Burbage North

Climbs 405 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 420m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features

A fairly continuous section of small natural buttress (8 - 15m) of good grit. A popular Summer evening soloing and bouldering venue with routes mainly in the lower to middle grades. Classics include Mutiny Crack (VS 4b), The Knight's Move (HVS 5a), Obscenity (VS 4c), Amazon Crack (HS 4a) and Long Tall Sally (E1 5b). Living in Oxford (E7 6c) and Superstition (E8 7a)await repeats. Get to it!

Approach notes

Approach from the Upper Burbage Bridge (SK 263829 - car parking) in less than 2 min! A more leisurely approach can be made up the Burbage Valley from just below The Fox House Inn (SK 267803). Both starts accessible by bus from Sheffield.

Access notes

All Ring Ouzel restrictions are lifted.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE CHANT  
2North RoofV3 6a 61
3RT Wallf5+ 95
4RT Wall - Right sideV2 5c 43
5Route 1HS 4b *1075
6Route 1.25f5+ 161
7Route 1.5f5 *650
8Route 2S 4a *1667
9Route 2.5f5 *463
10Route 3S 4a *1592
11Route 3.5f6A 63
12Route 4f5+ *302
13Route 5HVD 4a 490
14First Wall TraverseV2 5c 86
15Cranberry WallVD 722
16Cranberry CrackVD 1499
17The ChantHVS 5a *1134
18The Chant Direct FinishE2 6a 85
19Chant - Direct StartHVS 5b 163
20Chant - Right SideHVS 5c 71
2120 Foot CrackS 4b *1871
22The Twenty Foot TraverseV3 6a 44
23Curse - Left SideVS 5b 72
24The Cursef5 *678
25Lost in Francef5+ *491
 TRIANGLE BUTTRESS  
27Triangle Buttress GirdleS 4b 43
28Little PlumbD 852
29Base Over ApexVS 4c 310
30BaselessHVD *1019
31Triangle Buttress AreteVD *1146
32Triangle Buttress DirectS 4a *622
33Triangle Buttress Direct Startf5 689
34Triangle CrackHVD 4a *698
35Leaning WallS 4b 240
36Leaning Wall Really DirectE1 6a 19
37Leaning Wall DirectHS 5a *677
38Little White JugVS 4c *398
39Big Black 'unHVS 5a *239
40SteptoeM *806
41... and SonD 33
42Triangle Buttress Low Level TraverseV3 6a 33
 BANANA FINGER  
44Monkey WallM 734
45Monkey Wall DirectD 35
46Monkey Wall Slot *VS 4c 1
47Definitive 5.12f6C *63
48Cinzano Rooff7B 7
49Cinzano Roof (RH Start)f6C *6
50Monkey CrackV1 5c 52
51Monkey CornerHVD *778
52Monkey Corner VariantV2 5c 23
53Banana AreteV2 5c 96
54Banana Reversef7A 84
55Banana Finger Directf6C *286
56Banana Fingerf6A **968
57Banana Right-handV2 5c 11
58Sloper Pullf6C *22
59Monk OnHVS 5b 112
 OVERHANGING BUTTRESS  
61Ad InfinitumS 4a *234
62Little Brown ThugV5 6b 29
63Wednesday ClimbHVS 5b *355
64Life in a Radioactive Dustbinf6C *73
65The Disposable BubbleE4 6b 18
66Overhanging Buttress DirectS 4a *1199
67Overhang Buttress VariationVD 4a 99
68Overhanging Buttress AreteM *978
69Burgess FaceHS 4c 173
70Burgess ButtressD 607
71Burgess StreetD 358
72Union StreetS 4a 5
 ALL QUIET AREA  
74All Quiet on the Eastern Frontf6A+ *262
75All Quiet Directf7A+ 47
76All Sit-Downf7B+ 5
77The BuskerVS 4c 419
78Bracken AreteVS 4c 79
79Bracken CrackHVD 4a *611
