Bamford Edge

Climbs 266 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A uniquely unspoilt natural gritstone edge, the benefit of access restrictions,(see below) Excellent quality grit. Elevated position above moors, dries quickly, but exposed to the elements. Good climbs of all grades approx. 8 to 13m high. Seldom busy. First visit go to The Great Tor and sample the delights of Brown's Crack (HS 4b), Quien Sabe? (VS 4c), or Bilberry Crack (VS 5a). Tussle with Undercut Crack (E2 5b), sheer thuggary, or for something more delicate, try anything on The Salmon slab (E4/5 to E7). A gem of a place.

Access notes
Access is now allowed all year due to the Countryside Rights of Way Act (apart from up to 28 days when it can be closed but must be announced in advance). See BMC access notes for details.

Approach from Bamford, north along A6013 to Ladybower. After 1 mile turn rt (Bamford Moor). Limited parking on side of rd. past edge where road starts to level out, just before a gate. Footpath leads up to RH end of edge (10 min).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Climbs - Stanage (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 GREAT BUTTRESS - UPPER TIER  
2End FaceVS 5b 1
3Wall Right of End FaceHS 4c 5
4Wall left of Easy ChimneyHVD 4a 4
5Easy ChimneyM 53
6PalpitationHS 4c 13
7ThumpingHVS 5c 3
8Thin on TopE2 5b 2
9Green and NastyE2 5c 9
10In My PocketE1 5b 2
11In My Pocket AreteV0 5a 7
12Initiation WallHVD 4a 5
13InitiationS 4a 44
14Introduction WallHS 4c 5
15IntroductionS 4a 9
16Beer MattersVS 5a 22
17Fat CatVS 5b 11
18Deep ChimneyM 66
19GeneHS 4b 4
20KellyHS 4b *81
21Deaf Raspberry ClimbE1 5c 2
22Astronaut's WallHVS 5b *97
23PossibilityS 4a *272
24Primitive ChimneyVD 49
25The Overhang TraverseM 7
26Undercut CrackE2 5c **40
27A35E1 5b 1
28M35 (A35)E6 6c **1
29Avoiding the TraitorsE7 6c ** 
30Bad WindS 4a 10
31Claim to FameHVS 5a 8
32Terrace RibVS 4c 53
33Terrace TrogM *133
34Missing ASGHVS 5a 2
35Terrace WallVS 4b 14
36Old WallHVS 5b *5
37Gargoyle FlakeVS 4c ***1313
38Gargoyle Gully LeftD 5
39Gargoyle Gully MiddleD 5
40Gargoyle Gully RightD 6
41SunsetS 4a 134
42BeelzebuggerHVS 5b 36
43Bum DealE1 5c *100
44Clean, Squeaky and ScentedE1 6a 10
45Hard RainE2 5c  
46Left WingS 4a 72
47Almost GraniteE1 5b *12
48TinnerHVS 5b *131
49Right-hand TwinHVS 5a *221
50Private PracticeE1 5b *35
51Solstice AreteVS 4c 55
 GREAT TOR - LOWER TIER  
 THE SALMON BOULDERS  
54Something SillyV5 6b 1
55Something ElseV0 4c 9
56Win HillV0 5a 8
57Lose HillV3 6a 11
58Ping Pong Pocket RibV7 6b 5
59Flaky FlusterV4 6b 5
60Wriggly CrackV0- 4c 11
61SnapV0 4b 10
62Short Smart Slab CentreV0 5a 6
63Short Smart Slab Right AreteV0- 4c 5
