Burbage North

Climbs 405 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 420m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features

A fairly continuous section of small natural buttress (8 - 15m) of good grit. A popular Summer evening soloing and bouldering venue with routes mainly in the lower to middle grades. Classics include Mutiny Crack (VS 4b), The Knight's Move (HVS 5a), Obscenity (VS 4c), Amazon Crack (HS 4a) and Long Tall Sally (E1 5b). Living in Oxford (E7 6c) and Superstition (E8 7a)await repeats. Get to it!

Access notes

Approach from the Upper Burbage Bridge (SK 263829 - car parking) in less than 2 min! A more leisurely approach can be made up the Burbage Valley from just below The Fox House Inn (SK 267803). Both starts accessible by bus from Sheffield.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE CHANT  
2North RoofV3 6a 59
3RT Wallf5+ 95
4RT Wall - Right sideV2 5c 42
5Route 1HS 4b *1064
6Route 1.25f5+ 159
7Route 1.5f5 *648
8Route 2S 4a *1651
9Route 2.5f5 *460
10Route 3S 4a *1575
11Route 3.5f6A 61
12Route 4f5+ *301
13Route 5HVD 4a 487
14First Wall TraverseV2 5c 85
15Cranberry WallVD 712
16Cranberry CrackVD 1487
17The ChantHVS 5a *1126
18The Chant Direct FinishE2 6a 83
19Chant - Direct StartHVS 5b 160
20Chant - Right SideHVS 5c 68
2120 Foot CrackS 4b *1853
22The Twenty Foot TraverseV3 6a 41
23Curse - Left SideVS 5b 70
24The Cursef5 *674
25Lost in Francef5+ *489
 TRIANGLE BUTTRESS  
27Triangle Buttress GirdleS 4b 43
28Little PlumbD 846
29Base Over ApexVS 4c 306
30BaselessHVD *1013
31Triangle Buttress AreteVD *1134
32Triangle Buttress DirectS 4a *614
33Triangle Buttress Direct Startf5 686
34Triangle CrackHVD 4a *693
35Leaning WallS 4b 240
36Leaning Wall Really DirectE1 6a 18
37Leaning Wall DirectHS 5a *673
38Little White JugVS 4c *396
39Big Black 'unHVS 5a *238
40SteptoeM *800
41... and SonD 32
42Triangle Buttress Low Level TraverseV3 6a 32
 BANANA FINGER  
44Monkey WallM 732
45Monkey Wall DirectD 35
46Monkey Wall Slot *VS 4c 1
47Definitive 5.12f6C *63
48Cinzano Rooff7B 7
49Cinzano Roof (RH Start)f6C *6
50Monkey CrackV1 5c 51
51Monkey CornerHVD *774
52Monkey Corner VariantV2 5c 22
53Banana AreteV2 5c 95
54Banana Reversef7A 84
55Banana Finger Directf6C *283
56Banana Fingerf6A **966
57Banana Right-handV2 5c 10
58Sloper Pullf6C *22
59Monk OnHVS 5b 112
 OVERHANGING BUTTRESS  
61Ad InfinitumS 4a *234
62Little Brown ThugV5 6b 29
63Wednesday ClimbHVS 5b *354
64Life in a Radioactive Dustbinf6C *73
65The Disposable BubbleE4 6b 17
66Overhanging Buttress DirectS 4a *1195
67Overhang Buttress VariationVD 4a 99
68Overhanging Buttress AreteM *975
69Burgess FaceHS 4c 173
70Burgess ButtressD 603
71Burgess StreetD 354
72Union StreetS 4a 5
 ALL QUIET AREA  
74All Quiet on the Eastern Frontf6A+ *260
75All Quiet Directf7A+ 47
76All Sit-Downf7B+ 5
77The BuskerVS 4c 417
78Bracken AreteVS 4c 79
79Bracken CrackHVD 4a *608
80Green SlabVS 5a 497
81Fallen Slab LipV6 21
 REMERGENCE BUTTRESS  