80Green SlabVS 5a 500
81Fallen Slab LipV6 21
 REMERGENCE BUTTRESS  
83The GroganHVS 5c *233
84GroatE1 6b 7
85Al's AreteE1 5c 4
86Wollock Left HandE1 5b 7
87WollockHVS 4c *317
88Wollock DirectHVS 5c 67
89Wollock problemV2 5c 15
90PulcherrimeVS 4b *878
91Slanting CrackVD 321
92Small is Beautifulf7A *67
93Slanting GullyD 182
94Chockstone ClimbVD *176
95SnatchE3 6a 3
96Stomach TraverseHVS 4c *101
97TiptoeVS 4c *107
98GymnipodiesE4 6b  
99The Hanging Ribf6B **326
100Submergencef7C 18
101Blind Drunkf8A 3
102RemergenceE4 6b **40
103Remergence Startf6B 297
104Blind DateE4 7a *15
105Blind Date Startf7B+ 49
106Blind Figf7C 15
107Blind Alif7B+ 12
108Break Traversef7C+  
109One sloper eliminatef7B 11
110Two sloper eliminatef6C 23
111Mutiny CrackHS 4b ***1538
112MeddleHVS 5a *187
113DetourS 4a *307
114DiversionHVS 5a 37
115Dead Tree CrackHS 4b *118
116Tree Stump TraverseV2 6a 55
117Side FaceS 4a 119
118Side Order ChaosVS 5a 23
119And BeakerHVS 5b 10
120Tiny Slab - Left AreteV0+ 5a *239
121Tiny Slab - LeftV1 5b *263
122Tiny Slab - RightV2 6a *169
123Tiny Slab - Right AreteV4 6b 56
124SolitudeV5 6b 24
 ASH TREE BOULDERS  
126Ash Tree Big SlabVB 29
127Gruesome MantelV3 *15
128Jammed Block MantelV2 21
129Easy AreteVB 29
130Undecut Block LeftV0+ 22
131Undercut Block RightV0+ 20
 ASH TREE WALL  
133Ash Tree Little SlabV1 27
134Sunlight CallerVS 5b 57
135Oak FaceHS 4b 71
136Boggle BoothroydVS 4c 38
137The Last Great ProblemHVS 5c 15
138Striker Left-handf7A+ **16
139Strikerf7C+ 1
140Beach Tea OneHVS 6a *25
141Ivy TreeHVS 5b *173
142Poison IvyE1 6a 15
143All Star's GoalE1 6a 52
144Evening WallE1 5b *215
145Wall ChimneyS 4a *95
146Happily Ever AfterE6 6c *3
147NefertitiE6 6c *12
148Wall CornerHVD 4a *699
149Wall Corner The Direct FinishVS 4c *127
150Ash Tree AreteVS 4c 23
151Ash Tree GirdleS 4a 40
152Ash Tree VariationsVS 5c *550
153Ash Tree WallS 4a **1466
154Ash Tree Wall EliminateVS 5b 46
155Ash Trees ForeverHVS 5b *210
156Ash Tree CrackVD *1315
157Artificial StimulantE2 5b *185
158Bilberry CrackVD *1088
159Bilberry FaceS 4a 672
160Bilberry AreteM 272
161Calvin KlimbE4 6b  
162Twin CracksVD 18
163Rope TrickHS 4c 26
164Who Needs Ropes?M 42
165Head-BangerS 27
166A Phenomenological ProblemHVS 5b 20
167Late Night AnticsHVS 5c 2
168Early Morning PerformanceHVS 5c 14
169With a Little Help from my FriendsE1 5b 2
170NavanaE6 6b *2
171Leaning Block CrackVD 56
172Living in OxfordE7 7a **3
173Sitting in Oxfordf7A+ *6
174Puckf7B *5
175Superstitionf8A ** 
176The Promisef7C ***2
177Green ChimneyVD *87
 THE TERRACE  
179The Terrace Left-handf7C 1
180The Terracef7C+ 94
181Jason's Rooff7C 5
182Jason's stand-upV6 6b 24
183Hanging arÍteV7 3
184Hanging WallV5 6b 35
185La Terracef8A  
186Hanging Wall Sitterf7A 63
 THE SPHINX AREA  
188Gizaf7C 20
189The SphinxE5 6c 22
190Voyagerf8B ***3
191Voyager Sit StartV14  
192Sputnikf7B *1
193Cleo's Edgef5+ 287
194Cleo's Right HandV0- 4a 142
195Cleo's SlabVB 49
196Cleo's Other EdgeVB 42
