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These details were last updated on 27/May/2014

Shaftoe Crags

Northumberland, ENGLAND

Climbs 254 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Primarily a bouldering venue, and a bloody good one at that. There are hundreds of problems strewn all over the moor, with easy stuff to mega desperates. The routes are all on the Southern Escarpment (the bit visible from the main road).

Access notes
From Belsay on the A696, head for Bolam Lakes. Go past the lake car park on the right to a crossroads, turn left along an unmetalled road past a row of cottages. Park by the wall on the moor just over the cattle grid. Be sure to keep your speed down.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

3.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
24 kph

0.7mm rain
Sun
12 °C
16 kph

3.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
13 °C
13 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
15 °C
10 kph

12.2mm rain
Mainly cloudy
14 °C
19 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 -----SHAFTOE NORTH----  
 THE RIFT  
3First Problemf6A 4
4Problem 5f5 10
5Problem 6f6A 4
6Problem 7f5+ 4
7Problem 8f6A 2
8Problem 10f6C 1
9The Second Nosef6B 2
 THE PUDDING STONE  
11Problem 1f4+ 14
12Problem 2f5 22
13Pudding Fillerf4 3
14Problem 3f6C 6
 NORTH BUTTRESS  
16Short Wallf4 15
17Merry Dancersf6A 6
18Undercut Aretef6B  
19Mini Powerf6C 5
20Aurora Borealisf4 1
21Northern Frightsf5+  
 ARETE LAND, HALLIONS ROCKS  
23Problem 10f5 38
24Pianof7B 3
25Fingersf7A 1
26The Long Reachf6A 23
27The Long Reach SDSf7B 4
28Slapperf7A 109
29Clamperf7A+ 14
30Corner Crackf4+ 30
31Problem 18f5 17
32Problem 19f5+ 14
33Classic Aretef6A 64
34Shaftoe Blocf6C  
35Problem 21f5+ 36
36Problem 22f5+ 23
37Problem 23f6A+ 17
38Problem 24f5+ 8
 SIX PACK  
40Six Pack Circuitf6B 6
41Lip Tripf6A+ 8
42Alexisf6B+ 12
 PUNISHMENT BLOCK  
44Green Linef4+ 8
45Problem 29f4 13
46Problem 30f4 13
47Problem 32f5+ 12
 DOLPHIN  
49Problem 36f6C 3
 THE INCLINED SLAB  
51Problem 38f4+ 21
 GRINDSTONE  
 JUBILEE BOULDER  
 -----CENTRAL AREA-----  
 SALTER'S NICK  
56In the Nickf6A+ 3
57Sharp Aretef6A 10
58Salt n Pepperf5+ 8
59Salt n Pepper Right Hand Sidef6A 4
60'S' Crackf4 22
61Central Traversef6C 4
62Right-hand Traversef5+ 4
63Problem 10f5+ 4
64Small Boulderf5 9
65Small Fryf4+ 2
66Syco Sheepf6C *4
67Finger Bowlf4 7
68Chicken Edf4+ 6
 LOST ARROWHEAD LOWER BOULDER  
70Problem 17f4+ 33
71Problem 18f5+ 28
72Problem 19f5+ 29
73Problem 20f5 13
74Problem 20af6A+ 3
75Sunshowerf6A 7
76Rainshowerf6B 6
 LOST ARROWHEAD CAVE  
78Lost Slabf4 27
79Lost Groovef4 37
80Axe Headf6A 46
81Stone Age Manf7A+ 4
82Lost Arrowheadf6C 10
83Neolithic Manf6B 18
84Cave Dwellerf7A+ 17
 CRUCIFIX BOULDER  
86Christmas Timef4 3
87Problem 31f6A 1
88Crucifix Crackf5 13
89Problem 33f5 3
90Problem 34f6C 1
 OYSTER ROCK (WALL BOULDER)  
 BOULDER IN THE WOODS  
 GATEWAY BUTTRESSES  
94Mrs Mops Problem 40f4 26
95Mrs Mops Problem 41f4 32
96Mrs Mops Problem 42f4 30
97Mrs Mops Problem 43f4 23
 THE RAVINE  
99Shallow Groovef4 58
100Pocket Wall (problem 45)f4 57
101Side Wallf4 55
102Hidden Crackf6A 8
103Young's Aretef6B 7
104Easy Wallf4 31
105Crack Onef5 38
106No Need for Speedf6C+ 3
107Smooth Wallf7A 16
108Crack Twof4 54
109Buford T Justicef6C+ 31
110Pocket Wall (problem 53)f5+ 42
111Problem 54f5+ 19
112Way Coolf5 57
113Problem 56f6A 21
114Problem 57f5 25
115Low Level Traversef4 12
116Mid Level Traversef4+ 10
 THE BIG BIRCH  
118Problem 61f4+ 3
119Problem 63f4 3
120The Mantelf7A+ 3
 -----WESTERN EDGES-----  
 FONT BOULDER  
123Bleaustardf6A+ 23
124Purely Belterf8A **15
125Suprising Solutionf7A 55
126Font Centref7A 11
127Incipient Crackf6A 47
128Incipient Crack (sit start)f7A ***61
129Problem 5f6A 25
130Problem 5 Sit Startf6B 7
131Short Crackf4+ 39
132Little Prowf6A 22
133Cuvierf6A 32
134Final Prowf4+ 26
135Font Traversef6C 38
136Reverse Traversef6B 4
 THE BUSINESS  
138Problem 14f7A 7
 STOLEN FROM IVOR  
 MINI OBELISK  
