One of the most beautifully-placed crags in the area (Lledr Valley), with good rock and exposed, quick-drying routes - single- and multi-pitch up to 180ft. Lavaredo (VS 4b***), Fratricide Wall (HVS 5a) and Pin Up (E1 5b).
Head for the eastern side of the Cwm Penamnen valley. Take the A496 and take the road to the railway station of Dolwyddelan. Turn R straight after the railway bridge, past some houses to a narrow gated road, leading to a parking place opposite the crag.
Take a rickety bridge and short path through the woods (L of a fire-break) gets you there.
Rickety Bridge has now been replaced by a lovely new wooden bridge. New parking and picnic area. Walk over the bridge and along a good path to a landrover track. Ahead is a new plantation of pines which is hard to cross. Turn left and walk along the track for a couple of hundred metres and then cross the rough ground to another track and the base of the crag.
|3||Leviathan Direct||VS 4b *||17|
|4||The last post||VS 4c||4|
|5||Fratricide Wall||HVS 5a **||145|
|6||Lightning Visit||VS 4c **||322|
|8||Penamnen Groove||E1 5b *||31|
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|Could not find a good descent path. In situ abseil point near the top of Lavaredo. Had already dropped the ropes so had a hellish bush wack for half an hour. Abseil recommended!|
Chriswallis2 - 05/Apr/15