Burbage North

Climbs 400 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 420m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fairly continuous section of small natural buttress (8 - 15m) of good grit. A popular Summer evening soloing and bouldering venue with routes mainly in the lower to middle grades. Classics include Mutiny Crack (VS 4b), The Knight's Move (HVS 5a), Obscenity (VS 4c), Amazon Crack (HS 4a) and Long Tall Sally (E1 5b). Living in Oxford (E7 6c) and Superstition (E8 7a)await repeats. Get to it!

Access notes
Approach from the Upper Burbage Bridge (SK 263829 - car parking) in less than 2 min! A more leisurely approach can be made up the Burbage Valley from just below The Fox House Inn (SK 267803). Both starts accessible by bus from Sheffield.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE CHANT  
2North RoofV3 6a 58
3RT Wallf5+ 93
4RT Wall - Right sideV2 5c 42
5Route 1HS 4b *1043
6Route 1.25f5+ 154
7Route 1.5f5 *632
8Route 2S 4a *1620
9Route 2.5f5 *452
10Route 3S 4a *1548
11Route 3.5f6A 58
12Route 4f5+ *295
13Route 5HVD 4a 480
14First Wall TraverseV2 5c 84
15Cranberry WallVD 700
16Cranberry CrackVD 1464
17The ChantHVS 5a *1111
18The Chant Direct FinishE2 6a 82
19Chant - Direct StartHVS 5b 155
20Chant - Right SideHVS 5c 68
2120 Foot CrackS 4b *1823
22The Twenty Foot TraverseV3 6a 41
23Curse - Left SideVS 5b 70
24The Cursef5 *668
25Lost in Francef5+ *482
 TRIANGLE BUTTRESS  
27Triangle Buttress GirdleS 4b 42
28Little PlumbD 819
29Base Over ApexVS 4c 292
30BaselessHVD *981
31Triangle Buttress AreteVD *1108
32Triangle Buttress DirectS 4a *589
33Triangle Buttress Direct Startf5 682
34Triangle CrackHVD 4a *668
35Leaning WallS 4b 235
36Leaning Wall Really DirectE1 6a 16
37Leaning Wall DirectHS 5a *649
38Little White JugVS 4c *377
39Big Black 'unHVS 5a *233
40SteptoeM *774
41... and SonD 28
42Triangle Buttress Low Level TraverseV3 6a 31
 BANANA FINGER  
44Monkey WallM 720
45Monkey Wall DirectD 34
46Monkey Wall Slot *VS 4c 1
47Definitive 5.12f6C *60
48Cinzano Rooff7B 7
49Cinzano Roof (RH Start)f6C *6
50Monkey CrackV1 5c 50
51Monkey CornerHVD *759
52Monkey Corner VariantV2 5c 22
53Banana AreteV2 5c 95
54Banana Reversef7A 84
55Banana Finger Directf6C *280
56Banana Fingerf6A **944
57Banana Right-handV2 5c 9
58Sloper Pullf6C *22
59Monk OnHVS 5b 112
 OVERHANGING BUTTRESS  
61Ad InfinitumS 4a *233
62Little Brown ThugV5 6b 28
63Wednesday ClimbHVS 5b *350
64Life in a Radioactive Dustbinf6C *72
65The Disposable BubbleE4 6b 17
66Overhanging Buttress DirectS 4a *1170
67Overhang Buttress VariationVD 4a 98
68Overhanging Buttress AreteM *959
69Burgess FaceHS 4c 171
70Burgess ButtressD 591
71Burgess StreetD 348
72Union StreetS 4a 4
 ALL QUIET AREA  
74All Quiet on the Eastern Frontf6A+ *256
75All Quiet Directf7A+ 45
76All Sit-Downf7B+ 5
77The BuskerVS 4c 406
78Bracken AreteVS 4c 76
79Bracken CrackHVD 4a *596
80Green SlabVS 5a 485
81Fallen Slab LipV6 20
