Climbs 265
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces all

Joe Wilson on the first ascent of Bloodsport LH © Katie Gamble

Crag features

Primarily a bouldering venue, and a bloody good one at that. There are hundreds of problems strewn all over the moor, with easy stuff to mega desperates. The routes are all on the Southern Escarpment (the bit visible from the main road).

Approach notes

From Belsay on the A696, head for Bolam Lakes. Go past the lake car park on the right to a crossroads, turn left along an unmetalled road past a row of cottages. Park by the wall on the moor just over the cattle grid. Be sure to keep your speed down.

*CAUTION* Climbed here today (23/08/13) and on the way back to the cars found a very big BULL in the fields with the cows.
DaveB_86 - 23/Aug/13
Can be very wet and boggy on walk in. Mind the cattle they can be very easily spooked
Fluvial - 06/Aug/12
Extremely sad.
Ian Jones - 09/Apr/12
Was there today and parked at the second 'limited' parking spot closest to the pond. Arrived back to find a very polite letter explaining that parking here now should not happen and that we should all use the top parking area after the first cattle grid. Letter said information had been posted on 'the website' which i assume is UKbouldering. Here's me sharing it with all of you. TLDR; Park beside wall at first cattle grid and walk down. Pond area is about to be worked on.
sneaks - 19/Apr/11
Amazing place to climb. Lots of good problems spread out over quite a large area. Only real issue is that people seem to climb mainly on 3 or 4 boulders/walls so most of the place is dirty and needs more traffic.
pigeonjim - 26/Aug/10
The rock is from the same deposit as Rothley, It's called Ingoe Grit. Whoever said there was no grit in Northumberland should look up Jack Rock.
JDal - 17/May/10
I've seen it written up as a type of gritstone, as well as a coarse sandstone. It's completely different in texture from the Fell Sandstone of Bowden etc, so I thought it worth calling it gritstone just to made the difference clear. I can change it if it bothers you!
Stuart S - 06/Mar/09
Gritstone!?!?! There isnt any in Northumberland! This Crag is Sandstone
benj_d - 05/Mar/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 -----SHAFTOE NORTH---- 
 THE RIFT 
3First Problemf6A 4
4Problem 5
-
f5 11
5Problem 6f6A 4
6Problem 7f5+ 4
7Problem 8f6A 2
8Problem 10f6C 1
9The Second Nosef6B 2
 THE PUDDING STONE 
11Problem 1f4+ 15
12Problem 2
-
f5 22
13Pudding Fillerf4 3
14Problem 3f6C 9
 NORTH BUTTRESS 
16Short Wall
-
f4 17
17Merry Dancersf6A 7
18Undercut Arete
-
f6B 1
19Mini Powerf6C 7
20Aurora Borealisf4 2
21Northern Frightsf5+ 2
 ARETE LAND, HALLIONS ROCKS 
23Problem 10f5 44
24Pianof7B 3
25Fingersf7A 2
26The Long Reach
-
f6A 25
27The Long Reach SDSf7B 9
28Slapperf7A 135
29Clamperf7A+ 18
30Corner Crack
-
f4+ 34
31Problem 18f5 22
32Problem 19f5+ 16
33Classic Arete
-
f6A 75
34Shaftoe Blocf6C 2
35Problem 21f5+ 44
36Problem 22f5+ 30
37Problem 23f6A+ 23
38Problem 24f5+ 11
 SIX PACK 
40Six Pack Circuitf6B 7
41Lip Tripf6A+ 9
42Alexisf6B+ 14
 PUNISHMENT BLOCK 
44Green Line
-
f4+ 8
45Problem 29
-
f4 16
46Problem 30
