Bovey Woods

Climbs 600 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces ?

Crag features

A huge area comprising of five main sectors - Shaptor Rock, Lower Shaptor, Rock Copse, Bearacleave and Stonelands Waste. Classic problems of all grades, bring a brush and be prepared to invest a little time in 'getting orientated'.


http://shaptor.wikifoundry.com/ has topos, information on new problems, videos and pics.

Access notes

Keep a low profile. Land owned by Woodland Trust and National Trust.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SHAPTOR ROCK  
2EnterprisingV4 6b **2
3Pink MoonV3 6a **32
4Wasa DynoV5 6b **9
5Slotted WallV7 6b/c ***23
6Slotted Wall LHV8+ 6c *** 
7Slotted Wall TraverseV8+ 6c *** 
8Mr SoloV4 6b *1
9Yahoo-ruV6 6b/c **3
10William ShaptorV8+ 6c ***2
11BonesV4 6a/b **1
12The Long Wall TraverseV3 6a **7
13SpiderlandV7 6b ***7
14...For DinnerV3 6a **10
15TweezV3 6a 4
16Good Morning CaptainV3 6a *2
17Buena VistaV9 6c ** 
18Phil's AreteV3 6a *4
19GenesisV4 6b **4
20The Soft MachineV4 6a/b *5
21SpringsteenV3 6a *6
22Fern BritainV2 6a *7
23Trees Are This CoolV2 6a *2
24Space OddityV3 6a/b **2
25Sound & VisionV2 5c *2
26HeroesV5 6a/b **4
27LowV6 6b/c **4
28Tin MachineV4 6b 4
29Infinite MonkeyV3 6a *1
30Calcaneum CrisisV7 6c ***1
31Flettner 2000V4 6b ** 
32Outrageous GraceV5 6b **3
33Grumpy FaceV4 6a/b *1
34The MeadowlandsV3 6a **5
35Sunnyside TraverseV4 6b *4
36The Tilted HeartV5 6b ***4
37Jilted TartV4 6a/b **5
38The VentricleV4 6b *4
39Tiger BalmV4 6b ***4
40Tiger in the WoodsV4 6b **2
 LOWER SHAPTOR  
42Bad PittV3 6a *8
43CockadoodledooV2 5c 2
44Bosi BulgeV3 6a/b *6
45The WalnutV3 6a/b *7
46Walnut TraverseV7 6b/c ** 
47Tom Was 'EreV2 6a *3
48The SnatchV2 6a/b *1
49Go ApeV6 6a/b ***1
50SaraV4 5c 1
51Third Time LuckyV4 6b *2
52Worse PitV2 5c *1
53YodaV4 6b **2
54Gallic BaldmanV3 6a **3
55ArchangletteV0 5b *4
56The LizardV3 6a *3
57DanielV3 6a **7
58KirstineV5 6b ***5
59The Big ChillV5 6b **1
60The WoodsmanV6 6c ***6
61Cavey DavyV9 6c/7a ** 
62KaputtV4 6a/b **1
63LandlineV4 6b *3
64SkylineV6 6a/b ***1
65Alpaca ManV5 6b *3
66Anty MatterV6 6a/b **1
67MatterV3 6a/b *3
68On The BlobV0 5a *3
69Mr UnblobbyV5 6b *1
70Green GiantV3 6a 2
71Bulging WallV8 6c ** 
72Club FootV3 6a *1
73BarnestormerV3 6a **8
74The Norman ConquestV3 6a/b *3
75Gerty GertbucketsV6 6b **1
76MuseV4 6b **3
77Jabba The HutV4 6a/b ** 
78MoonshineV5 6b/c **3
79Diamond GeezerV4 6a *1
80Cubic BosomV6 6b ***2
81Cubic BoronV3 6a ***4
82Boron AreteV7 6c *** 
83CalmerV5 6b **1
84Calmer SutraV6 6b **2
85Gully CatchV4 6b **2
86NostromoV4 6b **4
87KurtzV6 6b/c **3
88Chesney HawkesV3 6a ** 
89The Jungle BookV8+ 6b/c *** 
90BaluV4 6a ***2
91Lord JimV2 5c **1
92The PoacherV3 6a *6
93The Poacher Sit StartV5 6b **3
94Over EasyV4 6b *2
95Back To The EggV3 6a/b *1
96Kidney Stone MonkeyV5 6b **8
97Organ DonorV6 6b/c ***3
98Renal AreteV2 5c/6a *12
99DialysisV6 6a/b *4
100Power GruntV5 6b/c 3
101GrindermanV4 6a/b *11
102The Bad SeedV5 6b **4
103Red Right HandV6 6b/c **1
104Snake ByteV4 6b **10
105Soon To Be Taken AwayV3 6a **2
106Plymouth 6bV5 6b/c *1
107AstroboyV3 6a **8
108Midnight ThunderV3 6a ***5
109SlacklineV6 6b ***4
110Dying LightV3 6a * 
111ShimmerV3 6a ***7
112Heat HazeV5 6b **1
113Shimmer Me TimbersV4 6b * 
114TaumaranuiV5 6b/c **5
115Finger Ripping GoodV7 6b/c **6
116Taumaranui/Finger Ripping Good LinkV8 6c *** 
