Burbage North

Climbs 396 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 420m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A fairly continuous section of small natural buttress (8 - 15m) of good grit. A popular Summer evening soloing and bouldering venue with routes mainly in the lower to middle grades. Classics include Mutiny Crack (VS 4b), The Knight's Move (HVS 5a), Obscenity (VS 4c), Amazon Crack (HS 4a) and Long Tall Sally (E1 5b). Living in Oxford (E7 6c) and Superstition (E8 7a)await repeats. Get to it!

Access notes
Approach from the Upper Burbage Bridge (SK 263829 - car parking) in less than 2 min! A more leisurely approach can be made up the Burbage Valley from just below The Fox House Inn (SK 267803). Both starts accessible by bus from Sheffield.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE CHANT  
2North RoofV3 6a 54
3RT Wallf5+ 93
4RT Wall - Right sideV2 5c 40
5Route 1HS 4b *1013
6Route 1.25f5+ 151
7Route 1.5f5 *611
8Route 2S 4a *1568
9Route 2.5f5 *434
10Route 3S 4a *1498
11Route 3.5f6A 56
12Route 4f5+ *293
13Route 5HVD 4a 467
14First Wall TraverseV2 5c 81
15Cranberry WallVD 670
16Cranberry CrackVD 1423
17The ChantHVS 5a *1083
18The Chant Direct FinishE2 6a 75
19Chant - Direct StartHVS 5b 153
20Chant - Right SideHVS 5c 66
2120 Foot CrackS 4b *1776
22The Twenty Foot TraverseV3 6a 41
23Curse - Left SideVS 5b 66
24The Cursef5 *652
25Lost in Francef5+ *471
 TRIANGLE BUTTRESS  
27Triangle Buttress GirdleS 4b 42
28Little PlumbD 801
29Base Over ApexVS 4c 285
30BaselessHVD *954
31Triangle Buttress AreteVD *1070
32Triangle Buttress DirectS 4a *551
33Triangle Buttress Direct Startf5 677
34Triangle CrackHVD 4a *644
35Leaning WallS 4b 229
36Leaning Wall Really DirectE1 6a 15
37Leaning Wall DirectHS 5a *630
38Little White JugVS 4c *358
39Big Black 'unHVS 5a *222
40SteptoeM *749
41... and SonD 26
42Triangle Buttress Low Level TraverseV3 6a 31
 BANANA FINGER  
44Monkey WallM 707
45Monkey Wall DirectD 33
46Monkey Wall Slot *VS 4c 1
47Definitive 5.12f6C *59
48Cinzano Rooff7B 7
49Cinzano Roof (RH Start)f6C *6
50Monkey CrackV1 5c 49
51Monkey CornerHVD *736
52Monkey Corner VariantV2 5c 21
53Banana AreteV2 5c 93
54Banana Reversef7A 82
55Banana Finger Directf6C *275
56Banana Fingerf6A **914
57Banana Right-handV2 5c 6
58Sloper Pullf6C *21
59Monk OnHVS 5b 109
 OVERHANGING BUTTRESS  
61Ad InfinitumS 4a *227
62Little Brown ThugV5 6b 28
63Wednesday ClimbHVS 5b *343
64Life in a Radioactive Dustbinf6C *71
65The Disposable BubbleE4 6b 16
66Overhanging Buttress DirectS 4a *1141
67Overhang Buttress VariationVD 4a 96
68Overhanging Buttress AreteM *935
69Burgess FaceHS 4c 163
70Burgess ButtressD 582
71Burgess StreetD 336
72Union StreetS 4a 1
 ALL QUIET AREA  
74All Quiet on the Eastern Frontf6A+ *250
75All Quiet Directf7A+ 43
76All Sit-Downf7B+ 5
77The BuskerVS 4c 392
78Bracken AreteVS 4c 76
79Bracken CrackHVD 4a *574
