Bowden Doors

Climbs 281 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 170m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A half-mile or so of superb 7-15m climbs, of all grades, but tending to the technical. The crag is a local summit, rarely wet and quick drying; ideal for year-round exercise. At the northern end, the rock is overhung in the shape of a breaking wave - really rather eerie. Good views of the coast from the top. Bowden is part of the same outcrop as Back Bowden Doors (about a mile away), and Kyloe Crags (10km north; 15km by road). [Simon Smith]

Access notes
From the A1, the crag lies to the west. Find Belford (25Km south of Berwick, 15km north of Alnwick) and take the B6349 signed to Wooler, from the centre of the village. After passing a right turn (or fork) after 4km, continue for 200 yards or so until you surmount a small hill and reach a short plateau; park on the grass verge. The crags - not particularly obvious from the road - are through a farm gate on the right, set back 100 yards across a cow-field.

>From the A697, the crag lies to the east. Find Wooler, and take the B6348 signed to Belford. After about 3.5km, the road takes a 90 degree right turn, and after another 300 yards or so, you should take a left turn onto the B6349 signed Belford. Continue for about 6km until you climb a small hill and find the plateau; park on the verge. The crag is to your left. [Simon Smith]

Do not block the gates to the fields as they are in constant use by the farmer.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northern England (2008), Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 THE BOULDERS 
2Ravine Slopersf6B
3Ravine Flakef6A
4Problem 35f6B
5Born Lippyf8A *
6Pulp Frictionf7C+ *
7The Fan Leftf6A
8The Fan Centralf6A
9The Fan Rightf6A
10Outer Limits Direct FinishE2 5c
11Outer LimitsE2 5c **
12Childs Playf6B **
13Playtimef6A
14Offwidthf4
15Parisienne Walkwaysf6C
16Entrebaillementf6A
17Bottomf6A
18Problem 24f6A
19Problem 23f5+
20Problem 22 (Bottom Area)f4
21Problem 21f5
22Sandy Scoopf6A
23Alfie Thorntonf7C+
24The Crack SSf8A+
25The Crackf7C+ **
26The Whackf6B
27The Lightbulbf6A
28Sheep Pen Traversef4
29Cornerf4
30Blind Seamf5
31Dreaming of Heucof4
32Paw Printsf3
33Hanging Ribf4
34Sheep Pen Scoopf3
35Semantronf7B+ **
36The Mantleshelff7A
37Sandy Ribf5+
38Scooped Wallf6B ***
39Sandy Aretef4+
40Scooped Wall LHf4+
41Scooped Wall RHf5
42Apple Crumblef6A *
43LH Flakef4
44RH Flakef5
45Black Wallf5+
46Pathside Boulder Traversef6A
 WARM UP WALL 
48Warmed up and Worn Out Circuitf6C
49Warm Up Traversef6A
50Endf5+
51Wallf5
52The Crescent Flakef6A
53Groovef4
54Short Slabf5
55Evening WallMS 4b
 THE SCOOPS 
57Another Heap of itHVS 5c
58Finale WallE1 5c
59Scoop ThreeE1 5b
60LibertyE3 6a
61Scoop TwoE1 5c *
62Toffs Variation StartE3 6b
63Toffsf7A
64Toffs (full route)E3 6b
65Toff's Jumpf7A
66Bourgeoisief8A+ **
67Working Classf8A+ ***
68Working Class SSf8B **
69Second Classf7C
70Poverty (full route)E5 6c *
71Povertyf7A+ *
72Poverty Right-Handf7B **
73His Eminencef7A+ ***
74His Eminence (start only)f6B *
75Stu's Variationf7A
76Scoop OneE1 5b *
77The JudgeE3 6a *
78The TrialE3 5c ***
79The JuryE3 5c *
80Bloody CrackVS 5a *
81Aretef5
82Bloody NoseHS 5a *
83The ShinerVS 5b
 THE WAVE 
85The SkateE1 5c
86Flying Fishf6A+ *
87Flying Stagf7B
88The StingE3 5c ***
89Honeycomb Wallf7C+ *
90Honeycomb wall SSf8A+ ***
91Manukaf8A **
92Manta LHf7B
93Manta Directf6C
94Manta RHf6B
95The MantaE3 6a ***
96Viennaf7B+ ***
97Vienna SSf8A
98Undertowf7C
99Rising DampE4 6b **
100Inner SpaceE5 6b **
101High TideE5 6a **
102The WaveE5 6a **
103Captain Haddock LHf7A *
104Captain Haddockf7B *
105Rough PassageE6 6b ***
106Poseidon AdventureE4 6a ***
107NarcosisE6 6c
108Growlersf8A
109The BendsE5 6c *
110Rip the LipE6 6a
111Green CrackE1 5b *
 BARBARIAN 
113Atillaf7C
114Staggeredf7B ***
115Staggered SSf8A **
116Jimbo's off to Ozf7B+
117BarbarianE5 6b ***
 THE CAVE 
119Underdog Traversef8A+
120Sprungf7C *
121Cave LH Problemf6B **
122Left of Centref7A+ **
123Cave Central LHf7A **
124Cave Central Directf7A **
