Shaftoe Crags

Climbs 255 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Primarily a bouldering venue, and a bloody good one at that. There are hundreds of problems strewn all over the moor, with easy stuff to mega desperates. The routes are all on the Southern Escarpment (the bit visible from the main road).

Access notes
From Belsay on the A696, head for Bolam Lakes. Go past the lake car park on the right to a crossroads, turn left along an unmetalled road past a row of cottages. Park by the wall on the moor just over the cattle grid. Be sure to keep your speed down.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 -----SHAFTOE NORTH---- 
 THE RIFT 
3First Problemf6A
4Problem 5f5
5Problem 6f6A
6Problem 7f5+
7Problem 8f6A
8Problem 10f6C
9The Second Nosef6B
 THE PUDDING STONE 
11Problem 1f4+
12Problem 2f5
13Pudding Fillerf4
14Problem 3f6C
 NORTH BUTTRESS 
16Short Wallf4
17Merry Dancersf6A
18Undercut Aretef6B
19Mini Powerf6C
20Aurora Borealisf4
21Northern Frightsf5+
 ARETE LAND, HALLIONS ROCKS 
23Problem 10f5
24Pianof7B
25Fingersf7A
26The Long Reachf6A
27The Long Reach SDSf7B
28Slapperf7A
29Clamperf7A+
30Corner Crackf4+
31Problem 18f5
32Problem 19f5+
33Classic Aretef6A
34Shaftoe Blocf6C
35Problem 21f5+
36Problem 22f5+
37Problem 23f6A+
38Problem 24f5+
 SIX PACK 
40Six Pack Circuitf6B
41Lip Tripf6A+
42Alexisf6B+
 PUNISHMENT BLOCK 
44Green Linef4+
45Problem 29f4
46Problem 30f4
47Problem 32f5+
 DOLPHIN 
49Problem 36f6C
 THE INCLINED SLAB 
51Problem 38f4+
 GRINDSTONE 
 JUBILEE BOULDER 
 -----CENTRAL AREA----- 
 SALTER'S NICK 
56In the Nickf6A+
57Sharp Aretef6A
58Salt n Pepperf5+
59Salt n Pepper Right Hand Sidef6A
60'S' Crackf4
61Central Traversef6C
62Right-hand Traversef5+
63Problem 10f5+
64Small Boulderf5
65Small Fryf4+
66Syco Sheepf6C *
67Full Nettle Jacketf5+
68Finger Bowlf4
69Chicken Edf4+
 LOST ARROWHEAD LOWER BOULDER 
71Problem 17f4+
72Problem 18f5+
73Problem 19f5+
74Problem 20f5
75Problem 20af6A+
76Sunshowerf6A
77Rainshowerf6B
 LOST ARROWHEAD CAVE 
79Lost Slabf4
80Lost Groovef4
81Axe Headf6A
82Stone Age Manf7A+
83Lost Arrowheadf6C
84Neolithic Manf6B
85Cave Dwellerf7A+
 CRUCIFIX BOULDER 
87Christmas Timef4
88Problem 31f6A
89Crucifix Crackf5
90Problem 33f5
91Problem 34f6C
 OYSTER ROCK (WALL BOULDER) 
 BOULDER IN THE WOODS 
 GATEWAY BUTTRESSES 
95Mrs Mops Problem 40f4
96Mrs Mops Problem 41f4
97Mrs Mops Problem 42f4
98Mrs Mops Problem 43f4
 THE RAVINE 
100Shallow Groovef4
101Pocket Wall (problem 45)f4
102Side Wallf4
103Hidden Crackf6A
104Young's Aretef6B
105Easy Wallf4
106Crack Onef5
107No Need for Speedf6C+
108Smooth Wallf7A
109Crack Twof4
110Buford T Justicef6C+
111Pocket Wall (problem 53)f5+
112Problem 54f5+
113Way Coolf5
114Problem 56f6A
115Problem 57f5
116Low Level Traversef4
117Mid Level Traversef4+
 THE BIG BIRCH 
119Problem 61f4+
120Problem 63f4
121The Mantelf7A+
 -----WESTERN EDGES----- 
 FONT BOULDER 
124Bleaustardf6A+
125Purely Belterf8A **
126Suprising Solutionf7A
127Font Centref7A
128Incipient Crackf6A
129Incipient Crack (sit start)f7A ***
130Problem 5f6A
131Problem 5 Sit Startf6B
132Short Crackf4+
133Little Prowf6A
134Cuvierf6A
135Final Prowf4+
136Font Traversef6C
137Reverse Traversef6B
 THE BUSINESS 
139Problem 14f7A
 STOLEN FROM IVOR 
 MINI OBELISK 
142Cliff's Slabf4
 ASTRO 
 HAIR LIP 
 SMITH'S ROCKS 
146The Lipf7A
147The Scoopf6B
148The Maskf6C+
149The Crackf4
150Milk and Cookiesf6A+
151Knee Crackerf6A+
152The Bunkerf6B
153The Edgef6A
154Weasels Ripped my Fleshf6C
155Classic Arete (standing start)f4
156Classic Arete (sit start)f6B
157Clampf5+ **
158City of Sandf6B
159Problem 38f6C
160Pebble Slabf6C
161Proposalf6C
 TURTLE ROCK 
163Turtle's Flipper Left-Handf5
164Turtle's Flipper Right-Handf5
165Underbellyf5
166Soft Centref6A
167The Bossf7B **
168Blood Sportf8A+
169Bloodsport Left Hand Finishf8B+
170Hard Shellf6C
171Darkness Beckonsf6A
 NEB BOULDER 
173Power is Nothing Without Controlf7C ***
174Crease Classicf6B
175Broken Hearts Are For Assholesf7A+
176The Neb Rooff6C
177The Originalf6A **
178Perverse Classicf6C *
179Problem 58f6A
180Problem 59f5+
181Sloper Masterclassf5+ ***
182Problem 61f6A
183Problem 62f6B
184Asidef6B
 -----SHAFTOE SUMMIT----- 
 DEAD PINE BUTTRESS 
187The Alligatorf5+
188The Alligator Right-Handf6B
189Clueless Caiman Huntersf6A+
190Living Fossilf6A
191Lightning Never Strikes Twicef5
192Problem 10f5+
193The Cowf6A
 DISHPAN ALLEY 
195East Wallf5+
196Aretef6A
197Problem 18f4
198Problem 19f4+
199Problem 20f5+ *
200Problem 21f5+
201Problem 22f5+
202Rising Dampf6B
203Cornerf4+
204Mantel Madnessf6C ***
205Problem 29f5+
206Blunt Nosef6A+
207Problem 31f5+
208Problem 32f4
 MAIN BUTTRESS 
210Problem 34 (standing start)f5+
211Viagra Plusf6B+
212Viagra Plus Sit Startf7B
213Sloppy Ploppinf6C
214Sloppy Ploppin S.Sf7C+
215Central Wallf7B+
216Main Wallf6C
217Main Wall Sit Startf7B+ **
218Timmy Tip Toesf7A+ *
219Magic Flutingf5
 FLUTED WALL 
221The Stingf6A+
222Buzzingf6C
223Buzzing (sit start)f7A **
 THE COB 
225Problem 48f5+
226Cob Aretef5
227Problem 50f6A
228Hound Dogf7A+
229Killer Queenf6C
230Hip Hopf6A
231Honeycomb Wall Traversef6C
232The Linkf6A
 SHIP'S BAIT CABIN 
234Problem 58f4
235Problem 59f4
236Problem 60f5
237The Thugf5+
238The Technicianf5+
239Lip Traversef4
240Portf5+
241Galley Wall (standing start)f4+
242Galley Wall (sit start)f6A *
243Wolff6B
244Starboardf5
245Bow Wavef6A
246Lost Crack (standing start)f5
247Lost Crack (sit start)f5+
 SHAFTOE GRANGE FARM BUTTRESSES 
249Cow Patf5+
 -----SHAFTOE SOUTH----- 
 RUDDER'S BOULDERS 
252Rudyardf5+
 THE SEADOG BOULDER 
 PUNCH BOWL 
255Black Puddingf7A *
256Problem 7f6C
257Duvel 8.5%f7A
258Problem 10f5+
259Caninef6A
260Problem 12f6C
 CAVE BUTTRESS 
262Flake Crackf4+
263Pocket Rocketf7A
264The Wallf4+
 LITTLE DAL BUTTRESS 
266The Scoopf4
267The Wallf6B
268Little Crackf4
269Little Johnf5
270Slab Aretef4
271Little and Oftenf6B+ *
272Problem 26f4+
 LONG WALL 
 MINISCULE MATTERHORN 
275Problem 28f4
276Problem 29f4
 CAFE NOIR 
278Cafe NoirE4 5c **
 CENTRAL ALCOVE 
280Problem 34f4
281Butch Catch-Me and the Campus Board Kidf6C+
 TWO TIER BOULDER 
283Tears in Heavenf5+
284River of Tearsf7B+ *
285Tears on the Dance Floorf6B+
286Edge of Sanityf5
 CYCLOPS BUTTRESS 
288Green Wallf4
289Left Aretef4+
290Cyclops Wallf5
291Right Aretef5
292The Scoopf4+
293Side Wallf4+
 HALFWAY HOUSE 
 ROADSIDE BOULDER 
296The lip sit startf7A+
297Spinal Tapf7C **
298Slim Shady (standing start)f6A
299Slim shady (sit start)f7A **
300Real Slim Shadyf7A+ ***
301Real Slim Shady (Left Hand)f7B ***
302Intermittent Crackf5+
303Not to be Taken Awayf5
304Roadside Wallf7C+
305Roadside Aretef5
306Problem 61f4
307Problem 63f4
308Problem 12 f6B
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer rodge

