Burbage North

Climbs 396 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 420m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fairly continuous section of small natural buttress (8 - 15m) of good grit. A popular Summer evening soloing and bouldering venue with routes mainly in the lower to middle grades. Classics include Mutiny Crack (VS 4b), The Knight's Move (HVS 5a), Obscenity (VS 4c), Amazon Crack (HS 4a) and Long Tall Sally (E1 5b). Living in Oxford (E7 6c) and Superstition (E8 7a)await repeats. Get to it!

Access notes
Approach from the Upper Burbage Bridge (SK 263829 - car parking) in less than 2 min! A more leisurely approach can be made up the Burbage Valley from just below The Fox House Inn (SK 267803). Both starts accessible by bus from Sheffield.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE CHANT  
2North RoofV3 6a 54
3RT Wallf5+ 93
4RT Wall - Right sideV2 5c 42
5Route 1HS 4b *1029
6Route 1.25f5+ 154
7Route 1.5f5 *627
8Route 2S 4a *1601
9Route 2.5f5 *446
10Route 3S 4a *1528
11Route 3.5f6A 58
12Route 4f5+ *294
13Route 5HVD 4a 476
14First Wall TraverseV2 5c 83
15Cranberry WallVD 681
16Cranberry CrackVD 1444
17The ChantHVS 5a *1097
18The Chant Direct FinishE2 6a 78
19Chant - Direct StartHVS 5b 155
20Chant - Right SideHVS 5c 68
2120 Foot CrackS 4b *1801
22The Twenty Foot TraverseV3 6a 41
23Curse - Left SideVS 5b 69
24The Cursef5 *660
25Lost in Francef5+ *478
 TRIANGLE BUTTRESS  
27Triangle Buttress GirdleS 4b 42
28Little PlumbD 812
29Base Over ApexVS 4c 289
30BaselessHVD *966
31Triangle Buttress AreteVD *1094
32Triangle Buttress DirectS 4a *575
33Triangle Buttress Direct Startf5 682
34Triangle CrackHVD 4a *657
35Leaning WallS 4b 233
36Leaning Wall Really DirectE1 6a 15
37Leaning Wall DirectHS 5a *639
38Little White JugVS 4c *366
39Big Black 'unHVS 5a *224
40SteptoeM *760
41... and SonD 27
42Triangle Buttress Low Level TraverseV3 6a 31
 BANANA FINGER  
44Monkey WallM 712
45Monkey Wall DirectD 33
46Monkey Wall Slot *VS 4c 1
47Definitive 5.12f6C *60
48Cinzano Rooff7B 7
49Cinzano Roof (RH Start)f6C *6
50Monkey CrackV1 5c 49
51Monkey CornerHVD *747
52Monkey Corner VariantV2 5c 21
53Banana AreteV2 5c 94
54Banana Reversef7A 84
55Banana Finger Directf6C *279
56Banana Fingerf6A **930
57Banana Right-handV2 5c 7
58Sloper Pullf6C *22
59Monk OnHVS 5b 112
 OVERHANGING BUTTRESS  
61Ad InfinitumS 4a *229
62Little Brown ThugV5 6b 28
63Wednesday ClimbHVS 5b *346
64Life in a Radioactive Dustbinf6C *71
65The Disposable BubbleE4 6b 17
66Overhanging Buttress DirectS 4a *1156
67Overhang Buttress VariationVD 4a 96
68Overhanging Buttress AreteM *949
69Burgess FaceHS 4c 167
70Burgess ButtressD 587
71Burgess StreetD 343
72Union StreetS 4a 2
 ALL QUIET AREA  
74All Quiet on the Eastern Frontf6A+ *253
75All Quiet Directf7A+ 44
76All Sit-Downf7B+ 5
77The BuskerVS 4c 399
78Bracken AreteVS 4c 76
79Bracken CrackHVD 4a *584