83The GroganHVS 5c *232
84GroatE1 6b 7
85Al's AreteE1 5c 4
86Wollock Left HandE1 5b 7
87WollockHVS 4c *313
88Wollock DirectHVS 5c 66
89Wollock problemV2 5c 15
90PulcherrimeVS 4b *872
91Slanting CrackVD 320
92Small is Beautifulf7A *67
93Slanting GullyD 181
94Chockstone ClimbVD *175
95SnatchE3 6a 3
96Stomach TraverseHVS 4c *101
97TiptoeVS 4c *106
98GymnipodiesE4 6b  
99The Hanging Ribf6B **326
100Submergencef7C 18
101Blind Drunkf8A 3
102RemergenceE4 6b **40
103Remergence Startf6B 297
104Blind DateE4 7a *15
105Blind Date Startf7B+ 49
106Blind Figf7C 15
107Blind Alif7B+ 12
108Break Traversef7C+  
109One sloper eliminatef7B 11
110Two sloper eliminatef6C 23
111Mutiny CrackHS 4b ***1526
112MeddleHVS 5a *184
113DetourS 4a *304
114DiversionHVS 5a 37
115Dead Tree CrackHS 4b *116
116Tree Stump TraverseV2 6a 55
117Side FaceS 4a 117
118Side Order ChaosVS 5a 23
119And BeakerHVS 5b 10
120Tiny Slab - Left AreteV0+ 5a *238
121Tiny Slab - LeftV1 5b *262
122Tiny Slab - RightV2 6a *169
123Tiny Slab - Right AreteV4 6b 56
124SolitudeV5 6b 24
 ASH TREE BOULDERS  
126Ash Tree Big SlabVB 29
127Gruesome MantelV3 *15
128Jammed Block MantelV2 21
129Easy AreteVB 29
130Undecut Block LeftV0+ 22
131Undercut Block RightV0+ 20
 ASH TREE WALL  
133Ash Tree Little SlabV1 27
134Sunlight CallerVS 5b 56
135Oak FaceHS 4b 70
136Boggle BoothroydVS 4c 38
137The Last Great ProblemHVS 5c 14
138Striker Left-handf7A+ **16
139Strikerf7C+ 1
140Beach Tea OneHVS 6a *25
141Ivy TreeHVS 5b *171
142Poison IvyE1 6a 15
143All Star's GoalE1 6a 52
144Evening WallE1 5b *215
145Wall ChimneyS 4a *95
146Happily Ever AfterE6 6c *3
147NefertitiE6 6c *12
148Wall CornerHVD 4a *697
149Wall Corner The Direct FinishVS 4c *127
150Ash Tree AreteVS 4c 23
151Ash Tree GirdleS 4a 40
152Ash Tree VariationsVS 5c *545
153Ash Tree WallS 4a **1455
154Ash Tree Wall EliminateVS 5b 46
155Ash Trees ForeverHVS 5b *206
156Ash Tree CrackVD *1304
157Artificial StimulantE2 5b *183
158Bilberry CrackVD *1082
159Bilberry FaceS 4a 668
160Bilberry AreteM 270
161Calvin KlimbE4 6b  
162Twin CracksVD 18
163Rope TrickHS 4c 26
164Who Needs Ropes?M 42
165Head-BangerS 27
166A Phenomenological ProblemHVS 5b 20
167Late Night Antics *HVS 5c 2
168Early Morning PerformanceHVS 5c 14
169With a Little Help from my FriendsE1 5b 2
170NavanaE6 6b *2
171Leaning Block CrackVD 56
172Living in OxfordE7 7a **2
173Sitting in Oxfordf7A+ *6
174Puckf7B *5
175Superstitionf8A ** 
176The Promisef7C ***2
177Green ChimneyVD *87
 THE TERRACE  
179The Terrace Left-handf7C 1
180The Terracef7C+ 94
181Jason's Rooff7C 5
182Jason's stand-upV6 6b 24
183Hanging arÍte V7 3
184Hanging WallV5 6b 33
185La Terracef8A  
186Hanging Wall Sitterf7A 63
 THE SPHINX AREA  
188Gizaf7C 20
189The SphinxE5 6c 22
190Voyagerf8B ***4
191Voyager Sit StartV14  
192Sputnikf7B *1
193Cleo's Edgef5+ 284
194Cleo's Right HandV0- 4a 140
195Cleo's SlabVB 47
196Cleo's Other EdgeVB 41
197Sphinx SlabV0 4c 26
198Roof Goofef6B 86
199Roof Goofe RightV4 6b 27
