Climbs 125
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 567m a.s.l
Faces S

The new kid's parcours on the Via Ferrata at Buis les Baronnies. © Enty

Crag features

Dominating the skyline above Buis-les-Baronnies, Saint Julien is an enormous fin of rock that simply begs to be climbed. The routes are, with a few exceptions, brilliant, often taking strong natural lines in two or more pitches, to reach the ridge. Saint Julien is particularly appealing to climbers operating between 5 and 6b, though there are a number of excellent harder routes that pick their way up to smooth vertical faces.

The cliff is south-facing, and gets plenty of sun. On windy days being on the top of the cliff can feel like you're in the middle of a hurricane, even though the base may be quite sheltered.

Approach notes

The crag is approached from Buis-les Baronnies. At the north end of the town, cross the green bridge over the river and turn left, then take the first right past the campground and swimming pool. Follow the road towards the crag, the north face of which is in plain view. There is a small parking area with a climbing information board on the right-hand side of the road just before a sharp turn. From here, cross the road and follow a trail up towards the crag. Occasionally the trail joins a much larger track, but it soon leads off again on the left. All areas can be accessed by following vague trails at the base of the cliff. Although there are big tracks that also make their way to the base, there is no access right to them, so please stick to the trail.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


France : Haute Provence

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, France: Haute Provence presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Céüse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime’s worth of climbing waiting on its pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Le rocher de saint-julien (2008)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Via Ferrata 
2La PitchouneVF2A **4
3La TestouriassoVF3C 2
4La Roumpo QuieuVF3D  
5La TihoussoVF3C 1
 Secteur du Dinosaur 
7Le Voie des Arêtes
4c 2
10Le Ticket Chic
11La Loi du Talion
12Equation du Monde
6a+ 1
13Le Retour du Talion
14T'en as Jamais vu Autant Raoul
15The Wall6b 2
7a 2
19Le GasteropodeHS  
 Secteur de L'Espadon 
21Eric à Pic4a 9
22Le Petit Cheval4c 12
23La Plante à Scion5c *10
24Trop de Vin Rouge6a *16
25Prise de Tête6a *9
26La Grotte6a ***58
27Love on the Bite6c+ ***4
28L'Espadon5c ***25
29Équinoxe6c **6
30Électrochoc7a ***5
 Secteur du Gastronome 
32La Gastronome5c **33
33La Gastronome du Gris6a *14
34Ça Va Saigner6c *2
35L'Aéroplane Blindé7a ** 
36Le Bandar Fou6c ***5
37Planéité7a+ **1
38Le Salaire de la Peur7b+ ** 
39L'Aéroplane6b **3
40L'Aéroplane Direct6b **5
 Secteur du Pilier Gris 
42Xinibition6a **10
43L'Univers des Rêves6b+ **5
44Tao6a *4
45Y Mao6a *2
46Le Pilier Gris5c ***23
 Secteur des Guêpes 
48Les Initiateurs6a *1
49Les Guêpes (Normale)5a **17
50La Directe des Guêpes6a *3
51Les Trois Mousquetons6b ***4
52La Zaza6b *2
 Secteur du Nez 
54Shanti6a+ * 
55La Madelon6a+ *1
56Hypercubitus6c+ *2
57Le Nez6a **5
58Force Majeure7a *1
 Secteur des Cigales 
60Des Pieds, Des Mains6a **6
61Des Pieds, Des Mains Direct7a 1
62Le Barbarin Fourchu6c+ *2
63Les Dieux Vivants6c+ *1
64Clash6b+ *1
65La Gouttière6a+ *2
66Les Cigales6a+ *2
67Route 666b+ 1
 Secteur des Lames 
69Bibus5c **9
70Ubick7a+ *** 
71Bibus Directe6a+ ***4
72Désir6c+ ***2
73Les Lames6b ***6
74Pandémonium6c ***4
75Tango Funèbre7a+ **2
76Tango Panaché7a **1
77La Directissime6b ***9
 Secteur de la Rampe 
79Éclair d'Absurdité7a+ ** 
80Charter pour l'Enfer7b+ ** 
81La Parat-Paris7a **3
82Tannhäuser6b+ **5
83La Rampe6a+ ***14
84Strings of Life *7a **1
85Osiris6b *3
86Horus6c **1
87Je Suis Charlie *6c+ *1
88La Tournyaire5c ***16
89La Xafred6a+ **1
90La Bouscaude Direct5c **5
91La Bouscaude Normale5c *7
 Secteur de la Mésange 
93La Mésange6c *4
94Urgence d'Vivre5c * 
95Pilier du 7ème ciel6c  
96L'œuf de Pâques6c *1
97Fleur de Rêves6c **1
98Les Dalles6c *2
 Secteur des Trous 
100Les 3 P6a *4
101La Directs du Bastion6a *1
102O l'Oubliée6a *2
103La Voie des Trous5c ***15
 Secteur du Hibou 
105Le Pilier des Trous6a+ ***9
106Via Ferrata3 ***8
107La Cour des Miracles7a * 
108Le Rouge et le Noir7a * 
109Le Hibou6c  
110Alian5c 1
 Secteur du Clocher 
112Anaxagore7b * 
113La Françoise6a+ **5
114L'Éperon de la Croix5c ***5
115Super Phoenix7a *1
116La Directe du Clocher7b **1
117Les Grands Boulevards6b * 
118Nick Jo6b ** 
120Tranquille Coucounet5c *2
121Ramonage Guaranti6a+ * 
122Prends-la Comme Elle Vient6c *** 
123La Momie "Libérée6b ***2
 Secteur du Miroir 
132Rod Grod Med Flode
133If Faut en Sortir
 Secteur du W 
 Secteur du Trou de Canon 
137La Dulf
138Fais ton Choix
139Belle de Nord
140Survol du Trou
142Thieves in the Temple *6c+ ***1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Andy Chubb