Bamford Edge

Climbs 262 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A uniquely unspoilt natural gritstone edge, the benefit of access restrictions,(see below) Excellent quality grit. Elevated position above moors, dries quickly, but exposed to the elements. Good climbs of all grades approx. 8 to 13m high. Seldom busy. First visit go to The Great Tor and sample the delights of Brown's Crack (HS 4b), Quien Sabe? (VS 4c), or Bilberry Crack (VS 5a). Tussle with Undercut Crack (E2 5b), sheer thuggary, or for something more delicate, try anything on The Salmon slab (E4/5 to E7). A gem of a place.

Access notes
Access is now allowed all year due to the Countryside Rights of Way Act (apart from up to 28 days when it can be closed but must be announced in advance). See BMC access notes for details.

Approach from Bamford, north along A6013 to Ladybower. After 1 mile turn rt (Bamford Moor). Limited parking on side of rd. past edge where road starts to level out, just before a gate. Footpath leads up to RH end of edge (10 min).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Climbs - Stanage (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 GREAT BUTTRESS UPPER TIER 
2End FaceV0+ 5b
3Wall Right of End FaceHS 4c
4Wall left of Easy ChimneyHVD 4a
5Easy ChimneyM
6PalpitationVS 5b
7ThumpingHS 4b
8Thin on TopE2 5b
9Green and NastyE2 5c
10In My PocketHVS 5b
11In My Pocket AreteV0 5a
12Initiation WallHVD 4a
13InitiationS 4b
14Introduction WallHS 4c
15IntroductionS 4a
16Beer MattersVS 5a
17Fat CatHVS 5b
18Deep ChimneyM
19GeneHS 4b
20KellyS 4a
21Deaf Raspberry ClimbE1 5c
22Astronaut's WallHVS 5a *
23PossibilityS 4a *
24Primitive ChimneyD
25The Overhang TraverseM
26Undercut CrackE2 5c **
27A35E1 5b
28M35 (A35)E6 6c
29Avoiding the TraitorsE7 6c **
30Bad WindHS 4b
31Claim to FameHVS 5a
32Terrace RibVS 4c
33Terrace TrogM
34Missing ASGHVS 5a
35Terrace WallVS 4b
36Old WallHVS 5b
37Gargoyle FlakeVS 4c ***
38Gargoyle Gully LeftD
39Gargoyle Gully MiddleD
40Gargoyle Gully RightVD
41SunsetHVD
42BeelzebuggerHVS 5b
43Bum DealE1 5b
44Clean, Squeaky and ScentedE1 6b
45Hard RainE2 5c
46Left WingS 4a
47Almost GraniteHVS 5a
48TinnerHVS 5b *
49Right-hand TwinHVS 5a *
50Private PracticeHVS 5b *
51Solstice AreteVS 4c
 THE SALMON BOULDERS 
53Something SillyV5 6b
54Something ElseV0 4c
55Win HillV0 5a
56Lose HillV3 6a
57Ping Pong Pocket RibV7 6b
58Flaky FlusterV4 6b
59Wriggly CrackV0- 4c
60SnapV0 4b
61Short Smart Slab CentreV0 5a
62Short Smart Slab Right AreteV0- 4c
 SALMON SLAB AREA 
64Hasta La Vista CornerVD
65Hasta La VistaS 4a
66Back FlipE1 5b
67Benberry WallE3 5c *
68The Naked EyeE3 5c
69Bilberry Crack (Bamford)VS 5a **
70Recess CrackVD *
71Recess GrooveVS 4c
72Jive BunnyE4 5c
73Nemmes SabeHVS 5a **
74Nemmes Pas HarryE1 5b **
75Quien Sabe?VS 4c ***
76Quien Sabe? EliminateE3 6a
77Brown's CrackHS 4b ***
78JetrunnerE4 6a **
79Trout (Salmon Left-Hand)E6 6b **
80Salmon DirectE6 6c ***
81The SalmonE7 6c **
82Smoked SalmonE8 7b **
83Curving CrackVS 4c *
84Poached SalmonE5 6b *
85Tartar SauceE5 6b
86Sandy CrackS 4b *
87Quebec CityVS 5a *
88Quebec City VariationHS 4b
89Greydon BoddingtonHVS 5b *
90FizzE1 5b *
91Two Real Doleys ScroungingE3 6b
92Flake Buttress RibHS 4b
93Kinked CrackVD
94The EggE4 6a *
95High and DryE6 6b *
96The ChickenHVS 5a
97Acid SlabVD
98Assorted BatteriesHVS 5a
99Various UndercutsHVS 5a
100Alkaline AreteS 4a
 K BUTTRESS AREA 
102KleverVS 5b
103KluelessHS 5a
104K'PowV0 5a
105Kin'eck Hanging CrackV0 4c
106Kin 'eckS
107You Won't Make Old Bones (Kin'eck Arete)VD
108Crystal Tips and AlistairHS 4b
109K'kinHS 4c
110KpaxHS 4c
111K ProwVD