80Green SlabVS 5a 476
81Fallen Slab LipV6 19
 REMERGENCE BUTTRESS  
83The GroganHVS 5c *224
84GroatE1 6b 7
85Al's AreteE1 5c 4
86Wollock Left HandE1 5b 7
87WollockHVS 4c *295
88Wollock DirectHVS 5c 63
89Wollock problemV2 5c 15
90PulcherrimeVS 4b *827
91Slanting CrackVD 306
92Small is Beautifulf7A *66
93Slanting GullyD 173
94Chockstone ClimbVD *160
95SnatchE3 6a 3
96Stomach TraverseHVS 4c *99
97TiptoeVS 4c *102
98GymnipodiesE4 6b  
99The Hanging Ribf6B **318
100Submergencef7C 18
101Blind Drunkf8A 3
102RemergenceE4 6b **40
103Remergence Startf6B 291
104Blind DateE4 7a *15
105Blind Date Startf7B+ 48
106Blind Figf7C 15
107Blind Alif7B+ 12
108Break Traversef7C+  
109One sloper eliminatef7B 9
110Two sloper eliminatef6C 22
111Mutiny CrackHS 4b ***1479
112MeddleHVS 5a *175
113DetourS 4a *291
114DiversionHVS 5a 36
115Dead Tree CrackHS 4b *113
116Tree Stump TraverseV2 6a 50
117Side FaceS 4a 113
118Side Order ChaosVS 5a 23
119And BeakerHVS 5b 10
120Tiny Slab - Left AreteV0+ 5a *225
121Tiny Slab - LeftV1 5b *247
122Tiny Slab - RightV2 6a *161
123Tiny Slab - Right AreteV4 6b 55
124SolitudeV5 6b 21
 ASH TREE BOULDERS  
126Ash Tree Big SlabVB 27
127Gruesome MantelV3 *11
128Jammed Block MantelV2 18
129Easy AreteVB 27
130Undecut Block LeftV0+ 21
131Undercut Block RightV0+ 19
 ASH TREE WALL  
133Ash Tree Little SlabV1 25
134Sunlight CallerVS 5b 54
135Oak FaceHS 4b 64
136Boggle BoothroydVS 4c 36
137The Last Great ProblemHVS 5c 13
138Striker Left-handf7A+ **14
139Strikerf7C+ 1
140Beach Tea OneHVS 6a *24
141Ivy TreeHVS 5b *167
142Poison IvyE1 6a 15
143All Star's GoalE1 6a 48
144Evening WallE1 5b *205
145Wall ChimneyS 4a *95
146Happily Ever AfterE6 6c *3
147NefertitiE6 6c *12
148Wall CornerHVD 4a *671
149Wall Corner The Direct FinishVS 4c *127
150Ash Tree AreteVS 4c 23
151Ash Tree GirdleS 4a 40
152Ash Tree VariationsVS 5c *536
153Ash Tree WallS 4a **1409
154Ash Tree Wall EliminateVS 5b 44
155Ash Trees ForeverHVS 5b *197
156Ash Tree CrackVD *1255
157Artificial StimulantE2 5b *176
158Bilberry CrackVD *1034
159Bilberry FaceS 4a 643
160Bilberry AreteS 4a *247
161Calvin KlimbE4 6b  
162Twin CracksVD 16
163Rope TrickHS 4c 26
164Who Needs Ropes?M 41
165Head-BangerS 27
166A Phenomenological ProblemHVS 5b 20
167Late Night Antics *HVS 5c 2
168Early Morning PerformanceHVS 5c 14
169With a Little Help from my FriendsE1 5b 2
170NavanaE6 6b *2
171Leaning Block CrackVD 53
172Living in OxfordE7 7a **2
173Sitting in Oxfordf7A+ *6
174Puckf7B *5
175Superstitionf8A ** 
176The Promisef7C ***2
177Green ChimneyVD *85
 THE TERRACE  
179The Terrace Left-handf7C 1
180The Terracef7C+ 93
181Jason's Rooff7C 5
182Jason's stand-upV6 6b 24
183Hanging arête V7 3
184Hanging WallV5 6b 32
185La Terracef8A  
186Hanging Wall Sitterf7A 63
 THE SPHINX AREA  
188Gizaf7C 19
189The SphinxE5 6c 22
190Voyagerf8B ***3
191Voyager Sit StartV14  
192Sputnikf7B *1
193Cleo's Edgef5+ 276
194Cleo's Right HandV0- 4a 133
