Wharncliffe Crags

Climbs 464 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces W

Access notes
Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Eastern Grit (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Climbs - Stanage (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE DEEPCAR CRAGS  
2Tailor's CrackVD 21
3Gallipoli RockVS 4c 24
4InsurrectionHVS 5b 8
5Face ClimbVS 4c 19
6The View From HQHVD 4a 5
7Gallipoli ChimneyM 7
8Heather GroovesD 10
 PROW ROCK  
10SteeltownE5 6b *1
11The MoireE5 6b * 
12The MoireV6 *1
13QuerpE3 6b 2
14Querp Direct StartV1 5c 3
15Outside RouteHS 4b *129
16The NoseVS 4c *97
17The Tip TestE3 6b *1
18Inside RouteD *127
19Inside EdgeHVS 5b 14
20Left Prow ChimneyD 6
21Prow to ProwS 4a 8
22Right Prow ChimneyD 7
23Green AreteVS 4c 11
24Exonian's ReturnHVS 5b 12
25ProudE1 5c 1
26Teresa's SlabHVD 4a 35
 PYLON BUTTRESS AND SCARLETT  
28Pylon CornerD 81
29Pylon CrackD 123
30Quern CrackS 4a 93
31Quern Crack Through Route/ Cave Inside RouteM 20
32Jimmy Puttrell is a LegendVS 4c 35
33Hamlet's ClimbVD *131
34Hamlet's Climb (Direct Finish)VS 4c 44
35Hamlet's TraverseVS 4b 30
36Requiem of Hamlet's GhostE1 5b *55
37The Crack of DoomS 4a *76
38DespairE2 5c 6
39Chockstone ClimbD 65
40The Crack of DelightM 13
41Earth BluesE5 6b  
42Scarlett's Wall AreteVS 4c *78
43Scarlett's ClimbHS 4a *114
44Scarlett's Edge (The Scarlett Letter)HS 4b 43
45Scarlett's ChimneyD 34
 TENSILE TEST  
47SuspenseVS 5b 121
48MelliciousE1 5c 6
49Tensile TestE1 5c *78
50Elastic Limit (direct start)V2 6a 7
51Elastic LimitE1 5c 38
52Elastic Limit (direct finish)V4 6a 4
53Forget-me-notS 4a 188
54AbairE1 5b 13
55Handover ChimneyD 5
56Handover AreteHVS 4c *138
57Handover GullyM 5
58Patricia's WallE1 5b 2
59Patricia's Wall (with arete)VS 4c 2
60Cracked AreteVD 66
61Legover AreteVS 4c 18
62Monolith Crack/Foot and BackVD 19
63MignonVS 4c 5
64Reet PalVS 5a 3
 PHOTO FINISH  
66Mantelshelf PillarHVS 5a 31
67The MantelshelfHS 4b *80
68Back and FootVD 76
69Unnamed CornerVD 9
70More Fool youHVS 5b 1
71Unnamed GrooveD 6
72QuicksilverVS 5a 3
73Rook ChimneyD 46
74Rook Chimney CavesD 5
75Letter-Box ButtressVD 34
76Post HornVS 4c *25
77Tears before Bedtime (left hand)E2 5b 1
78Tears Before BedtimeE4 6a *1
79ReveilleE4 6a 2
80Curved BallsVS 4c 7
81Letter-Box AreteVD 14
82The Girdle TraverseS 4a 14
83Alisha's SlabM 8
84Rusty Peg AreteHD 5
85BlinkersHD 8
86Easter SaturdayM 7
87StepsM 10
88StruggleS 4a 3
89Mantleshelf Slab LeftS 4a 4
90Mantelshelf Slab RightHS 4b 14
91Mystery MirrorHD 5
92Mystery RouteVD 7
93Cave ManHVD 4a 4
94Chock-a-blockHD 4
95Corner IndirectHS 4a 2
