Climbs 288
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces all

Joe Wilson on the first ascent of Bloodsport LH © Katie Gamble

Crag features

Primarily a bouldering venue, and a bloody good one at that. There are hundreds of problems strewn all over the moor, with easy stuff to mega desperates. The routes are all on the Southern Escarpment (the bit visible from the main road).

Approach notes

From Belsay on the A696, head for Bolam Lakes. Go past the lake car park on the right to a crossroads, turn left along an unmetalled road past a row of cottages. Park by the wall on the moor just over the cattle grid. Be sure to keep your speed down.

Aye, brittle sandstone at that.
glaramara - 19/Jun/16
*CAUTION* Climbed here today (23/08/13) and on the way back to the cars found a very big BULL in the fields with the cows.
DaveB_86 - 23/Aug/13
Can be very wet and boggy on walk in. Mind the cattle they can be very easily spooked
Fluvial - 06/Aug/12
Extremely sad.
Ian Jones - 09/Apr/12
Was there today and parked at the second 'limited' parking spot closest to the pond. Arrived back to find a very polite letter explaining that parking here now should not happen and that we should all use the top parking area after the first cattle grid. Letter said information had been posted on 'the website' which i assume is UKbouldering. Here's me sharing it with all of you. TLDR; Park beside wall at first cattle grid and walk down. Pond area is about to be worked on.
sneaks - 19/Apr/11
Amazing place to climb. Lots of good problems spread out over quite a large area. Only real issue is that people seem to climb mainly on 3 or 4 boulders/walls so most of the place is dirty and needs more traffic.
pigeonjim - 26/Aug/10
The rock is from the same deposit as Rothley, It's called Ingoe Grit. Whoever said there was no grit in Northumberland should look up Jack Rock.
JDal - 17/May/10
I've seen it written up as a type of gritstone, as well as a coarse sandstone. It's completely different in texture from the Fell Sandstone of Bowden etc, so I thought it worth calling it gritstone just to made the difference clear. I can change it if it bothers you!
Stuart S - 06/Mar/09
Gritstone!?!?! There isnt any in Northumberland! This Crag is Sandstone
benj_d - 05/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 -----SHAFTOE NORTH---- 
 THE RIFT 
3First Problemf6A 6
4Problem 5
-
f5 13
5Problem 6f6A 5
6Problem 7f5+ 5
7Problem 8f6A 3
8Problem 10f6C 2
9The Second Nosef6B 3
 THE PUDDING STONE 
11Problem 1f4+ 16
12Problem 2
-
f5 26
13Pudding Fillerf4 3
14Problem 3f6C 10
 NORTH BUTTRESS 
16Short Wall
-
f4 21
17Merry Dancersf6A 7
18Undercut Arete
-
f6B 2
19Mini Powerf6C 8
20Aurora Borealisf4 4
21Northern Frightsf5+ 2
 ARETE LAND, HALLIONS ROCKS 
23Problem 10f5 61
24Pianof7B 3
25Fingersf7A 3
26The Long Reach
-
f6A 29
27The Long Reach SDSf7B 11
28Slapperf7A 159
29Clamperf7A+ 23
30Corner Crack
-
f4+ 44
31Problem 18f5 28
32Problem 19f5+ 19
33Classic Arete
-
f6A 87
34Shaftoe Blocf6C 2
35Problem 21f5+ 49
36Problem 22f5+ 34
37Problem 23f6A+ 28
38Problem 24f5+ 13
 SIX PACK 
40Six Pack Circuitf6B 7
41Lip Tripf6A+ 9
42Alexisf6B+ 14
 PUNISHMENT BLOCK 
44Green Line
-
f4+ 11
45Problem 29
-
f4 19
46Problem 30
-
f4 17
47Problem 32
-
f5+ 15
 DOLPHIN 
49Problem 36f6C 4
 THE INCLINED SLAB 
51Problem 38
-
f4+ 27
 GRINDSTONE 
 JUBILEE BOULDER 
 -----CENTRAL AREA----- 
 SALTER'S NICK 
56In the Nickf6A+ 3
57Sharp Arete
-
f6A 14
58Salt n Pepperf5+ 11
59Salt n Pepper Right Hand Sidef6A 4
