Bamford Edge

Climbs 262 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A uniquely unspoilt natural gritstone edge, the benefit of access restrictions,(see below) Excellent quality grit. Elevated position above moors, dries quickly, but exposed to the elements. Good climbs of all grades approx. 8 to 13m high. Seldom busy. First visit go to The Great Tor and sample the delights of Brown's Crack (HS 4b), Quien Sabe? (VS 4c), or Bilberry Crack (VS 5a). Tussle with Undercut Crack (E2 5b), sheer thuggary, or for something more delicate, try anything on The Salmon slab (E4/5 to E7). A gem of a place.

Access notes
Access is now allowed all year due to the Countryside Rights of Way Act (apart from up to 28 days when it can be closed but must be announced in advance). See BMC access notes for details.

Approach from Bamford, north along A6013 to Ladybower. After 1 mile turn rt (Bamford Moor). Limited parking on side of rd. past edge where road starts to level out, just before a gate. Footpath leads up to RH end of edge (10 min).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Climbs - Stanage (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 GREAT BUTTRESS UPPER TIER  
2End FaceV0+ 5b 1
3Wall Right of End FaceHS 4c 4
4Wall left of Easy ChimneyHVD 4a 3
5Easy ChimneyM 47
6PalpitationVS 5b 9
7ThumpingHS 4b 2
8Thin on TopE2 5b 1
9Green and NastyE2 5c 7
10In My PocketHVS 5b 2
11In My Pocket AreteV0 5a 7
12Initiation WallHVD 4a 4
13InitiationS 4b 40
14Introduction WallHS 4c 5
15IntroductionS 4a 9
16Beer MattersVS 5a 19
17Fat CatHVS 5b 11
18Deep ChimneyM 58
19GeneHS 4b 3
20KellyS 4a 72
21Deaf Raspberry ClimbE1 5c 2
22Astronaut's WallHVS 5a *88
23PossibilityS 4a *250
24Primitive ChimneyD 43
25The Overhang TraverseM 4
26Undercut CrackE2 5c **39
27A35E1 5b 1
28M35 (A35)E6 6c  
29Avoiding the TraitorsE7 6c ** 
30Bad WindHS 4b 8
31Claim to FameHVS 5a 6
32Terrace RibVS 4c 47
33Terrace TrogM 124
34Missing ASGHVS 5a 2
35Terrace WallVS 4b 10
36Old WallHVS 5b 4
37Gargoyle FlakeVS 4c ***1179
38Gargoyle Gully LeftD 3
39Gargoyle Gully MiddleD 4
40Gargoyle Gully RightVD 3
41SunsetHVD 119
42BeelzebuggerHVS 5b 30
43Bum DealE1 5b 90
44Clean, Squeaky and ScentedE1 6b 7
45Hard RainE2 5c  
46Left WingS 4a 66
47Almost GraniteHVS 5a 5
48TinnerHVS 5b *117
49Right-hand TwinHVS 5a *203
50Private PracticeHVS 5b *33
51Solstice AreteVS 4c 50
 THE SALMON BOULDERS  
53Something SillyV5 6b 1
54Something ElseV0 4c 8
55Win HillV0 5a 8
56Lose HillV3 6a 10
57Ping Pong Pocket RibV7 6b 5
58Flaky FlusterV4 6b 5
59Wriggly CrackV0- 4c 11
60SnapV0 4b 10
61Short Smart Slab CentreV0 5a 6
62Short Smart Slab Right AreteV0- 4c 5
 SALMON SLAB AREA  
64Hasta La Vista CornerVD 4
65Hasta La VistaS 4a 47
66Back FlipE1 5b 25
67Benberry WallE3 5c *12
68The Naked EyeE3 5c 15
69Bilberry Crack (Bamford)VS 5a **809
70Recess CrackVD *418
71Recess GrooveVS 4c 71
72Jive BunnyE4 5c  
73Nemmes SabeHVS 5a **73
74Nemmes Pas HarryE1 5b **364
75Quien Sabe?VS 4c ***809
76Quien Sabe? EliminateE3 6a  
77Brown's CrackHS 4b ***1143
78JetrunnerE4 6a **181
79Trout (Salmon Left-Hand)E6 6b **16
80Salmon DirectE6 6c ***4
81The SalmonE7 6c ** 
82Smoked SalmonE8 7b **2
83Curving CrackVS 4c *521
84Poached SalmonE5 6b *14
85Tartar SauceE5 6b  
86Sandy CrackS 4b *214
87Quebec CityVS 5a *26
88Quebec City VariationHS 4b 3
89Greydon BoddingtonHVS 5b *87
90FizzE1 5b *160
91Two Real Doleys ScroungingE3 6b  
92Flake Buttress RibHS 4b 6
93Kinked CrackVD 4
94The EggE4 6a *8
95High and DryE6 6b *3
96The ChickenHVS 5a  
97Acid SlabVD 5
98Assorted BatteriesHVS 5a  
99Various UndercutsHVS 5a  
100Alkaline AreteS 4a 3
 K BUTTRESS AREA  
102KleverVS 5b 7
103KluelessHS 5a 11
104K'PowV0 5a 6
105Kin'eck Hanging CrackV0 4c 9
106Kin 'eckS 17
107You Won't Make Old Bones (Kin'eck Arete)VD 13
108Crystal Tips and AlistairHS 4b 6
109K'kinHS 4c 12
110KpaxHS 4c 8
111K ProwVD 3
112The K KoleHS 4b 3
113Que? SlabVD 119
114Que? Slab Direct/K Buttress Slab DirectVD 321