200Jetty ArettyV2 5c 64
201Jetty ButtressHVD 4b **86
202Jetty NoseV3 6a 21
203Pocket Passerf6A+ 104
204Jetty BulgeV4 6b 63
205Safe Betf6C 50
206Bedrockf7A *18
207Yabbadabbadoo!f6C 50
208Answer the PhoneVS 5b 21
 THE SENTINEL  
210Chicken BrothHVD 4a 9
211Sharks Fin SoupHVS 4c 6
212The GargoyleE2 5c 6
213Phillipa ButtressVS 4c 19
214Crystal TipsE3 6a 43
215Stepped CrackD 443
216Black Slab AreteS 4a 355
217Black SlabVS 4b *908
218Black Slab VariationD *703
219Green GrooveHVD 3c 95
220Now or NeverE1 5b **403
221Too Good To Be ForgottenE2 6a 6
222Sentinel ChimneyHVD 4a *239
223The SentinelE2 5b ***455
224Sentinel IndirectHVS 5a 20
225Sentinel Crack (Burbage North)D *662
226Present ArmsHS 4c 224
227'ArmlessD 23
228High FlyerE2 5b *70
229The GrazerVS 5a *573
230LiebackHS 4b *821
231Think of EnglandM 146
232RingoS 4a *886
233Ring My BellE4 6a 1
234Damp TrousersE1 5a **3
235Ring PieceHVS 6a 59
236Ring ClimbS 4a *674
237Ring ChimneyD 280
238Agnostic's AreteVS 5a *203
239PickpocketVS 4c *158
240Cleft right of PickpocketD 9
 KNIGHTS MOVE  
242Seventy NinerVS 4c 8
243The KefferHVS 5a *243
244With Juicy BitsHVS 5a 14
245Small BeerHS 4a 20
246Still OrangeS 4a *977
247Rise N ShineHVS 5a 25
248Green CrackVD *751
249Dover's ProgressHVS 5a *273
250Hollyash CrackVS 4b **1099
251En PassantE2 6a 3
252Knight's MoveHVS 5a ***2255
253Peter's ProgressVS 4c **155
254Arme BlancheE5 6a *20
255Great CrackVS 5a **454
256The Big ChimneyHS 4b *137
257WindjammerE1 5b *179
258The RainmakerHVS 5b **299
259Big Chimney AreteHS 4b *771
260Barry ManilowVS 4c *171
 BOYAGER  
262Boyagerf7A+ ***59
263Mono Bulgef7B **4
264Monochromef7B ***44
265Asylum Sikaf7B **13
266Ripple Riserf6B 7
267Duo bulge *f6B 2
 TWIN CHIMNEYS TO THARF CAKE  
269December ClimbVD 13
270SnowflakesVD 13
271Survivor's SyndromeE2 5b 3
272Twin Chimneys LaybackHVD 4a **267
273Left Twin ChimneyVD 51
274Right Twin ChimneyHVD 47
275The Happy SlapperHVS 5a 29
276Jimmy RiddleVS 4c 24
277Always another oneVS 5b 9
278BulletproofE1 6a 17
279Split Slab CrackS 4a 102
280Split SlabHVD 4b *88
281Slide AwayE1 5a *43
282Grotto SlabM 163
283Grotto Slab VariantS 3c 23
284Grotto CrackVS 4b 28
285SubmissionVS 5a *114
286TemptationHS 4a 4
287Falstaff's ChimneyVD *91
288Falstaff's InnominateS 4b *303
289Falstaff's CrackD 224
290Pale FaceHVS 5a 19
291Horse NationE1 5b  
292Bilberry CakeVS 4c *434
293Bilberry WallVD *491
294Bilberry AreteS 4a *340
295The Edging MachineHVS 5b 76
296Alpha CrackHS 4b 186
297Omega CrackVD 212
298BlinkersVS 4c 8
299Scarred Buttress ClimbVD *273
300ClinkersVS 5a 2
301First CrackS 4b 396
302Tharf CakeHVS 5a *266
303Left Twin CrackS 4a *520
304Right Twin CrackHVD 4a *442
305Farcical AreteHS 4b *303
 BROOKS' LAYBACK  
307The Irrepressible UrgeE1 5b **155
308The Arctic MammalE3 6a *12
309Small Arctic MammalE1 6a 33
310Left Recess CrackS 3c *470
311Right Recess CrackHS 4a 148
312AceVS 4b *217
313The ChimneyD 58
314The CrackHS 4a 77
315Ace Sharp AreteV3 6a 6