117Back of BeyondV4 6a/b **2
118TripwireV3 6a *2
 STONELANDS  
120Breadcrumb TrailV4 6a/b ***14
121Breadcrumb Trail AssisV6 6b *** 
122Red Dot TraverseV1 5b 4
123Red Dot AreteV5 6b/c *7
124Ellen's DynoV4 6b **2
125Show It The CrowV6 6b **4
126Right SlapperV4 6b 2
127Mr AvocadoV3 6a **2
128The Big SplitV3 6a **8
129PepeV6 6b/c **2
130Green Dot SlapV5 6b ** 
131Mantle AsylumV3 6a **5
132Green Dot TraverseV8 6b/c ***6
133Dot Green TraverseV8+ 6b/c *** 
134Beyond The ThresholdV4 6b **8
135Klimt AreteV3 6a *3
136Rotational SymmetryV1 5b *4
137BummedV2 5c *6
138Rainbow GiftV0 5a **6
139The KnaveV6 6c **4
140The NavelV9 7a *** 
141The Guest ListV2 5c **6
142Simon's LayawayV2 5c *3
143Simon's WallV2 5c *5
144Jason's ProblemV4 6b *3
145Terror TwilightV5 6b ***7
146Terror Twilight DeluxeV7 6b/c ***2
147Skinny GraftV3 6a *1
148Trench SnatchV3 6a *1
149Fence OffV4 6b/c * 
150Kevlar ManV5 6b **1
151Barking MadlyV4 6b *4
152The Tank TraverseV4 6b *3
153Back to BusinessV3 6a *5
154The Whale LHSV0- 4c 6
155The Whale MiddleV1 5c/6a 4
156The Whale RHSV0 5b 6
157Home RunV1 5c *2
158The First BaseV0 4c 2
159One Yard In, One Yard UpV1 5c 2
160The Whole Nine YardsV5 6b **8
161Jet StreamV3 6a/b **3
162AirstreamV7 6c ***3
163Astral ScoutV3 6a *6
164The Space BombV3 5c **1
165Yuri GargarinV5 6a/b ***7
 ROCK COPSE  
167Spore WarsV4 6a *1
168The Trans-RebounderV2 6a *1
169ExcavationV2 5c *2
170Highball WallV3 6a **1
171Tago MagoV4 6a/b **5
172JJMV4 6b **4
173Ege BamyasiV4 6a/b **6
174Cad's SitterV6 6c *3
175Suffering SuperpantsV3 6a/b **1
176Uphill SloggiV6 6c *1
177Ants In My PantsV7 6c *1
178Peni AreteV6 6c *1
179The Predator MonsterV3 6a *1
180The Boy With Perpetual NervousnessV5 6b ***1
181Low Balls AreteV1 5b *1
182The Squeeze TraverseV3 6a *2
183GoodfellasV3 6a *5
184Rear of the YearV3 5c **1
185Buttcheek SurferV1 5b *6
186Buttock TraverseV2 5c **5
187Buttock Traverse super extensionV2 5b/c 2
188TGJV3 5c ***5
189MPMV5 6a/b **2
190Silk Purse TraverseV5 6b **4
191The Sow's EarV4 6a/b **6
192The Silken SowV6 6b **4
193Breach BirthV2 5c *1
194UndercoverV5 6b ***2
195Ronjohn's RoofV3 6a **1
196Tears of RageV4 6b *1
197Punk Rock GirlV4 6a/b **2
198Hot and BotheredV4 6a/b *1
199MorphV3 6a *2
200MindyV5 6b **4
201UnderdogV6 6c **6
202Sniffer DogV7 6c ** 
203Lazy ColonV7 6c ** 
204Dog SnifferV8 6c ** 
205GnasherV6 6b/c **6
206Dog LegV4 6b *2
207Ant SlabV0 5b ** 
208Dog Dick AreteV4 6a/b ***13
209Fissure de Cul de ChienV3 5c *1
210Green FingersV4 6a *3
211Avant GardenerV4 6b **8
212Colonic IrrigationV4 6a **5
213Cream T-CrackV5 6a/b **4
214Orson's Colonic IrritationV4 6a *3
215JazzV2 6a **1
216JaseV4 6b *1
217JezV1 5b/c 2
 BEARACLEAVE  
219The BBBV4 6a ***4
220BBBDV6 6b/c ***1
221The Beast of BearacleaveV5 6b ***1
222The Lonesome Crowded WestV6 6b/c **1
223Halcyon TraverseV4 6a/b *4
224The Curly BracketV4 6b **5
225Oxford CommaV0 5b 3
226Bad GrammarV4 6b 1
227Yellow SubmarineV4 6b *6
228Red OctoberV7 6c ***2
229Spooky ThrutchV3 5c 3
230Spooky Tree TraverseV5 6b **6
231Squirrel SlabV4 6a *4
232Nevermind the BuzzardsV4 6b **5
233GizaV3 6a 2
234ScorebagV4 6a/b *8
235BawbagV6 6b/c ** 
236Bend it Like BekhamV4 5c/6a ***31
237SiroccoV4 6b/c **1
238Mt Heart AttackV3 6a/b **3
239The Xmas BluesV3 6a/b *2
240Spiky DampV2 5c 3
241The Blair Witch ProjectV4 6b/c *2
242American Squeeze JobV7 6c ** 
243Mornington CrescentV3 6a ***19
