Climbs 268
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces all

Joe Wilson on the first ascent of Bloodsport LH © Katie Gamble

Crag features

Primarily a bouldering venue, and a bloody good one at that. There are hundreds of problems strewn all over the moor, with easy stuff to mega desperates. The routes are all on the Southern Escarpment (the bit visible from the main road).

Approach notes

From Belsay on the A696, head for Bolam Lakes. Go past the lake car park on the right to a crossroads, turn left along an unmetalled road past a row of cottages. Park by the wall on the moor just over the cattle grid. Be sure to keep your speed down.

*CAUTION* Climbed here today (23/08/13) and on the way back to the cars found a very big BULL in the fields with the cows.
DaveB_86 - 23/Aug/13
Can be very wet and boggy on walk in. Mind the cattle they can be very easily spooked
Fluvial - 06/Aug/12
Extremely sad.
Ian Jones - 09/Apr/12
Was there today and parked at the second 'limited' parking spot closest to the pond. Arrived back to find a very polite letter explaining that parking here now should not happen and that we should all use the top parking area after the first cattle grid. Letter said information had been posted on 'the website' which i assume is UKbouldering. Here's me sharing it with all of you. TLDR; Park beside wall at first cattle grid and walk down. Pond area is about to be worked on.
sneaks - 19/Apr/11
Amazing place to climb. Lots of good problems spread out over quite a large area. Only real issue is that people seem to climb mainly on 3 or 4 boulders/walls so most of the place is dirty and needs more traffic.
pigeonjim - 26/Aug/10
The rock is from the same deposit as Rothley, It's called Ingoe Grit. Whoever said there was no grit in Northumberland should look up Jack Rock.
JDal - 17/May/10
I've seen it written up as a type of gritstone, as well as a coarse sandstone. It's completely different in texture from the Fell Sandstone of Bowden etc, so I thought it worth calling it gritstone just to made the difference clear. I can change it if it bothers you!
Stuart S - 06/Mar/09
Gritstone!?!?! There isnt any in Northumberland! This Crag is Sandstone
benj_d - 05/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 -----SHAFTOE NORTH---- 
 THE RIFT 
3First Problemf6A 4
4Problem 5
-
f5 11
5Problem 6f6A 4
6Problem 7f5+ 4
7Problem 8f6A 2
8Problem 10f6C 1
9The Second Nosef6B 2
 THE PUDDING STONE 
11Problem 1f4+ 15
12Problem 2
-
f5 24
13Pudding Fillerf4 3
14Problem 3f6C 10
 NORTH BUTTRESS 
16Short Wall
-
f4 18
17Merry Dancersf6A 7
18Undercut Arete
-
f6B 2
19Mini Powerf6C 8
20Aurora Borealisf4 3
21Northern Frightsf5+ 2
 ARETE LAND, HALLIONS ROCKS 
23Problem 10f5 51
24Pianof7B 3
25Fingersf7A 2
26The Long Reach
-
f6A 26
27The Long Reach SDSf7B 10
28Slapperf7A 144
29Clamperf7A+ 18
30Corner Crack
-
f4+ 36
31Problem 18f5 24
32Problem 19f5+ 17
33Classic Arete
-
f6A 76
34Shaftoe Blocf6C 2
35Problem 21f5+ 47
36Problem 22f5+ 31
37Problem 23f6A+ 23
38Problem 24f5+ 11
 SIX PACK 
40Six Pack Circuitf6B 7
41Lip Tripf6A+ 9
42Alexisf6B+ 14
 PUNISHMENT BLOCK 
44Green Line
-
f4+ 9
45Problem 29
-
f4 18
46Problem 30
-
f4 16
47Problem 32
-
f5+ 13
 DOLPHIN 
