Burbage North

Climbs 387 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 420m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fairly continuous section of small natural buttress (8 - 15m) of good grit. A popular Summer evening soloing and bouldering venue with routes mainly in the lower to middle grades. Classics include Mutiny Crack (VS 4b), The Knight's Move (HVS 5a), Obscenity (VS 4c), Amazon Crack (HS 4a) and Long Tall Sally (E1 5b). Living in Oxford (E7 6c) and Superstition (E8 7a)await repeats. Get to it!

Access notes
Approach from the Upper Burbage Bridge (SK 263829 - car parking) in less than 2 min! A more leisurely approach can be made up the Burbage Valley from just below The Fox House Inn (SK 267803). Both starts accessible by bus from Sheffield.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE CHANT  
2North RoofV3 6a 52
3RT WallV2 5c 91
4RT Wall - Right sideV2 5c 40
5Route 1HS 4b *1007
6Route 1.25VS 5c 151
7Route 1.5VS 5b *610
8Route 2S 4a *1558
9Route 2.5VS 5b *433
10Route 3S 4a *1489
11Route 3.5E1 6a 56
12Route 4HVS 5c *293
13Route 5HVD 4a 466
14First Wall TraverseV2 5c 81
15Cranberry WallVD 665
16Cranberry CrackVD 1414
17The ChantHVS 5a *1081
18The Chant Direct FinishE2 6a 75
19Chant - Direct StartHVS 5b 153
20Chant - Right SideHVS 5c 66
2120 Foot CrackS 4b *1769
22The Twenty Foot TraverseV3 6a 41
23Curse - Left SideVS 5b 65
24The CurseVS 5b *650
25Lost in FranceVS 5c *470
 TRIANGLE BUTTRESS  
27Triangle Buttress GirdleS 4b 42
28Little PlumbD 798
29Base Over ApexVS 4c 284
30BaselessHVD *951
31Triangle Buttress AreteVD *1066
32Triangle Buttress IndirectS 4a *550
33Triangle Buttress DirectHS 5a 677
34Triangle CrackHVD 4a *642
35Leaning WallS 4b 229
36Leaning Wall Really DirectE1 6a 14
37Leaning Wall DirectHS 5a *626
38Little White JugVS 4c *358
39Big Black 'unHVS 5a *222
40SteptoeM *747
41Unnamed #1D 26
42Triangle Buttress Low Level TraverseV3 6a 29
 BANANA FINGER  
44Monkey WallM 704
45Monkey Wall DirectD 32
46Definitive 5.12f6C *59
47Cinzano Rooff7B 6
48Cinzano Roof (RH Start)f6C *6
49Monkey CrackV1 5c 48
50Monkey CornerHVD *733
51Monkey Corner VariantV2 5c 20
52Banana AreteV2 5c 91
53Banana Reversef7A 82
54Banana Finger DirectV5 *273
55Banana FingerV3 **909
56Sloper Pullf6C *21
57Monk OnHVS 5b 109
 OVERHANGING BUTTRESS  
59Ad InfinitumS 4a *227
60Little Brown ThugV5 6b 27
61Wednesday ClimbHVS 5b *341
62Life in a Radioactive DustbinV5 *70
63The Disposable BubbleE4 6b 16
64Overhanging Buttress DirectS 4a *1132
65Overhang Buttress VariationD 95
66Overhanging Buttress AreteM *932
67Burgess FaceVS 4c 162
68Burgess St.D 336
69Burgess ButtressD 579
 ALL QUIET AREA  
71All Quiet on the Eastern FrontV3 *250
72All Quiet DirectV7 42
73All Sit-Downf7B+ 5
74The BuskerVS 4c 389
75Bracken AreteVS 4c 75
76Bracken CrackHVD 4a *571
77Green SlabVS 5a 463
