Bowden Doors

Climbs 285 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 170m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A half-mile or so of superb 7-15m climbs, of all grades, but tending to the technical. The crag is a local summit, rarely wet and quick drying; ideal for year-round exercise. At the northern end, the rock is overhung in the shape of a breaking wave - really rather eerie. Good views of the coast from the top. Bowden is part of the same outcrop as Back Bowden Doors (about a mile away), and Kyloe Crags (10km north; 15km by road). [Simon Smith]

Approach notes
From the A1, the crag lies to the west. Find Belford (25Km south of Berwick, 15km north of Alnwick) and take the B6349 signed to Wooler, from the centre of the village. After passing a right turn (or fork) after 4km, continue for 200 yards or so until you surmount a small hill and reach a short plateau; park on the grass verge. The crags - not particularly obvious from the road - are through a farm gate on the right, set back 100 yards across a cow-field.

>From the A697, the crag lies to the east. Find Wooler, and take the B6348 signed to Belford. After about 3.5km, the road takes a 90 degree right turn, and after another 300 yards or so, you should take a left turn onto the B6349 signed Belford. Continue for about 6km until you climb a small hill and find the plateau; park on the verge. The crag is to your left. [Simon Smith]

Do not block the gates to the fields as they are in constant use by the farmer.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northern England (2008), Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989), Northumberland (1979)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE BOULDERS  
2Ravine Slopersf6B 8
3Ravine Flakef6A 13
4Problem 35f6B 3
5Born Lippyf8A *6
6Pulp Frictionf7C+ *1
7The Fan Leftf6A 4
8The Fan Centralf6A 5
9The Fan Rightf6A 4
10Outer Limits Direct FinishE2 5c 2
11Outer LimitsE2 5c **4
12Childs Playf6B **215
13Playtimef6A 24
14Offwidthf4 9
15Parisienne Walkwaysf6C 5
16Entrebaillementf6A 79
17Bottomf6A 11
18Problem 24f6A 6
19Problem 23f5+ 23
20Problem 22 (Bottom Area)f4 29
21Problem 21f5 17
22Sandy Scoopf6A 6
23Alfie Thorntonf7C+ 2
24The Crack SSf8A+ 1
25The Crackf7C+ **18
26The Whackf6B 1
27The Lightbulbf6A 216
28Sheep Pen Traversef4 59
29Cornerf4 110
30Blind Seamf5 125
31Dreaming of Heucof4 133
32Paw Printsf3 142
33Hanging Ribf4 126
34Sheep Pen Scoopf3 120
35A Little less than Whence we startedf3 2
36Semantronf7B+ ** 
37The Mantleshelff7A 77
38Sandy Ribf5+ 124
39Scooped Wallf6B ***228
40Sandy Aretef4+ 52
41Scooped Wall LHf4+ 48
42Scooped Wall RHf5 38
43Apple Crumblef6A *2
44LH Flakef4 85
45RH Flakef5 63
46Black Wallf5+ 14
47Pathside Boulder Traversef6A 9
 WARM UP WALL  
49Warmed up and Worn Out Circuitf6C 2
50Warm Up Traversef6A 23
51Endf5+ 52
52Wallf5 63
53The Crescent Flakef6A 45
54Groovef4 67
55Short Slabf5 57
56Evening WallS 4b 79
 THE SCOOPS  
58Another Heap of itHVS 5c 6
59Finale WallE1 5c 7
60Scoop ThreeE1 5b 37
61LibertyE3 6a 1
62Scoop TwoE1 5b *34
