Climbs 266
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces SW

As good as it gets in October! © Sean Kelly

Crag features

A uniquely unspoilt natural gritstone edge, the benefit of access restrictions,(see below) Excellent quality grit. Elevated position above moors, dries quickly, but exposed to the elements. Good climbs of all grades approx. 8 to 13m high. Seldom busy. First visit go to The Great Tor and sample the delights of Brown's Crack (HS 4b), Quien Sabe? (VS 4c), or Bilberry Crack (VS 5a). Tussle with Undercut Crack (E2 5b), sheer thuggary, or for something more delicate, try anything on The Salmon slab (E4/5 to E7). A gem of a place.

Approach notes

Approach from Bamford, north along A6013 to Ladybower. After 1 mile turn rt (Bamford Moor). Limited parking on side of rd. past edge where road starts to level out, just before a gate. Footpath leads up to RH end of edge (10 min).

Restricted Access

Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.

Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Remember you can't take your dog!
JohnHutch - 24/Sep/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Great Buttress - Upper TIer 
2End FaceVS 5b 2
3Wall Right of End FaceHS 4c 4
4Wall left of Easy ChimneyHVD 4a 8
5Easy ChimneyM 62
6PalpitationHS 4c 16
7ThumpingHVS 5c 3
8Thin on TopE2 5b 1
9Green and NastyE2 5c 10
10In My PocketE1 5b 2
11In My Pocket Arete
-
V0 8
12Initiation Wall
-
HVD 4a 7
13InitiationS 4a 51
14Introduction WallHS 4c 5
15IntroductionS 4a 10
16Beer MattersVS 5a 28
17Fat CatVS 5b 11
18Deep ChimneyM 71
19Gene
-
HS 4b 4
20KellyHS 4b *89
21Deaf Raspberry ClimbE1 5c 2
22Astronaut's WallHVS 5b *103
23PossibilityS 4a *332
24Primitive ChimneyVD 56
25The Overhang TraverseM 7
26Undercut CrackE2 5c **46
27A35E1 5b 1
28M35 (A35)E6 6c ** 
29Avoiding the TraitorsE7 6c **2
30Bad WindS 4a 13
31Claim to FameHVS 5a 12
32Terrace RibVS 4c 66
33Terrace TrogM *148
34Missing ASG
-
HVS 5a 2
35Terrace WallVS 4b 18
36Old WallHVS 5b *5
37Gargoyle FlakeVS 4c ***1855
38Gargoyle Gully LeftD 8
39Gargoyle Gully MiddleD 5
40Gargoyle Gully RightD 13
41SunsetS 4a 160
42BeelzebuggerHVS 5b 43
43Bum DealE1 5c *130
44Clean, Squeaky and ScentedE1 6a 9
45Hard RainE2 5c  
46Left WingS 4a 80
47Almost GraniteE1 5b *14
48TinnerHVS 5b *152
49Right-hand TwinHVS 5a *279
50Private PracticeE1 5b *39
51Solstice AreteVS 4c 69
 Great Tor - Lower Tier 
 The Salmon Boulders 
54Something Sillyf6C *1
55Something Elsef4 *9
56Win Hillf4+ 8
57Lose Hillf6A+ *11
58Ping Pong Pocket Ribf7A+ **5
59Flaky Flusterf6B *5
60Wriggly Crackf4 *11
61Snapf3+ *10
62Short Smart Slab Centre
-
V0 6
63Short Smart Slab Right Arete
-
V0- 5
 Salmon Slab Area 
65Shallow GrooveS 4a 7
