Climbs 37
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 197m a.s.l
Faces N

Richard Davies repeating his own route. © Richard Davies

Crag features

This north-facing crag is an excellent addition to the Calp area crags. It is situated high above the N332, just past the Mascarat tunnels on the approach to Calp. The Castellet de Calp is the remains of a watchtower that served to prevent Berber pirate assaults. These days the walls below it have been developed to give a great set of routes in the mid-to-hard grades. They offer a shady retreat in hot weather, something in short supply in this area. The routes tend to be vertical or gently overhanging on reasonable rock, although there are some loose sections. Several routes have been extended upwards to give superb pitches higher up on the walls.

Approach notes

Castellet de Calp can be approached easily from either Maryvilla, or the big development at Pueblo de Mascarat. From Calp, turn into Maryvilla, then follow signs to Castellet de Calp - right, sharp right then straight on - and park at a left-hand bend with a track heading off to the right. Walk up the track and continue steeply up the hill towards the castellet. Pick up a small path by a pylon and follow this down and around to the face.

The alternative approach from Pueblo de Mascarat involves turning off the N332 and following the road down (parking spot for Mascarat Gorge), then turn left and zig-zag up the hill. Park at a high point where the tarmac road ends. Don't go up the steep concrete road, since parking at the top of this is difficult (and incredibly steep). Walk down to a track from the parking spot and turn left up the hill to join the other approach.


Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)
A great convenient and shady crag! Not sure why the stars are missing on some of the lines. Everything we did was excellent; on the list to go back to.
Dave Warburton - 29/Nov/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Cueva Pequeña 
2Life's a Block6b+ *2
3Hunting Party6b+ *2
4The Razor's Edge7b+ *1
5The Gash6c+ ***3
6Collateral Damage7c ***1
 Main Wall 
9Stalking the Angel7b+ *10
10Shogun7c+ **13
11FHM7a **35
12Destination Lost7a+ **8
13Chasing the Dinosaur7c ***13
14The Reckoning7c *1
15Brain Freeze7a **12
16The Kraken7c+ **2
17Brandelero6c+ **13
18Brando Alto6c ***5
19Sleepyhead7b **15
21The Juggler7a *8
22Poison Ivy7b **12
23Suero7b ***36
24Ant Invasion7a **24
25Congrio7c **5
26Lockdown6c+ *6
27The Long Con7b+ ***3
28Vamos a la Playa7b **1
29Red Bull7c+ *4
30Quicksilver7a **9
31Fast Lane7c+ ***1
32Pilot Error6c+ **9
33Perfect '10'7b ***4
34Maiden Voyage6a+ *22
35Maiden Voyage II6c **9
36Ice Age6a *9
37The Black Pearl7a+ **3
38Iron Man7b **1
39Captain Barbosa7b+ **2

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