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These details were last updated on 18/Nov/2008

Bowden Doors

Northumberland, ENGLAND

Climbs 279 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 170m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A half-mile or so of superb 7-15m climbs, of all grades, but tending to the technical. The crag is a local summit, rarely wet and quick drying; ideal for year-round exercise. At the northern end, the rock is overhung in the shape of a breaking wave - really rather eerie. Good views of the coast from the top. Bowden is part of the same outcrop as Back Bowden Doors (about a mile away), and Kyloe Crags (10km north; 15km by road). [Simon Smith]

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Northern England (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE BOULDERS  
2Ravine Slopersf6B 3
3Ravine Flakef6A 7
4Problem 35f6B 2
5Born Lippyf8A *1
6Pulp Frictionf7C+ *1
7The Fan Leftf6A 4
8The Fan Centralf6A 5
9The Fan Rightf6A 4
10Outer Limits Direct FinishE2 5c 2
11Outer LimitsE2 5c **3
12Childs Playf6B **167
13Playtimef6A 15
14Offwidthfont 4 3
15Parisienne Walkwaysf6C 5
16Entrebaillementf6A 59
17Bottomf6A 8
18Problem 24f6A 5
19Problem 23font 5+ 19
20Problem 22 (Bottom Area)font 4 21
21Problem 21font 5 12
22Sandy Scoopf6A 5
23Alfie Thorntonf7C+ 2
24The Crack SSf8A+ 1
25The Crackf7C+ **8
26The Whackf6B 1
27The Lightbulbf6A 164
28Sheep Pen Traversefont 4 31
29Cornerfont 4 66
30Blind Seamfont 5 77
31Dreaming of Heucofont 4 83
32Paw Printsfont 3 85
33Hanging Ribfont 4 76
34Sheep Pen Scoopfont 3 72
35Semantronf7B+ ** 
36The Mantleshelff7A 57
37Sandy Ribfont 5+ 82
38Scooped Wallf6B ***152
39Sandy Aretefont 4+ 33
40Scooped Wall LHfont 4+ 30
41Scooped Wall RHfont 5 23
42Apple Crumblef6A *2
43LH Flakefont 4 49
44RH Flakefont 5 36
45Black Wallfont 5+ 8
46Pathside Boulder Traversef6A 5
 WARM UP WALL  
48Warmed up and Worn Out Circuitf6C 2
49Warm Up Traversef6A 17
50Endfont 5+ 33
51Wallfont 5 42
52The Crescent Flakef6A 26
53Groovefont 4 45
54Short Slabfont 5 39
55Evening WallMS 4b 60
 THE SCOOPS  
57Another Heap of itHVS 5c 6
58Finale WallE1 5c 6
59Scoop ThreeE1 5b 30
60LibertyE3 6a 1
61Scoop TwoE1 5c *25
62Toffs Variation StartE3 6b 2
63Toffsf7A 10
64Toffs (full route)E3 6b 1
65Toff's Jumpf7A 14
66Bourgeoisief8A+ ** 
67Working Classf8A+ ***5
68Working Class SSf8B **2
69Second Classf7C 1
70Poverty (full route)E5 6c *3
71Povertyf7A+ *16
72Poverty Right-Handf7B **15
73His Eminencef7A+ ***52
74His Eminence (start only)f6B *62
75Stu's Variationf7A 9
76Scoop OneE1 5b *31
77The JudgeE3 6a *4
78The TrialE3 5c ***66
79The JuryE3 5c *8
80Bloody CrackVS 5a *13
81Aretefont 5 21
82Bloody NoseHS 5a *150
83The ShinerVS 5b 47
 THE WAVE  
85The SkateE1 5c 9
86Flying Fishf6A+ *43
87Flying Stagf7B 2
88The StingE3 5c ***10
89Honeycomb Wallf7C+ *1
90Honeycomb wall SSf8A+ *** 
91Manukaf8A ** 
92Manta LHf7B 31
93Manta Directf6C 9
94Manta RHf6B 42
95The MantaE3 6a ***28
96Viennaf7B+ ***28
97Vienna SSf8A 1
98Undertowf7C 1