316Thrall's ThrutchS 4a *57
317Brooks' LaybackHS 4b **831
318Wobblestone CrackHVD 4a *474
319Biscuits for BreakfastE4 6b 3
320Red ShiftE3 5c 2
 LONG TALL SALLY  
322Hollybush GullyVD 113
323The ScreamerE1 5c *23
324Gazebo WatusiE6 6b *1
325ObscenityVS 4c ***376
326Amazon CrackHS 4b ***1259
327ArtemisHVS 5a 2
328Amazon GullyM 220
329Boney MoroneyE2 5c *98
330RockersE1 5c *8
331Long Tall SallyE1 5b ***1311
332Three Blind MiceE7 6c **32
333Greeny CrackVS 4b **810
334Rhapsody in GreenHVS 5a 51
335Left Studio ClimbVD 309
336The ArtistVS 5a 28
337Right Studio ClimbVD 348
338Rose FlakeVS 4b *278
3396c Arete below Long Tall Sallyf6C 12
340The FinE1 5b *161
341Ai No CorridaE5 6b **44
342Right FinHVS 5a **636
343Twenty Year ItchE4 6b 5
344The Enthusiastf6A+ *50
345Nicotine Stainf6B **154
346Nicaretef5 *4
347April FoolHVD 329
348Approachf5+ *66
349Spider CrackVS 5b *538
350The Be AllHVD 4a 313
351Pest ControlV4 6b 6
352The End AllHS 4b 129
 END SLAB  
354Shelf Wallf5+ 40
355Unnamed #3HS 4b 12
356End ButtressD 336
357The PenultimateE1 5b *268
358Right Arete V6 2
359End SlabD *607
360False End SlabD 43
361End Slab RampD 64
362Two Pocket Sitterf5+ *186
363Plank Sanction *V8 **2
364Front End SlabVD 38
365Back End SlabD 388
366EnderD *566
367Crack Habit *f5 *19
368Endest AreteVD 253
369EndsteD 422
370Grizzly Bearf6C *11
371Almost the last wordE1 5c 16
372Pocket DynoV7 6b 1
373Capped RibV3 6a 54
374Tidal WaveV0- 1
 VELVET ROOF  
376Velvet Crabf7A+ 55
377Velvet RoofV2 5c 6
378Right-hand RoofV4 5c 12
379Zaff Skoczylasf7C 49
380Zaff Skoczylas (sit start)f7B+ **26
381Zaff Skoczylas Right Hand *f7C 4
 END BOULDERS  
383Little Cube AreteV1 5b 25
384Once Upon A Timef7B+  
385Beyond The Endf3+ 56
386Daddy WallV0- 4c 87
387Daddy Bear AreteV0- 5a 66
388Daddy Arete RightV0+ 5b 53
389Daddy's Arete Right - Right. *V0 4c 6
390Daddy Right AreteV0- 4b 45
391Mommy WallV1 5b 75
392Mommy Bear AreteV0+ 5b 63
393Mommy Bear RightV1 5b 83
394Baby Bear WallV0 5a *63
395Baby Bear AreteV0- 4c 65
 LOCATION UNCERTAIN  
397Pearl Tree Crack HS 4b 1
398Ellis's Very Eliminate *V3 6a 1
399Bilberry Pie *E1 5b 1
400Bubble *V6 **3
401Rocket Boy *f7A *5
402Kirkpatrick's Corner *S 4a 1
403King's Return *E2 5b 5
404Don't get between *VB 15
405Easy Problem 1 *V0- 4b 8
406Easy Problem 2 *V0- 4b 7
407Sally's Smile *VD 4a 2
408Front End Face Right Arete *V0+ 5a *5
409North Roof Eliminate *V5 6a 1
410Side-wall *V0+ 5a 2
411Long Shot *V4 6b 1
412Mr Sheen *f7A+  
413Mr Sheen (sit start) *f7B 1
4147a+ *VB *** 
4157a+ Under Jason's Roof *f7A ***1
416Tiny Roof *V3 5c **4
417Ash Tree Variation *V2 **3
418The end all slab *V3 6a 3
419North roof variant *f6B+ *2
420Seams There's More *f6B 6b  
421Bat One Blind *E1 5c **1
422One Blind Bat *E3 5c ***1
423Hush *V1 5b 1
424Hush Arete *V0+ 5a 2
425Peter's Progress hvs finish *HVS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The footholds above the bulge on Long Tall Sally are getting a bit polished
Impact John - 24/May/04