Climbs 489
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces W

Himmelswillen (VS 4c) the must-do classic route of Wharncliffe © http://Climbers.net

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
My local crag I'm slowly working my way through every route left to right
Wsdconst - 09/May/15
Excellent crag for beginners and experienced climbers
danrhodes1987 - 12/May/09
Good crag. If your looking for a bit of solitude you may just find it here, except for the motocross bikes and the noise of the road.
Jonathan T - 02/May/04
Wharncliffe is a great crag and provides a wonderful evenings soloing.
Michael birkby - 04/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Deepcar crags 
2Tailor's CrackVD 24
3Gallipoli RockVS 4c *30
4InsurrectionHVS 5b 13
5Face ClimbVS 4c 37
6The View From HQHVD 4a 11
7Gallipoli ChimneyM 8
8Heather GroovesD 12
9Sore throatV1 10
10Sore thumbV0+ 12
11Sore backV0 12
 Prow Rock Area 
13Old Crock Around the BlockV3 22
14SteeltownE5 6b *3
15The MoireE5 6b * 
16The MoireV6 *2
17QuerpE3 6b 3
18Querp Direct StartV1 4
19Outside RouteS 4a *152
20The NoseVS 4c *149
21The Tip Test
-
E3 6b *2
22Inside RouteD *165
23Inside EdgeHVS 5b 47
24Left Prow ChimneyD 8
25Prow to ProwS 4a 11
26Right Prow ChimneyD 9
27Green AreteVS 4c 14
28Exonian's ReturnHVS 5c 13
29ProudE1 5c 2
30Teresa's SlabHVD 4a 45
31Typical Wharncliffe LandingV2 9
32Pylon CornerD 101
33Pylon CrackVD 145
34Quern CrackS 4a 107
35Quern Crack Through Route/ Cave Inside Route
-
M 23
36Jimmy Puttrell is a LegendVS 4c 45
37Hamlet's ClimbHVD 4a *157
38Hamlet's Climb (Direct Finish)VS 4c 51
39Hamlet's Traverse
-
VS 4b 35
40Requiem of Hamlet's GhostE1 5b *64
41The Crack of DoomHS 4b *86
42DespairE2 5c 10
43Zig-zag ClimbD 81
44The Crack of DelightM 15
 Scarlett's Wall 
46Earth BluesE5 6b 1
47The direct finishE2 5c 1
48Scarlett's Wall AreteVS 4c *105
49Scarlett's ClimbHS 4c *146
50Scarlett's Edge (The Scarlett Letter)VS 4b 62
51Scarlett's ChimneyD 48
 Tensile Test 
53SuspenseVS 5b *146
54MelliciousE1 5c 10
55Tensile TestE1 5c *92
56Elastic Limit (direct start)
-
V2 9
57Elastic LimitE1 5c 46
58Elastic Limit (direct finish)
-
V4 7
59Forget-me-notHS 4a *229
60AbairE1 5b 14
61Blocky CornerM 5
62Handover ChimneyD 6
63Handover AreteVS 4c *165
64Handover GullyM 6
65Patricia's Wall
-
E1 5b 4
66Patricia's Wall (with arete)
-
VS 4c 2
67Cracked AreteVD 78
68Legover AreteVS 4c 22
69Monolith Crack/Foot and BackHVD 4a 22
70Mignon
-
VS 4c 5
71Reet PalVS 5a 3
 Mantelshelf Pillar 
73Mantelshelf PillarVS 4c *40
74The MantelshelfHS 4b *91
75Back and FootVD 86
 Photo Finish 
77Unnamed CornerVD 9
78Unnamed GrooveD 6
79Quicksilver
-
VS 5a 4
80More Fool youHVS 5b 3
81Rook ChimneyD *58
82Rook Chimney CavesD 7
83Letter-Box Buttress
-
VD 38
84Post HornHVS 4c *33