63Toffs Variation StartE3 6b 3
64Toffsf6C 6b 11
65Toffs (full route)E3 6b 1
66Toff's Jumpf7A 18
67Bourgeoisief8A+ ** 
68Working Classf7C+ *5
69Working Class SSf8B **3
70Second Classf7C 1
71Poverty (full route)E5 6c *3
72Povertyf7B+ *24
73Poverty Right-Handf7B **20
74His Eminencef7A+ ***63
75His Eminence (start only)f6B *105
76Stu's Variationf7A 17
77Scoop OneE1 5b *38
78The JudgeE4 6a **9
79The TrialE3 6a ***83
80The JuryE3 5c *10
81Bloody CrackVS 5a *21
82Aretef5 25
83Bloody NoseHS 5a *187
84The ShinerVS 5b 65
 THE WAVE  
86The SkateE1 5c 12
87Flying Fishf6A 6a *55
88Flying Stagf7B 2
89The StingE3 6a **13
90Honeycomb Wallf7C+ *1
91Honeycomb wall SSf8A+ *** 
92Manukaf8A ** 
93Manta LHf7B 48
94Manta Directf6C 9
95Manta RHf6B 77
96The MantaE3 6a ***46
97Viennaf7B+ 38
98Vienna SSf8A 2
99Undertowf7C 2
100Rising DampE4 6b **2
101Inner SpaceE5 6b **1
102High TideE5 6a **1
103The WaveE5 6a ***4
104Captain Haddock LHf7A *6
105Captain Haddockf6C 6b *42
106Rough PassageE6 6b ***1
107Poseidon AdventureE4 6a ***41
108NarcosisE6 6c 1
109Growlersf8A 1
110The BendsE4 6b *4
111Rip the LipE6 6a 1
112Green CrackHVS 5b *13
 BARBARIAN  
114Atillaf7C  
115Staggeredf7B+ **26
116Staggered SSf8A **1
117Jimbo's off to Ozf7B+ 1
118BarbarianE5 6b ***4
 THE CAVE  
120Underdog Traversef8A+ 1
121Sprungf7C *45
122Cave LH Problemf6B **106
123Left of Centref7A+ **1
124Cave Central LHf7A **28
125Cave Central Directf7A **2
126Cave Central RHf6C+ **21
127V Crimpsf7C ***16
128Cave RH Problemf6B+ **85
129Cave Traversef5+ 26
130See you in DisneylandE3 6a 1
131Giants EarVS 5a 40
132Shoulders of Giantsf7C 1
133Shoulders of Giants Dynof7A 8
134Bulls LugE2 6a 4
135Robbers RibVS 5b 10
 CRUNCHE WALL  
137RH Aretef4+ 41
138Middle Problemf4 74
139LH Problemf4+ 63
140Little Boulder Traversef6A 23
141Arrow CrackVD 66
142Billy LiarE2 5c 5
143Crunchie Traversef5 89
144Crunchie High Traversef6C 1
145Crunchie (full route)E2 5c **68
146Crunchief6A+ **50
147Temptation (full route)E3 6b *5
148Temptationf7A 6c *18
149Blind WallS 4a *83
150Hanging CrackE1 5b *40
151Cruel DudeE4 5c 1
152BoomerE4 5c *2
153No SurrenderE4 6a 1
154Brothers in ArmsE5 6b 1
155RetreatE1 5b 7
 BANANA WALL + TIGER WALL  
157Wall EndVD 87
158Wall End DirectHS 4c *86
159Yellow PerilE2 5c 22
160The RunnelVS 5a **247
161Banana WallVS 4c **413
162Banana Wall Traversef4+ *1
163AbananaE1 5c *103
164Abanana Wallf5+ *27
165Banana GrooveHVS 5a 67
166Black CrackVD 233
167Red CrackHS 4c 62
168LeoE2 5b *15
169Tiger's WallHVS 5a ***519
170Tigers Wall Circuitf5+ 16
171The CheetahE2 5c 7
172The RajahE5 6b ***10
173The Radgyf7C ** 
174Antihydralf8A 1
175ImageryE4 6b 1
176Slab CrackE1 5b *23
 LORRAINE  
178Don't Let Go Aretef7C 1
179Don't Let Go Direct StartE2 6c 2
180Don't Let GoE2 5c *32
181Dont Let Go Variationf5+ 4
182Lorraine Wall Traversef6A 15
183LorraineVS 5a ***556
184Lorraine (start only)f5 ***36
185Little Red RoosterE1 5c *121
186RuntVS 5a 43
187Pride Before a FallVS 5a 22
188Crescent WallS 4b *175
189PitchforkE2 5c 6
190Pitcher WallHVS 5a *74
191Picher Wall DirectE1 5c 16
192The KeepE1 5b 6
