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These details were last updated on 23/Oct/2011

Shaftoe Crags

Northumberland, ENGLAND

Climbs 247 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Primarily a bouldering venue, and a bloody good one at that. There are hundreds of problems strewn all over the moor, with easy stuff to mega desperates. The routes are all on the Southern Escarpment (the bit visible from the main road).

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
11 °C
19 kph

0.7mm rain
Mainly cloudy
8 °C
31 kph

0.2mm rain
Sunny periods
6 °C
23 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
9 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
9 °C
24 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 -----SHAFTOE NORTH----  
3First Problemf6A 4
4Problem 5f5 9
5Problem 6f6A 4
6Problem 7f5+ 4
7Problem 8f6A 2
8The Second Nosef6B 2
10Problem 1f4+ 14
11Problem 2f5 21
12Problem 3f6C 6
13Pudding Fillerf4 1
15Short Wallf4 14
16Merry Dancersf6A 5
17Mini Powerf6C 6
19Problem 10f5 35
20Pianof7B 2
21Fingersf7A 1
22The Long Reachf6A 23
23The Long Reach SDSf7B 4
24Slapperf7A 102
25Clamperf7A+ 13
26Corner Crackf4+ 28
27Problem 18f5 13
28Problem 19f5+ 14
29Classic Aretef6A 62
30Problem 21f5+ 33
31Problem 22f5+ 20
32Problem 23f6A+ 17
33Problem 24f5+ 8
35Six Pack Circuitf6B 5
36Lip Tripf6A+ 6
37Alexisf6B+ 11
39Green Linef4+ 7
40Problem 29f4 13
41Problem 30f4 12
42Problem 32f5+ 11
44Problem 36f6C 2
46Problem 38f4+ 19
 -----CENTRAL AREA-----  
51In the Nickf6A+ 3
52Sharp Aretef6A 10
53Salt n Pepperf5+ 8
54Salt n Pepper Right Hand Sidef6A 4
55'S' Crackf4 22
56Central Traversef6C 3
57Right-hand Traversef5+ 4
58Problem 10f5+ 4
59Small Boulderf5 9
60Syco Sheepf6C *3
61Finger Bowlf4 7
62Chicken Edf4+ 6
64Problem 17f4+ 30
65Problem 18f5+ 26
66Problem 19f5+ 28
67Problem 20f5 13
68Problem 20af6A+ 3
69Sunshowerf6A 7
70Rainshowerf6B 6
72Lost Slabf4 24
73Lost Groovef4 34
74Axe Headf6A 45
75Stone Age Manf7A+ 4
76Lost Arrowheadf6C 8
77Neolithic Manf6B 17
78Cave Dwellerf7A+ 14
80Christmas Timef4 2
81Problem 31f6A 1
82Crucifix Crackf5 12
83Problem 33f5 2
84Problem 34f6C 1
88Mrs Mops Problem 40f4 23
89Mrs Mops Problem 41f4 30
90Mrs Mops Problem 42f4 28
91Mrs Mops Problem 43f4 21
93Shallow Groovef4 53
94Pocket Wall (problem 45)f4 52
95Side Wallf4 50
96Hidden Crackf6A 8
97Young's Aretef6B 7
98Easy Wallf4 29
99Crack Onef5 33
100No Need for Speedf6C+ 3
101Smooth Wallf7A 16
102Crack Twof4 49
103Buford T Justicef6C+ 31
104Pocket Wall (problem 53)f5+ 39
105Problem 54f5+ 17
106Way Coolf5 54
107Problem 56f6A 20
108Problem 57f5 22
109Low Level Traversef4 10
110Mid Level Traversef4+ 10
112Problem 61f4+ 3
113Problem 63f4 3
114The Mantelf7A+ 3
 -----WESTERN EDGES-----  
117Bleaustardf6A+ 23
118Purely Belterf8A **14
119Suprising Solutionf7A 54
120Font Centref7A 11
121Incipient Crackf6A 46
122Incipient Crack (sit start)f7A ***59
123Problem 5f6A 24
124Problem 5 Sit Startf6B 5
125Short Crackf4+ 36
126Little Prowf6A 20
127Cuvierf6A 31
128Final Prowf4+ 22
129Font Traversef6C 36
130Reverse Traversef6B 4
132Problem 14f7A 6
135Cliff's Slabf4 14
139The Lipf7A 3
140The Scoopf6B 19
141The Maskf6C+ 21
142The Crackf4 13
143Milk and Cookiesf6A+ 10
144Knee Crackerf6A+ 5
145The Bunkerf6B 6
146The Edgef6A 12
147Weasels Ripped my Fleshf6C 2
148Classic Arete (standing start)f4 29
149Classic Arete (sit start)f6B 16
150Clampf5+ **8
 Climb nameGradex
151City of Sandf6B 8
152Problem 38f6C 7
153Pebble Slabf6C 6
154Proposalf6C 14
156Turtle's Flipper Left-Handf5 12
157Turtle's Flipper Right-Handf5 10
158Underbellyf5 13
159Soft Centref6A 22
160The Bossf7B **14
161Blood Sportf8B 1
162Bloodsport Left Hand Finishf8B+ 1
163Hard Shellf6C 4
164Darkness Beckonsf6A 29
166Power is Nothing Without Controlf7C ***4
167Crease Classicf6B 31
168Broken Hearts Are For Assholesf7A+ 33
169The Neb Rooff6C 58
170The Originalf6A **29
171Perverse Classicf6C *4
172Problem 58f6A 8
173Problem 59f5+ 9
174Sloper Masterclassf5+ ***86
175Problem 61f6A 9
176Problem 62f6B 22
177Asidef6B 20
 -----SHAFTOE SUMMIT-----  
180The Alligatorf5+ 2
181The Alligator Right-Handf6B 1
182Lightning Never Strikes Twicef5 2
183Problem 10f5+ 3
185East Wallf5+ 19
186Aretef6A 19
187Problem 18f4 28
188Problem 19f4+ 20
189Problem 20f5+ *10
190Problem 21f5+ 22
191Problem 22f5+ 33
192Rising Dampf6B 19
193Cornerf4+ 23
194Mantel Madnessf6C ***21
195Problem 29f5+ 11
196Blunt Nosef6A+ 7
197Problem 31f5+ 9
198Problem 32f4 12
200Problem 34 (standing start)f5+ 6
201Viagra Plusf6B+ 15
202Viagra Plus Sit Startf7B 23
203Sloppy Ploppinf6C 5
204Sloppy Ploppin S.Sf7C+ 1
205Central Wallf7B+ 3
206Main Wallf6C 7
207Main Wall Sit Startf7B+ **13
208Timmy Tip Toesf7A+ *24
209Magic Flutingf5 59
211The Stingf6A+ 3
212Buzzingf6C 1
213Buzzing (sit start)f7A **1
215Problem 48f5+ 15
216Cob Aretef5 68
217Problem 50f6A 24
218Hound Dogf7A+ 8
219Killer Queenf6C 4
220Hip Hopf6A 26
221Honeycomb Wall Traversef6C 27
222The Linkf6A 2
224Problem 58f4 40
225Problem 59f4 34
226Problem 60f5 39
227The Thugf5+ 23
228The Technicianf5+ 23
229Lip Traversef4 16
230Portf5+ 37
231Galley Wall (standing start)f4+ 38
232Galley Wall (sit start)f6A *25
233Wolff6B 14
234Starboardf5 39
235Bow Wavef6A 27
236Lost Crack (standing start)f5 12
237Lost Crack (sit start)f5+ 17
239Cow Patf5+ 3
 -----SHAFTOE SOUTH-----  
242Rudyardf5+ 2
245Black Puddingf7A *2
246Duvel 8.5%f7A 7
247Problem 10f5+ 10
248Caninef6A 6
250Flake Crackf4+ 7
251Pocket Rocketf7A 16
252The Wallf4+ 3
254The Scoopf4 2
255The Wallf6B 2
256Little Crackf4 1
257Little Johnf5 1
258Slab Aretef4 4
259Little and Oftenf6B+ *1
260Problem 26f4+ 3
263Problem 28f4 8
264Problem 29f4 6
266Cafe NoirE4 5c **1
268Problem 34f4 5
269Butch Catch-Me and the Campus Board Kidf6C+ 4
271Tears in Heavenf5+ 5
272River of Tearsf7B+ *1
273Tears on the Dance Floorf6B+ 2
274Edge of Sanityf5 2
276Green Wallf4 5
277Left Aretef4+ 7
278Cyclops Wallf5 5
279Right Aretef5 4
280The Scoopf4+ 3
281Side Wallf4+ 2
284Roadside Aretef5 20
285Not to be Taken Awayf5 28
286Slim shady (sit start)f7A **37
287Real Slim Shadyf7A+ ***12
288Intermittent Crackf5+ 21
289Slim Shady (standing start)f6A 29
290Roadside Wallf7C+ 1
291Problem 61f4 2
292Problem 63f4 6
293Problem 12 f6B 1
294Small Fry *f4+ 1
295Real Slim Shady (Left Hand) *f7B ***2
296Spinal Tap *f7C **3
297The lip sit start *f7A+ 1
298Shaftoe Bloc *f6C  
299Problem 10 *f6C  
3006a *f6A 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Access notes
From Belsay on the A696, head for Bolam Lakes. Go past the lake car park on the right to a crossroads, turn left along an unmetalled road past a row of cottages. Park by the wall on the moor just over the cattle grid. Be sure to keep your speed down.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
*CAUTION* Climbed here today (23/08/13) and on the way back to the cars found a very big BULL in the fields with the cows.
DaveB_86 - 23/Aug/13