60'S' Crack
-
f4 32
61Central Traversef6C 4
62Right-hand Traversef5+ 5
63Problem 10f5+ 5
64Small Boulder
-
f5 13
65Small Fryf4+ 2
66Syco Sheepf6C *4
67Full Nettle Jacketf5+ 2
68Finger Bowl
-
f4 11
69Chicken Ed
-
f4+ 7
70Problem 9f6C 2
 LOST ARROWHEAD LOWER BOULDER 
72Problem 17
-
f4+ 47
73Problem 18
-
f5+ 40
74Problem 19
-
f5+ 33
75Problem 20
-
f5 17
76Problem 20af6A+ 4
77Sunshowerf6A 7
78Rainshowerf6B 6
 LOST ARROWHEAD CAVE 
80Lost Slabf4 35
81Lost Groove
-
f4 47
82Axe Head
-
f6A 66
83Stone Age Manf7A+ 7
84Lost Arrowheadf6C 20
85Neolithic Man
-
f6B 31
86Cave Dwellerf7A+ 30
87Broken Arrow - Stone Age Man LinkV10 1
 CRUCIFIX BOULDER 
89Christmas Timef4 3
90Problem 31f6A 1
91Crucifix Crackf5 13
92Problem 33f5 3
93Problem 34f6C 2
 OYSTER ROCK (WALL BOULDER) 
 BOULDER IN THE WOODS 
 GATEWAY BUTTRESSES 
97Mrs Mops Problem 40f4 37
98Mrs Mops Problem 41f4 43
99Mrs Mops Problem 42f4 40
100Mrs Mops Problem 43f4 31
 THE RAVINE 
102Shallow Groove
-
f4 90
103Pocket Wall (problem 45)
-
f4 89
104Side Wall
-
f4 86
105Hidden Crackf6A 16
106Young's Aretef6B 15
107Easy Wall
-
f4 52
108Crack One
-
f5 57
109No Need for Speedf6C+ 6
110Smooth Wallf7A 37
111Crack Two
-
f4 86
112Buford T Justicef6C+ 54
113Pocket Wall (problem 53)
-
f5+ 65
114Problem 54f5+ 33
115Way Cool
-
f5 90
116Problem 56
-
f6A 43
117Problem 57
-
f5 37
118Low Level Traverse
-
f4 16
119Mid Level Traverse
-
f4+ 13
 THE BIG BIRCH 
121Problem 61
-
f4+ 5
122Problem 63f4 6
123Branch Leftf6A 3
124Branch Rightf6B 3
125Branch Right SDSf6C 2
126The Mantelf7A+ 4
 -----WESTERN EDGES----- 
 FONT BOULDER 
129Bleaustardf6A+ 29
130Purely Belterf8A **17
131Suprising Solutionf7A 79
132Font Centref7A 14
133Incipient Crackf6A 72
134Incipient Crack (sit start)f7A ***102
135Problem 5f6A 37
136Problem 5 Sit Startf6B 21
137Short Crack
-
f4+ 55
138Little Prowf6A 32
139Cuvier
-
f6A 40
140Final Prow
-
f4+ 42
141Font Traversef6C 58
142Reverse Traversef6B 8
 THE BUSINESS 
144Problem 14f7A 7
 STOLEN FROM IVOR 
146Groove One (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
147Groove Two (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
148Groove Three (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
149Top Traverse (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f6C 1
150Starting Something (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f6C 1
151Stolen from Ivor
-
f6C 1
152Stealing it Back (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f7A+ 1
 MINI OBELISK 
154Cliff's Slab
-
f4 23
 ASTRO 
 HAIR LIP 
 SMITH'S ROCKS 
158The Lipf7A 2
159The Scoop
-
f6B 25
160The Mask
-
f6C+ 23
161The Crackf4 16
162Milk and Cookiesf6A+ 11
163Knee Crackerf6A+ 7
164The Bunkerf6B 9
165The Edge
-
f6A 17
166Weasels Ripped my Fleshf6C 4
167Classic Arete (standing start)
-
f4 35
168Classic Arete (sit start)
-
f6B 18
169Clampf5+ **10
170Clamp Sit Startf6C 1
171City of Sand
-
f6B 8
172Problem 38
-
f6C 10
173Pebble Slabf6C 7
174Proposalf6C 17
 TURTLE ROCK 
176Turtle's Flipper Left-Hand
-
f5 14
177Turtle's Flipper Right-Hand
-
f5 12
178Underbelly
-
f5 16
179Soft Centref6A 36
180The Bossf7B **22
181Blood Sportf8A+ 1
182Bloodsport Left Hand Finishf8B+ 1
183Hard Shellf6C 12
184Hard Shell sit startf7A *2
185Darkness Beckons
-
f6A 44
186Darkness Beckons SDS (into the light)f6C *1
 NEB BOULDER 
188Power is Nothing Without Controlf7C ***9
189Crease Classic
-
f6B 48
190Broken Hearts Are For Assholesf7A+ 66
191The Neb Roof
-
f6C 110
192The Originalf6A **53
193Perverse Classicf6C *10
194Problem 58