85Tears before Bedtime (left hand)
-
E2 5b 3
86Tears Before BedtimeE3 5c 6
87ReveilleE4 6a 6
88Curved BallsHS 4c 8
89Letter Box AreteVD 18
90The Girdle Traverse
-
S 4a 15
91Alisha's Slab
-
M 10
92Rusty Peg Arete
-
HD 7
93Blinkers
-
HD 9
94Easter Saturday
-
M 8
95Steps
-
M 11
96Struggle
-
S 4a 3
97Mantleshelf Slab Left
-
S 4a 6
98Mantelshelf Slab RightS 4a 18
99Mystery Mirror
-
HD 6
100Mystery Route
-
VD 8
101Cave Man
-
HVD 4a 4
102Chock-a-block
-
HD 4
103Corner Indirect
-
HS 4a 2
104Addy's AdditionHVS 5c 13
105Paraffin Jack
-
E1 5c 2
106The CornerVS 5a 36
107Slab and CornerHS 4b *159
108Photo FinishE1 5b *91
109Dead HeatE5 6a *10
110RenrockE1 5a *74
111Renrock ChimneyM 5
112Slabby Groove
-
HD 6
113Slabby Steps
-
HD 6
 Cheese Block Area 
115Black WallHS 4b *115
116Hard CheeseE1 5b 21
117Cheese CutD *224
118Cheese Cut CrackVD *243
119Cheese BlockHS 4b *117
120Not Cheese Cut Flake/Cheese Cut GrooveM 126
121Not Cheese Cut Flake Variation (right)
-
VD 10
122Cheese Cut Flake LeftHVD *128
123Cheese Cut FlakeHVD *267
124BLAN
-
D 8
125BRAN
-
D 7
126Bilberry Side Face
-
HS 4c 11
127Bilberry Face
-
S 38
128Bilberry Face Direct
-
HS 4b 20
129Mosh-pit ExileVS 5b 9
130Owen's DilemmaHVS 4c 17
131Imaginary Boulder ClimbVS 4c *68
132Authentic Boulder Climb
-
VS 4c 21
133Zigzag Climb
-
S 4a 12
134Ocumen
-
HVS 5a 6
135Zigzag Slab
-
M 8
 Pete's Sake 
137Railway WallVS 4c *72
138Easy GrooveD 30
139Chimney GrooveVD *35
140Pinnacle AreteE1 5b *24
141Cumberland Crack/Cumberland GrooveVD *72
142Subterranean Blues
-
HVS 5a 10
143V GrooveVD 56
144Wheelspin WallVS 5a 6
145Wheelspin Wall RightVS 5b 6
146Cumberland TraverseS 3c 8
147Gully SideVS 5b 4
148North Side RouteHVS 5a 15
149BaalE2 5c 7
150Pete's SakeE1 5b *38
151Leftover Chimney/Thin ChimneyVD *35
152Overhanging ChimneyHVD 4a 37
153Ma'sonE2 5b 11
154Drums and KicksHVS 5b 3
155Overhanging CrackS 4b *55
156The By-PassVS 4c 9
157Pass ByHVS 5b 9
158En PassantE1 6b 1
159Passerine
-
V7 1
160Split ChimneyVD 48
161SplitterE1 5b *5
162Split Chimney WallHVS 5b *29
163Delta
-
HS 4a 6
 Great Buttress 
165Omega Rib
-
VS 5a 5
166Omega Chimney
-
D 9
167Alpha Arete StartD 33
168Alpha CrackD *340
169Alpha Plus, Beta MinusVD *22
170Beta PlusHS 4a 13
171Beta Crack Left Hand FinishVD 9
172Beta CrackS 4a **657
173TrapezeHS 4b *36
174TrapeziumE1 5b *114
175The Great Chimney (inside route)
-
D 44
176The Great ChimneyD *68
177Great Chimney CrackS 4a 68
178Thrown AwayE2 5c *41
179Great Buttress AreteE1 5b ***370
180Great ButtressVS 4c *236
181Just A MinuteE1 5b *73
182RomulusVD *300
183RemusS 4a *415
184Fly WallHS 4a 249
185Fly Wall GullyM 10
186Central Traverse
-
HS 4b 10
187Gold LeafHVS 5b *30
188Leaf ButtressVS 4c *76
189Leaf that crack aloneVS 5a 5
190Black Slab Left ChimneyD 4a 5
