Shaftoe Crags

Climbs 265 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Primarily a bouldering venue, and a bloody good one at that. There are hundreds of problems strewn all over the moor, with easy stuff to mega desperates. The routes are all on the Southern Escarpment (the bit visible from the main road).

Approach notes
From Belsay on the A696, head for Bolam Lakes. Go past the lake car park on the right to a crossroads, turn left along an unmetalled road past a row of cottages. Park by the wall on the moor just over the cattle grid. Be sure to keep your speed down.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 -----SHAFTOE NORTH----  
3First Problemf6A 4
4Problem 5f5 11
5Problem 6f6A 4
6Problem 7f5+ 4
7Problem 8f6A 2
8Problem 10f6C 1
9The Second Nosef6B 2
11Problem 1f4+ 15
12Problem 2f5 22
13Pudding Fillerf4 3
14Problem 3f6C 9
16Short Wallf4 17
17Merry Dancersf6A 7
18Undercut Aretef6B 1
19Mini Powerf6C 7
20Aurora Borealisf4 2
21Northern Frightsf5+ 2
23Problem 10f5 43
24Pianof7B 3
25Fingersf7A 2
26The Long Reachf6A 25
27The Long Reach SDSf7B 9
28Slapperf7A 126
29Clamperf7A+ 18
30Corner Crackf4+ 34
31Problem 18f5 22
32Problem 19f5+ 16
33Classic Aretef6A 75
34Shaftoe Blocf6C 2
35Problem 21f5+ 43
36Problem 22f5+ 29
37Problem 23f6A+ 23
38Problem 24f5+ 11
40Six Pack Circuitf6B 7
41Lip Tripf6A+ 9
42Alexisf6B+ 14
44Green Linef4+ 8
45Problem 29f4 16
46Problem 30f4 14
47Problem 32f5+ 12
49Problem 36f6C 4
51Problem 38f4+ 22
 -----CENTRAL AREA-----  
56In the Nickf6A+ 3
57Sharp Aretef6A 12
58Salt n Pepperf5+ 9
59Salt n Pepper Right Hand Sidef6A 4
60'S' Crackf4 25
61Central Traversef6C 4
62Right-hand Traversef5+ 4
63Problem 10f5+ 4
64Small Boulderf5 10
65Small Fryf4+ 2
66Syco Sheepf6C *4
67Full Nettle Jacketf5+ 1
68Finger Bowlf4 9
69Chicken Edf4+ 6
71Problem 17f4+ 37
72Problem 18f5+ 32
73Problem 19f5+ 32
74Problem 20f5 15
75Problem 20af6A+ 3
76Sunshowerf6A 7
77Rainshowerf6B 6
79Lost Slabf4 30
80Lost Groovef4 40
81Axe Headf6A 52
82Stone Age Manf7A+ 6
83Lost Arrowheadf6C 13
84Neolithic Manf6B 23
85Cave Dwellerf7A+ 20
87Christmas Timef4 3
88Problem 31f6A 1
89Crucifix Crackf5 13
90Problem 33f5 3
91Problem 34f6C 2
95Mrs Mops Problem 40f4 29
96Mrs Mops Problem 41f4 35
97Mrs Mops Problem 42f4 32
98Mrs Mops Problem 43f4 24
100Shallow Groovef4 65
101Pocket Wall (problem 45)f4 64
102Side Wallf4 62
103Hidden Crackf6A 12
104Young's Aretef6B 8
105Easy Wallf4 39
106Crack Onef5 46
107No Need for Speedf6C+ 4
108Smooth Wallf7A 23
109Crack Twof4 67
110Buford T Justicef6C+ 42
111Pocket Wall (problem 53)f5+ 52
112Problem 54f5+ 26
113Way Coolf5 71
114Problem 56f6A 30
115Problem 57f5 32
116Low Level Traversef4 15
117Mid Level Traversef4+ 12
119Problem 61f4+ 3
120Problem 63f4 3
121The Mantelf7A+ 3
 -----WESTERN EDGES-----  
124Bleaustardf6A+ 24
125Purely Belterf8A **15
126Suprising Solutionf7A 64
127Font Centref7A 12
128Incipient Crackf6A 58
129Incipient Crack (sit start)f7A ***75
130Problem 5f6A 30
131Problem 5 Sit Startf6B 13
132Short Crackf4+ 44
133Little Prowf6A 26
134Cuvierf6A 36
135Final Prowf4+ 32
136Font Traversef6C 45
137Reverse Traversef6B 5
139Problem 14f7A 7
142Cliff's Slabf4 18
146The Lipf7A 2
147The Scoopf6B 23
148The Maskf6C+ 23
149The Crackf4 15
150Milk and Cookiesf6A+ 11
151Knee Crackerf6A+ 7
152The Bunkerf6B 8
153The Edgef6A 15
154Weasels Ripped my Fleshf6C 3
155Classic Arete (standing start)f4 32
156Classic Arete (sit start)f6B 18
157Clampf5+ **9
158City of Sandf6B 8
159Problem 38f6C 9
160Pebble Slabf6C 7
161Proposalf6C 16
163Turtle's Flipper Left-Handf5 12
164Turtle's Flipper Right-Handf5 10
165Underbellyf5 15
166Soft Centref6A 29
167The Bossf7B **19
168Blood Sportf8A+ 1
169Bloodsport Left Hand Finishf8B+ 1
170Hard Shellf6C 7
171Darkness Beckonsf6A 36
173Power is Nothing Without Controlf7C ***5
174Crease Classicf6B 37
175Broken Hearts Are For Assholesf7A+ 48
176The Neb Rooff6C 81
177The Originalf6A **41
178Perverse Classicf6C *6
179Problem 58f6A 12
180Problem 59f5+ 10
181Sloper Masterclassf5+ ***126
182Problem 61f6A 13
183Problem 62f6B 34
184Asidef6B 27
 -----SHAFTOE SUMMIT-----  
187The Alligatorf5+ 2
188The Alligator Right-Handf6B 1
189Clueless Caiman Huntersf6A+ 1
190Living Fossilf6A 1
191Lightning Never Strikes Twicef5 2
192Problem 10f5+ 3
193The Cowf6A  
195East Wallf5+ 24
196Aretef6A 20
197Problem 18f4 37
198Problem 19f4+ 26
199Problem 20f5+ *16
200Problem 21f5+ 25
201Problem 22f5+ 39
202Rising Dampf6B 22
203Cornerf4+ 26
204Mantel Madnessf6C ***24
205Problem 29f5+ 12
206Blunt Nosef6A+ 8
207Problem 31f5+ 10
208Problem 32f4 16
210Problem 34 (standing start)f5+ 7
211Viagra Plusf6B+ 21
212Viagra Plus Sit Startf7B 29
213Sloppy Ploppinf6C 5
214Sloppy Ploppin S.Sf7C+ 1
215Central Wallf7B+ 3
216Main Wallf6C 7
217Main Wall Sit Startf7B+ **16
218Timmy Tip Toesf7A+ *28
219Magic Flutingf5 73
221The Stingf6A+ 5
222Buzzingf6C 7
223Buzzing (sit start)f7A **6
225Problem 48f5+ 17
226Cob Aretef5 90
227Problem 50f6A 32
228Hound Dogf7A+ 12
229Killer Queenf6C 4
230Hip Hopf6A 32
231Honeycomb Wall Traversef6C 39
232The Linkf6A 3
234Problem 58f4 58
235Problem 59f4 51
236Problem 60f5 51
237The Thugf5+ 31
238The Technicianf5+ 27
239Lip Traversef4 19
240Portf5+ 49
241Galley Wall (standing start)f4+ 50
242Galley Wall (sit start)f6A *32
243Wolff6B 19
244Starboardf5 60
245Bow Wavef6A 35
246Lost Crack (standing start)f5 17
247Lost Crack (sit start)f5+ 21
249Cow Patf5+ 4
 -----SHAFTOE SOUTH-----  
252Rudyardf5+ 3
255Black Puddingf7A *1
256Problem 7f6C 1
257Duvel 8.5%f7A 13
258Problem 10f5+ 13
259Caninef6A 10
260Problem 12f6C 1
262Flake Crackf4+ 10
263Pocket Rocketf7A 23
264The Wallf4+ 3
266The Scoopf4 2
267The Wallf6B 2
268Little Crackf4 1
269Little Johnf5 1
270Slab Aretef4 4
271Little and Oftenf6B+ *1
272Problem 26f4+ 3
2743 Fingers, 1 Pebble.f6C 1
275Wickermanf6B 2
276Wickerman SSf6B+ 2
277Wicker aretef6C 2
278Wickerman Warm Upf4 1
280Problem 28f4 8
281Problem 29f4 6
283Cafe NoirE4 5c **1
285Problem 34f4 5
286Butch Catch-Me and the Campus Board Kidf6C+ 5
288Tears in Heavenf5+ 5
289River of Tearsf7B+ *1
290Tears on the Dance Floorf6B+ 2
291Edge of Sanityf5 3
293Green Wallf4 9
294Left Aretef4+ 10
295Cyclops Wallf5 6
296Right Aretef5 4
297The Scoopf4+ 3
298Side Wallf4+ 3
301The lip sit startf7A+ 2
302Spinal Tapf7C **3
303Slim Shady (standing start)f6A 49
304Slim shady (sit start)f7A **62
305Real Slim Shadyf7A+ ***20
306Real Slim Shady (Left Hand)f7B ***3
307Intermittent Crackf5+ 34
308Not to be Taken Awayf5 38
309Roadside Wallf7C+ 1
310Roadside Aretef5 26
311Problem 61f4 2
312Problem 63f4 6
313Problem 12f6B 1
314Branch Leftf6A 1
315Branch Rightf6B 1
316Branch Right SDSf6C 1
317darkness beckons SDS (into the light)f6C *1
318Pocket Wall *f5+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer rodge