-
f4 14
47Problem 32
-
f5+ 12
 DOLPHIN 
49Problem 36f6C 4
 THE INCLINED SLAB 
51Problem 38
-
f4+ 22
 GRINDSTONE 
 JUBILEE BOULDER 
 -----CENTRAL AREA----- 
 SALTER'S NICK 
56In the Nickf6A+ 3
57Sharp Arete
-
f6A 12
58Salt n Pepperf5+ 9
59Salt n Pepper Right Hand Sidef6A 4
60'S' Crack
-
f4 25
61Central Traversef6C 4
62Right-hand Traversef5+ 4
63Problem 10f5+ 5
64Small Boulder
-
f5 11
65Small Fryf4+ 2
66Syco Sheepf6C *4
67Full Nettle Jacketf5+ 1
68Finger Bowl
-
f4 9
69Chicken Ed
-
f4+ 6
 LOST ARROWHEAD LOWER BOULDER 
71Problem 17
-
f4+ 38
72Problem 18
-
f5+ 32
73Problem 19
-
f5+ 32
74Problem 20
-
f5 15
75Problem 20af6A+ 3
76Sunshowerf6A 7
77Rainshowerf6B 6
 LOST ARROWHEAD CAVE 
79Lost Slabf4 32
80Lost Groove
-
f4 41
81Axe Head
-
f6A 53
82Stone Age Manf7A+ 6
83Lost Arrowheadf6C 14
84Neolithic Man
-
f6B 23
85Cave Dwellerf7A+ 20
 CRUCIFIX BOULDER 
87Christmas Timef4 3
88Problem 31f6A 1
89Crucifix Crackf5 13
90Problem 33f5 3
91Problem 34f6C 2
 OYSTER ROCK (WALL BOULDER) 
 BOULDER IN THE WOODS 
 GATEWAY BUTTRESSES 
95Mrs Mops Problem 40f4 29
96Mrs Mops Problem 41f4 35
97Mrs Mops Problem 42f4 32
98Mrs Mops Problem 43f4 24
 THE RAVINE 
100Shallow Groove
-
f4 68
101Pocket Wall (problem 45)
-
f4 67
102Side Wall
-
f4 65
103Hidden Crackf6A 12
104Young's Aretef6B 8
105Easy Wall
-
f4 39
106Crack One
-
f5 47
107No Need for Speedf6C+ 4
108Smooth Wallf7A 23
109Crack Two
-
f4 69
110Buford T Justicef6C+ 42
111Pocket Wall (problem 53)
-
f5+ 52
112Problem 54f5+ 26
113Way Cool
-
f5 71
114Problem 56
-
f6A 30
115Problem 57
-
f5 32
116Low Level Traverse
-
f4 15
117Mid Level Traverse
-
f4+ 12
 THE BIG BIRCH 
119Problem 61
-
f4+ 3
120Problem 63f4 3
121The Mantelf7A+ 3
 -----WESTERN EDGES----- 
 FONT BOULDER 
124Bleaustardf6A+ 25
125Purely Belterf8A **15
126Suprising Solutionf7A 69
127Font Centref7A 13
128Incipient Crackf6A 61
129Incipient Crack (sit start)f7A ***83
130Problem 5f6A 32
131Problem 5 Sit Startf6B 14
132Short Crack
-
f4+ 46
133Little Prowf6A 27
134Cuvier
-
f6A 37
135Final Prow
-
f4+ 33
136Font Traversef6C 46
137Reverse Traversef6B 6
 THE BUSINESS 
139Problem 14f7A 7
 STOLEN FROM IVOR 
 MINI OBELISK 
142Cliff's Slab
-
f4 18
 ASTRO 
 HAIR LIP 
 SMITH'S ROCKS 
146The Lipf7A 2
147The Scoop
-
f6B 23
148The Mask
-
f6C+ 23
149The Crackf4 15
150Milk and Cookiesf6A+ 11
151Knee Crackerf6A+ 7
152The Bunkerf6B 8
153The Edge
-
f6A 15
154Weasels Ripped my Fleshf6C 3
155Classic Arete (standing start)
-
f4 32
156Classic Arete (sit start)
-
f6B 18
157Clampf5+ **9
158City of Sand
-
f6B 8
159Problem 38
-
f6C 9
160Pebble Slabf6C 7
161Proposalf6C 17
 TURTLE ROCK 
163Turtle's Flipper Left-Hand
-
f5 12
164Turtle's Flipper Right-Hand
-
f5 10
165Underbelly
-
f5 15
166Soft Centref6A 29
167The Bossf7B **19
168Blood Sportf8A+ 1
169Bloodsport Left Hand Finishf8B+ 1
170Hard Shellf6C 7
171Darkness Beckons
-
f6A 37
 NEB BOULDER 
173Power is Nothing Without Controlf7C ***5
174Crease Classic
-
f6B 37
175Broken Hearts Are For Assholesf7A+ 48
176The Neb Roof
-
f6C 95
177The Originalf6A **42
178Perverse Classicf6C *7
179Problem 58
-
f6A 12
180Problem 59
-
f5+ 10
181Sloper Masterclassf5+ ***129
182Problem 61
-
f6A 14
183Problem 62
-
f6B 35
184Aside
-
f6B 27
