Climbs 92
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 184m a.s.l
Faces W

Me on The Plonka (S), Corby's Crag, Northumberland © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Most routes are S to HVS. This crag, because of its proximity to the car park gets far too much traffic and is being seriously damaged, particularly by large groups. [John Earl]

Some great middle grade single and (a few) double pitch climbs. Wet in winter, and sometimes slow to dry; fine and well worthwhile in summer. The more popular routes are normally quite clean; others can be quite dusty with sediment from the water run-off. Route of the Crag: Audacity - 15m, HVS, 5a (but often dusty). [Simon Smith]

Approach notes

Please don't! [John Earl] But if you do..

3 miles west of Alnwick, on the B6341, and 3 miles east of the A697. Travelling E, you'll see the crags from the road. Travelling W, look for the second largish lay-by of the right side of the road, about 300 yards after a ninety degree left turn. There are a number of crags; the main ones are below the level of the road, completely hidden from view, but all of twenty yards from the road. BTW, you get one of the best views in Northumberland from the crags, over the Vale of Whittingham, an ancient floodplain, with Cheviot in the distance. [Simon Smith]


Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004)

Out of print:
Not as bad a crag as the locals would have you believe. The rock on the Sunshine Superman section of the crag is some of the best quality sandstone in the county. Nice evening crag with a lovely view, not perfect though.
hobblingfool - 22/Sep/12
Nice little crag easy access with the parking right above it, Great views from top, some climbs graded on the soft side, but good venue
Geds - 20/Oct/11
Good days climbing to be had, Parking roadside could be dodgy due to angle facing upwards when parking and nice not to hear cars roaring passed. Dries out very quickly
ronaldo45 - 17/Aug/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Top Boulder 
2Problem 5V1 13
3Top Traverse
f5 9
 Far South Buttress 
5Mr JonesD 204
6Little XVS 5a *95
7Little X DirectVS 5b 14
8Two Tree ChimneyD 28
9Bloody SundayVS 5a *58
10RejectE1 5b 42
11L.P.VS 4c *107
12Nut's WallVS 4c **221
13MisrepresentationVS 4c **244
14BluebirdE3 6a *4
15Reject (Problem)
f5 11
16Bloody Sunday (Problem)
f5 11
f4+ 17
18Far South Buttress Traverse
f5 8
 South Buttress 
20Chicken RunVS 4c *92
21PredictionVS 5a 34
22Kirbys CrackMVS 4a **4
23TemptationVS 5a *149
24OverunderHS 4b *260
25Overunder VariationVS 5a 34
26First OpportunityS 4b *272
27Scotsman's WayVS 4c *146
28Watering Can
VS 4c 23
29The PlonkaS 4a **562
30CrossoverS 4a *89
31WonderlandS 4a 67
32Gibbon's GambolE2 5c *42
33Ken's CaperHVS 4c *60
34Tiger FeetE1 5a **145
35Sunshine Superman Traverse
f5 9
 Upper Middle Section 
37Crab Walk
D 22
38Crab Walk Variation
D 5b 5
39Sunshine SupermanHVS 5a ***205
40CorbeauE1 5a *46
41Hole in OneVS 4c *83
42BogeymanVS 5a *38
 Lower Middle Section 
44Dog RoughS 103
 North Buttress 
46Cake WalkD 34
47MisunderstandingS 4a *78
48Black WallHVS 5a *95
49Easy RiderS 4a 52
HS 4b 13
51AudacityHVS 5a ***249
52Man FridayVS 4c *29
53RanadonE2 5b ***75
54CrewMVS 4c 6
55SowHS 4b 7
 Corby's Upper Crag 
57Right Wall
f4+ 4
58Broken Flakef4 5
59Nose Direct
f5 2
60Buttress Six Route 15
f5 2
61Ironstone Edge *f6A+ 3
62Fools Rush In *f6B 2
63The Overhang *f4+ 18
64Fingertip Flake *f6B ***10
65Birdie *HVS 5a 13
66Boulder, Crack and Slab *VD 10
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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