There are two possible approaches, from the north or the south. If travelling from the north along the N332 pass Calpe and then turn in to the Maryvilla complex (this is a no-left-turn so pass the junction and turn back north at the lay-by around the bend). Once in the Maryvilla follow the road and take all the right turns which are signposted to Castellet de Calp. Park near the rough track entrance (next to a villa) and then follow this wide track which heads towards the Castellet (3 or 4 minutes). This joins up with the other approach.
Alternatively when travelling from the south on the N332, take the turning into the Mascrat complex. Follow the road to the base and pass the gorge the take the turning onto the new road that leads upwards to the Castellet and the Toix ridge. At the top park at the turning point and find the path leading around to the north face.
The path is marked by a number of cairns and takes a couple of minutes to reach Cueva Peque–a. Pass the black tree and reach the edge of the face close to a electricity pylon. Follow the path down and either climb over two large boulders or skirt these by going right. The Sector Cueva Peque–a is above you. Use the fixed rope to assist you in gaining the cave.
Sector Cueva Grande is across to the right at the same level.
For the central wall follow the path down the hillside, initially away from the walls then back to them÷allow 5 minutes approach time.
|1||Lifes a Block||6b+||2|
|3||The Razors Edge||7b+||1|
|5||Collateral Damage||7c ***||1|
|7||Stalking the Angel||7b+||6|
|11||Chasing the Dinosaur||7b+||12|
|13||Brain Freeze||6c+ **||11|
|14||The Kraken||7c+ **||2|
|16||Brando Alto||6c ***||5|
|25||The Long Con||7b+||3|
|26||Vamos a la Playa||7b **||1|
|27||Red Bull||7c+ *||4|
|29||Fast Lane||7c+ ***||1|
|30||Pilot Error||6c+ **||7|
|31||Perfect 10||7b ***||2|
|32||Maiden Voyage||6a+ *||16|
|33||Maiden Voyage II||6c **||8|
|34||Ice Age||6a *||7|
|35||The Black Pearl||7a+||3|
|36||Iron Man||7b **||1|
|37||Captain Barbosa||7b+ **||2|
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|A great convenient and shady crag! Not sure why the stars are missing on some of the lines. Everything we did was excellent; on the list to go back to.|
Dave Warburton - 29/Nov/14