191Chimney and Crack
-
HS 4b 10
192The Warp
-
VS 4b 8
 Puttrell's Progress 
194Black Slab Chimney
-
HD 10
195Black Slab LeftHVD 4a *378
196Black Slab CentreVD *481
197Black Slab RightM **395
198Black Slab Right (direct start)
-
VD 4a 83
199Black FingerE3 5c 9
200Diamond WhiteE3 5c 1
201Anzio Breakout/PilgrimageE5 6b *1
202Puttrell's ProgressS 4a **620
203The FlueHVD *84
204The Flue DirectM 10
205Helping HandE1 5c *35
206Monolith CleftM 5
207As You Like ItVD *118
208Black CrackHVD *73
209Beyond the Pale
-
HVS 5b 5
210Black CapE2 6a 13
211LedgerHVD 3
212CorkerS 4b 4
213Corker wall 1HD 3
214Corker wall 2HD 3
215Corker wall 3HVD 4b 2
 Twin Pillars 
217Little FellowE2 5b 5
218BolsterE1 5b *12
219First Pillar Route 1
-
HVS 5a 4
220First Pillar Route 2E1 5a 9
221Summer LightningE1 5b 12
222Flake ClimbVS 4c *34
223SchardE2 5b *10
224The ElfHVS 5a 1
 The Blue Defile 
226Dilemma Roof
-
V0+ 4
227Dilemma Elminate Wall (left)V0 2
228DilemmaVS 4c 11
229Dilemma Elminate Wall (right)V4 2
230Christa's ChimneyM 7
231Christa's Twin
-
HD 14
232Defile LeftHS 4b 24
233Brand New NothingE4 6a 1
234The Blue DefileVS 4b **34
235BlasphemyE4 6b *3
236Defile ChimneyD 3
237DuplicateE1 5b *6
238Groovy
-
HVD 7
 Himmelswillen 
240SidewinderHS 4b 32
241Frigging SawE3 6a 1
242FrontsiderVS 5a 4
243HimmelswillenVS 4c ***818
244Serrated EdgeE1 5b *41
245TeufelswegD *131
246Y.M.C.A. CrackVD *38
247Dragon's HoardE6 6b *6
248Cardinal's TreasureE4 6b *5
249Banana WallE3 6a **87
250The Tall and The Short of ItE4 6a 5
251Two Tier Climb
-
S 4a 5
 Hell Gate Area 
253Tower FaceHS 4b ***804
254Down to EarthE4 5c *8
255On the AirE5 6a **10
256Journey into FreedomE7 6b * 
257Seconds OutE5 6b *1
258Pointy Block Problem
-
V5 14
259Hell Gate GullyM *99
260News at ZenE3 5c *3
261Desolation AngelE6 6b ***29
262Hell GateVD **285
263Hell gate VariationVD 3c **2
264Gavel NeeseE2 5b *67
265LuciferE2 5c *30
266Hell Gate CrackHS 4b **392
267Joie-De-VivreHVS 5c 8
268Primal VoidHVS 5a *18
269Ce ne Fait RienHVS 5b *14
270Well Now It IsE2 6a 5
271WheelbraceVS 4c 13
272Green GrooveD 20
273Footloose
-
VS 5a 5
274Pleasantry
-
HVD 13
275ObscenityHS 4b 49
276Falkway
-
VS 5b 3
277Amnesiac
-
HS 4c 1
278Amnesiac (direct finish)
-
HVS 5b 1
279Central Route DirectE1 5c 2
280Central Route
-
VS 4b 14
281Central Route (direct finish)HVS 5a 1
282Bay Wall
-
E2 5b 2
283Ganto's Axe
-
E2 5c *1
284Belle Vue chimneyM 7
285Problem Bulge
-
E1 5b 1
286Butterfly crackV5 1
 Holly Crack area 
288Hollyoaks Crack
-
VD 1
289Hollyoaks SlabHVS 5b 2
290Hollyoaks
-
VS 4b *5
291Holly CrackVD *16
292Holly ScoopE2 5c *4
293The Thorn
-
E1 5a 2
294Upwardly Mobile
-
E1 5a 1
295Unnamed Crack
-
S 4b 2
296Unnamed Crank
-
V4 1
297Wienie RoastHVS 5a 2
298Hanging RockHVS 5a *4
299Picnic
-
HS 4a 3
300Missed Me!
