Climbs 266
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces SW

As good as it gets in October! © Sean Kelly

Crag features

A uniquely unspoilt natural gritstone edge, the benefit of access restrictions,(see below) Excellent quality grit. Elevated position above moors, dries quickly, but exposed to the elements. Good climbs of all grades approx. 8 to 13m high. Seldom busy. First visit go to The Great Tor and sample the delights of Brown's Crack (HS 4b), Quien Sabe? (VS 4c), or Bilberry Crack (VS 5a). Tussle with Undercut Crack (E2 5b), sheer thuggary, or for something more delicate, try anything on The Salmon slab (E4/5 to E7). A gem of a place.

Approach notes

Approach from Bamford, north along A6013 to Ladybower. After 1 mile turn rt (Bamford Moor). Limited parking on side of rd. past edge where road starts to level out, just before a gate. Footpath leads up to RH end of edge (10 min).

Restricted Access

Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.

Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Remember you can't take your dog!
JohnHutch - 24/Sep/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Great Buttress - Upper TIer 
2End FaceVS 5b 2
3Wall Right of End FaceHS 4c 4
4Wall left of Easy ChimneyHVD 4a 7
5Easy ChimneyM 62
6PalpitationHS 4c 16
7ThumpingHVS 5c 3
8Thin on TopE2 5b 1
9Green and NastyE2 5c 10
10In My PocketE1 5b 2
11In My Pocket Arete
-
V0 8
12Initiation Wall
-
HVD 4a 7
13InitiationS 4a 51
14Introduction WallHS 4c 5
15IntroductionS 4a 10
16Beer MattersVS 5a 28
17Fat CatVS 5b 11
18Deep ChimneyM 71
19Gene
-
HS 4b 4
20KellyHS 4b *89
21Deaf Raspberry ClimbE1 5c 2
22Astronaut's WallHVS 5b *101
23PossibilityS 4a *326
24Primitive ChimneyVD 53
25The Overhang TraverseM 7
26Undercut CrackE2 5c **43
27A35E1 5b 1
28M35 (A35)E6 6c ** 
29Avoiding the TraitorsE7 6c **2
30Bad WindS 4a 13
31Claim to FameHVS 5a 11
32Terrace RibVS 4c 65
33Terrace TrogM *147
34Missing ASG
-
HVS 5a 2
35Terrace WallVS 4b 18
36Old WallHVS 5b *5
37Gargoyle FlakeVS 4c ***1805
38Gargoyle Gully LeftD 8
39Gargoyle Gully MiddleD 5
40Gargoyle Gully RightD 10
41SunsetS 4a 157
42BeelzebuggerHVS 5b 40
43Bum DealE1 5c *127
44Clean, Squeaky and ScentedE1 6a 8
45Hard RainE2 5c  
46Left WingS 4a 79
47Almost GraniteE1 5b *14
48TinnerHVS 5b *146
49Right-hand TwinHVS 5a *270
50Private PracticeE1 5b *37
51Solstice AreteVS 4c 66
 Great Tor - Lower Tier 
 The Salmon Boulders 
54Something SillyV5 1
55Something ElseV0 9
56Win Hill
-
V0 8
57Lose Hill
-
V3 11
58Ping Pong Pocket Rib
-
V7 5
59Flaky Fluster
-
V4 5
60Wriggly Crack
-
V0- 11
61Snap
-
V0 10
62Short Smart Slab Centre
-
V0 6
63Short Smart Slab Right Arete
-
V0- 5
 Salmon Slab Area 