99Rising DampE4 6b **1
100Inner SpaceE5 6b **1
101High TideE5 6a **1
102The WaveE5 6a **1
103Captain Haddock LHf7A *5
104Captain Haddockf7B *30
105Rough PassageE6 6b ***1
106Poseidon AdventureE4 6a ***36
107NarcosisE6 6c 1
108Growlersf8A 1
109The BendsE5 6c *4
110Rip the LipE6 6a 1
111Green CrackE1 5b *11
 BARBARIAN  
113Atillaf7C  
114Staggeredf7B ***19
115Staggered SSf8A **1
116Jimbo's off to Ozf7B+ 1
117BarbarianE5 6b ***2
 THE CAVE  
119Underdog Traversef8A+ 1
120Sprungf7C *25
121Cave LH Problemf6B **66
122Cave Central LHf7A **19
123Cave Central RHf6C+ **15
124V Crimpsf7C ***15
125Cave RH Problemf6B+ **60
126Cave Traversefont 5+ 17
127See you in DisneylandE3 6a 1
128Giants EarVS 5a 31
129Shoulders of Giantsf7C 1
130Shoulders of Giants Dynof7A 5
131Bulls LugE2 6a 2
132Robbers RibVS 5b 8
 CRUNCHE WALL  
134RH Aretefont 4+ 24
135Middle Problemfont 4 42
136LH Problemfont 4+ 33
137Little Boulder Traversef6A 9
138Arrow CrackVD 49
139Billy LiarE2 5c 4
140Crunchie Traversefont 5 59
141Crunchie (full route)E2 5c **46
142Crunchief6A+ **29
143Temptation (full route)E3 6b *4
144Temptationf7B+ **15
145Blind WallS 4a *64
146Hanging CrackE1 5b *34
 Climb nameGradex
147Cruel DudeE4 5c 1
148BoomerE4 5c *1
149No SurrenderE4 6a 1
150Brothers in ArmsE5 6b 1
151RetreatE1 5b 4
 BANANA WALL + TIGER WALL  
153Wall EndVD 54
154Wall End DirectHS 4c *55
155Yellow PerilE2 5c 16
156The RunnelHVS 5a *184
157Banana WallMVS 4c **305
158AbananaE1 5c **82
159Abanana Wallfont 5+ *15
160Banana GrooveHVS 5a 46
161Black CrackVD 153
162Red CrackHS 4c 49
163LeoE2 5b *11
164Tiger's WallVS 5a ***373
165Tigers Wall Circuitfont 5+ 10
166The CheetahE2 5c 5
167The RajahE5 6b ***7
168The Radgyf7C ** 
169Antihydralf8A 1
170ImageryE4 6b 1
171Slab CrackE1 5b *16
 LORRAINE  
173Don't Let Go Aretef7C 1
174Don't Let Go Direct StartE2 6c 2
175Don't Let GoE2 5c *25
176Dont Let Go Variationfont 5+ 1
177Lorraine Wall Traversef6A 8
178LorraineVS 4c ***426
179Lorraine (start only)font 5 ***21
180Little Red RoosterE1 5c *74
181RuntVS 5a 32
182Pride Before a FallVS 5a 15
183Crescent WallMS 4b *113
184PitchforkE2 5c 5
185Pitcher WallHVS 5a *44
186Picher Wall DirectE1 5c 11
187The KeepE1 5b 5
188The Belford Pie ShopE3 6a 3
189Castle CrackVD ***682
190BellaE2 5c 6
191Sue DirectHVS 5b 46
192SueS 4c *207
193Flake WallD 94
194Flake ChimneyD 52
 CASTLE WALL + SCORPION  
196Castle WallMS 4b 203
197Wall CrackMVS 4c 44
198Triple CracksHS 4b *214
199Short CrackVD 42
200Creepy Crawlyf6A 8
201The Harvest Bugf6A 17
202Listen to the RainE4 5c 5
203Woolman's WallVS 5a *82
204The LobsterE2 5c 16
205Crab WallHS 4b *217
206ScorpionVS 4c **526
207NutcrackerHVS 5c 59
208Brutally HandsomeE2 5c 13
209Nose ChimneyD 39
210Broken CrackE2 5c 9
 LEANING GROOVES  
212Blocked Chimney CornerHS 4c 94
213Second Leaning GrooveVS 5a **232
214First Leaning GrooveHVS 5a **146
215Street RunnerE4 5c *5
216The Big Splash Direct FinishE3 5c 4
217The Big SplashE2 5c 19
218Hanging Flakef6A 5
219Flake Eliminatef7A **13
220Long JohnS 4c 59
