Climbs 101
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 310m a.s.l
Faces NW

Endless Flight E5,6a © S Lynch

Crag features

Probably the most spectacular sandstone crag in Northumberland. Most of the crag is between 10 and 20 metres in height, with some bouldering opportunites.

Approach notes

Turn west of the A696 at Knowesgate. Follow this road, past a left turn and park at a forestry gate on the left. Go through the forest until the track turns right, with a narrower footpath leading straight on. Follow the footpath.

Alternatively, take the left turn, signposted to Bellingham. and park on the right just before Sweethope Loughs, shortly after a left turn. Walk north-west along a forestry footpath.

Both approaches take 20-30 minutes. Have your camera ready, if walking in from the north.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004)

Out of print:
My new favourite crag. Surprisingly clean and dry on 2nd October (although this was during a dry spell). Excellent routes, views and atmosphere. Walking in from the north recommended - flat 20 minutes.
theomoore - 04/Oct/16
Awesome crag, approaching from the North is a must to appreciate the view! On top of the crag holds a 360 panoramic view, unlike more popular northumberland venues like Bowden, where the popular area (much like stanage popular) gets crowded.
David Bulley - 31/Jul/11
From the north I presume, since there weren't any woods on the way in from the south when I last went. I think coming from the south is best as there is a little car park and the path is less boggy. From the north you need to park on the roadside. There was a cutting through the forest where the path bends to the west(right) taking you to the crag, but this was always very boggy in places.
Tommy Alsop - 18/Jun/11
The walk in has reduced massively now the woods have been cut down - about 20 minutes on good tracks with no navigation difficulties. Just stay on the main path until it turns away from the crag.
alan1234 - 17/Jun/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Left Crack
-
MVS 4c 2
2Dennis
-
E2 6a * 
3Right Crack
-
VS 5a 1
4Pitfall
-
E2 5b *2
5Aces High
-
E2 5b 2
6Marquee Metal
-
E3 5c  
7Eastern Promise
-
E2 5c 1
8Eastern Ecstasy
-
E4 6a 1
9Jungle Warfare
-
E3 6b  
10Eastern TraverseHS 4b *18
11East Buttress DirectE3 5c **6
12Thunder ThighsE5 6b * 
13Idiot WindE4 5c **9
14Great ChimneyVD ***152
15Obverse DirectHS 4c *41
16Obverse Direct (Direct Finish)
-
HS 5a 3
17Absent FriendE5 6b ***1
18Crisis ZoneE7 6c ***2
19Endless FlightE5 6a ***39
20Endless Flight (Direct)
-
E8 7a *** 
21Policy of Truth
-
E6 6c * 
22Boundary CornerVD ***246
23Hawk SlabHVS 5a *39
24Dove's Nest CrackHVS 5a 2
25Patchett's PlungeE3 5b **7
26Idiots DelightHS 4c ***227
27Loony's LamentHVS 5b *3
28Great WallHVS 5b ***195
29Great Wall (Direct Finish)E5 6a **5
30Katana
-
E6 6b  
31Foxes HoleD 26
32Spare RibE4 6a  
33Karabiner CrackVS 5a 17
34Bilberry WallVS 4c 27
35Bilberry Wall (Direct Start)
-
E3 6a  
36Nose ChimneyVD 34
37The Wine O
-
HVS 5b 1
38The Last RetreatE4 6a *3
39Nosey ParkerE5 6a **4
40Central Gully EastD *61
41Central Gully WestS 4a *66
42Northumberland WallE2 5c ***106
43OsirisE3 5c 6
44Skyline
-
E5 6b 1
45Pharaoh's FaceE3 5c 11
46Main WallS 4a **240
47Main Wall (Variation Start)
-
MS 12
48Lichen ChimneyM *31
49Broken Blocks Staircase
-
M 11
50Dirty Flue
-
M 11
51Blue Aręte
-
E4 6a  
52The BruteHVS 5a *25
53Enery's AmmerE2 5b *17
54Sweethope CrackHS 4b *96
55Disagreement KindE6 6a  
56Squeezy BillVD *60
57Rake's CrackE1 5b **134
58Rake's AręteVD *53
59Rake's Aręte (Direct Finish)
-
E3 5c 2
60The Jibber
-
E1 5c 23
61Jacob's LadderVD **260
62Stairway to HeavenE5 6a * 
63Epitaph
-
MVS 4b 26
64Girdle TraverseHVS 5b  
65Spider Crack
-
MVS 4c 14
66Broken WingE3 5c 8
67Raven's NestVD **130
68Raven's Nest (Variation Finish Left)
-
VS 5a 5
69Raven's Nest (Variation Finish Right)
-
VS 5a 1
70Thin IceE4 6a **28
71Heather Slab
-
D 2
72Old Holborn
-
E1 5b  
73Golden VirginiaE1 5b  
74California CrackHVS 5a *19
75Arete and GrooveVD 1
76Task Force
-
E3 5c  
77Golden Gate
-
MVS 4c 1
78West Chimney
-
D 3
79The 16˝ Pint Pig
-
E1 5b  
80War Monger
-
E1 5b 1
81Lee's Leap
-
MVS 4c  
82If Looks Could Kill
-
E1 5c  
83At the Witches Trial
-
HVS 5a 1
84'A' Crack
-
VD 3
85Willing to Sin
-
E4 6a * 
86'B' Crack
-
HVS 5a *4
87Blowin Free
-
E1 5b  
88Corned Beef
-
E1 5b  
89'B' Corner
-
D 3
90'B' Aręte
-
VD  
91Games Without Frontears
-
HVS 5b  
92Two Tear Crack
-
E1 5c *3
93War Without Tears
-
E1 5c  
94Veil of Tears
-
HVS 5b  
95Silently Snitched from Stu
-
E1 5b  
96Rather Bolder
-
E2 6a  
97Hey Up Me Duck
-
VS 4c 2
98Rake's ProgressVD *25
99End Chimney
-
M 3
100Anybody Out There?
-
E1 5b 1
101Expecting to Fly *E5 6b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tommy Alsop