Altitude 526m a.s.l
Climbing at chateaudouble deep in Provence © brianrunner
A fine and extensive crag, set high above the valley floor, with a series of tall buttresses jutting from the trees. The crag gets plenty of sunshine and dries surprisingly quickly, despite the tree cover. Many of the pitches are very big, bring plenty of quick-draws - 15 should cover most routes - and a 70m rope.
The tree-covered bases offer some respite from summer heat. The cliffs can be slow to dry after rain and any wind tends to whistle through the gorge. In winter, calm sunny days are the best choice.
Leave Châteaudouble towards Ampus and, 0.6km west of the last building in Châteaudouble, turn left into a narrow and bumpy track. About 0.5km down here is parking for about 20 cars in the clearing. This is at the point the road crosses a (very) small valley on slightly raised causeway. From the parking, walk down the valley as it narrows and steepens. After a rocky section, the tree-filled valley opens out. Follow the pink-marked tracks rightwards (looking out) to locate the right-hand end of the cliff.
The barrier at the end of the track may be closed for shooting or if there is an elevated fire risk. The track is a bit narrow for larger vehicles. Use of the parking area is permitted on the understanding that it is not used for camping in tent or car.
|The D955 is still closed (November 2012). If coming from the A8 it is probably best to follow the D54. The track is indeed very bumpy! Might be better to park somewhere on the road and walk down the track.|
Matt Bill Platypus - 06/Nov/12
|This is a lovely crag, about 20 minutes easy walk from the road and nice rural views out over the valley and back to the picturesque town of chateaudouble. In March 12 the D955 road was closed and we had to approach via Amps. We also left the car at the road as the 'narrow and bumpy track' looked too extreme for our hire car!|
brianrunner - 02/Apr/12