Burbage North

Climbs 381 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 420m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fairly continuous section of small natural buttress (8 - 15m) of good grit. A popular Summer evening soloing and bouldering venue with routes mainly in the lower to middle grades. Classics include Mutiny Crack (VS 4b), The Knight's Move (HVS 5a), Obscenity (VS 4c), Amazon Crack (HS 4a) and Long Tall Sally (E1 5b). Living in Oxford (E7 6c) and Superstition (E8 7a)await repeats. Get to it!

Access notes
Approach from the Upper Burbage Bridge (SK 263829 - car parking) in less than 2 min! A more leisurely approach can be made up the Burbage Valley from just below The Fox House Inn (SK 267803). Both starts accessible by bus from Sheffield.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 20 FOOT WALLS 
2North RoofV3 6a
3RT WallV2 5c
4RT Wall - Right sideV2 5c
5Route 1S 4b
6Route 1.25VS 5c
7Route 1.5VS 5b
8Route 2S 4a
9Route 2.5VS 5a
10Route 3HVD 4a *
11Route 3.5E1 6a
12Route 4HVS 5c
13Route 5S 4b
14First Wall TraverseV2 5c
15Cranberry WallVD
16Cranberry CrackVD
17The ChantHVS 5a *
18The Chant Direct FinishE2 6a
19Chant - Direct StartHVS 5c
20Chant - Right SideHVS 5c
2120 Foot CrackS 4b *
22The Twenty Foot TraverseV3 6a
23Curse - Left SideVS 5b
24The CurseVS 5b *
25Lost in FranceVS 5c
26Triangle Buttress GirdleS 4b
27Little PlumbD
28Base Over ApexVS 4c
29BaselessHVD *
30Triangle Buttress AreteVD *
31Triangle Buttress IndirectS 4a *
32Triangle Buttress DirectHS 5a
33Triangle CrackHVD
34Leaning WallS 4a
35Leaning Wall Really DirectE1 6a
36Leaning Wall DirectVS 5a *
37Little White JugVS 5a *
38Big Black 'unHVS 5a
39SteptoeM
40Unnamed #1D
41Triangle Buttress Low Level TraverseV3 6a
 BANANA FINGER AREA 
43Monkey WallM
44Monkey Wall DirectD
45Definitive 5.12f6C *
46Cinzano Rooff7B
47Cinzano Roof (RH Start)f6C *
48Monkey CrackV1 5c
49Monkey CornerVD *
50Monkey Corner VariantV2 5c
51Banana AreteV2 5c
52Banana Reversef7A
53Banana Finger Directf6C **
54Banana Fingerf6A **
55Sloper Pullf6C *
56Monk OnHVS 5b
57Ad InfinitumS 4a *
58Little Brown ThugV5 6b
59Wednesday ClimbHVS 5b *
60Life in a Radioactive DustbinV5 6b
61The Disposable BubbleE4 6b
62Overhanging Buttress DirectS 4a **
63Overhang Buttress VariationD
64Overhanging Buttress AreteM *
65Burgess FaceVS 4c
66Burgess St.D
67Burgess ButtressM
 REMERGENCE AREA 
69All Quiet on the Eastern Frontf6A+ *
70All Quiet Directf7A+ *
71All Sit-Downf7B+
72The BuskerVS 4c
73Bracken AreteVS 4c
74Bracken CrackS 4a
75Green SlabVS 4c
76Fallen Slab LipV6
77The GroganHVS 5c *
78GroatE1 6b *
79Al's AreteE1 5c
80Wollock Left HandE1 5b
81WollockHVS 4c *
82Wollock DirectHVS 5c
83Wollock problemV2 5c
84PulcherrimeVS 4b *
85Slanting CrackVD *
86Small is BeautifulE4 6c *
87Slanting GullyM
88Chockstone ClimbM
89SnatchE3 6a
90Stomach TraverseVS 4c *
91TiptoeVS 4c *
92The Hanging RibV4 6b **
93Submergencef7C
94Blind Drunkf8A
95RemergenceE4 6b **
96Remergence Startf6B
97Blind DateE4 7a *
98Blind Date Startf7B+
99Blind Figf7C
100Blind Alif7B+
101Break Traversef7C+
102One sloper eliminatef7B
103Two sloper eliminatef6C
104Mutiny CrackHS 4b ***
105MeddleHVS 5a
106DetourHVD
107DiversionHVS 5a
108Dead Tree CrackS
109Tree Stump TraverseV2 6a
110Side FaceHVD
111Side Order ChaosVS 5a
112And BeakerHVS 5b
113Tiny Slab - Left AreteV0+ 5a *