 SALMON SLAB AREA  
65Shallow GrooveS 4a 3
66Hasta La Vista CornerVD 4
67Hasta La VistaHVD 3c 50
68Back FlipE1 5b *26
69Benberry WallE3 5b 12
70The Naked EyeE2 5b *18
71Bilberry Crack (Bamford)VS 5a **878
72Recess CrackVD *454
73Recess GrooveHS 4b 83
74Jive BunnyE4 5c  
75Nemmes SabeHVS 5a **81
76Nemmes Pas HarryE1 5b **396
77Quien Sabe?VS 4c ***867
78Quien Sabe? EliminateE3 6a  
79Brown's CrackHS 4b ***1256
80JetrunnerE4 6a **194
81Trout (Salmon Left-Hand)E6 6b ***23
82Salmon DirectE6 6c **4
83The SalmonE7 6c *1
84Smoked SalmonE7 7a *1
85Curving CrackVS 4c **564
86Poached SalmonE5 6c *15
87Tartar SauceE5 6b  
88Sandy CrackHS 4b *232
89Quebec CityVS 4c *29
90Quebec City VariationHS 4b 3
91Greydon BoddingtonHVS 5b *88
92FizzE1 5c *168
93Two Real Doleys ScroungingE3 6b  
94Flake Buttress RibHS 4b 6
95Kinked CrackVD 4
96The EggE4 6a 8
97High and DryE6 6b 4
98The ChickenHVS 5a  
99Acid SlabVD 5
100Assorted BatteriesHVS 5a  
101Various UndercutsHVS 5a  
102Alkaline AreteS 4a 3
 WRINKLED WALL AREA  
104KleverVS 5b 7
105KluelessHS 5a 11
106K'PowV0 5a 6
107Kin'eck Hanging CrackV0 4c 9
108Kin 'eckS 17
109You Won't Make Old Bones (Kin'eck Arete)VD 13
110Crystal Tips and AlistairHS 4b 6
111K'kinHS 4c 12
112KpaxHS 4c 8
113K ProwVD 3
114The K KoleHS 4b 3
115Que? SlabD 123
116Que? Slab Direct/K Buttress Slab DirectD *343
117K Buttress SlabVD *341
118K Kole Aretef6B+ *14
119Ko'dV2 5b 11
120Ko'd (no ledge)V4 6a 5
121K Buttress CrackS 4a **92
122K Buttress Crack DirectS 4c 8
123Wrong Hand RouteE1 5c **228
124SkarlatiE2 5b *35
125Fern ChimneyD 68
126Bracken CrackVD *250
127TomeV2 5c *4
128The Bookendf6B *16
129Bookend RightV5 6b 3
130The Plumber has Landedf6B *1
131Down to Earthf6A+ **61
132Crunchy Nuts/DebVS 5a 86
133StonedV2 5b 1
134Petered OutV0 4c 9
135Wee LassieVS 5b 5
136Special KHVS 5b *11
137Dead Mouse CrackHS 4c 29
138Hanging CrackHS 4b 20
139BamboozerE2 6a 13
140Spikef7B ***2
141JasmineE6 6b **32
142Access AccountE3 6a *19
143Wrinkled WallVS 4c ***1111
144Old and WrinkledHVS 5a *181
145The CreaseE1 5a *727
146Sinuous CrackVD 234
147Duff PaddyV4 6a 1
148Save DinnomiteV4 6a 2
149Way RoodV0 5a 3
 NEB BUTTRESS  
151Twiglet WallV2 5c 1
152Monster MunchV3 6a 1
153CleopatraVS 4c 13
154Samson's DelightVS 4c *202
155Dirty Stop OutE2 5c **73
156DelilahHS 4b *79
157Delilah CrackV0+ 5b 14
158Short CurveHVD *287
159The Business BoyV4 6b 5
160The Business Boyf6B *12
161Czech MateVS 5a 2
162SnuggazzabugHS 4b 4
163N.B. CornerD 120
164Big BenVS 4b 61
165ParliamentE1 5c *68
166Neb Buttress DirectHVS 5a ***166
167AuricleE2 5c **311
168Jumping Jack LonglandE3 5c *45
169Neb ButtressHVS 5a ***541
170Bamford RibHVS 5a **679
171Holly CrackVD 15
