Climbs 103
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 260m a.s.l
Faces N

Crag Lough VS © JDal

Crag features

Shed loads of fine single pitch routes in the Diff - VS range with good protection and rock. Very suitable for beginners. Useless in the wet, and its north facing aspect can make it very cold.

Approach notes

The access notes on the BMC website are currently a waste of time - they just say that there may or may not be a peregrine nesting and you should avoid it if there is. Not much use in deciding whether to visit in the first place! For the record, there is currently (20/6/10) a nest just left of Main Wall.

The peregrine usually nests in the vicinity of Main Wall. It'll soon make itself known if you get too close - the rest of the crag is OK to climb on.

Along the Roman Wall from Steel Rigg carpark at Twice Brewed. You can see the crag above the lough from the car park.


Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004)

Out of print:
I found a house key on unusual key ring yesterday at base of crag at eastern end. Does anyone know the owner?
johnjb - 31/May/15
Lots of great lines (especially in the easier grades)but some of the harder routes are, despite the 2012 clean-up noted below, pretty dirty/lichenous.
frazoir - 02/Jul/13
There will be a clean-up of the crag (removal of excess vegetation) in September 15th 2012 More details here:
The Mole - 13/Aug/12
Appears to be a variety of birds nesting in a variety of places (some not easily know until mid climb). Also appears to be some damaged nests (such as on Pinnacle Face), please be obserant of birds nesting and very careful when climbing .
josephgrimwade - 23/Apr/11
Lots of excellent VS, HVS and E1's and don't be put off by appearances e.g. Wooden Tops E15b - looks nothing but is great fun. Did my very first E1 here: Whinstone Churchill [July 1987]; in the next edition of the Guidebook it had been elevated to E2, sports a very committing & poorly protected move left at half height but is immensely satisfying, once done!
allmag - 16/Aug/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1West ChimneyM 117
2West CornerS 4a 71
3Wall and CrackD 97
4Fifth Avenue
M 12
5Face RouteS 4a 166
6Original Route
S 18
7Route ThreeVS 5a *23
8Intermediate Treatment
E2 5c  
9Route OneHVS 5a **73
10Route TwoVD *49
11Impossible SlabE3 5c *3
12Impossible Buttress Obverse
HVS 5a 4
13Pinnacle Crack
D 21
14BracketVD **162
15Pinnacle FaceVS 4c ***243
16Pinnacle Face Obverse
S 13
17Hadrian's RecessS 4a *69
18Hadrian's ButtressHS 4b ***330
19Hadrian's RibVS 4c *31
20Hadrian's ChimneyS 4b 42
21Hadrian's EastVD *54
22Crescent Climb
VD 12
23Hadrian's Highway
S 4
24Hadrian's Necklace
MVS 4b 2
25Ash Tree WallS 4a *61
VD 3
27Evasion GrooveHVS 5a *12
28TarzanS 4a ***207
29Easy Picking
HVS 5b 2
30Tarzan's MateS 4a **89
31Cheetah Traverse
S 2
MVS 4c 3
33Belfy Buttress
S 4
34Sausage JuiceVS 4c 1
35Sinister CornerS 4a *24
36The Sinister SizzlerHS 4b *1
37Jezebel DirectVS 4b *41
38JezebelD ***225
39Hara Kari
HS 4b 9
40Wooden TopsE1 5b *14
41Spot the Dog
HVS 5b *5
42Raven's Arete
E1 5b 2
43Raven's TowerVS 4b **67
44Cresent CracksVS 5a **27
45Sweet Violets Bitter Almonds
D 2
46The Central Girdle
MVS 4c *2
47DexterityS 4a **57
48Why NotVS 5a **28
49Why Not DirectHVS 5b **23
50Chariot RaceE3 5c *4
51Block ChimneyD **23
52Ben Hur
E1 5c  
53Block Chimney Super Direct
HVS 5a *5
VD 3
VS 4c 2
56Deep GullyM 12
57Centurion's Crack
S 7
VD 5
59Doomsday Crack
HS 4b 3
HVS 5b 1
61Punch Line
HS 4b 3
62Back AlleyD **36
63TrapeziumD 6
HS 4b 4
65Spuggies GullyVD **35
66Abseil Wall
VS 5a 6
67Broken Ash Buttress
VD 5
S 2
69Chimney and Mantleshelf
D 3
D 4
71Y ClimbHVS 5a *15
72CrystalHVS 5a ***92
73Grad's GrooveVS 4b **37
HVS 5b 2
75NeglectHVS 5a *10
76Right Organ Pipe
HS 6
77Central Organ Pipe
HS 5
78Left Organ PipeHVS 5a *14
79Midnight Watch
HVS 5a  
S 6
81Impossible WallE4 6b ***4
82Great ChimneyHS 4b ***55
83God Lives Under Water
E2 5b 4
84Main WallHS 4b ***219
85Main Wall Route TwoHVS 5a *9
86The Girdle Traverse
VS 5a 1
87Main Wall LinkVS 5a 2
88Botany Crack
S 2
89Stephenson's RocketE4 5c *1
90Overhanging Chimney
VS 5a 3
91Treetop Buttress
MS 2
VS 4c 4
93High Level Girdle Traverse
VS 5a 2
94Treetop Grooves
S 3
E1 5b  
VD 4
S **8
98Helix Direct
HVS 5a 1
99Whinstone ChurchillE2 5b ***19
100Whinstone Churchill Direct StartE3 5c **2
101Hoozit's Crack
S **4
MVS 4c 1
103Pocker Chimney
VD 1

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