80Green SlabVS 5a 467
81Fallen Slab LipV6 18
 REMERGENCE BUTTRESS  
83The GroganHVS 5c *216
84GroatE1 6b 7
85Al's AreteE1 5c 4
86Wollock Left HandE1 5b 7
87WollockHVS 4c *291
88Wollock DirectHVS 5c 59
89Wollock problemV2 5c 14
90PulcherrimeVS 4b *811
91Slanting CrackVD 297
92Small is Beautifulf7A *63
93Slanting GullyD 171
94Chockstone ClimbVD *159
95SnatchE3 6a 3
96Stomach TraverseHVS 4c *97
97TiptoeVS 4c *101
98GymnipodiesE4 6b  
99The Hanging Ribf6B **313
100Submergencef7C 17
101Blind Drunkf8A 3
102RemergenceE4 6b **39
103Remergence Startf6B 285
104Blind DateE4 7a *16
105Blind Date Startf7B+ 47
106Blind Figf7C 15
107Blind Alif7B+ 12
108Break Traversef7C+  
109One sloper eliminatef7B 8
110Two sloper eliminatef6C 21
111Mutiny CrackHS 4b ***1459
112MeddleHVS 5a *174
113DetourS 4a *284
114DiversionHVS 5a 36
115Dead Tree CrackHS 4b *110
116Tree Stump TraverseV2 6a 50
117Side FaceS 4a 111
118Side Order ChaosVS 5a 22
119And BeakerHVS 5b 9
120Tiny Slab - Left AreteV0+ 5a *220
121Tiny Slab - LeftV1 5b *242
122Tiny Slab - RightV2 6a *158
123Tiny Slab - Right AreteV4 6b 54
124SolitudeV5 6b 21
 ASH TREE BOULDERS  
126Ash Tree Big SlabVB 27
127Gruesome MantelV3 *11
128Jammed Block MantelV2 18
129Easy AreteVB 27
130Undecut Block LeftV0+ 21
131Undercut Block RightV0+ 19
 ASH TREE WALL  
133Ash Tree Little SlabV1 25
134Sunlight CallerVS 5b 53
135Oak FaceHS 4b 64
136Boggle BoothroydVS 4c 34
137The Last Great ProblemHVS 5c 13
138Striker Left-handf7A+ **14
139Strikerf7C+ 1
140Beach Tea OneHVS 6a *24
141Ivy TreeHVS 5b *167
142Poison IvyE1 6a 15
143All Star's GoalE1 6a 48
144Evening WallE1 5b *203
145Wall ChimneyS 4a *91
146Happily Ever AfterE6 6c *3
147NefertitiE6 6c *12
148Wall CornerHVD 4a *664
149Wall Corner The Direct FinishVS 4c *124
150Ash Tree AreteVS 4c 23
151Ash Tree GirdleS 4a 40
152Ash Tree VariationsVS 5c *530
153Ash Tree WallS 4a **1389
154Ash Tree Wall EliminateVS 5b 44
155Ash Trees ForeverHVS 5b *196
156Ash Tree CrackVD *1235
157Artificial StimulantE2 5b *173
158Bilberry CrackVD *1014
159Bilberry FaceS 4a 634
160Bilberry AreteS 4a *244
161Calvin KlimbE4 6b  
162Twin CracksVD 14
163Rope TrickHS 4c 25
164Who Needs Ropes?M 37
165Head-BangerS 26
166A Phenomenological ProblemHVS 5b 20
167Late Night Antics *HVS 5c 2
168Early Morning PerformanceHVS 5c 14
169With a Little Help from my FriendsE1 5b 2
170NavanaE6 6b *2
171Leaning Block CrackVD 52
172Living in OxfordE7 7a **2
173Sitting in Oxfordf7A+ *6
174Puckf7B *5
175Superstitionf8A ** 
176The Promisef7C ***2
177Green ChimneyVD *85
 THE TERRACE  
179The Terrace Left-handf7C 1
180The Terracef7C+ 91
181Jason's Rooff7C 5
182Jason's stand-upV6 6b 22
183Hanging arête V7 3
184Hanging WallV5 6b 32
185La Terracef8A  
186Hanging Wall Sitterf7A 63
 THE SPHINX AREA  
188Gizaf7C 19
189The SphinxE5 6c 22
190Voyagerf8B ***3
191Voyager Sit StartV14  
192Sputnikf7B *1
193Cleo's Edgef5+ 275
194Cleo's Right HandV0- 4a 133