125Cave Central RHf6C+ **
126V Crimpsf7C ***
127Cave RH Problemf6B+ **
128Cave Traversef5+
129See you in DisneylandE3 6a
130Giants EarVS 5a
131Shoulders of Giantsf7C
132Shoulders of Giants Dynof7A
133Bulls LugE2 6a
134Robbers RibVS 5b
 CRUNCHE WALL 
136RH Aretef4+
137Middle Problemf4
138LH Problemf4+
139Little Boulder Traversef6A
140Arrow CrackVD
141Billy LiarE2 5c
142Crunchie Traversef5
143Crunchie (full route)E2 5c **
144Crunchief6A+ **
145Temptation (full route)E3 6b *
146Temptationf7B+ **
147Blind WallS 4a *
148Hanging CrackE1 5b *
149Cruel DudeE4 5c
150BoomerE4 5c *
151No SurrenderE4 6a
152Brothers in ArmsE5 6b
153RetreatE1 5b
 BANANA WALL + TIGER WALL 
155Wall EndVD
156Wall End DirectHS 4c *
157Yellow PerilE2 5c
158The RunnelHVS 5a *
159Banana WallMVS 4c **
160AbananaE1 5c **
161Abanana Wallf5+ *
162Banana GrooveHVS 5a
163Black CrackVD
164Red CrackHS 4c
165LeoE2 5b *
166Tiger's WallVS 5a ***
167Tigers Wall Circuitf5+
168The CheetahE2 5c
169The RajahE5 6b ***
170The Radgyf7C **
171Antihydralf8A
172ImageryE4 6b
173Slab CrackE1 5b *
 LORRAINE 
175Don't Let Go Aretef7C
176Don't Let Go Direct StartE2 6c
177Don't Let GoE2 5c *
178Dont Let Go Variationf5+
179Lorraine Wall Traversef6A
180LorraineVS 4c ***
181Lorraine (start only)f5 ***
182Little Red RoosterE1 5c *
183RuntVS 5a
184Pride Before a FallVS 5a
185Crescent WallMS 4b *
186PitchforkE2 5c
187Pitcher WallHVS 5a *
188Picher Wall DirectE1 5c
189The KeepE1 5b
190The Belford Pie ShopE3 6a
191Castle CrackVD ***
192BellaE2 5c
193Sue DirectHVS 5b
194SueS 4c *
195Flake WallD
196Flake ChimneyD
 CASTLE WALL + SCORPION 
198Castle WallMS 4b
199Wall CrackMVS 4c
200Triple CracksHS 4b *
201Short CrackVD
202Creepy Crawlyf6A
203The Harvest Bugf6A
204Listen to the RainE4 5c
205Woolman's WallVS 5a *
206The LobsterE2 5c
207Crab WallHS 4b *
208ScorpionVS 4c **
209NutcrackerHVS 5c
210Brutally HandsomeE2 5c
211Nose ChimneyD
212Broken CrackE2 5c
 LEANING GROOVES 
214Blocked Chimney CornerHS 4c
215Second Leaning GrooveVS 5a **
216First Leaning GrooveHVS 5a **
217Street RunnerE4 5c *
218The Big Splash Direct FinishE3 5c
219The Big SplashE2 5c
220Hanging Flakef6A
221Flake Eliminatef7A **
222Long JohnS 4c
223Transformer LHf7B+ **
224Transformer Direct Startf7A **
225Transformer (full route)E2 5c *
226Transformerf6A+ **
227Transformer RHf6C
228Jackdaw CrackHVS 5b *
229Long CrackHVS 5a **
230First CenturyE3 6a *
231Klondyke WallE2 5c **
232Klondyke Wall Circuitf5+
233Canada CrackHVS 5a ***
234Quatra TwinkleyE3 6a
235Dog Eat Dogf7A **
236One Movef7A+ *
237Canada DryVS 5a
238Family PressureE1 5c
239Heaven Can WaitE6 6b
 OVERHANGING CRACK 
241Go To Hellf7A+ **
242Nature's Angryf7B+ ***
243Death Knellf7B
244Hangover WallE5 6b
245The Overhanging CrackE2 5c ***
246Scoop Traversef7A **
247Russet GrooveVD ***
248Red NoseVS 4c
249Exhibition CrackHS 4c *
250Brown Ale WallE1 5b
251Guards ExitVD *
252Guards Exit Directf6A
253Pinkie PeelerVS 5a
254Girdle Traverse of the Main WallVS 4c
255The CornerHVS 5a
 MAIN WALL 
257Maginot LineE3 6a
258Crater MakerE4 6a
259Flake CrackS 4b
260A Grave MaskE4 6a
261Goose StepE3 6a **
262Kaiser BillE4 6b *
263Grovel Grove Variation FinishHVS 5a
264Grovel GrooveMS *
265Please Stop Me Before I Kill MyselfE3 6b
266The GauleiterE3 6a **
267The ScoopVS ***
268Red Wall Traversef5+
269Black and Tan DirectE2 6a
270Black and Tan Alternative FinishHVS 5a
271Black and TanS 4b **
272Black and Tan Directf6B+
273Jock Strap (Y-Front LH Finish)f6B+
274Y-Front SSf6B
275Y-Frontf6A+ **
276Y-Front Directf7A ***
277Y-Front Aretef7B+
278X-Firef6C+
279Second StaircaseD
280Deception CrackVD
281Stretcher WallE1 5c *
282The ViperE1 6a
283Hissing SidE1 5c
284Main Wall EliminateHVS 5b
285Main WallHVS 5b ***
286Handrail Eliminatef5+
287Handrail EliminateHVS 5c
288HandrailVS 4c ***
289Eliminate SSf6A
290Eliminatef5
291Introductory StaircaseM
292Banister CrackVD
293Main Wall Traversef5
294Main Wall Low Level Traversef7A
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These details were last updated on 17/Mar/2014

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