Great Wanney

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 310m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Probably the most spectacular sandstone crag in Northumberland. Most of the crag is between 10 and 20 metres in height, with some bouldering opportunites.

Approach notes
Turn west of the A696 at Knowesgate. Follow this road, past a left turn and park at a forestry gate on the left. Go through the forest until the track turns right, with a narrower footpath leading straight on. Follow the footpath.

Alternatively, take the left turn, signposted to Bellingham. and park on the right just before Sweethope Loughs, shortly after a left turn. Walk north-west along a forestry footpath.

Both approaches take 20-30 minutes. Have your camera ready, if walking in from the north.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Northern England (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989), Northumberland (1979)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Left CrackMVS 4c 2
2DennisE2 6a * 
3Right CrackVS 5a 1
4PitfallE2 5b *2
5Aces HighE2 5b 2
6Marquee MetalE3 5c  
7Eastern PromiseE2 5c 1
8Eastern EcstasyE4 6a 1
9Jungle WarfareE3 6b  
10Eastern TraverseHS 4b *17
11East Buttress DirectE3 5c **5
12Thunder ThighsE5 6b * 
13Idiot WindE4 5c **9
14Great ChimneyVD ***132
15Obverse DirectHS 4c *32
16Obverse Direct (Direct Finish)HS 5a 3
17Absent FriendE5 6b ***1
18Crisis ZoneE7 6c ***2
19Endless FlightE5 6a ***20
20Endless Flight (Direct)E8 7a *** 
21Policy of TruthE6 6c * 
22Boundary CornerVD ***210
23Hawk SlabHVS 5a *30
24Dove's Nest CrackHVS 5a 2
25Patchett's PlungeE3 5b **6
26Idiots DelightHS 4c ***193
27Loony's LamentHVS 5b *3
28Great WallHVS 5b ***156
29Great Wall (Direct Finish)E5 6a **3
30KatanaE6 6b  
31Foxes HoleD 23
32Spare RibE4 6a  
33Karabiner CrackVS 5a 16
34Bilberry WallVS 4c 26
35Bilberry Wall (Direct Start)E3 6a  
36Nose ChimneyVD 31
37The Wine OHVS 5b 1
38The Last RetreatE4 6a *3
39Nosey ParkerE5 6a **4
40Central Gully EastD *58
41Central Gully WestS 4a *59
42Northumberland WallE2 5c ***70
43OsirisE3 5c 6
44SkylineE5 6b 1
45Pharaoh's FaceE3 5c 9
46Main WallS 4a **203
47Main Wall (Variation Start)MS 11
48Lichen ChimneyM *31
49Broken Blocks StaircaseM 11
50Dirty FlueM 11
51Blue AręteE4 6a  
52The BruteHVS 5a *19
53Enery's AmmerE2 5b *16
54Sweethope CrackHS 4b *90
55Disagreement KindE6 6a  
56Squeezy BillVD *55
57Rake's CrackE1 5b **107
58Rake's AręteVD *46
59Rake's Aręte (Direct Finish)E3 5c 2
60The JibberE1 5c 22
61Jacob's LadderVD **232
62Stairway to HeavenE5 6a * 
63EpitaphMVS 4b 21
64Girdle TraverseHVS 5b  
65Spider CrackMVS 4c 13
66Broken WingE3 5c 7
67Raven's NestVD **121
68Raven's Nest (Variation Finish Left)VS 5a 4
69Raven's Nest (Variation Finish Right)VS 5a  
70Thin IceE4 6a **22
71Heather SlabD 2
72Old HolbornE1 5b  
73Golden VirginiaE1 5b  
74California CrackHVS 5a *17
75Arete and GrooveVD 1
76Task ForceE3 5c  
77Golden GateMVS 4c 1
78West ChimneyD 3
79The 16˝ Pint PigE1 5b  
80War MongerE1 5b 1
81Lee's LeapMVS 4c  
82If Looks Could KillE1 5c  
83At the Witches TrialHVS 5a  
84'A' CrackVD 2
85Willing to SinE4 6a * 
86'B' CrackHVS 5a *2
87Blowin FreeE1 5b  
88Corned BeefE1 5b  
89'B' CornerD 2
90'B' AręteVD  
91Games Without FrontearsHVS 5b  
92Two Tear CrackE1 5c *3
93War Without TearsE1 5c  
94Veil of TearsHVS 5b  
95Silently Snitched from StuE1 5b  
96Rather BolderE2 6a  
97Hey Up Me DuckVS 4c 2
98Rake's ProgressVD *25
99End ChimneyM 3
100Anybody Out There?E1 5b 1
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tommy Alsop

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Awesome crag, approaching from the North is a must to appreciate the view! On top of the crag holds a 360 panoramic view, unlike more popular northumberland venues like Bowden, where the popular area (much like stanage popular) gets crowded.
David Bulley - 31/Jul/11
From the north I presume, since there weren't any woods on the way in from the south when I last went. I think coming from the south is best as there is a little car park and the path is less boggy. From the north you need to park on the roadside. There was a cutting through the forest where the path bends to the west(right) taking you to the crag, but this was always very boggy in places.
Tommy Alsop - 18/Jun/11
The walk in has reduced massively now the woods have been cut down - about 20 minutes on good tracks with no navigation difficulties. Just stay on the main path until it turns away from the crag.
alan1234 - 17/Jun/11