Crag Lough

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 260m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Shed loads of fine single pitch routes in the Diff - VS range with good protection and rock. Very suitable for beginners. Useless in the wet, and its north facing aspect can make it very cold.

Access notes
The access notes on the BMC website are currently a waste of time - they just say that there may or may not be a peregrine nesting and you should avoid it if there is. Not much use in deciding whether to visit in the first place! For the record, there is currently (20/6/10) a nest just left of Main Wall.

The peregrine usually nests in the vicinity of Main Wall. It'll soon make itself known if you get too close - the rest of the crag is OK to climb on.

Along the Roman Wall from Steel Rigg carpark at Twice Brewed. You can see the crag above the lough from the car park.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northern England (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1West ChimneyM
2West CornerS
3Wall and CrackD
4Fifth AvenueM
5Face RouteS
6Original RouteS
7Route ThreeVS 5a *
8Intermediate TreatmentE2 5c
9Route OneHVS 5a **
10Route TwoVD
11Impossible SlabE3 5c
12Impossible Buttress ObverseHVS 5a
13Pinnacle CrackD
14BracketVD **
15Pinnacle FaceVS 4c ***
16Pinnacle Face ObverseS
17Hadrian's RecessS *
18Hadrian's ButtressHS ***
19Hadrian's RibVS 4c *
20Hadrian's ChimneyS
21Hadrian's EastVD
22Crescent ClimbVD
23Hadrian's HighwayS
24Hadrian's NecklaceMVS 4b
25Ash Tree WallS **
26AmendmentVD
27Evasion GrooveHVS 5a *
28TarzanVD ***
29Easy PickingHVS 5b
30Tarzan's MateVD **
31Cheetah TraverseS
32JaneMVS 4c
33Belfy ButtressS
34Sausage JuiceVS 4c
35Sinister CornerS *
36The Sinister SizzlerHS 4b *
37Jezebel DirectMVS 4b
38JezebelD ***
39Hara KariHS 4b
40Wooden TopsE1 5b **
41Spot the DogHVS 5b *
42Raven's AreteE1 5b
43Raven's TowerMVS 4b ***
44Cresent CracksVS 5a **
45Sweet Violets Bitter AlmondsD
46The Central GirdleMVS 4c *
47DexterityS **
48Why NotVS 5a **
49Why Not DirectHVS 5b **
50Chariot RaceE3 5c **
51Block ChimneyD **
52Ben HurE1 5c
53Block Chimney Super DirectHVS 5a *
54NaissanceVD
55CatherineVS 4c
56Deep GullyM
57Centurion's CrackS
58PraetorVD
59Doomsday CrackHS 4b
60GargoyleHVS 5b
61Punch LineHS 4b
62Back AlleyD *
63TrapeziumD
64WaterlooHS 4b
65Spuggies GullyVD **
66Abseil WallVS 5a
67Broken Ash ButtressVD
68SombreroS
69Chimney and MantleshelfD
70CastorD
71Y ClimbHVS 5a **
72CrystalHVS 5a ***
73Grad's GrooveMVS 4b **
74BrutusHVS 5b
75NeglectHVS 5a **
76Right Organ PipeHS
77Central Organ PipeHS
78Left Organ PipeHVS 5a **
79Midnight WatchHVS 5a
80BisectorS
81Impossible WallE4 6b ***
82Great ChimneyHS ***
83God Lives Under WaterE2 5b
84Main WallHS ***
85Main Wall Route TwoVS 5a *
86The Girdle TraverseVS 5a
87Main Wall LinkVS 5a
88Botany CrackS
89Stephenson's RocketE4 5c **
90Overhanging ChimneyVS 5a
91Treetop ButtressMS
92SciaticaVS 4c
93High Level Girdle TraverseVS 5a
94Treetop GroovesS
95SensitolE1 5b
96TitusVD
97HelixS **
98Whinstone ChurchillE2 5b ***
99Hoozit's CrackS **
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer The Mole

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Lots of great lines (especially in the easier grades)but some of the harder routes are, despite the 2012 clean-up noted below, pretty dirty/lichenous.
frazoir - 02/Jul/13
There will be a clean-up of the crag (removal of excess vegetation) in September 15th 2012 More details here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=514066
The Mole - 13/Aug/12
Appears to be a variety of birds nesting in a variety of places (some not easily know until mid climb). Also appears to be some damaged nests (such as on Pinnacle Face), please be obserant of birds nesting and very careful when climbing .
josephgrimwade - 23/Apr/11
Lots of excellent VS, HVS and E1's and don't be put off by appearances e.g. Wooden Tops E15b - looks nothing but is great fun. Did my very first E1 here: Whinstone Churchill [July 1987]; in the next edition of the Guidebook it had been elevated to E2, sports a very committing & poorly protected move left at half height but is immensely satisfying, once done!
allmag - 16/Aug/07
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 09/Sep/2013

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