78Fallen Slab LipV6 17
 REMERGENCE BUTTRESS  
80The GroganHVS 5c *214
81GroatE1 6b 7
82Al's AreteE1 5c 4
83Wollock Left HandE1 5b 7
84WollockHVS 4c *289
85Wollock DirectHVS 5c 59
86Wollock problemV2 5c 14
87PulcherrimeVS 4b *804
88Slanting CrackVD 296
89Small is BeautifulV6 *61
90Slanting GullyD 170
91Chockstone ClimbVD 156
92SnatchE3 6a 3
93Stomach TraverseHVS 4c *96
94TiptoeVS 4c *101
95The Hanging RibV4 **312
96Submergencef7C 17
97Blind Drunkf8A 3
98RemergenceE4 6b **39
99Remergence Startf6B 282
100Blind DateE4 7a *15
101Blind Date Startf7B+ 45
102Blind Figf7C 13
103Blind Alif7B+ 12
104Break Traversef7C+  
105One sloper eliminatef7B 8
106Two sloper eliminatef6C 21
107Mutiny CrackHS 4b ***1451
108MeddleHVS 5a *173
109DetourS 4a *281
110DiversionHVS 5a 36
111Dead Tree CrackHS 4b 109
112Tree Stump TraverseV2 6a 48
113Side FaceS 4a 110
114Side Order ChaosVS 5a 21
115And BeakerHVS 5b 9
116Tiny Slab - Left AreteV0+ 5a *219
117Tiny Slab - LeftV1 5b *239
118Tiny Slab - RightV2 6a *155
119Tiny Slab - Right AreteV4 6b 53
120SolitudeV5 6b 18
 ASH TREE BOULDERS  
122Ash Tree Big SlabVB 27
123Gruesome MantelV3 *11
124Jammed Block MantelV2 18
125Easy AreteVB 27
126Undecut Block LeftV0+ 21
127Undercut Block RightV0+ 19
 ASH TREE WALL  
129Ash Tree Little SlabV1 24
130Sunlight CallerHVS 5b 51
131Oak FaceHS 61
132Boggle BoothroydVS 4b 32
133The Last Great ProblemHVS 5c 13
134Striker Left-handf7A+ **11
135Strikerf7C+ 1
136Beach Tea OneHVS 6a *23
137Ivy TreeHVS 5a *165
138Poison IvyE1 6a 15
139All Star's GoalE1 6a 48
140Evening WallE1 5b *203
141Wall ChimneyS 4a *91
142Happily Ever AfterE6 6c *3
143NefertitiE6 6c *11
144Wall CornerHVD 4a *662
145Wall Corner The Direct FinishVS 4c *123
146Ash Tree AreteVS 4c 23
147Ash Tree GirdleS 4a 40
148Ash Tree VariationsVS 5c *529
149Ash Tree WallS 4a **1386
150Ash Tree Wall - Right SideVS 5b 44
151Ash Trees ForeverHVS 5b *192
152Ash Tree CrackVD *1232
153Artificial StimulantE2 5c 172
154Bilberry CrackVD *1009
155Bilberry FaceS 631
156Bilberry AreteM 244
157Twin CracksVD 14
158Rope TrickHS 4c 25
159Who Needs Ropes?M 37
160Head-BangerS 26
161A Phenomenological ProblemHVS 5b 20
162Early Morning PerformanceHVS 5c 14
163With a Little Help from my FriendsE1 5b 2
164NavanaE6 6b *2
165Leaning Block CrackVD 52
166Living in OxfordE7 7a **2
167Sitting in Oxfordf7A+ *6
168PuckV8 7a+ 5
169SuperstitionE8 7b ** 
170The PromiseE8 7a ***2
171Green ChimneyVD *85
 THE TERRACE  
173The Terrace Left-handf7C 1
174The Terracef7C+ 84
175Jason's Rooff7C 5
176Jason's stand-upV6 6b 21
177Hanging arête V7 3
178Hanging WallV5 6b 31
179La Terracef8A  
180Hanging Wall Sitterf7A 61
 THE SPHINX AREA  
182Gizaf7C 18
183The SphinxE5 6c 22
184Voyagerf8B ***3
185Voyager Sit StartV14  
186Sputnikf7B *1
187Cleo's Edgef5+ 273
188Cleo's Right HandV0- 4a 132
189Cleo's SlabVB 40
190Cleo's Other EdgeVB 34
