Climbs 106
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces S

Hangover © jim jones

Crag features

Excellent rock, with steep routes; often sunny when the mountain crags are in cloud (read: rain). Pitches up to 150ft.

Approach notes

The crag overlooks the car park by Pont y Pair, the bridge at the NW end of the village.

 

Access Advice

Please do not park on the private road on the way up to the crag. Please park in the village. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Meirionnydd (2002)
Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)
The seat mentioned in some of the access notes doesn't seem to exist any more. The path takes an obvious zig-zag where I think its supposed to be. Just keep following the footpath up and you'll find the wall. The crag has been completely empty when I've been which is surprising given how good the location and climbing are. The scramble on the left can be a bit bad if damp and you don't take your approach shoes up to the top with you...
j616s - 08/Jun/16
The photo of the approach in the Rockfax book has a sign in it - that sign is no longer present, but the approach is still easy to find.
MatthewV - 26/Apr/15
Conwy Buttress quite vegetated in April 2014 when we visited - limited climbs easily available
beksch - 14/Apr/14
Access advice: from the Pont y Pair car park follow the road up until, after a 100m or so, you reach a sharp right turn (residential road shown as a cul-de-sac). After about 100m this becomes a tarmac Forestry Commission road which soon turns sharp left past three houses on the right. After these take a right on a rough forest road then a footpath towards Pen-yr-Allt. Take a right by a seat and Main Cliff is above you.
Rog Wilko - 06/Jun/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Main Cliff 
2Holly Groove
-
M 9
3The Ramp
-
HVS 5a *35
4Jingling WallHS 4b **314
5Something by Accident (Jingling Wall alternate finish)VS 4c 2
6Bombers Wall Route OneHS 4b *169
7Bombers Wall Route Two
-
HS 4b 55
8The Phantom
-
HVS 5b 15
9Private PracticeE3 5c **16
10Hangover
-
E2 5b 13
11Hywel DdaE2 5b *28
12Long Climb
-
VD 44
13Central Route One
-
VS 4c 22
14Central Route TwoVS 4c *81
15Long Climb DirectS **244
16Curry Wall
-
E1 5a 10
17Oes Ots?
-
E1 5b 1
18Hen Bryd
-
S *63
19Consolation
-
S 24
20Panorama
-
VS 4b 5
 Conwy Buttress 
22Wall Climb
-
S 10
23Wall Street
-
S 6
24Walnut
-
VS 4c 5
25Waterloo
-
E3 6a  
26Swing High
-
VS 4b **22
27Swing Low
-
HVS 5a 5
28Con Trick
-
E1 5b 15
29Conwy Corner
-
S ***190
30Diagonal Climb
-
VD 14
31Caerhun
-
VS 4c 4
32Academy
-
HS 4b *29
33Daear
-
VS 4c  
34Tyrch
-
VS 4c  
35Hironimo
-
VS 4c 2
36Irish Rover
-
E2 5b 3
37Wild Rover Arete
-
E2 5b *3
38The Artful Dodger
-
VS 4c 1
39Precedent
-
S 3
40Stripper
-
S **20
41Stripper Direct
-
HS 4b *6
42Slide-Show
-
S 1
43Knight Time
-
HS 4b 1
44Fatal Attraction
-
E2 5b  
45Bat In Action
-
HVS 5a  
46The Bat
-
HVS 5a  
47Tree Climb
-
VD 11
48Wolf Rib
-
S 1
 Little Buttress 
50Nicw
-
E3 6a 16
51Sion
-
S 173
52Sian
-
VD 158
53Siencyn
-
S 108
54Del
-
E3 5c 10
55Little Chimney
-
VD 147
56Groove
-
M1  
57The Groove
-
VD 152
58The Groove (Left Wall Finish)S 4a 20
59Morus
-
VD 37
60Ifan
-
VD 38
61The Arete (Easy Start)
-
VD 30
62The AreteHS 4b 123
63Direct RouteVS 4c *137
64Eliminate StartHVS 5a 90
65PryderiVS 4c *111
66GwydionVS 4c *77
67Wanderer
-
HS 4b *33
68Raining Stones
-
HS 4b 8
 Craig Cynhelier 
70Jackdaw Cracks
-
HS 7
71Pecker Rib
-
VD 5
72Juggernaut
-
E2 5b 1
73The Keen Haulier
-
VS 4c *2
74Trucker
-
HVS 5b 2
75Cofiadwy
-
E2 5b * 
76Lasting Impressions
-
VS 4c  
77Achub Ni
-
VS 4c 1
78Piton Route
-
E2 5b  
79Dr Mayhead's Idea
-
HS 4b 1
80Hiraeth
-
HVS 5a 2
81Way Out West
-
HS 4b *7
 Central Slabs 
83Face Climb
-
VD 2
84Wall and Corner
-
VD *4
85Last Exit
-
VS 4b  
86Arrow Head
-
HVS 5a **8
87YKK
-
VS 4c 4
88Zip Wall
-
VS 4c 1
89Mystery Wall
-
S *5
90Problem Wall
-
S  
91Depression
-
HVS 5a  
92Earthworm Direct
-
HVS 5a  
93Earthworm
-
VS 4c  
94Little X
-
HVS 5a  
95The Fate Of Icarus
-
HVS 5a ** 
96Flight Of Fancy
-
E3 5b  
97Loose Connection
-
HVS 5a  
98Illusion
-
HS 4b 1
99Delusion
-
HS 4b 1
100Ivy's Rib
-
HS 4b  
101Yellow Peril
-
S  
 Little Wall 
103Grug
-
HS 4b 2
104Llys
-
VS 4c *1
105At a Pinch
-
E5 6c  
106The Corner
-
E2 5b 1
107The Edge
-
E2 5b 2
108Osian
-
VS 4c 1
109Nia Ben Aur
-
HS 4b *1
110All Work
-
S 4a 1
111Forgotten Child
-
VS 4c  
112No Play
-
VS 4b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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