96Addy's AdditionHVS 5c 12
97Paraffin JackE1 5c 1
98The CornerVS 4c 27
99Slab and CornerHS 4a *135
100Photo FinishE1 5b *75
101Dead HeatE5 6a **7
102RenrockE1 5a *62
103Renrock ChimneyM 5
104Slabby GrooveHD 6
105Slabby StepsHD 6
 CHEESE BLOCK  
107Black WallS 4a 106
108Hard CheeseE1 5b *17
109Cheese CutD 181
110Cheese Cut CrackD 199
111Cheese BlockVS 4b *96
112Not Cheese Cut Flake/Cheese Cut GrooveM 100
113Not Cheese Cut Flake Variation (right)VD 6
114Cheese Cut Flake LeftHVD *100
115Cheese Cut FlakeVD *214
116BLAND 8
117BRAND 7
118Bilberry Side FaceHS 4c 10
119Bilberry FaceS 34
120Bilberry Face DirectHS 4b 16
121Mosh-pit ExileVS 5b 8
122Owen's DilemmaVS 4c 14
123Imaginary Boulder ClimbHS 4c 55
124Authentic Boulder ClimbVS 4c 18
125Zigzag ClimbS 4a 11
126OcumenHVS 5a 5
127Zigzag SlabM 8
128Railway WallVS 4c 52
129The Mourning AfterVS 4b 1
130Easy GrooveD 22
131Chimney GrooveVD *30
132Pinnacle AreteE1 5b 21
133Cumberland Crack/Cumberland GrooveHVD 60
134Subterranean BluesHVS 5a 7
135V GrooveVD 47
136Wheelspin WallVS 5a 5
137Wheelspin Wall RightVS 5b 5
138Cumberland TraverseS 3c 8
139Gully SideVS 5b 3
140North Side RouteHVS 5a 9
141BaalE2 5c 5
 PETE  
143Pete's SakeHVS 5b *24
144Leftover Chimney/Thin ChimneyD 27
145Overhanging ChimneyVD *31
146Ma'sonE2 5b *8
147Drum and KicksE1 5b 2
148Overhanging CrackVD *44
149The By-PassVS 4c 8
150Pass ByE1 5c 6
151En PassantE1 6b 1
152PasserineV7 6c 1
153Split ChimneyD 37
154SplitterE1 5b *1
155Split Chimney WallHVS 5b *18
156DeltaHS 4a 5
 GREAT BUTTRESS AREA  
158Omega RibVS 5a 4
159Omega ChimneyD 8
160Alpha Arete StartD 30
161Alpha CrackM *287
162Alpha Plus, Beta MinusVD *19
163Beta PlusHS 4a 13
164Beta Crack Left Hand FinishVD 2
165Beta CrackS 4a **537
166TrapezeHS 4a *30
167TrapeziumE1 5c 88
168The Great Chimney (inside route)D 38
169The Great ChimneyHD *59
170Great Chimney CrackS 4a 52
171Thrown AwayE2 5c *33
172Great Buttress AreteE1 5b ***277
173Great ButtressVS 4c *204
174Just A MinuteE1 5b *51
175RomulusVD 257
176RemusS 4a 349
177Fly WallHS 4a 208
178Fly Wall GullyM 9
179Central TraverseHS 4b 6
180Gold LeafHVS 5b *25
181Leaf ButtressVS 4c *65
182Leaf that crack aloneVS 5a 3
183Black Slab Left ChimneyD 4a 5
184Chimney and CrackHS 4b 9
185The WarpVS 4b 7
186Black Slab ChimneyHD 9
 PUTTRELLS PROGRESS  
188Black Slab LeftVD *307
189Black Slab CentreHD *395
190Black Slab RightD *316
191Black Slab Right (direct start)VD 4a 65
192Black FingerE2 5c 8
193Diamond WhiteE3 5c *1
194Anzio Breakout/PilgrimageE4 6b *1
195Puttrell's ProgressS 4a **487
196The FlueD 66
197The Flue DirectM 7