195Cleo's SlabVB 41
196Cleo's Other EdgeVB 35
197Sphinx SlabV0 4c 25
198Roof Goofef6B 82
199Roof Goofe RightV4 6b 24
200Jetty ArettyV2 5c 61
201Jetty ButtressHVD 4b **83
202Jetty NoseV3 6a 18
203Pocket Passerf6A+ 100
204Jetty BulgeV4 6b 61
205Safe Betf6C 49
206Bedrockf7A *16
207Yabbadabbadoo!f6C 49
208Answer the PhoneVS 5b 20
 THE SENTINEL  
210Chicken BrothHVD 4a 9
211Sharks Fin SoupHVS 4c 6
212The GargoyleE2 5c 6
213Phillipa ButtressVS 4c 18
214Crystal TipsE3 6a 37
215Stepped CrackD 415
216Black Slab AreteS 4a 337
217Black SlabVS 4b *873
218Black Slab VariationD *662
219Green GrooveHVD 3c 86
220Now or NeverE1 5b **371
221Too Good To Be ForgottenE2 6a 6
222Sentinel ChimneyHVD 4a *231
223The SentinelE2 5b ***426
224Sentinel IndirectHVS 5a 20
225Sentinel Crack (Burbage North)D *618
226Present ArmsHS 4c 216
227'ArmlessD 20
228High FlyerE2 5b *67
229The GrazerVS 5a *537
230LiebackHS 4b *785
231Think of EnglandM 134
232RingoS 4a *836
233Ring My BellE4 6a 1
234Damp TrousersE1 5a **3
235Ring PieceHVS 6a 58
236Ring ClimbS 4a *643
237Ring ChimneyD 262
238Agnostic's AreteVS 5a *198
239PickpocketVS 4c *153
240Cleft right of PickpocketD 9
 KNIGHTS MOVE  
242Seventy NinerVS 4c 1
243The KefferHVS 5a *220
244With Juicy BitsHVS 5a 11
245Small BeerHS 4a 20
246Still OrangeS 4a *922
247Rise N ShineHVS 5a 22
248Green CrackVD *711
249Dover's ProgressHVS 5a *255
250Hollyash CrackVS 4b **1034
251En PassantE2 6a 3
252Knight's MoveHVS 5a ***2136
253Peter's ProgressVS 4c **143
254Arme BlancheE5 6a *18
255Great CrackVS 5a **427
256The Big ChimneyHS 4b *127
257WindjammerE1 5b *165
258The RainmakerHVS 5b **279
259Big Chimney AreteHS 4b *721
260Barry ManilowVS 4c *159
 BOYAGER  
262Boyagerf7A+ ***58
263Mono Bulgef7B **4
264Monochromef7B ***42
265Asylum Sikaf7B **9
266Ripple Riserf6B 6
267Duo bulge *f6B 2
 TWIN CHIMNEYS TO THARF CAKE  
269December ClimbVD 13
270SnowflakesVD 13
271Survivor's SyndromeE2 5b 3
272Twin Chimneys LaybackHVD 4a **243
273Left Twin ChimneyVD 46
274Right Twin ChimneyHVD 43
275The Happy SlapperHVS 5a 29
276Jimmy RiddleVS 4c 21
277Always another oneVS 5b 9
278BulletproofE1 6a 15
279Split Slab CrackS 4a 92
280Split SlabHVD 4b *82
281Slide AwayE1 5a *37
282Grotto SlabM 152
283Grotto Slab VariantS 3c 23
284Grotto CrackVS 4b 28
285SubmissionVS 5a *108
286TemptationHS 4a 4
287Falstaff's ChimneyVD *84
288Falstaff's InnominateS 4b *283
289Falstaff's CrackD 210
290Pale FaceHVS 5a 19
291Horse NationE1 5b  
292Bilberry CakeVS 4c *394
293Bilberry WallVD *461
294Bilberry AreteM 324
295The Edging MachineHVS 5b 73
296Alpha CrackHS 4b 176
297Omega CrackVD 199
298BlinkersVS 4c 7
299Scarred Buttress ClimbVD *250
300ClinkersVS 5a 2
301First CrackS 4b 372
302Tharf CakeHVS 5a *256
303Left Twin CrackS 4a *495
304Right Twin CrackHVD 4a *422
305Farcical AreteHS 4b *285
 BROOKS' LAYBACK  
307The Irrepressible UrgeE1 5b **151
308The Arctic MammalE3 6a *12
