Climbs 266
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces SW

As good as it gets in October! © Sean Kelly

Crag features

A uniquely unspoilt natural gritstone edge, the benefit of access restrictions,(see below) Excellent quality grit. Elevated position above moors, dries quickly, but exposed to the elements. Good climbs of all grades approx. 8 to 13m high. Seldom busy. First visit go to The Great Tor and sample the delights of Brown's Crack (HS 4b), Quien Sabe? (VS 4c), or Bilberry Crack (VS 5a). Tussle with Undercut Crack (E2 5b), sheer thuggary, or for something more delicate, try anything on The Salmon slab (E4/5 to E7). A gem of a place.

Approach notes

Approach from Bamford, north along A6013 to Ladybower. After 1 mile turn rt (Bamford Moor). Limited parking on side of rd. past edge where road starts to level out, just before a gate. Footpath leads up to RH end of edge (10 min).

Restricted Access

Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby by an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Remember you can't take your dog!
JohnHutch - 24/Sep/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Great Buttress - Upper TIer 
2End FaceVS 5b 1
3Wall Right of End FaceHS 4c 4
4Wall left of Easy ChimneyHVD 4a 4
5Easy ChimneyM 58
6PalpitationHS 4c 14
7ThumpingHVS 5c 3
8Thin on TopE2 5b 1
9Green and NastyE2 5c 10
10In My PocketE1 5b 2
11In My Pocket Arete
-
V0 7
12Initiation Wall
-
HVD 4a 6
13InitiationS 4a 46
14Introduction WallHS 4c 5
15IntroductionS 4a 9
16Beer MattersVS 5a 22
17Fat CatVS 5b 11
18Deep ChimneyM 69
19Gene
-
HS 4b 4
20KellyHS 4b *83
21Deaf Raspberry ClimbE1 5c 2
22Astronaut's WallHVS 5b *99
23PossibilityS 4a *297
24Primitive ChimneyVD 53
25The Overhang TraverseM 7
26Undercut CrackE2 5c **42
27A35E1 5b 1
28M35 (A35)E6 6c ** 
29Avoiding the TraitorsE7 6c **2
30Bad WindS 4a 11
31Claim to FameHVS 5a 11
32Terrace RibVS 4c 56
33Terrace TrogM *135
34Missing ASG
-
HVS 5a 2
35Terrace WallVS 4b 16
36Old WallHVS 5b *5
37Gargoyle FlakeVS 4c ***1688
38Gargoyle Gully LeftD 5
39Gargoyle Gully MiddleD 5
40Gargoyle Gully RightD 6
41SunsetS 4a 142
42BeelzebuggerHVS 5b 40
43Bum DealE1 5c *115
44Clean, Squeaky and ScentedE1 6a 8
45Hard RainE2 5c  
46Left WingS 4a 76
47Almost GraniteE1 5b *13
48TinnerHVS 5b *142
49Right-hand TwinHVS 5a *257
50Private PracticeE1 5b *37
51Solstice AreteVS 4c 61
 Great Tor - Lower Tier 
 The Salmon Boulders 
54Something SillyV5 1
55Something ElseV0 9
56Win Hill
-
V0 8
57Lose Hill
-
V3 11
58Ping Pong Pocket Rib
-
V7 5
59Flaky Fluster
-
V4 5
60Wriggly Crack
-
V0- 11
61Snap
-
V0 10
62Short Smart Slab Centre
-
V0 6
63Short Smart Slab Right Arete
-
V0- 5
 Salmon Slab Area 