198Helping HandE1 5c *28
199Monolith CleftM 5
200As You Like ItVD 100
201Black CrackVD 64
202Beyond the PaleHVS 5b 4
203Black CapE2 6a 11
204LedgerHVD 3
205CorkerS 4b 4
206Corker wall 1HD 3
207Corker wall 2HD 3
208Corker wall 3HVD 4b 2
209Little FellowE2 5b 2
210BolsterE1 5b *7
211First Pillar Route 1HVS 5a 2
212First Pillar Route 2E1 5a 5
213Summer LightningE1 5b 6
214Flake ClimbVS 4c *24
215SchardE2 5b *9
216The ElfHVS 5a 1
217Dilemma RoofV0+ 5b 4
218Dilemma Elminate Wall (left)V0 5b 2
219DilemmaVS 4c 9
220Dilemma Elminate Wall (right)V4 6a 1
221Christa's ChimneyM 7
222Christa's TwinHD 11
223Defile LeftS 4b 21
224Brand New NothingE4 6a  
225The Blue DefileVS 4b *22
226BlasphemyE4 6b 1
227Defile ChimneyD 2
228DuplicateE1 5b *5
229GroovyHVD 7
 HIMMELSWILLEN AREA  
231SidewinderHS 4a 24
232Frigging SawE3 6a 1
233FrontsiderVS 5a 3
234HimmelswillenVS 4c ***596
235Serrated EdgeE1 5b *34
236TeufelswegD *114
237Y.M.C.A. CrackVD 28
238Dragon's HoardE6 6b **6
239Cardinal's TreasureE4 6b **5
240Banana WallE3 6a *68
241Two Tier ClimbS 4a 4
242Tower FaceHS 4b ***612
 HELL GATE  
244Down to EarthE4 5c *6
245On the AirE5 6a **9
246Journey into FreedomE7 6b * 
247Seconds OutE5 6b * 
248Pointy Block ProblemV5 6b 11
249Hell Gate GullyM 81
250News at ZenE3 5c *2
251Desolation AngelE6 6b ***21
252Hell GateVD **215
253Hell gate VariationVD 3c **3
254Gavel NeeseE2 5b **59
255LuciferE3 6a *27
256Hell Gate CrackHS 4b **299
257Joie-De-VivreE2 6b 5
258Primal VoidVS 5a *15
259Ce ne Fait RienHVS 5b 12
260Well Now It IsE2 6a 4
261WheelbraceVS 4c 9
262Green GrooveD 14
263FootlooseVS 5a 3
264PleasantryHVD 11
265ObscenityHS 4b 37
266FalkwayVS 5b 2
267AmnesiacHS 4c 1
268Amnesiac (direct finish)HVS 5b 1
269Central RouteVS 4b 11
270Bay WallE2 5b 1
271Central Route DirectE1 5c 1
272Ganto's AxeE2 5c * 
273Belle Vue chimneyM 3
274Problem BulgeE1 5b 1
 HOLLY CRACK AREA  
276Hollyoaks CrackVD 1
277Hollyoaks SlabHVS 5b 2
278HollyoaksVS 4b *4
279Holly CrackVD *14
280Holly ScoopE2 5c *3
281The ThornE1 5a 2
282Upwardly MobileE1 5a 1
283Unnamed CrackS 4b 1
284Unnamed CrankV4 6a 1
285Wienie RoastHVS 5a 2
286Hanging RockHVS 5a *3
287PicnicHS 4a 3
288Missed Me!VS 4b 1
289Crack OneD 4
290Second CrackVD 2
291Crack ThreeVD 2
292Short WallV0 5a 1
293Mad as a Mad ThingVS 4c 5
294A Moment of MadnessE1 5a 2
295CharredVD 2
296Two Tree TripS 4a 1
297Footin MouthHVS 5a 1
298Too Wide for SomeS 1
299Bring Back the BirchHVS 5a 1
300Notice Board Left Hand ButtressVS 4c 1
301Notice Board SlabHS 4a 2
302Lundy CallingE1 5b 1
303Awkward FinishVS 4b 2
304Just CommitE1 5a *1
305PentovisD 7
306Rib TicklerHS 4a 3