172Bramble CrackVD 86
173The Happy WandererHVS 5a **453
174ReachVS 4c *409
175Bamford WallS 4a **1284
176Bamford ButtressS 4a *610
177Busy Day at BamfordVS 5a 69
178Twin CracksVS 4b *144
179Custard's Last StandHVS 5b *4
180Deep CleftM *159
181OracleHS 4b **254
182Sterling MossE4 6b *1
183OntosE3 6b **32
184Fatal InheritanceE4 6a 3
185PurgamentumE4 6b  
186Trouble with LichenHVS 5b **66
187Slanting SlabM 130
188Grey DaysE2 5c 2
189Three Little PigsHVD 4a 5
190MurV0+ 5b 6
191FenteV0- 4c 6
192CannalureV1 5b 6
 PORTHOLE BUTTRESS  
194Slab and Crack AreteD 24
195Slab and Crack (Bamford)D *247
196MoglichkeitHS 4b 81
197Plimsoll LineHVS 5b 30
198PortholeHVS 5b *141
199PortsideS 4a 326
200Portside StartV0- 4a 21
201Leaning SlabVD *436
202A Treat for the Gimpf4 17
203Sloop John BHD 4b 5
204Trango 2 Left AreteHS 4c 15
205Trango 2E3 5c 32
206Trango 2 Right AreteHS 4b 14
 CHRISTMAS THEMED BUTTRESSES  
208DreamD 10
209QuinceVD 8
210SnugVD 10
211Midsummer MadnessHS 4b 9
212Dawn and DuskS 4b 7
213The Curse of the Shortening DayS 4b 9
214Midsummer WallVD 11
215Bilberry AreteVD 12
216Cold TurkeyS 4a 13
217StuffingVD 3
218Santa's PantsVD 3
219Overindulgence AreteHS 4b 13
220Trogolodyte's RouteD 11
221Christmas PuddingVD 15
222Christmas PresentVD 15
223Christmas CrackerD 23
224A Traditional ChristmasHS 4b 11
225Paxo AreteS 4a 10
226Chestnut ChimneyD 15
227MistletoeS 4c 11
228IvyVD 22
229HollyVD 25
230Bellyflop ExtravaganzaHVD 4a 9
231Feast of StephenHS 4c 15
232WenceslasD 18
233EbenezerS 4c 22
 GUN BUTTRESS  
235Jumping the GunHS 4b 18
236Shadow WallVS 4b *295
237Life During WartimeE2 5c *56
238Randy's WallHVS 5a **312
239Magnum ForceHVS 5a *89
240SpringboardE1 5a 7
241Gunpowder CrackVS 5b **555
242Master BlasterE1 5c *41
243Loader's BayD 267
244AmmoS 4a 381
245Long JohnVS 5b *99
246Three Real Men DancingE2 6a *26
247Green ChimneyD 159
248Artillery CornerD 389
249GangwayVD 407
250Gangway Variation StartS 4b 75
251Gangway DirectHS 4c 77
252Green ParrotVS 5b *213
253A Minah VariationV3 6a 11
254Bosun's SlabM *478
255Concave SlabD 473
256Convex or PerplexedVS 5b 123
257Adjacent SlabVD 361
258Adjacent Slab (Direct)S 4c 90
259HypotenuseM *492
260OppositeS 4a 490
261VertigoHS 4c *339
262Armed and DangerousE4 6a *12
263Dynamite GrooveHVS 5b 13
264Funny SideS 4a 37
265TopsideHS 4b *15
266Sunny SideS 4a *199
267Right SideS 4a 69
268Slopey SideHVS 5b 40
 UNPLACED ROUTES  
270Downpour *HS 4b  
271Gasbag *E2 5c * 
272Neb Buttress/Bamford Rib combo *VS 4c *2
273Vegetated Chimney (by Down to Earth) *HVD 1
274Possibility - right hand finish *S 4a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Remember you can't take your dog!
JohnHutch - 24/Sep/09