Climbs 125
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 567m a.s.l
Faces S

The new kid's parcours on the Via Ferrata at Buis les Baronnies. © Enty

Crag features

Dominating the skyline above Buis-les-Baronnies, Saint Julien is an enormous fin of rock that simply begs to be climbed. The routes are, with a few exceptions, brilliant, often taking strong natural lines in two or more pitches, to reach the ridge. Saint Julien is particularly appealing to climbers operating between 5 and 6b, though there are a number of excellent harder routes that pick their way up to smooth vertical faces.

The cliff is south-facing, and gets plenty of sun. On windy days being on the top of the cliff can feel like you're in the middle of a hurricane, even though the base may be quite sheltered.

Approach notes

The crag is approached from Buis-les Baronnies. At the north end of the town, cross the green bridge over the river and turn left, then take the first right past the campground and swimming pool. Follow the road towards the crag, the north face of which is in plain view. There is a small parking area with a climbing information board on the right-hand side of the road just before a sharp turn. From here, cross the road and follow a trail up towards the crag. Occasionally the trail joins a much larger track, but it soon leads off again on the left. All areas can be accessed by following vague trails at the base of the cliff. Although there are big tracks that also make their way to the base, there is no access right to them, so please stick to the trail.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


France : Haute Provence

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, France: Haute Provence presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Céüse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime’s worth of climbing waiting on its pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Le rocher de saint-julien (2008)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Via Ferrata 
2La PitchouneVF2A **4
3La TestouriassoVF3C 5
4La Roumpo QuieuVF3D 2
5La TihoussoVF3C 3
 Secteur du Dinosaur 
7Le Voie des Arêtes
4c 2
10Le Ticket Chic
11La Loi du Talion
12Equation du Monde
6a+ 1
13Le Retour du Talion
14T'en as Jamais vu Autant Raoul
15The Wall6b 2
7a 2
19Le GasteropodeHS  
 Secteur de L'Espadon 
21Eric à Pic4a 11
22Le Petit Cheval4c 14
23La Plante à Scion5c *12
24Trop de Vin Rouge6a *17
25Prise de Tête6a *9
26La Grotte6a ***62
27Thieves in the Temple6c+ ***2
28Love on the Bite6c+ ***4
29L'Espadon5c ***29
30Équinoxe6c **7
31Électrochoc7a ***5
 Secteur du Gastronome 
33La Gastronome5c **35
34La Gastronome du Gris6a *14
35Ça Va Saigner6c *2
36L'Aéroplane Blindé7a ** 
37Le Bandar Fou6c ***5
38Planéité7a+ **1
39Le Salaire de la Peur7b+ ** 
40L'Aéroplane6b **3
41L'Aéroplane Direct6b **5
 Secteur du Pilier Gris 
43Xinibition6a **10
44L'Univers des Rêves6b+ **5
45Tao6a *4
46Y Mao6a *2
47Le Pilier Gris5c ***25
 Secteur des Guêpes 
49Les Initiateurs6a *1
50Les Guêpes (Normale)5a **17
51La Directe des Guêpes6a *3
52Les Trois Mousquetons6b ***4
53La Zaza6b *2
 Secteur du Nez 
55Shanti6a+ * 
56La Madelon6a+ *1
57Hypercubitus6c+ *2
58Le Nez6a **5
59Force Majeure7a *1
 Secteur des Cigales 
61Des Pieds, Des Mains6a **6
62Des Pieds, Des Mains Direct7a 1
63Le Barbarin Fourchu6c+ *2
64Les Dieux Vivants6c+ *1
65Clash6b+ *1
66La Gouttière6a+ *2
67Les Cigales6a+ *3
68Route 666b+ 2
 Secteur des Lames 
70Bibus5c **11
71Ubick7a+ *** 
72Bibus Directe6a+ ***4
73Désir6c+ ***2
74Les Lames6b ***7
75Pandémonium6c ***4
76Tango Funèbre7a+ **2
77Tango Panaché7a **1
78La Directissime6b ***10
 Secteur de la Rampe 
80Éclair d'Absurdité7a+ ** 
81Charter pour l'Enfer7b+ ** 
82La Parat-Paris7a **3
83Tannhäuser6b+ **5
84La Rampe6a+ ***14
85Strings of Life7a **1
86Osiris6b *3
87Horus6c **1
88Je Suis Charlie6c+ *2
89La Tournyaire5c ***16
90La Xafred6a+ **1
91La Bouscaude Direct5c **6
92La Bouscaude Normale5c *7
 Secteur de la Mésange 
94La Mésange6c *4
95Urgence d'Vivre5c * 
96Pilier du 7ème ciel6c  
97L'œuf de Pâques6c *1
98Fleur de Rêves6c **1
99Les Dalles6c *2
 Secteur des Trous 
101Les 3 P6a *4
102La Directs du Bastion6a *2
103O l'Oubliée6a *2
104La Voie des Trous5c ***18
 Secteur du Hibou 
106Le Pilier des Trous6a+ ***8
107Via Ferrata3 ***8
108La Cour des Miracles7a * 
109Le Rouge et le Noir7a * 
110Le Hibou6c  
111Alian5c 3
 Secteur du Clocher 
113Anaxagore7b * 
114La Françoise6a+ **5
115L'Éperon de la Croix5c ***5
116Super Phoenix7a *1
117La Directe du Clocher7b **1
118Les Grands Boulevards6b * 
119Nick Jo6b ** 
121Tranquille Coucounet5c *2
122Ramonage Guaranti6a+ * 
123Prends-la Comme Elle Vient6c *** 
124La Momie "Libérée6b ***2
6b 1
6a+ 1
 Secteur du Miroir 
133Rod Grod Med Flode
134If Faut en Sortir
 Secteur du W 
 Secteur du Trou de Canon 
138La Dulf
139Fais ton Choix
140Belle de Nord
141Survol du Trou

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