141Cliff's Slabf4 18
 ASTRO  
 HAIR LIP  
 SMITH'S ROCKS  
145The Lipf7A 3
146The Scoopf6B 21
147The Maskf6C+ 22
148The Crackf4 15
149Milk and Cookiesf6A+ 11
150Knee Crackerf6A+ 5
151The Bunkerf6B 7
152The Edgef6A 13
153Weasels Ripped my Fleshf6C 3
154Classic Arete (standing start)f4 31
 Climb nameGradex
155Classic Arete (sit start)f6B 17
156Clampf5+ **8
157City of Sandf6B 8
158Problem 38f6C 7
159Pebble Slabf6C 7
160Proposalf6C 14
 TURTLE ROCK  
162Turtle's Flipper Left-Handf5 12
163Turtle's Flipper Right-Handf5 10
164Underbellyf5 14
165Soft Centref6A 22
166The Bossf7B **16
167Blood Sportf8B 1
168Bloodsport Left Hand Finishf8B+ 1
169Hard Shellf6C 6
170Darkness Beckonsf6A 30
 NEB BOULDER  
172Power is Nothing Without Controlf7C ***5
173Crease Classicf6B 32
174Broken Hearts Are For Assholesf7A+ 37
175The Neb Rooff6C 62
176The Originalf6A **33
177Perverse Classicf6C *4
178Problem 58f6A 10
179Problem 59f5+ 10
180Sloper Masterclassf5+ ***91
181Problem 61f6A 10
182Problem 62f6B 22
183Asidef6B 20
 -----SHAFTOE SUMMIT-----  
 DEAD PINE BUTTRESS  
186The Alligatorf5+ 2
187The Alligator Right-Handf6B 1
188Clueless Caiman Huntersf6A+ 1
189Living Fossilf6A 1
190Lightning Never Strikes Twicef5 2
191Problem 10f5+ 3
192The Cowf6A  
 DISHPAN ALLEY  
194East Wallf5+ 20
195Aretef6A 19
196Problem 18f4 32
197Problem 19f4+ 21
198Problem 20f5+ *10
199Problem 21f5+ 22
200Problem 22f5+ 33
201Rising Dampf6B 20
202Cornerf4+ 24
203Mantel Madnessf6C ***23
204Problem 29f5+ 11
205Blunt Nosef6A+ 8
206Problem 31f5+ 9
207Problem 32f4 12
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
209Problem 34 (standing start)f5+ 6
210Viagra Plusf6B+ 15
211Viagra Plus Sit Startf7B 25
212Sloppy Ploppinf6C 5
213Sloppy Ploppin S.Sf7C+ 1
214Central Wallf7B+ 3
215Main Wallf6C 7
216Main Wall Sit Startf7B+ **16
217Timmy Tip Toesf7A+ *26
218Magic Flutingf5 63
 FLUTED WALL  
220The Stingf6A+ 4
221Buzzingf6C 2
222Buzzing (sit start)f7A **2
 THE COB  
224Problem 48f5+ 15
225Cob Aretef5 75
226Problem 50f6A 27
227Hound Dogf7A+ 11
228Killer Queenf6C 4
229Hip Hopf6A 29
230Honeycomb Wall Traversef6C 33
231The Linkf6A 3
 SHIP'S BAIT CABIN  
233Problem 58f4 45
234Problem 59f4 40
235Problem 60f5 42
236The Thugf5+ 25
237The Technicianf5+ 24
238Lip Traversef4 18
239Portf5+ 39
240Galley Wall (standing start)f4+ 43
241Galley Wall (sit start)f6A *28
242Wolff6B 17
243Starboardf5 44
244Bow Wavef6A 28
245Lost Crack (standing start)f5 15
246Lost Crack (sit start)f5+ 18
 SHAFTOE GRANGE FARM BUTTRESSES  
248Cow Patf5+ 3
 -----SHAFTOE SOUTH-----  
 RUDDER'S BOULDERS  
251Rudyardf5+ 2
 THE SEADOG BOULDER  
 PUNCH BOWL  
254Black Puddingf7A *1
255Problem 7f6C 1
256Duvel 8.5%f7A 10
257Problem 10f5+ 12
258Caninef6A 8
259Problem 12f6C 1
 CAVE BUTTRESS  
261Flake Crackf4+ 8
262Pocket Rocketf7A 19
263The Wallf4+ 3
 LITTLE DAL BUTTRESS  
265The Scoopf4 2
266The Wallf6B 2
267Little Crackf4 1
268Little Johnf5 1
269Slab Aretef4 4
270Little and Oftenf6B+ *1
271Problem 26f4+ 3
 LONG WALL  
 MINISCULE MATTERHORN  
274Problem 28f4 8
275Problem 29f4 6
 CAFE NOIR  
277Cafe NoirE4 5c **1
 CENTRAL ALCOVE  
279Problem 34f4 5
280Butch Catch-Me and the Campus Board Kidf6C+ 5
 TWO TIER BOULDER  
282Tears in Heavenf5+ 5
283River of Tearsf7B+ *1
284Tears on the Dance Floorf6B+ 2
285Edge of Sanityf5 2
 CYCLOPS BUTTRESS  
287Green Wallf4 7
288Left Aretef4+ 8
289Cyclops Wallf5 6
290Right Aretef5 4
291The Scoopf4+ 3
292Side Wallf4+ 2
 HALFWAY HOUSE  
 ROADSIDE BOULDER  
295The lip sit startf7A+ 1
296Spinal Tapf7C **3
297Slim Shady (standing start)f6A 34
298Slim shady (sit start)f7A **45
299Real Slim Shadyf7A+ ***17
300Real Slim Shady (Left Hand)f7B ***2
301Intermittent Crackf5+ 25
302Not to be Taken Awayf5 30
303Roadside Wallf7C+ 1
304Roadside Aretef5 23
305Problem 61f4 2
306Problem 63f4 6
307Problem 12 f6B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
*CAUTION* Climbed here today (23/08/13) and on the way back to the cars found a very big BULL in the fields with the cows.
DaveB_86 - 23/Aug/13