307Paper BirchE1 5b 1
308NardilE3 6a 2
309Body BlowE1 5b 1
 LONG JOHN'S STRIDE  
311October ClimbS 4a 27
312October Arete OriginalHVS 5a *19
313October AreteE2 5c *38
314Autumn WallE4 6a **35
315Deepcar Named DesireE5 6b * 
316EquinoxE3 5c * 
317Chockstone ChimneyVD 20
318Tiered PillarHVS 5a 1
319V-ChimneyVD 20
320V for VictoryE1 5a 1
321Waxing LyricalVS 4b 3
322The Candle SnufferHVD 19
323Long John's OrdinaryS 4a 13
324VaponaE2 5c  
325Spider CracksVS 5b 6
326Grammarian's ProgressVS 4b **55
327Grammarianís DirectHVS 5a *1
328GwynE2 5c *14
329Grammarians Face VariantE1 5a 1
330Grammarian's FaceE2 5b *18
331Long John's EliminateE2 5b *10
332CannaeE2 5b 3
333Long John's Super DirectE2 5b *1
334Long John's Short ChimneyVD 5
335ImpishV5 *10
336Imp WallV3 6a 4
337Long ChimneyD *32
338Long Chimney VariationVD *8
339InclusionHVS 5b 4
340Richard's RevengeVS 5a **149
341Lord of the DanceE3 6a  
342Face DanceE4 6a 1
343Lincoln CrackHVD *99
344Long John's AreteV4 6a 6
345Big BirdHS 4b 4
346ErganweaselV3 *2
 THE CENTRAL SECTION (UPPER TIER)  
348Harrison's Half HourVS 5b 1
349Puttrell and Watson's RouteS 4b *13
350Greenwood SideVS 5a 1
351Little WingE4 6a * 
 HOLLY ROUTE AREA  
353ChangelingE2 6a *1
354MarkE2 5b *2
355S.M.O.E2 5c  
356Holly RouteD 4
357EmmaE1 5c 2
358Chimney and CrackVD 4
359Spanish CaravanE1 5c 1
360La ManchaE2 6a 1
361ContemporaryHVS 5a *1
362Same RainHVS 5a 1
363AntiqueE2 5c 1
364TraditionalD 10
365Hanging ChimneyS 4b 9
366Gone for a BurtonVD 6
367BillD 10
368BenD 8
369Big CornerVD 6
370Mr Mojo Risin'E5 6a **1
371Easy GullyD 3
372Ridge ClimbHS 4b 2
373Just a Little BitE2 5b 1
374Rainbow CrackD 6
375Corner ClimbVD 2
376Crack and WallS 1
377Trouser BrowserHS 4a 1
378FizzVS 4b 1
379Even ChanceHVS 5b 1
380Long OddsE5 6b  
381Toss UpE5 6a * 
382Chancer WallS 4a 2
383ChancerVS 4c 2
384Chancer CrackD 2
 THE LOWER ROCKS  
386Cascade ClimbVS 5b 3
387Cascade Climb VariationHS 4a *1
388Flying AngelE1 5b 5
389Fountain of YouthE2 5b  
390Watson's CrackHS 4b *11
391Spring TideE2 6b  
392BedrockE5 6b * 
393Puttrell's CrackVD *10
394Pocket ButtressVS 4b **12
395Pocket Buttress DirectE5 6a ** 
396StinkpitE2 6a 1
397Deep ChimneyVD 10
398Deep Chimney VariationD 2
399CadenceE1 5b *3
400Penis TownE1 5c 1
401First Clean AreteHS 4b 1
402EnvyS 4a 1
403The George Formby Appreciation SocietyE2 5c  
 OUTLOOK BOULDERS  
405Slab and the Beanstalkf6A+ 2
406Sneaky Little FingersV6 5
407Pixie's AreteV0- 4c 16
408LembasV5 6b 5
409Kim SpanV6 6b 2
410Dirty Rooff6B 2
411Link UpV3 6a 4
412Hard MantelV4 6b 1
413Outllook RoofV3 8
414Pete's RouteV1 5b 5
415Hard StartV7 6b  