49Problem 36f6C 4
 THE INCLINED SLAB 
51Problem 38
-
f4+ 24
 GRINDSTONE 
 JUBILEE BOULDER 
 -----CENTRAL AREA----- 
 SALTER'S NICK 
56In the Nickf6A+ 3
57Sharp Arete
-
f6A 12
58Salt n Pepperf5+ 10
59Salt n Pepper Right Hand Sidef6A 4
60'S' Crack
-
f4 27
61Central Traversef6C 4
62Right-hand Traversef5+ 5
63Problem 10f5+ 5
64Small Boulder
-
f5 11
65Small Fryf4+ 2
66Syco Sheepf6C *4
67Full Nettle Jacketf5+ 2
68Finger Bowl
-
f4 10
69Chicken Ed
-
f4+ 7
 LOST ARROWHEAD LOWER BOULDER 
71Problem 17
-
f4+ 44
72Problem 18
-
f5+ 36
73Problem 19
-
f5+ 32
74Problem 20
-
f5 16
75Problem 20af6A+ 3
76Sunshowerf6A 7
77Rainshowerf6B 6
 LOST ARROWHEAD CAVE 
79Lost Slabf4 32
80Lost Groove
-
f4 42
81Axe Head
-
f6A 58
82Stone Age Manf7A+ 7
83Lost Arrowheadf6C 16
84Neolithic Man
-
f6B 24
85Cave Dwellerf7A+ 21
 CRUCIFIX BOULDER 
87Christmas Timef4 3
88Problem 31f6A 1
89Crucifix Crackf5 13
90Problem 33f5 3
91Problem 34f6C 2
 OYSTER ROCK (WALL BOULDER) 
 BOULDER IN THE WOODS 
 GATEWAY BUTTRESSES 
95Mrs Mops Problem 40f4 29
96Mrs Mops Problem 41f4 35
97Mrs Mops Problem 42f4 32
98Mrs Mops Problem 43f4 24
 THE RAVINE 
100Shallow Groove
-
f4 75
101Pocket Wall (problem 45)
-
f4 75
102Side Wall
-
f4 73
103Hidden Crackf6A 13
104Young's Aretef6B 11
105Easy Wall
-
f4 41
106Crack One
-
f5 49
107No Need for Speedf6C+ 4
108Smooth Wallf7A 28
109Crack Two
-
f4 74
110Buford T Justicef6C+ 51
111Pocket Wall (problem 53)
-
f5+ 55
112Problem 54f5+ 28
113Way Cool
-
f5 77
114Problem 56
-
f6A 37
115Problem 57
-
f5 32
116Low Level Traverse
-
f4 15
117Mid Level Traverse
-
f4+ 12
 THE BIG BIRCH 
119Problem 61
-
f4+ 3
120Problem 63f4 3
121Branch Leftf6A 1
122Branch Rightf6B 1
123Branch Right SDSf6C 1
124The Mantelf7A+ 4
 -----WESTERN EDGES----- 
 FONT BOULDER 
127Bleaustardf6A+ 26
128Purely Belterf8A **16
129Suprising Solutionf7A 68
130Font Centref7A 13
131Incipient Crackf6A 63
132Incipient Crack (sit start)f7A ***83
133Problem 5f6A 34
134Problem 5 Sit Startf6B 15
135Short Crack
-
f4+ 51
136Little Prowf6A 32
137Cuvier
-
f6A 38
138Final Prow
-
f4+ 37
139Font Traversef6C 49
140Reverse Traversef6B 6
 THE BUSINESS 
142Problem 14f7A 7
 STOLEN FROM IVOR 
 MINI OBELISK 
145Cliff's Slab
-
f4 21
 ASTRO 
 HAIR LIP 
 SMITH'S ROCKS 
149The Lipf7A 2
150The Scoop
-
f6B 23
151The Mask
-
f6C+ 23
152The Crackf4 15
153Milk and Cookiesf6A+ 11
154Knee Crackerf6A+ 7
155The Bunkerf6B 8
156The Edge
-
f6A 15
157Weasels Ripped my Fleshf6C 3
158Classic Arete (standing start)
-
f4 32
159Classic Arete (sit start)
-
f6B 18
160Clampf5+ **9
161City of Sand
-
f6B 8
162Problem 38
-
f6C 9
163Pebble Slabf6C 7
164Proposalf6C 17
 TURTLE ROCK 
166Turtle's Flipper Left-Hand
-
f5 12
167Turtle's Flipper Right-Hand
-
f5 10
168Underbelly
-
f5 15
169Soft Centref6A 32
170The Bossf7B **22
171Blood Sportf8A+ 1
172Bloodsport Left Hand Finishf8B+ 1
173Hard Shellf6C 7
174Darkness Beckons
-
f6A 40
175darkness beckons SDS (into the light)f6C *1
 NEB BOULDER 
177Power is Nothing Without Controlf7C ***7
178Crease Classic
-
f6B 41
179Broken Hearts Are For Assholesf7A+ 62
180The Neb Roof
-
f6C 86
181The Originalf6A **44
182Perverse Classicf6C *7
183Problem 58
-
f6A 12
184Problem 59
-
f5+ 10
185Sloper Masterclassf5+ ***154
186Problem 61
-
f6A 14