Can be very wet and boggy on walk in. Mind the cattle they can be very easily spooked
Fluvial - 06/Aug/12

Extremely sad.
Ian Jones - 09/Apr/12

Was there today and parked at the second 'limited' parking spot closest to the pond. Arrived back to find a very polite letter explaining that parking here now should not happen and that we should all use the top parking area after the first cattle grid. Letter said information had been posted on 'the website' which i assume is UKbouldering. Here's me sharing it with all of you. TLDR; Park beside wall at first cattle grid and walk down. Pond area is about to be worked on.
sneaks - 19/Apr/11

Amazing place to climb. Lots of good problems spread out over quite a large area. Only real issue is that people seem to climb mainly on 3 or 4 boulders/walls so most of the place is dirty and needs more traffic.
pigeonjim - 26/Aug/10

The rock is from the same deposit as Rothley, It's called Ingoe Grit. Whoever said there was no grit in Northumberland should look up Jack Rock.
JDal - 17/May/10

I've seen it written up as a type of gritstone, as well as a coarse sandstone. It's completely different in texture from the Fell Sandstone of Bowden etc, so I thought it worth calling it gritstone just to made the difference clear. I can change it if it bothers you!
Stuart S - 06/Mar/09

Gritstone!?!?! There isnt any in Northumberland! This Crag is Sandstone
benj_d - 05/Mar/09