Climbs 22
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 194m a.s.l
Faces S

Nurgling through the overlaps, pitch 2 © Tim Sparrow

Crag features

Originally described as 'a tiny crag', the Southern of the two cliffs at Craig Dinas is in fact over 45m (160') high.

The rock is compact rhyolite and in character,very similar to Carreg Alltrem just down the valley, giving very enjoyable climbing in low to mid grades. .

The centre of the South (Main) Cliff is occupied by a massive pillar ('The Boulder') with the 'Gulls nest crack' on its left and a large overhang/cave to the right.

Approach notes

Lies above the Silver Fountain hotel on the A5 about 1.5mi from Betws y Coed. Park in the large 'National Trust' layby in the quarried area alongside the A5, North of Conwy Falls at SH808537.

Walk via the 'Silver fountain carpark to the public footpath heading North.

A large scree fan betwen the two cliffs is crossed by a faint path but BEWARE - in summer the vegetation takes over and a machete, native guide and sense of adventure may be needed. Approach is upwards of 15 minutes depending on vegetation.

Descent can also be interesting - the top of the climbs is a gorse and heather plateau, with descent down through the broad steep gully separating the two cliffs.  

Guidebooks

The house sized block 300 m west of main crag?? Well, the A5 is 200 m west of the main crag and 100m west of that is nothing just steep fields and woods down to the Afon Conwy. The mention of pockets suggests the post may refer to a different crag entirely?
Mike Hammill - 03/Jul/15
This Crag is also in the Meirionnydd guide.....
amazingdave - 01/Jun/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Cliff 
2ShengVS 5a  
3The WandererHS  
 South Cliff 
5CrosswaysVS 1
6By-waysS 13
7By-ways (Variation 1)VS 4b 2
8By-ways (Variation 2)S  
9Scrub WayHS *10
10Dinas Mawr EliminateE1 5b *5
11Main Wall ClimbVS 4c *7
12Gull's Nest CrackS 4a 4
13The NurglerVS 4b **30
14The Bolder WayVS 1
15FreewayHVS 1
16DesireHS 4b 4
17Groove SlabVS *6
18Moss RibS 1
 Top Buttress 
20White RabbitS 1
21Overhangs Indirect
-
VS 4c 3
 House sized crag 300m West ? 
23MollzerVS 4c 1
24Bat GrooveHVS 5a * 
25HafE4 6a ** 
 Teaching area 
27Teaching WallD 1

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