Bovey Woods

Climbs 600 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces ?

Crag features

A huge area comprising of five main sectors - Shaptor Rock, Lower Shaptor, Rock Copse, Bearacleave and Stonelands Waste. Classic problems of all grades, bring a brush and be prepared to invest a little time in 'getting orientated'.


http://shaptor.wikifoundry.com/ has topos, information on new problems, videos and pics.

Access notes

Keep a low profile. Land owned by Woodland Trust and National Trust.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SHAPTOR ROCK  
2EnterprisingV4 6b **2
3Pink MoonV3 6a **32
4Wasa DynoV5 6b **9
5Slotted WallV7 6b/c ***23
6Slotted Wall LHV8+ 6c *** 
7Slotted Wall TraverseV8+ 6c *** 
8Mr SoloV4 6b *1
9Yahoo-ruV6 6b/c **3
10William ShaptorV8+ 6c ***2
11BonesV4 6a/b **1
12The Long Wall TraverseV3 6a **7
13SpiderlandV7 6b ***7
14...For DinnerV3 6a **10
15TweezV3 6a 4
16Good Morning CaptainV3 6a *2
17Buena VistaV9 6c ** 
18Phil's AreteV3 6a *4
19GenesisV4 6b **4
20The Soft MachineV4 6a/b *5
21SpringsteenV3 6a *6
22Fern BritainV2 6a *7
23Trees Are This CoolV2 6a *2
24Space OddityV3 6a/b **2
25Sound & VisionV2 5c *2
26HeroesV5 6a/b **4
27LowV6 6b/c **4
28Tin MachineV4 6b 4
29Infinite MonkeyV3 6a *1
30Calcaneum CrisisV7 6c ***1
31Flettner 2000V4 6b ** 
32Outrageous GraceV5 6b **3
33Grumpy FaceV4 6a/b *1
34The MeadowlandsV3 6a **5
35Sunnyside TraverseV4 6b *4
36The Tilted HeartV5 6b ***4
37Jilted TartV4 6a/b **5
38The VentricleV4 6b *4
39Tiger BalmV4 6b ***4
40Tiger in the WoodsV4 6b **2
 LOWER SHAPTOR  
42Bad PittV3 6a *8
43CockadoodledooV2 5c 2
44Bosi BulgeV3 6a/b *6
45The WalnutV3 6a/b *7
46Walnut TraverseV7 6b/c ** 
47Tom Was 'EreV2 6a *3
48The SnatchV2 6a/b *1
49Go ApeV6 6a/b ***1
50SaraV4 5c 1
51Third Time LuckyV4 6b *2
52Worse PitV2 5c *1
53YodaV4 6b **2
54Gallic BaldmanV3 6a **3
55ArchangletteV0 5b *4
56The LizardV3 6a *3
57DanielV3 6a **7
58KirstineV5 6b ***5
59The Big ChillV5 6b **1
60The WoodsmanV6 6c ***6
61Cavey DavyV9 6c/7a ** 
62KaputtV4 6a/b **1
63LandlineV4 6b *3
64SkylineV6 6a/b ***1
65Alpaca ManV5 6b *3
66Anty MatterV6 6a/b **1
67MatterV3 6a/b *3
68On The BlobV0 5a *3
69Mr UnblobbyV5 6b *1
70Green GiantV3 6a 2
71Bulging WallV8 6c ** 
72Club FootV3 6a *1
73BarnestormerV3 6a **8
74The Norman ConquestV3 6a/b *3
75Gerty GertbucketsV6 6b **1
76MuseV4 6b **3
77Jabba The HutV4 6a/b ** 
78MoonshineV5 6b/c **3
79Diamond GeezerV4 6a *1
80Cubic BosomV6 6b ***2
81Cubic BoronV3 6a ***4
82Boron AreteV7 6c *** 
83CalmerV5 6b **1
84Calmer SutraV6 6b **2
85Gully CatchV4 6b **2
86NostromoV4 6b **4
87KurtzV6 6b/c **3
88Chesney HawkesV3 6a ** 
89The Jungle BookV8+ 6b/c *** 
90BaluV4 6a ***2
91Lord JimV2 5c **1
92The PoacherV3 6a *6
93The Poacher Sit StartV5 6b **3
94Over EasyV4 6b *2
95Back To The EggV3 6a/b *1
96Kidney Stone MonkeyV5 6b **8
97Organ DonorV6 6b/c ***3
98Renal AreteV2 5c/6a *12
99DialysisV6 6a/b *4
100Power GruntV5 6b/c 3
101GrindermanV4 6a/b *11
102The Bad SeedV5 6b **4
103Red Right HandV6 6b/c **1
104Snake ByteV4 6b **10
105Soon To Be Taken AwayV3 6a **2
106Plymouth 6bV5 6b/c *1
107AstroboyV3 6a **8
108Midnight ThunderV3 6a ***5
109SlacklineV6 6b ***4
110Dying LightV3 6a * 
111ShimmerV3 6a ***7
112Heat HazeV5 6b **1
113Shimmer Me TimbersV4 6b * 
114TaumaranuiV5 6b/c **5
115Finger Ripping GoodV7 6b/c **6