221Transformer LHf7B+ **34
222Transformer Direct Startf7A **64
223Transformer (full route)E2 5c *15
224Transformerf6A+ **85
225Transformer RHf6C 21
226Jackdaw CrackHVS 5b *18
227Long CrackHVS 5a **97
228First CenturyE3 6a *3
229Klondyke WallE2 5c **138
230Canada CrackHVS 5a ***408
231Quatra TwinkleyE3 6a 2
232Dog Eat Dogf7A **108
233One Movef7A+ *7
234Canada DryVS 5a 42
235Family PressureE1 5c 37
236Heaven Can WaitE6 6b 2
 OVERHANGING CRACK  
238Go To Hellf7A+ **3
239Nature's Angryf7B+ *** 
240Death Knellf7B 3
241Hangover WallE5 6b 1
242The Overhanging CrackE2 5c ***133
243Scoop Traversef7A **29
244Russet GrooveVD ***951
245Red NoseVS 4c 39
246Exhibition CrackHS 4c *342
247Brown Ale WallE1 5b 25
248Guards ExitVD *270
249Guards Exit Directf6A 7
250Pinkie PeelerVS 5a 17
251Girdle Traverse of the Main WallVS 4c 16
252The CornerHVS 5a 53
 MAIN WALL  
254Maginot LineE3 6a 1
255Crater MakerE4 6a 5
256Flake CrackS 4b 290
257A Grave MaskE4 6a 1
258Goose StepE3 6a **6
259Kaiser BillE4 6b *4
260Grovel Grove Variation FinishHVS 5a 21
261Grovel GrooveMS *459
262Please Stop Me Before I Kill MyselfE3 6b 1
263The GauleiterE3 6a **7
264The ScoopVS ***620
265Red Wall Traversefont 5+ 4
266Black and Tan DirectE2 6a 22
267Black and Tan Alternative FinishHVS 5a 41
268Black and TanS 4b **618
269Black and Tan Directf6B+ 2
270Jock Strap (Y-Front LH Finish)f6B+ 24
271Y-Front SSf6B 10
272Y-Frontf6A+ **201
273Y-Front Directf7A ***63
274Y-Front Aretef7B+ 6
275X-Firef6C+ 3
276Second StaircaseD 269
277Deception CrackVD 272
278Stretcher WallE1 5c *111
279The TwudE1 5b *4
280The ViperE1 6a 40
281Hissing SidE1 5c 10
282Main Wall EliminateHVS 5b 115
283Main WallHVS 5b ***354
284Handrail Eliminatefont 5+ 9
285Handrail EliminateHVS 5c 27
286HandrailVS 4c ***250
287Eliminate SSf6A 5
288Eliminatefont 5 11
289Introductory StaircaseM 166
290Banister CrackVD 72
291Main Wall Traversefont 5 7
292Main Wall Low Level Traversef7A 3
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Access notes
From the A1, the crag lies to the west. Find Belford (25Km south of Berwick, 15km north of Alnwick) and take the B6349 signed to Wooler, from the centre of the village. After passing a right turn (or fork) after 4km, continue for 200 yards or so until you surmount a small hill and reach a short plateau; park on the grass verge. The crags - not particularly obvious from the road - are through a farm gate on the right, set back 100 yards across a cow-field.

>From the A697, the crag lies to the east. Find Wooler, and take the B6348 signed to Belford. After about 3.5km, the road takes a 90 degree right turn, and after another 300 yards or so, you should take a left turn onto the B6349 signed Belford. Continue for about 6km until you climb a small hill and find the plateau; park on the verge. The crag is to your left. [Simon Smith]

Do not block the gates to the fields as they are in constant use by the farmer.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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