Glenbrittle DWS

Climbs 9 – Rocktype Gabbro – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
These two small DWS buttresses lie within a mile of the beach at Glenbrittle. Nine routes have been completed to date, although there is room for more, possible dangerous DWS at both sectors. Together, these two sectors would provide the easy to mid-grade climber with a half-day to day's worth of good, largely safe climbing on solid rock and easily accessible from the campsite. Probably a good option when the Cuillins are in cloud or any time! The line of the crags is the excellent Haul Away Joe, which should not be missed.

NORTHERN SECTOR

The water here is too shallow to be safe at low tide, but a mid to high tide should be OK for most of the lines (although a spring high will cover the base of the routes), with the exception of Jim'll Fix It which is above only three feet of water at low tide and the starting moves of Owlman of Ponsanooth, which cover the same ground. There are a few obvious (and perhaps some less obvious) submerged boulders along the line of The Mayor of Praze an Beeble, but these tend to be along very easy sections of the route. High tide can make the exits a bit tricky as the sea surges into the zawn rather violently.

SOUTHERN SECTOR

This larger area currently has five existing routes, with potential for more. The zawn is caracterised by the massive patterned sea-cave at its rear, somewhat reminiscent of the Cave Hole area of Portland; all routes begin with one of two traverses from the mouth of the zawn in towards this cave, before ascending at various points. Every route is above deep clear water and all are safe with the exception of the awkward exit of Claire's Big Day Out, which is above boulders.

The routes should be climbable at every state of a neap tide and exits are good on both sides of the zawn.

Disclaimer. As the moderator of the crag I'm also one of the first ascentionists of all these routes. I've made an effort to swim around to check depth in the Northern Sector, and the depth is obvious in the Southern Sector. Depths and therefore safety of the routes are reflected in the S-grades, but I take no responsibility at all for their accuracy at any given state of the tide.

Access notes
NORTHERN SECTOR

From the campsite, follow the lower path on the east side of the loch past the water tanks, and for 200m south of the beach, past three vegetated bays until one obviously larger bay with steep vegetated walls is reached. The Mayor of Praze and Beeble starts on the buttress at the southern end of this bay.

Beyond the first buttress is a deep narrow zawn with a pebble beach and small waterfall. The next buttress accross the narrow zawn is steeper and home to The Owl Man of Ponsanooth.

SOUTHERN SECTOR

Continue along the coastal path for about 3/4 mile past the Northern Sector. Once drawn level with the first low rocky outcrops above the path, head down large open bowl slopes towards the coast to the square cut zawn of the Southern Sector. The first three routes Sausage', Row Bullies Row and Haul Away Joe are all on the north wall of the zawn. Claire's' and Cosmo' are on the southern wall, descend easily.

Climbs at this crag

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Last

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