-
VS 4b 4
301Crack One
-
D 5
302Second Crack
-
VD 2
303Crack Three
-
VD 4
304Short Wall
-
V0 1
305Mad as a Mad Thing
-
VS 4c 7
306A Moment of Madness
-
E1 5a 2
307Charred
-
VD 2
308Two Tree Trip
-
S 4a 2
309Footin Mouth
-
HVS 5a 1
310Too Wide for Some
-
S 1
311Bring Back the Birch
-
HVS 5a 1
312Notice Board Left Hand Buttress
-
VS 4c 1
313Notice Board Slab
-
HS 4a 2
314Lundy Calling
-
E1 5b 1
315Awkward Finish
-
VS 4b 2
316Just Commit
-
E1 5a *1
317Pentovis
-
D 7
318Rib Tickler
-
HS 4a 3
319Paper Birch
-
E1 5b 2
320Nardil
-
E3 6a 4
321Body BlowE1 5b 1
 Long John's stride 
323October ClimbS 4a 30
324October Arete OriginalHVS 5a *26
325October AreteE2 5c **43
326Autumn WallE4 6a ***49
327Deepcar Named DesireE5 6b 1
328EquinoxE3 6a *3
329Chockstone ChimneyVD *28
330Tiered Pillar
-
HVS 5a 3
331V-ChimneyVD 23
332V for Victory
-
E1 5a 1
333Waxing Lyrical
-
VS 4b 5
334The Candle SnufferS 4b 23
335Long John's OrdinaryS 4a *15
336Vapona
-
E2 5c 1
337Spider CracksVS 5a 6
338Grammarian's ProgressVS 4c **63
339Grammarianís DirectHVS 5a *1
340GwynE3 5c *15
341Grammarians Face VariantE2 5b **1
342Grammarian's FaceE1 5b *19
343Long John's EliminateE2 5b **17
344CannaeE2 5b *4
345Long John's Super DirectE3 5c *2
346Long John's Short Chimney
-
VD 6
347Impishf6C *12
348Imp Wallf6A+ 7
349Long ChimneyD *38
350Long Chimney Variation
-
VD *9
351InclusionE1 5b *7
352Richard's RevengeVS 4c **181
353Lord of the Dance
-
E3 6a  
354Face DanceE4 6a 3
355Lincoln CrackHVD 4a **118
356Long John's Aretef6B *6
357Big Bird
-
HS 4b 4
358ErganweaselV3 *3
 The central Section (upper tier) 
360I Like It DirtyV2 1
361Harrison's Half HourVS 5b 2
362Puttrell and Watson's RouteS 4b *17
363Greenwood Side
-
VS 5a 1
364Little Wing
-
E4 6a *2
 Holly Route area 
366ChangelingE2 6a *1
367S.M.O.E2 5c 3
368MarkE2 5b *2
369Holly RouteD 6
370EmmaE1 5c 2
371Chimney and CrackVD 5
372La ManchaE2 6a 1
373Spanish CaravanE1 5c 1
374Same RainHVS 5a 1
375ContemporaryHVS 5a *1
376AntiqueE2 5c 2
377TraditionalD 10
378Hanging ChimneyS 4b 9
379Gone for a BurtonVD *7
380BillD 10
381BenD 8
382Big CornerVD 7
383Mr Mojo Risin'E5 6a **1
384Easy GullyD 3
385Ridge ClimbHS 4b 2
386Just a Little BitE2 5b 1
387Rainbow Crack
-
D 6
388Corner Climb
-
VD 2
389Crack and Wall
-
S 1
390Trouser Browser
-
HS 4a 1
391Fizz
-
VS 4b 1
392Even Chance
-
HVS 5b 1
393Long Odds
-
E5 6b  
394Toss Up
-
E5 6a * 
395Chancer Wall
-
S 4a 2
396Chancer
-
VS 4c 2
397Chancer Crack
-
D 2
 Far South 
 Cascade Buttress 
400Cascade ClimbVS 5b *3
401Cascade Climb VariationHS 4a *2
402Flying AngelE1 5b *7
403Fountain of Youth
-
E2 5b  
404Watson's CrackVS 4c *13
405Spring TideE2 6b 1
406BedrockE6 6b  
407Puttrell's CrackVD 10
408Pocket Buttress DirectE5 6a *1
409Pocket ButtressVS 4b *15
