Climbs 106
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces S

Hangover © jim jones

Crag features

Excellent rock, with steep routes; often sunny when the mountain crags are in cloud (read: rain). Pitches up to 150ft.

Approach notes

The crag overlooks the car park by Pont y Pair, the bridge at the NW end of the village.

 

Access Advice

Please do not park on the private road on the way up to the crag. Please park in the village. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Meirionnydd (2002)
Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)
The seat mentioned in some of the access notes doesn't seem to exist any more. The path takes an obvious zig-zag where I think its supposed to be. Just keep following the footpath up and you'll find the wall. The crag has been completely empty when I've been which is surprising given how good the location and climbing are. The scramble on the left can be a bit bad if damp and you don't take your approach shoes up to the top with you...
j616s - 08/Jun/16
The photo of the approach in the Rockfax book has a sign in it - that sign is no longer present, but the approach is still easy to find.
MatthewV - 26/Apr/15
Conwy Buttress quite vegetated in April 2014 when we visited - limited climbs easily available
beksch - 14/Apr/14
Access advice: from the Pont y Pair car park follow the road up until, after a 100m or so, you reach a sharp right turn (residential road shown as a cul-de-sac). After about 100m this becomes a tarmac Forestry Commission road which soon turns sharp left past three houses on the right. After these take a right on a rough forest road then a footpath towards Pen-yr-Allt. Take a right by a seat and Main Cliff is above you.
Rog Wilko - 06/Jun/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Main Cliff 
2Holly Groove
-
M 9
3The Ramp
-
HVS 5a *35
4Jingling WallHS 4b **303
5Something by Accident (Jingling Wall alternate finish)VS 4c 2
6Bombers Wall Route OneHS 4b *158
7Bombers Wall Route Two
-
HS 4b 52
8The Phantom
-
HVS 5b 15
9Private PracticeE3 5c **16
10Hangover
-
E2 5b 13
11Hywel DdaE2 5b *23
12Long Climb
-
VD 44
13Central Route One
-
VS 4c 21
14Central Route TwoVS 4c *78
15Long Climb DirectS **229
16Curry Wall
-
E1 5a 10
17Oes Ots?
-
E1 5b 1
18Hen Bryd
-
S *63
19Consolation
-
S 23
20Panorama
-
VS 4b 5
 Conwy Buttress 
22Wall Climb
-
S 10
23Wall Street
-
S 6
24Walnut
-
VS 4c 5
25Waterloo
-
E3 6a  
26Swing High
-
VS 4b **22
27Swing Low
-
HVS 5a 5
28Con Trick
-
E1 5b 15
29Conwy Corner
-
S ***178
30Diagonal Climb
-
VD 14
31Caerhun
-
VS 4c 4
32Academy
-
HS 4b *29
33Daear
-
VS 4c  
34Tyrch
-
VS 4c  
35Hironimo
-
VS 4c 2
36Irish Rover
-
E2 5b 3
37Wild Rover Arete
-
E2 5b *3
38The Artful Dodger
-
VS 4c 1
39Precedent
-
S 3
40Stripper
-
S **20
41Stripper Direct
-
HS 4b *6
42Slide-Show
-
S 1
43Knight Time
-
HS 4b 1
44Fatal Attraction
-
E2 5b  
45Bat In Action
-
HVS 5a  
46The Bat
-
HVS 5a  
47Tree Climb
-
VD 11
48Wolf Rib
-
S 1
 Little Buttress 
50Nicw
-
E3 6a 15
51Sion
-
S 170
52Sian
-
VD 152
53Siencyn
-
S 106
54Del
-
E3 5c 10
55Little Chimney
-
VD 144
56The Groove
-
VD 151
57The Groove (Left Wall Finish)S 4a 20
58Morus
-
VD 36
59Ifan
-
VD 38
60The Arete (Easy Start)
-
VD 30
61The AreteHS 4b 122
62Direct RouteVS 4c *132
63Eliminate StartHVS 5a 86
64PryderiVS 4c *106
65GwydionVS 4c *75
66Wanderer
-
HS 4b *32
67Raining Stones
-
HS 4b 8
 Craig Cynhelier 
69Jackdaw Cracks
-
HS 7
70Pecker Rib
-
VD 5
71Juggernaut
-
E2 5b 1
72The Keen Haulier
-
VS 4c *2
73Trucker
-
HVS 5b 2
74Cofiadwy
-
E2 5b * 
75Lasting Impressions
-
VS 4c  
76Achub Ni
-
VS 4c 1
77Piton Route
-
E2 5b  
78Dr Mayhead's Idea
-
HS 4b 1
79Hiraeth
-
HVS 5a 2
80Way Out West
-
HS 4b *7
 Central Slabs 
82Face Climb
-
VD 2
83Wall and Corner
-
VD *4
84Last Exit
-
VS 4b  
85Arrow Head
-
HVS 5a **8
86YKK
-
VS 4c 4
87Zip Wall
-
VS 4c 1
88Mystery Wall
-
S *5
89Problem Wall
-
S  
90Depression
-
HVS 5a  
91Earthworm Direct
-
HVS 5a  
92Earthworm
-
VS 4c  
93Little X
-
HVS 5a  
94The Fate Of Icarus
-
HVS 5a ** 
95Flight Of Fancy
-
E3 5b  
96Loose Connection
-
HVS 5a  
97Illusion
-
HS 4b 1
98Delusion
-
HS 4b 1
99Ivy's Rib
-
HS 4b  
100Yellow Peril
-
S  
 Little Wall 
102Grug
-
HS 4b 2
103Llys
-
VS 4c *1
104At a Pinch
-
E5 6c  
105The Corner
-
E2 5b 1
106The Edge
-
E2 5b 2
107Osian
-
VS 4c 1
108Nia Ben Aur
-
HS 4b *1
109All Work
-
S 4a 1
110Forgotten Child
-
VS 4c  
111No Play
-
VS 4b  

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