Can be very wet and boggy on walk in. Mind the cattle they can be very easily spooked
Fluvial - 06/Aug/12

Extremely sad.
Ian Jones - 09/Apr/12

Was there today and parked at the second 'limited' parking spot closest to the pond. Arrived back to find a very polite letter explaining that parking here now should not happen and that we should all use the top parking area after the first cattle grid. Letter said information had been posted on 'the website' which i assume is UKbouldering. Here's me sharing it with all of you. TLDR; Park beside wall at first cattle grid and walk down. Pond area is about to be worked on.
sneaks - 19/Apr/11

Amazing place to climb. Lots of good problems spread out over quite a large area. Only real issue is that people seem to climb mainly on 3 or 4 boulders/walls so most of the place is dirty and needs more traffic.
pigeonjim - 26/Aug/10

The rock is from the same deposit as Rothley, It's called Ingoe Grit. Whoever said there was no grit in Northumberland should look up Jack Rock.
JDal - 17/May/10

I've seen it written up as a type of gritstone, as well as a coarse sandstone. It's completely different in texture from the Fell Sandstone of Bowden etc, so I thought it worth calling it gritstone just to made the difference clear. I can change it if it bothers you!
Stuart S - 06/Mar/09

Gritstone!?!?! There isnt any in Northumberland! This Crag is Sandstone
benj_d - 05/Mar/09