416Slappy MovesV3 6a 2
417Similar PocketsV3 6a 1
418PocketsV3 6b 2
419Pockets (sit start)V6 6b  
 THE BASS ROCK  
421Confidence TrickE1 5b 1
422Sleight of HandHVS 5b 1
423This Year's ModelE5 6a  
424AndrewHVS 5a 2
425HarveyS 4a 2
426Mind GameE1 5a 1
427Split DecisionE1 5b 1
428NorwandHVS 5b 3
429Byne's RouteS 4a **19
430Rossiter's RouteHVS 5b 3
431Scarlett's CrackVS 5a **18
432Bass ReliefHVS 5b 3
433Brooks' RouteHVS 5a *14
434DorenutsE1 5a 2
435Southern RouteS 4a 6
436Top HeavyVS 4c 2
 LODGE BUTTRESS AREA  
438Blu Wig Sheepf5 1
439FishboyV6 6b 1
440Jellyeyes left areteV2 6a 1
441JellyeyesV8 6c 1
442Jellyeyes (with undercut)V6 6c  
443Jellyeyes right grooveV1 5b 1
444The AreteV3 6a 1
445The Bear PitV8 6c  
446Easy Aretef3 2
447Dragon SlayerV7 6c 13
448The Skylight ClimbM *6
449The Dragon's DenV3 6a 25
450Big FlakeV0- 4b 9
451JorgeV8 6c 2
452Jorge Easyf6A+ 7
453Jorge Jrf6C 3
454Crouching TigerV7 6c 1
455Bluntedf7A 3
456Blunted (no footblock)V7 6b 4
457Blunted (high start)V4 6b 2
458Sweet ReleaseV9 6c 1
459PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 14f3 4
460PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 13f3 3
461PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 12f3 6
462Famine CracksHS 4a 3
463Ogilvie's CornerHVS 5a 4
464Ogilvie's Corner (direct start)HVS 6a 5
465Curvaceousf7A+ 1
466Middle WayE1 6a **1
467NightjarE3 5c *2
468AngusHVS 5a 1
469Lodge Buttress DirectVS 4c 5
470OpportunistE2 5c 1
471Clean Hands MickE1 5c  
472Clean Hands Mick StartV1 5c 2
473PDB Ewden Wall Problem 6f4 1
474WindfallE2 5c  
475Ewden EdgeVS 4c 4
476Ewden WallVS 4b 4
477Crazy Legs CraneV4 6b 1
478The Parson's FinchV8 6c 1
479PDB The Slab Problem 1f4 1
480PDB The Slab Problem 2f4+ 1
481PDB The Slab Problem 3f3 1
482Cockyxf6A *1
483Pass OnVS 5a 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Excellent crag for beginners and experienced climbers
danrhodes1987 - 12/May/09
Good crag. If your looking for a bit of solitude you may just find it here, except for the motocross bikes and the noise of the road.
Jonathan T - 02/May/04
Wharncliffe is a great crag and provides a wonderful evenings soloing.
Michael birkby - 04/Sep/03
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 12/Dec/2013
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Castleford, WEST YORKSHIRE
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"Located by the escalator in the xscape entertainment complex I'd seen the wall before and been intrigued, however they didn't advertise any open climbs, just..."
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