Climbs 83
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 526m a.s.l
Faces SE

Climbing at chateaudouble deep in Provence © brianrunner

Crag features

A fine and extensive crag, set high above the valley floor, with a series of tall buttresses jutting from the trees. The crag gets plenty of sunshine and dries surprisingly quickly, despite the tree cover. Many of the pitches are very big, bring plenty of quick-draws - 15 should cover most routes - and a 70m rope.

The tree-covered bases offer some respite from summer heat. The cliffs can be slow to dry after rain and any wind tends to whistle through the gorge. In winter, calm sunny days are the best choice.

Approach notes

Leave Châteaudouble towards Ampus and, 0.6km west of the last building in Châteaudouble, turn left into a narrow and bumpy track. About 0.5km down here is parking for about 20 cars in the clearing. This is at the point the road crosses a (very) small valley on slightly raised causeway. From the parking, walk down the valley as it narrows and steepens. After a rocky section, the tree-filled valley opens out. Follow the pink-marked tracks rightwards (looking out) to locate the right-hand end of the cliff.

The barrier at the end of the track may be closed for shooting or if there is an elevated fire risk. The track is a bit narrow for larger vehicles. Use of the parking area is permitted on the understanding that it is not used for camping in tent or car. 

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Guidebooks

France : Côte d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
The D955 is still closed (November 2012). If coming from the A8 it is probably best to follow the D54. The track is indeed very bumpy! Might be better to park somewhere on the road and walk down the track.
Matt Bill Platypus - 06/Nov/12
This is a lovely crag, about 20 minutes easy walk from the road and nice rural views out over the valley and back to the picturesque town of chateaudouble. In March 12 the D955 road was closed and we had to approach via Amps. We also left the car at the road as the 'narrow and bumpy track' looked too extreme for our hire car!
brianrunner - 02/Apr/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Paklenika 
2Carton-pâte6a *** 
3Trouver le pas du danseur7b ***1
4Arma Bianca7b+ *** 
5Watysit7a ***3
6L'Hexomil7a+ *** 
7Compte tenu du facteur humane8b *** 
8S'adapter ou disparaître7c *** 
9Le Mox8a ***1
10Totale bricole8a ***1
11Demerde à ou?7c *** 
12Boucan6b+ ***4
13L'incertitude demeure6a **2
14Comment y lé?7b * 
15Paklenika6a+ ***2
16Pac-Panik6c ***1
17L'addition6c+ *** 
18Trop facile lo zafer5c * 
19La peur du Képi8a+ * 
20La moucat4a *2
21Le mage à dit5a ***5
22Douce France!5c ***5
 Un Point de Vie 
24J'avais un ami6a ***6
25L'homme pressé5c ***5
26Magic noire6c *** 
27Soufre et bonheur6b+ ***2
28Moi vouloir grimper6b+ ***1
29Mûrir dans Muru6b+ ***4
30L'estafilade6c+ *** 
31Le Viagra7a **1
32Yes3+ 5
33Le Moucat a perdu le couteau (P1)4c **6
34Le Moucat a perdu le couteau6c **1
35Oté Zoreil?4a *7
36Le Kinous de nous4a *8
37Le bonheur est aux Marinouns4c *9
38Un point de vie (P1)5a ***10
39Un point de vie4c **4
40Abraracourcix6b+ ***3
41Mikulas (P1)4c *2
42Mikulas6c+ ** 
43Gibbon (P1)5a *2
44Gibbon6c **2
45Snake (P1)5a *3
46Snake7b **1
47Mulot fâché6a ***8
 Grouille à ou? 
49Krabi-Krabi5c ***6
50Tuck-Tuck6b ***1
51Happy Papa6b+ **1
52Morning Price5c ***4
53Acta-X6a+ ***1
54Shingha7a ***4
55Arthrose7b ***2
56Grouille à ou?8a *** 
57Couleur Malabar7c ***1
58Zoreil (P1)6c **1
59Zoreil7b ***3
60Big Tschang (P1)5c * 
61Big Tschang6c *** 
 Code Secret 
63Oriane6a ***2
64Slim-Fast5c ***1
65Carte grise5c ***7
66L'échelle au Pépé5a ***4
67Lumière de Noêl6a+ ***1
68Code Secret (P1)6b ***3
69Code Secret7a+ *** 
70Érection totale7a+ ***1
71Solstice (P1)6a+ **6
72Solstice7a+ ***1
73Dernière séance6b ***6
74Rusalka (P1)6b+ ***2
75Rusalka7a+ *** 
76L'hôtel des ronguers (P1)5c ***6
77L'hôtel des ronguers6b+ *** 
78Sourire de chauve-souris (P1)5c ***10
79Sourire de chauve-souris6b+ ***3
80Roi de galettes6a ***5
81Kali mera5c ***3
 Ti Paille 
83Le pays des mulets7a+ ***1
84Avant mi sava7a ***1
85Ti paille en queue6c+ ***1
86Rougail saucisse8a *** 
87Le début de la faim7c+ *** 
88Ti punch7c *** 

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