 -----SHAFTOE SUMMIT----- 
 DEAD PINE BUTTRESS 
187The Alligatorf5+ 2
188The Alligator Right-Handf6B 1
189Clueless Caiman Huntersf6A+ 1
190Living Fossilf6A 1
191Lightning Never Strikes Twicef5 2
192Problem 10
-
f5+ 3
193The Cowf6A  
 DISHPAN ALLEY 
195East Wall
-
f5+ 24
196Arete
-
f6A 20
197Problem 18
-
f4 38
198Problem 19f4+ 27
199Problem 20f5+ *16
200Problem 21
-
f5+ 25
201Problem 22
-
f5+ 39
202Rising Damp
-
f6B 22
203Corner
-
f4+ 26
204Mantel Madnessf6C ***24
205Problem 29
-
f5+ 12
206Blunt Nose
-
f6A+ 8
207Problem 31
-
f5+ 10
208Problem 32
-
f4 16
 MAIN BUTTRESS 
210Problem 34 (standing start)
-
f5+ 7
211Viagra Plus
-
f6B+ 21
212Viagra Plus Sit Startf7B 29
213Sloppy Ploppinf6C 5
214Sloppy Ploppin S.Sf7C+ 1
215Central Wallf7B+ 3
216Main Wall
-
f6C 7
217Main Wall Sit Startf7B+ **16
218Timmy Tip Toesf7A+ *28
219Magic Fluting
-
f5 74
 FLUTED WALL 
221The Stingf6A+ 5
222Buzzingf6C 7
223Buzzing (sit start)f7A **6
 THE COB 
225Problem 48
-
f5+ 18
226Cob Arete
-
f5 90
227Problem 50
-
f6A 32
228Hound Dogf7A+ 12
229Killer Queenf6C 4
230Hip Hop
-
f6A 32
231Honeycomb Wall Traverse
-
f6C 40
232The Linkf6A 3
 SHIP'S BAIT CABIN 
234Problem 58f4 58
235Problem 59f4 51
236Problem 60f5 51
237The Thug
-
f5+ 31
238The Technician
-
f5+ 27
239Lip Traverse
-
f4 19
240Port
-
f5+ 49
241Galley Wall (standing start)
-
f4+ 50
242Galley Wall (sit start)
-
f6A *32
243Wolf
-
f6B 19
244Starboard
-
f5 60
245Bow Wave
-
f6A 35
246Lost Crack (standing start)
-
f5 17
247Lost Crack (sit start)
-
f5+ 21
 SHAFTOE GRANGE FARM BUTTRESSES 
249Cow Patf5+ 4
 -----SHAFTOE SOUTH----- 
 RUDDER'S BOULDERS 
252Rudyard
-
f5+ 3
 THE SEADOG BOULDER 
 PUNCH BOWL 
255Black Puddingf7A *1
256Problem 7f6C 1
257Duvel 8.5%f7A 14
258Problem 10f5+ 13
259Canine
-
f6A 10
260Problem 12f6C 1
 CAVE BUTTRESS 
262Flake Crackf4+ 10
263Pocket Rocketf7A 24
264The Wallf4+ 3
 LITTLE DAL BUTTRESS 
266The Scoop
-
f4 2
267The Wallf6B 2
268Little Crackf4 1
269Little Johnf5 1
270Slab Arete
-
f4 4
271Little and Oftenf6B+ *1
272Problem 26
-
f4+ 3
 LONG WALL 
2743 Fingers, 1 Pebble.f6C 1
275Wickermanf6B 2
276Wickerman SSf6B+ 2
277Wicker aretef6C 2
278Wickerman Warm Upf4 1
 MINISCULE MATTERHORN 
280Problem 28
-
f4 8
281Problem 29
-
f4 6
 Cafe Noir 
283Cafe NoirE4 5c **1
 CENTRAL ALCOVE 
285Problem 34
-
f4 5
286Butch Catch-Me and the Campus Board Kidf6C+ 5
 TWO TIER BOULDER 
288Tears in Heavenf5+ 5
289River of Tearsf7B+ *1
290Tears on the Dance Floorf6B+ 2
291Edge of Sanityf5 3
 CYCLOPS BUTTRESS 
293Green Wallf4 9
294Left Arete
-
f4+ 10
295Cyclops Wallf5 6
296Right Aretef5 4
297The Scoopf4+ 3
298Side Wallf4+ 3
 HALFWAY HOUSE 
 ROADSIDE BOULDER 
301The lip sit startf7A+ 2
302Spinal Tapf7C **3
303Slim Shady (standing start)
-
f6A 51
304Slim shady (sit start)f7A **63
305Real Slim Shadyf7A+ ***21
306Real Slim Shady (Left Hand)f7B ***3
307Intermittent Crackf5+ 36
308Not to be Taken Awayf5 41
309Roadside Wallf7C+ 1
310Roadside Aretef5 26
311Problem 61f4 2
312Problem 63
-
f4 6
313Problem 12
-
f6B 1
314Branch Leftf6A 1
315Branch Rightf6B 1
316Branch Right SDSf6C 1
317darkness beckons SDS (into the light)f6C *1
318Pocket Wall *
-
f5+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer rodge