193The Belford Pie ShopE3 6a 4
194Castle CrackHVD ***937
195BellaE2 5c 6
196Sue DirectHVS 5b 62
197SueS 4c *294
198Flake WallD 136
199Flake ChimneyD 67
 CASTLE WALL + SCORPION  
201Castle WallS 4b 279
202Wall CrackVS 4c 63
203Triple CracksHS 4c *262
204Short CrackVD 58
205Creepy Crawlyf6A 6a 8
206The Harvest Bugf6A 6a 20
207Listen to the RainE4 5c 5
208Woolman's WallVS 5a *127
209The LobsterE2 5c 18
210Crab WallHS 4b *294
211ScorpionVS 4c **688
212NutcrackerHVS 5b 72
213Brutally HandsomeE2 5c 15
214Nose ChimneyD 57
215Broken CrackE2 5c 11
 LEANING GROOVES  
217Blocked Chimney CornerHS 4c 132
218Second Leaning GrooveVS 5a *321
219First Leaning GrooveHVS 5a **187
220Street RunnerE4 5c *5
221The Big Splash Direct FinishE3 5c 4
222The Big SplashE2 5c *22
223Hanging Flakef6A 13
224Flake Eliminatef7A **19
225Long JohnS 4c 84
226Transformer LHf7B+ **45
227Transformer Direct Startf7A **94
228Transformer (full route)E2 5c *21
229Transformerf6A 6a *120
230Transformer RHf6C 31
231Jackdaw CrackHVS 5b *31
232Long CrackHVS 5a **132
233First CenturyE4 6a *5
234Klondyke WallE2 5c **195
235Klondyke Wall Circuitf5+ 4
236Canada CrackHVS 5a ***537
237Quatra TwinkleyE3 6a 2
238Dog Eat Dogf6C 6b **143
239One Movef7A+ *10
240Canada DryVS 5a 61
241Whisky Galoref4+ 1
242Family PressureE1 5c 51
243Heaven Can WaitE6 6b 2
 OVERHANGING CRACK  
245Go To Hellf7A+ **3
246Nature's Angryf7B+ *** 
247Death KnellE6 6b *3
248Hangover WallE5 6b 1
249The Overhanging CrackE2 5c ***194
250Scoop Traversef7A **34
251Russet GrooveVD ***1332
252Red NoseVS 4c 59
253Exhibition CrackHS 4c *477
254Brown Ale WallE1 5b 29
255Guards ExitVD 392
256Guards Exit Directf6A 15
257Pinkie PeelerVS 5a 22
258Girdle Traverse of the Main WallVS 4c 23
259The CornerHVS 5a 71
 MAIN WALL  
261Maginot LineE3 6a 1
262Crater MakerE4 6a 5
263Flake CrackS 4b *417
264A Grave MaskE4 6a 1
265Goose StepE3 6a **8
266Kaiser BillE4 6b *4
267Grovel Grove Variation FinishHVS 5a 26
268Grovel GrooveS 4a **651
269Please Stop Me Before I Kill MyselfE3 6b 1
270The GauleiterE3 6a **13
271The ScoopVS 4c **870
272Red Wall Traversef5+ 6
273Black and Tan DirectE2 6a 31
274Black and Tan Alternative FinishHVS 5a 65
275Black and TanS 4c **853
276Black and Tan DirectE2 6a 7
277Jock Strap (Y-Front LH Finish)f6B+ 29
278Y-Front SSf6B 16
279Y-Frontf6A 6a *246
280Y-Front Directf7A ***102
281Y-Front Aretef7B+ 7
282X-Firef6C+ 7
283Second StaircaseD *390
284Deception CrackVD *400
285Stretcher WallE1 5c **155
286The ViperE1 6a *68
287Hissing SidE1 5c 18
288Main Wall EliminateHVS 5b *151
289Main WallHVS 5b ***479
290Handrail Eliminatef5+ 13
291Handrail EliminateHVS 5c 34
292HandrailVS 4c 355
293Eliminate SSf6A 9
294Eliminatef5 17
295Introductory StaircaseM *245
296Banister CrackVD 104
297Main Wall Traversef5 14
298Main Wall Low Level Traversef7A 3
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The end of the wall above Castle Wall and Wall Crack has been moved back 5m, the remainder of the wall has been trundled down the face so watch for loose rocks at the bottom and dust on holds.
jonnie3430 - 12/Apr/15