 REMERGENCE BUTTRESS  
83The GroganHVS 5c *226
84GroatE1 6b 7
85Al's AreteE1 5c 4
86Wollock Left HandE1 5b 7
87WollockHVS 4c *303
88Wollock DirectHVS 5c 65
89Wollock problemV2 5c 15
90PulcherrimeVS 4b *843
91Slanting CrackVD 311
92Small is Beautifulf7A *67
93Slanting GullyD 175
94Chockstone ClimbVD *164
95SnatchE3 6a 3
96Stomach TraverseHVS 4c *99
97TiptoeVS 4c *103
98GymnipodiesE4 6b  
99The Hanging Ribf6B **322
100Submergencef7C 18
101Blind Drunkf8A 3
102RemergenceE4 6b **40
103Remergence Startf6B 295
104Blind DateE4 7a *15
105Blind Date Startf7B+ 48
106Blind Figf7C 15
107Blind Alif7B+ 12
108Break Traversef7C+  
109One sloper eliminatef7B 10
110Two sloper eliminatef6C 22
111Mutiny CrackHS 4b ***1499
112MeddleHVS 5a *179
113DetourS 4a *300
114DiversionHVS 5a 36
115Dead Tree CrackHS 4b *113
116Tree Stump TraverseV2 6a 54
117Side FaceS 4a 115
118Side Order ChaosVS 5a 23
119And BeakerHVS 5b 10
120Tiny Slab - Left AreteV0+ 5a *229
121Tiny Slab - LeftV1 5b *254
122Tiny Slab - RightV2 6a *165
123Tiny Slab - Right AreteV4 6b 55
124SolitudeV5 6b 23
 ASH TREE BOULDERS  
126Ash Tree Big SlabVB 27
127Gruesome MantelV3 *13
128Jammed Block MantelV2 20
129Easy AreteVB 27
130Undecut Block LeftV0+ 21
131Undercut Block RightV0+ 19
 ASH TREE WALL  
133Ash Tree Little SlabV1 25
134Sunlight CallerVS 5b 55
135Oak FaceHS 4b 68
136Boggle BoothroydVS 4c 37
137The Last Great ProblemHVS 5c 14
138Striker Left-handf7A+ **15
139Strikerf7C+ 1
140Beach Tea OneHVS 6a *25
141Ivy TreeHVS 5b *171
142Poison IvyE1 6a 15
143All Star's GoalE1 6a 51
144Evening WallE1 5b *210
145Wall ChimneyS 4a *95
146Happily Ever AfterE6 6c *3
147NefertitiE6 6c *12
148Wall CornerHVD 4a *679
149Wall Corner The Direct FinishVS 4c *128
150Ash Tree AreteVS 4c 23
151Ash Tree GirdleS 4a 40
152Ash Tree VariationsVS 5c *541
153Ash Tree WallS 4a **1433
154Ash Tree Wall EliminateVS 5b 45
155Ash Trees ForeverHVS 5b *198
156Ash Tree CrackVD *1272
157Artificial StimulantE2 5b *179
158Bilberry CrackVD *1049
159Bilberry FaceS 4a 655
160Bilberry AreteM 257
161Calvin KlimbE4 6b  
162Twin CracksVD 16
163Rope TrickHS 4c 26
164Who Needs Ropes?M 42
165Head-BangerS 27
166A Phenomenological ProblemHVS 5b 20
167Late Night Antics *HVS 5c 2
168Early Morning PerformanceHVS 5c 14
169With a Little Help from my FriendsE1 5b 2
170NavanaE6 6b *2
171Leaning Block CrackVD 54
172Living in OxfordE7 7a **2
173Sitting in Oxfordf7A+ *6
174Puckf7B *5
175Superstitionf8A ** 
176The Promisef7C ***2
177Green ChimneyVD *86
 THE TERRACE  
179The Terrace Left-handf7C 1
180The Terracef7C+ 94
181Jason's Rooff7C 5
182Jason's stand-upV6 6b 24
183Hanging arête V7 3
184Hanging WallV5 6b 33
185La Terracef8A  
186Hanging Wall Sitterf7A 63
 THE SPHINX AREA  
188Gizaf7C 20
189The SphinxE5 6c 22
190Voyagerf8B ***4
191Voyager Sit StartV14  
192Sputnikf7B *1
193Cleo's Edgef5+ 279
194Cleo's Right HandV0- 4a 135
195Cleo's SlabVB 43
196Cleo's Other EdgeVB 37
