Climbs 122
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 567m a.s.l
Faces S

The new kid's parcours on the Via Ferrata at Buis les Baronnies. © Enty

Crag features

Dominating the skyline above Buis-les-Baronnies, Saint Julien is an enormous fin of rock that simply begs to be climbed. The routes are, with a few exceptions, brilliant, often taking strong natural lines in two or more pitches, to reach the ridge. Saint Julien is particularly appealing to climbers operating between 5 and 6b, though there are a number of excellent harder routes that pick their way up to smooth vertical faces.

The cliff is south-facing, and gets plenty of sun. On windy days being on the top of the cliff can feel like you're in the middle of a hurricane, even though the base may be quite sheltered.

Approach notes

The crag is approached from Buis-les Baronnies. At the north end of the town, cross the green bridge over the river and turn left, then take the first right past the campground and swimming pool. Follow the road towards the crag, the north face of which is in plain view. There is a small parking area with a climbing information board on the right-hand side of the road just before a sharp turn. From here, cross the road and follow a trail up towards the crag. Occasionally the trail joins a much larger track, but it soon leads off again on the left. All areas can be accessed by following vague trails at the base of the cliff. Although there are big tracks that also make their way to the base, there is no access right to them, so please stick to the trail.

Guidebooks

France : Haute Provence

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, France: Haute Provence presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Céüse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime’s worth of climbing waiting on its pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Le rocher de saint-julien (2008)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Via Ferrata 
2La PitchouneVF2A **4
3La TestouriassoVF3C 2
4La Roumpo QuieuVF3D  
5La TihoussoVF3C 1
 Secteur du Dinosaur 
7Le Voie des Arêtes
-
4c 2
8Yoyo
-
4c  
9Planetoide
-
7a  
10Le Ticket Chic
-
6b  
11La Loi du Talion
-
6a+  
12Equation du Monde
-
6a+  
13Le Retour du Talion
-
6a  
14T'en as Jamais vu Autant Raoul
-
6b  
15The Wall6b 2
16Mercurobrobe
-
7a 2
17Plastie
-
6b+  
18Unamed
-
6a+  
19Le GasteropodeHS  
 Secteur de L'Espadon 
21Eric à Pic4a 9
22Le Petit Cheval4c 10
23La Plante à Scion5c *8
24Trop de Vin Rouge6a *14
25Prise de Tête6a *7
26La Grotte6a ***55
27Love on the Bite6c+ ***3
28L'Espadon5c ***25
29Équinoxe6c **4
30Électrochoc7a ***4
 Secteur du Gastronome 
32La Gastronome5c **31
33La Gastronome du Gris6a *14
34Ça Va Saigner6c *2
35L'Aéroplane Blindé7a ** 
36Le Bandar Fou6c ***5
37Planéité7a+ **1
38Le Salaire de la Peur7b+ ** 
39L'Aéroplane6b **3
40L'Aéroplane Direct6b **5
 Secteur du Pilier Gris 
42Xinibition6a **9
43L'Univers des Rêves6b+ **5
44Tao6a *4
45Y Mao6a *1
46Le Pilier Gris5c ***22
 Secteur des Guêpes 
48Les Initiateurs6a * 
49Les Guêpes (Normale)5a **17
50La Directe des Guêpes6a *2
51Les Trois Mousquetons6b ***3
52La Zaza6b *2
 Secteur du Nez 
54Shanti6a+ * 
55La Madelon6a+ *1
56Hypercubitus6c+ *2
57Le Nez6a **4
58Force Majeure7a *1
 Secteur des Cigales 
60Des Pieds, Des Mains6a **6
61Des Pieds, Des Mains Direct7a  
62Le Barbarin Fourchu6c+ *2
63Les Dieux Vivants6c+ *1
64Clash6b+ * 
65La Gouttière6a+ *1
66Les Cigales6a+ *1
67Route 666b+ 1
 Secteur des Lames 
69Bibus5c **9
70Ubick7a+ *** 
71Bibus Directe6a+ ***4
72Désir6c+ ***2
73Les Lames6b ***6
74Pandémonium6c ***4
75Tango Funèbre7a+ **2
76Tango Panaché7a **1
77La Directissime6b ***9
 Secteur de la Rampe 
79Éclair d'Absurdité7a+ ** 
80Charter pour l'Enfer7b+ ** 
81La Parat-Paris7a **3
82Tannhäuser6b+ **5
83La Rampe6a+ ***14
84Osiris6b *2
85Horus6c **1
86La Tournyaire5c ***15
87La Xafred6a+ **1
88La Bouscaude Direct5c **5
89La Bouscaude Normale5c *7
 Secteur de la Mésange 
91La Mésange6c *4
92Urgence d'Vivre5c * 
93Pilier du 7ème ciel6c  
94L'œuf de Pâques6c *1
95Fleur de Rêves6c **1
96Les Dalles6c *2
 Secteur des Trous 
98Les 3 P6a *4
99La Directs du Bastion6a *1
100O l'Oubliée6a *2
101La Voie des Trous5c ***15
 Secteur du Hibou 
103Le Pilier des Trous6a+ ***7
104Via Ferrata3 ***8
105La Cour des Miracles7a * 
106Le Rouge et le Noir7a * 
107Le Hibou6c  
108Alian5c 1
 Secteur du Clocher 
110Anaxagore7b * 
111La Françoise6a+ **4
112L'Éperon de la Croix5c ***5
113Super Phoenix7a *1
114La Directe du Clocher7b **1
115Les Grands Boulevards6b * 
116Nick Jo6b ** 
117NEW
-
6c  
118Tranquille Coucounet5c *2
119Ramonage Guaranti6a+ * 
120Prends-la Comme Elle Vient6c *** 
121La Momie "Libérée6b ***2
122Globe
-
7a  
123Harlem
-
6c+  
124Trotters
-
6c+  
125Phenomenologue
-
6b  
126Bleauserie
-
6b+  
127Couennerie
-
6c  
128Metro-Metako
-
6a+  
 Secteur du Miroir 
130Rod Grod Med Flode
-
6b  
131If Faut en Sortir
-
6b  
132Slide
-
6  
 Secteur du W 
 Secteur du Trou de Canon 
135La Dulf
-
6b+  
136Fais ton Choix
-
6b  
137Belle de Nord
-
6b  
138Survol du Trou
-
5c  
139O.J.M
-
5a  

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