410StinkpitE2 6a 1
411Deep ChimneyD *10
412Deep Chimney VariationD 2
413CadenceE1 5b *3
414Penis Town
-
E1 5c 1
415First Clean Arete
-
HS 4b 1
416Envy
-
S 4a 1
417The George Formby Appreciation Society
-
E2 5c  
 Outlook Boulders 
419Slab and the Beanstalkf6A+ 2
420Sneaky Little FingersV6 6
421Pixie's Arete
-
V0- 16
422Lembas
-
V5 5
423Kim Span
-
V6 2
424Dirty Rooff6B 2
425Link Up
-
V3 4
426Hard Mantel
-
V4 1
427Outllook RoofV3 8
428Pete's Route
-
V1 5
429Hard StartV7  
430Slappy MovesV3 2
431Similar PocketsV3 1
432PocketsV3 2
433Pockets (sit start)
-
V6  
 the bass rock 
435Confidence Trick
-
E1 5b 1
436Sleight of Hand
-
HVS 5b 1
437This Year's Model
-
E5 6a  
438Andrew
-
HVS 5a 2
439Harvey
-
S 4a 2
440Mind Game
-
E1 5a 2
441Split Decision
-
E1 5b 1
442Split Decision lefthand finishE1 5c  
443Norwand
-
HVS 5b 3
444Byne's RouteS 4a **23
445Rossiter's RouteHVS 5b 3
446Scarlett's CrackVS 5a *25
447Bass Relief
-
HVS 5b 3
448Brooks' RouteHVS 5a *17
449Dorenuts
-
E1 5a 2
450Southern Route
-
S 4a 6
451Top Heavy
-
VS 4c 2
 Lodge Buttresses 
453Blu Wig Sheep
-
f5 1
454Fishboy
-
V6 1
455Jellyeyes left arete
-
V2 1
456Jellyeyes
-
V8 1
457Jellyeyes (with undercut)
-
V6  
458Jellyeyes right groove
-
V1 1
459The Arete
-
V3 1
460The Bear Pit
-
V8  
461Easy Aretef3 2
462Dragon SlayerV7 14
463The Skylight ClimbM *6
464The Dragon's DenV3 26
465Big FlakeV0- 9
466JorgeV8 2
467Jorge Easy
-
f6A+ 7
468Jorge Jrf6C 3
469Crouching TigerV7 1
470Bluntedf7A 3
471Blunted (no footblock)V7 4
472Blunted (high start)
-
V4 2
473Sweet ReleaseV9 1
474PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 14
-
f3 4
475PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 13
-
f3 3
476PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 12
-
f3 6
477Famine Cracks
-
HS 4a 3
478Ogilvie's CornerHVS 5c *6
479Ogilvie's Directf6B *5
480Curvaceousf7A+ *1
481Middle Way
-
E1 6a **1
482NightjarE3 5c *2
483Angus
-
HVS 5a 1
484Lodge Buttress DirectVS 4b *7
485Opportunist
-
E2 5c 1
 Ewden Buttress 
487Clean Hands Mick
-
E1 5c  
488Clean Hands Mick Startf6A+ 2
489WindfallE2 5c *1
490PDB 6. Windfall startf5 1
491Ewden EdgeVS 4c *4
492Ewden WallVS 4c *4
493Crazy Legs Crane
-
V4 1
494The Parson's Finch
-
V8 2
495PDB The Slab Problem 1
-
f4 1
496PDB The Slab Problem 2
-
f4+ 1
497PDB The Slab Problem 3
-
f3 1
498Cockyxf6A *1
499Pass OnVS 5a 1
500One MoreV1 1
501Ladder Climb LeftD 2
502Ladder ClimbD 2
503Ladder Chimney LeftM 3
504BiffoS 4a 2
505Ladder Chimney RightM 2
506Wobbly BlockVD 3c 3
507Wobbly Block LeftD 2
508Biffo ASreteM 2
509Beat the Barn DoorE1 5b 2
510Birch Tree RibS 4a 2
511Dinosaur Egg ArÍteV2 **2
512Dinosaur Egg ArÍte sit startV3+ *1
513Eternally Doomed OptimistV3 2

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