66Hasta La Vista CornerVD 4
67Hasta La VistaHVD 3c 52
68Back FlipE1 5b *36
69Benberry WallE3 5b 13
70The Naked EyeE2 5b *20
71Bilberry Crack (Bamford)VS 5a **1068
72Recess CrackVD *527
73Recess GrooveHS 4b 99
74Jive Bunny
-
E4 5c  
75Nemmes SabeHVS 5a **121
76Nemmes Pas HarryE1 5b **497
77Quien Sabe?VS 4c ***1105
78Quien Sabe? EliminateE3 6a 1
79Brown's CrackHS 4b ***1579
80JetrunnerE4 6a **298
81Trout (Salmon Left-Hand)E6 6b ***35
82Salmon DirectE6 6c **9
83The SalmonE7 6c *1
84Smoked SalmonE7 7a *2
85Curving CrackVS 4c **688
86Poached SalmonE5 6c *15
87Tartar Sauce
-
E5 6b 1
88Sandy CrackHS 4b *278
89Quebec CityVS 4c *39
90Quebec City VariationHS 4b 4
91Greydon BoddingtonHVS 5b *100
92FizzE1 5c *202
93Two Real Doleys Scrounging
-
E3 6b  
94Flake Buttress Rib
-
HS 4b 6
95Kinked CrackVD 4
96The EggE4 6a 8
97High and DryE6 6b 3
98The Chicken
-
HVS 5a  
99Acid Slab
-
VD 6
100Assorted Batteries
-
HVS 5a 1
101Various Undercuts
-
HVS 5a 1
102Alkaline Arete
-
S 4a 4
 Wrinkled Wall Area 
104Klever
-
VS 5b 9
105Klueless
-
HS 5a 14
106K'Pow
-
V0 8
107Kin'eck Hanging CrackV0 10
108Kin 'eck
-
S 21
109You Won't Make Old Bones (Kin'eck Arete)VD 15
110Crystal Tips and AlistairHS 4b 7
111K'kin
-
HS 4c 15
112KpaxHS 4c 8
113K ProwVD 4
114The K KoleHS 4b 3
115Que? SlabD 149
116Que? Slab Direct/K Buttress Slab DirectD *388
117K Buttress SlabVD *395
118K Kole Aretef6B+ **15
119Ko'df6B *11
120Ko'd (no ledge)
-
V4 5
121K Buttress CrackS 4a **105
122K Buttress Crack DirectS 4c 9
123Wrong Hand RouteE1 5c **278
124SkarlatiE2 5b *40
125Fern ChimneyD 75
126Bracken CrackVD *300
127TomeV2 *4
128The Bookendf6B **21
129Bookend Rightf6C+ **3
130The Plumber has Landedf6B *4
131Down to Earthf6A+ ***73
132Crunchy Nuts/DebVS 5a 96
133Debf4+ * 
134Stoned
-
V2 1
135Petered Out
-
V0 10
136Wee LassieVS 5b 6
137Special KHVS 5b *11
138Dead Mouse CrackHS 4c 39
139Hanging CrackHS 4b 22
140Bamboozerf6C *15
141Spikef7B ***4
142JasmineE6 6b **56
143Access AccountE3 6a *31
144Wrinkled WallVS 4c ***1390
145Old and WrinkledHVS 5a *233
146The CreaseE1 5a *877
147Sinuous CrackVD 269
148Duff Paddy
-
V4 1
149Save Dinnomite
-
V4 2
150Way Rood
-
V0 3
 Neb Buttress 
152Twiglet Wall
-
V2 1
153Monster Munch
-
V3 1
154CleopatraVS 4c 14
155Samson's DelightVS 4c *241
156Dirty Stop OutE2 5c **80
157DelilahHS 4b *96
158Delilah Crack
-
V0+ 15
159Short CurveHVD *344
160The Business BoyE1 6a *17
161Czech MateVS 5a 3
162SnuggazzabugHS 4b 4
163N.B. CornerD 139
164Big BenVS 4b 79
165ParliamentE1 5c *83
166Neb Buttress DirectHVS 5a ***254
167AuricleE2 5c **405
168Jumping Jack LonglandE3 5c *61
169Neb ButtressHVS 5a ***686
170Bamford RibHVS 5a **852
171Holly Crack
-
VD 17
172Bramble CrackVD 96