-
f6A 13
195Problem 59
-
f5+ 11
196Sloper Masterclassf5+ ***170
197Problem 61
-
f6A 16
198Problem 62
-
f6B 38
199Aside
-
f6B 31
200Pure Endurancef7A 2
201All Neb's asidef7A+ 1
202Nebs Extentionf7A 1
203Nebs-Assholef7A 1
 -----SHAFTOE SUMMIT----- 
 DEAD PINE BUTTRESS 
206The Alligatorf5+ 2
207The Alligator Right-Handf6B 1
208Clueless Caiman Huntersf6A+ 1
209Living Fossilf6A 1
210Lightning Never Strikes Twicef5 2
211Problem 10
-
f5+ 3
212The Cowf6A  
 DISHPAN ALLEY 
214East Wall
-
f5+ 28
215Arete
-
f6A 24
216Problem 18
-
f4 43
217Problem 19f4+ 31
218Problem 20f5+ *19
219Problem 21
-
f5+ 28
220Problem 22
-
f5+ 40
221Rising Damp
-
f6B 25
222Corner
-
f4+ 29
223Mantel Madnessf6C ***38
224Problem 29
-
f5+ 14
22527. Troy's Eliminatef6B 1
226Blunt Nose
-
f6A+ 9
227Problem 31
-
f5+ 11
22828. Dishpan Alley Traverse
-
f5+ 1
229Problem 32
-
f4 17
 MAIN BUTTRESS 
231Problem 34 (standing start)
-
f5+ 8
232Viagra Plus
-
f6B+ 31
233Viagra Plus Sit Startf7B 40
234Sloppy Ploppinf6C 7
235Sloppy Ploppin S.Sf7C+ 1
236Central Wallf7B+ 3
237Main Wall
-
f6C 12
238Main Wall Sit Startf7B+ **18
239Timmy Tip Toesf7A+ *47
240Magic Fluting
-
f5 97
 FLUTED WALL 
242The Stingf6A+ 6
243Buzzingf6C 10
244Buzzing (sit start)f7A **7
 THE COB 
246Problem 48
-
f5+ 20
247Cob Arete
-
f5 106
248Problem 50
-
f6A 39
249Hound Dogf7A+ 12
250Killer Queenf6C 5
251Hip Hop
-
f6A 43
252Honeycomb Wall Traverse
-
f6C 55
253The Linkf6A 5
 SHIP'S BAIT CABIN 
255Problem 58f4 74
256Problem 59f4 67
257Problem 60f5 65
258The Thug
-
f5+ 38
259The Technician
-
f5+ 30
260Lip Traverse
-
f4 22
261Port
-
f5+ 62
262Galley Wall (standing start)
-
f4+ 58
263Galley Wall (sit start)
-
f6A *37
264Wolf
-
f6B 25
265Starboard
-
f5 76
266Bow Wave
-
f6A 41
267Lost Crack (standing start)
-
f5 21
268Lost Crack (sit start)
-
f5+ 26
269Bait Boxedf7A ***1
 SHAFTOE GRANGE FARM BUTTRESSES 
271Cow Patf5+ 5
 -----SHAFTOE SOUTH----- 
 RUDDER'S BOULDERS 
274Rudyard
-
f5+ 4
 THE SEADOG BOULDER 
 PUNCH BOWL 
277Black Puddingf7A *1
278Problem 7f6C 1
279Duvel 8.5%f7A 22
280Problem 10f5+ 14
281Canine
-
f6A 11
2820% Alcoholf7A 2
283Problem 12f6C 1
 CAVE BUTTRESS 
285Flake Crackf4+ 10
286Pocket Rocketf7A 34
287The Wallf4+ 3
288Orangutanf6C 1
 LITTLE DAL BUTTRESS 
290The Scoop
-
f4 2
291The Wallf6B 2
292Little Crackf4 1
293Little Johnf5 1
294Slab Arete
-
f4 5
295Little and Oftenf6B+ *1
296Problem 26
-
f4+ 4
 LONG WALL 
2983 Fingers, 1 Pebble.f6C 1
299Wickermanf6B 2
300Wickerman SSf6B+ 2
301Wicker aretef6C 2
302Wickerman Warm Upf4 1
 MINISCULE MATTERHORN 
304Problem 28
-
f4 9
305Problem 29
-
f4 6
 Cafe Noir 
307Cafe NoirE4 5c **1
 CENTRAL ALCOVE 
309Problem 34
-
f4 5
310The antlerf7A 1
311Butch Catch-Me and the Campus Board Kidf6C+ 7
 TWO TIER BOULDER 
313Tears in Heavenf5+ 5
314River of Tearsf7B+ *1
315Tears on the Dance Floorf6B+ 3
316Edge of Sanityf5 4
317Two Tier Crackf4+  
 CYCLOPS BUTTRESS 
319Green Wallf4 9
320Left Arete
-
f4+ 10
321Cyclops Wallf5 6
322Right Aretef5 4
323The Scoopf4+ 3
324Side Wallf4+ 3
 HALFWAY HOUSE 
 ROADSIDE BOULDER 
327The lip sit startf7A+ 2
328Spinal Tapf7C **3
329Spinal tap RHf7B+ *1
330Slim Shady (standing start)
-
f6A 69
331Slim shady (sit start)f7A **87
332Real Slim Shadyf7A+ ***37
333Real Slim Shady (Left Hand)f7B ***3
334Intermittent Crackf5+ 42
335Not to be Taken Awayf5 49
336Roadside Wallf7C+ 1
337Roadside Aretef5 27
 UNSORTED 
339Problem 61f4 3
340Perpetual Motion
-
f7C ** 
341Problem 63
-
f4 7
342Problem 12
-
f6B 1

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