65Shallow GrooveS 4a 7
66Hasta La Vista CornerVD 4
67Hasta La VistaHVD 3c 52
68Back FlipE1 5b *35
69Benberry WallE3 5b 12
70The Naked EyeE2 5b *20
71Bilberry Crack (Bamford)VS 5a **1057
72Recess CrackVD *517
73Recess GrooveHS 4b 98
74Jive Bunny
-
E4 5c  
75Nemmes SabeHVS 5a **114
76Nemmes Pas HarryE1 5b **483
77Quien Sabe?VS 4c ***1086
78Quien Sabe? EliminateE3 6a 1
79Brown's CrackHS 4b ***1547
80JetrunnerE4 6a **286
81Trout (Salmon Left-Hand)E6 6b ***24
82Salmon DirectE6 6c **9
83The SalmonE7 6c *1
84Smoked SalmonE7 7a *2
85Curving CrackVS 4c **677
86Poached SalmonE5 6c *15
87Tartar Sauce
-
E5 6b 1
88Sandy CrackHS 4b *274
89Quebec CityVS 4c *36
90Quebec City VariationHS 4b 4
91Greydon BoddingtonHVS 5b *100
92FizzE1 5c *199
93Two Real Doleys Scrounging
-
E3 6b  
94Flake Buttress Rib
-
HS 4b 6
95Kinked CrackVD 4
96The EggE4 6a 8
97High and DryE6 6b 3
98The Chicken
-
HVS 5a  
99Acid Slab
-
VD 5
100Assorted Batteries
-
HVS 5a  
101Various Undercuts
-
HVS 5a  
102Alkaline Arete
-
S 4a 3
 Wrinkled Wall Area 
104Klever
-
VS 5b 8
105Klueless
-
HS 5a 13
106K'Pow
-
V0 7
107Kin'eck Hanging CrackV0 9
108Kin 'eck
-
S 20
109You Won't Make Old Bones (Kin'eck Arete)VD 15
110Crystal Tips and AlistairHS 4b 6
111K'kin
-
HS 4c 14
112KpaxHS 4c 8
113K ProwVD 3
114The K KoleHS 4b 3
115Que? SlabD 148
116Que? Slab Direct/K Buttress Slab DirectD *384
117K Buttress SlabVD *390
118K Kole Aretef6B+ *15
119Ko'dV2 11
120Ko'd (no ledge)
-
V4 5
121K Buttress CrackS 4a **105
122K Buttress Crack DirectS 4c 9
123Wrong Hand RouteE1 5c **277
124SkarlatiE2 5b *40
125Fern ChimneyD 75
126Bracken CrackVD *295
127TomeV2 *4
128The Bookendf6B *21
129Bookend Right
-
V5 3
130The Plumber has Landedf6B *4
131Down to Earthf6A+ **66
132Crunchy Nuts/DebVS 5a 95
133Stoned
-
V2 1
134Petered Out
-
V0 10
135Wee LassieVS 5b 6
136Special KHVS 5b *11
137Dead Mouse CrackHS 4c 39
138Hanging CrackHS 4b 21
139BamboozerE2 6a 15
140Spikef7B ***4
141JasmineE6 6b **39
142Access AccountE3 6a *24
143Wrinkled WallVS 4c ***1366
144Old and WrinkledHVS 5a *230
145The CreaseE1 5a *869
146Sinuous CrackVD 266
147Duff Paddy
-
V4 1
148Save Dinnomite
-
V4 2
149Way Rood
-
V0 3
 Neb Buttress 
151Twiglet Wall
-
V2 1
152Monster Munch
-
V3 1
153CleopatraVS 4c 14
154Samson's DelightVS 4c *239
155Dirty Stop OutE2 5c **80
156DelilahHS 4b *95
157Delilah Crack
-
V0+ 15
158Short CurveHVD *336
159The Business Boyf6B *17
160Czech MateVS 5a 3
161SnuggazzabugHS 4b 4
162N.B. CornerD 138
163Big BenVS 4b 79
164ParliamentE1 5c *83
165Neb Buttress DirectHVS 5a ***245
166AuricleE2 5c **397
167Jumping Jack LonglandE3 5c *61
168Neb ButtressHVS 5a ***677
169Bamford RibHVS 5a **839
170Holly Crack
-
VD 16
171Bramble CrackVD 96