112The K KoleHS 4b
113Que? SlabVD
114Que? Slab Direct/K Buttress Slab DirectVD
115K Buttress SlabD
116K Kole AreteV6 6b
117Ko'dV2 5b
118Ko'd (no ledge)V4 6a
119K Buttress CrackS 4a *
120K Buttress Crack DirectS 4c
121Wrong Hand RouteE1 5c *
122SkarlatiE2 5b *
123Fern ChimneyD
124Bracken CrackVD
125TomeV2 5c *
126The BookendV4 6b
127Bookend RightV5 6b
128The Plumber has LandedV4 6a
129Down to EarthE4 6a
130Crunchy Nuts/DebVS 5a
131StonedV2 5b
132Petered OutV0 4c
133Wee LassieVS 5a
134Special KHVS 5a
135Dead Mouse CrackHS 5a
136Hanging CrackS 4a
137BamboozerV5 *
138Spikef7B ***
139JasmineE6 6b **
140Access AccountE3 6a
141Wrinkled WallVS 4c **
142Old and WrinkledHVS 5a *
143The CreaseE1 5a **
144Sinuous CrackD *
145Duff PaddyV4 6a
146Save DinnomiteV4 6a
147Way RoodV0 5a
 NEB BUTTRESS AREA 
149Twiglet WallV2 5c
150Monster MunchV3 6a
151CleopatraVS 4c
152Samson's DelightHS 4c
153Dirty Stop OutE2 5b *
154DelilahS 4b
155Delilah CrackV0+ 5b
156Short CurveVD *
157The Business BoyV4 6b
158The Business BoyE1 6b
159Czech MateVS 5a
160SnuggazzabugHS 4b
161N.B. CornerM
162Big BenVS 4b
163ParliamentHVS 5b
164Neb Buttress DirectHVS 5a ***
165AuricleE2 5c **
166Jumping Jack LonglandE3 5c *
167Neb ButtressHVS 5a ***
168Bamford RibHVS 5a **
169Holly CrackVD
170Bramble CrackD
171The Happy WandererHVS 5a **
172ReachVS 4c
173Bamford WallS 4a **
174Bamford ButtressS 4a *
175Busy Day at BamfordHVS 5a
176Twin CracksVS 4b
177Custard's Last StandVS 5b
178Deep CleftM *
179OracleVS 4b *
180Sterling MossE4 6b *
181OntosE3 6b **
182Fatal InheritanceE4 6a
183PurgamentumE4 6b
184Trouble with LichenHVS 5a *
185Slanting SlabM *
186Grey DaysE2 5c
187Three Little PigsHVD 4a
188MurV0+ 5b
189FenteV0- 4c
190CannalureV1 5b
 PORTHOLE BUTTRESS 
192Slab and Crack AreteHD
193Slab and Crack (Bamford)D
194MoglichkeitVS 4b
195Plimsoll LineHVS 5b
196PortholeHVS 5b
197PortsideS 4a
198Portside StartV0- 4a
199Leaning SlabVD
200A Treat for the GimpV0 5a
201Sloop John BHD 4b
202Trango 2 Left AreteHS 4c
203Trango 2E3 5c
204Trango 2 Right AreteHS 4b
 CHRISTMAS THEMED BUTTRESSES 
206DreamD
207QuinceVD
208SnugHVD
209Midsummer MadnessHS 4b
210Dawn and DuskS 4b
211The Curse of the Shortening DayS 4b
212Midsummer WallVD
213Bilberry AreteVD
214Cold TurkeyHVD 4a
215Overindulgence AreteHS 4b
216Trogolodyte's RouteD
217Christmas PuddingVD
218Christmas PresentVD
219Christmas CrackerD
220A Traditional ChristmasHS 4b
221Paxo AreteS 4a
222Chestnut ChimneyD
223MistletoeS 4c
224IvyVD
225HollyVD
226Bellyflop ExtravaganzaHVD 4a
227Feast of StephenHS 4c
228WenceslasD
229EbenezerS 4c *
 GUN BUTTRESS 
231Jumping the GunHS 4b
232Shadow WallVS 5a *
233Life During WartimeE3 5c
234Randy's WallVS 5a **
235Magnum ForceVS 5b *
236SpringboardE1 5a
237Gunpowder CrackVS 5b **
238Master BlasterE1 5c *
239Loader's BayD
240AmmoS 4a
241Long JohnVS 5b *
242Three Real Men DancingV4
243Green ChimneyD
244Artillery CornerD
245GangwayVD
246Gangway Variation StartS 4b
247Gangway DirectHS 4c
248Green ParrotVS 5b
249A Minah VariationV3 6a
250Bosun's SlabM
251Concave SlabM
252Convex or PerplexedVS 5b
253Adjacent SlabD
254Adjacent Slab (Direct)S 4c
255HypotenuseM *
256OppositeS 4a
257VertigoHS 4c *
258Armed and DangerousE4 6a
259Dynamite GrooveHVS 5b
260Funny SideS
261TopsideHS
262Sunny SideS 4a
263Right SideS 4a
264Slopey SideE1 5c
265Downpour *HS 4b
266Gasbag *E2 5c *
267Neb Buttress/Bamford Rib combo *VS 4c *
268Slab And Crack *D
269Vegetated Chimney (by Down to Earth) *HVD
270Possibility - right hand finish *S 4a
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Remember you can't take your dog!
JohnHutch - 24/Sep/09