197Sphinx SlabV0 4c 25
198Roof Goofef6B 85
199Roof Goofe RightV4 6b 26
200Jetty ArettyV2 5c 64
201Jetty ButtressHVD 4b **86
202Jetty NoseV3 6a 21
203Pocket Passerf6A+ 103
204Jetty BulgeV4 6b 63
205Safe Betf6C 49
206Bedrockf7A *17
207Yabbadabbadoo!f6C 49
208Answer the PhoneVS 5b 21
 THE SENTINEL  
210Chicken BrothHVD 4a 9
211Sharks Fin SoupHVS 4c 6
212The GargoyleE2 5c 6
213Phillipa ButtressVS 4c 19
214Crystal TipsE3 6a 42
215Stepped CrackD 426
216Black Slab AreteS 4a 345
217Black SlabVS 4b *895
218Black Slab VariationD *686
219Green GrooveHVD 3c 91
220Now or NeverE1 5b **388
221Too Good To Be ForgottenE2 6a 6
222Sentinel ChimneyHVD 4a *234
223The SentinelE2 5b ***443
224Sentinel IndirectHVS 5a 20
225Sentinel Crack (Burbage North)D *644
226Present ArmsHS 4c 223
227'ArmlessD 20
228High FlyerE2 5b *69
229The GrazerVS 5a *553
230LiebackHS 4b *805
231Think of EnglandM 139
232RingoS 4a *867
233Ring My BellE4 6a 1
234Damp TrousersE1 5a **3
235Ring PieceHVS 6a 59
236Ring ClimbS 4a *667
237Ring ChimneyD 274
238Agnostic's AreteVS 5a *204
239PickpocketVS 4c *155
240Cleft right of PickpocketD 9
 KNIGHTS MOVE  
242Seventy NinerVS 4c 8
243The KefferHVS 5a *235
244With Juicy BitsHVS 5a 12
245Small BeerHS 4a 20
246Still OrangeS 4a *954
247Rise N ShineHVS 5a 24
248Green CrackVD *733
249Dover's ProgressHVS 5a *264
250Hollyash CrackVS 4b **1069
251En PassantE2 6a 3
252Knight's MoveHVS 5a ***2200
253Peter's ProgressVS 4c **151
254Arme BlancheE5 6a *20
255Great CrackVS 5a **446
256The Big ChimneyHS 4b *129
257WindjammerE1 5b *173
258The RainmakerHVS 5b **287
259Big Chimney AreteHS 4b *756
260Barry ManilowVS 4c *167
 BOYAGER  
262Boyagerf7A+ ***59
263Mono Bulgef7B **4
264Monochromef7B ***44
265Asylum Sikaf7B **12
266Ripple Riserf6B 7
267Duo bulge *f6B 2
 TWIN CHIMNEYS TO THARF CAKE  
269December ClimbVD 13
270SnowflakesVD 13
271Survivor's SyndromeE2 5b 3
272Twin Chimneys LaybackHVD 4a **259
273Left Twin ChimneyVD 49
274Right Twin ChimneyHVD 46
275The Happy SlapperHVS 5a 29
276Jimmy RiddleVS 4c 23
277Always another oneVS 5b 9
278BulletproofE1 6a 17
279Split Slab CrackS 4a 98
280Split SlabHVD 4b *87
281Slide AwayE1 5a *41
282Grotto SlabM 157
283Grotto Slab VariantS 3c 23
284Grotto CrackVS 4b 29
285SubmissionVS 5a *113
286TemptationHS 4a 4
287Falstaff's ChimneyVD *88
288Falstaff's InnominateS 4b *295
289Falstaff's CrackD 218
290Pale FaceHVS 5a 19
291Horse NationE1 5b  
292Bilberry CakeVS 4c *420
293Bilberry WallVD *476
294Bilberry AreteS 4a *337
295The Edging MachineHVS 5b 75
296Alpha CrackHS 4b 184
297Omega CrackVD 205
298BlinkersVS 4c 9
299Scarred Buttress ClimbVD *262
300ClinkersVS 5a 2
301First CrackS 4b 389
302Tharf CakeHVS 5a *264
303Left Twin CrackS 4a *509
304Right Twin CrackHVD 4a *435
305Farcical AreteHS 4b *296
 BROOKS' LAYBACK  
307The Irrepressible UrgeE1 5b **153
308The Arctic MammalE3 6a *12
309Small Arctic MammalE1 6a 33
310Left Recess CrackS 3c *465
311Right Recess CrackHS 4a 144