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
*CAUTION* Climbed here today (23/08/13) and on the way back to the cars found a very big BULL in the fields with the cows.
DaveB_86 - 23/Aug/13
Can be very wet and boggy on walk in. Mind the cattle they can be very easily spooked
Fluvial - 06/Aug/12
Extremely sad.
Ian Jones - 09/Apr/12
Was there today and parked at the second 'limited' parking spot closest to the pond. Arrived back to find a very polite letter explaining that parking here now should not happen and that we should all use the top parking area after the first cattle grid. Letter said information had been posted on 'the website' which i assume is UKbouldering. Here's me sharing it with all of you. TLDR; Park beside wall at first cattle grid and walk down. Pond area is about to be worked on.
sneaks - 19/Apr/11
Amazing place to climb. Lots of good problems spread out over quite a large area. Only real issue is that people seem to climb mainly on 3 or 4 boulders/walls so most of the place is dirty and needs more traffic.
pigeonjim - 26/Aug/10
The rock is from the same deposit as Rothley, It's called Ingoe Grit. Whoever said there was no grit in Northumberland should look up Jack Rock.
JDal - 17/May/10
I've seen it written up as a type of gritstone, as well as a coarse sandstone. It's completely different in texture from the Fell Sandstone of Bowden etc, so I thought it worth calling it gritstone just to made the difference clear. I can change it if it bothers you!
Stuart S - 06/Mar/09
Gritstone!?!?! There isnt any in Northumberland! This Crag is Sandstone
benj_d - 05/Mar/09