116Taumaranui/Finger Ripping Good LinkV8 6c *** 
117Back of BeyondV4 6a/b **2
118TripwireV3 6a *2
 STONELANDS  
120Red Dot PullV0 5b 3
121Breadcrumb TrailV4 6a/b ***14
122Breadcrumb Trail AssisV6 6b *** 
123The Golden RatioV0 4c **4
124Red Dot SlabV0 4c 4
125Red Dot TraverseV1 5b 4
126Red Dot AreteV5 6b/c *7
127Drought ScoopV1 5b/c *2
128The Ramp LineV0 5b 3
129Ellen's DynoV4 6b **2
130Show It The CrowV6 6b **4
131Right SlapperV4 6b 2
132Mr AvocadoV3 6a **2
133The Big SplitV3 6a **8
134PepeV6 6b/c **2
135Green Dot SlapV5 6b ** 
136Mantle AsylumV3 6a **5
137Green Dot TraverseV8 6b/c ***6
138Dot Green TraverseV8+ 6b/c *** 
139Beyond The ThresholdV4 6b **8
140The CardioidV3 6a 2
141Klimt AreteV3 6a *3
142Rotational SymmetryV1 5b *4
143BummedV2 5c *6
144Rainbow GiftV0 5a **6
145The KnaveV6 6c **4
146The NavelV9 7a *** 
147The Guest ListV2 5c **6
148Simon's LayawayV2 5c *3
149Simon's WallV2 5c *5
150Jason's ProblemV4 6b *4
151Terror TwilightV5 6b ***7
152Terror Twilight DeluxeV7 6b/c ***2
153Skinny GraftV3 6a *1
154Trench SnatchV3 6a *1
155Fence OffV4 6b/c * 
156Kevlar ManV5 6b **1
157Barking MadlyV4 6b *5
158The Tank TraverseV4 6b *3
159Back to BusinessV3 6a *5
160The Whale LHSV0- 4c 6
161The Whale MiddleV1 5c/6a 4
162The Whale RHSV0 5b 6
163Home RunV1 5c *2
164The First BaseV0 4c 2
165One Yard In, One Yard UpV1 5c 2
166The Whole Nine YardsV5 6b **8
167Jet StreamV3 6a/b **3
168AirstreamV7 6c ***3
169Astral ScoutV3 6a *6
170The Space BombV3 5c **1
171Yuri GargarinV5 6a/b ***7
 ROCK COPSE  
173Spore WarsV4 6a *1
174The Trans-RebounderV2 6a *1
175ExcavationV2 5c *2
176The FootledgeV0 4c 2
177Highball WallV3 6a **1
178Tago MagoV4 6a/b **5
179JJMV4 6b **4
180Ege BamyasiV4 6a/b **6
181Cad's SitterV6 6c *3
182Suffering SuperpantsV3 6a/b **1
183Uphill SloggiV6 6c *1
184Ants In My PantsV7 6c *1
185Peni AreteV6 6c *1
186The Predator MonsterV3 6a *1
187The Boy With Perpetual NervousnessV5 6b ***1
188Low Balls AreteV1 5b *1
189The Squeeze TraverseV3 6a *2
190GoodfellasV3 6a *5
191Rear of the YearV3 5c **1
192Buttcheek SurferV1 5b *6
193Buttock TraverseV2 5c **5
194Buttock Traverse super extensionV2 5b/c 2
195TGJV3 5c ***5
196MPMV5 6a/b **2
197Silk Purse TraverseV5 6b **4
198The Sow's EarV4 6a/b **6
199The Silken SowV6 6b **4
200Breach BirthV2 5c *1
201UndercoverV5 6b ***2
202Ronjohn's RoofV3 6a **1
203Tears of RageV4 6b *1
204Punk Rock GirlV4 6a/b **2
205Hot and BotheredV4 6a/b *1
206MorphV3 6a *2
207MindyV5 6b **4
208Middle Terrace SlabV1 5c *2
209UnderdogV6 6c **6
210Sniffer DogV7 6c ** 
211Lazy ColonV7 6c ** 
212Dog SnifferV8 6c ** 
213GnasherV6 6b/c **6
214Dog LegV4 6b *2
215Ant SlabV0 5b ** 
216Jack RussellV2 6a *2
217The TerrierV2 6a **2
218Dog Dick AreteV4 6a/b ***13
219Fissure de Cul de ChienV3 5c *1
220Green FingersV4 6a *3
221Avant GardenerV4 6b **8
222Colonic IrrigationV4 6a **5
223Cream T-CrackV5 6a/b **4
224Orson's Colonic IrritationV4 6a *3
225JazzV2 6a **1
226JaseV4 6b *1
227JezV1 5b/c 2
 BEARACLEAVE  
229The BBBV4 6a ***4
230BBBDV6 6b/c ***1
231The Beast of BearacleaveV5 6b ***1
232The Lonesome Crowded WestV6 6b/c **1
233Halcyon TraverseV4 6a/b *4
234The Curly BracketV4 6b **5
235Oxford CommaV0 5b 3
236Bad GrammarV2 6a 4
237Yellow SubmarineV4 6b *6
238Red OctoberV7 6c ***2
239Spooky ThrutchV3 5c 3
240Spooky Tree TraverseV5 6b **6
241Squirrel SlabV4 6a *4
242Nevermind the BuzzardsV4 6b **5