114Tiny Slab - LeftV1 5b *
115Tiny Slab - RightV2 6a *
116Tiny Slab - Right AreteV4 6b
117SolitudeV5 6b
 ASH TREE BOULDERS 
119Ash Tree Big SlabVB
120Gruesome MantelV3 *
121Jammed Block MantelV2
122Easy AreteVB
123Undecut Block LeftV0+
124Undercut Block RightV0+
 ASH TREE WALL 
126Ash Tree Little SlabV1
127Sunlight CallerHVS 5b
128Oak FaceHS
129Boggle BoothroydVS 4b
130The Last Great ProblemHVS 5c
131Striker Left-handf7A+ **
132Strikerf7C+
133Beach Tea OneHVS 6a
134Ivy TreeHVS 5b *
135Poison IvyE1 6a
136All Star's GoalE1 6a *
137Evening WallE1 5b *
138Wall ChimneyS 4a
139Happily Ever AfterE6 6c *
140NefertitiE6 6c *
141Wall CornerHVD 4a
142Wall Corner The Direct FinishVS 4c *
143Ash Tree AreteVS 4c
144Ash Tree GirdleS 4a
145Ash Tree VariationsVS 5b *
146Ash Tree WallHVD **
147Ash Tree Wall - Right SideVS 5b
148Ash Trees ForeverHVS 5b
149Ash Tree CrackVD *
150Artificial StimulantE2 5c
151Bilberry Crack (Burbage North)VD *
152Bilberry FaceVD
153Bilberry Arete (Learning the Ropes)M
154Twin CracksVD
155Rope TrickHS 4c
156Who Needs Ropes?M
157Head-BangerS
158A Phenomenological ProblemHVS 5b
159Early Morning PerformanceHVS 5c
160With a Little Help from my FriendsE1 5b
161NavanaE6 6b *
162Leaning Block CrackVD
163Living in OxfordE7 6c **
164Sitting in Oxfordf7A+ *
165PuckV8 7a+
166SuperstitionE8 7b
167The PromiseE8 7a ***
168Green ChimneyVD
169The Terracef7C+
170Jason's Rooff7C
171Jason's stand-upV6 6b
172Hanging arête V7
173Hanging WallV5 6b
174La Terracef8A
175Hanging Wall Sitterf7A
 SPHINX BOULDERS 
177Gizaf7C
178The SphinxE5 6c
179Voyagerf8B ***
180Voyager Sit StartV14
181Sputnikf7B *
182Cleo's Edgef5+
183Cleo's Right HandV0- 4a
184Cleo's SlabVB
185Cleo's Other EdgeVB
186Sphinx SlabV0 4c
187Roof Goofef6B
188Roof Goofe RightV4 6b
189Jetty ArettyV2 5c
190Jetty ButtressVD
191Jetty NoseV3 6a
192Pocket Passerf6A+
193Jetty BulgeV4 6b
194Safe Betf6C
195Bedrockf7A *
196Yabbadabbadoo!f6C
197Answer the PhoneVS 5b
 SENTINEL AREA 
199Chicken BrothHVD 4a
200Sharks Fin SoupHVS 4c
201The GargoyleE2 5c
202Phillipa ButtressVS 4c
203Crystal TipsE3 6a
204Stepped CrackM
205Black Slab AreteS 4a
206Black SlabVS 4b *
207Black Slab VariationD
208Green GrooveHVD 3c
209Now or NeverE1 5b *
210Too Good To Be ForgottenE2 6a
211Sentinel ChimneyVD *
212The SentinelE2 5c **
213Sentinel IndirectHVS 5a
214Sentinel Crack (Burbage North)D
215Present ArmsHS 4c
216'ArmlessD
217High FlyerE3 5b *
218The GrazerVS 4c *
219LiebackHS 4b *
220Think of EnglandM
221RingoS 4a *
222Ring My BellE4 6a
223Damp TrousersE1 5a **
224Ring PieceHVS 6a
225Ring ClimbS 4a
226Ring ChimneyD
227Agnostic's AreteVS 5a *
228PickpocketVS 4c
229Cleft right of PickpocketD
 KNIGHTS MOVE AREA 
231The KefferHVS 5a
232With Juicy BitsHVS 5a
233Small BeerHS 4a
234Still OrangeS 4a *
235Rise N ShineHVS 5a
236Green CrackVD *
237Dover's ProgressHVS 5a
238Hollyash CrackVS 4b **
239En PassantE2 6a
240Knight's MoveHVS 5a ***
241Peter's ProgressVS 4c **
242Arme BlancheE5 6a
243Great CrackVS 5a *
244The Big ChimneyHVD
245WindjammerE1 5b
246The RainmakerHVS 5a *
247Big Chimney AreteHS 4b *
248Barry ManilowVS 5a
 MONOCHROME 
250Boyagerf7A+ ***
251Mono Bulge *f7B **
252Monochromef7B ***
253Asylum Sikaf7B **
254Ripple Riser *f6B
255Duo bulge *f6B
 HAPPY SLAPPER AREA 
257December ClimbVD
258SnowflakesVD
259Survivor's SyndromeE2 5b