65Shallow GrooveS 4a 4
66Hasta La Vista CornerVD 4
67Hasta La VistaHVD 3c 50
68Back FlipE1 5b *33
69Benberry WallE3 5b 12
70The Naked EyeE2 5b *20
71Bilberry Crack (Bamford)VS 5a **1003
72Recess CrackVD *482
73Recess GrooveHS 4b 92
74Jive Bunny
-
E4 5c  
75Nemmes SabeHVS 5a **88
76Nemmes Pas HarryE1 5b **443
77Quien Sabe?VS 4c ***1017
78Quien Sabe? EliminateE3 6a 1
79Brown's CrackHS 4b ***1374
80JetrunnerE4 6a **216
81Trout (Salmon Left-Hand)E6 6b ***24
82Salmon DirectE6 6c **4
83The SalmonE7 6c *1
84Smoked SalmonE7 7a *2
85Curving CrackVS 4c **618
86Poached SalmonE5 6c *15
87Tartar Sauce
-
E5 6b 1
88Sandy CrackHS 4b *258
89Quebec CityVS 4c *30
90Quebec City VariationHS 4b 3
91Greydon BoddingtonHVS 5b *94
92FizzE1 5c *179
93Two Real Doleys Scrounging
-
E3 6b  
94Flake Buttress Rib
-
HS 4b 6
95Kinked CrackVD 4
96The EggE4 6a 8
97High and DryE6 6b 3
98The Chicken
-
HVS 5a  
99Acid Slab
-
VD 5
100Assorted Batteries
-
HVS 5a  
101Various Undercuts
-
HVS 5a  
102Alkaline Arete
-
S 4a 3
 Wrinkled Wall Area 
104Klever
-
VS 5b 7
105Klueless
-
HS 5a 12
106K'Pow
-
V0 6
107Kin'eck Hanging CrackV0 9
108Kin 'eck
-
S 19
109You Won't Make Old Bones (Kin'eck Arete)VD 13
110Crystal Tips and AlistairHS 4b 6
111K'kin
-
HS 4c 13
112KpaxHS 4c 8
113K ProwVD 3
114The K KoleHS 4b 3
115Que? SlabD 137
116Que? Slab Direct/K Buttress Slab DirectD *369
117K Buttress SlabVD *367
118K Kole Aretef6B+ *15
119Ko'dV2 11
120Ko'd (no ledge)
-
V4 5
121K Buttress CrackS 4a **97
122K Buttress Crack DirectS 4c 9
123Wrong Hand RouteE1 5c **256
124SkarlatiE2 5b *37
125Fern ChimneyD 73
126Bracken CrackVD *281
127TomeV2 *4
128The Bookendf6B *19
129Bookend Right
-
V5 3
130The Plumber has Landedf6B *3
131Down to Earthf6A+ **65
132Crunchy Nuts/DebVS 5a 90
133Stoned
-
V2 1
134Petered Out
-
V0 9
135Wee LassieVS 5b 6
136Special KHVS 5b *11
137Dead Mouse CrackHS 4c 34
138Hanging CrackHS 4b 21
139BamboozerE2 6a 15
140Spikef7B ***4
141JasmineE6 6b **39
142Access AccountE3 6a *24
143Wrinkled WallVS 4c ***1231
144Old and WrinkledHVS 5a *207
145The CreaseE1 5a *805
146Sinuous CrackVD 254
147Duff Paddy
-
V4 1
148Save Dinnomite
-
V4 2
149Way Rood
-
V0 3
 Neb Buttress 
151Twiglet Wall
-
V2 1
152Monster Munch
-
V3 1
153CleopatraVS 4c 14
154Samson's DelightVS 4c *223
155Dirty Stop OutE2 5c **79
156DelilahHS 4b *88
157Delilah Crack
-
V0+ 14
158Short CurveHVD *308
159The Business Boy
-
V4 5
160The Business Boyf6B *12
161Czech MateVS 5a 3
162SnuggazzabugHS 4b 4
163N.B. CornerD 127
164Big BenVS 4b 70
165ParliamentE1 5c *74
166Neb Buttress DirectHVS 5a ***224
167AuricleE2 5c **342
168Jumping Jack LonglandE3 5c *49
169Neb ButtressHVS 5a ***576
170Bamford RibHVS 5a **765
171Holly Crack
-
VD 16
172Bramble CrackVD 90
