6
 BANANA WALL + TIGER WALL  
155Wall EndVD 77
156Wall End DirectHS 4c *77
157Yellow PerilE2 5c 20
158The RunnelVS 5a **234
159Banana WallVS 4c **395
160AbananaE1 5c *95
161Abanana Wallf5+ *25
162Banana GrooveHVS 5a 64
163Black CrackVD 217
164Red CrackHS 4c 58
165LeoE2 5b *14
166Tiger's WallHVS 5a ***476
167Tigers Wall Circuitf5+ 14
168The CheetahE2 5c 6
169The RajahE5 6b ***8
170The Radgyf7C ** 
171Antihydralf8A 1
172ImageryE4 6b 1
173Slab CrackE1 5b *22
 LORRAINE  
175Don't Let Go Aretef7C 1
176Don't Let Go Direct StartE2 6c 2
177Don't Let GoE2 5c *29
178Dont Let Go Variationf5+ 4
179Lorraine Wall Traversef6A 12
180LorraineVS 5a ***523
181Lorraine (start only)f5 ***35
182Little Red RoosterE1 5c *113
183RuntVS 5a 38
184Pride Before a FallVS 5a 18
185Crescent WallS 4b *164
186PitchforkE2 5c 5
187Pitcher WallHVS 5a *70
188Picher Wall DirectE1 5c 14
189The KeepE1 5b 6
190The Belford Pie ShopE3 6a 4
191Castle CrackHVD ***881
192BellaE2 5c 6
193Sue DirectHVS 5b 56
194SueS 4c *273
195Flake WallD 132
196Flake ChimneyD 63
 CASTLE WALL + SCORPION  
198Castle WallS 4b 271
199Wall CrackVS 4c 57
200Triple CracksHS 4c *245
201Short CrackVD 53
202Creepy Crawlyf6A 6a 8
203The Harvest Bugf6A 6a 19
204Listen to the RainE4 5c 5
205Woolman's WallVS 5a *114
206The LobsterE2 5c 18
207Crab WallHS 4b *277
208ScorpionVS 4c **638
209NutcrackerHVS 5b 68
210Brutally HandsomeE2 5c 15
211Nose ChimneyD 53
212Broken CrackE2 5c 10
 LEANING GROOVES  
214Blocked Chimney CornerHS 4c 126
215Second Leaning GrooveVS 5a *298
216First Leaning GrooveHVS 5a **177
217Street RunnerE4 5c *5
218The Big Splash Direct FinishE3 5c 4
219The Big SplashE2 5c *21
220Hanging Flakef6A 10
221Flake Eliminatef7A **19
222Long JohnS 4c 81
223Transformer LHf7B+ **45
224Transformer Direct Startf7A **89
225Transformer (full route)E2 5c *19
226Transformerf6A 6a *110
227Transformer RHf6C 28
228Jackdaw CrackHVS 5b *23
229Long CrackHVS 5a **125
230First CenturyE4 6a *5
231Klondyke WallE2 5c **179
232Klondyke Wall Circuitf5+ 3
233Canada CrackHVS 5a ***502
234Quatra TwinkleyE3 6a 2
235Dog Eat Dogf6C 6b **136
236One Movef7A+ *10
237Canada DryVS 5a 53
238Family PressureE1 5c 48
239Heaven Can WaitE6 6b 2
 OVERHANGING CRACK  
241Go To Hellf7A+ **3
242Nature's Angryf7B+ *** 
243Death KnellE6 6b *3
244Hangover WallE5 6b 1
245The Overhanging CrackE2 5c ***175
246Scoop Traversef7A **33
247Russet GrooveVD ***1239
248Red NoseVS 4c 55
249Exhibition CrackHS 4c *444
250Brown Ale WallE1 5b 27
251Guards ExitVD 360
252Guards Exit Directf6A 12
253Pinkie PeelerVS 5a 19
254Girdle Traverse of the Main WallVS 4c 19
255The CornerHVS 5a 68
 MAIN WALL  
257Maginot LineE3 6a 1
258Crater MakerE4 6a 5
259Flake CrackS 4b *392
260A Grave MaskE4 6a 1
261Goose StepE3 6a **7
262Kaiser BillE4 6b *4
263Grovel Grove Variation FinishHVS 5a 24
264Grovel GrooveS 4a **607
265Please Stop Me Before I Kill MyselfE3 6b 1
266The GauleiterE3 6a **11
267The ScoopVS 4c **804
268Red Wall Traversef5+ 5
269Black and Tan DirectE2 6a 29
270Black and Tan Alternative FinishHVS 5a 56
271Black and TanS 4c **794
272Black and Tan DirectE2 6a 6
273Jock Strap (Y-Front LH Finish)f6B+ 25
274Y-Front SSf6B 12
275Y-Frontf6A 6a *238
276Y-Front Directf7A ***97
277Y-Front Aretef7B+ 7
278X-Firef6C+ 5
279Second StaircaseD *369
280Deception CrackVD *375
281Stretcher WallE1 5c **139
282The ViperE1 6a *63
283Hissing SidE1 5c 17
284Main Wall EliminateHVS 5b *141
285Main WallHVS 5b ***443
286Handrail Eliminatef5+ 10
287Handrail EliminateHVS 5c 31
288HandrailVS 4c 335
289Eliminate SSf6A 8
290Eliminatef5 15
291Introductory StaircaseM *234
292Banister CrackVD 100
293Main Wall Traversef5 12
294Main Wall Low Level Traversef7A 3
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