260Twin Chimneys LaybackHVD
261Left Twin ChimneyVD
262Right Twin ChimneyVD
263The Happy SlapperHVS 5a
264Jimmy RiddleVS 4c
265Always another oneVS 5b
266BulletproofE1 6a
267Split Slab CrackS 4a
268Split SlabVD
269Slide AwayE1 5a
270Grotto SlabM *
271Grotto Slab VariantS 3c
272Grotto CrackVS 4b
273SubmissionHVS 5a
274TemptationHS 4a
275Falstaff's ChimneyHD
276Falstaff's InnominateS 4b *
277Falstaff's CrackM
278Pale FaceHVS 5a
279Horse NationE1 5b
280Bilberry CakeHVS 5a
281Bilberry WallHD
282Bilberry AreteS 4b
283The Edging MachineVS 5a
284Alpha CrackVS 4c
285Omega CrackVD
286BlinkersVS 4c
287Scarred Buttress ClimbHD
288ClinkersVS 5a
289First CrackS 4a *
290Tharf CakeHVS 5a *
291Left Twin CrackS 4a *
292Right Twin CrackHVD 4a *
293Farcical AreteHS 4a *
 OBSCENITY AREA 
295The Irrepressible UrgeE1 5b *
296The Arctic MammalE3 6a **
297Small Arctic MammalE1 6a
298Left Recess CrackS 3c
299Right Recess CrackHS 4a
300AceVS 4b
301The ChimneyD
302The CrackHS 4a
303Ace Sharp AreteV3 6a
304Thrall's ThrutchS 4a
305Brooks' LaybackHS 4b **
306Wobblestone CrackHVD 4a **
307Biscuits for BreakfastE4 6b
308Red ShiftE3 5c
309Hollybush Gully (Burabge North)VD *
310The ScreamerE1 5c *
311Gazebo WatusiE6 6b *
312ObscenityVS 4c ***
313Amazon Crack (Burbage)VS 4b ***
314ArtemisHVS 5a
315Amazon GullyM *
316Boney MoroneyE1 5c *
317RockersE1 5c *
318Long Tall SallyE1 5b ***
319Three Blind MiceE7 6c **
320Greeny CrackVS 4b **
321Rhapsody in GreenVS 5a *
322Left Studio ClimbVD
323The ArtistVS 4c
324Right Studio ClimbVD
325Rose FlakeVS 4b *
3266c Arete below Long Tall Sallyf6C
 FIN 
328The FinE1 5b *
329Ai No CorridaE5 6b *
330Right FinHVS 5a **
331The twenty year itch *E4 6b
332The EnthusiastHVS 6a
333Nicotine StainE1 6b *
334April FoolVD
335ApproachHVS 5c
336Spider CrackVS 5b *
337The Be AllS 4a
338Pest ControlV4 6b
339The End AllHS 4b
340Shelf WallV2 5c
341Unnamed #3HS 4b
342End ButtressM
343The PenultimateE1 5b *
344Right Arete V6
345End SlabM
346False End SlabD
347End Slab RampD
348Two Pocket SitterV3 6a
349Plank Sanction *V8 **
350Front End FaceD
351Back End SlabD
352EnderD
353Crack Habit *f5 *
354Endest AreteVD
355EndsteD
356Grizzly Bearf6C *
357Almost the last wordHVS 5c
358Capped RibV3 6a
 VELVET ROOF 
360Velvet Crabf7A+
361Velvet RoofV2 5c
362Right-hand RoofV4 5c
363Zaff Skoczylasf7C
364Zaff Skoczylas (sit start)f7B+ **
365Zaff Skoczylas Right Hand *f7C
 END BOULDERS 
367Little Cube AreteV1 5b
368Once Upon A Timef7B+
369Beyond The Endf3+
370Daddy WallV0- 4c
371Daddy Bear AreteV0- 5a
372Daddy Arete RightV0+ 5b
373Daddy Right AreteV0- 4b
374Mommy WallV1 5b
375Mommy Bear AreteV0+ 5b
376Mommy Bear RightV1 5b
377Baby Bear WallV0 5a *
378Baby Bear AreteV0- 4c
 LOCATION UNCERTAIN 
380Pearl Tree Crack HS 4b
381Ellis's Very Eliminate *V3 6a
382Bilberry Pie *E1 5b
383Bubble *V6 **
384Rocket Boy *f7A *
385Monkey Wall Slot *VS 4c
386Kirkpatrick's Corner *S 4a
387King's Return *E2 5b
388The Terrace Left Hand *f7C
389Don't get between *VB
390Banana Right-hand *V2 5c
391Easy Problem 1 *V0- 4b
392Easy Problem 2 *V0- 4b
393Sally's Smile *VD 4a
394Late Night Antics *HVS 5c
395Front End Face Right Arete *V0+ 5a *
396Daddy's Arete Right - Right. *V0 4c
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The footholds above the bulge on Long Tall Sally are getting a bit polished
Impact John - 24/May/04