172The Happy WandererHVS 5a **558
173ReachVS 4c *477
174Bamford WallS 4a **1545
175Bamford ButtressS 4a *735
176Busy Day at BamfordVS 5a 93
177Twin CracksVS 4b *166
178Custard's Last StandHVS 5b *5
179Deep CleftM *176
180OracleHS 4b **302
181Sterling MossE4 6b *1
182OntosE3 6b **39
183Fatal InheritanceE4 6a 5
184PurgamentumE4 6b  
185Trouble with LichenHVS 5b **91
186Slanting SlabM 140
187Grey DaysE2 5c 2
188Three Little Pigs
-
HVD 4a 6
189Mur
-
V0+ 6
190Fente
-
V0- 6
191Cannalure
-
V1 6
 Porthole Buttress 
193Slab and Crack AreteD 31
194Slab and Crack (Bamford)D *277
195MoglichkeitHS 4b 96
196Plimsoll LineHVS 5b 45
197PortholeHVS 5b *163
198PortsideS 4a 381
199Portside StartV0- 23
200Leaning SlabVD *491
201A Treat for the Gimpf4 23
202Sloop John BHD 4b 7
203Trango 2 Left Arete
-
HS 4c 17
204Trango 2E3 5c 36
205Trango 2 Right Arete
-
HS 4b 15
 Christmas Themed Buttresses 
207DreamD 27
208QuinceVD 19
209SnugVD 20
210Midsummer MadnessHS 4b 15
211Dawn and DuskS 4b 12
212The Curse of the Shortening DayS 4b 15
213Midsummer WallVD 22
214Bilberry AreteVD 26
215Cold TurkeyS 4a 20
216StuffingVD 11
217Santa's PantsVD 10
218Overindulgence AreteHS 4b 16
219Trogolodyte's RouteD 16
220Christmas PuddingVD 25
221Christmas PresentVD 25
222Christmas CrackerD 32
223A Traditional ChristmasHS 4b 17
224Paxo AreteS 4a 18
225Chestnut ChimneyD 26
226MistletoeS 4c 20
227IvyVD 37
228HollyVD 38
229Bellyflop ExtravaganzaHVD 4a 14
230Feast of StephenHS 4c 24
231WenceslasD 25
232EbenezerS 4c 28
 Gun Buttress 
234Jumping the Gun
-
HS 4b 18
235Shadow WallVS 4b *359
236Life During WartimeE2 5c *56
237Randy's WallHVS 5a **368
238Magnum ForceHVS 5a *102
239Springboard
-
E1 5a 8
240Gunpowder CrackVS 5b **661
241Master BlasterE1 5c *43
242Loader's BayD 295
243AmmoS 4a 429
244Long JohnVS 5b *106
245Three Real Men DancingE2 6a *28
246Green ChimneyD 164
247Artillery CornerD 430
248GangwayVD 452
249Gangway Variation StartS 4b 87
250Gangway DirectHS 4c 82
251Green ParrotVS 5b *235
252A Minah Variation
-
V3 12
253Bosun's SlabM *518
254Concave SlabD 517
255Convex or PerplexedVS 5b 141
256Adjacent SlabVD 391
257Adjacent Slab (Direct)
-
S 4c 95
258HypotenuseM *536
259OppositeS 4a 549
260VertigoHS 4c *383
261Armed and DangerousE4 6a *12
262Dynamite GrooveHVS 5b 13
263Funny SideS 4a 47
264TopsideHS 4b *22
265Sunny SideS 4a *224
266Right SideS 4a 82
267Slopey SideHVS 5b 43
 Unplaced Routes 
269DownpourHS 4b  
270GasbagE2 5c * 
271Neb Buttress/Bamford Rib comboVS 4c *3
272Vegetated Chimney (by Down to Earth)
-
HVD 1
273Possibility - right hand finishS 4a 1
274Beachbugger *VS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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