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
*CAUTION* Climbed here today (23/08/13) and on the way back to the cars found a very big BULL in the fields with the cows.
DaveB_86 - 23/Aug/13
Can be very wet and boggy on walk in. Mind the cattle they can be very easily spooked
Fluvial - 06/Aug/12
Extremely sad.
Ian Jones - 09/Apr/12
Was there today and parked at the second 'limited' parking spot closest to the pond. Arrived back to find a very polite letter explaining that parking here now should not happen and that we should all use the top parking area after the first cattle grid. Letter said information had been posted on 'the website' which i assume is UKbouldering. Here's me sharing it with all of you. TLDR; Park beside wall at first cattle grid and walk down. Pond area is about to be worked on.
sneaks - 19/Apr/11
Amazing place to climb. Lots of good problems spread out over quite a large area. Only real issue is that people seem to climb mainly on 3 or 4 boulders/walls so most of the place is dirty and needs more traffic.
pigeonjim - 26/Aug/10
The rock is from the same deposit as Rothley, It's called Ingoe Grit. Whoever said there was no grit in Northumberland should look up Jack Rock.
JDal - 17/May/10
I've seen it written up as a type of gritstone, as well as a coarse sandstone. It's completely different in texture from the Fell Sandstone of Bowden etc, so I thought it worth calling it gritstone just to made the difference clear. I can change it if it bothers you!
Stuart S - 06/Mar/09
Gritstone!?!?! There isnt any in Northumberland! This Crag is Sandstone
benj_d - 05/Mar/09
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 27/May/2014
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