191Sphinx SlabV0 4c 25
192Roof Goofef6B 82
193Roof Goofe RightV4 6b 24
194Jetty ArettyV2 5c 57
195Jetty ButtressVD 81
196Jetty NoseV3 6a 16
197Pocket Passerf6A+ 99
198Jetty BulgeV4 6b 61
199Safe Betf6C 48
200Bedrockf7A *15
201Yabbadabbadoo!f6C 49
202Answer the PhoneVS 5b 20
 THE SENTINEL  
204Chicken BrothHVD 4a 9
205Sharks Fin SoupHVS 4c 6
206The GargoyleE2 5c 6
207Phillipa ButtressVS 4c 18
208Crystal TipsE3 6a 37
209Stepped CrackD 413
210Black Slab AreteS 4a 335
211Black SlabVS 4b *870
212Black Slab VariationD *660
213Green GrooveHVD 3c 86
214Now or NeverE1 5b **370
215Too Good To Be ForgottenE2 6a 6
216Sentinel ChimneyHVD 4a *231
217The SentinelE2 5b ***426
218Sentinel IndirectHVS 5a 20
219Sentinel Crack (Burbage North)D *615
220Present ArmsHS 4c 214
221'ArmlessD 19
222High FlyerE2 5b 66
223The GrazerVS 5a *536
224LiebackHS 4b 782
225Think of EnglandM 133
226RingoS 4a *834
227Ring My BellE4 6a 1
228Damp TrousersE1 5a **3
229Ring PieceHVS 6a 57
230Ring ClimbS 4a *643
231Ring ChimneyD 261
232Agnostic's AreteVS 5a *197
233PickpocketVS 4c 152
234Cleft right of PickpocketD 9
 KNIGHTS MOVE  
236The KefferHVS 5a 219
237With Juicy BitsHVS 5a 11
238Small BeerHS 4a 20
239Still OrangeS 4a *918
240Rise N ShineHVS 5a 22
241Green CrackVD *707
242Dover's ProgressHVS 5a *255
243Hollyash CrackVS 4b **1031
244En PassantE2 6a 3
245Knight's MoveHVS 5a ***2129
246Peter's ProgressVS 4c **143
247Arme BlancheE5 6a *18
248Great CrackVS 5a **426
249The Big ChimneyHS 4b *126
250WindjammerE1 5b *164
251The RainmakerHVS 5b **278
252Big Chimney AreteHS 4b *717
253Barry ManilowVS 4c *159
 BOYAGER  
255Boyagerf7A+ ***55
256Mono Bulge *f7B **4
257Monochromef7B ***37
258Asylum Sikaf7B **9
259Ripple Riser *f6B 4
260Duo bulge *f6B 2
 TWIN CHIMNEYS TO THARF CAKE  
262December ClimbVD 13
263SnowflakesVD 13
264Survivor's SyndromeE2 5b 3
265Twin Chimneys LaybackHVD 4a **243
266Left Twin ChimneyVD 46
267Right Twin ChimneyHVD 43
268The Happy SlapperHVS 5a 29
269Jimmy RiddleVS 4c 21
270Always another oneVS 5b 9
271BulletproofE1 6a 15
272Split Slab CrackS 4a 91
273Split SlabHVD *81
274Slide AwayE1 5a *37
275Grotto SlabM 151
276Grotto Slab VariantS 3c 23
277Grotto CrackVS 4b 28
278SubmissionVS 5a *108
279TemptationHS 4a 4
280Falstaff's ChimneyVD *84
281Falstaff's InnominateS 4b 283
282Falstaff's CrackD 209
283Pale FaceHVS 5a 19
284Horse NationE1 5b  
285Bilberry CakeVS 4c *393
286Bilberry WallVD *459
287Bilberry AreteM 322
288The Edging MachineHVS 5b 72
289Alpha CrackHS 4b 176
290Omega CrackVD 198
291BlinkersVS 4c 7
292Scarred Buttress ClimbVD *249
293ClinkersVS 5a 1
294First CrackS 4b 371
295Tharf CakeHVS 5a *256
296Left Twin CrackS 4a *494
297Right Twin CrackHVD 4a *422
298Farcical AreteHS 4b *283
 BROOKS' LAYBACK  
300The Irrepressible UrgeE1 5b **151
301The Arctic MammalE3 6a **12
302Small Arctic MammalE3 6a *33