173The Happy WandererHVS 5a **495
174ReachVS 4c *443
175Bamford WallS 4a **1435
176Bamford ButtressS 4a *674
177Busy Day at BamfordVS 5a 89
178Twin CracksVS 4b *159
179Custard's Last StandHVS 5b *5
180Deep CleftM *166
181OracleHS 4b **275
182Sterling MossE4 6b *1
183OntosE3 6b **39
184Fatal InheritanceE4 6a 5
185PurgamentumE4 6b  
186Trouble with LichenHVS 5b **78
187Slanting SlabM 135
188Grey DaysE2 5c 2
189Three Little Pigs
-
HVD 4a 6
190Mur
-
V0+ 6
191Fente
-
V0- 6
192Cannalure
-
V1 6
 Porthole Buttress 
194Slab and Crack AreteD 26
195Slab and Crack (Bamford)D *258
196MoglichkeitHS 4b 87
197Plimsoll LineHVS 5b 41
198PortholeHVS 5b *153
199PortsideS 4a 348
200Portside StartV0- 22
201Leaning SlabVD *462
202A Treat for the Gimpf4 19
203Sloop John BHD 4b 5
204Trango 2 Left Arete
-
HS 4c 15
205Trango 2E3 5c 34
206Trango 2 Right Arete
-
HS 4b 14
 Christmas Themed Buttresses 
208DreamD 15
209QuinceVD 12
210SnugVD 13
211Midsummer MadnessHS 4b 11
212Dawn and DuskS 4b 9
213The Curse of the Shortening DayS 4b 11
214Midsummer WallVD 15
215Bilberry AreteVD 16
216Cold TurkeyS 4a 14
217StuffingVD 5
218Santa's PantsVD 4
219Overindulgence AreteHS 4b 14
220Trogolodyte's RouteD 13
221Christmas PuddingVD 20
222Christmas PresentVD 20
223Christmas CrackerD 26
224A Traditional ChristmasHS 4b 12
225Paxo AreteS 4a 13
226Chestnut ChimneyD 19
227MistletoeS 4c 15
228IvyVD 28
229HollyVD 31
230Bellyflop ExtravaganzaHVD 4a 11
231Feast of StephenHS 4c 20
232WenceslasD 20
233EbenezerS 4c 25
 Gun Buttress 
235Jumping the Gun
-
HS 4b 18
236Shadow WallVS 4b *327
237Life During WartimeE2 5c *56
238Randy's WallHVS 5a **351
239Magnum ForceHVS 5a *93
240Springboard
-
E1 5a 8
241Gunpowder CrackVS 5b **628
242Master BlasterE1 5c *42
243Loader's BayD 283
244AmmoS 4a 404
245Long JohnVS 5b *101
246Three Real Men DancingE2 6a *27
247Green ChimneyD 162
248Artillery CornerD 410
249GangwayVD 430
250Gangway Variation StartS 4b 82
251Gangway DirectHS 4c 80
252Green ParrotVS 5b *225
253A Minah Variation
-
V3 12
254Bosun's SlabM *504
255Concave SlabD 500
256Convex or PerplexedVS 5b 128
257Adjacent SlabVD 378
258Adjacent Slab (Direct)
-
S 4c 92
259HypotenuseM *521
260OppositeS 4a 525
261VertigoHS 4c *354
262Armed and DangerousE4 6a *12
263Dynamite GrooveHVS 5b 13
264Funny SideS 4a 44
265TopsideHS 4b *19
266Sunny SideS 4a *211
267Right SideS 4a 78
268Slopey SideHVS 5b 42
 Unplaced Routes 
270DownpourHS 4b  
271GasbagE2 5c * 
272Neb Buttress/Bamford Rib comboVS 4c *3
273Vegetated Chimney (by Down to Earth)
-
HVD 1
274Possibility - right hand finishS 4a 1
275Beachbugger *VS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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