197Sphinx SlabV0 4c 27
198Roof Goofef6B 88
199Roof Goofe RightV4 6b 28
200Jetty ArettyV2 5c 64
201Jetty ButtressHVD 4b **87
202Jetty NoseV3 6a 21
203Pocket Passerf6A+ 104
204Jetty BulgeV4 6b 63
205Safe Betf6C 50
206Bedrockf7A *18
207Yabbadabbadoo!f6C 50
208Answer the PhoneVS 5b 21
 THE SENTINEL  
210Chicken BrothHVD 4a 9
211Sharks Fin SoupHVS 4c 6
212The GargoyleE2 5c 6
213Phillipa ButtressVS 4c 19
214Crystal TipsE3 6a 44
215Stepped CrackD 447
216Black Slab AreteS 4a 357
217Black SlabVS 4b *913
218Black Slab VariationD *709
219Green GrooveHVD 3c 97
220Now or NeverE1 5b **405
221Too Good To Be ForgottenE2 6a 6
222Sentinel ChimneyHVD 4a *244
223The SentinelE2 5b ***456
224Sentinel IndirectHVS 5a 20
225Sentinel Crack (Burbage North)D *673
226Present ArmsHS 4c 227
227'ArmlessD 23
228High FlyerE2 5b *70
229The GrazerVS 5a *580
230LiebackHS 4b *833
231Think of EnglandM 146
232RingoS 4a *892
233Ring My BellE4 6a 1
234Damp TrousersE1 5a **3
235Ring PieceHVS 6a 60
236Ring ClimbS 4a *682
237Ring ChimneyD 282
238Agnostic's AreteVS 5a *205
239PickpocketVS 4c *160
240Cleft right of PickpocketD 9
 KNIGHTS MOVE  
242Seventy NinerVS 4c 8
243The KefferHVS 5a *245
244With Juicy BitsHVS 5a 15
245Small BeerHS 4a 20
246Still OrangeS 4a *993
247Rise N ShineHVS 5a 25
248Green CrackVD *762
249Dover's ProgressHVS 5a *275
250Hollyash CrackVS 4b **1108
251En PassantE2 6a 3
252Knight's MoveHVS 5a ***2280
253Peter's ProgressVS 4c **156
254Arme BlancheE5 6a *20
255Great CrackVS 5a **458
256The Big ChimneyHS 4b *139
257WindjammerE1 5b *180
258The RainmakerHVS 5b **304
259Big Chimney AreteHS 4b *777
260Barry ManilowVS 4c *172
 BOYAGER  
262Boyagerf7A+ ***59
263Mono Bulgef7B **4
264Monochromef7B ***44
265Asylum Sikaf7B **13
266Ripple Riserf6B 7
267Duo bulgef6B 2
 TWIN CHIMNEYS TO THARF CAKE  
269December ClimbVD 13
270SnowflakesVD 13
271Survivor's SyndromeE2 5b 3
272Twin Chimneys LaybackHVD 4a **271
273Left Twin ChimneyVD 51
274Right Twin ChimneyHVD 47
275The Happy SlapperHVS 5a 29
276Jimmy RiddleVS 4c 24
277Always another oneVS 5b 9
278BulletproofE1 6a 17
279Split Slab CrackS 4a 103
280Split SlabHVD 4b *88
281Slide AwayE1 5a *43
282Grotto SlabM 164
283Grotto Slab VariantS 3c 23
284Grotto CrackVS 4b 28
285SubmissionVS 5a *114
286TemptationHS 4a 4
287Falstaff's ChimneyVD *91
288Falstaff's InnominateS 4b *306
289Falstaff's CrackD 226
290Pale FaceHVS 5a 19
291Horse NationE1 5b  
292Bilberry CakeVS 4c *437
293Bilberry WallVD *494
294Bilberry AreteS 4a *342
295The Edging MachineHVS 5b 76
296Alpha CrackHS 4b 186
297Omega CrackVD 215
298BlinkersVS 4c 8
299Scarred Buttress ClimbVD *275
300ClinkersVS 5a 2
301First CrackS 4b 398
302Tharf CakeHVS 5a *267
303Left Twin CrackS 4a *525
304Right Twin CrackHVD 4a *447
305Farcical AreteHS 4b *308
 BROOKS' LAYBACK  
307The Irrepressible UrgeE1 5b **155
308The Arctic MammalE3 6a *12
309Small Arctic MammalE1 6a 33
310Left Recess CrackS 3c *475
311Right Recess CrackHS 4a 153
312AceVS 4b *218