309Small Arctic MammalE1 6a 33
310Left Recess CrackS 3c *452
311Right Recess CrackHS 4a 141
312AceVS 4b *207
313The ChimneyD 53
314The CrackHS 4a 76
315Ace Sharp AreteV3 6a 6
316Thrall's ThrutchS 4a *54
317Brooks' LaybackHS 4b **789
318Wobblestone CrackHVD 4a *459
319Biscuits for BreakfastE4 6b 3
320Red ShiftE3 5c 2
 LONG TALL SALLY  
322Hollybush GullyVD 105
323The ScreamerE1 5c *23
324Gazebo WatusiE6 6b *1
325ObscenityVS 4c ***360
326Amazon CrackHS 4b ***1192
327ArtemisHVS 5a 2
328Amazon GullyM 205
329Boney MoroneyE2 5c *92
330RockersE1 5c *7
331Long Tall SallyE1 5b ***1226
332Three Blind MiceE7 6c **32
333Greeny CrackVS 4b **764
334Rhapsody in GreenHVS 5a 51
335Left Studio ClimbVD 296
336The ArtistVS 5a 26
337Right Studio ClimbVD 328
338Rose FlakeVS 4b *269
3396c Arete below Long Tall Sallyf6C 10
340The FinE1 5b *156
341Ai No CorridaE5 6b **44
342Right FinHVS 5a **607
343Twenty Year ItchE4 6b 5
344The Enthusiastf6A+ *46
345Nicotine Stainf6B **142
346Nicaretef5 * 
347April FoolHVD 311
348Approachf5+ *64
349Spider CrackVS 5b *516
350The Be AllHVD 4a 301
351Pest ControlV4 6b 6
352The End AllHS 4b 120
 END SLAB  
354Shelf Wallf5+ 38
355Unnamed #3HS 4b 10
356End ButtressD 320
357The PenultimateE1 5b *252
358Right Arete V6 2
359End SlabD *580
360False End SlabD 38
361End Slab RampD 55
362Two Pocket Sitterf5+ *178
363Plank Sanction *V8 **1
364Front End SlabVD 32
365Back End SlabD 364
366EnderD *545
367Crack Habit *f5 *15
368Endest AreteVD 238
369EndsteD 400
370Grizzly Bearf6C *10
371Almost the last wordE1 5c 15
372Pocket DynoV7 6b 1
373Capped RibV3 6a 51
374Tidal WaveV0- 1
 VELVET ROOF  
376Velvet Crabf7A+ 53
377Velvet RoofV2 5c 6
378Right-hand RoofV4 5c 12
379Zaff Skoczylasf7C 42
380Zaff Skoczylas (sit start)f7B+ **24
381Zaff Skoczylas Right Hand *f7C 4
 END BOULDERS  
383Little Cube AreteV1 5b 24
384Once Upon A Timef7B+  
385Beyond The Endf3+ 53
386Daddy WallV0- 4c 80
387Daddy Bear AreteV0- 5a 61
388Daddy Arete RightV0+ 5b 49
389Daddy's Arete Right - Right. *V0 4c 5
390Daddy Right AreteV0- 4b 39
391Mommy WallV1 5b 70
392Mommy Bear AreteV0+ 5b 60
393Mommy Bear RightV1 5b 80
394Baby Bear WallV0 5a *59
395Baby Bear AreteV0- 4c 60
 LOCATION UNCERTAIN  
397Pearl Tree Crack HS 4b 1
398Ellis's Very Eliminate *V3 6a 1
399Bilberry Pie *E1 5b 1
400Bubble *V6 **3
401Rocket Boy *f7A *5
402Kirkpatrick's Corner *S 4a 1
403King's Return *E2 5b 5
404Don't get between *VB 13
405Easy Problem 1 *V0- 4b 5
406Easy Problem 2 *V0- 4b 5
407Sally's Smile *VD 4a 2
408Front End Face Right Arete *V0+ 5a *2
409North Roof Eliminate *V5 6a 1
410Side-wall *V0+ 5a 2
411Long Shot *V4 6b 1
412Mr Sheen *f7A+  
413Mr Sheen (sit start) *f7B 1
4147a+ *VB *** 
4157a+ Under Jason's Roof *f7A ***1
416Tiny Roof *V3 5c **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The footholds above the bulge on Long Tall Sally are getting a bit polished
Impact John - 24/May/04