Altitude 80m a.s.l
Franco's Wall, just before the rain got me © EBclimbing
Good Bouldering on the White and Black walls, along with some higher routes. The Alcove offers climbing up to about 12 metres. A good 'Super highball Venue' only a minute from the road and a mile from Hutton-le-hole..
*BOULDERING GRADING AND STARING* Many of the problems were origionally over-graded and hence some of the newer problems are also probably soft for the grade. Many of the grades have since been tweaked to keep inline with other areas, but grades may be found to still be soft....Even more confusingly, the very modern problems are likely to bit stiff for the grade as they are deliberately un-soft... (2010) Consensus has improved the situation since that was written and the grading is thought to be spot on (Aug 2011)
STARRING- Most problems are eliminates, based on a peak limestone style system. The lines are never going to be superb, as the obvious holds are avoided, so instead the stars are offered for quality of moves and holds and sustained nature.
Lots of data constantly appearing for this crag from many different sources, so this database may lag behind a bit... Email me if you have issues- franco cookson.
Wander down path. See Climbonline.co.uk
|The Trad climbing here offers nothing special, but is a useful crag for those from the south moors, or perhaps the climber seeking shelter from a windy or rainy blakey ridge. The bouldering on the other hand is nothing short of superb- once one gets one's head around the eliminate climbing style. Some excellent moves at all grades above font 6a and one of my favourite venues. There is endless potential for increasingly hard eliminates and although often sharp, the holds are beautiful. It takes a real local to accurately predict whether the crag is likely to be dry- generally speaking, if it's rained for less than 2 days after a long dry spell, then it will be dry, if it's been on off rain followed by strong winds it will be dry, if it's rained a lot for a long time then it will be wet. Even in a wet state there is often a dry patch to mess about on.|
Franco Cookson - 06/Sep/11
|good all weather crag. some good easier climbs in the alcove. the best being crystal wall, right uncorquerable, monograptus and stepped arete/mumble beginings. The bouldering eliminates on the black wall are really good and quite steep, ideal for finger strength. There are also a few test peices at aroung E3/E4 and some good choss practice if your that way inclined. Most amusing route has to be 'the gutter' though.........|
Sam Marks - 23/Jun/11
|Having just spent a sunny afternoon at the crag which is my local crag I've come to the conclusion that this is a great venue for soloing, I'm not so sure I'd bother bringing my rack along with me again next time, couple of pads did us just fine today.|
EBclimbing - 12/Aug/09