303Left Recess CrackS 3c *451
304Right Recess CrackHS 4a 141
305AceVS 4b *206
306The ChimneyD 53
307The CrackHS 4a 75
308Ace Sharp AreteV3 6a 6
309Thrall's ThrutchS 4a *54
310Brooks' LaybackHS 4b **789
311Wobblestone CrackHVD 4a *459
312Biscuits for BreakfastE4 6b 3
313Red ShiftE3 5c 2
 LONG TALL SALLY  
315Hollybush GullyVD 104
316The ScreamerE1 5c *23
317Gazebo WatusiE6 6b *1
318ObscenityVS 4c ***354
319Amazon CrackHS 4b ***1187
320ArtemisHVS 5a 2
321Amazon GullyM 204
322Boney MoroneyE2 5c *92
323RockersE1 5c *7
324Long Tall SallyE1 5b ***1220
325Three Blind MiceE7 6c **32
326Greeny CrackVS 4b **760
327Rhapsody in GreenHVS 5a 51
328Left Studio ClimbVD 295
329The ArtistVS 4c 26
330Right Studio ClimbVD 324
331Rose FlakeVS 4b *267
3326c Arete below Long Tall Sallyf6C 10
333The FinE1 5b *156
334Ai No CorridaE5 6b **44
335Right FinHVS 5a **607
336The twenty year itch *E4 6b 5
337The EnthusiastV3 *46
338Nicotine StainV4 **142
339April FoolHVD 307
340ApproachV2 *64
341Spider CrackVS 5b *513
342The Be AllHVD 4a 299
343Pest ControlV4 6b 6
344The End AllHS 4b 119
 END SLAB  
346Shelf WallV2 5c 38
347Unnamed #3HS 4b 10
348End ButtressD 317
349The PenultimateE1 5b *249
350Right Arete V6 2
351End SlabD *575
352False End SlabD 38
353End Slab RampD 55
354Two Pocket SitterV2 6a *176
355Plank Sanction *V8 ** 
356Front End FaceD 32
357Back End SlabD 361
358EnderD *541
359Crack Habit *f5 *15
360Endest AreteVD 236
361EndsteD 398
362Grizzly Bearf6C *9
363Almost the last wordHVS 5c 15
364Capped RibV3 6a 51
 VELVET ROOF  
366Velvet Crabf7A+ 53
367Velvet RoofV2 5c 6
368Right-hand RoofV4 5c 12
369Zaff Skoczylasf7C 42
370Zaff Skoczylas (sit start)f7B+ **21
371Zaff Skoczylas Right Hand *f7C 4
 END BOULDERS  
373Little Cube AreteV1 5b 23
374Once Upon A Timef7B+  
375Beyond The Endf3+ 52
376Daddy WallV0- 4c 79
377Daddy Bear AreteV0- 5a 60
378Daddy Arete RightV0+ 5b 48
379Daddy Right AreteV0- 4b 38
380Mommy WallV1 5b 69
381Mommy Bear AreteV0+ 5b 58
382Mommy Bear RightV1 5b 79
383Baby Bear WallV0 5a *58
384Baby Bear AreteV0- 4c 59
 LOCATION UNCERTAIN  
386Pearl Tree Crack HS 4b 1
387Ellis's Very Eliminate *V3 6a 1
388Bilberry Pie *E1 5b 1
389Bubble *V6 **3
390Rocket Boy *f7A *5
391Monkey Wall Slot *VS 4c 1
392Kirkpatrick's Corner *S 4a 1
393King's Return *E2 5b 5
394Don't get between *VB 13
395Banana Right-hand *V2 5c 4
396Easy Problem 1 *V0- 4b 5
397Easy Problem 2 *V0- 4b 5
398Sally's Smile *VD 4a 2
399Late Night Antics *HVS 5c 2
400Front End Face Right Arete *V0+ 5a *2
401Daddy's Arete Right - Right. *V0 4c 4
402North Roof Eliminate *V5 6a 1
403Side-wall *V0+ 5a 1
404Long Shot *V4 6b 1
405Pocket Dyno *V7 6b 1
406Tidal Wave *V0- 1
407Triangle Traverse *V3 **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The footholds above the bulge on Long Tall Sally are getting a bit polished
Impact John - 24/May/04