195Cleo's SlabVB 41
196Cleo's Other EdgeVB 35
197Sphinx SlabV0 4c 25
198Roof Goofef6B 82
199Roof Goofe RightV4 6b 24
200Jetty ArettyV2 5c 62
201Jetty ButtressHVD 4b **83
202Jetty NoseV3 6a 19
203Pocket Passerf6A+ 101
204Jetty BulgeV4 6b 61
205Safe Betf6C 49
206Bedrockf7A *17
207Yabbadabbadoo!f6C 49
208Answer the PhoneVS 5b 21
 THE SENTINEL  
210Chicken BrothHVD 4a 9
211Sharks Fin SoupHVS 4c 6
212The GargoyleE2 5c 6
213Phillipa ButtressVS 4c 19
214Crystal TipsE3 6a 39
215Stepped CrackD 420
216Black Slab AreteS 4a 341
217Black SlabVS 4b *887
218Black Slab VariationD *673
219Green GrooveHVD 3c 89
220Now or NeverE1 5b **379
221Too Good To Be ForgottenE2 6a 6
222Sentinel ChimneyHVD 4a *234
223The SentinelE2 5b ***437
224Sentinel IndirectHVS 5a 20
225Sentinel Crack (Burbage North)D *635
226Present ArmsHS 4c 219
227'ArmlessD 20
228High FlyerE2 5b *69
229The GrazerVS 5a *544
230LiebackHS 4b *796
231Think of EnglandM 139
232RingoS 4a *852
233Ring My BellE4 6a 1
234Damp TrousersE1 5a **3
235Ring PieceHVS 6a 59
236Ring ClimbS 4a *652
237Ring ChimneyD 268
238Agnostic's AreteVS 5a *202
239PickpocketVS 4c *154
240Cleft right of PickpocketD 9
 KNIGHTS MOVE  
242Seventy NinerVS 4c 5
243The KefferHVS 5a *224
244With Juicy BitsHVS 5a 11
245Small BeerHS 4a 20
246Still OrangeS 4a *941
247Rise N ShineHVS 5a 22
248Green CrackVD *722
249Dover's ProgressHVS 5a *255
250Hollyash CrackVS 4b **1052
251En PassantE2 6a 3
252Knight's MoveHVS 5a ***2158
253Peter's ProgressVS 4c **146
254Arme BlancheE5 6a *18
255Great CrackVS 5a **434
256The Big ChimneyHS 4b *128
257WindjammerE1 5b *165
258The RainmakerHVS 5b **280
259Big Chimney AreteHS 4b *738
260Barry ManilowVS 4c *163
 BOYAGER  
262Boyagerf7A+ ***59
263Mono Bulgef7B **4
264Monochromef7B ***44
265Asylum Sikaf7B **12
266Ripple Riserf6B 7
267Duo bulge *f6B 2
 TWIN CHIMNEYS TO THARF CAKE  
269December ClimbVD 13
270SnowflakesVD 13
271Survivor's SyndromeE2 5b 3
272Twin Chimneys LaybackHVD 4a **251
273Left Twin ChimneyVD 48
274Right Twin ChimneyHVD 45
275The Happy SlapperHVS 5a 29
276Jimmy RiddleVS 4c 23
277Always another oneVS 5b 9
278BulletproofE1 6a 15
279Split Slab CrackS 4a 95
280Split SlabHVD 4b *85
281Slide AwayE1 5a *39
282Grotto SlabM 155
283Grotto Slab VariantS 3c 23
284Grotto CrackVS 4b 29
285SubmissionVS 5a *112
286TemptationHS 4a 4
287Falstaff's ChimneyVD *87
288Falstaff's InnominateS 4b *289
289Falstaff's CrackD 216
290Pale FaceHVS 5a 19
291Horse NationE1 5b  
292Bilberry CakeVS 4c *407
293Bilberry WallVD *469
294Bilberry AreteM 332
295The Edging MachineHVS 5b 75
296Alpha CrackHS 4b 181
297Omega CrackVD 203
298BlinkersVS 4c 9
299Scarred Buttress ClimbVD *256
300ClinkersVS 5a 2
301First CrackS 4b 379
302Tharf CakeHVS 5a *260
303Left Twin CrackS 4a *501
304Right Twin CrackHVD 4a *427
305Farcical AreteHS 4b *290
 BROOKS' LAYBACK  
307The Irrepressible UrgeE1 5b **151
308The Arctic MammalE3 6a *12