173The Happy WandererHVS 5a **563
174ReachVS 4c *478
175Bamford WallS 4a **1581
176Bamford ButtressS 4a *756
177Busy Day at BamfordVS 5a 93
178Twin CracksVS 4b *168
179Custard's Last StandHVS 5b *5
180Deep CleftM *176
181OracleHS 4b **306
182Sterling MossE4 6b *1
183OntosE3 6b **40
184Fatal InheritanceE4 6a 5
185PurgamentumE4 6b  
186Trouble with LichenHVS 5b **91
187Slanting SlabM 140
188Grey DaysE2 5c 2
189Three Little Pigs
-
HVD 4a 6
190Mur
-
V0+ 6
191Fente
-
V0- 6
192Cannalure
-
V1 6
 Porthole Buttress 
194Slab and Crack AreteD 34
195Slab and Crack (Bamford)D *283
196MoglichkeitHS 4b 96
197Plimsoll LineHVS 5b 49
198PortholeHVS 5b *169
199PortsideS 4a 391
200Portside StartV0- 23
201Leaning SlabVD *507
202A Treat for the GimpHS 4c 23
203Sloop John BHD 4b 7
204Trango 2 Left Arete
-
HS 4c 17
205Trango 2E3 5c 36
206Trango 2 Right Arete
-
HS 4b 15
 Christmas Themed Buttresses 
208DreamD 29
209QuinceVD 20
210SnugVD 21
211Midsummer MadnessHS 4b 17
212Dawn and DuskS 4b 13
213The Curse of the Shortening DayS 4b 18
214Midsummer WallVD 26
215Bilberry AreteVD 30
216Cold TurkeyS 4a 20
217StuffingVD 11
218Santa's PantsVD 10
219Overindulgence AreteHS 4b 16
220Trogolodyte's RouteD 16
221Christmas PuddingVD 26
222Christmas PresentVD 27
223Christmas CrackerD 34
224A Traditional ChristmasHS 4b 18
225Paxo AreteS 4a 20
226Chestnut ChimneyD 27
227MistletoeS 4c 22
228IvyVD 41
229HollyVD 43
230Bellyflop ExtravaganzaHVD 4a 14
231Feast of StephenHS 4c 24
232WenceslasD 26
233EbenezerS 4c 31
 Gun Buttress 
235Jumping the Gun
-
HS 4b 19
236Shadow WallVS 4b *367
237Life During WartimeE2 5c *61
238Randy's WallHVS 5a **375
239Magnum ForceHVS 5a *104
240Springboard
-
E1 5a 8
241Gunpowder CrackVS 5b **672
242Master BlasterE1 5c *44
243Loader's BayD 299
244AmmoS 4a 440
245Long Johnf6A *107
246Three Real Men Dancingf6B+ **29
247Green ChimneyD 165
248Artillery CornerD 435
249GangwayVD 456
250Gangway Variation StartS 4b 89
251Gangway DirectHS 4c 83
252Green Parrotf5 *241
253A Minah Variationf6A *13
254Bosun's SlabM *523
255Concave SlabD 522
256Convex or PerplexedVS 5b 141
257Adjacent SlabVD 393
258Adjacent Slab (Direct)
-
S 4c 96
259HypotenuseM *544
260OppositeS 4a 558
261VertigoHS 4c *389
262Armed and DangerousE4 6a *12
263Dynamite GrooveHVS 5b 13
264Funny SideS 4a 48
265TopsideHS 4b *23
266Sunny SideS 4a *229
267Right SideS 4a 85
268Slopey SideHVS 5b 45
 Unplaced Routes 
270DownpourHS 4b  
271GasbagE2 5c * 
272Neb Buttress/Bamford Rib comboVS 4c *3
273Vegetated Chimney (by Down to Earth)
-
HVD 1
274Possibility - right hand finishS 4a 1
275Beachbugger *VS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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