115K Buttress SlabD 317
116K Kole AreteV6 6b 11
117Ko'dV2 5b 10
118Ko'd (no ledge)V4 6a 4
119K Buttress CrackS 4a *89
120K Buttress Crack DirectS 4c 8
121Wrong Hand RouteE1 5c *205
122SkarlatiE2 5b *34
123Fern ChimneyD 62
124Bracken CrackVD 228
125TomeV2 5c *2
126The BookendV4 6b 15
127Bookend RightV5 6b 3
128The Plumber has LandedV4 6a 1
129Down to EarthE4 6a 58
130Crunchy Nuts/DebVS 5a 81
131StonedV2 5b 1
132Petered OutV0 4c 8
133Wee LassieVS 5a 3
134Special KHVS 5a 11
135Dead Mouse CrackHS 5a 28
136Hanging CrackS 4a 19
137BamboozerV5 *12
138Spikef7B ***1
139JasmineE6 6b **29
140Access AccountE3 6a 18
141Wrinkled WallVS 4c **1018
142Old and WrinkledHVS 5a *171
143The CreaseE1 5a **683
144Sinuous CrackD *212
145Duff PaddyV4 6a 1
146Save DinnomiteV4 6a 2
147Way RoodV0 5a 3
 NEB BUTTRESS AREA  
149Twiglet WallV2 5c 1
150Monster MunchV3 6a 1
151CleopatraVS 4c 10
152Samson's DelightHS 4c 191
153Dirty Stop OutE2 5b *71
154DelilahS 4b 74
155Delilah CrackV0+ 5b 13
156Short CurveVD *270
157The Business BoyV4 6b 4
158The Business BoyE1 6b 11
159Czech MateVS 5a 2
160SnuggazzabugHS 4b 4
161N.B. CornerM 107
162Big BenVS 4b 58
163ParliamentHVS 5b 65
164Neb Buttress DirectHVS 5a ***144
165AuricleE2 5c **286
166Jumping Jack LonglandE3 5c *42
167Neb ButtressHVS 5a ***500
168Bamford RibHVS 5a **619
169Holly CrackVD 15
170Bramble CrackD 73
171The Happy WandererHVS 5a **427
172ReachVS 4c 373
173Bamford WallS 4a **1185
174Bamford ButtressS 4a *572
175Busy Day at BamfordHVS 5a 64
176Twin CracksVS 4b 122
177Custard's Last StandVS 5b 4
178Deep CleftM *144
179OracleVS 4b *230
180Sterling MossE4 6b *1
181OntosE3 6b **28
182Fatal InheritanceE4 6a 3
183PurgamentumE4 6b  
184Trouble with LichenHVS 5a *59
185Slanting SlabM *121
186Grey DaysE2 5c 2
187Three Little PigsHVD 4a 5
188MurV0+ 5b 6
189FenteV0- 4c 6
190CannalureV1 5b 6
 PORTHOLE BUTTRESS  
192Slab and Crack AreteHD 19
193Slab and Crack (Bamford)D 223
194MoglichkeitVS 4b 76
195Plimsoll LineHVS 5b 24
196PortholeHVS 5b 135
197PortsideS 4a 299
198Portside StartV0- 4a 20
199Leaning SlabVD 402
200A Treat for the GimpV0 5a 17
201Sloop John BHD 4b 5
202Trango 2 Left AreteHS 4c 12
203Trango 2E3 5c 24
204Trango 2 Right AreteHS 4b 12
 CHRISTMAS THEMED BUTTRESSES  
206DreamD 9
207QuinceVD 8
208SnugHVD 10
209Midsummer MadnessHS 4b 9
210Dawn and DuskS 4b 7
211The Curse of the Shortening DayS 4b 9
212Midsummer WallVD 11
213Bilberry AreteVD 12
214Cold TurkeyHVD 4a 11
215Overindulgence AreteHS 4b 10
216Trogolodyte's RouteD 10
217Christmas PuddingVD 11
218Christmas PresentVD 12
219Christmas CrackerD 18
220A Traditional ChristmasHS 4b 9
221Paxo AreteS 4a 8
222Chestnut ChimneyD 11
223MistletoeS 4c 9
224IvyVD 13
225HollyVD 18
226Bellyflop ExtravaganzaHVD 4a 7
227Feast of StephenHS 4c 10
228WenceslasD 15
229EbenezerS 4c *17
 GUN BUTTRESS  
231Jumping the GunHS 4b 18
232Shadow WallVS 5a *270
233Life During WartimeE3 5c 49
234Randy's WallVS 5a **288
235Magnum ForceVS 5b *82
236SpringboardE1 5a 7
237Gunpowder CrackVS 5b **505
238Master BlasterE1 5c *39
239Loader's BayD 244
240AmmoS 4a 349
241Long JohnVS 5b *86
242Three Real Men DancingV4 22
243Green ChimneyD 147
244Artillery CornerD 362
245GangwayVD 381
246Gangway Variation StartS 4b 71
247Gangway DirectHS 4c 70
248Green ParrotVS 5b 191
249A Minah VariationV3 6a 8
250Bosun's SlabM 435
251Concave SlabM 434
252Convex or PerplexedVS 5b 108
253Adjacent SlabD 338
254Adjacent Slab (Direct)S 4c 80
255HypotenuseM *461
256OppositeS 4a 457
257VertigoHS 4c *314
258Armed and DangerousE4 6a 13
259Dynamite GrooveHVS 5b 12
260Funny SideS 30
261TopsideHS 13
262Sunny SideS 4a 186
263Right SideS 4a 59
264Slopey SideE1 5c 35
265Downpour *HS 4b  
266Gasbag *E2 5c * 
267Neb Buttress/Bamford Rib combo *VS 4c *2
268Slab And Crack *D 7
269Vegetated Chimney (by Down to Earth) *HVD 1
270Possibility - right hand finish *S 4a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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JohnHutch - 24/Sep/09