312AceVS 4b *216
313The ChimneyD 56
314The CrackHS 4a 77
315Ace Sharp AreteV3 6a 6
316Thrall's ThrutchS 4a *55
317Brooks' LaybackHS 4b **813
318Wobblestone CrackHVD 4a *467
319Biscuits for BreakfastE4 6b 3
320Red ShiftE3 5c 2
 LONG TALL SALLY  
322Hollybush GullyVD 109
323The ScreamerE1 5c *23
324Gazebo WatusiE6 6b *1
325ObscenityVS 4c ***368
326Amazon CrackHS 4b ***1228
327ArtemisHVS 5a 2
328Amazon GullyM 213
329Boney MoroneyE2 5c *93
330RockersE1 5c *7
331Long Tall SallyE1 5b ***1269
332Three Blind MiceE7 6c **32
333Greeny CrackVS 4b **787
334Rhapsody in GreenHVS 5a 51
335Left Studio ClimbVD 305
336The ArtistVS 5a 26
337Right Studio ClimbVD 341
338Rose FlakeVS 4b *274
3396c Arete below Long Tall Sallyf6C 12
340The FinE1 5b *161
341Ai No CorridaE5 6b **44
342Right FinHVS 5a **622
343Twenty Year ItchE4 6b 5
344The Enthusiastf6A+ *49
345Nicotine Stainf6B **153
346Nicaretef5 *3
347April FoolHVD 322
348Approachf5+ *64
349Spider CrackVS 5b *526
350The Be AllHVD 4a 308
351Pest ControlV4 6b 6
352The End AllHS 4b 121
 END SLAB  
354Shelf Wallf5+ 40
355Unnamed #3HS 4b 12
356End ButtressD 325
357The PenultimateE1 5b *263
358Right Arete V6 2
359End SlabD *592
360False End SlabD 41
361End Slab RampD 59
362Two Pocket Sitterf5+ *182
363Plank Sanction *V8 **2
364Front End SlabVD 34
365Back End SlabD 377
366EnderD *557
367Crack Habit *f5 *17
368Endest AreteVD 244
369EndsteD 410
370Grizzly Bearf6C *11
371Almost the last wordE1 5c 16
372Pocket DynoV7 6b 1
373Capped RibV3 6a 53
374Tidal WaveV0- 1
 VELVET ROOF  
376Velvet Crabf7A+ 55
377Velvet RoofV2 5c 6
378Right-hand RoofV4 5c 12
379Zaff Skoczylasf7C 48
380Zaff Skoczylas (sit start)f7B+ **26
381Zaff Skoczylas Right Hand *f7C 4
 END BOULDERS  
383Little Cube AreteV1 5b 24
384Once Upon A Timef7B+  
385Beyond The Endf3+ 54
386Daddy WallV0- 4c 84
387Daddy Bear AreteV0- 5a 63
388Daddy Arete RightV0+ 5b 51
389Daddy's Arete Right - Right. *V0 4c 6
390Daddy Right AreteV0- 4b 43
391Mommy WallV1 5b 73
392Mommy Bear AreteV0+ 5b 62
393Mommy Bear RightV1 5b 82
394Baby Bear WallV0 5a *62
395Baby Bear AreteV0- 4c 63
 LOCATION UNCERTAIN  
397Pearl Tree Crack HS 4b 1
398Ellis's Very Eliminate *V3 6a 1
399Bilberry Pie *E1 5b 1
400Bubble *V6 **3
401Rocket Boy *f7A *5
402Kirkpatrick's Corner *S 4a 1
403King's Return *E2 5b 5
404Don't get between *VB 13
405Easy Problem 1 *V0- 4b 5
406Easy Problem 2 *V0- 4b 5
407Sally's Smile *VD 4a 2
408Front End Face Right Arete *V0+ 5a *3
409North Roof Eliminate *V5 6a 1
410Side-wall *V0+ 5a 2
411Long Shot *V4 6b 1
412Mr Sheen *f7A+  
413Mr Sheen (sit start) *f7B 1
4147a+ *VB *** 
4157a+ Under Jason's Roof *f7A ***1
416Tiny Roof *V3 5c **2
417Ash Tree Variation *V2 **2
418The end all slab *V3 6a 2
419North roof variant *f6B+ *2
420Seams There's More *f6B 6b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The footholds above the bulge on Long Tall Sally are getting a bit polished
Impact John - 24/May/04