244Bovey BoysV3 6a **20
245Bovey StraightV5 6b/c **2
246SwansongV5 6b **6
247Black SwansongV7 6b/c ***2
248Le Fin de la FinV3 6a/b **10
249Smile MoreV3 6a/b *7
250Waller TowerV2 6a 2
251The Towering InfernalV4 6a/b *2
252The WashbasinV3 6a/b **8
253Do The PachacutiV1 5c *8
254Roger MellyV2 6a *5
255TV EyeV2 5c **12
256Ante's AreteV6 6b ** 
257Little ArithmeticsV4 6a/b **7
258Trevor McDonaldV5 6b **2
259Bubbles from AmsterdamV6 6b ***4
260KazoomV3 6b *2
261The BlimpV2 5c 4
262Flying Spaghetti MonsterV5 6b/c **8
263Dinky ToysV4 6b **3
264Tonka TraverseV4 6b **5
265BandersnatchV4 6b *1
266Name for a LaughV2 5c *2
267The Blobby BandV3 6a/b **3
268The SerpentV4 6b **5
269Ape Index AreteV5 6b/c *1
270The Metolious MantleV0 5b 2
271KormaV3 6a *2
272Big 'EdV1 5c 3
273PanjandrumV3 6a *4
274Panjandrum Lip TraverseV2 6a 2
275Love BugsV0+ 5a/b ***1
276UnderstandingV3 6a **4
277Lateral ThinkingV4 6b **2
278Devon SentV10 6c ***3
279Nether EdgeV7 6c ***4
280B MovieV3 6b 8
281The Bear HuntV7 6c **1
282Full Length FeatureV3 6a **17
283The Modern DanceV8 6c **2
284Beara BoogieV4 6a/b **2
28599V3 6a *1
286The Yak's NoseV4 6b **2
287Bearaburger TraverseV5 6b **2
288Tesco HorseburgerV3 6a *1
289The MuckBovey BurgerV2 5c *2
290Careless PorkV4 6b *2
291Eggs and GammonV3 6a *5
292Poor RhiannonV6 6b/c ***6
293Mastic Medic LHV3 6a *3
294Mastic Medic RHV4 6b *2
295The Green TravestyV5 6b **3
296The Unbearable Likelihood of Being SquishedV2 5c *2
 WILDERNESS AND BELOW THE PATH  
298Gnarly DudeV6 6b *1
299Sweet DudeV1 5b **5
300Punter's TraverseV1 5b *1
301Steep Dude TraverseV5 6b **3
302Dudely MooreV4 6b *3
303Hey Dude!V2 5c **4
304Horny RidgeV3 6a/b *5
305Horny WallV4 6b **2
306Butter BunV4 6a *2
307HovisV1 5b *2
308The Pig NestV3 6a/b **5
309LianeV5 6b ** 
310The Wilderness TraverseV4 6b ** 
311The Pipe AreteV5 6b/c **2
312Smokin'V5 6b **3
313The Dharma InitiativeV3 6a/b *2
314Jakob's LadderV6 6b ***1
315The OthersV6 6b/c **1
316The Lost BoysV6 6b ** 
317P1 Waller slab *V0 5b 2
318P4 Waller slab *V2 5c 2
319P8 Middle Terrace *V1 5c **1
320P16 Middle Terrace *V2 6a 1
321P17 Middle Terrace *V2 6a 1
322CURLY BRACKET BLOCK PROB 11 *V2 6a 2
323BECKHAM BLOCK PROB NO 8 *V0 5b 2
324PANJANDRUM LOW TRAVERSE REVERSE !! *V2 *1
325P5 Highball Wall *V0 4c 1
326P3 Stonelands *V0 5b 2
327P6 Stonelands *V0 4c 3
328P7 Stonelands *V0 4c 3
329P10 Stonelands *V1 5b/c 1
330P11 Stonelands *V0 5b 2
331The Cardioid *V3 6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomrainbow

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Hey, I've put together a pretty accurate map for Bovey woods, and please message me if you want a copy. It's basically the coordinates (and names) for the boulders, which are used with a smartphone app to find your way! Dan
Dan 85 - 16/Apr/15
The wiki site has changed its address to: http://shaptor.wikifoundry.com/ Directions and parking details have been added.
tomrainbow - 12/Jan/14
Is there a rough map available anywhere? The only one I can find are the sketches on shaptor.wetpaint.com, which are brilliant, if you know where you are/where the rocks are anyway. The sketches dont seem to match up with OS maps?
tomwheeler - 23/May/11
Named problems constitute about a third of the climbed problems in the Woods. For more detailed info, topos, video footage, comment etc visit http://shaptor.wetpaint.com/
tomrainbow - 15/Jan/09