Crag Lough

Climbs 103 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 260m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Shed loads of fine single pitch routes in the Diff - VS range with good protection and rock. Very suitable for beginners. Useless in the wet, and its north facing aspect can make it very cold.

Approach notes
The access notes on the BMC website are currently a waste of time - they just say that there may or may not be a peregrine nesting and you should avoid it if there is. Not much use in deciding whether to visit in the first place! For the record, there is currently (20/6/10) a nest just left of Main Wall.

The peregrine usually nests in the vicinity of Main Wall. It'll soon make itself known if you get too close - the rest of the crag is OK to climb on.

Along the Roman Wall from Steel Rigg carpark at Twice Brewed. You can see the crag above the lough from the car park.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Northern England (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989), Northumberland (1979)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1West ChimneyM 115
2West CornerS 4a 69
3Wall and CrackD 97
4Fifth AvenueM 12
5Face RouteS 4a 160
6Original RouteS 17
7Route ThreeVS 5a *20
8Intermediate TreatmentE2 5c  
9Route OneHVS 5a **71
10Route TwoVD *47
11Impossible SlabE3 5c *3
12Impossible Buttress ObverseHVS 5a 4
13Pinnacle CrackD 21
14BracketVD **161
15Pinnacle FaceVS 4c ***239
16Pinnacle Face ObverseS 13
17Hadrian's RecessS 4a *69
18Hadrian's ButtressHS 4b ***325
19Hadrian's RibVS 4c *31
20Hadrian's ChimneyS 4b 41
21Hadrian's EastVD *53
22Crescent ClimbVD 12
23Hadrian's HighwayS 4
24Hadrian's NecklaceMVS 4b 2
25Ash Tree WallS 4a *61
26AmendmentVD 3
27Evasion GrooveHVS 5a *12
28TarzanS 4a ***205
29Easy PickingHVS 5b 2
30Tarzan's MateS 4a **89
31Cheetah TraverseS 2
32JaneMVS 4c 3
33Belfy ButtressS 4
34Sausage JuiceVS 4c 1
35Sinister CornerS 4a *23
36The Sinister SizzlerHS 4b *1
37Jezebel DirectVS 4b *40
38JezebelD ***224
39Hara KariHS 4b 9
40Wooden TopsE1 5b *12
41Spot the DogHVS 5b *4
42Raven's AreteE1 5b 2
43Raven's TowerVS 4b **66
44Cresent CracksVS 5a **26
45Sweet Violets Bitter AlmondsD 2
46The Central GirdleMVS 4c *2
47DexterityS 4a **57
48Why NotVS 5a **27
49Why Not DirectHVS 5b **23
50Chariot RaceE3 5c *4
51Block ChimneyD **23
52Ben HurE1 5c  
53Block Chimney Super DirectHVS 5a *5
54NaissanceVD 3
55CatherineVS 4c 2
56Deep GullyM 12
57Centurion's CrackS 7
58PraetorVD 5
59Doomsday CrackHS 4b 3
60GargoyleHVS 5b 1
61Punch LineHS 4b 3
62Back AlleyD **36
63TrapeziumD 6
64WaterlooHS 4b 3
65Spuggies GullyVD **35
66Abseil WallVS 5a 5
67Broken Ash ButtressVD 5
68SombreroS 2
69Chimney and MantleshelfD 3
70CastorD 4
71Y ClimbHVS 5a *15
72CrystalHVS 5a ***91
73Grad's GrooveVS 4b **36
74BrutusHVS 5b 2
75NeglectHVS 5a *9
76Right Organ PipeHS 6
77Central Organ PipeHS 5
78Left Organ PipeHVS 5a *14
79Midnight WatchHVS 5a  
80BisectorS 6
81Impossible WallE4 6b ***4
82Great ChimneyHS 4b ***54
83God Lives Under WaterE2 5b 4
84Main WallHS 4b ***217
85Main Wall Route TwoHVS 5a *9
86The Girdle TraverseVS 5a 1
87Main Wall LinkVS 5a 2
88Botany CrackS 2
89Stephenson's RocketE4 5c *1
90Overhanging ChimneyVS 5a 3
91Treetop ButtressMS 2
92SciaticaVS 4c 4
93High Level Girdle TraverseVS 5a 2
94Treetop GroovesS 3
95SensitolE1 5b  
96TitusVD 4
97HelixS **8
98Helix DirectHVS 5a 1
99Whinstone ChurchillE2 5b ***18
100Whinstone Churchill Direct StartE3 5c **2
101Hoozit's CrackS **4
102OversightMVS 4c 1
103Pocker ChimneyVD 1
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer The Mole

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I found a house key on unusual key ring yesterday at base of crag at eastern end. Does anyone know the owner?
johnjb - 31/May/15
Lots of great lines (especially in the easier grades)but some of the harder routes are, despite the 2012 clean-up noted below, pretty dirty/lichenous.
frazoir - 02/Jul/13
There will be a clean-up of the crag (removal of excess vegetation) in September 15th 2012 More details here:
The Mole - 13/Aug/12
Appears to be a variety of birds nesting in a variety of places (some not easily know until mid climb). Also appears to be some damaged nests (such as on Pinnacle Face), please be obserant of birds nesting and very careful when climbing .
josephgrimwade - 23/Apr/11
Lots of excellent VS, HVS and E1's and don't be put off by appearances e.g. Wooden Tops E15b - looks nothing but is great fun. Did my very first E1 here: Whinstone Churchill [July 1987]; in the next edition of the Guidebook it had been elevated to E2, sports a very committing & poorly protected move left at half height but is immensely satisfying, once done!
allmag - 16/Aug/07