309Small Arctic MammalE1 6a 33
310Left Recess CrackS 3c *457
311Right Recess CrackHS 4a 142
312AceVS 4b *213
313The ChimneyD 55
314The CrackHS 4a 77
315Ace Sharp AreteV3 6a 6
316Thrall's ThrutchS 4a *55
317Brooks' LaybackHS 4b **805
318Wobblestone CrackHVD 4a *462
319Biscuits for BreakfastE4 6b 3
320Red ShiftE3 5c 2
 LONG TALL SALLY  
322Hollybush GullyVD 106
323The ScreamerE1 5c *23
324Gazebo WatusiE6 6b *1
325ObscenityVS 4c ***363
326Amazon CrackHS 4b ***1206
327ArtemisHVS 5a 2
328Amazon GullyM 208
329Boney MoroneyE2 5c *93
330RockersE1 5c *7
331Long Tall SallyE1 5b ***1241
332Three Blind MiceE7 6c **32
333Greeny CrackVS 4b **772
334Rhapsody in GreenHVS 5a 51
335Left Studio ClimbVD 299
336The ArtistVS 5a 26
337Right Studio ClimbVD 333
338Rose FlakeVS 4b *273
3396c Arete below Long Tall Sallyf6C 10
340The FinE1 5b *157
341Ai No CorridaE5 6b **44
342Right FinHVS 5a **617
343Twenty Year ItchE4 6b 5
344The Enthusiastf6A+ *47
345Nicotine Stainf6B **149
346Nicaretef5 *3
347April FoolHVD 314
348Approachf5+ *64
349Spider CrackVS 5b *523
350The Be AllHVD 4a 303
351Pest ControlV4 6b 6
352The End AllHS 4b 121
 END SLAB  
354Shelf Wallf5+ 38
355Unnamed #3HS 4b 11
356End ButtressD 324
357The PenultimateE1 5b *257
358Right Arete V6 2
359End SlabD *587
360False End SlabD 40
361End Slab RampD 57
362Two Pocket Sitterf5+ *181
363Plank Sanction *V8 **2
364Front End SlabVD 33
365Back End SlabD 370
366EnderD *550
367Crack Habit *f5 *17
368Endest AreteVD 242
369EndsteD 404
370Grizzly Bearf6C *11
371Almost the last wordE1 5c 15
372Pocket DynoV7 6b 1
373Capped RibV3 6a 53
374Tidal WaveV0- 1
 VELVET ROOF  
376Velvet Crabf7A+ 55
377Velvet RoofV2 5c 6
378Right-hand RoofV4 5c 12
379Zaff Skoczylasf7C 46
380Zaff Skoczylas (sit start)f7B+ **25
381Zaff Skoczylas Right Hand *f7C 4
 END BOULDERS  
383Little Cube AreteV1 5b 24
384Once Upon A Timef7B+  
385Beyond The Endf3+ 54
386Daddy WallV0- 4c 83
387Daddy Bear AreteV0- 5a 62
388Daddy Arete RightV0+ 5b 51
389Daddy's Arete Right - Right. *V0 4c 5
390Daddy Right AreteV0- 4b 42
391Mommy WallV1 5b 72
392Mommy Bear AreteV0+ 5b 61
393Mommy Bear RightV1 5b 81
394Baby Bear WallV0 5a *61
395Baby Bear AreteV0- 4c 62
 LOCATION UNCERTAIN  
397Pearl Tree Crack HS 4b 1
398Ellis's Very Eliminate *V3 6a 1
399Bilberry Pie *E1 5b 1
400Bubble *V6 **3
401Rocket Boy *f7A *5
402Kirkpatrick's Corner *S 4a 1
403King's Return *E2 5b 5
404Don't get between *VB 13
405Easy Problem 1 *V0- 4b 5
406Easy Problem 2 *V0- 4b 5
407Sally's Smile *VD 4a 2
408Front End Face Right Arete *V0+ 5a *3
409North Roof Eliminate *V5 6a 1
410Side-wall *V0+ 5a 2
411Long Shot *V4 6b 1
412Mr Sheen *f7A+  
413Mr Sheen (sit start) *f7B 1
4147a+ *VB *** 
4157a+ Under Jason's Roof *f7A ***1
416Tiny Roof *V3 5c **2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The footholds above the bulge on Long Tall Sally are getting a bit polished
Impact John - 24/May/04