187Problem 62
-
f6B 36
188Aside
-
f6B 27
 -----SHAFTOE SUMMIT----- 
 DEAD PINE BUTTRESS 
191The Alligatorf5+ 2
192The Alligator Right-Handf6B 1
193Clueless Caiman Huntersf6A+ 1
194Living Fossilf6A 1
195Lightning Never Strikes Twicef5 2
196Problem 10
-
f5+ 3
197The Cowf6A  
 DISHPAN ALLEY 
199East Wall
-
f5+ 26
200Arete
-
f6A 22
201Problem 18
-
f4 38
202Problem 19f4+ 27
203Problem 20f5+ *16
204Problem 21
-
f5+ 25
205Problem 22
-
f5+ 39
206Rising Damp
-
f6B 22
207Corner
-
f4+ 26
208Mantel Madnessf6C ***24
209Problem 29
-
f5+ 12
210Blunt Nose
-
f6A+ 8
211Problem 31
-
f5+ 10
212Problem 32
-
f4 16
 MAIN BUTTRESS 
214Problem 34 (standing start)
-
f5+ 7
215Viagra Plus
-
f6B+ 23
216Viagra Plus Sit Startf7B 33
217Sloppy Ploppinf6C 5
218Sloppy Ploppin S.Sf7C+ 1
219Central Wallf7B+ 3
220Main Wall
-
f6C 8
221Main Wall Sit Startf7B+ **17
222Timmy Tip Toesf7A+ *38
223Magic Fluting
-
f5 79
 FLUTED WALL 
225The Stingf6A+ 5
226Buzzingf6C 7
227Buzzing (sit start)f7A **6
 THE COB 
229Problem 48
-
f5+ 18
230Cob Arete
-
f5 94
231Problem 50
-
f6A 32
232Hound Dogf7A+ 12
233Killer Queenf6C 4
234Hip Hop
-
f6A 34
235Honeycomb Wall Traverse
-
f6C 43
236The Linkf6A 3
 SHIP'S BAIT CABIN 
238Problem 58f4 62
239Problem 59f4 57
240Problem 60f5 54
241The Thug
-
f5+ 32
242The Technician
-
f5+ 27
243Lip Traverse
-
f4 19
244Port
-
f5+ 53
245Galley Wall (standing start)
-
f4+ 53
246Galley Wall (sit start)
-
f6A *33
247Wolf
-
f6B 19
248Starboard
-
f5 61
249Bow Wave
-
f6A 35
250Lost Crack (standing start)
-
f5 19
251Lost Crack (sit start)
-
f5+ 23
 SHAFTOE GRANGE FARM BUTTRESSES 
253Cow Patf5+ 4
 -----SHAFTOE SOUTH----- 
 RUDDER'S BOULDERS 
256Rudyard
-
f5+ 3
 THE SEADOG BOULDER 
 PUNCH BOWL 
259Black Puddingf7A *1
260Problem 7f6C 1
261Duvel 8.5%f7A 17
262Problem 10f5+ 13
263Canine
-
f6A 10
264Problem 12f6C 1
 CAVE BUTTRESS 
266Flake Crackf4+ 10
267Pocket Rocketf7A 29
268The Wallf4+ 3
 LITTLE DAL BUTTRESS 
270The Scoop
-
f4 2
271The Wallf6B 2
272Little Crackf4 1
273Little Johnf5 1
274Slab Arete
-
f4 4
275Little and Oftenf6B+ *1
276Problem 26
-
f4+ 3
 LONG WALL 
2783 Fingers, 1 Pebble.f6C 1
279Wickermanf6B 2
280Wickerman SSf6B+ 2
281Wicker aretef6C 2
282Wickerman Warm Upf4 1
 MINISCULE MATTERHORN 
284Problem 28
-
f4 8
285Problem 29
-
f4 6
 Cafe Noir 
287Cafe NoirE4 5c **1
 CENTRAL ALCOVE 
289Problem 34
-
f4 5
290Butch Catch-Me and the Campus Board Kidf6C+ 6
 TWO TIER BOULDER 
292Tears in Heavenf5+ 5
293River of Tearsf7B+ *1
294Tears on the Dance Floorf6B+ 2
295Edge of Sanityf5 4
296Two Tier Crackf4+  
 CYCLOPS BUTTRESS 
298Green Wallf4 9
299Left Arete
-
f4+ 10
300Cyclops Wallf5 6
301Right Aretef5 4
302The Scoopf4+ 3
303Side Wallf4+ 3
 HALFWAY HOUSE 
 ROADSIDE BOULDER 
306The lip sit startf7A+ 2
307Spinal Tapf7C **3
308Slim Shady (standing start)
-
f6A 57
309Slim shady (sit start)f7A **70
310Real Slim Shadyf7A+ ***26
311Real Slim Shady (Left Hand)f7B ***3
312Intermittent Crackf5+ 40
313Not to be Taken Awayf5 46
314Roadside Wallf7C+ 1
315Roadside Aretef5 26
316Problem 61f4 2
317Problem 63
-
f4 6
318Problem 12
-
f6B 1
319Orangutan *f6C 1
320Spinal tap RH *f7B+ *1
321The antler *f7A 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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