243GizaV3 6a 2
244ScorebagV4 6a/b *8
245BawbagV6 6b/c ** 
246Bend it Like BekhamV4 5c/6a ***31
247Posh SpiceV0 5b 4
248SiroccoV4 6b/c **1
249Mt Heart AttackV3 6a/b **3
250The Xmas BluesV3 6a/b *2
251Spiky DampV2 5c 3
252The Blair Witch ProjectV4 6b/c *2
253American Squeeze JobV7 6c ** 
254Waller SlabV0 5b *4
255Mornington CrescentV3 6a ***19
256The Northern LineV2 5c *4
257Bovey BoysV3 6a **20
258Bovey StraightV5 6b/c **2
259SwansongV5 6b **6
260Black SwansongV7 6b/c ***2
261Le Fin de la FinV3 6a/b **10
262Smile MoreV3 6a/b *7
263Waller TowerV2 6a 2
264The Towering InfernalV4 6a/b *2
265The WashbasinV3 6a/b **8
266Do The PachacutiV1 5c *8
267Roger MellyV2 6a *5
268TV EyeV2 5c **12
269Ante's AreteV6 6b ** 
270Little ArithmeticsV4 6a/b **7
271Trevor McDonaldV5 6b **2
272Bubbles from AmsterdamV6 6b ***4
273KazoomV3 6b *2
274The BlimpV2 5c 4
275Flying Spaghetti MonsterV5 6b/c **8
276Dinky ToysV4 6b **3
277Tonka TraverseV4 6b **5
278BandersnatchV4 6b *1
279Name for a LaughV2 5c *2
280The Blobby BandV3 6a/b **3
281The SerpentV4 6b **5
282Ape Index AreteV5 6b/c *1
283The Metolious MantleV0 5b 2
284KormaV3 6a *2
285Big 'EdV1 5c 3
286PanjandrumV3 6a *4
287Panjandrum Lip TraverseV2 6a 2
288Panjandrum Low Traverse ReverseV2 5b/c *1
289Love BugsV0+ 5a/b ***1
290UnderstandingV3 6a **5
291Lateral ThinkingV4 6b **3
292Devon SentV10 6c ***3
293Nether EdgeV7 6c ***4
294B MovieV3 6b 9
295The Bear HuntV7 6c **1
296Full Length FeatureV3 6a **18
297The Modern DanceV8 6c **2
298Beara BoogieV4 6a/b **2
29999V3 6a *1
300The Yak's NoseV4 6b **2
301Bearaburger TraverseV5 6b **2
302Tesco HorseburgerV3 6a *1
303The MuckBovey BurgerV2 5c *2
304Careless PorkV4 6b *2
305Eggs and GammonV3 6a *5
306Poor RhiannonV6 6b/c ***6
307Mastic Medic LHV3 6a *3
308Mastic Medic RHV4 6b *2
309The Green TravestyV5 6b **3
310The Unbearable Likelihood of Being SquishedV2 5c *2
 WILDERNESS AND BELOW THE PATH  
312Gnarly DudeV6 6b *1
313Sweet DudeV1 5b **5
314Punter's TraverseV1 5b *1
315Steep Dude TraverseV5 6b **3
316Dudely MooreV4 6b *3
317Hey Dude!V2 5c **4
318Horny RidgeV3 6a/b *5
319Horny WallV4 6b **2
320Butter BunV4 6a *2
321HovisV1 5b *2
322The Pig NestV3 6a/b **5
323LianeV5 6b ** 
324The Wilderness TraverseV4 6b ** 
325The Pipe AreteV5 6b/c **2
326Smokin'V5 6b **3
327The Dharma InitiativeV3 6a/b *2
328Jakob's LadderV6 6b ***1
329The OthersV6 6b/c **1
330The Lost BoysV6 6b ** 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomrainbow

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Hey, I've put together a pretty accurate map for Bovey woods, and please message me if you want a copy. It's basically the coordinates (and names) for the boulders, which are used with a smartphone app to find your way! Dan
Dan 85 - 16/Apr/15
The wiki site has changed its address to: http://shaptor.wikifoundry.com/ Directions and parking details have been added.
tomrainbow - 12/Jan/14
Is there a rough map available anywhere? The only one I can find are the sketches on shaptor.wetpaint.com, which are brilliant, if you know where you are/where the rocks are anyway. The sketches dont seem to match up with OS maps?
tomwheeler - 23/May/11
Named problems constitute about a third of the climbed problems in the Woods. For more detailed info, topos, video footage, comment etc visit http://shaptor.wetpaint.com/
tomrainbow - 15/Jan/09