313The ChimneyD 59
314The CrackHS 4a 77
315Ace Sharp AreteV3 6a 6
316Thrall's ThrutchS 4a *57
317Brooks' LaybackHS 4b **837
318Wobblestone CrackHVD 4a *479
319Biscuits for BreakfastE4 6b 3
320Red ShiftE3 5c 2
 LONG TALL SALLY  
322Hollybush GullyVD 113
323The ScreamerE1 5c *23
324Gazebo WatusiE6 6b *1
325ObscenityVS 4c ***379
326Amazon CrackHS 4b ***1272
327ArtemisHVS 5a 2
328Amazon GullyM 223
329Boney MoroneyE2 5c *98
330RockersE1 5c *8
331Long Tall SallyE1 5b ***1317
332Three Blind MiceE7 6c **32
333Greeny CrackVS 4b **822
334Rhapsody in GreenHVS 5a 51
335Left Studio ClimbVD 315
336The ArtistVS 5a 28
337Right Studio ClimbVD 351
338Rose FlakeVS 4b *280
3396c Arete below Long Tall Sallyf6C 12
340The FinE1 5b *161
341Ai No CorridaE5 6b **44
342Right FinHVS 5a **641
343Twenty Year ItchE4 6b 5
344The Enthusiastf6A+ *50
345Nicotine Stainf6B **154
346Nicaretef5 *4
347April FoolHVD 331
348Approachf5+ *66
349Spider CrackVS 5b *538
350The Be AllHVD 4a 314
351Pest ControlV4 6b 6
352The End AllHS 4b 131
 END SLAB  
354Shelf Wallf5+ 41
355Unnamed #3HS 4b 12
356End ButtressD 340
357The PenultimateE1 5b *272
358Right AreteV6 2
359End SlabD *612
360False End SlabD 44
361End Slab RampD 65
362Two Pocket Sitterf5+ *189
363Plank SanctionV8 **2
364Front End SlabVD 39
365Back End SlabD 392
366EnderD *571
367Crack Habitf5 *19
368Endest AreteVD 255
369EndsteD 425
370Grizzly Bearf6C *11
371Almost the last wordE1 5c 16
372Pocket DynoV7 6b 1
373Capped RibV3 6a 54
374Tidal WaveV0- 1
 VELVET ROOF  
376Velvet Crabf7A+ 55
377Velvet RoofV2 5c 6
378Right-hand RoofV4 5c 12
379Zaff Skoczylasf7C 49
380Zaff Skoczylas (sit start)f7B+ **26
381Zaff Skoczylas Right Handf7C 4
 END BOULDERS  
383Little Cube AreteV1 5b 25
384Once Upon A Timef7B+  
385Beyond The Endf3+ 56
386Daddy WallV0- 4c 87
387Daddy Bear AreteV0- 5a 66
388Daddy Arete RightV0+ 5b 53
389Daddy's Arete Right - Right.V0 4c 6
390Daddy Right AreteV0- 4b 45
391Mommy WallV1 5b 75
392Mommy Bear AreteV0+ 5b 63
393Mommy Bear RightV1 5b 83
394Baby Bear WallV0 5a *63
395Baby Bear AreteV0- 4c 65
 LOCATION UNCERTAIN  
397Pearl Tree CrackHS 4b 1
398Ellis's Very EliminateV3 6a 1
399Bilberry PieE1 5b 1
400BubbleV6 **3
401Rocket Boyf7A *5
402Kirkpatrick's CornerS 4a 1
403King's ReturnE2 5b 5
404Don't get betweenVB 15
405Easy Problem 1V0- 4b 9
406Easy Problem 2V0- 4b 8
407Sally's SmileVD 4a 2
408Front End Face Right AreteV0+ 5a *5
409North Roof EliminateV5 6a 1
410Side-wallV0+ 5a 2
411Long ShotV4 6b 1
412Mr Sheenf7A+  
413Mr Sheen (sit start)f7B 1
4147a+VB *** 
4157a+ Under Jason's Rooff7A ***1
416Tiny RoofV3 5c **4
417The end all slabV3 6a 3
418North roof variantf6B+ *2
419Seams There's Moref6B 6b  
420Bat One BlindE1 5c **1
421One Blind BatE3 5c ***1
422HushV1 5b 1
423Hush AreteV0+ 5a 2
424Peter's Progress hvs finishHVS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The footholds above the bulge on Long Tall Sally are getting a bit polished
Impact John - 24/May/04